LIBRARY OF CONGRESS. 



biieJi.i>:.^.^-g 



UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. 



UTHORS. 



rX WORMELEY. 



Cousin Bette. 
Eugenie Grandet. 
The Magic Skin. 
Bureaucracy. 
Fame and Sorrow. 
The Country Doctor. 



ambert. 

iPons. 

o Brothers. ' 
.:ahest. 
Modeste Mignon. 
Seraphita. 
Ursula. 

Sons of the Soil. 
The Lily of the Valley. 
An Historical Mystery. 



Nineteen handsome i2mo volumes. Uniform in size and style. 
Half Russia, price, $1.50 each. 

A Memoir of Honore de Balzac. 

Compiled and written by Katharine Prescott Wormeley, trans- 
lator of Balzac's Works. With Portrait taken one hour after 
death by Eugene Giraud. i2mo, half Russia, price, $1.50. 

GEORGE MEREDITH. 



The Ordeal of Richard Vittoria. 

Feverel. Rhoda Fleming. 

Evan Harrington. The Shaving of Shagpat 
Diana of the Crossways. and !^arina. 

Harry Richmond. Beauchamp's Career. 

Sandra Belloni. One of our Conquerors. 

The Egoist. The Tragic Comedians. 

Popular Edition. Twelve volumes, i6mo, cloth, price, $1.50 each; 
crown 8vo edition, $2.00 ; half calf, extra, $27.50 per set. 

Mailed, posfttxr paid, on receipt of price by the Publishers^ 

ROBERTS BROTHERS, Boston. 



ST. DENIS HOTEL, 

^ BROADWAY AND ELEVENTH ST. 

Opposite Grace Church, NEW YORK. 

The most centrally located hotel in 
the city, conducted on the European 
plan, at moderate prices. Recently 
enlarged by a new and handsome ad- 
dition that doubles its former capacity. 
The. new Dining Room is one of the 
finest specimens of Colonial Decoration 
in this country. 

WILLIAM TAYLOR. 

Better go to Halifax. 

It is the most direct wa}' to reach all points in Nova Scotia, Cape 
Breton, Prince Edward Island, and Newfoundland. Besides, you will 
be ONLY ONE NIGHT AT SEA, and can travel by the safest, 
most comfortable, and speediest steamer sailing out of Boston for 
those points, being the well-known and popular 

CANADA ATLANTIC LINE STEAMER 

"HALIFAX." 

Nova Scotia and Cape Breton have become the ideal Summer 
Resorts, and thousands are flocking thither. Sailings are made from 
the Savannah Pier, North side of Lewis Wharf, Boston, every 
SATURDAY, AT NOON. For more frequent sailings during 
the Summer see dailv papers. 

Tickets may be obtained of A. DeW. SAMPSON, 306 Washing- 
ton St., and of the Agents, 

RICHARDSON & BARNARD, 

20 Atlantic Ave., Boston. 




Unlike the Dutch Process 

No Alkalies 



-OR- 



Other Chemicals 

are used in the 
preparation of 

W. Baker & Co.'s 
Breakfast Cocoa 

which is absolutely pure and soluble. 

It has more than three times the strength of Cocoa mixed 
with starch, arrowroot, or sugar, and is far more economical, 

COSTING LESS THAN ONE GENT A GUP. 

It is dehcious, nourishing, and 

EASILY DIGESTED. 

The use of chemicals in cocoa made by the Dutch process 
can be readily detected by the peculiar odor from newly opened 
packages, and also from a glass of water in which a small 
quantity of chemically treated cocoa has been placed and 
allowed to remain for several days. 

For more than One Hundred Years the 
house of Walter Baker & Co. have made 
their Cocoa Preparations Absolutely 
Pure, using NO Patent Process, Alka- 
lies, or Dyes. 



W. BAKER & CO., Dorchester, Mass. 



THE 



MARITIME PROVINCES: 



HANDBOOK FOR TRAVELLERS. 



^^^.v.^. _ 'iV^ /-H^^; 



A GUIDE TO , / X: 



THE CHIEF CITIES, COASTS, AND ISLANDS OF THE MARITIME PROV- 
INCES OF CANADA, AND TO THEIR SCENERY AND HISTORIC! 
ATTRACTIONS ; WITH THE GULF AND RIVER OF ST. 
LAWRENCE TO QUEBEC AND MONTREAL; 
ALSO, NEWFOUNDLAND AND THE 
LABRADOR COAST. 



With Four Maps and Four Flans, 

HmiH EDiTlON, REVISED AND ENLARGED. 



The time-taUes of the Provincial steamers are liable to change. Intend- 
ing tourists should twite to the agents of the International, Yarmouth, and 
Prince-Edward Island lines, at Boston, for their latest folders, showing 
times of sailing, excursion-rates, etc. 



BOSTON AND NEW YORK? ^ 33 S" A 
HOUGHTON, MIFFLIN AND COMPANY. 

1892. 



OOP-^BIGHT 1875 AND 1883, 

By JAMES K. OSGOOD & CO, 

1885 AKD 1888, 
Bv TICKNOR & CO. 

1891 AND 1892, 
By HOUGHTON, MIFFLIN & CO. 



f\ 






V 



New Bi'uiiswick, Nova Scotia, and Prince Edvvavd Island. Foi' 8weetser's Maritime Pi'ovinces Guide J^ook. 



31 32 33 34 35 36 37 «o°38 39 40 41 




Digitized by tine Internet Archive 
in 2010 witii funding from 
Tine Library of Congress 



Iittp://www.arcliive.org/details/maritimeprovince01swee 



CONTENTS. 



PAGE 

I. Plan of Tour 1 

II. Newfoundland and Labrador 2 

III. Money and Travelling Expenses . .4 

IV. Railways and Steamboats 4 

V. Round-Trip Excursions . . . . . ' . . ' . . .5 

VI. Hotels 7 

VII. Language 7 

VIII. Climate and Dress 8 

IX. Fishing ' 8 

Z. Miscellaneous Notes . 9 

NEW BRUNSWICK. 
route 

General Notes . . . . 13 

1. St. John 15 

2. The Environs of St. John .22 

1. Lily Lake. Marsli Road 22 

2. Mispeck Road. Suspension Bridge .23 

3. Carleton .24 

3. St. John to Eastport and St. Stephen. Passamaquoddy Bay . 25 

4. Grand Manan 28 

78. Campobello ............ 30a 

5. St. John to St. Andrews and St. Stephen. Passamaquoddy Bay 30 

1. St. George. Lalie Utopia 32 

2. St. Andrews. Chamcook Mountain 33 

3. St. Stephen. Schoodic Lakes 35 

6. St. Andrews and St. Stephen to Woodstock and Houlton . 36 

7. St. John to Bangor 37 

8. St. John to Fredericton. The St. John River .... 39 

1. Kennebecasis Bay .40 

2. Belleisle Bay 42 

3. Fredericton . . . .44 

4. Fredericton to Miramichi 46 

9. Washademoak Lake . . . .47 

10. Grand Lake . . ■ 48 

11. Fredericton to Woodstock 49 

12. Fredericton to Woodstock, by the St. John River ... 51 

13. Woodstock to Grand Falls and Riviere du Loup . . . .53 



CONTENTS. 



ROUTE PAGE 

1. Tobiqne to Bathurst 54 

2. The St. John to the Restigouche . • . . . . .56 

3. The Madawaska District ........ 57 

4. The Maine Woods. Temiscouata Lake 58 

14. St. John to Shediac 59 

15. The Bay of Chaleur and the North Shore of New Brunswick 60 

1. Chatham to Shippigan 61 

2. Shippigan. Bay of Chaleur 64 

3. Bathurst to Caraquette 66 

4. Campbellton to St. Flavie 69 

16. St. John to Amherst and Halifax ...... 70 

1. Quaco. Sussex Vale 71 

2. Albert County. Moncton to Quebec 72 

3. Dorchester. SackviUe » . . 73 



NOVA SCOTIA. 

General Notes 75 

17. St. John to Amherst and Halifax 78 

1. Tantramar Marsh. Chignecto Peninsula 79 

2. North Shore of Nova Scotia ........ 81 

18. St. John to Halifax, by the Annapolis Valley ... 83 

1. Annapolis Royal 85 

2. The Annapolis Valley 88 

3. Kentville to Chester , 90 

19. Halifax 93 

20. The Environs of Halifax . 100 

1. Bedford Basin. Point Pleasant 100 

21. The Basin of Minas. Halifax to St. John 101 

1. Advocate Harbor and Cape d'Or 103 

2. The Basin of Minas 104 

22. The Land of Evangeline . . , 107 

23. Annapolis Royal to Clare and Yarmouth 112 

1. The Clare Settlements 113 

2. The Tusket Lakes and Archipelago 115 

24. DiGBY Neck 116 

25. Halifax to Yarmouth. The Atlantic Coast of Nova Scotia . 117 

1. Cape Sambro. Lunenburg . 118 

2. Liverpool 120 

3. Shelburne 121 

4. Cape Sable 123 

26. Halifax to Yarmouth, by the Shore Route . . . . 126 

1. Chester. Mahone Bay 127 

2. Chester to Liverpool 128 

27. The Liverpool Lakes 129 

28. Halifax to Tangier 131 

29. The Northeast Coast of Nova Scotia. 133 

80. Sable Island 134 



CONTENTS. vii 

route page 

31. St. John and Halifax to Pictou 136 

32. St. John and Halifax to the Strait of Canso and Cape Breton 138 

CAPE BRETON. 

General Notes 141 

33. The Strait of Canso 142 

34. Arichat and Isle Madame 145 

35. The Strait of Canso to Sydney, Cape Breton .... 146 

36. Halifax to Sydney, Cape Breton 148 

37. The East Coast of Cape Breton, The Sydney Coal-Fields . 152 

38. The Fortress of Louisbourg 154 

39. The North Shore of Cape Breton '158 

1. St. Anne's Bay 158 

2. St. Paul's Island 160 

40. The Bras d'Or Lakes .161 

1. Baddeck 162 

2. Great Bras d'Or Lake 164 

3. The Bras d'Or to Halifax 166 

41. Baddeck to Mabou and Port Hood 167 

1. St. Patrick's Channel. Whycocomagh 167 

42. The West Coast of Cape Breton . . . . . . . 168 

1. Port Hood. Mabou 169 

2. Margaree. The Lord's Day Gale . . • ^ • • • . 170 

PRINCE EDWARD ISLAND. 

General Notes 172 

43. Shediac to Summerside and Charlottetown .... 174 

1. The Northumberland Strait 174 

44. Pictou to Prince Edward Island 175 

45. Charlottetown 175 

1. Environs of Charlottetown 177 

46. Charlottetown to Summerside and Tignish. The Western 

Shores of Prince Edward Island 177 

1. Rustico. Summerside 178 

47. Charlottetown to Georgetown 180 

48. Charlottetown to Sour is 182 

49. The Magdalen Islands 183 

50. St. Pierre and Miquelon 185 

NEWFOUNDLAND. 

General Notes 187 

51. Halifax to St. John's, Newfoundland 188 

52. St. John's, Newfoundland 189 

53. The Environs of St. John's 195 

1. Portugal Cove. Logie Bay. Torbay 195 

54. The Strait Shore of Avalon. St. John's to Cape Race . 196 



viii CONTENTS. 

ROUTE PAGE 

1. The Grand Banks of Newfoundland 199 

55. St. John's to Labrador. The Northern Coast of Newfoundland 200 

1. Bonavista Bay 203 

2. Twillingate. Exploits Island 205 

56. St. John's to Conception Bay ........ 206 

57. Trinity Bay 208 

58. The Bay of Notre Dame 210 

59. Placentia Bay 212 

60. The Western Outports. St. John's to Cape Ray . . . .213 

1. Fortune Bay 214 

2. Hermitage Bay . ... 215 

61. The French Shore. Cape Ray to Cape St. John , . . 216 

1. The Interior of Newfoundland 218 

2. The Strait of Belle Isle 220 

LABRADOR. 

General Notes 228 

62. The Atlantic Coast, to the Moravian Missions and Greenland 224 

1. The Moravian Missions 226 

63. The Labrador Coast of the Strait of Belle Isle . . . 227 

64. The Labrador Coast of the Gulf of St. Lawrence . . . 229 

1. The Mingan Islands 231 

2. The Seven Islands 232 

65. Anticosti . 234 

PROVINCE OP QUEBEC. 

General Notes 235 

66. PiCTOU TO Quebec. The Coasts of Gaspe 238 

1. Paspebiac 240 

2. Perce 242 

3. Gaspe 244 

67. The Lower St. Lawrence 246 

1. Father Point. Rimouski 250 

2. Bic. Trois Pistoles .251 

3. St. Anne de la Pocatiere. L'Islet 253 

68. Quebec 255 

1. Durham Terrace 259 

2. Jesuits' College. Basilica * . . 261 

3. Seminary 262 

4. Laval University. Parliament Building 263 

5. Hotel Dieu. Around the Ramparts 266 

6. The Lower Town 271 

69. The Environs of Quebec 276 

1. Beauport. Montmorenci Palls 276 

2. Indian Lorette 278 

8. Chateau Bigot. Sillery 280 

4. Point Levi, Chaudifere Falls . . 282 



PREFACE. 



The chief object of the Handbook to the Maritime Provinces 
is to supply the place of a guide in a land where professional 
guides cannot be found, and to assist the traveller in gaining 
the greatest possible amount of pleasure and information while 
passing through the most interesting portions of Eastern British 
America. The St. Lawrence Provinces have been hitherto casu- 
ally treated in books which cover wider sections of country (the 
best of which have long been out of print), and the Atlantic 
Provinces have as yet received but little attention of this kind. 
The present guide-book is the first which has been devoted to 
their treatment in a combined form and according to the most 
approved principles of the European works of similar purpose 
and character. It also includes descriptions of the remote and 
interesting coasts of Newfoundland and Labrador, which have 
never before been mentioned in works of this character. The 
Handbook is designed to enable travellers to visit any or all 
of the notable places in the Maritime Provinces, with economy 
of money, time, and temper, by giving lists of the hotels with 
their prices, descriptions of the various routes by land and water, 
and maps and plans of the principal cities. The letter-press 
contains epitomes of the histories of the cities and the ancient 
settlements along the coast, statements of the principal scenic 
attractions, descriptions of the art and architecture of the cities, 
and statistics of the chief industries of the included Provinces. 
The brilliant and picturesq^ue records and traditions of the early 
French and Scottish colonies, and the heroic exploits of the 
Jesuit missionaries, have received special attention in connection 
with the localities made famous in those remote days ; and the 
remarkable legends and mythology of the Micmac Indians are 



iv PREFACE. 

incorporated with the accounts of the places made classic by 
them. The naval and military operations of the wars which 
centred on Port Royal, Louisbourg, and Quebec have been con- 
densed from the best authorities, and the mournful events which 
are commemorated in " Evangeline " are herein analyzed and 
recorded. The noble coast-scenery and the favorite summer- 
voyages with which the northern seas abound have been de- 
scribed at length in these pages. 

The plan and structure of the book, its system of treatment 
and forms of abbreviation, have been derived from the European 
Handbooks of Karl Baedeker. The typography, binding, and 
system of city plans also resemble those of Baedeker, and hence 
the grand desiderata of compactness and portability, which have 
made his works the most popular in Europe, have also been 
attained in the present volume. Nearly all the facts concerning 
the routes, hotels, and scenic attractions have been framed or 
verified from the Editor's personal experience, after many 
months of almost incessant travelling for this express purpose. 
But infallibility is impossible in a woi^k of this nature, especial- 
ly amid the rapid changes which are ever going on in America, 
and hence the Editor would be grateful for any bona fide cor- 
rections or suggestions with which either travellers or residents 
may favor him. 

The maps and plans of cities have been prepared with the 
greatest care, and will doubtless prove of material service to all 
who may trust to their directions. They are based on the system 
of lettered and numbered squares, with figures corresponding to 
similar figures, attached to lists of the chief public buildings, 
hotels, churches, and notable objects. The hotels indicated by 
asterisks are those which are believed by the Editor to be the 
most comfortable and elegant. 

M. F. SWEETSER, 
Care of Houghton, Miffiin Sf Co. 
4 Park St., Boston. 



CONTENTS. 



IX 



ROXJTE 

70. Quebec to La Bonne Ste. Anne .... 

1. The Falls of St. Anne 

71. The Isle of Orleans 

72. Quebec to Cacouna and the Saguenay River 

1. St. Paul's Bay 

2. Jlurray Bay 

3. Cacouna 

73. The Saguenay River 

1. Tadousac 

2. Chicoutimi 

3. Ha Ha Bay. Lake St. John .... 

4. Eternity Bay. Cape Trinity .... 

74. Quebec to Montreal. The St. Lawrence River 

75. Montreal 

1. Victoria Square. Notre Dame 

2. The Gesi\. St. Patrick's Church 

3. Cathedral. McGill University. Great Seminary 

4. Hotel Dieu. Mount Royal. Victoria Bridge . 
The Environs of Montreal 

1. Around the Mountain. Sault au Recollet . 

2. Lachine Rapids. Caughnawaga 

3. Belreil Mt. St. Anne 



76. 



Index to Localities 

Index to Historical and Biographical Allusions 

Index to Quotations 

Index to Railways and Steamboats . 



List of Authorities Consulted 



page 

. 283 
286 



296 
297 
299 
300 
301 
303 
305 
309 
311 
313 
314 
316 
318 
318 
319 
320 

321 
332 
333 
334 

334 



MAPS. 

1. Map of the Maritime Provinces. 

2. Map of the Acadian Land : between pages 106 and 107. 

3. Map of the Saguenay River : opposite page 297. 

4. Map of the Lower St. Lawrence River : opposite page 297. 



PLANS OP CITIES. 

1. St. John : between pages 14 and 15. 

2. Halifax : between pages 92 and 93. 

3. Quebec : between pages 254 and 255. 

4. MoNTEEAL : between pages 808 and 309. 



ABBREVIATIONS. 



N. — North, Northern, etc. 
S. — South, etc. 
E. — East, etc. 
W. — West, etc. 
N. B. — New Brunswick. 
N. S. — Nova Scotia. 
N. F. — Newfoundland. 
Lab. — Labrador. 



P. E. I. — Prince Edward Island. 

P. Q. — Province of Quebec. 

M. — mile or miles. 

r. — right. 

1.— left. 

ft. — foot or feet. 

hr. — hour. 

min. — minute or minutes. 



Asterisks denote objects deserving of special attention. 



THE MARITIME PROVINCES. 



INTRODUCTION. 



I. Plan of Tour. 

The most profitable course for a tourist in the Lower Provinces is to 
keep moving, and his route should be made to include as many as pos- 
sible of the points of interest Avhich are easily accessible. There are but 
few places in this region where the local attractions are of sufficient inter- 
est to justify a prolonged visit, or where the accommodations for stran- 
gers are adapted to make sach a sojourn pleasant. The historic and 
scenic beauties are not concentrated on a few points, but extend through- 
out the country, aflfording rare opportunities for journeys whose general 
course may be replete with interest. The peculiar charms of the Mari- 
time Provinces are their history during the Acadian era and their noble 
coast scenery, — the former containing some of tlie most romantic episodes 
in the annals of America, and tlie latter exhibiting a marvellous blending 
of mountainous capes and picturesque islands with the blue northern sea. 
And these two traits are intertwined througliout, for there is scarce a 
promontory that has not ruins or legends of French fortresses, scarce a 
bay that has not heard the roaring broadsides of British frigates. 

The remarkable ethnological phenomena here presented are also cal- 
culated to awaken interest even in the lightest minds. The American tour- 
ist, accustomed to the homogeneousness of the cities and rural communi- 
ties of the Republic, may here see extensive districts inhabited by French- 
men or by Scottish Highlanders, preserving their national languages, cus- 
toms, and amusements unaffected by the presence and pressure of British 
influence and power. Of such are the districts of Clare and Madawaska 
and the entire island of Cape Breton, 

All these phases of provincial life and history afford subjects for study 
or amusement to the traveller, and may serve to make a summer voyage 
both interesting and profitable. 

Travelling has been greatly facilitated, within a few years, by the es- 
tablishment of railways and steamship routes throughout the Provinces. 
From the analyses of these lines, given in the following pages, the tourist 

1 A 



2 INTRODUCTION. 

will be able to compute the cost of his trip, both in money and in time. 
The following tour would include a glimpse at the chief attractions of the 
country,, and will serve to convey an idea of the time requisite : — 
Boston to St. John ....... 1^ days. 

St. John 1 " 

St. John to Annapolis and Halifax . . . . 2 '* 

Halifax 1 " 

Halifax to Sydney 14 " 

The Bras d'Or Lakes 1 " 

Port Hawkesbury to Pictou, Charlottetown, and Shediac 2 " 
Shediac to Quebec (by steamer) , . . . . 4 " 

Quebec 3 " 

Quebec to Boston 1 " 

Failures to connect 3 " 

21 days. 

To this circular tour several side-trips may be added, at the discretion 
of the traveller. The most desirable among these are the routes to Pas- 
samaquoddy Bay, the St. John Ptiver, the Basin of Minas (to Parrsboro'), 
from Halifax to Chester and Mahone Bay, Whycocomagh, or Louisbourg 
(in Cape Breton), and the Saguenay River. It may be advisable to go to 
Quebec by the Intercolonial Railway, taking a night and a day. 

If the tourist wishes to sojourn for several days or weeks in one place, 
the most eligible points for such a visit, outside of St. John and Halifax, 
are Fredericton, St. Andrews, Grand Manan, Grand Fall?, or Dalhousie, 
in New Brunswick; Annapolis, Wolfville, Parrsboro', or Chester, in Nova 
Scotia; Baddeck, in Cape Breton; and Charlottetown, in Prince Edward 
Island. At each of these villages are small but comfortable inns, and the 
surrounding scenery is attractive. 

11. Newfoundland and Labrador. 

Extended descriptions of these remote northern coasts have been given 
in the following pages for the use of the increasing number of travellers 
who yearly pass thitherward. The marine scenery of Newfoundland is 
the grandest on the North Atlantic coast, and here are all the varied phe- 
nomena of the northern seas, — icebergs, the aurora borealis, the herds of 
seals, the desolate and lofty shores, and the vast fishing-fleets from wliich 
France and the United States draw their best seamen. English and 
American yachtsmen grow more familiar every year with these coasts, 
and it is becoming more common for gentlemen of our Eastern cities 
to embark on fishing-schooners and make the voyage to Labrador or the 
Banks. 

The tourist can also reach the remotest settlements on the Labrador 



INTRODUCTION. 3 

coast by the steamship Hues from Halifax to St. John's, N. F., and thence 
to Battle Harbor. This route takes a long period of time, though the 
expense is comparatively light ; and the accommodations on the steam- 
ships beyond St. John's are quite inferior. A shorter circular tour may 
be made by taking the steamer from Halifax to St. John's, and at St. 
John's embarking on the Western Outports steamship, whicli coasts along 
the entire S. shore of the island, and runs down to Sydney, C. B., 
once a month. From Sydney the tourist can return to Halifax (or St. 
John, N. B.) by way of the Bras d'Or Lakes. The Western Outports 
steamship also visits the quaint French colony at St. Pierre and Miquelon 
fortnightly, and the traveller can stop off there and return directly to 
Halifax by the Anglo-French steamship, which leaves St. Pierre fort- 
nightly. 

Sea-Sichiess. The chief benefit to be derived on these routes is the 
invigoratiou of the bracing air of the northern sea. Persons who are 
liable to sea-sickness should avoid the Newfoundland trip, since rough 
weather is frequently experienced there, and the stewards are neither as 
numerous nor as dexterous as those on the transatlantic steamships. The 
Editor is tempted to insert here a bit of personal experience, showing 
how the results of early experiences, combined with the advice of veteran 
travellers, have furnished him with a code of rules which are useful against 
the mal clu mer in all its forms. During 28 days on the Mediterranean 
Sea and 45 days on the Canadian waters, the observance of these simple 
rules prevented sickness, although every condition of weather was expe- 
rienced, from the fierce simoom of the Lybian Desert to the icy gales of 
Labrador. The chief rule, to whicli the others are but corollaries, is, 
Don't think of your physical self. Any one in perfect health, who will 
busy himself for an hour in thinking about the manner in which his 
breath is inhaled, or in which his eyes perform their functions, will soon 
feel ill at ease in his lungs or eyes, and can only regain tranquillity by 
banishing the disturbing thoughts. Avoid, therefore, this gloomy and 
apprehensive self-contemplation, and fill the mind with bright and en- 
grossing themes, — the conversation of merry companions, the exciting 
vicissitudes of card-playing, or the marvellous deeds of some hero of ro- 
mance. Never think of your throat and stomach, nor think of thinking 
or not thinking of them, but forget that such conveniences exist. Keep 
on deck as much as possible, warmly Avrapped up, and inhaling the salty 
air of the sea. Don't stay in the lee of the fuimel, where the smell of oil 
is nauseating. And if you are still ill at ease, lie down in your state- 
room, with the port-hole slightly opened, and go to sleep. The tourist 
should purchase, before leaving Halifax, two or three lively novels, a flask 
of fine brandy, a bottle of pickled limes, and a dozen lemons. 



INTRODUCTION. 



» III. Money and Travelling Expenses. 

Dominion currency passes freely everywhere in Canada, also the bills of 
all the prominent banks of the upper and lower Provinces. 

United-States silver is accepted only in small sums, and then at a dis- 
count. 

United-States bills are accepted, but there has lately been some movement 
against taking them at par, as used to be the custom. 



IV. Kailways and Steamboats. 

The new-born railway system of the Maritime Provinces is being ex- 
tended rapidly on all sides, by the energy of private corporations and 
the liberality of the Canadian Government. The lines are generally well 
and securely constructed, on English principles of solidity, and are not 
yet burdened by such a pressure of traffic as to render travelling in any 
way dangerous. The cars are built on the American plan, and are suf- 
ficientl}^ comfortable. On all trains there are accommodations for smo- 
kers. Pullman cars were introduced on the Intercolonial Railway in 1874, 
and are regularly run there, and also on the Canadian Paoilic (formerly 
the New-Brunswick Railway). There are restaurants at convenient dis- 
tances on the lines, where the trains stop long- enough for i)aesengers to 
take their meals. The naiTow-gauge cars on the Prince Edward Island 
Railway will attract the attention of travellers, on account of their singular 
construction. The tourist has choice of three grades of accommodation 



INTRODUCTION. 5 

on the chief raihrays, — Pullman car, first-class, and second-class. The 
latter mode of travelling is very uncomfortable. 

Good accommodations are given on the vessels which ply between Bos- 
ton and St. John and to Halifax and Prince Edward Island. The cabins 
of the Quebec steamships are elegantly fitted up, and are airy and spacious. 
The Annapolis, Minas, Prince Edward Island, and Newfoundland lines 
have comfortable accommodations, and the Yarmouth and North Shore ves- 
sels are also fairly equipped. The lines to the Magdalen Islands, St. Pierre, 
and along the Newfoundland and Labrador coasts are primarily intended 
for the transportation of freight, and for successful!}' encountering rough 
weather and heavy seas, and have small cabins and plain fare. The Sa- 
guenay steamers resemble the better class of American river-boats, and 
have fine accommodations. 

The Mail-Stages. — The remoter districts of the Provinces are visited 
by lines of stages. The tourist will naturally be deceived by the grandil- 
oquent titles of ''Royal Mail Stage," or "Her Majesty's Mail Route," 
and suppose that some reflected stateliness will invest the vehicles that 
bear such august names. In point of fact, and with but two or three 
exceptions, the Provincial stages are far from corresponding to such ex- 
pectations ; being, in rnost cases, the rudest and plainest carriages, some- 
times drawn by but one horse, and usually unprovided with covers. The 
fares, however, are very low, for this class of transportation, and a good 
rate of speed is usually kept up. 



6 INTRODUCTION. 

V. Eound-Trip Excursions. 

During the summer and early autumn the railway p.nd steamship com- 
panies publish lists of excursions at greatly reduced prices. Information 
and lists of these routes may be obtained of the General Passenger Agent 
of the Boston & Maine R. R., Boston; the International Steamship Co., 
Boston; the Yarmouth Steamship Co., Boston; and the Boston, Halifax, 
and Prince-Edward Island Steamship Co., Boston. 

Travellers who prefer to go by railway, across the State of Maine, can 
send for the summer-excursion book of the Boston & Maine Railroad, or of 
the Maine Central Railroad. (Address the latter at Portland, Maine.) 
Small books are issued every spring by these companies, each giving sev- 
eral hundred combinations of routes, with their prices. They maj' be ob- 
tained on application, in person or by letter, at the above-mentioned oflfices. 
The excursion tickets are good during the season, and have all the privi- 
leges of first-class tickets. The following tours will serve to convey an 
idea of the pecuniary expense incurred in a trip from Boston through the 
best sections of the Maritime Provinces. 

INTERNATIONAL STEAMSHIP CO. 

Halifax Eound Trip jExcursion. --Boston to St. John by International 
Steamship Co.'s Steamers ; St. John to Annapolis by Bay of Fundy Steamers ; 
Aonapolis to Halifax by W. & A. Railway ; Halifax to St. John by Intercolonial 
Railway ; St. John to Boston by International Steamship Co.'s Steamers Fare, f 18. 

Three Provinces Excursloyi.— Boston to St. John by International Steam- 
ship Co.'s Steamers ; St. John to Annapolis by Bay of Fundy Steamers ; Annapolis 
to Halifax by W. & A. Railway ; Halifax to Pictou by Intercolonial Railway : Pic- 
tou to Charlottetown by P. E. I. Steamers ; Charlottetown to Summerside by 
P. E. I. Railway ; Summerside to Shediac by P. E. I. Steamers ; Shediac to St. 
John by Intercolonial Railway ; St. John to Boston by International Steamship 
Co.'s Steamers. Fare, § 22. 

JEasfport Excursion. — Boston to Eastport, and return, by International Steam- 
ship Co.'s Steamer. Fare, iS 7.50. 

St. John Excursion. — Boston to Eastport, and St. John, and return, by Inter- 
national Steamship Co.'s Steamer. Fare, .$ 8.50. 

The other companies have groups of excursions of equal variety and in- 
terest, and will be glad to send their books to applicants. 

The route-book of the Boston & Maine Raih-oad may be obtained by 
sending to the Genenil Passenger Agent, D. J. Flanders, Boston, cr apply- 
ing at the passenger ticket-office, Washington Street. 



INTRODUCTION. 



VI. Hotels. 

The hotels of the Maritime Provinces are far behind the age, and 
thereby the pleasure of a journey in this beautiful region is greatly 
lessened for the s^^baritic Americans. The general rates at the better ho- 
tels of the second-class is $ 2 a day; and tlie village inns and country tav- 
erns charge from $ 1 to $ 1.50, with reductions for boarders by the week. 

VII. Language. 

The English language will be found sutRcient, unless the tourist desires 
to visit the more rem.ote districts of Cape Breton, or the Acadian settle- 
ments. The Gaelic is probably the predominant language on Cape Breton, 
but English is also spoken in the chief villages and fishing-communities. 
In the more secluded farming-districts among the highlands the Gaelic 
tongue is more generally used, and the tourist may sometimes find whole 
families, not one of whom can speak English. 

In the villages along the Lower St. Lawrence, and especially on the 
North Shore, the French language is in common use. 

The relation of this language to the polite French 
speech of the present day is not clearly understood, and it is frequently 
stigmatized by Americans as "an unintelligible patois" This state- 
ment is erroneous. The Canadian French has borrowed from the Eng- 
lish tongue a few nautical and political terms, and has formed for itself 
words describing the peculiar phenomena and conditions of nature in the 
new homes of the people. The Indians have also contributed numerous 
terms, descriptive of the animals and their habits, and the operations of 
forest-life. But the interpolated words are of rare occurrence, and the 
language is as intelligible as when brought from the North of France, two 
centuries ago. It is far closer in its resemblance to the Parisian speech 
than are the dialects of one fourth of the departments of France. Trav- 
ellers and immigrants from Old France find no difficulty in conversing 
with the Lower-Canadians, and the aristocracy of Quebec speak as pure 
an idiom as is used in the Faubourg St. Germain. 



8 INTRODUCTION. 

This language has an extensive and interesting literature, which in- 
cludes science, theology, history, romance, and poetry. It has also 
nnmerons newspapers and magazines, and is kept from adulteration by 
the vigilance of several colleges and a powerful university. It is used, 
co-ordinately with the English language, in the records and journals of 
the Dominion and Quebec Parh'aments, and speeches and pleadings in 
French ai'e allowable before those Parliaments and the cuurts of Quebec. 

Thus much to prove the substantial identity of the Lower-Canadian and 
French languages. The tourist who wishes to ramble through the an- 
cient French-Canadian districts will, therefore, get on very well if he has 
travelled much in Old France. 

VIII. Climate and Dress, 

The more northerly situation of the Maritime Provinces and their vicin- 
ity, on so many sides, to the sea, render the climate even more severe and 
uncertain than that of Nev/ England. The extremes of heat and cold are 
much farther apart than in the corresponding latitudes of Europe, and, 
as Marmier expresses it, this region " combines the torrid climate of 
southern i-egions with the severity of an hyperborean winter." During 
the brief but lovely summer the atmosphere is clear and balmy, and 
vegetation flourishes amain. The winters are long and' severe, but ex- 
ercise no evil effect on the people, nor restrain the merry games of the 
youths. Ever since Knowles sent to England his celebrated dictum that 
the climate of Nova Scotia consisted of " nine months of winter and three 
months of fog," the people of Britain and America have had highly ex- 
aggerated ideas of the severity of the seasons in the Provinces. These 
statements are not borne out by the facts ; and, though Nova Scotia 
and New Brunswick have not the mild skies of Virginia, their coldest 
weather is surpassed by the winters of the Northwestern States. The 
meteorological tables and the physical condition of the people prove that 
the climate, though severe, is healthy and invigorating. The time has 
gone by for describing these Provinces as a gloomy land of frozen Hyper- 
boreans, and for decrying them with pessimistic pen. 

The worst annoyance experienced by tourists is the prevalence of dense 
fogs, which sometimes sweep in suddenly from the sea and brood over the 
cities. In order to encounter such unwelcome visitations, and also to be 
prepared against fresh breezes on the open sea, travellers should be pro- 
vided with heavy shawls or overcoats, and woollen imderclothing should 
be kept at hand. 

IX. Fishing. 

All leases are sold at public auction, to the highest bidder, and as soon as 
vacant are again sokl. The Restigonche, Nepesiquit, and many other prin- 
cipal rivers will become vacant and be resold in March. 1892. Tiie leases 
on the Restigouche each cover 10 miles of river. Tiie lisliing is the best 



INTRODUCTION, 9 

in the world, and the river navigable all summer. The scenery is unsur- 
passed. Hundreds of American ladies and gentlemen spend their June 
and July on the Restigouche, Nepesiquit, Southwest iNIiramichi, Tobique, or 
other rivers. Man}' of them have handsome tishing-lodges and club-houses. 
In 1890 there were 1,480 salmon, averaging 23 lbs., killed by anglers on 
the Restigouche; and 620, averaging 12 lbs., on the Nepesiquit. The gov- 
ernment leases only cover those portions of the river which are unfjranted, 
and there are granted lots in many of the stretches leased in these cases. 
The granted portions are excepted from the leases, and the tishing is in the 
grantees, many of whom have sold to private parties or clubs. Some still 
own them, and either lease them by the day or for short terms. There 
is first-class salmon-fishing on the Southwest Miramichi. The waters are 
owned by private individuals. Some of these waters are for sale in fee 
simple. Permits by the day or for the season can always be had on reason- 
able terms on application to the Fishery Commissioner of New Brunswick 
(at Fredericton), who is prepared at all times cheerfully to give information 
to persons desiring it as to the fishing and hunting in any of the rivers or 
forests. Parties desirous of fishing should correspond well in advance, that 
selection of river ma}' be made and guides secured. All the rivers may be 
conveniently reached by rail from Fredericton, and the best of tackle and 
supplies can be had there at reasonable figures. The best fishing on most 
rivers is about the 15th of June. 

Lessees are bound by condition of their leases to place as many guardi- 
ans on leased premises. as required by Surveyor General, — usually one on 
each leased lot. The lessees on the principal rivers are mostly Americans, 
and the}' are always ready in their own interest to put on more guardians 
than are required. The Tobique River lease has been assigned to a club 
composed mostly of Philadelphia men. Hotel accommodation can be had 
at any of the towns where the railways strike the rivers; but anglers as- 
cending the river to fish must in most instances go by canoe, and camp on 
the river-banks. Each angler ought to have a canoe and two men to him- 
self. A canoe and two men costs $2.50 a day, with provisions. The men 
are good canoe-men and guides, and generally fair cooks. 

"The Game Fish of the Northern States and British Provinces," by 
Robert B. Roosevelt (published by Carleton, of New York, in 1865), 
contains an account of the salmon and sea-tront fishing of Canada and 
New Brunswick. The pursuit of sea-trout on the Lower St. Lawrence 
and Laval is described in pages 50-88 and -315-321; the Labrador rivers, 
pages 107-111 ; the Miramichi and Nepisiguit Rivers, pages 111-115 ; 
the Schoodic Lakes, pages 145-147. 

" Fishing in American Waters," by Genio C. Scott (published by Har- 
per and Brothers, 1869), contains practical directions to sportsmen, and 
graphic descriptions of fishing in the rivers of Nev/ Brunswick and Lower 
Quebec. 

" Frank Forester's Fish and Fishing of the United States and British 
1* 



10 INTRODUCTION. 

Provinces of North America," by H. W. Herbert (New York, 1850), is to 
a large extent technical and scientific, and contains but a few incidental 
allusions to the provincial fisheries. 

"The Pishing Tourist," by Cliarles Hallock (pnblislied by Harper and 
Brothers, 1873), contains about 100 pages of pleasant descriptions relat- 
ing to the Schoodic Lakes, the best trout and salmon streams of Nova 
Scotia, New Brunswick, and Cape Breton, the Bay of Chaleur, the Sague- 
nay and Lower St. Lawrence, Anticosti, and Labrador. The principal 
Rafnion and trout streams in New Brunswick are leased by the Provincial 
Government at public auction. For particulars, address the Surveyor- 
General at Fredericton. 

IX. Miscellaneous Notes. 

The times of departure of the provincial steamships are liable to change 
every season. The tourist can find full particulars of the days of sailing, 
etc., on arriving at St. John, from the local and the Halifax newspa- 
pers. The names of the agents of these lines have also been given here- 
niafter, and turthei iniunuaaon may be obtained by writing to their 
addresses. 

Tlie custom-house formalities at the national frontiers depend less upon 
the actual laws than upon the men who execute them. The examination 
of baggage is usually conducted in a lenient manner, but trunks and 
packages are sometimes detained on account of the presence of too many 
Canadian goods. It is politic, as well as gentlemanly, for the tourist to 
afford the officers every facility for the inspection of his baggage. 

The people of the Provinces are generally courteous, and are willing to 
answer any civilly put questions. The inhabitants of the more remote 
districts are distinguished for their hospitality, and are kindly disposed 
and honest. 

The New-Brunswick Division of the Canadian Pacific Railway, originally 
a narrow-gauge road from Gibson, opposite Fredericton, to Edmundston, 
has absorbed all the lines, but one, in Western New Brunswick, and is 
now a standard-gauge road for its entire length. 

It reaches all the cities and towns in the St. John and St. Croix valleys, 
and has direct connection with the Intercolonial Railway at St. John, by 
means of the great steel cantilever bridge over the Falls. It is supplied 
with new rolling-stock, and now in point of comfort and the excellence oi 
its train service is the equal of anv road. There is a day and a night 
Pullman train between St. John and the West. Tickets can be purchased 
at Boston to either of the following points of interest: St. John, Frederic- 
ton, St. Andrews, St. Stephen and Calais, Woodstock, Grand Falls, aifd 
Edmundston. The Temiscouata Railway, in operation in the summer of 
1888, gives a through route from Edmundston to the St. Lawrence at 
Riviere du Loup, whence the traveller may go by rail to Quebec, or by 
steamer to Tadousac, Saguenav, returning to Quebec. 



EOUTES FEOM BOSTON TO THE MAEITIME 
PEOVIKCES. 



1. B]j Railway. 

The Boston cf Maine and Maine Central Railroad Lines form the usual 
mode of approach b}' land. Tlieir trains leave the terminal station in 
Boston, and run through to Bangor without change of cars. pLilhnan 
cars are attached to the through trains, and tickets are sold to nearly ail 
points in the Eastern Provinces. At Bangor passengers change cars, but 
remain in the hands of the Manie Central until Vanceboro at tlie inienia- 
tional boundary is reached, where the rails of the Canadian Pacific Rail- 
way begin. Between Boston and Portland this route traverses a peculiarly 
interesting country, with frequent glimpses of the sea; but the country be- 
tween Bangor and St. John is almost devoid of attractions, being for the 
most part through the forest, until Westtield is reached. For the last 20 
M. there are many beautiful views over the St.-John River. 

"The Flying Yankee"' train makes the run from Boston to St. John 
(448 M.) in 14 hours, leaving Boston at 8 A. m. by the Boston & Maine 
Railro.'.d, and reaching St. John at 10 p. m., and Halifax at 9.30 a. m., next 
day. The Provincial Express morning train from Boston to St. John has 
through cars, without change at Bangor. 

The New-Brunswick Division of the Canadian Pacific Railway also con- 
nects with the Maine Central system, and runs through trains from St. 
John to Montreal, across the State of Maine, by way of Mattawamkeag 
and the Moosehead-Lake region. 

2. By Stea^nship. 

The International Steamship Company despatches vessels three times 
weekly from June 15 to October 1, leaving Commercial Wharf, Boston, at 
8.30 A.M., on Monday, Wednesday, and Friday. They touch at Portland, 
\:'iirh is left at 5 p.m.; and aftei-wards they run along the Miine cn^t, 
calling at Eastport the next morning, and traversing Passamaquoddy Bay. 
They reach St. John in the afternoon. Fares, — from Boston to Eastport, 
S4; to St. John, $4.50. Another stanch vessel of this line plies regularly 
between Boston, Digby, and Annapolis (22 hours at sea). 

The Yarmouth Steamship Co. affords the most convenient route to visit 
the famous hunting and fishing grounds of the western counties of Nova 
Scotia. Their steamships leave Lewis Wharf, Boston, Tuesday and Fri- 
day, for Yarmouth, giving an exhilarating voyage of 17 hours across tb^ 
open sea. 



12 FROM BOSTON TO THE MARITIME PROVINCES. 

The Boston, Halifax, and Prince Edward Island Steamship Line de- 
spatch vessels from Lewis Wharf, Boston, Wednesday noons. After 
reaching Halifax these steamships run N. E. along the Nova-Scotia coast, 
round Cape Canso, and traverse the picturesque Gut of Canso, They call 
at Pictou and then run across to Charlottetown. By leaving the vessel at 
Port Hawkesbur^'-, the tourist can easily reach the Bras d'Or and other 
parts of the island of Cape Breton. These vessels connect at Halifax with 
the railways for Windsor, etc., and the Newfoundland steamships ; -and 
Port Plawkesbury Avith the Bras d'Or steamers and the Cape-Breton Rail- 
way ; and at Pictou with the steamships of the Quebec S. S. Co., for Que- 
bec and Montreal. 

3. Routes by toay of 3Iontreal and Quebec. 

Montreal may be reached by either the Central Vermont R. R., the Mon- 
treal & Boston Air Line (Passumpsic R. R.), or the Boston & Maine (Lowell 
Div.) Grand Trunk Lines. These routes are all described in Neio England: 
a Handboolc for Travellers. The most picturesque route from Quebec to 
the Maritime Provinces is hj the vessels of the Quebec Steamship Company, 
which leave every week for the eastern ports of Quebec and Nova Scotia, 
connecting with the local lines of travel. The Intercolonial Railway extends 
around from Quebec to St. John and Halifax. 

The Canadian Pacific Eailway runs from St. John, N. B., to Mon- 
treal, 481 M., in 17^ hours. The train leaving St. John at 3 p. m. reaches 
Moosehead Lake at H.15, Magog at 5. 30 A. m., and Montreal at 8.35 
A. M. It follows the New-Brunswick Division to Vanceboro, and the 
Maine Central to Mattawamkeag, and then traverses the lonely and rugged 
wilderness of Maine for 144 M., entering the Province of Quebec near Lake 
Megantic. At Lennoxville, connection is made with the Passumpsic line; 
and at Sherbrooke the Quebec Central is met. 

The Quebec Central Railway runs N. from Sherbrooke along the St. 
Francis River and by Lake Aylmer and Black Lake, and the famous as- 
bestos mines of Tring. Thence it reaches the Chaudiere Vallej', and de- 
scends to the St. Lawrence. 

4. Newfoundland. 
Passengers bound for the remoter East, for Newfoundland or Labrador, 
will find the best accommodations on the steamships of the Allan Line, 
which run from Halifax and Baltimore to St. John's, N. F. (and Ihence 
to Liverpool, etc.). The smaller vessels of the Red-Cross Line (from New- 
York) also run to St. John's. 



Further particulars about these lines and their accommodations, the days 
on wliich they depart for Boston, etc., may be fouuil in thcii* advertise- 
ments, which are grouped at the end of the book. There, also, may be 
found the names and addresses of the agents of the lines, from whom other 
information may be obtained, by letter or by personal application. The 
main question for the summer tourist will naturally be whether he shall 
go eastward by rail or by a short sca-voynge. 



MARITIME-PROVmCES HANDBOOK. 



NEW BRUNSWICK. 

The Province of New Brunswick is situated nearly in the centre of tlie 
North Temperate Zone, and is bounded by Maine and Quebec on the W., 
Quebec and the Bay of Chaleur on the N., the Gulf of St. Lawrence and 
the Northumberland Strait on the E., and Nova Scotia and the Bay of 
Fundy on the S. It is 140 M. long from E. to W., and 190 M. from N. to 
S., and contains 27,105 square miles. The direct coast-line (exclusive of 
indentations) is 410 M., which is nearly equally divided between the S. 
and E. shores, and is broken by many fine harbors. The Bay of Fundy 
on the S., and the Bay of Chaleur on the N., are of great size and com- 
mercial importance, — the former being 140 M. long by 30-50 M. wide; 
the latter being 90 M. long by 10 - 25 M. wide. The fisheries in the great 
bays and in the. Gulf are of immense value, employing many thousand 
men, and attracting large American fleets. They have furnished suste- 
nance to the people of the maritime counties, and have been the occasion 
of developing a race of skilful mariners. During the past 50 years 6,000 
vessels have been built in this Province, valued at nearly $80,000,000. 
The lumber business is conducted on a vast scale on all the rivers, and 
the product amounts to several million dollars a year. 

The country is generally level, and is crossed by low ridges in the N. 
and W. Thei-e are numerous lakes, whose scenery is generally of a sombre 
and monotonous character. The interior is traversed by the rivers St. 
John, Restigouche, Miramichi, Petitcodiac, Nepisiguit, and Richibucto, 
which, with their numerous tributaries, afford extensive facilities for boat- 
navigation. The river-fisheries of New Brunswick are renowned for their 
variety and richness, and attract many American sportsmen. 

There are 14,000,000 acres of arable land in the Province, a great por- 
tion of which has not yet been brought into cultivation. The intervales 
of the rivers contain 60,000 acres, and are very rich and prolific, being 
fertilized by annual inundations. The chief agricultural products are 
wheat, buckwheat, barley, oats, potatoes, butter, and cheese : the value of 
the crops exceeding $5,000,000 a year. 

The climate is less inclement on the Bay of Fundy than farther inland. 
The mean temperature for the last ten years at St. John was, for the 
winter, 171°; spring, 37i°; summer, 58^; autumn, 441°. The thermom- 



14 NEW BRUNSWICK. 

eter ranges between —22" and 87° as the extremes marked during the 
past ten years. 

The present domain of New Brunswick was formerl}^ occupied by two 
distinct nations of Indians. The Micmacs were an offshoot of the Algon- 
quin race, and inhabited all the sea-shore regions. The^^ were powerful 
and hardy, and made daring boatmen and fishermen. The Milicetes were 
from the Huron nation, and inhabited the St. John valley and the inland 
forests, being skilful in hunting and all manner of woodcraft. They were 
less numerous and warlike than the Micmacs. Both tribes had a simple 
and beautiful theology, to which was attached a multitude of quaint 
mythological legends. 

This region was included in the ancient domain of Acadie (or Acadia), 
which was gi'anted to the Sieur De Monts by King Henri IV. of France, 
in 1603. De Monts explored the St. John River, and planted an ephemeral 
colony on the St. Croix, in 1604. From 1635 until 1645 the St. John River 
was the scene of the feudal wars between La Tour and Charnisay. Oliver 
Cromwell sent an expedition in 1654, which occupied the country; but 
it was restored to France by Charles 11. in 1670. After the war of 1689 - 
97, this region was again confirmed to France, and its^W. boundary was 
located at the St. George River, W. of Penobscot Bay^.' Meantime the 
shores of the Bay of Chaleur and the Gulf of St. Lawrence had been set- 
tled by the French, between 1639 and 1672. The New-Englanders invaded 
the Province in 1703, and in 1713 Acadia was ceded to England. 

The French limited the cession to Nova Scotia, and fortified the line of 
the j\Iissiguash River, to protect the domains to the N. In 1755 a naval 
expedition from Boston took these forts, and also the post at St. John; 
and in 1758 the whole Province was occupied by Anglo-American troops. 
In 1763 it was surrendered to England by the Treaty of Versailles. 

The Americans made several attacks on northern Acadia during the 
Revolutionary War, but were prevented from holding the country bv the 
British fleets at Halifax. At the close of the Avar many thousands of 
American Loyalists retired from the United States to this and the adjoin- 
ing countries. In 1784 New Brunswick was organized as a Province, 
having been previously dependent on Nova Scotia; and in 1788 the capi- 
tal was established at Fredericton. Immigration from Great Britain now 
commenced, and the forests began to give way before the lumbermen. In 
1839 the Province called out its militia on the occasion of the boundary 
disputes with Maine; and in 1861 it was occupied with British troo]r« on 
account of the possibility of a war with the United States about the Trent 
affair. In 1865 New Brunswick refused, by a p pular vote, to enter the 
Dominion of Canada, but it accepted the plan the next year, and became 
a part of the Dominion in 1867. 

The population of New Briniswick -was 74,170 in 1824, 154,000 in 1810, 
285,777 in 1871, 321,2o;i in 1881, and ;321,2i]4 in 1891. 




WEST SIDE. 



29. Cantilever R. R. Bridge . 

W. Marsli Bridjre 

31. Suspension Bridge . . . 

32. Reed's Point . . . . . 

33. Negrotown Point . . . 



City Hall . . 
Market . . . 
Martello Tower 



New Victoria . 



Y. M. C.A. . . 

9. Rink 

lU. Marine Ho.spital 

11. City Hospital . 

12. Wiggins Asylum 

13. Cemetery . . . 

14. King's Square . 

15. Queen's Square . 
Hi. Cathedral . . . 

17. Trinity Church 

18. St. Paul's . . . 

19. St. John's . . . 
211. St. Andrew's. . 
21. Intercolonial and 



. F. 2 

. D. 4 

. F. 2 

. D. 4 

. E. 3 

. E. 3 

. D. 4 
E. 2, 3 



ST. JOHN. Route 1. 15 



1. St. John. 

Arrival from the Sea. — Soon after passing Negro Head, the steamer runs 
in by Partridge Island, the round and rocky guai-d of the harbor of St. John. Its 
precipitous sides are seamed with deep clefts and narrow chasms, and on the upland 
are seen the Quarantine Hospital, the buildings of the steam fog-horn and the light- 
house, and the ruins of a cliff battery. On the 1. is the bold headland of Negrotown 
Point, crowned by dilapidated earthworks. The course now leads in by the Beacon- 
light (1. side), with the Martello Tower on Carleton Heights, and the high-placed 
St. Jude"s Church on the 1. In front are the green slopes and barracks of the Mili- 
tary Grounds, beyond which are the populous hills of St. John. 

Hotels. — The Royal Hotel, on King Street, and the Hotel Dufferin, at the cor- 
ner of King Square and Charlotte Street, are comfortable houses, charging $3-3.50 
a day. The New Victoria is on Princess Street. The Clifton, Victoria, and Clar- 
endon are smaller houses. 

Amusements. — Theatrical performances and other entertainments are fre- 
quently given at the handsome new Music Hall, on Union Street. Lectures and 
concerts are given in the hall of the Mechanics' Institute, near the head of Germain 
Street. 

KeatliJig-Kooui-S. — The Young Men's Christian Association, on Charlolte 
St., near King Square ; open from 9 a. m. until 10 P. M. The Mechanics' Institute, 
near the head of Germain St., has an extensive variety of British papers on file. 

Carriages. — For a course within the city, 30c. for one passenger, 10c. for each 
additional one. For each half-hour, 50c. If the river is crossed by ferry the pas- 
senger pays the toll, which is, for a double carriage, 15c. each way. 

Street-Cars run from Market Square through Dock and Mill Sts., to the ter- 
minus of the river steamboat-lines, at Indiantown ; and to Reed's Point and else- 
where. 

Railways. — The New-Brunswick Division of the Canadian Pacific Railway 
runs W. to Van -eboro (92 M.), connecting for all points in Maine, and for Boston 
and New York, and also for Quebec, 3Iontrfal, and the West. It also connects up 
the St. -John Valley, by way of Fredericton, with the St. -Lawrence Valley; and 
down the St. -Croix Valley, with St. Stephen and St Andrews. The Shore Line 
runs to St. Stephen direct. The Intercolonial Railway runs E. to Shediac, Truro, 
and Halifax (276 M.), and to Quebec. 

Steamsliips. — The International Steamship Com- 

pany despatch their sea worthy vessels from St. John f')i- Hoston. touching at East- 
port and Portland, and connecting wihh steamers for St Andrews, St. Stephen, 
Calais, and Grand Manan. In Jan. and Keb. they leave St. .John on Thursdays; 
from March to July, and from Sept. 22 to .]-u\ , they leave on Mondays and Thurs- 
days : and July, Aug., and early Sept., on Monday, VV'ednesday, and Friday. Sail- 
ing time, 7.25a.m. Fare to Boston, ."$ 4.-50 Time, St. John to Eastport, 4 hrs. ; to 
Ponlaud, 1'.) hrs.; to Boston, 27 hrs. The Annapolis steamers cross the Bay of 
Fundy to Digby and Annapolis several times weekly, at 7.30a.m., connecting at An- 
napolis with the railway for Halifax. 

The steamers of the Union Line leave Indiantown daily at 9 A. M., for Frederic- 
ton and the intermediate bindings. 

Steamboats leave St John for Washademoak Lake, Grand Lake, and Belle Isle Bay 
(Hatfield's Point) ; for Spencer's Island, Parrsboro Pier, Kingsport, and Hantsport, 
on the Basin of Minas, every Thursday ; for Weym^iuth, N. S., every Wednesday ; 
for Eastport, Campobello, and Grand Manan, every Tuesday; lor Eastport, Bat 
H^irbor, and New York, every Tuesday ; for Eastport, Rockland, Cottage City (Mass.), 
and New York, every Tuesday. 

The Carleton ferry-steameis leave the foot of i>rincess St. every 15 minute* until 
9.30 P.M. Fare, 3c.; for one-horee carriages, 9c.; for two-horse cai-riages, 15 c. 

The Clifton makes trips from Indiaucowu to Moss Uien, CUlcoa, aud Hampton, 
up the beautiful Kenaebeca.iiS (see pages 2:^ and 7ij. 



16 Route 1. ST. JOHN. 

St. John, the chief city of the Province of New Brunswick and the 
commercial metropolis of the Bay of Fundy, occupies a commanding 
position at the mouth of the St. John River. From its favorable situation 
for the purposes of commerce it has been termed "the Liverpool of 
Canada." The ridge upon which St. John is built is composed of solid 
rock, through which streets have been cut at great expense ; and the plan of the 
streets is regular, including a succession of rectangular squares. The city 
is one of the chief ship-owning ports of the British Empire, and aspires to 
be the winter-port of Canada. It has 39,000 inhabitants in the South End 
(old St. John), the North End (formerly Portland), and the West Side (Carle- 
ton). Lieut.-Gov. Sir Leonard Tilley dwells in Carleton House. Among 
the more noticeable modern buildings are the Wesleyan "Cathedral" and 
the Queen-Square Church ; St. Andrew's, on the site of the Old Kirk, and 
St. David's, Presbyterian churches with fine stained-glass windows; the 
handsome stone edifice of the Union Club, on Germain Street ; and the In- 
tercolonial Railwaj'- station, the finest in Canada east of Montreal. The 
steel cantilever bridge, over the falls of the St. John River, belongs to a 
company, and cost over $600,000. Over this great engineering work the 
railway from the westward enters St. John and the Intercolonial station. 
The harbor is good, and is kept free from ice by the high tides of the Bay 
of Fundy and the sweeping current of the St. John River. It is usually 
well filled with shipping, and the shores are lined with wharves and mills. 
St. John has 41 churches, 4 banks, and 4 daily and several weekl}' papers. 

King Street is the main business street of the cit}', and runs from the 
harbor across the peninsula to Courteuay Bay. All the principal shops 
are on this street, between the harbor and King Square, and along Prince 
William St., wliich intersects it near the water. At the foot of the street 
is the Marlcei Slip, into which the light packet-boats and produce-vessels 
from the adjacent rural counties bring wood and provisions for the use 
of the city. At low tide, these vessels are, for the most part, left to 
hold themselves up on the muddy flats. At this point landed the weary 
and self-exiled American Loyalists, in 1783, and founded the city of St. 
John. The rather dreary breadth of King St. is occupied in its lower 
part by wagoners and unemployed workmen. From this point the street 
ascends a steep hill, passing the chief retail shoos, and several banks and 
hotels, with numerous fine buildings on the rebuilt disti-ict. King Square 
is an open space of about 3 acres in ai'ea, studded with trees, and adorned 
in the centre with a fountain. Before the great fire, its entrance was 
adonnMl with a prt'lciiiions tviuniplial arch, erected in honor of Prince 
Arthur's visit, and all crwai-ils ulilized for sustaining the fire-alarm bell. 
The City Market House is on the E., and exhibits the products of this 
region on well-arranged stalls. A few steps N. W. of the Square (on 
Charlotte St. ) is the handsome building of the Young Men's Christian 
Association, containing a large hall, gymnasium, parlors, and class-rooms. 
The library and readmg-room are open daily (except Sunday) from 9 A. M. 
to 10 p. M., and strangers are welcomed. The building cost $38,000, and 



ST. JOIIX. ' Route 1. 17 

was dedicated in 1S72, but subsequently gave signs of instability, and has 
since been strengthened at considerable expense. The County Court 
House and Jail are at the S. E. corner of King Square, and are antiquated 
and homely stone buildings. To the E. is the Old Burying- Ground, con- 
taining the graves of the pioneers of the province, with epitaphs iu many 
cases quaint and interesting. 

Trinity Church extends Irom Germain St. to Charlotte St., near Prin- 
cess St., and is the finest church-building in the INIaritime Provinces, being 
massively constructed of gray stone, with rambling connections, and a 
very striking interior. Occupying a conspicuous position near the crest 
nf tlie hill, it is visible for a great distance. The first church on this site 
was built in 1788, and contained mural tablets and the Roj-al Arms from 
the Old State House, Boston, brought by the Loyalists in 178ci. I'liJis 
venerable building was destroyed in the great tire of 1877. Not far from 
Trinity is the Masonic Temple, a large and costly new edifice of brick. 
The publishing house of the McMillans is on an adjacent street, with its 
printing-office and book-store. 

By ascending the third street (Queen) to the 1., Queen Square is reached, 
— a well-kept park surrounded with dwelling-houses. A short dis- 
tance to the E., on St. James St., is the Wiggins Mcde Orphan Institu- 
tion, a building in Gothic architecture, of red and gray sandstone. 
Tt is the most elegant and symmetrical structure of its size in the Prov- 
ince, and cost over $ 100,000, but is only adequate to the accommodation 
of 30 orphans. The Marine Hospital is in this vicinity. 

A short walk out Sydney St. or Caermarthen St. leads to the Military 
Grounds, on the extreme S. point of the peninsula. Here is a spacious 
parade-ground, which is now used only by the cricket and base-ball clubs, 
Avith a drill-shed which will hold 2,000 soldiers. These grounds were 
formerly occupied by large detachments from the British army, whose 
ofScers were a desired acquisition to the society of the city, while the mili- 
tary bands amused the people by concerts on Queen Square. 

Prince William Street runs S. from Market Square to Reed's Point, and 
is one of the chief thoroughfares of the city, containing several hotels and 
some of the largest shops. Where it crosses Princess St., the Carleton 
ferry is seen to the r. The * Post-OfHce is an elegant building of gray 
sandstone, at the corner of Princess St. ; opposite which is the new City 
Hall, a handsome stone building. The Savings Bank, the Bank of New 
Brunswick, and other institutions, are luxuriously domiciled in this vi- 
cinity. The great fire of 1877, which destroyed several millions' worth 
of property in St. John, swept this district clean, and many elegant new 
buildings have since arisen. The * Custom House is of creamy Dorches- 
ter sandstone, costing .$250,000, with iron roofs and fire-proof floors, and 
two tall towers for the time-ball, the shipping signals, and the storm- 
drum. It contains several of the provincio-national offices, and a storm- 
signal station which receives warnings from " Old Probabilities " at Wash- 



18 Route 1. ST. JOHN. 

ington and Toronto. The street ends at ReecVs Point, the headquarters of 
several lines of coasting-steamers, whence may be seen the Breakwater, W. 
of the Military Grounds. 

At the N. end of Germain St. is the old Stone Church, a sanctuary of 
the Episcopalians under the invocation of St. John. Its square stone 
tower is visible for a long distance, on account of the elevation of the site 
on which it stands. Nearly opposite is the brick Calvin Church (Presby- 
terian); and in the sarrie vicinity is the classic wooden front of the Me- 
chanics' Institute, which has a large hall. 

The reading-room is supplied with Canadian and British 
newspapers, and the library contains about 7,000 volumes (open from 2^ to 
5 o'clock). 

The Roman Catholic * Cathedral is situated on Waterloo St., and is 
the largest church in the Province. It is constructed of marble and sand- 
stone, in pointed architecture, and has a tall and graceful spire. 
The interior is in a style of the severest simplicity, the Gothic arches of 
the clere-story being supported on plain and massive piers. The windows 
are of stained glass, and are very brilliant and rich. The chancel and 
transept windows are large and of fine design ; a rose window is placed over 
the organ-loft ; and the side windows represent Saints Bernard, Dominic, 
Ambrose, Jerome, Mark, Matthew, Andrew, Benedict, I'rancis, John, 
Luke, Augustine, and Gregory. The building is 200 ft. long, and 110 ft. 
wide at the transepts. The Bisho2)''s Palace is the fine sandstone building 
towards Cliff St., beyond which is the extensive building of the Orjihan 
Asylum, fronting on Cliff St. On the other side of the Cathedral is the 
plain brick building of the Nunnery. The visitor should notice, over the 
Cathedral portal adjacent to the Nunnery, the great marble bas-relief of 
the Last Supper (after Leonardo Da Vinci's painting at Milan), 

From this point Waterloo St. descends to the Marsh Bridge, at the head 
of Courtenay Bay. By ascending Cliff St. for a short distance, a point 
may be reached from which are seen the Valley, with its churches and 
streets, and the embowered villas on Mount Pleasant, over which rises the 
Academy of the Sacred Heart (once Read's Castle). Noble views of the 
Bay of Fundy and the St. John River and its blue highland walls are 
gained from the estate of Mr. J. Murray Kay (now of Brookline, Mass.). 

The General Public Hospital is situated on a bold rocky knoll wliicli 
overlooks the Marsh Valley, and is entered from Waterloo St. It consists 
of a large brick building and accommodates 80 patients. 

The structure pertains to the city, and was erected in 1865 at a cost of 
$ 54,000. Directly below the precipitous sides of the knoll on which it is 
built is the broad Marsh, covei-ed with houses, and extending on the r. 
to Courtenay Bay. The geologists entertain a plausible theory that in 
remote ages the St. John River flowed down this valley from the Kenne- 
becasis to the sea, until finally the present channel through the Narrows 
was opened by some convulsion of nature. 



ST. JOHN. Route 1. 19 

That suburb wliich is known as the Valley lies between the rocky hills 
of the city proper and the line of Mount Pleasant, It is reached from 
King Square by Charlotte and Cobourg Streets, and contains the tracks 
and station of the Intercolonial Railway. The most prominent object in 
the Valley is St. Paul's Church (Episcopal), a graceful wooden edifice with 
ti-ansepts, a clere-story, and a tall sp're. The windows are of stained glass. 
The brick church of St, Stephen and the Owen's Art School with its pic- 
ture-gallery are also situated in the Valley, and the road to Lily Lake di- 
verges to the r. from the latter. Fai-ther to the E., on the City Road, is 
the Victoria Skatinrj Eink, a round wooden building, 160 ft. in diameter, 
covered with a domed roof. Lansdowne Rink and the Palace liink are 
famous resorts for curlers and skaters, on Charlotte Street, 

The site of St. John was the Menagwes of ancient Micmac tradition, where the 
divine Glooscap once liad his liome. Hence, during liis absence, his attendants 
were carried away by a powerful evil magician, who lied with them to Grand Manan, 
Cape Breton, and Newfoundland, where lie was pursued by Glooscap, who rode 
much of the way on the hacks of whales which he called in from the deep sea. 
Passing through Cape Breton, he at length reached the dark Newfoundland shores, 
■where he assumed such a stature that the clouds rolled about his head- The evil- 
doing wizard was soon found and put to death and the servants of Glooscap were 
set free. 

The site of St. John was discovered by Champlain and De Monts, on St. John's 
Day (June 24), 1804, but was not occupied for 30 years after. 

Claude de la Tour, a Huguenot noble, was one of the-earliest of the French adven- 
turers in this region, and received a grant of all Acadia from Charles I. of England. 
After his repulse and humiliation (see Route 25), the French government divided 
Acadia into three provinces, placing tliere as governors, M. Denys, Razilly, and the 
young and chivalrous Charles de St. Estienne, Lord of La Tour (son of Claude). 
Denys contented himself with the ocean-fisheries from Canso and Cape Breton. 
Razilly soon died, leaving his domain to his kinsman Charles de Menou, Sieurd'Aul- 
nay Charnisay, who was also related to Cardinal Richelieu. D'Aulnay and La Tour 
began to quarrel about the boundaries of their jurisdictions, and the former em- 
ployed a powerful influence at the Court of France to aid his cause. Louis XIII. 
finally ordered him to carry La Tour to France, in chains, and open war ensued 
between these patrician adventurers. La Tour had erccte I a fort at St. John in 
lii34, whence he carried on a lucrative fur-trade with the Indians. In 1643 this 
stronghold was attacked by D"Aulnay with six vessels, but La Tour escaped on the 
ship Cleme.nt, leaving his garrison to hold the works. He entered Boston Harbor 
■with 140 Huguenots of La Rochelle, and sought aid from Massachusetts against the 
Catholic forces which were besieging him. The austere Puritans referred to the 
Bible to see if they could find any precedent for such action, but found no certain 
response from that oracle. "On the one hand, it was said that the speech of the 
Prophet to Jehoshaphat, in 2d Chronicles xix. 2, and the portion of Solomon's 
Proverbs contained in chap, xxvi, 17th verse, not only discharged them from any 
obligation, but actually forbade them to assist La Tour; while, on the other hand, 
it was agreed that it was as lawful for them to give him succor as it was for Joshua 
to aid the Gibeonites against the rest of the Canaanites, or for Jehoshaphat to aid 
Jehoram against Moab, in which expedition Elishawas present, and did not reprove 
the King of Judah." But when they had assured themselves that it would bo 
allowable f r them to aid the distressed nobleman, they sent such a fleet that D'Aul- 
nay's forces were quickly scattered, and the siege was raised. Two years later, 
while La Tour was absent, D'Aulnay again attacked the fort, but was handsomely 
repulsed (with a loss of 33 men) by the little garrison, headed by Madame La Tour. 
Some months later he returned, and opened a regular siege on the landward side 
(the fort was in Carleton, near Navy Islmd) After three days of fighting a treach- 
erous Swiss sentry admitted the enemy into the works ; and even then Madame La 
Tour led her troops so gallantly that the victor gave her her own terms. These 



20 Route 1. ST. JOHN. 

terms, however, were shamefully violated, and the garrison was massacred before 
her face. Three weeks afterward, she died of a broken heart. La Tour came back 
to St. John some years later, and found that D'Aulnay was dead, whereupon he 
effectually recaptured his old domain by marrying the widow of the conqueror 
(1653). D'Aulnay died in 1650, having spent 800,000 livres in Acadia, and built 5 
fortresses, 2 seminaries, and several churches. He had several sons, all of whom 
entered the French army, and were slain in the service. 

In 1690 a sharp engagement took place in St. John harbor, between the French 
frigate Union and two English vessels. The former had entered the harbor bearing 
the Chevalier de Villebou, and was taken at a disadvantage. After a severe cannon- 
ade, the Union hauled down her colors. Villebon soon descended the river with 
a party of Indians and attacked the ships, but without success. In 1696, while the 
Chevalier de Yillebon governed Acadia from the upper St. John and hurled de- 
structive Indian bands upon New England, Massachusetts sent three men-of-war to 
blockade the mouth of the river and cut off his supplies. They were soon attacked 
by D'lberville's French frigates, and made a desperate resistance. But the New- 
port, 24, was unable to withstand the heavy fire of the Profond, and soon lay dis- 
masted and helpless. After her surrender the other American vessels escaped 
under cover of a thick fog. A new fleet from Boston soon afterwards overhauied 
the French frigates, cruising between Mount Desert and St. John, and captured 
the Profond, with M. de Villebon, the Governor of Acadia, on board. In 1701 the 
fort of St. John was dismantled by Brouillan : but in 1708 it was rebuilt, and had 
4 bastions and 24 pieces of artillery 

In July, 1749, H. B. M. sloop-of-war Albany entered the harbor and drove away 
the French troops, lowering also the standard of France. The frigates Hound and 
York had a skirmish with the French here in 1750, and were ordered out of the 
port by Boishebert, the commandant of the fort. In 1755, four British war-vessels 
entered the harbor, and the French garrison demolished the fort, blew up the mag- 
azine, and retreated into the country. In 1758 Fort La Tour was still garrisoned 
by French soldiers, but, after a shoit siege by an Anglo-American force, the post 
was surrendered at discretion. Two years later, the place was visited by James 
Simonds, an adventurous New-Englander, who was, however, soon driven away by 
the Indians, " Catholics and allies of France.'" In 1764 he returned with a party 
of Massachusetts fishermen, and settled on the present site of the city, erecting de- 
fensive works on Portland Heights, under the name of Fort Howe. In 1775 a naval 
expedition of Ameiicaus from Machias entered the harbor and destroyed the old 
Prench fortifications (then called Fort Frederick), completing their work by plun- 
dering and bombarding the village. May 18, 1783, a British fleet arrived m the 
port bringing 5,000 of the self-styled ''United Empire Loyalists," Americans who 
■were loyal to King George and could not or would not remain in the new Republic 
of the United States. From this day may be dated the growth of the city of St. 
John. 

New Brunswick was set off from Nova Scotia as a separate Province the next 
year, and in 1786 its first Legislative Assembly was convened here. In 1787 
Trinity Church was founded ; in 1788 harbor-lights were established on Partridge 
Island, and in 1799 the Royal Gazette was started. In 1837 one third of the com- 
mercial portion of the city was burned, involving a loss of £250,000. During the 
boundary dispute with the State of Maine (1839-42) the citizens were all enrolled 
and drilled in military exercises, in preparation for a war on the borders. Large 
fortunes were made by the merchants during the Crimean war, when the British 
timber-market, which had depended largely on the Baltic ports for its supply, was 
by their closing forced to draw heavily on the Amei-ioan Provinces. The last his- 
toric event at St. John was its occvipation, in the winter of 1861. by several of the 
choicest regiments of the British army, among which were the Grenadier Guards, 
the Scotch Fusiliers, and other elite corps. After the peaceful solution of the Trent 
affair this formidable garrison was removed, and the city has since been left to 
prosper in the arts of peace and industry. 

" Here is picturesque St. John, with its couple of centuries of history and tradi- 
tion, its commerces, its enterprise felt all along the coast and through the settle- 
ments of the territory to the northeast, with its no doubt charming society and 
solid English culture ; and the summer tourist, in an idle mood regarding it for 
a day, says it is naught." (Warnek's Baddeck.) 

St. John aspires to be the winter-port of tlic Dominion, and the Interco- 
/onial, Canadian Pacific, and Grand Trunk lines are arranging great ter- 
minal facilities here. Halifax is an energetic rival, although much farther 
from the Upper Provinces. 



ST. JOHN. 



Route 1. 



21 



St. Joliii. 1647. 



"To the winds give our banner I 

Bear homeward again ! " 
Cried tlie Lord of Acadia, 

Cried Charles of Estienne ; 
From tlie prow of his shallop 

He gazed, as the sun, 
From its bed in tlie ocean. 

Streamed up the St. John. 

O'er the blue western waters 

That shallop had passed. 
Where the mists of Penobscot 

Clung damp on her niast. 
St. Savior had looked 

On the heretic sail. 
As the songs of the Huguenot 

Rose on the gale. 

The pale, ghostly fathers 

Remembered her well. 
And had cursed her while passing. 

With taper and bell, 
But the men of Monhegan, 

Of Papists abhorred. 
Had welcomed and feasted 

The heretic Lord. 

Thev had loaded his shallop 

With dun-fish and ball. 
With stores for his larder. 

And steel for his wall. 
Pemequid, from her bastions 

And turrets of stone. 
Had welcomed his coming 

With banner and gun. 

And the prayers of the elders 

Had followed his way. 
As homeward he glided 

Down Pentecost Bay. 
O, well sped La Tour ! 

For, in peril and pain, 
His lady kept watch 

For his coming again. 

0"er the Isle of the Pheasant 

The morning sun shone. 
On the plane-trees which shaded 

The shores of St. John. 
" Now why from yon battlements 

Speaks not my love? 
Why waves there no banner 

My fortress above ? " 

Dark and wild, from his deck 

St. Estienne gazed about, 
On fire-wasted dwellings, 

And silent redoubt ; 
From the low shattered walls 

Which the flame had o'errun, 
There floated no banner. 

There thundered no gun. 

But beneath the low arch 

Of its doorway there stood 
A pale priest of Rome, 

In his cloak and his hood. 
With the bound of a lion 

La Tour sprang to Innd, 
On the throat of the Papist 

He fastened his hand. 

" Speak, son of the Woman 

Of scarlet and sin ! 
What wolf has been prowling 

My castle within ? " 
From the grasp of the soldier 

The Jesuit broke. 
Half in scorn, half in sorrow, 

He smiled as he spoke : 



"No wolf. Lord of Estienne, 

Has ravaged thv hall, 
But thy red-handed rival, 

With fire, steel, and balll 
On an errand of mercy 

I hitlierward came. 
While the walls of thy castle 

Yet spouted with flame. 

" Pentagoet s dark vessels 

Were moored in the bay. 
Grim sea-lions, roaring 

Aloud for their prey 1 " 
" But what of my lady?" 

Cried Charles of Estienne. 
" On the shot-crumbled turret 

Tliy lady was seen : 

" Half veiled in the smoke-cloud, 

Her hand grasped thy pennon, 
While her dark tresses swayed 

In the hot breath of cannon I 
But woe to the heretic, 

Evermore woe ! 
When the son of the church 

And the cross is his foe! 

" In the track of the shell. 

In the path of the ball, 
Pentagoet swept over 

The breach of the wall! 
Steel to steel, gun to gun. 

One moment, — and then 
Alone stood the victor. 

Alone with his men! 

" Of its sturdy defenders. 

Thy lady alone 
Saw the cross-blazoned banner 

Float over St. John." 
" Let the dastard look to it 1 " 

Cried fiery Estienne, 
" Were DAulnay King Louie, 

I d free her again I " 

" Alas for thy lady ! 

No service from thee 
Is needed by her 

Whom the Lord hath set free : 
Nine days, in stern silence. 

Her thraldom she bore. 
But the tenth morning came. 

And Death opened her door I " 

As if suddenly smitten, 

La Tour staggered back ; 
His hand grasped his sword-hilt, 

His forehead grew black. 
He sprang on the deck 

Of liis shallop again. 
" We cruise now for vengeance I 

Give way ! " cried Estienne. 

" Massachusetts shall hear 

Of the Huguenot s wrong. 
And from island and creekside 

Her fishers shall throng ! 
Pentagoet shall rue 

What his Papists have done, 
When his palisades echp 

The Puritans gun I " 

O, the loveliest of heavens 

Hung tenderly per hirh. 
There were waves in the sunshine. 

And green isles before him : 
But a pale hand -vcas beckoning 

The Huguenot on ; 
And in blackness and ashes 

Behind was St. John ! 

John G. Whittier. 



22 Route S. THE ENVIRONS OF ST. JOHN. 



2. The Environs of St. John. 

* Lily Lake is about 1 M. from King Square, and is reached by cross- 
ing t!ie Valley and ascending Mount Pleasant. Tbie road which turns to 
the right from Owens Art School conducts past several villas and rural 
estates. From its end a broad path diverges to the r., leading in a few 
minutes to the lake, a beautiful sheet of water surrounded by high I'ocky 
banks. The environs are thickly studded Avith clumps of arbor-vit£B and 
evergreens, among which run devious rambles and pathways. No houses 
or other signs of civilization are seen on the shores, and the citizens wish 
to preserve this district in its primitive beauty by converting it into a pub- 
lic park. The water is of rare purity, and was used for several years to 
supply the city, being pumped up by expensive machinery. This is a 
favorite place for skating early in the season, and- at that time presents a 
scene of great activity and interest. A pleasant pathway leads on one 
side to the Lily Lalce Falls, Avhich are attractive in time of high w^ater. 

The Marsh. E.oad is the favorite drive for the citizens of St. John, and 
presents a busy scene on pleasant Sundays and during the season of sleigh- 
ing. It is broad, firm, and level, and follows the (supposed) ancient bed 
of the St. John River. At IJ M. from the city the Rural Cemetery is 
reached (only lot-owners are admitted on Sunday). This is a pleasant 
ground occupying about 12 acres along a cluster of high, rocky knolls, 
and its roads curve gracefully through an almost unbroken forest of old 
(but small) evergreen trees. The chief point of interest is along Ocean 
Avenue, where beneath uniform monuments are buried a large number 
of sailors. IJ M. beyond the Cemetery the Marsh Road passes the Three- 
Mile Hi-use and Moosejjath Park, a half-mile course which is much used 
for horse-racing, especially during the month of August. 3-4 M. farther 
on (with the Intercolonial Railway always near at hand) the road reaches 
the Torryhurn House, near the usual course for boat-racing on the broad 
Kennsbecasis Bay. The course of this estuary is now followed for 2 M., 
with the high cliff called the Minister's Face on the farther shore. Pass- 
ing several country-seats, the tourist arrives at Rothesay, prettily situated 
on the Kennebecasis. This village is a favorite place of summer residence 
for families from the city, and has numerous villas and picnic grounds. 
The facilities for boating and bathing are good. Near the railway station 
is Rothesay Hall, a summer hotel, accommodating 30-40 guests ($8-10 
a week). Tliere are pleasant views from this point, including the broad 
and lake-like Kennebecasis for many miles, the palisades of the Minister's 
Face, and the hamlet of Moss Glen. 

Loch Lomond is about 11 M. N. E. of St. John, and is a favorite resort 
for its citizens. Many people go out to the lake on Saturday and remain 
there until Monday morning. The road crosses the Marsh Bridge and 
passes near the Silver Falls, a pretty cascade on Little River (whence the 



THE ENVIRONS OF ST. JOHN. Route 2. 23 

city draws its water supply). There are two small hotels near Loch 
Lomond, of which Bunker's is at the lower end and Dalzell's is 3-4 M. be- 
yond, or near the head of the First Lake. These waters are much re- 
sorted to by trout-fishers, and the white trout that are found near Dalzell's 
Lake House are considered a delicacy. Boats and tackle are furnished 
at the hotels; and there is good shooting in the vicinity. The shores con- 
sist, for the most part, of low rolling hills, covered with forests. The First 
Lake is 4 x ^ M. in area, and is connected by a short stream with the 
Second Lake, which is nearly 2 M. long, and very narrow. The Third 
Lake is smaller than either of the others. 

" An elevated ridge of hard-wood land, over which the road passes near the nar- 
rowest part, afforded me from its sunmiit a view of the lower lake, which would not 
suffer in comparison with many either of our English or our Scottish lakes. Its 
surface was calm and still ; beyond it rose a wooded ridge of rounded hills, purpled 
by the broad-leaved trees which covered them, and terminated at the foot of the 
lake by a lofty, so-called Lion's Back, lower considerably than Arthur's Seat, yet 
still a miniature Ben Lomond." — Prof. Johnston. 

Ben Lomond, Jones, Taylor's, and other so-called lakes (being large forest-ponds) 
are situated in this neighborhood, and afford better fishing facilities than the much- 
visited waters of Loch Lomond. Both white and speckled trout are caught in great 
numbers from rafts or floats on these ponds; and Bunker's or Dalzell's affords a 
favorable headquarters for the sportsman, where also more particular information 
may be obtained. 

The Penitentiary is a granite building 120 ft. long, situated in an in- 
walled tract of 18 acres, on the farther side of Courtenay Bay. The Poor 
House is a spacious brick building in the same neighborhood. The road 
that passes these institutions is prolonged as far as Mispeck, traversing a 
diversified country, and at times affording pretty views of the Bay of 
Fundy. Mispeck is a small marine hamlet, 10 M. from St. John. 

There is an excellent drive, over a good highway, from St. John to the 
pleasant scenery of the Kennebecasis, by the Sand-Point road. 

The * Suspension Bridge is about 1^ M. from King Square, and the 
distance may be traversed by omnibuses (or in part by horse-cars) passing 
through the North End and under Fort-Howe Hill (whence a good 
view of the city is afforded). The bridge crosses the rocky gorge into 
which the wide waters of the St. John River are compressed, at a height 
of nearly 100 ft. above low water. The rush of the upward tide, and the 
falls which become visible at low tide, fill the stream with seething eddies 
and whirls, and render navigation impossible. At a certain stage of the 
flood-tide, and for a few minutes only, this gorge may be passed by vessels 
and rafts. A splendid steel cantilever railway bridge spans the river 
immediately above the Suspension Bridge. 

The St. John River is over 450 M. long, and, with its many tributaries, drains a 
vast extent of country. Yet, at this point, where its waters are emptied into the 
harbor, the outlet of the river is narrowed to a channel which is in places but 450 
ft. wide, with cliffs of limestone 100 ft, high hemming it in on either side. The stream 
rushes through this narrow pass with great impetuosity, and its course is further 
disturbed by several rocky islets. The tides in the harbor rise to a height of 22-26 



24 Route %. THE ENVIRONS OF ST. JOHN. 

ft. , and rush up the river with such force as to overflow the falls and produce level 
water at flood-tide. The bridge was built in 1852 by an American engineer, and cost 
$ 80,000. It is 640 ft. long and contains 570 M. of wire, supported on 4 slender but 
solid towers. 

Over the head of the bridge, on the Carleton shore, is the ProrAncial 
Lunatic Asylum^ an extensive brick building with long wings, situated in 
pleasant grounds. Its elevated situation renders it a prominent object in 
approaching the city from almost any direction. The building was erected 
in 1848, and accommodates 400 patients. From this vicinity, or from the 
bridge, are seen the busy manufacturing villages about Indiantown and 
Point Pleasant, most of which are engaged in the lumber business. 

On the summit of the highest hill in Carleton is a venerable and pic- 
turesque stone tower, which gives an antique and feudal air to the land- 
scape. It is known as the Martello Tower, and was built for a harbor- 
defence at the time when this peculiar kind of fortification was favored 
by the British War Office. Many of these works may be seen along the 
shores of the British Isles, but they are now used (if used at all) only as 
coast-guard stations. The tower in Carleton is under the charge of a sub- 
officer, and near by are seen the remains of a hill-battery, with a few old 
guns still in position. The * view from this point is broad and beautiful, 
including St. John, with the spires of Trinity and the Cathedral most 
prominent, Portland and the Fort Howe Hill, the wharves of Carleton and its 
pi-etty churches, the harbor and shipping, the broad Bay of Fundy, ex- 
tending to the horizon, and in the S. the blue shores of Nova Scotia (the 
North Mt.), with tne deep gap at the entrance to the Annapolis Basin, 
called the Digby Gut. 

The streets of Carleton are as yet in a transition state, and do not invite 
a long sojourn. On the hill near the Martello Tower is the tall and grace- 
ful Church of the Assumption, with pleasant grounds, in M'hich is the 
fine building of the presbytery. Below this point is the Convent of St. 
Vincent, S. of which is seen the spire of St. Jude's Episcopal Church. 

The Fern Ledges are about 1 M. from Carleton, on the shore, and are much 
visited by geologists. They consist of an erratic fragment of the Old Red Sandstone 
epoch, and are covered with sea-weed and limpets. On clearing awaj- the weeds and 
breaking the rock, the most beautiful impressions of ferns and other cryptoganious 
plants are found. 

The Mahogany 1 Road affords a fine drive along the Bay shore, with a 
succession of broad marine views. It is gained by crossing the Suspen- 
sion Bridge and passing the Insane Asylum. About 4 M. from the city is 
the Four-Mile House, ^ favorite objective point for drives. The road is 
often followed as far as Spruce Lake, a fine sheet of water 6 M. long, and 
situated about 7 M. from St. John. Perch are found here in great num- 
bers, but the facilities for fishing are not good. The Avater supply of the 
suburb of Carleton is drawn from this lake. 

1 Mahogany, a popular adaptation of the Indian word Mnnawagonish, applied to the 
neighboring bay. 



CAMPOBELLO. Route 3. 25 

3. St. John to Eastport and St. Stephen. — Passaniaquoddy 

Bay. ('5'^'^ p^^fi^ 30 b.) 

The commodious vessels of the luternatioaal Steamship Company leave theRGecl''s 
Poiut Wharf, at St. Johu, every Moudaj', Wednesday, aud Friday, at 7.25 A.M., and 
reach Eastport (6'» M. di.-taut) before noon. A couuectiouis made there with 

a smaller steamboat, wbieli ascends Passamaquoddy Cay and the St. Croix lliver to 
St. Andrews and St Stephen. 

The Shore Line Railway runs from St. John to St. Steplien, 82 miles 
W., and it is hoped that it may be extended down through Maine to Ban- 
gor, crossing th>- frontier at Calais, and running around through the coast 
counties. It is not yet perfect in route and equipment, and is content with 
running in a very leisurely way down this picturesque and thinly settled 
coast. The localities which it appri aches are more particularly described 
on pages 31, 32, 33, 34, and 35 of this book. 

Stations. — St John to Spruce Lake, 7 M ; Musquash, 9; Lancaster, 16; 
Lepreaux, 24; New River, 29; Fennfield, 36 5 St. Ueorge, 47; Bonny River, 58; 
Dyer's, 62 ; Oak Bay, 67 ; St. Stephen, 82. 

After leaving St. John, the steamer runs S. W. into the Bay of Fundy, 
and soon passes Split Eock, and stretches across to Point Lepreau. The 
peculiarities of the coast, which is always visible (in clear weather) on the 
N., are spoken of in Eoute 5, and are thus epitomized by Mr. Warner : 
" A pretty bay now and then, a rocky cove with scant foliage, a light- 
house, a rude cabin, a level land, monotonous and without noble forests, — 
this was New Brunswick as we coasted along it under the most favorable 
circumstances." 

After passing the iron-bound islets called the Wolves (where the Neto 
England Avas wrecked in 1872), the steamer runs in towards the West 
Isles, whose knob-like hills rise boldly from the blue waters. Sometimes 
she meets, in these outer passages, great fleets of fishing-boats, either 
drifting over schools of fish, or, with their white and red sails stretched, 
pursuing their prey. If such a meeting occurs during one of the heavy 
fogs which so often visit this coast, a wonderfully weird effect is caused 
by the sudden emergence and disappearance of the boats in the dense 
white clouds 

Soon after passing the White Horse islet, the steamer enters, the Eastern 
Passage, and runs to the S. W. into Friar's Road. On the r. is Deer 
Isle, a rugged island, 7 M. long by 8 M. wide, with a poor soil and no 
good hai-bors. There are about 1,600 inhabitants on this island, and it is 
suiTOunded by an archipelago of isolated rocky peaks. The shores attain 
an elevation of 300 ft., and from some of the higher hills are gained beau- 
tiful panoramic views of the Passamaquoddy Bay, on one side, and the 
Bay of Fundy, on the other. 
o 



26- Routes. EASTPORT. 

On the other side are the grandly picturesque headlands of Campobello, 
the island which has recently become so well known as an American sum- 
mer-resort, particularly affected by the best people of Boston and Cam- 
bridge. A more thorough account of this locality is found on page 30. a, 
hereinafter. 



The earliest settlement on the Bay was established about 1770, by the Campo- 
bello Con.pany, and was located at Harbor dc Lute, on Campobello Island It was 
named Warrington, but the Welchpool settlement has long since surpassed it. The 
island was for some time the property of Capt. Owen, of the Royal Navy, to whom 
the residents paid tenants' dues. At certain stages of the tide, Eastport can only 
be approached by passing around Campobello, concerning which Mr. Warner in- 
dulges in the following pleasantry : " The possession by the British of the island of 
Campobello is an insufferable menace and impertinence. I write with a full knowl- 
edge of what war is. We ought to instantly dislodge the British from Campobello. 
It°entirely shuts up and commands our harbor, — one of our chief Eastern har- 
bors and war stations, where we keep a flag and cannon and some soldiers, and 
where the customs officers look out for smuggling. There is no way to get into our 
own harbor, except in favorable circumstances of the tide, without begging the 
courtesy of a passage through British waters. Why is England permitted to stretch 
along down our coast in this straggling and inquisitive manner ? She might almost 
as well own Long Island. It was impossible to prevent our cheeks mantling with 
shame as we thought of this, and saw ourselves, free American citizens, landlocked 
by alien soil in our own harbor. We ought to have war, if war is necessary to pos- 
sess Campobello and Deer Islands, or else wc ought to give the British Eastport. I 
am not sure but the latter would be the better course." 



Eastport {The Quoddy, a new and comfortjible hotel, with 65 chambers) 
is an American border-town on the const of Maine, and has 3,738 in- 
habitants and 8 churches. It is built on the slope of a hill at rhe E. 
end of Moose Island, in Passamaquoddy Bay, and is engaged in the fish- 
eries and the coasting-trade. Over the village are the ramparts of Fort 
Sullivan, a post of the United States, commanding the harbor with it.s 
artillery. Eastport is much visited in snmmer for the sake of the salt- 
water fishing and the unique marine scenery in the vicinity, and has sev- 
eral reputable boarding-houses. It is connected with the mainland by a 
bridge, over which lies the road to the Indian village. Eastport is the 
most convenient point from which to reach Campobello, -Grand JManan 
(see Route 4), and the adjacent islands. A steam-ferry runs hence in 3 M. 
to Lubec ( Lubec House, Cobscook Hotel), a picturesque marine village to- 
wards Quoddy Head, with advantages for stammer residents. TJiis pleasant 
little place is decaying slowly, having lost over 400 inhabitants between 
1860 and 1870. The present population is a little over 2,000. Lubec is 
1 M. ftirther E. than Eastport, and is therefore the easternmost town of 
the United States. The purple cliffs of Gi-and Manan are seen from 
Quoddy Head. 



EASTPORT. Routes. 27 

In 1684 the Passamaquodcly islands were granted by the King of France to Jean 
Sarreau de 8t Aubin. In the summer of 1704 the few French settlers about Passa- 
uiaquoddy Ray were plundered by an expedition under Col Church, consisting of 
600 Massachusetts soldiers, escorted by the men-of-war Jersey, 48, and Gos//orl, 32- 
They ascended the St. Croix as far as the head of navigarion, then returned and 
crossed the bay to ravage the Minas settlements. Tliey visited Moose Island and 
the adjacent main, and carried off all the settlers as prisoners. Eighteen years later 
a Boston ship was captured by the Indians among these islands, but was retaken by 
its crew when a fair wind arose In 1744 Massachusetts declared war against the 
Indians on this bay and on the St. John liiver; and in 1760 the tribes sued for 
peace, sending hostages to Boston. In 1734 Gov. Belcher (of Mass.) visited the 
bay, and in 1750 and 1762 its shores and islands were I'egularly surveyed. 

During the AVar of the R,evolution the Passamaquoddy Indians were loyal to 
the United States, and declined all offers from the British agents. The boundary 
question began to assume great importance after the close of the war. The treaty 
stipulated that the St. Croix River should form the frontier; but Massachusetts, 
supported by the Indians, claimed that the Magaguadavic was the true St. Croix ; 
■while Great Britain asserted and proved that the outlet of the Schoodic Lakes was 
the veritable river. The islands were surrendered to Britain : but Moose, Dudley, 
and Frederick Islands were restored to the United States in 1818. 

Eastport was founded about 1784, by fishermen from the coast of Essex County, 
Mass., who settled here on account of the facilities for catching and curing fish. In 
1808 the walls of Fort Sullivan were i-aised, and a detachment of troops was sta- 
tioned there. In 1813 the valuable British vessel, the Eiiza Ann, was captured by 
the privateer Timothy Pickering and sent into Eastport. She was followed by 
H. M. S. Martin, whose commander demanded her surrender, on pain of destroying 
the town. The citizens refused to release the prize, and the Martin opened fire on 
Eastport, but was soon driven away by the guns of the fort. July 11, 1814, a Brit- 
ish fleet appeared off the town, and informed the commander that if he did not haul 
down his flag within five minutes they would bombard the town. The flag came 
down, the garrison laid down their arms, and the hostile fleet, headed by the lianii- 
lies, 74, anchored off the town. British martial law was enforced here for the next 
four years, after which the place was restored to the United States. 



The river-steamboat, in ascending the bay, runs for some distance 
between Deer Isle and Moose Island. At about 5 M. from Eastport, 
Pleasant Point (known to the Indian.? as Sybaik) is seen on the 1. Here 
is the chief settlement of the Passamaquoddy Indians, who were driven 
from the peninsula of St. Andrews nearly a century ago, and received 
their present domain from the American government. They are about 400 
in number, and draw an annuity and a school-fund from the Republic. 

They are the remnant of the ancient Openango tribe of the Etchemin nation, and 
they cling tenaciously to the faith delivered unto them of old by the Jesuits. Their 
church is dedicated to St. Anne, and is served by Indian deacons ; and the pictu- 
resque cemetery is in the same vicinity. They support themselves by hunting, fish- 
ing, and basket-making, and their favorite amusement is dancing, for which they 
have built a hall. There are scarcely any pure-blooded Indians here, but the 
adulteration has been made with a choicer material than among the other tribes, 
since these are mostly French half-breeds, in distinction from the negro half-breeds 
of the lower coasts. Many years ago there was a controversy about the chieftaincy, 
in consequence of which a portion of the tribe seceded, and are now settled on the 
Schoodic Lakes. 

The name Passamaquoddy is said to be derived from Pe.smo-acac//e, " pollock- 
place " Others say that Quoddy means ''pollock"; but Father Vetromile, the 
.scholarly Jesuit missionary, claims that the whole word is a corruption of the Indian 
Peskamaquontik, derived from Peskadaminkkanti, a term which signifies "it goes 
up into the open field." 



28 Route 4. GRAND MANAN. 

As the bay is entered, above Pleasant Point, the West Isles are seen 
opening on the r., displaying a great variety of forms and combinations. 
On the 1. are the pleasant shores of Perry, and ftir across, to the r., are the 
highlands about the Magaguadavic River. After passing Navy Island, the 
boat rounds in at St. Andrews. 

St. Andrews, the St. Croix River, and St. Stephen, see pages 33-36. 

4. Grand Manan. 

This " paradise of cliffs " is situated off Quoddy Head, about 7 M. from the 
Maine coast, and pertains to the Province of New Brunswick. It is easily reached 
from Eastport and St. John, with which it has a mail communication. The 
summer climate would be delicious were it not for the fogs ; and it is claimed that 
invalids suffering from gout and dyspep.«ia receive much benefit here (vei-y likely 
from the enforced abstinence from rich food). The brooks and the many fresh- 
water ponds afford fair trouting and bird-shooting, and a few deer and rabbits are 
found in the woods. There are no bears nor reptiles on the island. There is a 
small inn at Grand Harbor, bat the sojourner will prefer to get board in some of 
the private houses. Neat rooms and simple fare may there be obtained for $4-7 a 
week. 

" As we advanced, Manan gradually rose above the waves and changed its aspect, 
the fiat-topped purple wall being transmuted into brown, rugged, perpendicular 
cliffs, crowned with dark green foliage. Passing, as we did, close in by the extreme 
northern point, we were impressed by its beauty and grandeur, which far exceeds 
even that of the cliffs at Mount Desert. 

" As a place of summer resort, Grand Manan is in some respects unequalled. At 
certain seasons the fog is abundant, yet that can be endured. Here the opportuni- 
ties for recreation are unequalled, and all persons fond of grand sea-shore views 
may indulge their taste without limit. The people are invariably kind and trust- 
worthy, and American manners and customs prevail to such an extent that travel- 
lers at once feel at home." (De CosrA.) 

The island of Grand Manan is 22 M. long and 3-6 M. wide, and lies in 
the mouth of the Bay of Fundy, whose powerful tides sweep impetuously 
b}' its shores. It has about 2,700 inhabitants, who dwell along the road 
Avhich connects the harbors on the E. shore, and are famous for their dar- 
ing and expertuess in the fisheries. They have 10 schools, 8 churches (5 
Free-Will Baptist, and 2 Church of England) ; w^hile the advantages of 
free-trade, insignificant taxation, government-built roads, and complete 
seif-legislation, give reason for the apostrophe, *' Happy Mananites, who, 
free from grinding taxation, now rove out from rock-bound coves, and 
quarry at will in the silvery mines of the sea! " The harbors on the E. 
shore afford safe shelter for small vessels, and are connected Avith the 
great cliffs on the W. by narrow roads through the woods. The fisheries 
of cod, herring, and haddock are very extensive in this vicinity, and form 
the chief resource of the people, who are distinguished for the quaint sim- 
plicity which usually pertains to small and insulated mai'itime communi- 
ties. Grand Manan has been for many years a favorite resort for Amer- 
ican marine painters, wdio find excellent studies in its picturesque cliffs 
and billowy seas. It was visited b}^ Champlain in 1605, but was occupied 
only by the Indians for 180 years after. Col. Allan, the American com- 
mander in E. Maine during the Revolution, held the island with his Indian 



GRAND MANAN. Route 4- 29 

auxiliaries, but it was finally ceded to Great Britain. After the war it 
was settled by several Loj^alists from Massachusetts, chief among whom 
was Moses Gerrish. A recent writer demands that the island be fortified 
and developed, claiming that its situation, either for commerce or war, 
is strategically as valuable as those of the Isle of Man, Guernsey, and 
Jersey, and that it would make a fine point of attack against Portland 
and the coast of Maine. 

Grand Harbor is the chief of the island hamlets, and is situated on the 
safe and shallow bay of the same name. It has an Episcopal church of 
stone and two or three stores, besides a small inn. Off shore to the S. E. 
lie Ross, Cheyne, and White Head Islands, on the latter of which Audu- 
bon studied the habits of the herring-gulls, in 1833. To the E. are the 
rock-bound shores of Nantucket Island, and on the S. are the Grand 
Ponds. 

The South Shore is reached by a good road leading down from Grand 
Harbor. At 5 M. distance is the narrow harbor of Seal Cove, beyond 
which the road lies nearer to the sea, affording fine marine views on the 
]., including the Wood Islands and the Gannet Rock Lighthouse, 9-10 
M. at sea. 4 M. beyond Seal Cove the road reaches Broad Cove, whence 
a path leads across the downs for about 2 M. to the high and ocean- 
viewing cliffs of S. W. Head. Among the rugged and surf-beaten rocks 
of this bold promontory is one which is called the Southern Cross. About 
the S. W. Head is a favorite resort and breeding-place of the gulls, whose 
nests are made in the grass. A forest-path leads N. to Bradford's Cove, 
on the W. shore, a wide bight of the sea in which the ship Mavourneen 
was wrecked. 

The NorHh Shore. The road from Grand Harbor to Whale Cove is 7 - 8 
M. long, and is firm and well-made. 14 M, N. of Grand Harbor, Wood- 
ward's Cove is passed, with its neat hamlet, 4 M. beyond which is Flagg's 
Cove. Sprague's Cove is a pretty fishing-hamlet on the S. side of Swal- 
low-Tail Head, where "everything appears to have been arranged for 
artistic effect. The old boats, the tumble-down storehouses, the pic- 
tui'esque costumes, the breaking surf, and all the miscellaneous para- 
phernalia of such a place, set off as they are by the noble background 
of richly-colored cliffs, produce an effect that is as rare as beautiful." 
Swallow-Tail Head is a fan-shaped peninsula, surrounded by wave-worn 
cliffs, and swept by gales from every quarter. On its outer point is a 
lighthouse which holds a fixed light (visible for 17 ]\I ) 148 ft. above 
the sea. 

Whale Cove is on the N. E. shore, and is bordered by a shingle-beach 
on which are found bits of porphyry, agate, jasper, and other minerals. 
" Here the view is surprisingly fine, the entire shore being encircled by 
immense cliffs that rise up around the border of the blue waves, with a 
richness of color and stateliness of aspect that cannot fail to impress the 



30 Route .5. GRAND iMANAN. 

beholder On the E. side is Fish Head, and on the W. Eel Brook and 

Northern Head, the latter extending out beyond its neighbor, and be- 
tween are the bine sky and water." On the melancholy cliffs at Eel 
Brook Cove the ship Lord Ashburton was wrecked, and nearly all on 
boai-d w^ere lost (21 of them are buried at Flagg's Cove). Beyond this 
point, and near the extreme northci'n cape, is the Bishop^s Head, so called 
because of a vague profile in the face of the cliff. 

The W. coast of Grand Manan is lined with a succession of massive cliffs, 
which appear from West Quoddy like a long and unbroken purple wall. 
These great precipices are 3 - 400 ft. high (attaining their greatest eleva- 
tion at the N. end), and form noble combinations of marine scenery. A 
cart-track leads across the island from near Woodward's Cove to the ro- 
mantic sceneiy about Dark Cove ; near which is Money Cove, so named 
because search has been made there for some of Capt. Kidd's buried 
treasures. To the N. is Indian Beach, where several lodges of the Fassa- 
maquoddy tribe pass the summer, attending to the shore fishery of por- 
poises. Still farther N. are the rocky palisades and whirling cm-rents of 
Long's Eddy. 

'* When the cliff is brought out on such a stupendous scale as at Grand Manan, 
"with all the accessories of a wild ocean shore, the interest horomes absorbing. The 
other parts of the island are of course invested with mvich iiiterest. The low eastern 
shore, fringed with small islands and rocks, affords manj picturesque sights. In a 
pleasant daj' a walk southward has man}- charms. The bright sky, the shingle 
beach, the picturesque boats, and blue land-locked bays continually enforce the 
admiration of an artistic eye, and allure the pedestrian on past cape, cove, and 
reach, until he suddenly finds that miles of gi'ound intervene between him and his 
dinner." (De Costa.) 

" Grand Manan, a favorite summer haunt of the painter, is the very throne of 
the bold and I'omantic. The high precipitous shores, but for the woods which beau- 
tify them, are quite in the style of Labrador." (L. L. Noble ) 



Charlevoix speaks of an old-time wonder which seems to have passed away from 
the.se shores : " It is even asserted that at | of a league off" Isle Menane, which serves 
as a guide to vessels to enter St. John's River, there is a rock, almost always cov- 
ered by the sea, which is of lapis-lazuli. It is added that Commander de Razilli 
broke off a piece, which he sent to France, and Sieur Deuys, who had seen it, says 
that it was valued at ten crowns an ounce." 



"But, interesting as are all parts of this picturesque island, the climax of solitary 
wildoess and grandeur is to be found only in the 'Gi-eat (or Gull) Cliffs,' at Southern 
Head. Lauding from the Eastport steamer, either at Flagg's or at Woodward's Cove, 
let us charter an open vehicle and ride down the island. The smooth brown road 
skirts along the E. shore for the most part, showing us in succession the half-dozen 
peaceful fishing-hamlets which contain its entire population, with their seven neat 
churches and their remarkably handsome and commodious sehoolhouscs. After 3 
hrs. delightful drive, we arrive at ^ Harrey's,' a very slnall but uio-t home- 
like cottage inn. Alighting here, let us take the picturesque path that loads to 
the' Great (or Gull) Cliffs.' For the first i M. the path takes us acro.ss elevated 
pasture-land, showing us the open sea upon three sides. For another quarter it 
plunges into a dense forest, and presently descends to the edge of the water, which 
it reaches at a little stony level known as ' Southern Heud Beach.' Cro.ssiug this, 
and skirting the S. W. coast, we soon commence rising with the rising shore, until 
at the end of a short mile we emerge from the siirubbevy to find ourselves on the 
top of ' llay Point,' gazing perpendicularly dowu at the sea, which dashes, at the 



CAMPOBELLO. Route 78. 30 a 

base of the 3liff over which we lean, some 250 feet below ! A few rods further on, 
and we come to the new Southern Head Liglithouse. B'rom hence lor a mile fur- 
ther we pace alouy: tlio deeply indented ed,i;e of this dizzy height, as upon a loi'ty 
espltiuade, enjoying its solitary grandeur, enhanced by the wild sci-eauis of hun- 
dreds of circling sea gulls, until at last we arrive opposite the ' Old Maid.' " 

A stanch steamboat runs between Eastport and Grand Manan, con- 
necting with the International steamships from Boston at Eastport, and 
crossing to the island in 2 hrs. There is a good pier at Flagg's Cove 
(North Head). Two small but comfortable hotels have been erected near 
Xi rth Head (the Marble-Ridge House); and Grand Manan has latterly 
grown rapidly in public favor. A submarine cable runs hence to Eastport. 
There are 5 telegTaph-offices on the island. There are also several livery 
stables, and good roads. Complete immunity from hay-fever is enjoyed 
here. Myriads of gulls and stormy petrels breed on the adjacent islets. 

78, Campobello. 

Small steamboats run from Eastport to Campobello hourly. 

The O^ven is an Eesthetic summer-hotel, composed of the old Owen mansion, 
devoted to office, billiard-room kitchen, and dining-room, and the main building, 
a huge modern erection, containing parlors and chambers, and connected with the 
old mansion by a long open corridor. The surrounding grounds are pleasantly laid 
out, and contain the old porter's lodge, sun-dial. Lovers' Lane, and the Admiral's 
hawthorn hedges. 

The Tyn-y-Coedd (House in the Wood) is another large summer-hotel, per- 
taining to the Campobello Company, and devoted mainly to the accommodation of 
femiiies, being quieter and more secluded than the Owen. 

Campobello is an island 8 M. by 3 in area, lying off the Bav of Fundy, 
and pertaining to the Province of Xew Brunswick. It has 1,16.0 inhabi- 
tants, most of whom live in two villages, — Wclchjwol, on a prett}^ harboi 
to the N., and Wilson's Beach, a populous fishing-settlement on the S. 
shore, settled by squatters, in defiance of the Owens, who frequently 
burned their houses and schooners, but were finalh- obliged to allow them 
to stay. The fine old Owen roads across the island have been extended 
by new highways opened by ihe Campobello Company, and afford beauti- 
ful drives across the breezy uplands, through leagues of silent evei'green 
forests, and out on .sea-beaten promontories. There are a few profitable 
farms on the island, and minerals are found in the hills and glens; but the 
chief source of income is the fishing business. 

The Episcopal Church is ultra-Anglican, with its vicar praying 

for the Queen and all the Royal Family, with the usual English intonation ; 
its great chancel-carpet, embroidered by the ladies of New Brunswick, with 
the three feathers of the Prince of Wales; and its rich altar-cloths, pre- 
sented by Sister Portia, Admiral Owen's granddaughter. The only other 
church on the island is Baptist. The chief local holidays are the Queen's 
Birthday and Dominion Day (July 1). 

Glea Severn (the ancient Herring Cove) is a lovely cove on the outer 



30 h Route 78. CAMPOBELLO. 

jhore, with brilliant-hued pebbles, craggy headlands, and a contiguous 
lake of fresh water. Friar's Head., within IJ M. of the Owen, is a rocky 
pillar in the sea, off cliffs 146 ft. high, and badly battered by artillery. 
Eastern Head, Harbor de Lute, the lightliouses at the ends of the island, 
and other interesting points, are visited by summer-sojourners. The west- 
ern side of Campobello fronts on the beauties of Passamaquoddy Bay, 
around which appear Lubec, Eastport, and other white villages, with the 
purple hills of New Brunswick in the distance. 

Campobello, the ancient Passaviaquoddy Island, was granted by the British 
Crown to Admiral William FitzwiDiam Owen in 1767, and that gentleman and his 
heirs, of a noble naval family, occupied the domain for moi-e than a hundred years. 
The Admiral built a quarter deck over the rocks, on which he used to promenade 
in full uniform. He «-as buried by candle-light, in the churchyard of the little 
Episcopal church, where his descendants have since followed him. There are num- 
berless quaint legends of the old regime here ; of Sir Robert Peel's visit, and the 
advent of British frigates ; of mysterious wrecks, pirates, apparitions, and other 
marvels. 

After Admiral Owen died, the estate fell to his son-in-law, Captain Robinson, of 
the Royal Navy, who thereupon assumed the Owen name and settled upon the island. 
There was great excitement here in 1866, when many armed Irish patriots came to 
Eastport. apparently with a design of invading Campobello, and twisting the tail of 
the British lion. The island was nearly deserted by its inhabitants ; British frig- 
ates and American cutters cruised in the adj^tcent waters ; St. Andrews and St. 
Stephen were garrisoned by British troops; and General Meade occupied Eastport 
with a detacliment of United States regulars. The last of the Owens moved to Eng- 
land, tired of the monotonous life of the old manor-house, and in 1880 Campobello 
was purchased by a syndicate of Boston and New York capi'^alists, to be made into a 
summer- resort. Besides the great hotels, many summer-cottages and villas are being 
erected here by well-known families from Boston, Cambridge, and other cities. 

The new development of this remote island as a summer-resort has been 
rapid and secure, and already Camfiobello bids fair to become a formidable 
rival of Mount Desert, in a fashionable point of vieAv, although its scenery 
is in almost every way inferior. The novel and original architecture and 
equipments of the great hotels, and the attractiveness of their grounds and 
surroundings combine with the insular and provincial quaintnesses of the 
islanders to make a sojourn here very interesting. 

The Tyn-y-Mais (" House in the Field") is the latest built of the great 
hotels of Campobello. 

5. St. John to St. Andrews and St. Stephen. ~ Passama- 
quoddy Bay, 

The steamer leaves the Reed's Point Wharf every Thursday and Saturday, at 8 
A. M., and reaches St. Stephen before dark She returns from St. Stephen every 
Monday and Friday morning. Fares, St. John to St. George, $1.75, to St. An- 
drews, If? 1.50 ; to St. Stephen, ^ 1.75. This is uot a permanent route, and is liable 
to cliauge or discontinuance. 

Diil. trains from St. John, Fredericton, and all points east, ^ west, and nortu U' 
St. Andrews and St. Stephen. 



BAY OF FUNDY. Routed. 31 

After leaving the harbor of St. John the steamer runs S. W. by W. 9^ 
M., passing the openings of Manawagonish Bay and Pisarinco Cove. The 
course is laid well out in the Bay of Fundy, which " wears a beautiful 
aspect in fine summer weather, — a soft chalky hue quite different from 
the stern blue of the sea on the Atlantic shores, and somewhat approach- 
ing the summer tints of the channel on the coast of England." Beyond 
the point of Split Rock, Musquash Harbor is seen opening to the N. It is 
a safe and beautiful haven, 2 M. long and very deep, at whose head is the 
pretty Episcopal village of Musquash (Musquash Hotel), with several lum- 
ber-mills. About two centuries ago a French war-vessel was driven into 
this harbor and destroyed by a British cruiser. From Split Rock the 
course is W. \ S. for 1\\ M. to Point Lepreau, passing the openings of 
Chance Harbor and Dipper Harbor, in which are obscure marine hamlets. 
In the latter, many years ago, the frigate Plumper was wrecked, with a 
large amount of specie on board. The harbor is now visited mostly by 
lobster-fishers. Point Lejjreau is a bold and tide-swept promontory, on 
which are two fixed lights, visible for 18 and 20 M. at sea. 

The traveller will doubtless be amazed at the rudeness and sterility of these frown- 
ing shores. " Two very different impressions in regard to the Province of New 
Brunswick will be produced on the mind of the stranger, according as he contents 
himself with visiting the towns and inspecting the lands which lie along the sea- 
board, or ascends its rivers, or penetrates by its numerous roads into the interior of 
its more central and northern counties. In the former case he will feel like the 
traveller who enters Sweden by the harbors of Stockholm and Gottenburg, or who 
sails among the rocks on the western coast of Norway. The naked cliffs or shelving 
shores of granite or other hardened rocks, and the unvarying pine forests, ji waken 
in his mind ideas of hopeless desolation, and poverty and barrenness appear neces- 
sarily to dwell within the iron-bound shores But on the other hand, if the 

stranger penetrate beyond the Atlantic shores of the Province and travel through 
the interior, he will be struck by the number and beauty of its rivers, by the fertility 
of its river islands and intervales, and by the great extent and excellent condition 
of its roads." (Prof. J. F. W. Johnston, F. R. S.) 

From Point Lepreau the course is laid nearly W. for 16 ^ M. to Bliss 
Island, crossing the bight of Mace's Bay, a wide and shallow estuary in 
which are two fishing-hamlets. The Saturday steamer stops on this reach 
at Beaver Harbor, a place of 150 inhabitants. S. of this harbor, and seen 
on the 1. of the course, are the five black and dangerous islets called the 
Wolves, much dreaded by navigators. A vessel of the International Steam- 
sliip Company was wrecked here. One of the 

Wolves bears a revolving light. 111 ft. high, and visible for 16 M. 

The steamer now rounds Bliss Island (which has a fixed red light), and 
to the N. is seen the entrance to V Etang Harbor, a deep and picturesque 
inlet which is well sheltered by islands, the large.st of which is called Cai- 
tiff. A few miles S. W. are seen tlie rolling hills of Campobello; Deer 
Island is nearer, on the W. ; and the bay is studded with weird-looking 
huramocky islands, — the Nubble, White, and Spruce Islands, the grim 
trap-rock mamelon of White Horse, and many other nameless rocks. 
They are known as ihe Wtst Isles, and most of them are inhabited by 
hard-working fishermen . 



32 Route 5. ST. GEORGE. 

St. George (three inns), a village of 1,200 inhabitants devoted to the 
lumber and granite trades, is at the head of the tide, 4 M. from the ship- 
harbor below, and stands on both sides of the Magaguadavic, at the 
Lower Falls, where the river is compressed into a chasm 30 ft. wide, and 
falls about 50 ft. These falls in several steps furnish a water-power un- 
surpassed in Canada, and along the sides of the gorge, clinging to the 
rocks like eagles' nests, are several mills in which lumber and granite are 
manufactured. Geologists have found in this vicinity marked evidences of 
the action of icebergs and glaciers. The gorge through which the waters 
rush with an almost Niagara roar has been caused by some convulsion of 
nature, which in its mighty throes rent the cliffs asunder, giving vent to 
what must have been a great lake above. This district has become cele- 
brated for its production of a fine granite of a rose-red color which receives a 
high polish, and is extensively used for ornamental columns and monu- 
ments. It is pronounced by competent judges to be superior to4he Scotch 
granite of Peterhead (popularly called "Aberdeen Granite"), and is 
beautifully tinted. The construction of the Shore Line Eailwny 
affords improved facilities for visiting this interesting locality. 

" The Tillage, the cataract, the lake, and the elevated wilderness to the N., render 
this part of the country peculiarly picturesque; indeed, the neighborhood of St. 
George, the Digdeguash, Chamcook, and the lower St. Croix, present the traveller 
with some of the finest scenery in America." (Dr. Gesner.) 

L,ake Utopia is picturesquely situated in a deep and sheltered depression, 
along whose slopes ledges of red gn.nite crop out. It is about 1 M. from St. 
George,^- and 6 M. long, and connects with the Magaguadavic River 3 M. above 
the village, by a natural canal 1 M. long, which is well bordered by magnificent 
forest trees, and furnishes a beautiful resort for boating parties, sportsmen, and 
anglers en route, to the Lake. The earliest pioneers found the remains of an ancient 
and mysterious temple, all ti'aces of which "have now passed a waj'. Here also was 
found a slab of red granite, bearing a large bas-relief of a human head, in style re- 
sembling an Egyptian sculpture, and having a likene?s to Washington. This re- 
markable medallion has been placed in the Natural History Museum at St. John. 
For nearly 40 years the Indians and lumbermen near the lake have told marvellous 
stories of a marine prodigy called " the Monster of Utopia," which dwells in this 
fair forest-loch. His last appearance was in 1867, when several persons about the 
shores claimed to have seen furious disturbances of the waters, and to have caught 
momentary glimpses of an animal 10 ft. thick and 30 ft long. The lake abounds in 
silvery-gray trout, and its tributary streams contain many brook-trout and smelt. 

Among the hills along the valley of the Magaguadavic River are the favorite haunts 
of large numbers of Virginian deer. Moofe were formerly abundant in this region, 
and it is but a few years since over 400 were killed in one season, for the sake of their 
hides. This noble game animal has been nearly exterminated by the merciless set- 
tlers, and will soon become extinct in this district. 

The Magaguadavic Kiver (an Indian name meaning "The River of the 
Hills •') rises in a chain of lakes over 80 M. N W., within a short portage of tlie 
Sheogomoc River, a tributary of the upper St. .T( hn. Tniyer.^iug the groat Lake 
of Magaguadavic it descends through an uuinhalntcd ami barren highlar.d region, 
tersely described by an early pioneer as " a scraggl\ IhiIc " aMucli of its lower valley 
is a wide intervale, which is supposed to have been an ancient lake-bottont. The 
river is followed closely by a rugged road, which leads to the remote Harvey and 
Magaguadavic settlements. 

After leaving the port of St. George, the steamer runs S. W. across 

Passamaquoddy Bay, with the West Isles and the heights of Deer Island 

on the S., and other bold hummocks on either side. On the N. are the 



ST. ANDREWS. Routed. 33 

estuaries of the Digdeguasli and Bocabec Rivers, and the massive ridge 
of the Chamcook Mt. 

St. Andrews, the capital of Charlotte 

County, is tinely situated on a peninsula at the mouth of the St. Croix 
River, which is here 3 M. wide. It has about 1,800 inhabitants, and a few 
quiet old streets, surrounded by a broad belt of farms. The town was 
founded about a century ago, and soon acquired considerable commercial 
importance, and had large fleets in its harbor, loading with timber for 
Great Britain and the West Indies. This era of prosperity was ended by 
the rise of the town of St. Stephen and by the operation of the Reciprocity 
Treaty, and for many years St. Andrews has been retrogx-ading, until now 
the wharves are deserted and dilapidated, and the houses seem antiquated 
and neglected. It has recently attracted summer visitors, on account of 
the pleasant scenery and the facilities for boating and fishing. 

The new Hotel Algonquin is one of the handsomest summer-resorts on 
the Atlantic coast, and occupies Iiigh ground near St. Andrews, overlook- 
ing a vast expanse of Passamaquodd}' Bay. It is visited by many distin- 
guished Americans and Canadians every season. Fogs are very 
rare; summer nights are cool; and the environs ai's lovelv. The town 
is laid out in square blocks, and the streets are wide and kept in good 
order. The roads are excellent for driving, and from many points give 
picturesque views. The public buildings are the court-house, jail, rec- 
ord office, and marine hospital; and there are a number of neat private 
residences. 

Of churches it has Presbyterian, Methodist, 
Baptist, Roman Catholic, and Church of England. The "Argyll," a 
large structure, with rooms for 200 guests, was opened iti 1881 as a 
summer-hotel. It is pleasantly located on elevated ground, and con- 
venient to the beaches, where the facilities for sea-bathing are unrivalled. 

Trains run to and from St. Andrews, connecting; 

■with trains for Woodstock, Houlton, St. John, Bangor, Portland, and Boston. 
Steamboats run daily between St. Andrews, Calais, Eastport, and Campobello, 
connecting at Eastport with steamers for St. John, Grand Manan, Portland, and 
Boston. 

The Chamcook Mt. is about 4 M. IST. of St. Andrew, and its base is 
reached by a good road (visitors can also go by railway to the foot of the 
mountain). It is often ascended by parties for the sake of the view, 
which includes ''the lovely Passamaquoddy Bay, with its little islands 
and outline recalling recollections of the Gulf of Naples as seen from the 
summit of Vesuvius, whilst the scenery toward the N. is hilly, with 
deep troughs containing natural tarns, where trout are plentiful." 

As the steamer swings out into the river, the little ship-building village 
of Robbinston is seen, on the American shore. On the r, the bold bluffs of 



34 Routes. ST. CROIX RIVER. 

Chamcook Mt. are passed, and occasional farm-houses ai'e seen along the 
shores. 5-6 M. above St. Andrews, the steamer passes on the E. side of 
Doucet's Island, on which a lighthouse has been erected by the Ameri- 
can government. W. of the island is the village of Red Beach, with its 
plaster-mills, and on the opposite shore is the farming settlement of Bay 
Shore. 

In the year 1604 Henri IV. of France granted a large part of America to Pierre du 
Guast, Sieur de Monts, and Governor of Pons. This tract extended from Phila- 
delphia to Quebec, and was named Acadie, which is said to be derived from a local 
Indian word. De Monts sailed from Havre in April, with a motley company of im- 
pressed vagabonds, gentlemen-adventurers, and Huguenot and Catholic clergymen, 
the latter of whom quarrelled all the way over. After exploring parts of Nova 
Scotia and the Bay of Fundy, the voyagers ascended the Passamaquoddy Bay and 
the river to St. Croix Isle, where it was determined to found a settlement. Bat- 
teries were erected at each end, joined by palisades, within which were the houses 
of De Monts and Champlain, workshops, magazines, the chapel, and the barracks of 
the Swiss soldiery. But the winter soon set in with its intense cold, and the rav- 
ages of disease were added to the miseries of the colonists. 35 out of 79 men died 
of the scurvy during the winter ; and when a supply-ship arrived from France, in 
June, the island was abandoned. 

"It is meet to tell you how hard the isle of Sainte Croix is to be found out to 
them that never were there ; for there are so many isles and great bays to go by 
(from St. John) before one be at it, that I wonder how one might ever pierce so fiir 
as to find it. There ai-e three or four mountains imminent above the others, on the 
sides ; but on the N. side, from whence the river runneth down, there is but a sharp 
pointed one, above two leagues distant. The woods of the main land are fair and 
adm.irable high, and well grown, as in like manner is the grass Now let us pre- 
pare and hoist sails. M. de Poutrincourt made the voyage into these parts, with 
some men of good sort, not to winter there, but a,s it were to seek out his seat, and 
find out a land that might like him. AVhich he having done, had no need to sojourn 
there any longer." Late in the year, " the most urgent things being done, and 
hoary snowy father being come, that is to say. Winter, then they were forced to 
keep within doors, and to live every one at his own home. During which time our 
men had three special discommodities in this island : want of wood (for that which 
was in the said isle was spent in buildings), lack of fiesh water, and the continual 
watch made by night, fearing some surprise from the savages that had lodged them- 
selves at the foot of the said island, or some other enemy. For the malediction and 
rage of many Christians is such, that one must take heed of them much more than 
of infidels." (Lescarbot's Novvelle France.) 

In 1783 the river St. Croix was designated as the E. boundary of Maine, but the 
Americans claimed that the true St. Croix was the stream called the Magaguadavic. 
It then became important to find traces of De Monts's settlement of 180 years pre- 
vious, as that would locate the true St. Croix River. So, after long seai-ching among 
the bushes and jungle, the boundary-commissioners succeeded in finding remnants 
of the ancient French occupation on Neutral (Doucet's) Island, and thus fixed the 
line. 

About 10 M. above St. Andrews the river deflects to the W., and to the 
N. is seen the deep and spacious * Oak Bay, surrounded by bold hills, and 
forming a beautiful and picturesque prospect. It is supposed that the 
French explorers named the St. Croix River from the resemblance of its 
waters at this point to a cross, — the upright arm being formed by the 
river to the S. and Oak Bay to the N., while the horizontal arm is outlined 
by the river to the W. and a cove and creek on the E. At the head of the 
bay is the populous farming-village of Oak Bay, with three churches. 

Rounding on the 1. the bold bluff called Devil's Head (from one Duval, 
who formerly lived there), the course is laid to the N. W., in a narrow 



ST. STEPHEN. Routed. 35 

channel, betvreen sterile shox-es. 2-3 M. above is the antiquated marine 
liamlet called The Ledge (1. bank), most of whose inhabitants are depend- 
ent on the sea for their livinc;- 4 M. above, the steamer reaches St. Stephen. 
St. Stephen (Queen Hotel) is an active and enterprising provincial town, 
at the head of navigation on the St. Croix River, opposite the American city 
of Calais, and the "W. terminus of the Grand Southern Railway (see page 
25) from St. John (see also page 30 b). The population is 3,000, with 6 
churches, 1 newspaper, and 2 banks. The business of St. Stephen is 
mostly connected with the manufacture and shipment of lumber. The 
falls of the river at this point give a valuable water-power, which will 
probably be devoted to general manufacturing purposes after the lumber 
supply begins to fail. A covered bridiie connects St. Stephen with Calais 
(The American House ; St. Croix Exchange), a small city of the State of 
Maine, with 6,000 inhabitants, 7 churches, 2 weekly papers, and 2 banks. 
Although under different flags, and separated by lines of customs-ofQcers, 
S:. Stephen and Calais form practically but one community, with identi- 
cal pursuits and interests. Their citizens have always lived in perfect 
fraternity, and formed and kept an agreement by which they abstained 
from hostilities during the War of 1812. At that time the authorities also 
restrained the restless spirits from the back country from acts of violence 
across the borders. 2-3 M. above is another Canado-American town, 
with large lumber-mills at the falls, which is divided by the river into 
Milltown-St. Stephen and Milltown-Calais. Travellers who cross the river 
either at Calais or Milltown will have their baggage looked into by the 
customs-officers, squads of whom are stationed at the ends of the bridges. 

A Railway runs N. from St. Stephen to Houlton and 
Woodstock (see Route 6). Calais is connected with the Sclioodic Lakes hv railway, 
a^id with Eastport by stages. The U. S. Mail-stage runs daily to Bangor, 95 M. W. 
(fare, S 7-50), passing through a wide tract of unoccupied wilderness. The steam- 
boat leaTes Calais or St. Stephen daily in summer, and semi weekly in winter, for 
Eastport, where it connects with the International steamships for Portland and 
Boston (see also Route 3, and New England). Fares, Calais to Portland, 

®4.50 ; to Boston, by water, §5.50 ; to Boston, by rail from Portland, $ 7. 

The Schoudic Lakes. 
A railway runs 21 M. N. W. from Calais to Lew ey's Island (2 inns), 
in Princeton, whence the tourist ma}- enter the lovely and picturesque 
Sclioodic Lakes. The steamer Gipsey carries visitors 12 M. up the lake to 
Grand Lake Stream, one of the most famous fishing-grounds in America. 
The trout in Lewey's Lake have been nearly exterminated by the voracious 
pike, but the upper waters are more carefully guarded, and contain perch, 
pickerel, land-locked salmon, lake-trout, and fine speckled-trout. The 
Grand Lake Sti'eam is 3-4 M. long, and connects the Grand and Big 
Lakes with its rapid waters, in which are found many of the famous sil- 
very salmon-trout. The urban parties who visit these forest-lakes usually 
engage Indian guides to do the heavy work of portages and camp-build- 



36 Route 6. SCHOODIC LAKES. 

ing, and to guide their course from lake to lake. There is a large village 
of the Passamaquoddy tribe near the foot of Big Lake. A two hours' 
portage leads to Grand Lake, a broad and beautiful forest-sea, with 
gravelly shores, picturesque islets, and transparent waters. The cry of 
the loon is often heard here, and a few bear and deer still lui-k along the 
shores. From Grand Lake a labyrinth of smaller and yet more remote 
lakes may be entered ; and portages conduct thence to the navigable 
tributaries of the Machias and Penobscot Rivers. 

" One of the most picturesque portions of the western Schoodic region is Grand 
Lake. This noble sheet of wateris broken here and there byislets,and surrounded, 
even to the water's edge, with forests of pine and hard wood, whilst its bottom is 
covered with granitic bowlders, which, in combination with drift, are spread far and 
wide among the arboreal vegetation around." 

" While the fog is lifting from Schoodic Lake, 
And the white trout are leaping for flies, 
It 8 exciting sport those beauties to take, 
Jogging the nerves and feasting the eyes." 

Genio C. Scott. 

6. St. Andrews and St. Stephen to Woodstock and Houlton. 

Distances. — St. Andrews to Chamcook, 5 M. ; Bartlett's. 11 ; Waweig, 13 ; 
Roix Road, 15; Hewitt's, 19; Rolling Dam, 20; Dumbarton, 24; Watt Junction, 
27 (St. Stephen to Watt Junction, 19) ; Lawrence, 29 ; Barber Dam, 34; McAdam 
Junction, 43 ; Deer Lake, 59 ; Canterbury. 65 ; Eel River, 75 ; Wickham, 80 ; Debec 
Junction, 90 (Houl on, 98); Hodgdon, 98 ; Woodstock, 101. 

The country traversed by this line is one of the most irredeemably des- 
olate regions in North America. The view from the car-windows pre- 
sents a continual succession of dead and dying forests, clearings bristling 
with stumps, and funereal clusters of blasted and fire-scorched tree-trunks. 
The traces of human habitation, which at wide intervals are seen in this 
gloomy land, are cabins of logs, where poverty and toil seem the fittest 
occupants; and Nature has withheld the hills and lakes with which she 
rudely adorns other wildernesses. The sanguine Dr. Gesner wrote a vol- 
ume inviting immigration to New BrunsAvick, and describing its domains 
in language which reaches the outer verge of complaisant optimism ; but 
in presence of the lands between the upper St. John and St. Stephen his 
pen lost its hyperbolical fervor. He says: " Excepting the intervales of 
the stream, it is necessary to speak with circumspection in regard to the 
general quality of the lands. Many tracts are fit for little else but pas- 
turage." This district is occupied, for the most part, by the remains of 
soft-wood forests, whose soils are always inferior to those of the hard- 
wood districts. 

P'or a short distance beyond St. Andrews the railway lies near tlie 
shores of Passamaquoddy Bay, affording pleasant views to the r. Tlien 
the great mass of Chamcook Mt. is passed, with its abrupt sides and 
rounded summit. Waweig is between Bonaparte Lake and Oak Bay 
(see page 34). About 7 M. beyond, the line approaches the Digdeguash 



ST. JOHN TO BANGOR. Route 7. 37 

River, wliicli it follows to its source. At Watt Junction the St. Stephen 
Branch Railway comes in on the 1., and the train passe? ori to McAdani 
Junction, where it intersects the Canadian Pacific Railway, (page 38). 
There is a restaurant at this station, and the passenger will have time to 
dine while the train is waiting for the arrival of the trains from Bangor 
and from St. John. 

The forest is again entered, and the train passes on for 16 M. until it 
reaches the lumber-station at Deer Lake. The next station is Canter- 
bury, near the beautiful Skiff Lake. Running N. W. for 10 M., the Eel 
River is crossed, and at Dehtc Junction the passenger changes for Wood- 
stock. A train runs thence 8 M. N.W, to Houlton (Snell House), the shire- 
town of Aroostook County, Maine, with 4,000 inhabitants, 2 papers, opera 
house, electric lights, Avater-works, and a noble view from the old fort on 
Garrison Hill. The other train runs N. E. down the valley of the South 
Brook, and in about 6 M. emerges on the highlands above the valley of 
the St. John River. For the ensuing 5 M. there are beautiful views of the 
river and its cultivated intervales, presenting a wonderful contrast to the 
dreary region behind. The line soon reaches its terminus at the pretty 
village of Woodstock (see Route 11). 

7. St. John to Bangor. 

Distances. — St. John; Carleton, | M. ; Fairville, 4; South Bay, 7; Grand 
Bay, 12; Westfield, 16: Nerepis,20; Welsford, 26; Clarendon, 30; Gaspereaux. 
33; Enniskillen, 36; Hoyt, 39; Blissville, 42; Fredericton Junction, 46; Tracy, 
49; Cork, 61; Harvey, 66; Magaguadavic , 76; McAdam Junction 85; St. Croix, 
91; Vanceboro', 92; Jackson Brook, 112; Danforth, 117; Bancroft, 126; King- 
man, 139; Mattawamkeag, 147; Winn, 150; Lincoln Centre, 159; Lincoln, 161, 
Enfield, 170; Passadumkeag, 175; Olamon, 179; Greenbush, 182 : Costigan , 187', 
Milford, 192 ; Oldtown, 193 ; Great Works, 194: Webster, 196; Orono, 197; Basin 
Mills, 198 ; Veazie. 201 ; Bangor, 205. (Newport, 2-33 : Waterville, 260 ; Augusta, 
281; Brunswick, 315; Portland, 343; Portsmouth, 395; Newburyport, 415; Bos- 
ton, 451.) 

The traveller takes the train at the terminal station. The line ascends 
through the North End, giving extensive views. The St. John River ia 
crossed near the Falls, on the great and lofty cantilever bridge of steel, 
built in lfe85. Formerly passengers were ferried across from Carleton to St. 
John. The train soon reaches Fairville, a growing town near the Provincial 
Lunatic Asylum and the Suspension Bridge. There are numerous lumber- 
mills here, in the coves of the river. The train sweeps around the South 
Bay on a high grade, and soon reaches the Grand Bay of the St. John 
River, beyond which is seen the deep estuary of the Kennebecasis Bay, 
with its environment of dark hills. The shores of the Long Reach are fol- 
lowed for several miles, with beautiful views on the r. over the placid 
river and its vessels and villages (see also page 41). To the W. is a 
sparsely settled and rugged region in which are many lakes, — Loch 
Alva, the Robin Hood, Sherwood, and the Queen's Lakes. 



38 Route?. CHIPUTNETICOOK LAKES. 

The line leaves the Long Reach, and turns to the N. W. up the valley 
of the Nerepis River, which is followed as far as the hamlet of Welsford 
(small inn). The country now grows very tame and uninteresting, as the 
Douglas Valley is ascended. Clarendon is 7 M. from the Clarendon Set- 
tlement, with its new homes wrested from the savage forest. From Gas- 
pereaux a wagon conveys passengers to the South Oromocto Lake, 10-12 
M S. W., among the highlands,' a secluded sheet of water about 5 M. long, 
abounding in trout. Beyond the lumber station of Enniskillen, the train 
passes the prosperous village of Blissville ; and at Fredericton Junction a 
connection is made for Fredericton, about 20 M. N. 

Tracy's Mills is the next stopping-place, and is a cluster of lumber-mills 
on the Oromocto River, which traverses the village. On either side are 
wide tracts of unpopulated wilderness; and after crossing the parish of 
New Maryland, the line enters Manners Sutton, pass(>,s the Cork Settle- 
ment, and stops at the Harvey Settlement, a rugged district occupied by 
families from the borders of England and Scotland. To the N. and N. W. 
are the Bear and Cranberry Lakes, affording good fishing. A road leads 
S. 7-8 M. from Haiwey to the Oromocto Lake, a fine sheet of water 
nearly 10 M. long and 3-4 M. wide, where many large trout are found. 
The neighboring forests contain various kinds of game. Near the N. W. 
shore of the lake is the small hamlet of Tweedside. The Bald Mountain, 
"near the Harvey Settlement, is a great mass of porphyry, with a lake 
(probably in the crater) near the summit. It is on the edge of the coal 
measures, where they touch the slate." 

Magaguadavic station is at the foot of Magaguadavic Lake, which is 
about 8 M. long, and is visited by sportsmen. On its E. shore is the low 
and bristling Magaguadavic Ridge; and a chain of smaller lakes lies to 
the N. 

The train now runs S. W. to McAdam Junction (restaurant in the sta- 
tion), where it intersects the railway from St. Andrews to Woodstock. 6 
M. beyond McAdam, through a monotonous v,'ilderness, is St. Croix, on 
the river of the same name. After crossing the river the train enters the 
United States, and is visited by the customs-officers at Vanceboro' ( Vance- 
boro^ House). This is the station whence the beautiful lakes of the upper 
Schoodic may be visited. 

The Cliiputnetiroolt T akes are about 45 M. in length, in a N. W. course, 
find are from }^i to 10 M. in width. Their navigation is very intricate, by reason of 
tlie multitude of islets and islands, narrow passages, coves, and deep inlets, which 
diversity of land and water affords beautiful combinations of scenery. The islands 
are covered with cedar, hemlock, and birch trees; and the bold highlands which 
shadow the lakes are also well wooded. One of the most remarkable features of the 
scenery is the abundance of bowlders and ledges of fine white granite, either seen 
through the transparent waters or lining the shore like massive masonry. "Uni- 
versal gloom and stillness reign over these lakes and the forests around them." 

Beyond Vanceboro' the train passes through an almost unbroken wilder- 
ness for 55 M., during the last 16 M. following the course of the Matta- 



ST. JOHN RIVER. Routes. 39 

wamkeag River. At Mattawamkeag the Canadian Pacific Railway goes 
oft to Moosehead Lalce and Montreal. The Maine Central Railway fol- 
lows the Penobscot River, traversing a succession of thinly populated 
lumbering towus. Forty-five niilt-s below Mattawamkeag, the Penobscot 
is crossed, and the train reaches Oldtown (two inns), a place of about 
4,000 inhabitants, largely engaged in the lumber business. The traveller 
should notice here the immense and costly booms and mills, one of which 
is the largest in the world and has 100 saws at work cutting out planks. 

On an island just above Oldtown is the home of the Tarratine Indians, formerly 
the most powerful and warlike of the Northern tribes. They were at tirst well-dis- 
posed towards the colonists, but after a series of wrongs and insults they took up 
arms in 1678, and inflicted such terrible dam^e on the settlements that Maine be- 
came tributary to them by the Peace of Casco. After destroying the fortress of Pem- 
aquid to avenge an insult to their chief, St. Castin, they remained quiet for many 
years. The treaty of 1720 contains the substance of their present relations with the 
State. The declension of the tribe was marked for two centuries ; but it is now 
slowly increasing. The people own the islands in the Penobscot, and have a reve- 
nue of $6 - 7,000 from the State, which the men eke out by working on the lumber- 
rafts, and by hunting and fishing, while the women make baskets and other trifles 
for sale. The island- village is without streets, and consists of many small houses 
built around a Catholic church. There are over 400 persons here, most of whom 
are half-breeds. 

Below Oldtown the river is seen to be filled with booms and rafts of 
timber, and lined with saw-mills. At Orono is the State Agricultural 
College; and soon after passing Veazie the train enters the city of 
Bangor. 

For descriptions of Bangor, the Penobscot River, and the route to Bos- 
ton, see Sweetser's New England. 

8. St. Jolm to Ff edericton. — The St. John River. 

The Steamers David Weston and Acadia, ot the Union Line, leave St. John (Indian- 
town) everv morning. See also Iloutes [) and 10. These vessels are comfortably 
fitted up for passengers, in the manner of the smaller boats on the Hudson River 
Dinner is served on bonrd ; aiid Fredericton is reached late in the afternoon. On 
Weane.=^day and Saturday travellers can ascend the river to Hampst^ad, 33 M., and 
return to St. John the same day on the boat bound down, which leaves FrederictOH 
at 8 A. M. 

The scenery of the St. John River is pretty, and has a pleasing pastoral quiet- 
ness. The elements of the landscapes are simple ; the settlements are few and 
small, and at no time will the traveller find his attention violently drawn to any 
passing object. There are beautiful views on the Long Reach, at Belleisle Bay, 
and during the approach to Fredericton, but the prevalent character of the 
scenery is that of quiet and restful rural lands, hy which it is pleasant to drift on 
a balmy summer-day. Certain provincial writers have done a mischief to the St. 
John by bestowing upon it too exti'avagant praise, thereby preparing a disappoint- 
ment for such as believed their report. One calls it " the Rhine of America," and 
another prefers it to the Hudson. This is wide exaggeration ; but if the traveller 
would enjoy a tranquillizing and luxurious journey throug i a ptetty farming coun- 
try, abounding in mild diversity of scenery, he should devote a day to this river. 

Distances. — (The steamboat-landings bear the names of their owners, and the 
following itinerary bears reference rather to the villages on the shores than to the 
stopping-places of the boats.) St. John; Brundage's Point, 10 M. ; Westfield, 17 ; 
Greenwich Hill, 19; Oak Point, 25; Long Reach, 26; Tennant's Cove (Belleisle 
Bay), 29; Wickham, 32; Hampstead, 33; Otnabog, 41; Gagetown, 50; Upper 
Gagetown, 58 ; Maugerville, 72 ; Oromocto, 75 ; Glasier's, 81 ; Fredericton, 86. 

Pares. — St. John to Fredericton, $1. 



40 Routes. KENNEBECASIS BAY. 

This river was called Looshtook (Long River) by the Etchemin Indians, and 
Ouangoudie "by the Micmacs. It is supposed to have been visited by De Monts, 
or other explorers at an early day, and in the commission of the year 1598 to the 
Lieut -General of Acadia it is called La Riviere de la Grande Baie. But no exam- 
ination was made of the upper waters until St. John's Day, 1604, when the French 
fleet under De Moots and Poutrincourt entered the great river. In honor of the 
saint on whose festival the exploration was begun, it was then entitled the St. John. 
After spending several weeks in ascending the stream and its connected waters, the 
discoverers sailed away to the south, bearing a good report of the chief river of 
Acadia. De Monts expected to find by this course a near route to Tadousac, on the 
Saguenay, and therefore sailed up as far as the depth of water would permit. " The 
extent of this river, the fish with which it was filled, the grapes growing on its 
banks, and the beauty of its scenery, were all objects of wonder and admiration." 
At a subsequent day the fierce struggles of the French seigneurs were waged on its 
shores, and the invading fleets of New England furrowed its tranquil waters. 

The St. John is the chief river of the Maritime Provinces, and is over 450 M. 
in length, being navigable for steamers of 1,000 tons for 90 M., for light-draught 
steamers 270 M. (with a break at the Grand Falls), and for canoes for nearly its 
entire extent. It takes its rise in the great Maine forest, near the sources of the 
Penobscot and the Chaudiire ; and from the lake which heads its S. W Branch 
the Indian voyageurs carry their canoes across the Mejarmette Portage and launch 
them in the Chaudiere, on which they descend to Quebec. Flowing to the N. E. 
for over 150 M. through the Maine forest, it receives the Allagash, St. Francis, and 
other large streams ; and from the mouth of the St. Francis nearl.y to the Grand 
Falls, a distance of 75 M., it forms the frontier between the United States and 
Canada. It is the chief member in that great system of rivers and lakes which has 
won for New Brunswick the distinction of being " the most finely watered country 
in the world.'" At Madawaska the course changes from N. E to S. E , and the 
sparsely settled N. W. counties of the Province are traversed, with large tributaries 
coming in on either side. During the last 50 M. of its course it receives the waters 
of the gTeat basins of the Grand and Washademoak Lakes and the Belleisle and 
Kennebecasis Bays, which have a parallel direction to the N. E., and afford good 
facilities for inland navigHtion. The tributary streams are connected with those of 
the Gulf and of the Bay of Chaleur by short portages (which will be mentioned in 
connection with their points of departure). 

Immediately after leaving the dock at St. John a tine retrospect is 
given of the dark chasm below, over which the light and graceful suspen- 
sion-bridge and the railway steel cantilever bridge are placed. Running 
up by Point Pleasant, the boat ascends a narrow gorge with high and 
abrupt banks, at whose bases are large lumber-mills. On the r. is Boards 
Head, a picturesque rocky promontory, in whose sides are quarries of lime- 
stone; 3-4 M. above Indiantown the broad expanse of Grand Bay is en- 
tered, and South Bay is seen opening on the I. rear. 

The Kennebecasis Bay is now seen, opening to the N E. This noble 
sheet of water is from 1 to 4 M. wide, and is naA'igable for large vessels 
for over 20 M. It receives the Kennebecasis and Hammond Rivers, and 
contains several islands, the chief of which, Long Island, is 5 M. long, 
and is opposite the village of Rothesay (see page 22). The E. shore is fol- 
lowed for many miles by the track of the Intercolonial Railway. 

The testimony of the rocks causes scientists to believe that the St. John formerly 
emptied by two mouths, — through the Kennebecasis and the Marsh Yalley, and 
through South Bay into Manawagouish Bay, — and that the breaking down of the 
present channel through the lofty lulls AV. of St. John is an event quite recent in 
geological history. The Indians still preserve a tradition that thi.s barrier of hills 
was once unbroken and served to divert the stream. 



LONG REACH. Route S. 41 

On the banks of the placid Ivennebecasis the ancient Micmac legends locate the 
home of the Great Beaver, "feared by beasts and men," whom Glooscap finally 
conquered and put to death. In thi- vicinity dwelt the two Great Brothei-s, Gloos- 
cap and Malsunsis, of unknown origin and invincible power. Glooscap knew that 
his brother was vulnerable only by th-e touch of a fern-root ; and he had told Mal- 
sunsis (falsely) that the stroke of an owUs feather would kill him. It came to pass 
that Malsunsis determined to kill his brother (whether temp ed thus by Mik-o, the 
Squirrel, or by Quah-bcct-e-sis, the son of the Great Beaver, or by his own evil am- 
bition) : wherefore with his arrow he shot Koo-koo-skoos, the Owl, and with one of 
his feathers struck the sleeping Glooscap. Then he awoke, aild reproached Malsun- 
sis, but afterwards told him tiiat a blow from the root of a pine would kill him. 
Then the traitoi'ous man led his brother on a hunting excursion for into the forest, 
and while he slept he smote him with a pine-root. But the cautious Glooscap ai-ose 
unharmed, and drove Malsunsis forth into the forest ; then sat down by the brook- 
side and said to himself, " Naught but a flowering rush can kill me." Musquash, 
the Beaver, hidden among the sedge, heard these words and reported them to Mal- 
sunsis, who promised to do unto him even as he should ask. Therefore did Mus- 
quash say, " Give unto me wings like a pigeon." But the warrior answered, " Get 
thee hence, thou with a tail like a file ; what need hast thou of pigeon-s wings ] " 
and went on his way. Then the Beaver was angry, and went forth unto the camp 
of Glooscap, to whom he told what he had done. And by reason of these tidings, 
Glooscap arose and took a root of fern and sought Malsunsis in the wide and gloomy 
forest ; and when he had found him he smote him so that he fell down dead. " And 
Glooscap sang a song over him and lamented." 

Now, therefore, Glooscap ruled all beasts and men. And there came unto him 
three bi'others seeking that he would give them great strength and long life and 
much stature. Then asked he of them whether they wished these things that they 
might benefit and counsel men and be glorious in battle. But they said, " No; we 
seek not the good of men, nor care we for others." Then he offered unto them suc- 
cess in battle, knowledge and skill in diseases, or wisdom and subtlety in counsel. 
But they would not hearken unto him. Therefore did Glooscap wax angry, and 
said: "Go j'our ways; you shall have strength and stature and length of days." 
And while they were yet in the way, rejoicing, "lo I their feet became rooted to the 
ground, and their legs stuck together, and their necks shot up, and they were 
turned into three cedar-trees, strong and tall, and enduring beyond thedaysof men, 
but destitute alike of all glory and of all use." 

Occasional glimpses of the railway are obtained on the 1., and on the r. 
is the large island of Kennebecasis, which is separated from the Kingston 
peninsula by the Milkish Channel. Then the shores of Land's End are 
passed on the r. ; and on the 1. is the estuary of the Nerepis River. At 
this point the low (but rocky and alpine) ridge of the Nerepis Hills crosses 
the river, running N. E. to Bull Moose Hill, near the head of Belleisle 
Bay. 

The steamer now changes her course from N . W. to N. E , and enters the 
Long Rcacli, a broad and straight expanse of the river, 16 M. long and 
1-3 M. wide. The shores are high and bold, and the scenery has a lake- 
like character. Beyond the hamlets of Westfield and Greenwich Hill, on 
the 1. bank, is the rugged and forest-covered ridge known as the Devil's 
Back, an off-spur of the minor Alleghany chain over the Nerepis Valley. 
Abreast of the wooded Foster's Island, on the E. shore, is a small ham- 
let clustered about a tall-spired church. Caton's Island is just above Fos- 
ter's, and in on the W. shore is seen the pretty little village of Oak Point 
(Lacey's inn), with a lighthouse and the spire of the Episcopal church of 
St, Paul, Farther up is the insulated intervale of Grassy Island, famou? 



42 Routes. BELLEISLE BAY. 

foi' its rich hay, which may be seen in autumn stacked all along the shore. 
The steamer now passes through the contracted channel off Mistaken 
Point, Avhere the river is nearly closed b_y two narrow peninsulas which 
project towards each other from the opposite shores. 

Belleisle Bay turns to the N. E. just above Mistaken Point. The estuarj^ is 
nearly hidden by a low island and b.y a rounded promontory on the r. , beyond which 
the bay extends to the N. E for 12 - 14 M. , with a uniform width of 1 M. It is navi- 
g..ble for the largest vessels, and is bordered by wooded hills. On the S. shore near 
the mouth is Kingston Creek, which leads S. in about 5 M. to Kingston (two 
inns), a sequestered village of 200 inhabitants, romantically situated among the hills 
in the centre of the peninsular parish of Kingston. This peninsula preserves an 
almost uniform width of 5 - 6 M. for 30 M , between the Kennebecasis Bay and river 
on the S. E. and the Long Reach and Belleisle Bay on the N. W. The scenery, 
though never on a grand scale, is pleasant and bold, and has many line water views. 
A few miles E. of Kingston is the i-emarkable lakelet called the Pickivaakeft , occu- 
pying an extinct crater and surrounded by volcanic rocks. This district was origi- 
nally settled by American Loyalists, and for many years Kingston was the capital of 
Kings County. The village is most easily reached from Rothesay (see page 22). 

TennariVs Cove is a small Baptist village at the N. of the entrance to the bay; 
whence a road leads in 5 M. to the hamlet of Belleisle Bay on the N. shore (nearly 
opposite Long Point village) ; from which the bay road runs in 3-4 M. to the larger 
Baptist settlement at Spragg's Point, whence much cord-wood is sent to St John. 
4 M. beyond is Springfield (small inn), the largest of the Belleisle villages, situated 
near the head of the bay, and 7 M. from Norton, on the Intercolonial Railway 
(Route 16). 

At the head of the Long Reach a granite ridge turns the river to the N. 
and N. W. and narrows it for several miles. 4-5 M. above Belleisle Bay 
Spoon Island is passed, above which, on the r. bank, is the shipbuilding 
hamlet of WicTcliam. A short distance beyond, on the W. bank, is Hamp- 
stead, with several mills and a granite-quarry. The shores of the river 
now become more low and level, and the fertile meadows of Long Island 
are coasted for nearly 5 M. This pretty island is dotted with elm-trees, 
and contains two large ponds. On the mainland (W. shore), near its head, 
is the hamlet of Otnabog, at the mouth of a river which empties into a lake 
3 M. long and 1-2 M. wide, connected with the St. John by a narrow 
passage. The boat next passes the Lower Musquash Island, containing a 
large pond, and hiding the oiitlet of the Washademoak Lake (see Route 9). 

" This part of the Province, including the lands around the Grand Lake and along 
the Washademoak, must become a very populous and rich country. A great propor- 
tion of the land is intervale or alluvial, and coal is found in great plenty, near the 

Grand Lake No part of America can exhibit greater beauty or more luxuriant 

fertility than the lands on each side, and the islands that we pass in this distance." 
(McGregor's British America.) 

After passing the Upper Musquash Island, the steamboat rounds in at 
Gagetown (2 inns), a village of 300 inhabitants, prettily situated on the W. 
bank of the river. It is the shire-town of Queen's County, and is the shipping- 
point for a broad tract of forming-country. After leaving this point, tlie 
steamer passes between Grimross Neck (1.) and the level shores of Cam- 
bridge (r.), and runs by the mouth of the Jemseg Kiver. 

About the year 1640 the French seigneur erected at t'le mouth of the Jemseg a 
fort, on whose ramparts were 12 iron guns and 6 " murtherers." It was provided 



MAUGERVILLE. RoiUe 8. 43 

•with a court of guard, stone barracks and magazines, a garden, and a chapel "6 paces 
square, with a bell weighing 18 pounds." In 1654 it was captured by an expedition 
sent out by Oliver Cromwell ; but was yielded up by Sir Thomas Temple to the 
Seigneur de Soulanges et Marson in 1670. In 1674 it was taken and plundered by 
" a Flemish corsair." The Seigniory of Jemseg was granted by the French (h-own to 
the ancient Breton family of Damour des ChafTour. In 1686 it was occupied by the 
seignorial fanuly, and iu 1698 there were 50 persons settled here under its auspices. 
In 1739 the lordship of this district was held by the Marquis de Vaudreuil, who had 
116 colonists iu the domain of Jemseg. In 1692 it was made the capital of Acadia, 
under the command of M. de Villebon ; and after the removal of the seat of govern- 
ment to Fort Xashwaak (Frederic ton), the Jemseg fort suffered the vicissitudes of 
British attack, and was finally abandoned. About the year 1776, 600 Indian warriors 
gathered here, designing to devastate the St. John vallc}', but were deterred by the 
resolute front made by the colonists from the Oromocto fort, and were finally ap- 
peased and quieted by large presents. 

The Jemseg River is the outlet of Grand Lake (see Route 10). Beyond 

this point the steamer runs N. W. by Grimross Island, and soon passes the 

hamlets of Canning (r.) and Upper Gagetown (1.). Above Mauger's Island 

is seen the tall spire of Burton church, and the boat calls at Sheffield, the 

seat of the Sheffield Academy. 

" The whole river- front of the parishes of Maugerville, Sheffield, and Water- 
borough, an extent of nearly 30 M., is a remarkably fine alluvial soil, exactly re- 
sembling that of Battersea fields and the Twickenham meadows, stretching from the 
river generally about 2 M. This tract of intervale, includiag the three noble islands 
opposite, is deservedly called the Garden of New Brunswick, and it is by far the 
most considerable tract of alluvial soil, formed by fresh water, in the Province." 

Above Sheffield the steamer passes Middle Island, which is 3 M. long, 
and produces much hay, and calls at Maugerville, a quiet lowland village 
of 300 inhabitants. On the opposite shore is Oromocto (two inns), the 
capital of Sunbury County, a village of 400 inhabitants, engaged in ship- 
building. It is at the mouth of the Oromocto River, which is navigable 
for 22 M. 

The settlement of Maugerville was the first which was formed by the English on 
the St. John River. It was established in 1763 by families from Massachusetts and 
Connecticut, and had over 100 families in 1775. In May, 1776, the inhabitants of 
Sunbury County assembled at Maugerville, and resolved that the colonial policy of 
the British Parliament was wrong, that the United Provinces wei-e justified in re- 
sisting it, that the county should be attached to Massachusetts, and that men and 
money should be raised for the American service : saying also, " we are Heady with 
our Lives and fortunes to Share with them the Event of the present Struggle for 
Liberty, however God in his Providence may order it." These resolutions were 
signed by all but 12 of the people ; and Massachusetts soon sent them a quantity of 
ammunition. At a later day Col. Eddy, with a detachment of Mass. troops, ascended 
the St. John River to Maugerville, where he met with a warm welcome and was 
joined by nearly 50 men. 

Oromocto was in early days a favorite resort of the Indians, one of whose great 
cemeteries has recently been found here When the hostile tribes concentrated on 
the Jemseg during the Revolutionary War, and were preparing to devastate the 
river-towns, the colonists erected a large fortification near t\\Q mouth of tlae Oromocto, 
and took refuge there. Taey made such a bold front that the Indians retired and 
disbanded, after having reconnoitred the works. 

" The rich meadows are decorated with stately elms" and forest trees, or sheltered 
by low coppices of cranberry, alder, and other native bushes. Through the numer- 
ous openings in the shrubbery, the visitor, in traversing the river, sees the white 
fronts of the cottages, and other buildings ; and, from the constant change of posi- 
tion, in saihng, an almost endless variety of scenery is presented to the traveller's 
eye. During the summer season the surface of the water affords an interesting 



44 RunU 8. FREDERICTON. 

spectacle. Vast rafts of timber and logs are slowly moved downwards by the cur- 
rent. Numerous canoes and boats are in motion, while the paddles of the steamboat 
break the polished surface of the stream and send it rippling to the shore In 
the midst of this laud^cape stands Fredericton, situated on an obtuse level point 
formed by the bending of the river, and in the midst of natural and cultivated 
scenery." (Gesner.) 

Fredericton. 

Hotels. — Queen Hotel ; Barker House, Queen St. , % 2.50 a day. 
St , 3? 1.50 a day ; Long"s Hotel. ^ 1.50 ; Commercial Hotel, and others. 

Stages leave tri-weekly for Woodstock (62 M. : fare, S2.50). 

RaiL\va> s. — to St. John, in 66 M., fare ^ 2. 

to Woodstock (63 M.), Aroostook, Edmundston (176 M ), and Riviere du 
Loup. Fare to Woodstock, $2.00 (pafj:e 50). Canada Eastern Railway, to 

Chatham (116 M.), see page 47. The railway bridge over the St. Joan (finished in 
1888) made possible a union station at Fredericton. 

Steamboats. — Daily to St John, stopping at the river-ports. Fare. .? 1 00. 
In spring, early summer, and autumn, when the river has enough water, the steam- 
boat Florenceville runs from Fredericton 65-70 M. N. W. to Woodstock. 

FREDEKiCTO>f, the Capital of the Province of New BniTiswiclv, is a small 
city pleasantly situated on a level plain near the St. John River. It 
has 6,500 inhabitants, with five newspapers and four banks. It is prob- 
ably the quietest place, of its size, north of the Potomac River. The 
streets are broad and airy, intersecting each other at right angles, and are 
lined with line old shade trees. The city has few manufacturing interests, 
but serves as a shipping-point and depot of supplies for the young settle- 
ments to the N. and W. Its chief reason for being is the presence of the 
offices of the Provincial Government, for which it was founded. 

Queen St. is the chief thoroughfare of the city, and runs nearly parallel 
Avith the river At its W. end is the Government House, a plain and spa- 
cious stone building situated in a pleasant park, and used for the official 
residence of the Lieutenant-Governor of New Brunswick. Nearly in the 
middle of the city, and between Queen St. and the river, are the Military 
Grounds and Parade-ground, with the large barracks (accommodating 
1,000 men), which were formerly the headquarters of the British army in 
this Province. Near the E. end of Queen St. is the Parliament Bmldiny, 
a handsome modern freestone structure, from who^^e top a fine view is 
obtained. It contains the spacious halls of the Lower House, Legislative 
Council, and Supreme Court (with its law librar}-). The Legislative 
Librar}', in a fire-proof building adjacent, contains 15,000 volumes, includ- 
ing Louis Philippe's copy of Audubon's ''Birds" (open during session, 
and on Wednesday afternoons). The chief wealth of Fredericton is em- 
ployed in lumbering, and there are great booms above and below the city, 
with an important British and West-Indian trade. 

* Christ Church Cathedral is a short distance beyond the Parlianient 
Building, and is embowered in a grove of fine old trees near the river 
(corner of Chui'ch and Queen Sts.). It is under the direct care of the 
Anglican Bishop of Fredericton, and its style of construction is modelled 



FREDERICTON. Route 8. 45 

after a certain charming old parish-church in England. The beauty of the 
English Gothic architecture, as here wrought out in fine gray stone, is 
heightened by the picturesque effect of the surrounding trees. A stone 
spire, 178 ft. high, rises from the junction of the nave and transepts. The 
interior is beautiful, though small, and the chancel is adorned with a 
superb window of Newcastle stained-glass, presented by the Episcopal 
Church in the United States. It represents, in the centre, Christ cruci- 
fied, with SS. John, James, and Peter on the 1., and SS. Thomas, Philip, 
and Andrew on the r. In the cathedral tower is a chime of 8 bells, each 
of which bears the inscription : 

" Ave Pater, Rex, Creator, Ave Simplex, Ave Trine, 

Ave Fill, Lux, Salvator, Ave Regnuns in Sublime, 

Ave Spiritus Consolator, Ave Resonet sine tine, 
Ave Beata Unitas. Ave Sancta Trinitas." 

St. Ann's is a pretty Episcopal Church, at the W. end; and in 1883 the 
Baptists and Presbyterians erected fine stone churches. Between Queen 
St. and the river are the substantial Citj^ Hall and Post-Office, ai.d the 
well-equipped Normal School, where the teachers of tlie Province are 
trained. 

The University of Neio Bninsicich is a substantial freestone building, 170 
ft. long and 60 ft. wide, occupying a fine position on the hills which sweep 
around the city on the S. It was established by royal charter in 1828, 
while Sir Howard Douglas ruled the Province; and was for many years a 
source of great strife between the Episcopalians and the other sects, the 
latter making objection to the absorption by the Anglicans of an institu- 
tion which had been paid for by the whole people. It is fairly endowed 
by the Province, and does an important Avork in carrying on the higher 
education of the country, despite the competition of denominational col- 
leges. The view from the University is thus described by Prof. Johnston : 

'• From the high ground above Fredericton I again felt how very delightful it is t# 
feast the eyes, weary of stony barrens and iierpetual pines, upon the beautiful rivcv. 
St John Calm, broad, clear, just visibly flowing on ; full to its banks, and re- 
flecting from its surface the graceful American elms which at intervals fringe its 
shores, it has all the beauty of a long lake without its lifelessness. But its acces- 
sories are as yet chiefly those of nature, — wooded ranges of hiUs varied in outline, 
now retiring from and now approaching the water's edge, with an occasional clear- 
ing, and a rare white-washed house, with its still more rarely visible inhabitants, 

and stray cattle In some respects this view of the St. John recalled to my 

mind some of the points on the Russian river (Neva) : though among European 
scenery, in its broad waters and forests of pines, it most resembled the tamer por- 
tions of the sea-arms and fiords of Sweden and Norway." 

St. ^[nry's and Nasliicaahsis are opposite Fredericton, on the 1. bank (f 
the St. John, and are reached by bridges. Tliey are on the New Bruns- 
Avick Railway (to Woodstock). At Marysville are the great lumber-mills 
and cotton-mills of Alex. Gibson, with the stately church and comfortable 
homes which he has erected for his workmen. Nearly opposite the city 
is seen the mouth of the Nashwaak River, whose valley was settled bv 
disbanded soldiers of ihe old Black Watch (42d Highlanders). 



46 Route 8. FREDEEICTON. 

In the year 1690 the French goTernment sent out the Chevalier de Yillehon as 
Governor of Acadia. When he arrived at Port Royal (Annapolis), his capital, he 
found that Sir William Phipps's New-England fleet had recently captured and de- 
stroyed its fortifications, so he ascended the St. John River and soon fixed his capi- 
tal at Nashwaak, where he remained for several years, organizing Indian forays on 
the settlements of Maine. 

In October, 1696, an Anglo-American army ascended the St. John in the ships 
Arundel, Frovince, and others, and laid siege to Fort Nashwaak. The Chevalier de 
Villebon drew up his garrison, and addressed them with enthusiasm, and the de- 
tachments were put in charge of the Sieurs de la Cote, Tibierge, and Clignancourt. 
The British royal standard was displayed over the besiegers' works, and for three 
dajs a heavy fire of artillery and musketry was kept up. The precision of the fire 
from La Cote's battery dismounted the hostile guns, and after seeing the Sieur de 
Falaise reinforce the fort from Quebec, the British gave up the siege and retreated 
down the river. 

The village of St. Anne was erected here, under the protection of Fort Nashwaak. 
Its site had been visited by De Monts in 1604, during his exploration of the river. 
In 1757 (and later) the place was crowded with Acadian refugees fleeing from the 
stern visitations of angry New England on the Minas and Port Roj^al districts. In 
1784 came the exiled American Loyalists, who drove away the Acadians into the 
wilderness of Madawaska, and settled along these shores. During the following 
year Gov. Carleton established the capital of the Province here, in view of the 

central location and pleasant natural features of the place. Since the formation of 
the Canadian Dominion, and the consequent withdrawal of the British garrison, 
Fredericton has become dormant. 

7 M. above Fredericton is Aukpaqiie, the favorite home-district of the ancient 
Indians of the river. The name signifies " a beautiful expanse of the river caused 
by numerous islands." On the island of Sandous were the fortifications and quar- 
ters of the American forces in 1777, when the St. John River was held by the expe- 
dition of Col. Allan. They reached Aukpaque on the 5th of June, and saluted the 
new American flag with salvos of artillery, while the resident Indians, under Am- 
brose St. Aubin, their "august and noble chief," welcomed them and their cause. 
They patrolled the river with guard-boats, aided the patriot residents on the banks, 
and watched the mouth of St. John harbor. After the camp on Aukpaque had 
been established about a month it was broken up by a British naval force from 
below, and Col. Allan led away about 500 people, patriot Provincials, Indians, and 
their families. This great exodus is one of the most romantic and yet least known 
incidents of the American borders. It was conducted by canoes up the St. John to 
the ancient French trading-post called Fort Meductic, whence they carried their 
boats, families, and household goods across a long portage ; then they ascended the 
rapid Eel River to its reservoir-lake, from whose head another portage of 4 M. led 
them to North Pond. The long procession of exiles next defiled into the Grand 
Lake and encamped for several "days at its outlet, after which they descended the 
Chiputneticook Lake and the St. Croix River, passed into tlie Lower Schoodic I-ake, 
and thence carried their families and goods to the head-waters of the Machias River. 
Floating down that stream, they reached Machias i in time to aid in beating off the 
British squadron from that town. 

1 Machias is said to be derived from the French word Mages (meaning the Magi , and it 
is held that it was discovered by the ancient French explorers on the Festival of the 3Iagi. 



WASHADEMOAK LAKE. Route 9. 47 



From Fredericton to the Miramichi. 

By the Canada Eastern Railway. 

Stations. — (iibson (Fredericton) to Marysville, 3 M. ; Durham, 14; Cross 
Creek, 25 : Hoiestown, 47 ; Doaktowu, 63; Blissfield, 67; Blackville, 87 ; Chatham 
Junction, 105 ; Chatham, 116. 

This route traverses the lonely forest for many leagues, through a thinly 
settled country. To the west are the immense domains 

of tlie Xew Brunswick Land Company, on which a few struggling; settle- 
ments are located. In the earlier days there was a much-travelled route 
between the St. John valley and the Miramichi waters, by way of the 
Nashwaak River, from whose upper waters a portage was made to the 
adjacent streams of the Miramichi (see " Vacation Tourists," for 1862-3, 
pp. 464-474). Forty-seven miles from Fredericton the line reaches Boies- 
town (small inn), a lumbering-village of 250 inhabitants, on the S. W. 
Miramichi River. This place was founded in 1822, by Thomas Boies and 
120 Americans, but has become decadent si_ce the partial exhaustion of 
the forests. 

9. Washademoak Lake. 

c „ .,.>io-'5 no-a«inri'>ll'' rnn from St. John to this point, a di.stance of 60 M. A 
regular line formerly plied on this route, but it. yvas given up some years since. 
Ill l:^90 steum.rs ran from St. Johu to Cole's Islund thrice a weirk. 

The steamboat ascends the St. John River (see page 39) to the upper 
end of Long Island, where it turns to the N. E. in a narrow passage be- 
tween the Lower Musquash Island and the shores of Wickham. On either 
side are wide rich intervales, over which the spring inundations spread 
fertilizing soil; and the otherwise monotonous landscape is enlivened by 
clusters of elms and maples. After following this passage for 1^ M., the 
steamer enters the Washademoak Lake, at this point nearly 2 M. wide. 
The Washademoak is not properly a lake, but is the bi'oadening of the 
river of the same name, which maintains a width of from ^ M. to 2 M, 
from Cole's Island to its mouth, a distance of 25-30 M, It is deep and 
still, and has but little current. In the spring-time and autumn rafts de- 
scend the lake from the upper rivers and from the head-waters of the 
Cocagne, and pass down to St. John. The scenery is rather tame, being 
that of alluvial lowlands, diversified only by scattered trees. There are 
10 small hamlets on the shores, with from 150 to 250 inhabitants each, 
most of them being on the E. shore. The people are engaged in farming 
and in freighting cord-wood to St. John. About 6 M. above McDonald's 
Point, Lewis Cove opens to the S. E., running down for about 3 M. into the 
parish of Wickham ; and 4-5 M. farther on are the Narrows, where the 
lake is nearly cut in two by a bold bluff projecting from the E. shore. 
Cole's Island has about 200 inhabitants, and a small hotel. It is 20 M. 



48 Route 10. GRAND LAKE. 

from Apohaqui, on the Intercolonial Railway. Roads run across the pe- 
ninsula on the N. W. to Grand Lake in 5-7 M. It is 38 M. from Cole's 
Island to Petitcodiac, on the Intercolonial Railway, by way of Brookvale, 
'J'he Forks, and New Canaan. The Washademoak region has no attrac- 
tions for the summer tourist, 

10. Grand Lake. 

The river-steamer leaves St. John (IndiaDtown) on ATednesday and Satur- 

day, for Grind Lake and Salmon River. The distance is 85 M. ; the fare is $1.50. 
She leaves Salmon River on Mo day and Thursday moruings. 

A railway runs from Norton, on the Intercolonial line, to Grand Lake. 

Grand Lake is 30 M. long and from 3 to 9 M. wide. It has a tide of 6 
inches, caused by the backwater of the St. John River, thrown up by the 
high tides of the Bay of Fundy. The shores are low and uninteresting, 
and are broken by several deep coves and estuaries. There are numerous 
hamlets on each side, but they are all small and have an air of poverty. 
It is reasonably hoped, however, that these broad alluvial plains will be- 
come, in a few decades, the home of a large and prosperous population. 

The lands in this vicinity -were granted at an early date to the Sieur de Freneuse, 
a young Parisian, the son of that Sieur de Clignancourt who was so active in settling 
the St. John valley and in defending it against the New-En glanders. On Charle- 
voix's map (dated 1744) Grand Lake is called Lac Freneuse, a.ud a village of the same 
name is indicated as being a few miles to the N. These shores were a favorite camp- 
ing-ground of the ancient Milicete Indians, whose descendants occasionally visit 
Grand Lake in pursuit of muskrats. The lumber business, always baneful to the 
agricultural interests of a new country, has slackened on account of the exhaustion 
of the forests on the Salmon River ; audit is now thought that a farming population 
will erelong occupy the Grand Lake country. 

The steamer ascends the St. John River (see page 39) as far as Gage- 
town, where it makes a brief stop (other landings on the lower river are 
sometimes visited). She then crosses to the mouth of the Jemseg (see 
page 43), where the Jemseg River is entered, and is followed through its 
narrow, tortuous, and picturesque course of 4 M. This is the most inter- 
esting part of the journey. When nearly through the passage the boat 
stops before the compact hamlet of Jemseg, occupjnng the slope of a hill 
on the r. On entering the lake, a broad expanse of still water is seen in 
front, with low and level shores denuded of trees. On the 1. is Scotch- 
town (150 inhabitants), near which is a channel cut through the alluvium, 
leading (in 2 M.) to Maquajnt Lake, Avhich is 5 M. long and 2-3 M. wide. 
This channel is called the Thoroughfare ; is passable by large boats; and 
leads through groves of elm, birch, and maple trees. 1 M. from the W. 
end of Maquapit Lake is French Lake, accessible by another " Thorough- 
fare," and 3-4 M. long, nearly divided by a long, low point. This lake is 
5-6 M. from Sheffield, on the St. John River. 

The channel is marked out by poles rising from the flats on either side. 
(The course of the steamer is liable to variation, and is here described as 
followed by the Editor.) Robinson's Point is first visited, with its white 



GRAND LAKE. Route 11. 49 

Jighthouse rising from the E. sho"e ; and tlie steamer passes around into 
TTV^Ve'.-? Core, where there is a farming settlement of 200 inliulntants. 
Tlience the hike is crossed to the N. to Kcijliole, a curious little harbor 
near the villages of Maquapit and Douglas Harbor. After visiting Mill 
Cove and Wiggin's Cove, on the E. shore, and Young's Cove (2 inns), the 
boat rounds Cumberland Point and ascends the deep Cumberland Bay, at 
whose head is a populous farming settlement. On the way out of the bay- 
Cox's Point is visited, and then the narrowing waters at the head of the 
lake are entered. At Newcasilt and other points in this vicinity, attempts 
have been made at coal-mining. The coal district about the head of Grand 
Lake covers an area of 40 square miles, and the coal is said to be of good 
quality and in thick seams. But little has yet been done in the way of 
mining, owing to the difficulty of transporting the coal to market. 

Soon after passing Newcastle Creek the steamer ascends the N. E. arm, 
rounds a long, low point, and enters the Salmon River. This stream is 
ascended for several miles, amid the depressing intluences of ruined for- 
ests not yet replaced by farms. Beyond Ironbouud Cove and the Coal 
Mines, the boat ties up for the lught at a backwoods settlement, where the 
traveller must go ashore and sleep in a room reserved for wayfarers in an 
adjacent cottage. 

Brigg's Corner is at the head of navigation , and a road runs thence N. E. across 
the wilderness to Richibucto, in 50-60 M. It is stated by good autliorit}' th^t the 
fishing in the !?almon River lias been ruined by the lumber-mills ; but that very 
good sport maj' be found on the Lake Stream, 15-20 M beyond Brigg's Corner. 
Visitors to this district must be provided with full camp-equipage A road also 
leads N. W. from Brigg's Corner (diverging from the Richibucto road at Gaspereau) 
to Blis.sville, on the S. W. Miramichi, in about 40 M. 

U. Fredericton to Woodstock. 



stations. — Gibson ; St Mary's, 1 M ; Douglas, 3; Springhill, 5|; Rockland, 
10; Keswick, 12; Cardigan, 16J ; Lawrence, I7i ; Zealand, 20; Stoncridge, 22^; 
Bumside, 25 ; Upper Keswick, 28i ; Burt Lake, 32 ; Haynesville, 36^ ; Millville, 38i ; 
Nackawic,43; Falls Brook, 48; Woodstock Junction, 52; Newburgh, 57; River- 
side, 60 ; Northampton, 61i. Fare from Fredericton to Woodstock, .f 1.75. 

Beyond Woodstock Junction the Railway runs N. to Ilartland 

(61 M. from Fredericton) and to Florenceville (71 M.), and thence to Tobique and 
the upper St. John valley. 

The traveller crosses the St. John River by the new railway bridge 
from Fredericton to St. Mary's. As the train moves out, very attractive 
3 D 



LO Route 11. FREDERICTON TO WOODSTOCK. 

glimpses of Fredericton are obtained on the 1., and at 2 M. out the Nash- 
waaksis Kivev is crossed. Then the train advances rapidly, and there 
follows a succession of beautiful views (to the 1.) over the wide and placid 
St. John, dotted with numerous large and level islands, upon which are 
clusters of graceful trees. On the farther shore is seen the village of 
Springhill (see page 51) ; and the broad expanse of Sugar Island crosses 
the river a little way above. At about 10 M. from Fredericton the line 
changes its course from W. to N. W., and leaves the St. John valley, 
ascending the valley of the Keswick, — a district which is beginning to 
show the rewards of the arduous labors of its early pioneers. The Keswick 
Valley was settled in 17E3, by the disbanded American-loyalist corps of New 
York and the Royal Guides, and their descendants ai'e now attacking the 
remoter back-country. The Keswick flows through a pleasant region, and 
has bold features, the chief of which is the escarped wall of sandstone on 
the 1. bank, reaching for 8-10 M. from its mouth. From Cardigan station 
a road leads into the old Welsh settlement of Cardigan. 

The line next passes several stations on the old domain of the New Brunswick 
Land Company, an association which was incorporated by royal charter before 1840, 
and 1 urchased from the Crown 550,000 acres in York County. They established 
their ca] ital and chief agency at the village of Stanley, opened roads through the 
forest, settled a large com] any of people from the Isle of Skye uj.ou their lands, and 
expended S 500 ,000 in vain atteni] ts to colonize this district. 

The country now traversed by the line seems desolate and unpromising, 
and but few signs of civilization are visible. This forest-land is left be- 
hind, and the open valley of the St. John is approached, beyond New- 
hurgh. For the last few miles of the journey beautiful views are given 
from the high grades of the line, including the river and its intervales and 
surrounding hills. The St. John River is crossed by a long wooden rail- 
way bridge. 

Woodstocl: (Wilbur House ; Exchange), the capital of Carleton 

County, is situated at the confluence of the St. John and Meduxnekeag 
Rivers, in the centre of a thriving agricultural district. The population is 
over 3,000, and the town is favorably situated on a high bluff above the Si. 
John River. The Episcopal Church of St. Luke and the Catholic Church 
of St. Gertrude are on Main St., where are also the chief buildings of the 
town. The academy called Woodstock College is located here. The 
country in this vicinity is verj^ attractive in summer, and is possessed of a 
rich rural beauty which is uncommon in these Provinces. The soil is a 
calcareous loam, producing more fruit and cereal grains than any other 
partof New Brunswick. The bold blniTs over the St. John are generally well- 
wooded, and the intervales bear much hay and grain. Tlierc are largo saw- 
mills at the month of the ^Meduxnekeag, where the timber wliirh is rut on 
its upper Avaters, in jMaine, is made into lumber. 12 JNI. fnnn Woodstock 



WOODSTOCK. Route 12. 51 

is the American village oT Houlton, the capital of Aroostook County, Maine; 
and the citizens of the two towns are in such close social relations that 
Woodstock bears great resemblance to a Yankee town, both in its archi- 
tecture and its society. 

" Of tluMinality of the Woodstock iron it is impossible to spe.k too highly, espe- 
cially for uiakiuiT ste*'I, aud it is eagerly sought by tiie armor-plate manufacturers in 
England. On six different trials, plates of Woodstock iron were only sUgiitly in- 
dented by an Armstrong shot, which shattered to pieces scrap-iron plates of the best 
quality and of similar thickness. When cast it has a tine silver-gray color, is singu- 
larly close-grained, and rings like steel on being struck. A cubic inch of Wood- 
stock iron weighs 22 per cent more than the hke quantity of Swedish, Russian, or 
East Indian iron." (Hox. Arthur Gordon.) The mines are some distance from 
the village, and their products were uiucii ustd lur tue iJruisli iron-clad frigates. 
They ave now abandoned. 

The Railway runs S. from Woodstock to St. Stephen and St. Andrews (nee 

page 36) ; fare, $2. 1)0 ; _ also, S. E. to Fredericton ; fare, § 1 75. 

Tniins run N. to Grand Falls and Riviere du Loup, and W. to lloulton. Steamers 
run to Frederictoa when the river is high enough. 

12. Fredericton to Woodstock, by the St. Jchn River. 

During the spring and autumn, when there is enough water in the river, this 
route is served by steamboats At other times the journey may be made by the 
mail-stage. The distance is 62 M. ; the fare is .§2.50. The stage is uncovered, and 
hence is undesirable as a means of conveyance except in pleasant weather. Most 
travellers will prefer to pass between Fredericton aud ^Voodstock by the new rail- 
■way (see Route 11). The stage passes up the S. and W. side of the river. The en- 
suing itinerary speaks of the river-villiges in their order of location, without refer- 
ence to the stations of the stages and steamboats. 

Distances. —Fredericton to Springhill, 5 -M. ; Lower French Village, 9; Bris- 
tol (Kingsclear), 16 ; Lower Prince N\"illiam, 21 ; Prince William, 25 ; Dumfries, 32 ; 
Pokiol^ Falls, 39 ; Lower Canterbury, 44; Canterbury, 51 ; Lower Woodstock ; Wood- 
stock, 52. 

On leaving Fredericton, pleasant prospects of the city and its Nash- 
■waak suburbs are afforded, and successions of pretty views are obtained 
over the rich alluvial islands which fill the river for over 7 M., up to the 
mouth of the Keswick River. Springhill (S. shore) is the first village, 
and has about 250 inhabitants, with an Episcopal church and a small inn. 
The prolific intervales of Sugar Island are seen on the r., nearly closing 
the estuary of the Keswick, and the road passes on to the Indian village, 
where reside 25 families of the Milicete tribe. A short distance beyond 
is the Lower French Village (McKinley's inn), inhabited by a farming 
population descended from the old Acadian fugitives. The road and river 
now run to the S W., through the rural parish of Kingsclear, which was 
settled in 1784 by the 2d Battalion of New Jersey Loyalists. Be_yond the 
hamlet of Bristol (Kingsclear) Burgoyne's Ferry is reached, and the scat- 
tered cottages of Lower Queensbury are seen on the N. shore. After 
crossing Long's Creek the road and river turn to the N. W., and soon 
reach the village of Lower Prince William ( Wason's inn). 9 M. S. W. of 
this point is a settlement amid the beautiful scenery of Lahe George, 
where an antimony-mine is being worked ; 3 M. beyond which is Magundy 
(small inn), to the W. of Lake George. 



52 Route 12. FORT MEDUCTIC. 

The road passes on to Prince William, through a parish which was 
originally settled by the King's American Dragoons, and is now occupied 
by their descendants. On the N. shore are the hilly uplands of the parish 
of Queensbury, which were settled by the disbanded men of the Queen's 
Rangers, after the Revolutionary War. Rich intervale islands are seen in 
the river between these parishes. Beyond Dumfries (small hotel) the 
hamlet of Upper Queensbury is seen on the N. shore, and the river sweeps 
around a broad bend at whose head is Pohiok, with large lumber-mills, 
3 M. fi'om Allandale. There is a fine piece of scenery here, where the 
River Pokiok (an Indian word meaning "the Dreadful Place "), the out- 
let of Lake George, enters the St. John. The river first plunges over a 
perpendicular fall of 40 ft. and then enters a fine gorge, 1,200 ft. long, 75 ft. 
deep, and 25 ft. wide, cut through opposing ledges of dark rock. The 
Pokiok bounds down this chasm, from step to step, until it reaches the 
St. John, and affords a beautiful sight in time of high water, although 
its current is often encumbered with masses of riff-i-aff and rubbish from 
the saw -mills above. The gorge should be inspected from below, although 
it cannot be ascended along the bottom on account of the velocity of the 
contracted stream. About 4 M. from Pokiok (and nearer to Dumfries) is 
the pretty highland water of Prince William Lake, which is nearly 2 M. 
in diameter. 

Lower Canterbury (inn) is about 5 M. bej^ond Pokiok, and is near the 
mouth of the Sheogomoc River, flowing out from a lake of the same name. 
At Canterbury (Hoyt's inn) the Eel River is crossed; and about 5 M. be- 
3'Ond, the road passes the site of the old French Avorks of Fort Meductic. 

This fort commanded the portage between the St. John and the route by the upper 
Eel River and the Eel and North Lakes to the Chiputneticook Lakes and Passama- 
quoddy Bay. Portions of these portages are marked by deep pathways worn in the 
rocks by the moccasons of many generations of Indian hunters and Marnors. By 
this route marched the devastating savage troops of the Chevalier de Tillebon to 
many a merciless foray on the New England borders. The land in this vicinity, 
and the lordship of the Milicete town at Meductic, were granted in 1684 to the Sieur 
Clignancourt, the brave Parisian who aided in repelling the troops of Massachusetts 
from the fort on the Jemseg, Hei-e, also, the Indians were 

obhged to make a portage around the Meductic Rapids, and the command of this 
point was deemed of great importance and value. (See also the account of Allan's 
retreat, on page 46.) 

Off this point are the Meductic Rapids, where the steamboats sometimes 
find it difficult to make headway against the descending waters, accel- 
erated by a slight incline. The road now runs N. through the pleasant 
valley of the St. John, Avith hill-ranges on either side. Lower Woodstock- 
is a prosperous settlement of about 500 inhabitants, and the road soon 
approaches the N. B. Railway (see page 37), and runs between that line 
and the river, 

" The approach to Woodstock, from the old church upwards, is one of the plea.s- 
antest drives in the Province, the road being shaded on either side with fine trees, 
and the comfortable fiirm-houses and gardens, the scattered clumps of wood, the 



PLORENCEVILLE. Route IS- 53 

windiugs of the great river, the picturesque kuoll.-J, and the gay appearance of the 
pretty straggHug little town, all giving an air of a long-settled, peaceful, Enylish 
looking country." (Gordon.) 

13. Woodstock to Grand Falls and Riviere du Loup. 

The Railway runs up the valley, from Woodstock to 

Edmundston, through a rather picturesque and diversified country, with charming 
river-views, and furnishing access to very good fishing-grounds. Along the 1'6 M., 
where the St. John forms the international boundary, extending from 'Ik M. above 
Grand Falls to Edmundston, the scenery is very pleasing, with bold hills enclosing 
lake-like reaches of river, gi-aceful islands, and fair meadows. 

Stations. — Woodstock to Upper Woodstock, 2 M. ; Newburgh Junction, 6; 
Hartland, 13; Peel, 17; Florenceville, 23; Kent, 26; Bath, 29 ; Muniac,41; Perth, 
49; Andover (Tobique), 51; Aroostook, 55 (branch hence to Fort Fairfield, 7 M. ; 
E.Lyndon, 14: Caribou, 19; Presque Isle, 31); Grand FaUs, 73; St. Leonard's, 
87 ; Green River, 104 ; St. Basil, 107 ; Edmundston, 113. 

Tt is 90 M. by the Temiscouata i.ailway (finished in 1S88) from Edmundston to 
Riviere du Loup, on the St Lawrence. 

The road from Woodstock to Florenceville is pleasant and in an attrac- 
tive country. "It is rich, English, and pretty. When I say English, 
I ought, perhaps, rather to say Scotch, for the general features are those 
of the lowland parts of Perthshire, though the luxuriant vegetation — 
tall crops of maize, ripening tields of golden wheat, and fine well-grown 
hard-wood — speaks of a more southern latitude. Single trees and clumps 
are here left about the fields and on the hillsides, under the shade of 
which well-looking cattle may be seen resting, whilst on the other hand are 
pretty views of river and distance, visible under fine willows, or through 
birches that carried me back to Deeside." (Hox. Arthur Gordon.) 

The train runs out E. from Woodstock across the St. John valley to 
Newburgh (or Woodstock) Junction, where it turns N. on the main line, 
and runs rapidly through the forest, emerging upon the meadows of the St. 
John, which are followed for a hundred miles. Victoria and ISIiddle 
Simonds (Mills's Hotel) are quiet hamlets on the river, centres of agricul- 
tural districts of 5 - 800 inhabitants each. Florenceville is a pretty village, 
" perched, like an Italian town, on the very top of a high bluff far over the 
river." The district between Woodstock and Wicklow was settled after 
the American Revolution by the disbanded soldiers of the West Inrlia 
Rangers and the Xew Brunswick Fencibles. 

" Between Florenceville and Tobique the road becomes even prettier, 
winding along the bank of the St. John, or through woody glens that 
combine to my eye Somersetshire, Perthshire, and the green wooded part 
of southwestern Germany." There are five distinct terraces along the 
valley, showing the geological changes in the level of the river, 5 M. S. 
W. of the river is Mars Hill, a steep mountain about 1.200 ft. high, which 
overlooks a vast expanse of forest. This was one of the chief points of 
controversy during the old border-troubles, and its summit was cleared by 
the Commissioners of 1794. 



54 Route 13. TOBIQUE. 

From Florenceville the train runs N. 3 M. to Kent, where a road leads 
across in 15 M. to the upper Miramichi waters, whence canoes and fisher- 
men descend the great river, 60 M., to Boiestown (see page 47), through 
rich hill and forest scenery, and witli the best of sahnon and trout fish- 
ing. (Forguides, etc., write to J. Richards & Son, Fredericton, N". B.). 

Beyond the long-drawn town of Kent, the train traverses the pleasant 
(but rather lonely) glens of Muniac, celebrated in Indian tradition; and 
reaches the little village of Perth, on the E. shore of the St. John, with 
a hotel and four or five stores, and mills. The frequent views of the bright 
river, on the left, give an appearance of diversity and cheerfulness to the 
landscape. 

Tobique (7. A. Perley's vm), otherwise known as Andover, is pleasantly 
situated on the W. bank of the St. John, nearly opposite the mouth of the 
Tobiqiie River. It has 400 inhabitants and 2 churches, and is the chief 
depot of supplies for the lumbering-camps on the Tobique River. Nearly 
opposite is a large and picturesque Indian village, containing about 150 
persons of the Milicete tribe, and situated on the bluff at the confluence of 
the rivers. They have a valuable reservation here, and the men of the 
tribe engage in lumbering and boating. 

A branch railway runs from Arnostook Junction for 34 M. up the Aroostook 
Talley, by Fort Fairfield (Collins House), an American town of 3,000 inhab- 
itants, near Aroostook Falls, Battle Brook, etc , and with several churches and 
factories. It was settled in 1816 by New-Brunswickers, who supposed it to be in 
their Province. The railway goes on 12 M. to Caribou ( Vaughan House), with 
8,000 inhabitants and a newspaper, and a neighborhood abounding in trout, deer, 
moose, etc. 12 M. beyond, at the end of the railway, is Presque Isle (Presqa- 
Isle Hotel; Phair Hotel), with 3,500 inhabitants, a newspaper, opera house, water- 
works, etc. In the vicinity are found bears, deer, moose, caribou, ducks, and capital 
fishing, in Presque-Isle Stream, Aroostook River, Squawpan Lake. Tiience one 
begins the excursions to the Eagle Lakes, Milluokett, Millnig:i.«sett, Numsungan, etc. 

From Toh'que to Bathurst. Throui^h the Wilderness. 

The new Tobique- Valley Railway runs from Tobique beyond Arthurette. 

Guides and canoes can be obtained at the Indian village near Tobique. About 
1 M. above Tobique the voyagers ascend through the Narruics, where the rapid cur- 
rent of the Tobique River is confined in a winding canon (1 M. long, 150 ft wide, 
and 50-100 ft. deep) between high limestone cliffs Then the river broadens out 
into a pretty lake-like reach, with rounded and forest-covered hills on either side. 
The first night-camp is usually made high up on this reach. Two more rapids are 
next passed, and then commences a stretch of clear, deep water 70 M. long. Near 
the foot of the reach is the settlement of Arthurette, with about 400 inhabitants. 
The Red Rapids are 11 M from the mouth of the river, and descend between high 
shores. Occasional beautifully wooded islands are passed in the stream ; and by 
the evening of the second daj' the voyagers should reach the high red cliffs at the 
mouth of the broad Wapskehegan River. This Indian name signifies " a river with 
a wail at its mouth," and the stream may be ascended for 20 M.. through a region 
of limestone hills and alluvial intervales. The Wapskehegan is 31 M. above the 
mouth of the Tobique. 

Infrequent clearings, red cliffs along the shore, and bine liills more remote, en- 
gage the attention as the canoe ascends still farther, passing the hamlet of Foster'' s 
•Cove on the N. bank, and running along the shores of Diamond and Long Island, 
44 M. up river is the Agulquac River, coming in from the E., and navigable by 
canoes for 25 M. As the intervales beyond this continence are passed, occasional 
glimpses are gained (on the r.) of the Blue Mts. and other ttiU ridges. At 80 M. 
from the mouth of the river, the canoe reaches The Forks (4-5 days from Tobique). 



NICTOR LAKE. Route 13. 55 

The Campbell River here conies in from the E. and S. E., from the great Tobique 
Lake and other remote wilderness-waters; the Moniozeket descends from the N., 
and from the N. W. comes the Nictor, or Littie Tobiiiue Itiver. It is a good day's 
jonrney from the Forks to Cedar Brook, on the Nictor; and another day conducts 
*o the * Nictor Lake, " })Ossessiug more beauty of scenery than any other locality 
I liave seen in the Province, except, perhaps, the Bay of Ohaleur. Close to its 
southern edge a granite mountain rises to a lieight of nearly 3,000 ft., clothed with 
wood to its summit, except where it breaks into precipices of dark rock or long gray 
shingly slopes. Other mountains of less height, but in some cases of more pictur- 
esque forms, are on other sides ; and in the lake itself, in the shallow of the mouD- 
tiiin, is a little rocky islet of most inviting appearance." It takes 2-3 hours to 
ascend the mountaui (Bald, or Sagamook), whence " the view is very fine. The lake 
lies right at our feet, — millions of acres of forest are spread out before us like a 
map, sinking and swelling in one dark mantle over hills and valleys, whilst Katah- 
ilin and Mars Ilill in Maine, Tracadiegash in Canada, the Squaw's Cap on the 
Restigouche. and Green .Mountain in Victoria, are all distinctly visible." (Gordon.) 
From the head of Nictor Lake a portage 3 M. long leads to the ISepisiguit Lake, 
on whose E. shore is the remarkable peak called Mount TenerifTe. Near the outlet 
is a famous camping-ground, where the fishing is good and in whose vicinity deer 
and ducks are found. It takes about six days to descend the Neplsiguit River to 
the Great Falls, the larger part of the way being through forests of fir and between 
distant ranges of bare granite hills. 

The Tobique affords the very best of salmon-fishing, with many trout also. The 
scenery is very interesting, with noble red clLTs, and canons, seething rapids, hiii- 
girt lakes, and true forest wilduess. The Tobique is the most picturesque stream 
in New Brunswick. 

Grand Falls {Grand-Falls Hotel, a new summer-resort; American; 
Glasier's), the central point of the upper St. John region, once a British 
garrison, and now capital of Victoria County, has latterly become famous 
as a Avatering-place, the attractions being the noble river and gorge and 
hill scener}' adjacent, the summer coolness, beautiful drives, fine fishing- 
grounds, etc. The pretty little village, with its three churches, stands on 
a square peninsular plateau, with the river on three sides, and a dry ravine 
on the fourth. The immensely wide Broadway runs from the railway 
to the bridge. The diverse manners of the French haUtans and Danish 
immigrants are worthy of observation. Partridges and wild ducks abound 
here, in the fall, and furnish good sport; and the strawberries of Julv are 
delicious. The Falls are at their best in May, when magnificent convul- 
sions of the flooded river are seen. A month later, the logs come down. 
Besides the view from the bridge, the Falls and the gorge should be seen 
from the old mill above, from the ^Vells (5 huge eroded pot-holes, with 
grand prospect of the cailon and rapids), and from Lover's Leap, over the 
profound Falls-Brook Basin. The scenery is majestic and awe-in..piring. 
Ihere are lovely views from the mountain W. of (and 700 ft nbove) 
the village, including Blue Bell, Bald Head, and the long lines of the Sal- 
mon-River and Blue Mts. 

The ** Grand Falls are near the village, and form the most imposing 
cataract in the Maritime Provinces. The river expands into a broad basin 
above, affording a landing-place for descending canoes; then hurries its 
massive current into a narrow rock-bound gorge, in which it slants down 
an incline of 6 ft., and then plunges over a precipice of calcareous slate 



56 liotiielS. GRAND FALLS. 

58 ft. high. The shape of the fall is singular, since the water leaps from 
the front and from both sides, with minor and detached cascades over the 
outer ledges. Below the cataract the river whirls and whitens for | M. 
through a rugged gorge 250 ft. wide, whose walls of dai-k rock are from 
100 to 240 ft. high. " It is a narrow and frightful chasm, lashed by the 
troubled water, and excavated by boiling eddies and whirlpools always 
in motion; at last the water plunges in an immense frothy sheet into a 
basin below, where it becomes tranquil, and the stream resumes its origi- 
nal features." Within the gorge the river falls 58 ft. more, and the rug- 
ged shores are strewn with the wrecks of lumber-rafts which have become 
entangled here. The traveller should try to visit the Falls when lun~^ier " 
about passing over. 3-4 M. below the Falls is the dangerous Eapide de 
Femme. Small steamers have been placed on the river above the Falls, 
and have run as far as the mouth of the St. Francis, t;5 M distant. 

It is a tradition of the Micmacs that in a remote age two fami ies of their tribe 
•were on the upper St. John hunting, and were surprised by a war-party of the 
strange and dreaded Northern Indians. The latter were descending the river to at- 
tack the lower Blicmac Tillages, and forced the captured women to pilot them down. 
A few miles above the falls they asked thtir unwilling guides if the stream was all 
smooth below, and on receiving an affirmative answer, lashed the canoes together 
into a raft, and went to sleep, exhausted with their march. When near the Grand 
Falls the women quietly dropped overboard and swam ashore, while tne hostile war- 
rioi's, wrapped in slumber, were swept down into the rapids, onh' to awaken when 
escape was impossible. Their bodies were stripped by the Micmacs on the river be- 
low, and the brave women were ever afterward held in high honor by the tribe. 

Crossing the St. John at Grand Falls, the line ascends the E bank of 
the stream, and soon entei's the Acadian-French settlements and farming- 
districts. 8-10 M. up the road is the village of St. Leonard, nearly all of 
whose people are French; and on the American shore (for the St. John 
River is for many leagues the frontier between the nations) is the simi- 
larly constituted village of Van Buren (two inns). This district is largely 
peopled by the Cyr, Violette, and Michaud families. 

The Hon. Arthur Gordon thus describes one of these Acadian homes near Grand 
River (in 1863): " The whole aspect of the farm was that of a mctuirif, in Nor- 
mandy ; the outer doors of the house gaudily painted, the panels of a ditfereut 
color from the frame, — the large, open, uncarpeted room, with its bare shining 
floor, — the lasses at the spinning-wheel, — the French costume and appearance of 
Madame Violet and her sons and daughters, — all carried me back to the other side 
of the Atlantic.'" 

Grand River (TardifF's inn) is a hamlet about 4 M. be^'ond St. Leonard, 
at the mouth of the river of the same name. 

The St. John River to the Restigouche. 

A rugged wilderness-journey may be made on this line, by engaging Acadian 
guides and canoes at the Madawaska settlements. 3-4 weeks will be sufficient time 
to reach the Bay of Chaleur, with plenty of fishing on the way. On leaving the St. 
John the voyagers ascend the Grand River to its tributai'y, the Waagausis. A port- 
age of 5-6 M. from this stream leads to the Waagan, down whose narrow current 
the canoes float through the forest until the broad Restigouche is entered (see Route 
16 ; see also Hon. Arthur Gordon in " Vacation Tourists " for 1862 - 63, p. 477). 



MAD AW ASK A. Rovic hi. 57 

G M, above Grand Kiver is St. Basil, with 1,400 inhabitants and a hu-f^e 
Catliolic Church and the Convent and School of tlie Sacred Heart. A few 
miles beyond are some islands in the St. John Kiver, over which is seen 
tlie American villajje of Grant Isle (Cyr's inn), a place of 700 inhabitants, 
all nf whom are Acadians. This viiia-j^e was incorporated in 1860, and is 
on the U. S. mail-route from Van Buren to Fort Kent. Beyond (ireen 
River the road continues around the irreat hpud of thp St. .John to the 
Acadian settlement of Edmundston {Adams Hok-l. Ifntel Babin) at the con- 
tluence of the Madawaska and St. John Rivers. This is the centre of 
the Acadian-French settlements which extend from the Grand Falls. 
This district is studded with Roman Catholic chapels, and is divided into 
narrow farms, on which are quaint little houses. There are rich tracts of 
intervale along the rivers, and the people are generally in a prosperous 
and happy condition. The visitor should ascend to the top of the loftily 
situated old block-house tower, over Edmundston, for the sake of the 
wide prospect over the district. The village is rather crude, but the 
scenery about it, including the great river, the rich meadows, the far- 
away Mt. Carmel, is very charming. The best of fishing (trout and 
whitetish, tuladi and toque, — these latter weighing from 15 to 35 pounds 
each) is to be enjoyed in this vicinity, particularly in Fish River and the 
Eagle Lakes, Green River, and the Temiscouata region. 

This people is descended from the French colonists who lived on the shores of the 
Bay of Fund)- and the Basin of Minas at the middle of the 18th century. When 
the cruel edict of exile was carried into effect in 1755 (see Route 21), many of the 
Acadians fled from the Anglo-American troops and took refuge in the forest" A por- 
tion of them ascended the St. .John to the present site of Fredericton, and founded 
a new home ; but they were ejected 30 years later, in order that the land might be 
given to the refugee American Loyalists. Then they advanced into the trackless 
forest, and settled^ in the Madawaska region, where they have been permitted to re- 
main undisturbed. When the American frontier was pushed forward to the St. 
John River, by the sharp diplomacy of Mr. Webster, the Acadians found themselves 
divided by a national boundary ; and so they still remain, nearly half of the villages 
being on the side of the United States It is estimated that "there are now about 
8,000 persons in these settlements. 

" It was pleasant to drive along the wide flat intervale which formed the Mada- 
waska Valley ; to see the rich crops of oats, buckwheat, and potatoes; the large, 
often handsome, and externally clean and comfortable-looking houses of the inhab- 
itants, with the wooded high grounds at a distance on our right, and the river on 
our left, — on which an occasional boat, laden with stores for the lumberers, with 
the help of stout horses, toiled against the current towards the rarely visited head- 
waters of the tributary streams, where the virgin forests still stood unconscious of 
the axe. This beautiful valley, with the rich lands which border the river above 
the mouth of the Madawaska, as far almost as that of the river St. Francis, is the 
peculiar seat of the old Acadian-French." (Prof. Johnston.) 

The American village of Ma«la\vaska (two inns) is opposite Edmundston, and 
has over 1,000 inhabitants. The U. S. mail-stages run from this point up»the val- 
ley of the St. John for 10 M. to another Acadian village, which was first named 
Dionne (in honor of Father Dionne, who founded here the Church of St. Luce) ; in 
1869 was incorporated as Dickey ville, in honor of some local statesman ; and in 1871 
received the name of Frenchville, " as describing the nationality of its settlers." 
From near Frenchville a portage 5 M. long leads to the shores of Lake Cleveland^ 
a fine sheet of water 9 M. long, connected by Second Lake and Lake Preble with 
Lake Sf.dgiviek, which is nearly 10 M, long. 



58 Route 13. TEMISCOUATA LAKE. 

16 M. S. W. of Madawaska is Fort Kent, an old border-post of theU. S. Anny. It 
has two inns and about 1,000 inhabitants (including the adjacent farming settle- 
ments), and is the terminus of the mail-route from A'an Buien. From this point 
stages run W. 20 M. to the Acadian village of St. Francis, near the mouth of the St. 
Francis River. The latter stream, flo^viug from the N. W., is the boundary of the 
United States for the next 40 M., descending through the long lakes called Wela- 
stookwaagamis, Pechtaweekaagomic, and Pohenegamook. Above the mouth of 
the St. Francis, the St. John River is included in the State of Maine, and flows 
through that immense and trackless forest which covers " an extent seven times that 
of the famous Black Forest of Germany at its largest expanse in modern times. The 
States of Rhode Island, Connecticut, and Delaware could be lost together in our 
northern forests, and still leave about each a margin of wilderness sufficiently wide 
to make the exploration without a compass a work of desperate adventure " Its 
chief tributary in the woods is the Allagash, which descends from the great Lakes 
Pemgockwahen and Chamberlain, near the Chesuncook and Moosehead Lakes and 
the head-waters of the Penobscot. 

The Ea'i:le L,akes, in Maine, are visited hence (guides obtained at Whitney's) 
by a portage of 5i M. from FrcncJivi/Ie, 5 M above Edmundston, to Long Lake, 
whence, by Mud, Cross, Square, and Eagle Lakes, and Fish River, the canoes de- 
scend through beautiful scenery to Fort Kent, 20 M. above Edmundston. There 
are famous burbot and whitefisli in these lakes. 

From Edmundston the Temisconata Railway leaves the St. John, and 
ascends the W. shore of the Madawaska. But few settlements are passed, 
and at 12 M. from Edmundston the Province of Quebec is entered. 
About 25 M. from Edmundston the road reaches the foot of the picturesque 
Temiscouata Lake, where there is a small village. The road is parallel 
with the water, but at a considerable distance from it, until near the 
upper part, and pretty views are afforded from various points where it 
overlooks the lake. 

Temiscouata is an Indian word meaning " Winding Water," and the lake 
is 30 M. long by 2 - 3 M. wide. The scenery is very pretty, and the clear 
deep Avaters contain many fish, the best of which are the tuladi, or great 
gray trout, which sometimes weighs over 12 pounds. There are also white- 
fish and burbot. Visitors to the lake usually stop at the Lake-Side House, 
where canoes may be obtained. From the W., Temiscouata receives the 
Cabiueau River, the outlet of Long Lake (15 by 2 M.); and on the E. is 
the Tuladi River, which rises in the highlands of Rimouski and flows 
down through a chain of secluded and rarely visited lakelets. The chief 
settlement on Temiscouata Lake is the French Catholic hamlet of Notre 
Dame du Lac, which was founded since 1861 and has 180 inhabitants. 
Fort Ingalls commanded the lake, and had a garrison of 200 men as late 
as 1850. 

At the mouth of the Tuladi, 285 barrels of wliitefish were taken in the fall run 
of 1378. 1 M. up are falls, from which the still Tuladi may be ascended for 16 M., 
to the Forks, where the fishing is very good. Deer, bears, caribou, and other gamo 
abound in these vast untrodden forests. A favorite trip for sportsmen leads from 
Edmundston (by carriage) up the Madawaska to Griffin's, 16 M. , then a portage of 
21- M. to Mud Lake; then a long and delightful canoe-descent to Fourth Squa-took 
Lake ; then down into Third Squa-took, from whose shore rises the noble-viewing 
Squa-took Peak ; and then down to the Forks, and along the Tuladi River to Temis- 
couata Lake. 

The road from Temiscouata Lake to Riviere du Loup is 40-50 M. long, 
and descends through a wild region into which few settlers have advanced 



SIIEDIAC. RvMclIf. 59 

14. St. John to Shediac. 

Distances. — St. John to Mouctou, 89 M. ; raiusec Juuction, 97 ; Dorchester 
lload, 102 ; Shediac, 106 ; I'oiut du Oheue, 108. 

St. John to Painsec Junction, see Route 16 

Passengers for Shediuc and Point du Cliene change cars at Painsec 
Junction, and pass to the N. E. over a Jevel and unproductive country. 

Shediac {Wddon; Trrtre?-/ei/) is a vilhige of 500 inhabitants, with 3 
churciies, — Baptist, the Catholic St. Joseph de Sliediac, and St. Andrew's, 
the head of a rural deanery of the Anglican church. The town is well 
situated on a broad harbor, which is sheltered by Shediac Island, but its 
commerce is inconsiderable, being limited to a few cargoes of lumber ami 
deals sent annually to Great Britain. The small oysters ( Ostrea canadensis) 
of the adjacent waters are also exported to the provincial cities. Shediac 
was occupied by a French garrison in 1750, to protect the borders of 
Acadia, and in 1757 there were 2,000 French and Acadian troops and 
settlers here. The French element is still predominant in this vicinity, 
and its interests are represented by a weekly paper called "Ze Moniteur 
Acadien.'''' 

Point du Chene (Point du Cliene House) is 2 M. N. E. of 

Shediac, and is the E. terminus of the railway and the St. Lawrence port 
nearest to St. John. It has a village of about 200 inhabitants, with long 
piers reaching out to the deep-water channels. From this point passen- 
gers embark on the steamers for Prince Edward Island. Daily steamers 
run from Point du Chene to Summerside, P. E. T., -where they make con- 
nections with the trains of the P. E. I. Railway (see Route 43) for Char- 
lottetown and all parts of the island. 

Passengers leave St. John at 8 A. m., and reach Charlotteto^vn at 8 p. m. 



The Westmorland Coast. Infrequent mail-stages run E. from Shediac by Point 
du Chene to Barachois, 8 M. ; Tedish,17; Great Shemogue (Avard"s Hotel), 22; 
and Little Shemogue, 24. These settlements contain about 1,.500 inliabitants, most 
of whom are Acadians. Capes Jourimain (fixed white light, visible 14 M.) and Tor- 
mentine are respectively 15 M. and 20 M. E. of Little Shemogne. 

10- 12 M. N . of Shediac (mail-stage daily) are the large and prosperous Acadian settle- 
ments of the Cocagnes (three inns), having about 1,-500 inhabitants, seven eighths of 
whom are of French descent. These people are nearly all farmers, engaged in tiUing 
the level plains of Dundas, although a good harbor opens between the vitlagcs. 21 M. 
from Shediac is Buctouche (two inns), a prosperous Acadian village of 4')0 inhab- 
itants, engaged in shipbuilding and in the exportation of lumber and oysters. 

The Buctouclie and Moncton Railway runs through a fine farm- 

ing country, crossing Cocagne. 



59 a Route 77. ST. JOHN TO QUEBEC. 



77. St. John and Halifax to Quebec. 

The Intercolonial Railway is the gigantic and costly outgrowth of the Canadian 
National sentiment, which has established here a perfectly equipped railway route 
of vast extent, through a region which can never pay the cost of its operation, 
being thinly settled, and exposed to very serious climatic vicissitudes. It was 
deemed essential to h^'ve a first-class route between the maritime and inland prov- 
inces, entirely on Canadian territory, even though the distance is nearly double 
that across New Ecgland. The first road was surveyed by Major Yule, R. E., before 
1840, and ran across the present Northern Maine, then claimed and partly held by 
Canada. In 1846-48 a new route was carefully laid out by officers of the Royal 
Engineers. The construction began in 1889, and was finished in 1876. This great 
mihtary route runs from the E. terminus of the Grand Trunk Railway, at Riviere du 
Loup, to Rimouski, where it leaves the St. Lawrence, and crosses the lonely high- 
lands of Quebec, reaching grades 743 ft. above the sea, and descends to the Bay 
Chaleur. Thence it runs down the north shore of New Brunswick, and down across 
Nova Scotia, to Halifax, its magnificent winter-harbor. From the main line there 
are branches to Dalhousie, Chatham, Richibucto, Point du Chene, St. John, and 
Pictou. The entire length of track is about 850 M. 

Stations (Moncton to Quebec).— Moncton to Berry's Mills, 8 M. ; Canaan, 
19; Coal Branch, 28 ; Weldford, 37; Kent Junction, 48 ; Ro2;ersvil]e, 57 ; Barnaby 
River, 69 ; Chatham Junction, 72 ; Derby, 75 ; Newcastle, 78 ; Beaver Brook, 88 ; 
Bartibogue, 99 ; Red Pine, 109 ; Bathurst, 122 ; Petite Roche, 134 ; Belledune, 142 ; 
Jacquet River, 151 ; New Mills, 161 ; Charlo, 167 ; Dalhousie, 177 ; Campbellton, 
185 ; Metapedia, 198 ; Mill Stream, 208 ; Assametquaghan, 219 ; Causap-cal, 2.30 ; 
Amqui, 246; Cedar Hall, 255; Sayabec, 261; Tartague, 272; Little M(§tis', 282; 
St. Flavie, 291 ; St. Luce, 299 ; St. Anaclete, 306 ; Rimouski, 309 ; Sa^re Coeur, 
317; Bic, 319; St. Fabien, 328 ; St. Simon, 338 ; Trois Pistoles, .347 ; St. Eloi, 353 ; 
Isle Verte, 358; St. Arsene, 366; Cacouua, 368; Riviere du Loup, 374: Notre 
Dame du Portage, 380 ; St. Alexandre, 386 ; St. Andre, .391 ; St Helene, 394 ; St. 
Paschall, 400 ; St. Phihppe d^Neri, 402; Riviere Quelle, 409 ; St. Anne, 415; St. 
Roche, 423 ; Elgin Road, 426 ; St. Jean Port Joli, 430 ; Trois Saumons, 4-35 ; L'lslet, 
438; L'Anse a Gile,442; Cap St. Ignace, 445: St. Thomas, 452 ; St. Pierre, 459; 
St. Fran9ois, 462; St. Valier, 466; St. Michel. 470; St. Charles, 476 ; St. Henri, 
484 ; St. Jean Chrysostome, 488 ; Chaudiere Curve, 492 ; Hadlow, 498 ; Point Levi, 
499; Quebec, 500. 

For nearly 80 M., from Moncton to Newcastle (see page 62), the route 
lies over a dull country' (railway from Kent Junction to Richibucto). 
Steamers run hence to Chatham (also a branch railway) and up the jNIira- 
michi, and carriages 30 M. to the hotel on the Tabusintac, famous for 
great sea-trout. The railway crosses the Miramichi on immense iron 
bridges, carried by 12 stone piers, and runs for nearly 50 M. to Bathurst 
(bee page 05), where it crosses the Nepisiguit on a long bridge of English 
iron. The scenery is much finer, as the train rushes on, with frequent 
glimpses of the Bay of Chaleur, fur 50 M., to Dalhousie (see page 67), 9 
M. beyond which is Campbellton (page 68), with its railway dining-room. 
Charming scener}' fallows, and the hue crosses the Restigouche River on a 
noble iron bridge, and enters the Province of Quebec. 



ST. JOHN TO QUEBEC. Rnitc 77. 59 h 

The Baie-des-Chaleurs Railway runs along the N. shore of the bay, 
from ]\rotapo(lia to Carlton (40 M.\ and is beinic prolonged to Paspebiac 
aon :\r.) and C.asp- M70 M.). 

Beyond the hamlet of Metapedia, the line begins the long ascent of the 
Metapedia valle\', a stretch of 70 i.I, of -wild, mountain-girt, island-dotted, 
Scottish scenery, with no villages or towns, or hotels. Lake Metapedia 
affords a beautiful sight, and abounds in tish and game, but no accommo- 
dations for tourists have yet been prepared. Vast forests hem in the road 
on every side, stretching lor many leagues along the dreary and uniuhab- 
iied highlands. About the only product of the region is salmon, the long 
and rapid Metapedia River affording fair sport to one or two owners of fish- 
ing lodge*. ... A few small lumber-mills have been started within a 
year or two, around which are clustered the wooden dwellings of the work- 
men- 

Sayabec, a few miles farther on, through the woods, is a lonely sta- 
tion at the crossing of the old military road from Quebec to New Bruns- 
wick. A long up-grade leads thence to Malphet Lake, and soon reaches 
the Tartigon River, which it follows down to the village of the same name. 
A dreary stretch of track follows, partly obscured in deep rocky cuttings, 
and partly running through the debris of burned forests, and conducting, 
at last, to the shores of the St. Lawrence River, by the Metis Falls and 
the great cuttings near St. Octave, Avhich is the station for the Grand and 
Little Metis, famous salmon-streams, where good hunting is found. There 
is a large summer-hotel at Little Metis. The Grand Metis River is crossed 
b}' a long, lofty, and costly railway bridge, supported on high stone 
abutments a mile or two below Avhich is the Grand Metis Fall, where the 
river descends 75 ft. at a single plunge. A few miles beyond is St. Flavie, 
where the route enters the more thickly settled French country along the 
St. Lawrence. 



60 Route 15. RICHIBUCTO. 



15. The Bay of Chaleur and the North Shore of New 
Brunswick. 

Since the construction of the Intercolonial Railway, the routes of Pro- 
vincial travel have undergone many important changes, particularly 
around the N. shore of New Brunswick, where the trains on this great 
route have supplanted the services of the steamships. The regular steam- 
ship lines between Quebec and Prince Edward Island, which used to serve 
these ports, now no more visit the shores of New Brunswick. 

The Quebec steamships do not now go up the Bay of Chaleur, but the 
account of the Bay is retained for the use of voyagers by other vessels. 
A steamboat leaves Dalhousie several times a week for ports on the Bay of 
Chaleur, running out as far as Gasp^. 

Richibucto (Phair's Hotel) is the capital of Kent County, and occupies 
a favorable position for commerce and s-hipbuilding near the mouth of the 
Richibucto River. It has about 800 inhabitants and 'd churches, and is 
engaged in the exportation of lumber and canned lobsters. The river is 
navigable for 20 M., and has been a great highway for lumber-vessels, 
although now the supply of the forests is wellnigh exhausted. In the 
region about Richibucto are many Acadian farmers, and the hamlet of Al- 
douin River, 4 M. from tiie town, pertains to this people. The Kent 
Northern Railway runs 27 M. S. W. from Richibucto to Kingston and 
Kent Junction ( Brown'' s Hotel) on the Intercolonial Railway. The rail- 
way leads also N. W. 7 M. to St. Louis, with its convent and sacred well. 
A road leads S. W. through the wilderness to the Grand-Lake district (see 
pages 48-49). 

The Beaches ($2-3 a day; reductions for season) is a new summer- 
resort near Richibucto, with accomm jdations for 200 guests, with capital 
facilities for boating and bathing, tishingand shooting, sailing and driving, 
bowling and billiards, etc., and grounds for tennis and cricket, croquet 
and base-ball. Indian guides may be obtained here. There is no piano 
in the main building. 

Richibucto and The Beaches are reached only by the Intercolonial Rail- 
way and the Kent Northern & St. Louis Railway. 

The name Richibucto signifies " the River of Fire," and the shores of the ri-nr 
and bav were formerly inhabited by a ferocious and bloodthirsty tribe of linli.r. . 
So late as 1787, when the American Loyalist Powell settled here, there were bi t loi • 
Christian families (and they were Acadians) in all this region (the present county 1 1 
Kent). The power of the Richibuctos was broken in 1724, when all their warrior: , 



CUATJIAM. Rnittc 15. 01 

under command of Arjiimoosh (" the Great Wizard '"), attacked Canso and captured 
17 Massachusetts vessels. Two well-manned vessels of Boston and Capo Ann were 
sent after them, and overtook the Indian fleet on the coast. A desperate naval battle 
ensui'd between the Massachusetts sloops and the Indian prize-ships. The Kichi- 
buctos Ibught with great valor, but were finally di.sconcerted by showers of hand- 
grenades from the Americans, and nearly every warrior was either killed or drowned. 

After emerging from Ricliihucto harbor, the steamer runs N. across the 
opcnuig of the shallow Kouchibouguac Bay, whose shores are low sand- 
bars and beaches which enclose shoal lagoons. 5 I\I. above Point Sapin is 
Escuminac Pointy on which is a powerful white light, visible for 25 M. 
The course is now laid more to the W., across the Miramichi Bay, and on 
the 1. are seen the pilots' village antl the lighthouses on Preston's Beach. 
The entrance to the Inner Bay of Miramichi is between Fox Island and 
Portage Island, the latter of which bears a lighthouse. The Inner Bay is 
13 M. long and 7-8 M. wide, and on the S. is seen Via Island, back of 
which is the Bay du Vin. Two centuries ago all this shore -was occujyed 
by French settlements, whose only remnant now is the hamlet of Portage 
Eoad, in a remote corner of the bay. 

When about 9 M. from the entrance, the steamer passes between Point 
Quart and Grand Dune Island (on the r.), which are 85 M. ajiart. 3-4 
M. farther on, the course is -betwe-^n Oak Point, with its two lighthouses 
(on the r.), and Cheval Point, beyond which is the populous valley of the 
Napan River, on the S. The hamlet of Black Brook is visible on the 1., 
and off Point Xapan is Sheldrake Island, a low and swampy land lying 
across the mouth of the river. The vessel now enters the Miramichi 
River, and on the r. is the estuary of the Great Bartibog, with the beacon- 
lights on Malcolm Point. The Miramichi is here a noble stream, fully 
1 M. wide, but flowing between low and uninteresting shores. 

Chatham (Adams TJouse ; Canada House) is tho chief town on the North 
Shore, and has a population of nearly 5,000, u itli 5 churches, a weekly 
newspaper, and a Masonic hall. It is 24 M. from the sea, and is built 
along the S. shore of the river for a distance of 1^ M. On the summit of 
the hill along which the town is built is seen a great pile of Catholic in- 
stitutions, among which are the Cathedral of St IMichael, the convent and 
hospital of the Hotel Dieu de Chatham, and St. Michael's College. These 
buildings, like all the rest of the town, are of wood. The chief industries 
of Chatham are shipbuilding and the exportation of fi.sh and lumber, and 
the river here usually contains several large ships, which can anclior oli' 
the wharves iu 6-8 fathoms. Railroad to l^rederictou, see page 47. 

About 22 M. beyond Chatham are the head-waters of the Tabusintac Kiver 

" the .-.ponsniau's paradise," a narrow and shallow stream in which an abundance 
of trout is found. 

Tri-wnekiy stages run from Chatham N. E. to Oak Point, 11 M. ; Burnt Church 
20; Neguac, i:.5 ; Tabusintac, 37; Tiacadie, 52; Pockmouche, 64; Shippigun, 70-' 
and Caraquecte (Lower), 73. The first 3iJ M. of tnis road are along (or near) the n' 
sliore of tiie Miramichi iliver and the inner Bay, by the hamlets of Oak Point and 
Burnt Churcn. 



62 Route 15. THE MIRAMICHI. 

Burnt Cliiircli is still the capital of the Micmac Indians of the Province, and 
here they gather in great numbers on St. Anne's Day and engage in religious rites 
and athletic sports and dances Hon. Arthur Gordon says: " I was surprised by 
the curious resemblance between these dances and those of the Greek peasantry. 
Even the costumes were in some degree similar, and I noticed more than one short 
colored-silk jacket and handkerchief-bound head that carried me back to Ithaca 
and Paxo." (Vacation Tourists, 1863.) 

Tabusintac (small inn) is near the mouth of the Tabusintac River, and is a 
Presbyterian village of about 400 inhabitants, most of whom are engaged in the 
fisheries. Many large sea-trout are caught near the mouth of the river, and in 
October immense numbers of wild geese and ducks are shot in the adjacent lagoons. 

Trataclie is a settlement which contains 1,2C0 French Acadians, and is situated 
near a broad lagoon which lies inside a line of sand-bars. Salmon, cod, and herring 
are found in the adjacent vaters, and most of the people are engaged in the fish- 
eries. The Tracadie Lazaretto is devoted to the reception of persons afHicted with 
the leprosy, which prevails to some extent in this district, but has diminished since 
the government secluded the lepers in this remote hospital There is an old tradi- 
tion that the leprosy was introduced into this region during the last century, when 
a French vessel was wrecked on the coast, some of whose sailors were from Mar- 
seilles and had contracted the true elephantiasis grcecorurn (Eastern leprosy) in the 
Levant. Its perpetuation and hereditary transmission is attributed to the closeness 
of the relation in which intermarriage is sanctioned among the Acadians (sometimes 
by dispensations from the Church) 

Pockmouche is a settlement of 800 Acadian farmers, and here the mail-route 
forks, — one road running 6 M. N. E. to Shippigan (see page 64), the other run- 
ning 9 M. N. to Lower Caraquette (see page 66;. 

River-steamers run up the N. W. and S. \V. branches, and occasionally to Burnt 
Church and Bay du Vin. Another river-steamer runs up the river four times daily 
to Newcastle (6 M.), touching at Douglastown, a dingy village on the N. bank, where 
much lumber is loaded on the ships which take it hence to Europe. This village 
contains about 400 inhabitants, aud has a marine hospital, built of stone. 

Newcastle ( Waverley Hotd) is the capital of Northuuiberland Countv, 
and is situated at the head of deep-water navigation on the Mirainich^ 
River. It has about 1,500 inhabitants, and is engaged in shipbuilding 
and the exportation of fish and lumber, oysters, and preserved lobsters. 
One of the chief stations of the Intercolonial Railway is located here, and a 
branch line has been built to Chatham. 150,000,000 ft. of lumber are ex- 
ported hence annually. There are 5 churches here. 

A short distance above Newcastle, and beyond the Irish village of Nel- 
son, is the confluence of the gi-eat rivers known as the N. W. Miramichi 
and the S. W. Miramichi. These streams are crossed by the largest and 
most costly bridges on the line of the Intercolonial Railway. The name 
MirnmicM signifies "Happy Retreat," and indicates the love that tlie In- 
dians entertained for these fine hunting and fishing grounds. The upper 
waters of the rivers traverse wide districts of unsettled country, and are 
visited by hardy and adventurous sportsmen, who capture large numbers 
of trout and salmon. This system of waters is connected b,y portages witli 
the Nepisiguit, the Restigouche, the Upsalquitch, the Tobique, and the 
Nashwaak Rivers. The best salmon-pools are on the S. W. Miramichi, 
beyond Boiestown, at the mouths of the Salmon, Rocky, Clearwater, and 
Burnt Hill Brooks. A railway runs from Cliaiham to Boiestown and 
Fredericton (seepage 47). Steamboats four times daily from Newcastle 
to Chatham. 



SHIPPIGAN ISLAND. Route 15. G3 

B^atibair's Islnnii is off upper Nelson, and was formerly occupied by a prosperous 
French to wo, but few relics of which are now to be seen It was destroyed by a 
British naval attack in 175U A colony was planted here in 1722, under Cardinal 
Fleury's administration, and was provided with 200 houses, a church, and a Iti-guu 
baf'ery. 

In 1(342-44 the Miramichi district was occupied by Jean Jaqucs Enaud, a Basque 
gentleman, who founded trading-posts on the islands and entered also upon the 
walrus fisheries. But a contention soon arose between Enaud's men and the In- 
dians, by reason of which the Basque establishments were destroyed, and their peo- 
ple were forced to flee to Nepisiguit In 1G72, after the Treaty of Breda, several 
families from St. Malo landed on this coast and founded a village at Bay du Vin. 
From 1740 to 1757 a flourishing trade was carried ou between the .Miramichi country 
and f ranee, great quantities of furs being exported. But the crops failed in 17u7, 
and the relief-ships from France were captured by the British. In the winter of 
175S the transport L'//;rf(V«ne, of Morlaix, was wrecked in the bay, and the dis- 
heartened colonists, fimished and pestilence-stricken, were rapidly depleted by 
death Many of the French settlers died during the winter, and were buried on 
Beaubair"s Point. Those who survived fled from the scene of such bitter suffering, 
and by the arrival of spring there were not threescore inhabitants about the bay. 

In 1759 a British war-vessel entered the bay for wood and water, and the first 
boafs-crew which landed was cut off and exterminated by the Indians. The frigate 
bombarded the French Fort batteries, and annihilated the town at Canadian Cove. 
Then sailing to the N. E., the commander landed a force at Neguac, and burnt the 
Catholic chapel, the inhabitants having fled to the woods. Neguac is known to this 
day only by the name of Burnt Church. After this fierce foray all the N. coast of 
New Brunswick was deserted and relapsed into a wilderness state. 

In 1775 there was an insignificant Scotch trading post on the S. W. Miramichi, 
where 1 ,500 - 1 ,800 tierces of salmon were caught annually. This was once surprised 
and plundered by the Indians in sympathy with the Americans, but in 1777 the 
river was visited by the sloop-of-war Viper and the captured American privateer 
Lafayette. The American flag was displayed on the latter vessel, and it was given 
out that her crew were Bostouians, by which means 35 Indians from the great coun- 
cil at Bartibog were decoyed on board and carried captive to Quebec. 

In 1786 the Scottish settlers opened large saw-mills on the N. W. Miramichi, and 
several families of American Loyalists settled along the shoi-e. Vast numbers of 
masts and spars were sent hence to the British dock-yards, and the growth of the 
Miramichi was rapid and satisfactory. In 1793 the Indians of the hills gathered 
secretly and concerted plans to exterminate the settlers (who had mostly taken 
refuge in Chatham), but the danger was averted by the interposition of the French 
Catholic priests, who caused the Indians to disperse. 

In October, 1825, this district was desolated by t'.ie great Miramichi Fire, which 
swept over 3,000,000 acres of forest, and destroyed % 1,000,000 worth of property and 
160 human lives. The town of Newcastle was laid in ashes, and all the lower Mi- 
ramichi Valley became a blackened wilderness. The only escape for life was by 
rushing into the rivers while the storm of fire passed overhead : and here, nearly 
covered by the hissing waters, were men and women, the wild animals of the woods, 
and the domestic beasts of the farm. 

On leaving the Miramichi River and Bay the vessel steams out into the 
Gulf, leaving on the N. W. the low shores of Tabusintac and Tracadie, in- 
dented by wide and .shallow lagoons (see page 62). After running about 
35 M. the low red cliffs of Shippigan Island are seen on the W. This 
island is 12 i\I. long by 8 M. wide, and is inhabited by Acadian fishermen. 
On the S. W. shore is the hamlet of Alexander Point, on Alemek Bay, 
opposite the populous village and magnificent harbor of Shippigan. There 
are valuable fisheries of herring, cod, and mackerel off these shores, and 
the deep triple harbor is Avell sheltered by the islands of Shippigan and 
Poclssuedie, forming a secure haven of refuge for the American and Cana- 
dian fleets. Noble wild-duck shooting here in spring and fall. 



64 Route 15. BAY OF CHALEUE. 

Sliippigan Harbor, though still surrounded bj' forests, has occupied a prom- 
inent place in the calculations of commerce and travel . It has been proposed that 
the Intercolonial Railway shall connect here with a transatlantic steamship line, 
thus withdrawing a large portion of the summer travel from Halifax and New York. 
The distance from Shippigan to Liverpool by the Straits of Belleisle is 148 M. less 
than the distance from Halifax to Liverpool, and Shippigan is 271 M. nearer Montreal 
than is Halifax. 

Tlie Ocean Ferry. — The following plan is ingeniously elaborated and pow- 
erfully supported, and 'is perhaps destined to reduce the transatlantic passage to 
100 hours. It is to be carried out with strong, swift express steamers on the Ocean 
and the Gulf, and through trains on the railways. The itinerary is as follow.'^ : 
London to Valentia, 640 M., 16 hours ; Valentia to St. John's, N. F., 1,640 M., 100 
hours; St. John's to St. George's Bay (across Newfoundland by railway) 250 M., 
8^ hours; St. George's Bay to Shippigan (across the Gulf), 250 M., 15^ hours; 
Shippigan to New York, 906 M., 31 hoiirs ; London to New York, 171 hours, or It 
days. It is claimed that this route would escape the dangers between Cape Race 
and New York ; would give usually quiet passages across the Gulf ; would diversify 
the monotony of the long voyage by three transfers, and would save 4-6 days on 
the recorded averages of the steamships between New York and Liverpool (see maps 
and details in Sandford Fleming's '' Intercolonial Railway Survey "). 

The steamer now crosses the Miscou Banks, and approaches Miscou 
Island, which is 20 M. in circumference and contains about 300 inhab- 
itants. On its S. shore is a fine and spacious harbor, which is much used 
as a place of refuge in stormy weather by the American fishing-fleets. 

Settlements were formed here early in the 17th century by the French, for the 
purpose of hunting the walrus, or sea-cow. Such an exterminating war was waged 
upon this valuable aquatic animal that it soon became extinct in the Gulf, and was 
followed into the Arctic Zone. Within five years a few walruses havebeen seen in 
the Gulf, and it is hoped' that they may once more enter these waters in droves. At 
an early date the Jesuits established the mission of St. Charles de Miscou, but the 
priests were soon killed by the climate, and no impression had been made on the 
Indians. It is claimed that there may still be seen the ruins of the post of the Royal 
Company of Miscou, which was founded in 1635 for the pursuit offish and walruses, 
and for a time derived a great revenue from this district. Fortifications were also 
erected here by M. Denys, Sieur de Fronsac. 

Tlie steamer alters her course gradually to the W. and passes the 
fixed red light on Birch Point, and Point Miscou, with its high green 
knoll. Between Point Miscou and Cape Despair, 25 M. N., is the en- 
trance to the Bay of Chaleur. 

The Bay of Chaleur was known to the Indians by the name of Echetuam 
Nemaache, signifying "a Sea of Fish," and that name is. still applicable, 
since the bay contains every variety of fish known on these coasts. It is 
90 M. long and from 10 to 25 M. wide, and is nearly free from shoals or 
dangerous reefs. The waters are compai-atively tranquil, and the air is 
clear and bracing and usually free from fog, aflbrding a marked contrast 
to the climate of the adjacent Gulf coasts. The tides are regular and have 
but little velocity. The length of the bay, from Point Miscou to Canip- 
bellton, is about 110 M. These waters are visited every year by great 
American fleets, manned by the hardy seamen of Cape Cod and Glouce - 
ter, and valuable cargoes of fish are usually carried back to the M;issa- 
chusetts ports. 



BATIIURST. Route 15. 65 

This bay was discovered by Jaques Cartier in the summer of 1535, and, from the 
fact that the heated season was at its height at that time, he named it La Btiie dcs 
Cha^eiiis (.tlie Bay of Iloatvs). On the earliest maps it is also called La Baie des 
Esjinano'.s, indicating that it Avas frequented by Spanish vessels, probably for the 
purposes of fishing. 

In these waters is located the scene of the old legend of the Massachusetts coast, 
relative to Skipper lreson"s misdeed, which, with the record of its punishment, has 
licen commemorated in the poetry of Whittier: — 

" Small pity for him I — He sailed away 
From a le'iiking ship in Chalcur Bay, — 
Sailed away from a sinking wreck,' 
With his own towns-people on iier deck I 
' Lay by : lay by : ' they called to him ; 
Back he answered, ' Sink or swim : 
Bras of your cateh of tish again ! ' 
And off he sailed through the fog and rain. 

Old Floyd Ireson, for his hard heart. 

Tarred and featiiered and carried in a cart 
By the women of Marblehead. 



' Fathoms deep in dark Chaleiir 
That wreck shall lie forevermore. 
Mother and sister, wife and maid. 
Looked from the rocks of Marblehead 
Over the moaning and rainy sen, — 
Looked fur the coming ihat might not be ! 
What did the winds and the sea-birds say 
Of the cruel captain who sailed away ? — 
Old Floyd Ireson, for liis hard heart, 
Ta'red iind feathered and carried in a cart 
By the women of Marblehead." 

Miscou has the best shooti' g- in Canada : plover in Aui^. and Sept. ; 
geese, ducks, and brant in Sept., Oct., and Nov. The Mai-Bay marshes 
are the best place. Guides and canoes, § 1 a day. Fredericton to Chat- 
ham Junction, 107 M. ; thence on Intercolonial Railway to Gloucester 
Junction, 45 M.; thence on Caraquet Ry. (see page 06), 50 M. to Caraquet; 
whence club-boat 15 M. to Miscou. Address D. Lee Babl)itt, Fredericton. 

Bathurst {Ktary House), the capital of Gloucester County, has 1,200 
inhabitants, and stands on a peninsula 2^ M. from the bay. Large quan- 
tities of fish are sent hence to the American cities; and the exportation of 
frozen salmon has become an important business. The Intercolonial Rail- 
way has a station near Bathurst. The beautiful Basin of Bathurst re- 
ceives the waters of four rivers, and its shores are already well populated 
by farmers. Pleasant drives and sailing routes amid Invelv scenery abound 
hereabouts, and give Bathurst a summer-resort air. It is 3 "M, to the fine 
beach of Alston Point, near which there are farm boarding-houses. 

The Basin of Bathurst was called by the Indians Winkapiguwick, or Nepisiguit, 
signifying the " Foaming Waters." It was occupied in 1638 by M. Enaud, a wealthy 
Basque gentleman, and his retainers, forming a town called St Pierre. Enaud mar- 
ried a Mohawk princess, founded mills, and estabUshed an extensive far-trade, erect- 
ing a commodious mansion at Abshaboo (Coal Point), at the mouth of tlie Nepisiguit. 
But some famiW troubles ensued, and Madame Enaud's brother slew her husband, 
after which the French settlements were phuidered by the Indians, and such of the 
inhabitants as could not escape by way of the sea were massacred. 

By 1670 the Chaleur shores were again studded with French hamlets, and occu- 
pied by an industrious farming population. In 1 j92 the Micmacs confederated 
against them, and, under the command of the sag;imore Hilion, completely devas- 
tated the whole district and compelled the settlers to fiy to Canada. Thenceforward 
for 74 years this country was unvisited by Europeans. In 1764 a Scotch trading- 
post and fort was erected at Alston Point, on the N shore of Bathurst harbor, and 
thence were exported great quantities of furs, moose-skins, walrus hides and tusks, 
and salmon. In 1776 this flourishing settlement was destroyed by American priva- 
teers, which also devastated the other shores of Chaleur. The present town wa-s 
founded in 1818 by Sir Howard Douglas, and was named in ionor of the Earl of 
Bathurst. 

The Nerjisigmt River empties into Bathurst harbor, and is famous for 
its fine fishing. The riparian owners have soid their fishing rights to Bos' 

E 



66 Route lb. CARAQUETTE. 

ton people, and to the Nepisiguit Angling Club of St. John, N. B., from 
whom a fishhig permit ma}^ be bouglit. A road ascends for 35 M., 
passing the Rough Waters, the brilliant rapids of the Pabineau Falls (9 M. 
up), the dark pools of the Betaboc reach, the Chain of Rocks, and the 
Narrows. The * Grand Falls of the Nepisiguit are 20 M. above Bathurst, 
and consist of 4 distinct and step-like cliffs, with a total height of 140 ft. 
They are at the head of the Narrows, where the river flows for 3-4 M. 
through a caiion between high cliffs of slaty rock. The river boldly takes 
the leap over this Titanic stairway, and the ensuing roar is deafening, 
while the base of the cliff is shrouded in white spray. From the profound 
depths at the foot the river Avhirls away in a black and foam-flecked 
course for 2 M. 

" Good by, lovely Nepisiguit, stream of the beautiful pools, the fisherman's 
elysium; farewell to thy merry, noisy current, thy long quiet stretches, thy high 
bluffs, thy wooded and thy rocky shores. Loog may thy music lull the innocent 
angler into day-dreams of happiness. Long may thy romantic scenery charm the 
eye and gladden the heart of the artist, and welcome the angler to a happy sylvan 
home." (Roosevelt.) 

The * Grand Falls of the Tete-i-gouche River are about 8 M. W. of Bathurst, and 
may be visited by carriage. The river here falls about 30 ft., amid a wild confusion 
of rocks and cliffs. 

The Caraquet Railway runs N.E. from Gloucester Junction to Bathurst, 
5M.; Salmon Beach, 9 M.; Janeville, 18; Canobie, 20; Clifton, 21 ; Stone- 
haven, 23; New Bandon, 25; Pockshaw, 28; Grand Anse, 31; Upper 
Caraquet, 46; Caraquet, 50; Lower Caraquet, ,53; Pokemouche. 02; SMp- 
pegan (Taylors Hotel), 70. (See also page 04.) This road follows the 
shores of the Nepisiguit Bay and gives frequent beautiful marine views over 
the Bay of Chaleur for nearly 30 M. The hamlets of Clifton (small inn) 
and Neio Bandon were settled by Irish immigrants, and are now er, gaged 
in making grindstones. Pockshaw has an inn and about 600 inhabitants. 
Grand Anse is an Acadian settlement, and has 700 inhabitants, who are 
engaged in farming and fishing. Thence the road runs 8 M. S. E. to Upper 
Caraquette, where there are about 600 Acadians. Lower Caraquette (two 
inns) is a French village of 1,500 inhabitants, and is famous for its strong, 
swift boats and skilful mariners. 

Caraquette was founded in 1768 by a colony of Bretons, and owed a part of its 
early growth to intermarriages with the Micmacs. It is a long street of farms m the 
old Acadian style, and is situated in a fruitful and well-cultivated country. The 
view from the hills over the village, and especially from the still venerated spot 
where the old chapel stood, is very pleasant, and includes Miscou and h^luppigan, 
the Gaspe ports, and the bold Quebec shores. The .lersey house of Robm ic Co. 
has one of its fishing-establishments here, and does a large business. 

Caraquette is one of the chief stations of the N. shore fisheries In the year 1873 
the fish prodiict of the three lower Maritime Provinces amounted to the value of 
$9 060,342. Nova Scotia caught |6,.')77,086 worth of fish; and New Brunswick 
caught $ 2,285,680 worth, of wliich ,ii! 527,312 wore of salmon, JF 500,306 of herring, 
$346 926 of lobsters, $ 338,699 of codfish, $ 108,511 of alev.ives, $90,065 of hake, 
$ 64,396 of pollock, $ 45,480 of oysters, $ 41.851 of smelt, and $ 35,477 of mackerel. 

The line of the highway, and the iioble-viewiu.ic railway track (with sevciai sta- 
tions) follow the coast of the Bay of Chaleur to the N. W. to Medisco ; Rochotre, 12 M. ; 
Belledune, 20; Belleduue River, 24; Armstrong's Brook, 28; River Louison. 33; 
New Mills, 38 ; River Charlo, 44 ; and Dalhousie, 52. Medisco and Rochette are 
French villages ; the others are of British origin, aud none of them have as many 



DALllOrSlE. Route 15. G7 

as 500 inhabitants. Many small streajns enter the bay from this coast, and the 
whole district is famous for its fishinu: and hunting (water-fowl). The line of this 
shore is: followed by the lutercolouial Railway. 

Oil" B:Uhurst the Bay of Chaleur is over 25 M. wide, and tlie steamer 
passes out and takes a course to the N. \V., passing the hamlet of Rochette, 
and soon rounding Belledune Point. The imposing highhmds of the Gas- 
pesian peninsula are seen on the N. witli the peak of Tracadiegash. 'I'he 
passage between Tracadiegash Point and Heron Ishmd is about 7 M. wide; 
and 6-8 M. beyond the steamer passes Maguacha Point {Jfaguacha, In- 
dian for "Always Red") on the r., and enters the Restigouche Harbor. 

" To the person approaching by steamer from the sea, is presented one of the 
most superb and fa.scinating panoramic views in Canada. The whole region is 
mountainous, and almost precipitous enough to be alpine; but its grandeur is 
derived less from cliffs, chasms, and peaks, than from far-reaching sweeps of out- 
line, and continually rising domes that mingle with the clouds. On the Gasp6 
.'Side precipitous cUffs of brick-red sandstone flank the shore, so lofty that they 
seem to cast their gloomy shadows half-way across the Bay, and yawning with 
rifts and gulhes, through which fretful torrents tumble into the sea. Behind 
them the mountains rise and fall in long undulations of ultramarine, and, tow- 
ering above them all, is the famous peak of Tracadiegash flashing in the sunlight 
like a pale blue amethyst." (Hallock.) 

Dalhousie (Murp'hy''s Hotel), a village of six hundred inhabitants, at the 

mouth of the long estuary of the Restigouche, is the capital of Restigouche 

County (see page 60). It faces on the harbor from three sides, and has 

great facilities for commerce and for handling lumber. The manufacture 

and exportation of lumber are here carried on on a large scale; and the 

town is also famous for its shipments of lobstei-s and salmon. The salmon 

fisheries in this vicinity are of great value and prndiictivoness. Tlie Inter- 

cohjiiial Railway has a short branch to Dalhoiisif station. The site of 

this port was called SicTcadomec by the Indians. 50 years ago there were 

but two log-houses here, but the district was soon occupied by hardy 

Highlanders from Arran, Avhose new port and metropolis was "located in 

an alpine wilderness." Directly back of the village is Mt. Dalhousie, 

and the hai'bor is protected by the high shores of Dalhousie Island. 

The Inch Arran House ($10-15 a week) is a fashionable summer-hotel, 1 M . 
from L>ajLaoUbie, opcncu in laio, on the beacn, wuh boating, Uatlun^', uowhng, tennis, 
bilhaids, etc. Open J une 16 lo Sept. ib. O rana scenery, ana crout and salmon iishmo'. 

" The Bay of Chaleur preserves a river-like character for some distance from the 
point where the river may strictly be said to terminate, and certainly offers the 

most beautiful scenery' to be seen in the Province From Mr. Fraser's to the 

sea, a distance of some 20 M. by water, or 14 by land, the course of the river is 
really beautiful. Swollen to dimensions of majestic breadth, it flows calmly on, 
amoug picturesque and lofty hills, undisturbed by rapids, and studded with in- 
numerable islands covered with the richest growth of elm and maple The 

whole of the distance from Campbellton to Dalhousie, a drive of 17 M. along the coa;fc 
of the Bay of Chaleur, on an excellent high-road, presents a succession of bcaudful 
views across the narrow bay, in which Tracadiegash, one of the highest of the Gasp(5 
mountains, always forms a conspicuous object, jutting forward as it does into the 
sea below Da'housie.'" (Hon. Arthur Gordon.) 

" Nothing can exceed the grandeur and beauty of the approach to the estuary of 
the Restigouche. The pointed hills in the background, the deep green forest with 
its patches of cultivation, and the clear blue of the distant mountains, form a pic- 
ture of the most exquisite kind.'' (Sir R. Bonnycastle.) 



68 Route 15. CAMPBELLTON. 

"The expanse of three miles across the mouth of the Restigouche, the dreamy 
alpine land beyond, and the broad plain of the Bay of Chaleur, present one of the 
most splendid and fascinating panoramic prospects to be found on the continent of 
America, and has alone rewarded us for the pilgrimage we have made." (Charles 
Lanman.) 

The estuary of the Eestigouche is 2-4 M. wide, and extends from Dal- 
housie to Campbellton, about 16 M. Point a la Garde is 9 M. above Dal- 
housie on the N. shore, and is a bold perpendicular promontory overlooking 
the harbor. On this and Battery Point (the next to the W.) were the 
extensive French fortifications which were destroyed by Admiral Byron's 
British squadron in 1780. Several pieces of artillery and other relics have 
been obtained from the water off these points. Battery Point is a rocky 
promontory 80 ft. high, with a plain on the top, and a deep channel around 
its shores. Point Pleasant is 4 M. distant, and 1 M. back is a spiral mass 
of granite 700 ft. high, which is accessible b}' natural steps on the E. 1.^ 
M. from this peak is a pretty forest-lake, in which red trout are abundant. 
5 M. N. of Point a la Garde is the main peak of the Scaumenac Mts., which 
attains an altitude of 1,745 ft. 

Campbellton {Northern House) is in a diversified region of hills at 
the head of deep-water navigation on tlie Restigouche, which is here 1 M . 
wide. 

One of the chief stations of the Intercolonial Railway is lo- 
cated here. The adjacent countr}' is highly picturesque, and is studded 
with conical hills, the chief of which is Sugar Loaf, 900 ft. high. 

Mission P lint is nearly opposite Campbellton, and is surrounded by fine 
hill-scenery, which has been likened to that of Wales. The river is rapid 
off these shores, and abounds in salmon. This place is also known as 
Point-a-la-Croix, and is one of the chief villages and reservations of the 
Micmac Indians. It has about 500 inhabitants, with a Catholic church. 

The Micmac language is said to be a dialect of the Huron tongue ; while the Mili- 
cetes, on the St. John River, speak a dialect of Delaware origin. These two tribes 
have an annual council at Mis!^ion Point, at which delegates from the Penobscot 
Indians are in attendance. The Micmac nation occupies the waste places of the 
Maritime Provinces, from Newfoundland to Gaspt^, and numbers over 6,000 souls. 
These Indians are dariag and tireless hunters and fishermen, and lead a life of con- 
stant roving, gathering annually at the local capitals, .— Chapel Island, in Cape 
Breton; Ponhook Lake, in Nova Scotia; and Mission Point, in Quebec. They are 
increasing steadily in numbers, ai d are becoming more valuable members of the 
Canadian nation. They have hardly yet recovered from the terrible defeat which 
was inflicted on tliem by an invading army of Mohawks, in 1639. The flower of the 
Maritime tribes hastened to the border to repel the enemy , but they were met by 
the Mohawks in the Restigouche country, and were anniiiilated on the field of 
battle. 

The chief of the Micmacs at Mission Point visited Queen Victoria in ISijO.ana was 
kindly welcomed ai:d received jniiuy presents. When Lord A\luier, Governor Gen- 
eral of Canada, visited Gas p(5, he was waited on by 500 Indinns, whose chief made 
him a long harangue. But the tribe had recently recovered from a wrcc k (among 
other things) a box of decantei--l;ibels, marked Rum, Rraapy, Gin , etc. , ami the noble 
chief, not knowing their purport, had adorned his ears and nose with them, and 
Burrounded his head with a crown of the same materials. AVhcn the British officers 
recognized the familiar names, they burst into such a peal of laughter as drove the 
astonished and incensed chief from their presence forever. 



RESTIGOrOHE RIVER. nnutr 15. G9 

3 M. above Mission Point is Pvint au Bourdo, the nncient site of La 

Petite Roclielle, deriving its present name from Capt. Bourdo, of the French 

frigate Marchmdt, wlio was killed in the battle otT this point and was 

buried here. Fragments of the French vessels, old artillery, camp equip' 

ments, and shells have been found in great nnmbers in this vicinity. 

Tn 1760 Restigouche was ileft-ndccl b^' 2 batteries, garrisoned by 250 French regu- 
lars, TOO Acadiaus, aud 700 Indians ; and iu t!>o harbor lay the Frencli war-vessels 
Marrkaidt, 32, Bitiijhisaiil, 22, aud Manjiiis Marloije, IS, with 19 prize-ships wliich 
had been captured from the Euglisli. The place was attacked by a po.verful Britisli 
lleet, consisting of the Fame, ~i, Dor.'^etshirf, Scarborougli, Achilles, and Repulse, all 
under the command of Commodore John Byron (grandfather of the poet, Lord By- 
ron). But little resistance was attempted; and the French fleet and batteries sur- 
rendered to their formidnble antagonist. The captured ships were carried to Louis- 
bourg, and the batteries and the 200 houses of Restigouche were destroyed. 

The Restigouclie River is a stately stream which is navigable for 135 
M. above Carapbellton. It runs through level lands for several miles above 
its mouth, and then is enclosed between bold and rugged shores. There 
are hundreds of low and level islands of a rich and yearly replenished soil; 
and above the Tomkedgwick are wide belts of intervale. 30 M. from its 
mouth it receives the waters of the ^letapedia River, flowing down from 
the ]Metis ^Its. ; and 35 M. from the mouth is the confluence of the trout- 
abounding Upsalquitch. 21 M. farther up is the mouth of the Patapedia; 
and 20 M. beyond this point the Tomkedgwick comes in from the N. W. 
This system of waters drains over 6,000 square miles of territory, and is 
connected by portages with the streams which lead into the Bay of Fundy 
and the River St. Lawrence. The Restigouche is famous for its great and 
gamy salmon, and for trout, the fisheries being owned by wealthy clubs, 
largely of Americans. 

The Metapedia Road leaves the N. shoi-e of the Restigouche a few miles 
above Campbellton, and strikes through the forest to the N. W. for the St. 
Lawrence River. This is the route of the new Intercolonial Railway, 
which passes up through the wilderness to St. Flavie. The distance from 
Campbellton to St. Flavie is 106 M,, and the railway-fare is $ 3. This 
road leads across the barren highlands of Gaspe, and through one of the 
most thinly settled portions of Canada. 

The French hamlet of St. Alexis is near the mouth of the Metapedia 
River. Mttapedia is 15 M. above Campbellton, and is situated amid the 
pretty scenery at the confluence of the Metapedia and Restigouche River-. 
The salmon-fisheries in this vicinity attract enthusiastic sportsmen everj' 
year. Near the confluence is the old Fraser mansion, famous among the 
travellers of earlier days, and now pertaining to the Restigouche Salmon 
Chib. The Intercolonial Railway crosses the Restiirouche in this vicinity, 
and has a station at Metapedia. 60 M. beyond is Metapedia Lake. 

The Metapedia Lake is 12 M. long by 2 M. wide, and is surrounded by 
low shores of limestone, above and beyond which are distant ranges of 
highlands. Its waters abound in tuladi (gray trout), trout, and white-fish, 



70 Route 16. ST. JOHN TO HALIFAX. 

and afford good sporting. The lake contains a large island, which is a 
favorite breeding-place of loons. 

St. Flavie (two inns) is a village of 450 French people, situated on the 
S. shore of the River St. Lawrence, and is the point where the Litercolonial 
Railway reaches the river and turns to the S. W. towards Quebec. 

Bic, Rimouski, and other stations along the St. Lawrence, are described 
on pages 250-254. 

16. St. John to Amherst and Halifax. 

The Intercolonial Railway. 

This route traverses the S. E. counties of New Brunswick, passes the isthmus at 
the head of the Bay of Fundy, and after crossing the Cobequid Mts. and rounding 
the head of Cobequid Bay, runs S. W. to the city of Halifax. It traverses some in- 
teresting districts and has a few ghmpses of attractive scenery, but the views are 
generally monotonous and without any striking beauties. During calm and pleasant 
■weather the traveller will find the Annapolis route (see Route 18) much the pleas- 
anter way to go from St. John to Halifax. 

There is no change of cars between St. John and Halifax, and baggage is checked 
through During the summer there is a day express-train, leaving St. John at 7 
A. M., and due at Halifax at 7.40 p. m. ; and a night express, leaving St. John at 8.30 
p. M., and due at Halifax at 9 A. M. Pullman-cars have been introduced on 

this line. 

Stations. — St. John ; Moosepath, 3 M. ; Brookville, 5; Torryburn, 6 ; River- 
side, 7 ; Rothesay, 9 ; Quispamsis , 12 ; Nauwigewauk,17 ; Hampton, 22; Pas?ekeag, 
26; Bloomfield, 27; Norton, 33; Apohaqui, 39; Sussex, 44; Plumweseep, 47; 
Penobsquis, 51; Anagance, 60 ; Petitcodiac, 66; Pollet River, 71; Salisbury, 76; 
Boundary Creek, 79 ; Moncton, 89 ; Humphrey, 91 ; Painsec Junction, 97 (Dorches- 
ter Road, 102 ; Shediac, 106 ; Point du Chene, 108) ; Meadow Brook, 101 ; Memram- 
cook, 108; Dorchester, 116: Sackville, 127: Aulac, 131; Amherst, 188 : Nappan, 
144; Maccan,147; Athol, 151 ; Spring Hill, 156 ; Salt Springs, 164; River Philip, 
167; Thompson, 174 ; Greenville, 181; Went worth, 187 ; Folly Lake, 191 ; London- 
derry, 199; Debert, 204; Ishgonish, 208; Truro, 216; Johnson, 220; Brookfield, 
224 ; Polly Bog, 229 ; Stewiacke, 233 ; Shubenacadie, 238 ; Milford, 242 ; Elmsdale, 
247; Enfield, 249; Grand Lake, 254 ; Wellington, 256 ; Windsor Junction, 264 ; 
Rocky Lake, 266; Bedford, 269 ; Four-Mile House, 278 ; Halifax, 276. 

Fares from St. John. — To Sussex, 1st class, $ 1.32, — 2d class, 88c. ; to Moncton, 
1st class, $2-67, — 2d class, $1.78 ; to Shediac, 1st class, S^3, — 2d class, ^ 2 ; to 
Amherst, l«t class, % 3.78, — 2d class, % 2.52 ; to Truro, 1st class, $ 5.02, ~2d class, 
$3.35; to Halifax, 1st class, $6, — 2d clasf', $4. 

Fare.'i from Halifax.— To Truro, 1st class, SI 86, - 2d class, $1.24 : to Pictou, 
1st class, "$3.18. —2d class. $2.12; to Amherst, 1st class, $3.78, —2d class, $2.52 ; 
to Shediac, 1st class, $4.56, — 2d class, $3.04; to Sussex, 1st class, $5 31, --2d 
class, $ 3 54 ; to St. John, 1st class, $ 6, — 2d class, $ 4. 

Way-passengers can estimate their expenses easily on the basis of 3c. per mile for 
1st class, and 2c. per mile for 2d class tickets, which is the tariff fixed hy the 
Canadian Government for all distances of less than 100 M. on its national rail- 
ways. 

On leaving the Valley station, in the city of St. John (see page 19), the 

train passes out into the Marsh Valley, which is ascended foi- several miles 

(see page 22). A short distance beyond Moosepath Park the line crosses 

Lawlor's LaJce on an embankment which cost heavih'-, on accouv.t of the 

great depth to which the ballasting sunk. The Kennebeeasis Bay is soon 

seen, on the 1., and is skirted for 5 M., passing the villas of Rothesay (see 

page 22), and giving pleasant views over the broad waters. Qulspam- 



SUSSEX VALE. Route W. 71 

sis station is 3 M. S. of Gondola Point, whence a ferry crosses the Ken- 
nebecasis to the pretty hamlet of Clifton. The narrowing valley is now 
followed to the N. E., with occasional glimpses of the river on the 1. 
Hitmpton (two hotels) is the shire-town of Kings County, whose new pub- 
lic buildings are seen to the r. of the track. It is a thriving village of re- 
cent origin, and is visited in sunnuer by tlie people of St. Jolni, ou account 
of the hill-scenery in the vicinity. 

St. Martin's, or Quaco, is about 30 M. S. E., on the Ba)' of Fundy, and is now 
coniieited with Hampton by railway. (It is also visited by daily stajje 

from St. John in 32 M., fare S 1 50 ; a rugged road) This is one of the chief ship- 
building towns in the province, and has over 1,000 inhabitants, with several churches 
and other public buildings. It was originally settled by the King's Orange Rangers, 
and has recently become a favorite point for summer excursions from St. John. 
The hotel accommodation is inferior. S. of the village is the tall lighthouse on 
Quaco llead, sustaining a revolving white light The name Quaco is a contraction 
of the Indian words Gulwahgnhgre, meaning " the Home of the Sea-cow."' 

The shores about Quaco are bold and picturesque, fronting the Bay with lofty 
iron-bound clitfs, among which are small strips of stony beaches. The strata are 
highly inclined and in some cases are strangely contorted, while their shelves and 
crevices are adorned with pine-trees. Qiidco Head is 2 M. from St. Martin's, and 
is 350 ft. high, surrounded by cliffs of red sandstone 250 ft in height. This bold 
promontory rises directly from the sea, and is crowned by forests. The harbor of 
Quaco is rather pretty, whence it has been likened to the Bay of Naples. Tracifs 
Lake is about 5 M. from Quaco, on the Loch Lomond road, and is noted for au 
abundance of trout. 10-12 M N. of the village is the Mount Theobald Lake, a 
small round forest-pool in which trout are found in great numbers. 

Hampton station is 1 M. from the village of Hampton Ferry, and beyond 
liloonitiehl tlie train reaches Norton, whence a railway runs to Grand Lake. 
Apohaqui (Apohaqiii Hotel) is a village of 300 inhabitants, on the upper 
K<MMiebpcasis, and at the mouth of the Mill-stream Valley. 

The train now reaches Sussex {Intercolonial Hotel), a pleasant vilUige 
of -400 inhabitants, whence the famous farm-lauds of the Sussex Vale 
stretch off to the S. E. along the course of Trout Brook. There are sev- 
eral hamlets (with inns) amid the pleasant rural scenery of the Vale, and 
good trout-fishing is found on the smaller streams. 8 M. up is the pros- 
perous settlement of Seeley's Mills, with 650 inhabitants. 

The Sussex Tale was settled by the military corps of the New Jersey Loyalists 
(most of whom were Germans), soon after the Revolutionary War, and it is now 
occupied, for the most part, by their descendants. "Good roads, well-executed 
bridges, cleared land, excellent crops, comfortable houses, higli-bred cattle and 
horses, good conveyances public and private, commodious churches, well-taughfc 
schools, well-provided inns, and an intelligent, industrious people, all in the midsb 
of scenery lofty, soft, rounded, beautifully varied with hill and valley, mount nu 
and meadow, forest and flood, have taken the place of the pathless wilderness, the 
endless trees, the untaught Indian, and the savage moose." (Prop. Johxston.) 

Beyond Plumweseep occasional glimpses of the long low ridge of Picca- 
dilly Mt. are obtained on the r., and Mt. Pisgah is just N. of Penobsquis 
station (small inn), which is the seat of the New Brunswick Paper Manu- 
facturing Co. and of several salt-works. Tri-weekly stages run hence 32 
M. S. E. to the maritime village of Alma, on the Bay of Fundy, 5 M 
N. W. of the shipping-port of Foint Wolf (Stevens's Hotel). 



72 RmitelG. MONCTON. 

Petitcodiac {Mansard House; Central Hotel) is 15 M. beyond Penob- 
squis, and is a busy village of 400 inhabitants, many of whom are con- 
nected with the lumber-trade. 5 M. S. E. is the PoUett River village, near 
which there is good trouting. In this vicinity are the Pollett Falls, where 
the river, after flowing through a narrow defile between lofty and rugged 
hills, falls over a line of sandstone ledges, and then whirls away down a 
dark gorge below. The caverns, crags, and eroded fronts of the sand- 
stone cliff's form picturesque bits of scenery. 

15-18 M. N. of Petitcodiac are the famous fishing-grounds of the 
Canaan River. The railway now descends the valley of the Petitcodiac 
Elver, which was settled after the Revolutionary War by Germans from 
Pennsylvania who remained loyal to Great Britain, Salisbury (two inns) 
is a pleasant village of 300 inhabitants. 

Leaving Salisbury, the Albert Railway runs 45 M S. E. through the vil- 
lages of Hillsboro. Albert Mines, and Riverside, to Albert, the terminus of the 
hue. Hillsboro, a busy Tillage of TOO inhabitants, has 2 hotels, and is a port from 
wnich schooners and ships transport tlie plaster manufactured here in large quan- 
tities. Albert Mines, once the most valuable coal-mines known, have lately closed, 
the supply being exhausted. The village of Rivei sidt may be said to be a part of 
th(! village of Albert, the latter being the larger. Albert is the busiest and most 
picturesque part of the county. It has 3 hotels, a weekly paper {The Maple Lei'f), 
15 general stores, carriage and furniture manufactories, etc At this point all the 
principal highways centre, and it receives the greater part of the county's trade. 
From the Albert terminus, a railway runs S. 3-4 M to Harvey (orner and i/«r- 
i'ey i?rt?i/v, where shipbuilding is extensively carried on' Roc her and Ca} e Enrage 
lie to the 8. W., on the shore of the Bay of Fundy. The Cape is supplied with a 
fixed light and steam fog-whistle. Continuing on E. from Harvey Bank you come 
to Mary's Point, the famous freestone quarries of the Provinces and a beautiful- 
summer resort. Another railway runs 18 M. S. W. froniHarveyto Alma, a beau- 
tiful village on the bay shore Between Albert and Hillsboro is a village of some 
importance, Hopewell Cape, where are sitnnted the court-house, jail, and regis- 
try offices. She]>o(ly Mountain is the highest in the county (1 050 ft.), and gives 
a magnificent view of Albert and T\"estmoreland Counties. The whole region is 
iich in mines and quarries, and supplies the tourist with very good scenery, fisuing, 
and game. Branch railways run from Petitcodiac to lillgin aud Havelock. 

Beyond Salisbury the Halifax train runs 13 M. X E. to Moncton {Hotel 

Brunsivick), the headquarters of the Intercolonial Kailwaj^ and the site 

of its extensive machine-shops. It is well laid out, and has 10 churches, 

2 daih- papers, and large manufacturing works. Its situation at the head 

of navigation on the Petitcodiac gives certain commercial advantages, and 

affords opportunity for the visitor to see the great "Pore," or tide-wave, 

of the Bav of Fundy. At the beginning of the flood-tide a wall of water 

4-6 ft. high, sweeps up the river, and within 6 hours the stream rises TO ft 

The Intercolonial Railway runs N. from Moncton, and is completed to meet the 
Canadian Railway system at Riviere du Loup. It passes through o;- near the chi^-f 
towns of the North Shore, and follows the Bay of Chalcur for many miles. See 
page 59 a. A railroad runs from Moncton to Buctouche, 32 M. 

.Mu'icton has 7.000 inhabi'ants, a sugar refinery, cotton, \arn, shoe, loclc, anj 
knitting fMCtories, electric lights, wnter works, nn rpera hou.-^e, etc 

The Halifax train runs out to the N. E. from Moncton, and after p.issmg 

Fainsec Junction (see page 59) deflects to the S E. into the Memramcook 



SACKVILLE. Route IG. 73 

Vallev. It soon reaches the connected vllhiges of Memrameook and St. 
Joseph (three inns), occupying the centre of a prosperous farming district 
^vhich is inliabited by over 1,000 Acadians, — a pious and simple-hearted 
Catholic peasantry, — a large portion of whom belong to the prolific fami- 
lies of Leblanc, Cormier, Gandet, and Bouque. On the opposite shore is 
the College of St. Joseph de jMcmramcook, where about 100 students 
(mostly from Canada and the United States) are conducted through a 
high-school curriculum by 12 friars and ecclesiastics. Near the college 
is the handsome stone Church of St. Joseph de Memrameook. 

The Valley of the Memrameook, down which the train descends to Dor- 
chester, possesses one of the most charming landscapes in the country. 
Two high parallel ridges, wooded and well settled, are seen on either 
hand, while the valley itself, like the Tantramar Marshes, is a dead level, 
miles in length, being made up from the sea by tidal deposits, and in June 
it is an ocean of bright green. Dorcliester {Dorchester Hotel) is a pros- 
perous village of 800 inhabitants, situated near the month of the river 
and among the finest wheat-lands in New Brunswick. Dorchester has 4 
churches, the public buildings of Westmoreland County, and numerous 
pleasant residences. On the opposite side of the Memrameook, at Rock- 
land, are quarries of freestone, several thousand tons of which are shipped 
annually to Boston and New York. Shipbuilding and shipowning is the 
leading business. The traveller by train is surprised to ?ee vessels of 
1,000 tons, being built in the woods, two miles from apparent water. 
They are launched at high-tides into a creek at hand. A large and im- 
posing freestone building on tlie heights above the town is the Dominion 
Penitentiary for the Maritime Provinces. 

A ferry crosses Shepody Bay to Hopewell Cape (see page 72); and G-8 M. W. of 
Dorchester is Belliveau village, nine tenths of whose inhabitants belong to the fami- 
lies of Belliveau, Gautreault, and Melan^on. This settlement was named in honor 
of the venerable M. Belliveau, whose long life extended from 1730 to 1840. In 1776 
many of the Acadians of this vicinity joined the New England forces under Col. 
Eddy, who occupied Sackville and attacked Fort Cumberland (see page 78). 

The train now runs E. 12 M. from Dorchester to Sackville {Brunsivich 
House), a rising and prosperous village of about 1,500 inhabitants, situated 
on a red sandstone slope at the mouth of the Tantramar i River, near the 
head of the Bay of Fundy. It ha* .ship-yards, a stove foundry, a news- 
paper, and 8 churches. Sackville is the seat of the Mount Allison Wes- 
leyan College, an institution which was founded by Mr. C F. Allison, and 
is conducted by the Wesleyan Conference of Eastern British America. It 
includes a small college, a theological hall, and academies for boys and 
girls. A road leads from Sackville S. E. down the rugged headland be- 
tween Cumberland Basin and Shepody Bay, passing the marine hamlets 
of Woodpoint (5 M.), Rockport (12 M.), and N. Joggins, 14 ]\I. from Sack- 
ville, and near the highlands of Cape Marangouin. 

1 Tantramar, from the French word Tintamnrre, meaning " a thundering noise." 
4 



74 Route 16. TANTRAMAR MARSH. 

Sackville is the point established for the outlet of the projected B^iie Terte 
Canal, a useful work 18 M. long, which would allow vessels to pass f^om the Bay 
of Fundy to the Gulf of St. Lawrence without having to round the iron-bound pe- 
ninsula of Nova Scotia. This canal has been planned and desired for over a cen- 
tury, but nothing has yet been done, except the surveying of the istlxaius. Tri- 
weekly stages run N. E. along the telegraph-road from Sackville to Jolicoeur (10 M ), 
Bale Verte Road (14 M.), Baie Verte (18 M., small inn), and Port Elgin (20 M. ; inn). 
About 16 M. N. E. of Port Elgin is Cape iormeiitiiie, " the great headland 
which forms the E. extremity of New Brunswick within the Gulf Indian Point 
may be said to form the southei'n, and Cape Jourimain the northern points of this 
headland, which is a place of importance in a nautical point of view, not only from 
its position, but from its dangerous and extensive shoals." The submarine tele- 
graph to Prince Edward Island crosses from Cape Jourimain ; and it is from thi.s 
point that the winter mail-service is conducted, when the mails, passengers, and 
baggage are subjected to an exciting and perilous transit in ice-boats to Cape Trav- 
erse. Baie Verte is 9 M. wide and 11 M. deep, but affords no good shelter. It re- 
ceives the Tignish and Gaspereau Rivers, and at the mouth of the latter are the 
ancient ruins of Fort Moncton. 

About 200 students attend the Mount-Allison Educational Institution. 
Sackville possesses 40 square miles of marsh lands, that produce enormous 
crops of grasses. Large shipments of hay and cattle are made from here; 
the latter to the English markets. The bogs and lakes at the head of the 
marshes are haunts of snipe and duck, and are a favorite resort of sports- 
men. Sackville has a Music Hall. The New-Brunswick & Prince- 
Edward-Island Railway runs from Sackville to Cape Tormentine, stop- 
ping at intermediate points (see above). This is the winter mail-route to 
P. E. Island. 

At Sackville the Halifax train crosses the Tantramar River, and runs 
out over the wide Tantramar Marsh, to Aulac, or Cole's Island (stage to 
Cape Tormentine), near which it crosses the Aulac River. Trains are 
sometimes blocked in on these plains during the snow-storms of winter, 
and the passengers are subjected to great hardships. The Missiguash. 
River is next crossed, with the ruins of Fort Beausejour (Cumberland) on 
the N., and of Fort Beaubassin (Lawrence) on the S. These forts are best 
visited from Amherst, which is 4-5 M. distant, and is reached after trav- 
ersing the Missiguash Harsh. The Missiguash River is the boundary 
between New Brunswick and Nova Scotia, and Amherst is the first town 
reached in the latter Province. 

Fort Lawrence is the W. terminus of the proposed Chignecto Marine 
Railway, whereby it is intended to carry ships of 1,000 tons with their 
cargoes between the Straits of Northumberland and the Bay of Fundy, 
a distance of 17 M. The Canadian Government has subsidized the pro- 
ject with $150,000 per annum for 25 years, and an English Company- 
began work in 1883. This scheme is a substitute for the Baie Verte 
Canal, which was abandoned in 1875. 

Amherst to Halifax, see Route 17. 



XOYA SCOTIA. 



The Province of Nova Scotia is peninsular in location, and is connected 
with the mainland by an isthmus 8 M. wide. It is bounded on the N. by 
the Bay of Fundy, the Strait of Northumberland, and theGulf of St. Law- 
rence; on the E. and S. by the Atlantic Ocean; and on the W. by tlie 
ocean, the Bay of Fundy, and the Province of New Brunswick. Its length, 
from Cape Canso to Cape St. Mary, is 383 M., and its breadth varies from 
50 M. to 104 !M. The area of the peninsula is 16,000 square miles. The 
population is 450,523, of whom 117,487 are Roman -Catholics, 112,000 Pres- 
byterians, 83,500 Baptists, G0,255 Church of England people, 51,000 Metho- 
dists, and 68 Unitarians. 405,000 are natives of Nova Scotia, and 21,000 
from the British Islands. 

" Acadie is much warmer in summer and much colder in winter than 
the countries in Europe lying under the same parallels of latitude" 
(Southern France, Sardinia, Lombardy, Genoa, Venice, Northern Tur- 
key, the Crimea, and Circassia). "The spring season is colder and the 
autumn more agreeable than those on the opposite side of the Atlantic. 
Its climate is favorable to agriculture, its soil generally fertile. The land 
is well watered by rivers, brooks, and lakes. The supply of timber for 
use and for exportation may be considered as inexhaustible. The fish- 
eries on the coasts are abundant, Tte harbors are numerous and excel- 
lent. Wild animals are abundant, among which are remarkable the moose, 
caribou, and red deer. Wild fowl also are plenty. Extensive tracts of 
alluvial land of great value are found on the Bay of Fundy. These lands 
have a natural richness that dispenses with all manuring; all that is 
wanted to keep them in order is spade-work. As to cereals, — wheat, 
rye, oats, buckwheat, maize, all prosper. The potato, the hop, flax, and 
hemp are everywhere prolific. The vegetables of the kitchen garden are 
successfully raised. Of fruit there are many wild kinds, and the apple, 
pear, plum, and cherry seem almost indigenous, . The vine thrives; good 
grapes are often raised in the open air. It was said by a French writer 
that Acadie produced readily everything that grew in Old France, except 
the olive. 

" In the peninsula, or Acadie proper, there is an abundance of mineral 
wealth. Coal is found in Cumberland and Pictou; iron ore, in Colchester 
and Annapolis Counties; gypsum, in Hants; marble and limestone, in dif- 
ferent localities; freestone, for building, at Remsheg (Port Wallace) and 



76 NOVA SCOTIA. 

Pictpu ; granite, near Halifax, Shelburne, etc. ; brick clay, in the counties 
of Halifax and Annapolis. Tf'e amethysts of Parrsborough and its vicin- 
ity have been long celebrated, and pearls have been found lately in the 
Annapolis River. The discovery of gold along the whole Atlantic shore of 
the peninsula of Nova Scotia has taken place since 1860, and it now gives 
steady remunerative employment to about 800 or 1,000 laborers, with 
every expectation of its expansion." (Beamish Murdoch.) The pro- 
duction of gold from the Nova-Scotia mines amounts to $400,000 a year. 

In 1881, Nova Scotia had 440,572 inhabitants, of whom 146,027 are of 
Scotch origin, 128,986 English, 66,067 Irish, 41,219 French. Of these, 
117,487 are Eoman Catholics, 112,488 Presbyterians, 83,761 Baptists, 
60,255 of the Church of England, and 50 811 Methodists. 

The territory now occupied by the Maritime Provinces was known for 
nearly two centuries by the name of Acadie,'^ and was the scene of fre- 
quent wars between Britain and France. Its first discoverers were the 
Northmen, about the year 1000 a. d., and Sebastian Cabot rediscovered 
it in 1498. In 1518 and 1598 futile attempts were made by French nobles 
to found colonies here, and French fishermen, fur-traders, and explorers 
frequented these shores for over a century. In 1605 a settlement was 
founded at Port Royal, after the discoveries of De Monts and Champlain, 
but it was broken up in 1618 by the Virginians, who claimed that Acadia 
belonged to Britain by virtue of Cabot's discovery. In 1621 James I. 
of England granted to Sir Wihiam Alexander the domain called Nova 
Scotia, including all the lands E. of a line drawn from Passamoquoddy 
Bay N. to the St. Lawrence; but this claim was renounced in 1632, and 
the rival French nobles. La Tour and D'Aulnay, commenced their fratri- 
cidal wars, each striving to be sole lord of Acadie. In 1654 the Province 
was captured by a force sent out by Cromwell, but the Fi-ench interest 
soon regained its former position. 

The order of the Baronets of Nova Scotia was founded by King Charles 
I., in 1625, and consisted of 150 well-born gentlemen of Scotland, who re- 
ceived, with their titles and insignia, grants of 18 square miles each, in the 
wide domains of Acadia. These manors were to be settled by the baronets 
at their own expense, and were expected in time to yield handsome 
revenues. But little was ever accomplished by this order. Meantime 
Cardinal Richelieu founded and became grand master of a more powerrr.l 
French association called the Company of Now France (1627). It cun- 

1 Acadia is the Anglicized (or Latinized) form of Acadie, an Indian word sipnifving 
"tlie place," or "the region." It is a part of the compound words Segeelwti-acadic li^iiu- 
benacadic', meaning " place of wild potatoes "; Tulhik-radir (Tracndie , ineaning " dwelliiip- 
place"; Sun-dcadie, or "place of cranberries'; Kitpoo-acculi: . or " phu'e o1 englos and 
others of similar form. The Milicete tribes pioiKuuiced tiiis word " Qiioddy, \ylience 
Vestwuoo-uuoddy (Passamoquoddy, meaning " I'lace of \)Mw\<^' ■. Aooui-qijoddii. or 
"place of seals," etc. When a British otHcer was descending the l^hubenaciulie with a Mic- 
mac guide, he inquired how the name originated ; the Indian answered. " Because plenty 
wild potatoes — --codeben — once grew liere." " Well, ' acadie,' Paul, what does that mean ? 
" Means — where you find em," rejoined the Micmac. 



NOVA SCOTIA. 77 

sisted of 100 members, who received Acadia, Quebec, Florida, and New- 
Ibundhind " in simple homage,'* and had power to erect duchies, marquis- 
ates, and seigniories, subject to the royal appi-oval. They allowed French 
Catholics only to settle on these lands, and were protected by national 
frigates. This order continued for 40 years, and was instrumental in 
founding numerous villages along the Nova-Scotian coast. 

In 1690 the New-Knglanders overran the Province and seized the for- 
tresses, but it was restored to France in 1697. In 1703 and 1707 unsuc- 
cessful expeditions were sent from Massachusetts against the Acadian 
strongholds, but they were finally captured in 1710; and in 1713 Nova 
Scotia was ceded to Great Britain bj' the Treaty of tJtrecht. The Prov- 
ince was kept in a condition of disorder for the next 40 years, by the dis- 
affection of its French population and the lawlessness of the Indians, and 
the British fortresses were often menaced and attacked. After the founda- 
tion of Halifax, in 1749, a slow tide of immigi-ation set in and strengthened 
the government. In 1755 the French people in the Province (7,000 in num- 
ber) were suddenly seized and transported to the remote American colo- 
nies, and the French forts on the Baie-Vcrte frontier were captured. 

In 1758 the first House of Assembly met at Halifax, and in 1763 the 
French power in America was finally and totally crushed. At the close 
of the Kevolution, 20,000 self-exiled Americans settled in NoVa Scotia; 
and in 1784 New Brunswick and Cape Bi-eton were withdrawn and made 
into separate provinces (Cape Breton was reunited to Nova Scotia in 1820). 
During the Revolution and the War of 1812 Halifax was the chief station 
of the British navy, and the shores of the Province were continually 
harassed by American privateers. 

In 1864 a convention was held at Charlottetown, P. E. I., to consider 
measures for forming a federal union of the Maritime Provinces. During 
the session Canadian delegates were admitted, on the request of the St. 
Lawrence Provinces ; and a subsequent congress of all the Provinces was 
held at Quebec, at which the plan of the Dominion of Canada was elabo- 
rated. It is now thought that this quasi-national government does not fulfil 
all the original wishes of the seaboard regions, and that it may be well to 
unite (or reunite) the Maritime Provinces into one powerful province 
called Acadia, by which the expense of three local legislatures and cabi- 
nets could be saved, their homogeneous commercial interests could be 
favored by uniform laws, and the populous and wealthy Provinces of Que- 
bec and Ontario could be balanced in the Dominion Parliament. 



" There are perhaps no Provinces in the world possessing finer harbors, 
or furnishing in greater abundance all the conveniences of life. The climate 
is quite mild and very healthy, and no lands have been found that are not 

of surpassing fertility Finally, nowhere are there to be seen forests 

more beautiful or with wood better fitted for buildings and masts. There 



78 Route 17. AMHERST, 

are in some places copper mines, and in others of coal The fish most 

commonly caught on the coast are the cod, salmon, mackerel, herring, 
sardine, shad, trout, gotte, gaparot, barbel, sturgeon, goberge, — all fish 
that can be salted and exported. Seals, walruses, and whales are found 

in great numbers The rivers, too, are full of fresh-water fish, and the 

banks teem with countless game." (Father Charlevoix, 1765.) 

"Herewith I enter the lists as the champion of Nova Scotia Were 

I to give a first-class certificate of its general character, I would afiirm that 
it yields a greater variety of products for export than any territory on the 
globe of the same superficial area. This is saying a great deal. Let ixs 
see : she has ice, lumber, ships, salt-fish, salmon and lobsters, coal, iron, 
gold, copper, plaster, slate, grindstones, fat cattle, wool, potatoes, apples, 
large game, and furs." (Charles Hallock, 1873.) 



17. St. John to Amherst and Halifax. 

St. John to Amhei'st, see preceding route. 

Amherst ' (Amherst Hotel) is a fiourishing town midway 

between St, John and Halifax (138 M. from each). It is the capital of 
Cumberland County, Nova Scotia, and is pleasantly situated at the head 
of the Cumberland Basin, one of the great arms of the Bay of Fundy. It 
has 4,500 inhabitants, and is engaged in the lumber trade ; while the im- 
mense area of fertile meadows about the town furnishes profitable employ- 
ment for a large rural population. Bi-weekly stages run N. E. up the 
valley of the La Planche to Tidnish (two inns), a village of 300 inhabitants 
on Bale Verte. Tri-weekly stages run N. E. to Shinimicas and the large 
farming district called the Head of Amherst, which has over 2,000 in- 
habitants. 

The present domain of Nova Scotia was ceded to Great Britain by the Treaty of 
Utrecht, in 1713, but its boundaries were not defined, and the French determined to 
limit it on the N. to the Missiguash River. To this end Gov. La Jonqui(§re sent M. 
La Corne, with 600 soldiers, to erect forts on the line of the Missiguash. The war- 
rior-priest, the Abb6 Laloutre (Vicar-General of Acadie), led many Acadians to this 
vicinity, where the flourishing settlement of Beavbassin was founded. At the same 
time La Corne established a chain of military posts from the Bay of Fundy to Bale 
Verte, the chief fort being located on the present site of Fort Cumberland, and bear- 
ing the name of Beausejoiir. The governor of Nova Scotia sent out a British force 
under Major Lawrence, who captured and destroyed Beaubassin, and erected Fort 
Lawrence near its site. The Acadians were industriously laboring in the peaceful 
pursuits of agricvilture about Beausejour; and the King of France had granted 
80.000 livres for the great aboideau across the Aulac River. Tbe British complained, 
however, that the priests were endeavoring to array the Acadians against them, 
and to entice them away from the Nova-Scotian shores. It was resolved that the 
French forces should be driven from their position, and a powerful expedition was 
fitted out at Boston. Three frigates and a number of transports coTiveying tlie New- 
England levies sailed up the Bay of Fundy in May, 1755, and debarked a strong 



FORT CUMBERLAND. Roulc 17. 79 

land force at Fort La\vrence. Meantime 1,200-1,500 Acadians had been gathered 
about Boausojour, by the intiucnce of the Abbt^ Laloutre, and a sharp skirmish waa 
fought ou L'lsle do la Vallierc. On the -ith of June the An.i^io-American forces left 
their camps ou tlie jrlaiis of Fort Lawrence, routed the Acadians at tlie fords of tlio 
.Missi^uasli. and advanced by parallels and siege-lines against the liostile works. 
When the British batteries reached Butte-a-C'h;irIcs the fort was vigorously shelled, 
and with such disastrous effect tliat it capitulated on June IGth, the garrison marcli- 
ing out with arms, bagg-age, and banners. The French troops were paroled and 
sent to Louisbourg, and the Acadians were suffered to remain. Laloutre, escaping 
to Quebec, thei'e received an ecclesiastical censure, and was afterwards remanded to 
Frunce. 

In November, 1776, Col. Eddy led a force of Massachusetts troops, men of Mau- 
gerville, Acadians, and Indians, against Fort Cumberland. He first cut out a store- 
vessel from under the guns of the fort, and captured several detachments of the gar- 
rison i^the Royal Fenclbles). The commandant refused to surrender, and repulsed 
the Americans in a night-attack, by means of a furious cannonade. Eddy then 
blockaded the fort for several days, but was finally driven off by the arrival of a 
man-of-war from Halifiix, bringing a reinforcement of 400 men. The Massachusetts 
camp was broken up l\y a sortie, and all its stores were desti-oyed. The Americans 
fled to the forest, and "fell back on the St. John River. A large proportion of the 
men of Cumberland County went to Maine after this campaign, despairing of the 
success of R<?publicani3m in the Maritime Provinces. Among them were a consid- 
erable number of Acadians. 

The ruins of Fort Cumberland are a few miles N. W. of Amherst, beyond the 
Aulac River, and on a high bluff at the S. end of the Point de Bute range of hills. 
It was kept in repair by the Imperial Government for many years after its capture, 
and still presents an appearance of strength and solidity, though it has been long 
deserted. The remains of the besiegers' parallels are also visible near the works. 
On a bold bluff within canrfon-shot, on the farther bank of the Missiguash River, 
are the scanty remains of the British Fort Lawrence. Numerous relics of the old 
Acadians ma^' still be traced in this vicinity. 5 M. above the fort, on the Baie V^crte 
road, is Bloody Bridge, where a British foraging party under Col. Dixon was sur- 
prised and massacred by the Indians (under French officers). 

The * view from the bastions of Fort Cumberland is famous for its extent and 
beauty. It includes Sackville and its colleges on the N. W. , Amherst and the 
Nova-Scotian shores on the S. E., and the bluff and hamlet of Fort Lawrence. The 
wide and blooming expanse of the Tantramar and Missiguash Marshes is over- 
looked, — the view including over 50,000 acres of rich marine intervale, — and on 
the S. the eye travels for many leagues down the blue sheet of the Bay of Fundy 
(Cumberland Basin). 

The great Tantramar Marsh is S. of Sackville, and is 9 M. long by 4 M. wide, 
being also traversed by the Tantramar and Aulac Rivers. It is composed of fine 
silicious matter deposited as marine alluvium, and is called "red marsh," in dis- 
tinction from the " blue marsh " of the uplands. The low shores around the head 
of the Bay of Fundy for a distance of 20 M. have been reclaimed by the erection of 
dikes, with aboideaux at the mouths of the rivers to exclude the flow of the tides. 
The land thus gained is very rich, and produces fine crops of English hay, averag- 
ing from 1)^ to 2 tons to the acre. The land seems inexhaustible, having been cul- 
tivated now for nearly a century without rotation or fertilization. 

The CJiignecto Peninsula. 

Minuclie is 8 M. S. W. of Amherst, with which it is connected by a ferry across 
the estuaries of the Maccan and Hebert Rivers. It has 600 inhabitants, and is near 
the rich meadows called the Elysian Fields. In the vicinity are profitable quarries 
of grindstones, and there are shad-fisheries to the S. W. 6-8 M. S. are the Joggins 
Mines, pertaining to the General Mining Association of London ; and the Victoria 
Mines, on the river Hebert. Coal has been obtained thence for 25 years. This dis- 
trict is reached by stages from Maccan station. About the year 1730 the coal-mines 
at Chignecto were leased to a Boston company, which was to pay a quit-rent of one 
penny an acre (on 4,000 acres;, and a royalty of 18 pence per chaldron on the coal 
raised. But this enterprise was broken up in 1732, when the warehouses and ma- 
chinery were destroyed by the Indians (probably incited by the French at Louis- 
bourg). 



80 Route 17. COBEQUID MTS. 

The Joggiiis Shore extends to the S.W. along the Chignecto Channel, and is 
remarkable for its geological peculiarities, which have been visited and studied by 
European savans. The local explanation of the name is that the cliffs here ''jog in " 
and out in an unexampled manner. The height of the cliffs is from 130 to 400 ft. ; and 
the width (if the Chignecto Basin is from 5 to 8 M. 35-40 M. from Amherst is Apple 
River., a sequestered hamlet on the estuary of the Apple River, amidst fine marine 
scenery. Apple Head is just W. of this place, and is 413 ft. high, overlooking the 
Chignecto Channel and the New-Brunswick shores. There is a fixed white light on 
its outer point. To the E , Apple River traverses the Caribou Plains, and on its 
upper waters affords the best of trout-fishing, with an abundance of salmon between 
February and July. 15-20 M. S. W. of Apple River, by a road which crosses the 
Cobequid Mts. E. of Cape Chignecto, is Advocate Harbor (see Route 21). 

' ' The road from Amherst to Parrsboro" is tedious and uninteresting. In places 
it is made so straight that j"ou can see several miles of it before you, which produces 
an appearance of interminable length, while the stunted growth of the spruce and 
birch trees bespeaks a cold, thin soil, and invests the scene with a melancholy and 
sterile aspect." (Judge Haleburtox.) This road is 33 M. long, ascending the val- 
ley of the Maccau River, and passing the hamlet of Cannan, near the Cobequid Mts. 

The Halifax train runs S. from Amherst to Maccan (stages to Minudie 
and Joggins), in the great coal-field of Cumberland County. A railway 
runs in 12 M. from Maccan to the Joggins coal-mines. From Athol the 
line passes to Spiing Hill, a coal-mining district, Avhence a railway has 
been constructed to Parrsboro' (see Route 21). 11 M. beyond is the station 
at River Philip (small hotel), a pleasant stream in which good fishing is 
found. The salmon are especially abundant during the springtime. Oxford 
station (two inns) has two small woollen factories, and is 14 M. S. W. of 
Pugwash, on the Northumberland Strait. A railroad runs hence to the 
North Shore. 

The train now passes through extensive forests, in which many sugar- 
maples are seen, and begins the ascent of the Cobequid Mts., with the 
Wallace Valley below on the 1. The Cobequid range runs almost due E. 
and W. from Truro, and is 100 M. long, with an average breadth of 10-12 
M. It consists of a succession of rounded hills, 800-1,000 feet high, cov- 
ered with tall and luxuriant forests of beech and sugar-maple. From 
Thomson, Greenville, and Wentworth stations stages run to Wallace and 
Pugwash (see page 81), also to Tatamagouche. The railway traverses the 
hill-country b)' the Folhj Pass, and has its heaviest grades between Folly 
Lake and Londonderry; where are also 2-3 M. of snow-sheds, to protect 
the deep cuttings from the drifting in of snow from the hills. Fine views 
of the Wallace Valley are afforded from the open levels of the line. From 
Londonderry a railway runs to Acadia Mines, a town of 3,000 inhabitants, 
with 4 churches. Here are the blast-furnaces and rolling-mill of the Can- 
ada Steel Co. The ores are magnetic, specular, and hematite, and occur in 
a wedire-shaped vein 7 M. long and 120 ft. thick. Daily stages run from 
Londonderry to Economy and Five Islands. (See page 105.) 

The train descends from the Pass along the line of the Folly River, which 
it crosses on a bridge 200 feet above the water. Beyond the fanning set- 
tlement of Debert (stages to Economy and Five Islands) the descent is con- 
tinued, and occasional views of the Cob-^quid Bay are given as the train 
passes across Onslow to Truro. The landscape now becomes more pleas- 
ing and thickly settled. 



TRURO. Rn,ttcJ7. 81 

Truro (Parker House; Prince of ]\\iles Hotel ; Victoria) is a wealth_v 
and prosperous town of over 5,000 inhabitants, and occupies a ])leasant 
situation 2 M. from the liead of Cobequid Bay (an arm of ihe Basin of 
Miuas). The level site of the town is nearly surrounded by an amphi- 
theatre of gracefully rounded hills, and on the \V. are the old diked 
meadows of the Acadian era. Truro is the capital of Colchester County 
and the seat of the Provincial Normal School. Fishing and shipbuilding 
are carried on here, and there are large and growing manufactures, in- 
cluding boots and shoes, woollens, and iron-Avares. The neighboring 
county has valuable farming-lands, and contains several iron-mines. 

Truro was settled at an early date by the Acadian French, and after their expul- 
sion from Nova Scotia was occupied by Scotch-Irish from New Hampshire. In 
1761 a large number of disbanded Irish troops settled here, and engaged in the 
peaceful pursuits of agriculture. 

A road runs W. from Truro between the Cobequid Mts. and the Basin of Minas, 
passing Masstown (10 M.) ; Follv Village (U M.), at the mouth of the Folly River; 
Great Village (18 M.), a place of 600 inhabitants ; Highland Village (21 M.) ; Port 
au Pique (23 M.) ; Bass River (27 M.) : Upper Economy (28 M.) ; and Five Islands 
(45 M.). (See Route 22.) The stages run from Debert station. 

Stages run daily to Clifton, Black Rock, and Maitland, on Cobequid Bay, and 
N. E. to Earlton and W. Branch River John. 

Truro is the imiiu of departure for the Pictou Branch of the Intercolonial Rail- 
way (see Route 31). 

The Xorth Shore of Nova Scotia. 

Stages run from various stations to the North Shore, — from Truro to Tatama- 
gouche, etc. ; from Weutworth for Wallace, Pugwash, Tatamagouche, and New 
Annan ; from Greenville to Wallace and Wallace Bridge ; from Thomson to Pug- 
wa.-^h, daily. The new railway from Oxford makes the North-Shore ports more 
accessible than by the old stage-routes. 

In passing from Truro to Tatamagouche the road crosses the Cobequid 
Mts. and descends through a thinly settled region to the N. Tatamagouche 
(two inns) is situated at the head of a large harbor which opens on the 
Northumberland Strait, and has about 1,500 inhabitants. Some ship- 
building is done here, and there are freestone quarries in the vicinity. 
6 M. to the E. is the large village of Brule Harbor, and 6 M. farther E., 
al.<o on the Tatamagouche Bay, and at the mouth of the River John, is 
the shipbuilding settlement of Eiver John, which was founded by Swiss 
Protestants in 1763. It is 20 M. from this point to Pictou, and the inter- 
vening coast is occupied by colonists from the Hebrides. 

Tlie railway runs W. from Tataniagoiiclie to Wallace (two inns), a town 
of 2,600 inhabitants, situated on the deep waters of Wallace Harbor (for- 
merly called Remsheg). Plaster, lime, and freestone are found here in 
large quantities, and the latter is being quarried by several companies. 
The Provincial Building at Halifiix was made of Wallace stone. To the 
N. E , beyond the lighthouse on Mullin Point, is the marine hamlet of Fox 
Harbor, whose original settlers came from the Hebrides. Pugicash (small 
inn) is 10 M. beyond Wallace, and is a flourishing port with about 3,300 
4* F 



82 Route 17. GOLD MINES. 

inhabitants. The harbor, though difficult of access, is deep and well shel- 
tered, and has several ship-3'ards on its shores. The chief exports of Pug- 
wash are deals ^nd lumber, freestone, lime, and plaster. 



The Halifax ti'ain runs S. from Truro to Broohfield, whence hay and 
lumber are exported, and then to StewiacJce, which is 3 M. from the pretty 
farming village of the same name, on the Stewiacke River. The next sta- 
tion is Shubenacadie (International Hotel), a busy little n:ianufacturing 
village on the river of the same name. 

Daily stages descend the valley of the Shubenacadie for 18 M. to the N. to the 
town of Maitland (two inns), at the mouth of the river (see Iloute 22) Stages also 
run S. E. (Tuesday and Thursday) to Gay's River (7 M.), Gay's River Road (14 M ), 
Middle Musquodoboit (21 M ), Upper Musquodoboit (25 M.), Melrose, Guysborough, 
and Port Mulgrave, on the Strait of Canso. Gold was discovered near Gay's River 
in 1862, in the cenglomerate rock of the great ridge called the Boar's Back, which 
extends for 60 M. through the inland towns. It nearly resembles the alluvial de- 
posits found in the placer-diggings of CaUfornia, and the stream-washiugs have 
yielded as high as an ounce per n>an daily. Scientific mining was begun in 18t'3, 
but has given only light returns. Middle Musquodoboit is a farming-town with 
about 1,000 inhabitants, situated on the S. of the Boar"s Back ri ge, 42 M. from 
Halifax. Upper Musquodoboit is about the same size, and beyond that point the 
stages traverse a dreary and thinly settled district for severaLleagues, to Melrose. 

The Halifax train runs S. W. to Elmsdah^ a village near the Shuben- 
acadie River, engaged in making leather and carriages. Enfield is the 
seat of a large pottery. 7 M. N. W. are the Renfrew Gold-Mines, Avhere 
gold-bearing quartz was discovered in 1861. Much money and labor were 
at first wasted by inexperienced miners, but of late years the lodes have 
been worked systematicall}^ and are considered among the most valuable 
in Nova Scotia. The avei'age yield is 16 pennyweights of gold to a ton of 
quartz, and in 1869 these mines yielded 3,097 ounces of the precious metal, 
valued at $61,490. The Oldham Mines are 3J M. S. of Enfield, and ai-e 
in a deep narrow valley, along whose bottom shafts have been sunk to 
reach the auriferous quartz. Between 1861 and 1869, 9,254 ounces of gold 
were sent from the Oldham diggings. In 1883 1,500 tons of quarts Avere 
crushed, yielding over 3,000 ounces of gold- 
Soon after leaving Enfield the train passes along the S. E. shore of Grand 
Lake, which is 8 M. long by 1-2 M. wide. It crosses the outlet stream, 
runs around Long Lake, and intersects the Windsor Branch Railway nt 
Windsor Junction. Station, Rochy Lake, on the lake of the same name, 
where large quantities of ice are cut by the Nova-Scotia Ice Company, for 
exportation to the United States. 3 M. N. E. of this station are the Wavcr- 
ley Gold-Mines, where the gold is found in barrel-quartz, so named because 
it appears in cylindrical masses like barrels laid side by side, or like a 
corduroy-road. At its first discovery all the floating population of Halifax 
flocked out here, but they f!^iled to better their condition, and the total 
yield between 1861 and 1869 was only about 1,600 ounces. Waverley vil- 
lage is picturesquely situated in a narrow valley between two lakes, and 
has about 600 inhabitants. 



ANNAPOLIS ROUTE. Route 18. 83 

After crossing Rocky Lake the train soon reaches the pretty village of 
Bedford {Btdford I/ottl), on the shores of the beautiful Bedford Bdsin, 
and fullows their graceful curves for several miles. On tiie 1. are fine 
views of the hills beyond the blue water. There is a Dominion lish-hatchery 
at Bedford. 

Halifax, see page 93. 

18. St. John to Halifax, by the Annapolis Valley. 

This is tiie pleasantest route, during calm wt athor, betwuen the chief cities of the 
Maritime Proviuces. After a pussjige uf about 4 liours in the steamer, across the Bay 
of Fundy, the pretty scenery of the Annapolis Basin is traversed, and at Annapolis 
the passenger takes the train of the Windsor & Annapolis Railway, which ruus 
through to Halifax. Tlie line traverses a comparatively rich and picturesque coun- 
try, abounding in historic and poetic associations of the deepest interest. 

The distance between St. John and Halifax by this route is 84 M. less than by the 
Intercolonial Railway ; but the time on both routes is about the same, on account 
of the delav in crossing the Bay of Fiindv. The steamer leaves St. John at 7 a. m., 
on Monday, We Inesday, Thiir-day, Friday, and Saturday, connecting with the ex- 
press trains which leave Annapolis at 1.10 p. m. and arrive at Halifax at about 7 
P. M. Express trains leave Tl.ilifax at 8.15 a. m. on Tue.^day, Thursday, Friday, 
and Saturday, con'iecting with the steamer which leaves Annapolis at 1.30 p. m. 
and arrives at St. John at 6 p. m. 

Fares. — 6c. ouu.i to H:i.ifax, Istclass, $4.50; 2d class, -¥350 ; to Digby, $150; 
to AnnapoUs $2. Passengers for Halifax dine on tae steamer and take tea at Kent- 
ville (15 minutes) ; those for St. John lunch at Kentville (10 minutes) an'1 din • 
on the boat. There are two through trains each way daily between Halifax and 
Annapolis. 

distances. — St. John to i)igby, 43 M. ; Annapolis, 61 : Round Hill, 68 ; Bridge- 
town, 75; Paradise, 80; Lawrencetown, 83; Middleton, 89; Wilmot, 92; Kingston, 
96; Morden Road, 101 ; Aylesford, 103 ; Berwick, 108 ; Waterville, 111 ; Cambridge, 
113; Coldbrook, 115; Kentville, 120; Port Williams, 125; Wolfville, 127; Grand 
Pr^.l.SO; Horton Landing, 1.31: Avonport, 1.33; Hantsport, 138; Mount Denson, 
140; Falmouth, 143; Windsor, 145 ; Three-Mile Plains, 148 ; Newport, 151 ; Eliers- 
house, 154 ; Stillwater, 1.57 ; Mount Uniacke, 164 ; Beaver Bank, 174 ; Windsor Junc- 
tion, 177 ; Rocky Lake, 179 ; Bedford, 182; Rockingham, 186; Hilifiix, 190. 

The steamer leaves her wharf at Reed's Point, St. John, and 

soon passes the heights and spires of Carleton on the r. and the lighthouse 
on Partridge Island on the 1., beyond which Mispeck Point is seen. Cape 
Spencer is then opened to the E., on the New Brunswick coa>t, and the 
steamer sweeps out into the open bay. In ordinary summer weather the 
bay is quiet, except for a light tidal swell, and will not affect the traveller. 

Soon after passing Partridge Island, the dark ridge of the North Mt. is 
seen in advance, cleft by the gap called the * Digby Gut, which, in the 
earlier days, was known as St. George's Channel. The course is laid 
straight for this pass, and the steamer runs in by Point Prim, with its fog- 
whistle and fixed light (visible 13 M.), and enters the tide-swept defile, 
with bold and mountainous bluffs rising on either side. The shores on 
the 1. are 610 feet high, and on the r. 400-560 ft., between which the tide 
rushes with a velocity of 5 knots an hour, making broad and powerful 
swirls and eddies over 12 -25 fathoms of water. After running for about 
2 M. through this passage, the steamer enters the Annapolis Basin, and 
runs S. by E. 3 M. to Digby. 



84 Route IS. ANNAPOLIS BASIN. 

"The white houses of Digby, scattered over the downs like a flock of washed 
sheep, had a somewhat chilly aspect, it is true, and made us long for the sun on 
them But as 1 think of it now, I prefer to have the town and the pretty hillsides 
that stand about the basin in the light we saw them ; and especially do 1 like to 
recall the high wooden pier at Digby, deserted by the tide and so blown by the wind 
that the passengers who came out on it, with their tossing drapery, brought to mind 
the windy Dutch harbors that Backhiiysen painted." (vVaRN-R's Baddeck.) 

Dig-by {Daley's Hotel) is a maritime village of about 1,800 inhabitants, 
with 6 churches, 2 weekly papers, and 30 shops, situated on the S. W. 
shore of the Annapolis Basin, and engaged in shipbuilding and the fish- 
eries of haddock, mackerel, and herring. The Digby herring are famous for 
their delicacy, and are known in the Provinces as " Digby chickens." 
Porpoises, also, are caught in the swift currents of the Digby Gut. Quite 
recently Digby has become well known as a summer-resort. The fogs 
which hang like a pall over the Bay of Fundy are not encountered here-, 
and the lovely scenery hereabouts, and boating, bathing, and fishing afford 
sufficient amusement. The comfortable Myrtle House, near the water, 
amid three acres of fruit-orchards, is crowded all summer by Americans 
and Canadians. There is a steamship line from Boston to Digby direct. 
A French fort stood here in the early days ; and in 1783 the township was 
granted to the ex-American Loyalists. A railroad runs to Yarmouth and 
to Annapolis. 

" That portion of Acadia at which the voyagers had now arrived is distinguished 
by the beauty of its scenery. The coast along which they had previously sailed is 
comparatively rugged. But on entering the Basin the scene is changed, many of the 
peculiar elements which lend a charm to the Acadian landscape being found in har- 
monious combination. Towards the east, islands repose on the bosom of the deep, 
their forms being vividly mirrored on its placid surface, and from which canoes may 
be seen darting towards the mainland, with their paddles fitfully flashing in the 
sunlight. Tn the distance are graceful, undulating hills, thickly c]ad, from base to 
summit, with birch, maple, hemlock, and spruce woods, constituting an admirable 
background to the whole scene." (Campbell's History of Nova Scotia.) 

The noble * Annapolis Basin gradually decreases from a width of nearly 
b M. to 1 M., and is hemmed in between the converging ridges of the 
North Mt. and the South 3ft. The former range has a height of 6 - 700 ft., 
and is bold and mountainous in its outlines. The South Mt. is from 300 
to 500 ft. high, and its lines of ascent are more gradual. The North Mt. 
was once insulated, and the tides flowed through the whole valley, until a 
phoQ.l at the confluence of the Blomidon and Digby currents became a bar, 
and this dp tame became dry land and a water-shed. 

Between the head of Argyle Bay and the slopes of the Annapolis Basin 
are the rarely visited and sequestered hill-ranges called the Blue Moun- 
tains. " The Indians are said to have formerly resorted periodically to 
groves among these wilds, which they considered as consecrated places, 
in order to ofter sacrifipes to their gods." 

" We wer^ sailing along the gracefujly jnoulded and tree-covei-ed hills of the An- 
napolis Basin, arid up the mildly picturesque river of that name, and we were about 
to enter what the provincials all enthusiastically call the Garden of Nova Scotia. 
.... It is, — this valley of Annapolis, — in the belief of provincials, the most beau- 
tiful and blooming place in the world, with a soil and climate kind to the husband- 



ANNAPOLIS ROYAL. Route IS. 85 

man, a laud of fair meadows, orchards, and vines It was not until we liad 

travelled over the rest of the country that we saw the appropriateness of the 
designation. The explanation is, that not so much is required of a garden here as 
in some other parts of the world."' 

Sooji after leaving Digbv, Bear Island is seen in-shore on the r., in front 
of the little port o^ Btcir River (inn), which has a foundry, tanneries, and 
saw-mills. Iron and gold are found in the vicinity, and lumber and cord- 
Avood are exported hence to the United States and the West Indies. A ^Q\y 
miles beyond, and also on the S. shore, is the hamlet of Clementsport (two 
inns), where large iron-works were formerly established, in connectioa 
with the ore-beds to the S. Roads lead thence to the S. W. in 10-12 M. 
to the romantic districts of the Blue Mts. and the upper Liverpool Lakes 
(see Route 27), at whose entrance is the rural village of Cltmentsvale. 

8-10 M. beyond Digby the steamer passes Goat Island, of which 
Lescarbot writes, in Les Muses de la Nouvelle France (1609) : 

" Adieu mon doiix plaisir fonteines et ruisseaux, 
Qui les vaux et les nionts arrousez de vos eaux. 
Pourray-je t'oublier, belle ile foretiere 
Riclie honneur de ce lieu et de cette riviere ?" 

In 1707 the British frigate Annibal and two brigautines were sailing up the Basin to 
attack Annapolis, when they met such a sharp volley from the Ile aux Chevres that 
they were forced to retire in confusion. The French name of the island was Angli- 
cized by translation. On the point near this island was the first settlement of the 
French in Nova Scotia. A fort was erected here by the Scottish pioneers, and was 
restored to France by the Treaty of St. Germain, after which it was garrisoned by 
French troops. In 1827 a stone block was found on the point, in.scribed with a 
square and compass and the date " 1606." In May, 1782, there was a naval combat 
off Goat Island, in which an American war-brig of 8 guns was captured by H. M. S. 
Buckram . 

Above the island the Basin is about 1 M. wide, and is bordered by farm- 
streets. To the N. ?]., across a low alluvial point, are seen the spires and 
ramparts of Annapolis Royal, where the steamer soon reaches her wharf, 
after passing under the massive walls of the old fortress. There are sev- 
eral small inns here, the Dominion, Commercial, American, Clifton, Per- 
kins, Hillsdale, and Oakland Farm, etc., and Mrs. Grassie's summer board- 
ina:-house. Their rates are $5-6 a week, and board can be obtained on 
adjacent farms for S3-5 a week. A railway runs from Annapolis to Clem- 
entsport, 8^ M. ; Victoria Bridge, 1-3^; Digby, 20^; and thence to Yar- 
mouth, 87i. Stages run S. E. 78 M. to Liverpool (see Route 27). Steam- 
boats leave Annapolis for Boston, direct, every Tuesday and Friday after- 
noon ; and another steamboat makes daily trip« between Annapolis and 
Diirby, connecting with the Western-Counties Railwa3\ 

Annapolis Royal, the capital of Anna police County, is a maritime and 
agricultural village, situated at the head of the Annapolis Basin, and con- 
tains 1.200 inhabitants. It is frequented by summer visitors on account 
of its pleasant environs and tempered sea-air, and the opportunities for salt- 
water fishing in the Basin, and trouting among the hills to the S. The 
chief object of interest to the passing traveller is the * old fortress which 
fronts the Basin and covers 28 acres vvith its ramparts and outworks. It 
is entered by the way of the fields opposite Perkins's Hotel. The works 
are disarmed, and have remained unoccupied for many years. One of the 



86 Route 18. ANNAPOLIS EOYAL. 

last occupations Avas that of the Rifle Brigade, in 1850; but the post was 
abandoned soon after, on account of the numerous and successful deser- 
tions which thinned the ranks of the garrison. But when Canada passed 
into a state of semi-independence in 1867, this fortress was one of the few 
domains reserved to the British Crown. The inner fort is entered by an 
ancient arclaway which fronts towards the Basin, giving passage to the 
parade-ground, on which are the quaint old English barracks, with steep 
roofs and great chimnej^s. In the S. E. bastion is the magazine, with a 
vaulted roof of masonry, near which are the foundations of the French 
barracks. From the parapet on this side are overlooked the landward out- 
works and the lines of the old Hessian and Waldecker settlements towards 
Clementsport. , On the hillside beyond the marsh is seen an ancient house 
of the era of the French occupation, the only one now standing in the val- 
ley. In the bastion towards the river is a vaulted room, whence a passage 
leads down to the French garrison-wharf; but the arched way has fallen 
in, and the wharf is now but a shapeless pile of stones. The * view from 
this angle of the Avorks is very beautiful, including the villages of Annapo- 
lis Royal and Granville, the sombre heights of the North and South Mts., 
and the Basin for many miles, with Goat Island in the distance. 

The road which leads by the fortress passes the old garrison cemetery, 
St. Luke's Church, the court-house and county academy, and many 
quaint and antiquated mansions. A ferry crosses to Granville, a little 
shipbuilding village, Avith 700 inhabitants. A road leads hence across the 
North Mt. in 4-5 M., to IlUlsburn and Leitchfield. 

" Annapolis Royal is a picturesque little town, almost surrounded by water, at 
the head of the Annapolis Basin On both sides of the Basin rise mountains whose 
background of vegetation lends a peculiar charm to the landscape. Fruit of 
almost every kind common to this continent may be found here in its season. East- 
ward you may proceed by railway to the scene of Longfellow's great poem of ' Evange- 
line ' through a perpetual scene of orchards, dike lands, and villages, skirted on 
both sides by dreamy mountains, till you reach the grand expanse of the Basin of 
Minas, with Blomiiion, the abode of sea-nymphs, holding eternal guard in the 
distance. Annapolis Royal and Granville Ferry offer speciiil sanitary privileges to 
the weary, the invalid, and the pleasure-seeker ; bathing, trouting, hunting, boat- 
ing, picnicking, are all enjoyed in turn From the mountain slopes, whither parties 
go for a day's enjoyment, the prospect is unrivalled, and the air invigorating. The 
thermometer rarely rises above 90 degrees in the day, while the night air is cool 
enough for blankets and light overcoats. A moonlight excursion on the Basin 
is something to remember for a lifetime." 

The Basin of Annapolis was first entered in 1604 by De Monts's fleet, exploring the 
shores of Acadie ; and the beauty of the scene so impressed the Baron de Pou- 
trincourt that he secured a grant here, and named it Port Royal. After the failui-e 
of the colony at St. Croix Island, the people moved to this point, bringing all 
their stores and supplies, and settled on the N. side of the river. In .July, 1606, 
Lescarbot and another company of Frenchnien joined the new settlement, and 
conducted improvements of the land, while Poutrincourt and Champlain explored 
the Massachusetts coast 400 Indians had been gathered by the S!U2;au)oro Member- 
tou in a stockaded village near the fort, and all went on wefl and favorably until De 
Monts's grant was annulled by the King of France, and then the colony was aban- 
doned. 



AXXAPOLIS ROYAL. Jtnutc AS'. 87 

Four years later the brave Baron de Poutrincourt left his estates in Champagne, 
with a liecp cargo of supplies, descended the rivers Aube and Seine, and sailed out 
from Dii'i)pe (Feb. 26, IGlO) On arriving at Port Royal, everything was found as 
when left: and the work of proselyting the Indians wjus at once entered cu. Mem- 
bertou and his tribe were converted, baptized, and feasted, amid salutes from the 
cannon and the chanting of the Te Deuin ; and numerous other forest-clans soon 
followed the same course. 

Poutrincourt was ji Galilean Catholic, and hated the Jesuits, but was forced to 
take out two of them to his new domain. They as.sumed a high authority there, 
but were sternly rebuked by the Baron, who said, " It is my part to rule you on 
earth, ami yours only to guide me to heaven." They threatened to lay Port Royal 
under interdict ; and Poutriucourt's son and succes.^or so greatly resented this that 
they left the colony on a mission ship sent out by the Marchioness de Guercheville, 
and founded St. Sauveur, on the island of Mount Desert. In 1613, after the Vir- 
ginians under Capt. Argall had destroyed St. Sauveur, the vengeful Jesuits piloted 
their fleet to Port Royal, which was completely demolished. Poutrincourt came 
out in lol4 only to find his colony in ruin.«,and the remnantof the people wandering 
in the forest ; and was so disheartened that he returned to France, where he was 
killed, the next year, in the battle of MLTy-sur-Seine. 

It is a memorable fact that these attacks of the Virginians on Mount Desert and 
Port Royal were the very commencement of the wars between Great Britain and 
France in North America, " which scarcely ever entirely' cea^sed until, at the co.-t of 
infinite blood and treasure, France was stripped of all her possessions in America by 
the peace of 1763.*' 

Between 1620 and 1630 an ephemeral Scottish colony was located at Port Royal, 
and was succeeded by the French. In 1628 the place was captured by Sir David 
Kirk, with an English fleet, and was left in ruins. In 1634 it was granted to Claude 
de Razilly, " Seigneur de Raziily, des Eau.\ Mesles et Cuon, en Anjou," who after- 
wards became commandant of Oleron and vice-admiral of France. He was a bold 
naval officer, related to Cardinal Richelieu ; and his brother Isaac commanded at 
I.ahave (see Route 25). His lieutenants were D'Aulnay Churnisa}' and Charles de la 
Tour, and he transferred all his Acadian estates to the former, in 1642, after which 
begin the feudal wars between those two nobles (see page 19). Several fleets sailed 
from Port Royal to attack La Tour, at St. John ; and a Boston fleet, in alliance with 
La Tour, assailed Port Royal. 

In 1654 the town was under the rule of Emmanuel le Borgne, a merchant of La 
Rochelle, who had succeeded to D'Auluay's estates, by the aid of Cesar, Duke of 
Yeudjuie, on account of debts due to him from the Acadian lord. Later in the 
same year the fortress was taken by a fleet sent out by Oliver Cromwell, but the in- 
habitants of the valley were not disturbed. 

By the census of 1071 there were 331 souls at Port Royal, with over 1,000 head of 
live-stock and 364 acres of cultivated land In 1684 the fishing-fleet of the port was 
captured by English " corsairs " ; and in 1686 there were 622 souls in the town. In 
loUO the fort contained 18 cannon and 86 soldiers, and was taken and pillaged by 
Sir William Phipps, who sailed from Boston with 3 war-vessels and 700 men. A 
few mouths later it was plundered by corsairs from the West Indies, and in 1691 
the Chevalier de Villebon took the fort in the name of France. Baron La Hontan 
wrote: " Port Royal, the capital', or the only city of Acadia, is in effect no more 
than a little paltry town that is somewhat enlarged since the war broke out in 1689 
by the accession of the inhabitants that lived near Boston, the metropolitan of New 
England. It subsists upon the traffic of the skins which the savages bring thither 
to truck for European goods." In the summer of 1707 the fortress was attacked by 
2 regiments and a small fleet, from Boston, and siege operations were commenced. 
An attempt at storming the worlis by night was frustrated by M. de Subercase's 
vigilance and the brisk fire of the French artillery, and the besiegers were finally 
.forced to retire with severe loss. A few weeks later a second expedition from Massa- 
chusetts attacked the works, but after a siege of 15 days their camps were stormed 
by the Baron de St. Castin and the Chevalier de la Boularderie, and the feebly led 
Americans were driven on board their ships. Subercase then enlarged the fortress, 
made arrangements to run off slaves from Boston, and planned to capture Rhode 
Island, "which is inhabited by rich Quakers, and is the resort of rascals and even 
pirates." 

In the autumn of 1710 the frigates Dragon, Chester, Falmouth, Leostaffe, Fevers- 
ham, Star, and Province, with 20 transports, left Boston and sailed to Port Royal. 



88 Route 18. THE ANNAPOLIS VALLEY. 

There were 2 regiments from Massachusetts, 2 from the rest of New England, and 1 
of Royal Marines. After the erection of mortar-batteries, several days were spent 
in bombarding the fort from the fleet and the siege-lines, but the fire from the ram- 
parts was kept up steadily until the garrison were on the verge of starvation ; Suber- 
case then surrendered his forces (2-58 men), who were shipped off to France, and 
Gen. Nicholson changed the name of Port Royal to Annapolis Royal, in honor of 
Queen Anne, then sovereign of Great Britain. 

In 1711, 80 New-Englanders from the garrison were cut to pieces at Bloody Brook, 
12 M. up the I'iver, and the fortress was then invested by the Acadians and Miemacs. 
For nearly 40 years afterwards Annapolis was almost ahvays in a state of siege, being 
menaced from time to time by the disaffected Acadians and their savage allies. In 
1744 the non-combatants were sent to Boston for safetj', and ia July of that year the 
fort was beleaguered by a force of fiinatic Catholics under the Abb6 Laloutre. Five 
companies of Massachusetts troops soon joined the garrison, and the besiegers were 
reinforced by French regulars from Louisbourg. The siege was continued for nearly 
three months, but Gov. Mascarene showed a bold front, and provisions and men 
came in from Boston. The town was destroyed by the artillery of the fort and by 
incendiary sorties, since it served to shelter the hostile riflemen. Soon after Duvivier 
and Laloutre had retired, two French frigates entered the Basin and captured some 
ships of Massachusetts, but left four days before Tyng's Boston squadron arrived. 
A year later, De Ramezay menaced the fort with 700 men, but was easily beaten off 
by the garrison, aided by the frigates Chester, 50, and Shirley, 20, which were lying 
in the Basin. After the deportation of the Acadians, Annapolis remained in peace 
until 1781, when two American war- vessels ascended the Basin by night, surprised 
and captured the fortress and spiked its guns, and plundered every house in the 
town, after locking the citizens up in the old block-house. 

The Annapolis Valley. 

This pretty district has suffered, like the St. John River, from the absurdly ex- 
travagant descriptions of its local admirers, and its depreciation by Mr. Warner (see 
page 84) expresses the natural reaction v.hich must be felt by travellers (unless they 
are from Newfoundland or Labrador) after cou.paring the actual valley with these 
high-flown panegyrics. A recent Provincial writer says : •' The route of the Wind- 
sor & Annapolis Railway lies throvigh a magnificent farming-country whose beauty 
is so great that we exhaust the tnghsh language of its adjectives, and are compelled 
to revert to the quaint old French v/hich was spoken by the early settlers of this 
Garden of Canada, in our efforts to describe it." In point of fact the Annapolis 
region is far inferior either in beauty or fertility to the valleys of the Nashua, the 
Schuylkill, the Shenandoah, and scores of other familiar streams which have been 
described without efFut^ion and without impressing the service of alien languages. 
The Editor walked through a considerable portion of this valley, in the process of a 
closer analysis of its features, and found a tranquil and commonplace farming- 
district, devoid of salient points of interest, and occupied by an insufiicient popula- 
tion, among whose hamlets he found unvarying and honest hospitality and kind- 
ness. It is a peaceful rural land, hemmed in between high and monotonous ridges, 
blooming during its brief summer, and will afford a series of pretty views and pleas- 
ing suggestions to the traveller whose expectations have not been raised beyond 
bounds by the exaggerated praises of well-meaning, but injudicious authors. 

It is claimed that the apples of the Annapolis Valley are the best in America, and 
500,000 barrels are exported yearly, — many of which are sold in the cities of Great 
Britain. The chief productions of the district are hay, cheese, and live-stock, a large 
proportion of which is exported. 



The Halifax train runs out from Annapolis over the lowlands, and takes 
a course to the N. E., near the old highway. Bridgetown ( 6^m?jc/ Central) 
is the first important station, and is 14 M. from Annapolis, at the head 
of navigation on the river. It has about 1,500 inliabitants, 4 churches, 
and a weekly newspaper, and is situated in a di^trict of apple-orchards 
and rich pastures. Some manufacturing is done on the water-power of 



WILMOT SPRINGS. Route IS. 89 

the Aiinapulis River and its brauches; and the surrounding cuuntry is 
■well populated, and is reputed to be one of the healthiest districts in Nova 
Scotia. To the S. is Bloody Brook, where a detachment of New-England 
troops was massacred by the French and Indians ; and roads lead up over 
the South Mt. into the interior, dotted with small hamlets, inhabited by 
the descendants of old soldiers. Many large lakes and streams tilled with 
trout, and good huntiug-grounils are in this region. 

FaracUse (small inn) is a pleasantly situated village of about 400 inhab- 
itants, with several saw aud grist mills and tanneries. The principal 
exports are lumber and cheese, though there are also large deposits of mer- 
chantable granite in the vicinity. A road crosses the North Mt. to Port 
Williams, 7 M. distant, a tishing-village of about 300 inhabitants, situated 
on the Bay of Fuudy. The coast is illuminated here, at night, by two 
white lights. Farther down the shore is the hamlet of St. Croix Cove. 

Lawrtncetown is a prosperous village of about 600 inhabitants, whence 
much lumber is exported. In 1754, 20,000 acres in this vicinity were 
granted to 20 gentlemen, who named their new domain in honor of Gov. 
Lawrence. 8 M. distant, on the summit of the North Mt., is the hamlet 
of Havdock, beyond which is the farming settlement of Mt. Hartley, near 
the Bay of Fuudy. New Albany (small inn) is a forest-village 8-10 M. 
S. E. of Lawrencetown ; and about 10 M. farther into the great central 
wilderness is the liarming district of Springfeld, beyond the South Mt. 

Middleton {American House) is a small village near the Smith Mt. The 
Nova tScotia Central Railway runs from Middleton to Nictaux Falls, 4 M. ; 
Cleveland, a locality rich in immense beds of iron ore ; American Mills, a 
lumber-district; New Albany; Dalhousie; Spriiigtield ; New Germany; 
Riverside; Bridgewater ; Mahone Bay; and Lunenburg (see page 118). 

Wilniot Spa Springs, 2 M. from Middleton station (conveyances from all 
trains), is a favorite provincial summer resort, with Nortli Mt. on one side, and the 
blue ridge of Soutu Mt. on the other. The Springs rise in an extensive grove of tall 
pines, aud are nelpful in cases of cancer, d}s^epsia, kidney disease, spinal com- 
plaint, and general debility. Hall's Hotel was built in 1888, and accommodates 200 
guests, at irb-12 a week (reductions for long sojourns), with hot and cold and shower 
baths of the saline waters. Liiy Lake, not far away, aifords good ti-hing and boat- 
ing, and is surrounded by deep woois. There are pleasant drives to North Mt., with 
its marine views ; and to the quaint little sea-ports on the Bay of Fundy. 

Wilmot station is | M. from Farmington (two inns), a Presbyterian vil- 
lage. Maryaretsvillt (Harris's Hotel; is 7 M. distant, across the North Mt., 
on the Bay of Fundy. Fruit and lumber are exported hence to the United 
States. 

Kingston station is 1| ^l. from Kinf/ston, 2 M. from Melvern Square, 
24 M. from Tremonf, and 4 M. from Prince William Street, rural hamlets 
in the valley. From Morden Road station a highway runs N. W. 7 M. 
across the North Mt. to the little port of Morden, or French Cross (Bal- 
comb's Hotel), on the Bay of Fundy. Station, Aylesford {Aylesford 
house), a small huuilet from which a stage runs to Bridgewater every 



90 Route 18. KENTVILLE. 

Thursday. The farming towns of Jacksonville and Morristown are 5-7 M. 
away, on the top of the South Mt. 

L<ake George (HalPs inn) is 12 M. distant, whence the great forest-bound chain 
of the Aylesford Lakes may be visited. The chief of tliese is Kempt Lake, 
■which is about 7 M. long. A road runs S. from tbe Lake George settlement by Lake 
Paul and Owl Lake to Falkland (32 M. from Aylesford), which is on the great Lake 
Sherbrooke, in Lunenburg County, near the head-waters of the Gold River. 

" The great Ajlesford sand-plain folks call it, in a ginral way, the Devirs Goose 
Pasture. It is IS M. long and 7 M. wide ; it ain't just drifting sands, but it \s all 
but that, it 's so barren. It 's uneven, or wavy, like the swell of the sea in a calm, 
and is covered with short, thin, dry, coarse grass, and dotted here and there with a 
half-starved birch and a stunted misshapen spruce. It is jest about as silent and 

lonesome and desolatfe a place as you would wish to see All that country 

thereabouts, as I have heard tell when I was a boy, was once owned by the Lord, 
the king, and the devil. The glebe-lands belonged to the first, the ungranted wil- 
derness-lands to the second, and the sand-plain fell to the share of the last (and 
people do say the old gentleman was rather done in the division, but that is neither 
here nor there), and so it is called to this day the DevWs Goose Pastwe.'''' 

Station, Beridch (two inns), a prosperous village of 400 inhab'tants, 
where the manufactm-e of shoes is carried on. A road leads to the N. W. 
7 M. across Pleasant Valley and the Black Rock Mt. to Harborville. a ship- 
building village on the Bay of Fundy, whence large quantities of cordwood 
and potatoes are shipped to the United States. Several miles farther up 
the bay-shore is the village of Canada Creek, near which is a lighthouse. 

At Berwick the line enters the * Cornwallis Valley, which is shorter 
but much more picturesque than that of Annapolis. Following the course 
of the Cornwallis River, the line approaches the base of the South Mt., 
while the North Mt. trends away to the N. E. at an ever-increasing angle. 
Beyond the rural stations of Waterville, Cambridge, and Coldbrook, the 
train reaches Kentville (Lyons Hotel; restaurant in the station), the 
headquarters of the railway and the capital of Kings County. This town 
has 1,686 inhabitants, 5 churches, and 2 weekly newspapers; and there are 
several mills and quarries in the vicinity. Raw umber and manganese 
have been found here. The Cornwallis- Valley Railroad runs from Kent- 
ville to Canning and Kingsport, whence apples are shipped. The high- 
way leads to Cape Blomidon, ascending North Mountain, with noble and 
fjir-extending views. 

Kentville to Chester. 

The Royal mail-stages leave Kentville at 6 A. M. on Monday and Thursday, i-each- 
ing Chester in the afternoon. The return trip is made on Tuesday a,nd Friday. The 
distance between Kentville and Chester is 46 M., and the intervening country is 
wild and picturesque. After passing the South Mt by the Miil-Brook Valley, at 
8-10 M. from Kentville, the I'oad runs near the Gaspereaux Lake, a beautiful 
forest-loch about 5 M. long, with many islands and highly diversified shores. This 
water is connected by short straits with the island-studded Two-Mile Lake and the 
Four-Mile Lake, near which are the romantic Aylesford Lakes. E. and S. E. of 
the Gaspereaux Lake are the trackless solitudes of the far-spreading Blue Mts., 
amid whose recesses are the lakelets wliere the Gold River takes its rise. At 20 M. 
from Kentville the stage enters the Episcopal village of iVi??^' Ross (Turner's Hotel), 
at the crossing of the Dalhousie Road from Halifax to Annapolis. From this point 
the stage descends the valley of the Gold River to Chester (see page 127). 



WINDSOR. Route IS. 91 

The Halifax train runs E. from Kentville down the Coniwallis Valley to 
Port WilUams,\\\\\Q\\ is \h M. from the A-illage of that name, whence daily- 
stages run to Canning. The next station is Wolfville, from which the Land 
of Evangeline may most easily be visited (see Route 22). The buildings 
of Acadia College are seen on the hill to the r. of the track. 

The Halifax train runs out from Wolfville with the wide expanse of the 
reclaimed meadows on the 1., beyond which is Ccqje Blomidon, looming 
leagues away. In a few minutes the train reaches Grand Pre, and as it 
slows up before stopping, the tree is seen (on the 1. about 300 ft. from the 
track) which marks the site of the ancient Acad'an chapel. Bej'ond Hor- 
tun Landing (see page 111) the Gaspereaux is crossed, and the line swings 
around toward the S. E. At Avonport tlie Inie reaches the broad Avon 
River, and runs along its 1. bank to Hanisport (tw^o inns). This is a 
large manuftictunng and shlpbuild'ng village, whei'e numerous vessels 
are owned. In the vicinity are quarries of freestone. Steamboats ply be- 
tween Hantsport, Kingsport, and Parrsboro'. Mount Benson station is 
near the hill whose off-look Judge Haliburton so highly extols : -^ 

" I have seen at dififerent periods of my life a good deal of Europe and much of 
America ; but I have seldom seen anything to be compared with the view of the 
Ba.«iu of Minas and its adjacent landscape, as it presents itself to you on your ascent 

of Mount Denson He who travels on this continent, and does not spend a few 

days on the shores of this beautiful and extraordinary basin, may be said to have 
missed one of the greatest attractions on this side of the water." 

The next station is Falmouth, in a reg'on which abounds in gypsum. 
Buck toward Central Falmouth there are prolific orchards of apples. The 
line now crosses the Avon River on the most costly bridge in the Mari- 
time Provinces, over the singular tides of this system of waters. 

The traveller who passes from Annapolis to Windsor at the hours of low-tide will 
sympathize with the author of " Baddeck," wJio says that the Avon '' would have 
been a charming river if there had been a drop of water in it. I never knew before 
how much water adds to a river. Its slimy bottom was quite a ghastly spectacle, 
an ugly rent in the land that nothing could heal but the friendly returning tide. 
I should think it would be confusing to dwell by a river that runs first one way and 
then the other and then vanishes altogether." 

The remarkable tides of this river are also described by Mr. Noble, as follows : 
The tide was out, " leaving miles of black " (red) "river-bottom entirely bare, with 
only a small stream coursing through iu a serpentine manner. A line of blue water 
was visible on the northern hoi-izon. After an absence of an hour or so, I loitered 
back, when, to my surpri.«e, there was a river like the Hudson at Catskill, running 
up with a powerful current. The high wharf, upon which but a short time before 
I had stood and surveyed the black, unsightly fields of mud, was now up to its mid- 
dle in the turbid and whirling stream." 

Windsor (Dufferin Hotel; Victoria) is a wealthy and cultured town of 
3,000 inhabitants, on the prouiuutory between the Avon and St. Croix 
Rivers. It owns a great amount of shipping, and has iron, cotton, and 
leather works and shipyards, and gold mines near by. The business streets 
are dingy and dusty, but the hills command interesting and extensive 
views. Vast quantities of white and blue plaster are shipped to the United 



92 Route 18. WINDSOR. 

States for fertilizing the soil and calcining purposes. Near the end of the 
railway bridge, on a projecting hill, is the Clifton mansion, formerly the 
home of the genial and witty Thomas C. Haliburton (born at Windsor in 
1797, 13 years a Judge m Nova Scotia, 6 years an M. P. at London, and 
died in 1865), the -author of "Sam Slick, The Clockmaker," etc. 

On the knoll over the village are the crumbling block-houses and earth- 
works of Fort Edward, whence is obtamed a pretty view down the widen- 
ing Avon and out over the distant Basin of Minas. About 1 M. from 
the station, on a hill which overlooks the fine valley of (he Avon and its 
uncleared mountain-rim, are the plain buildings of King's College,' the 
oldest college now existing in Canada. 

It was founded in 1788, and chartered by King George TIT. in 1802. It is under 
the patronage of the Archbishop of Canterbury, and is well endowed with scholar- 
ships, honors, etc. Its officers must belons: to the Church of England, though 
there are no tests for admis.sion of students. Manv of the most influential and 
disfinguished British-Americans have been educated here, and " Kingsmen " are 
found in all parts of Canada. The college has 6 professors and about 40 students. 
There is also a divinity school in connection with the college. 

The Province of Nova Scotia is occupied by 3G Christian sects. Of its inhabitants. 
55,124 belong to the Anglican Church, and are ministered to by a lord bishop, 4 
canons, 8 rural deans, and 68 clergymen. There are 102,001 Catholics, 103,559 Pres- 
byterians, 73,430 Baptists, 41 J51 Methodists, and 4,958 Lutherans (census of 1871). 

The site of Windsor was called by the Indians Pisiquid, " the Junction of the 
Waters," and the adjacent lowlands were settled at an early day by the French, who 
raised large quantities of wheat and exported it to Boston. The French settled in 
this vicinity about the middle of the 17th century, but retired far into the interior 
at the time of the British conquest. Gov. Lawrence issued a proclamation inviting 
settlers to come in from New England, stating that " 100,000 acres of land had been 
cultivated and had borne wheat, rye, barley, oats, hemp, flax, etc., for the last cen- 
tury without failure." The deserted French hamlets were occupied in 1759-60 by 
families from Massachusetts and Rhode Island, and their descendants still possess 
the land. The Rhode-Islanders erected the township of Newport, Massachusetts 
formed Falmouth, and Windsor was granted to British officers and waf- fortified in 
1759. The broad rich marshes near Windsor bad attracted a large Acadian popula- 
tion, and here was their principal church, whose site is still venerated by the Mic- 
mac Indians. 

" I cannot recall a prettier village than this. If you doubt my word, come and 
see it. Yonder we discern a portion of the Basin of Minas ; around us are the rich 
meadows of Nova Scotia. Intellect has here placed a crowning college upon a hill; 
opulence has surrounded it with picturesque villas." (Cozzfks.) Another writer 
has spoken with enthusiasm of Windsor's " wide and beautiful environing mead- 
ows and the hanging-gardens of mountain-forests on the S and W." 

The Halifax train sweeps along the St. Croix River around Windsor, 
passing (on the r.) the dark buildings of King's College, on a hilltop, with 
the new chapel in front of their line. The character of the landscape be- 
gins to change, and to present a striking contrast with the agricultural 
regions just traversed. 

" Indeed, if a man can live on rocks, like a goat, he may settle anywhere between 
Windsor and Halifax. With the exception of a wild pond or two, we saw nothing 
but rocks and stunted firs for forty -five miles, a monotony unrelieved by one pic- 
turesque feature. Then we longed for the ' Garden of Nova Scotia,' and understood 
what is meant by the name." ( SVaeneb's Baddeck.) 

Beyond Three-Mile Plains the train reaches Newport, near which large 




6 



1. 7\m-//« 23. Officers' Quarters, 

t. Post t 24. Military Hospital, 

8. Qovern 25. Queen's Dock Yard, 

4. Court 26. Admiralty House, 

5. Z)a.'-4<r 27. K jt/; C. /^.. 

6. aij /. 28. i^a/iTax Club, 

7. .ff/»W 29. //aA/<7;r Hotel, 

8. ./Wr i 30. International Hotel, 

9. A/Ww- 31. Carlton Hotel, 

10. yVtftoi 32. IVavcrley Hotel, 

11. »'<!^/ii 33. RaUway Station, 



C. 3. 
C. 2. 
E. 3. 
^. 1. 
C. 3. 
.fi.C. 3. 
^. 3. 
JB. 3. 
C 3. 



e 




I. Parliament Buiiftm^t 
«. fist Office, 



4. Ccurt Souse, 

5. Dal/icusie Ccllegt, 
0. Cty Hospital, 

7. Blind Asylum, 

8. Poor Asylum, 

9. /"«»/«■ Gardens, 

10. Protestant Cautery^ 

11. WeUford Monummt, 



12. talhidral, . 

13. .Jr. ZkVi, . 

14. 5/. Atf^j, 

15. a C«/y^j, 

16. i/. Mallhiw's, 

17. COTfm/ 0/ 5a«iir Heart, 

18. Ci/aA/, 

19. /i>r/ Oiarloll!, 

20. Ordnance Grounds, 

21. AniUery Barracks, 

22. Wellingten Barratki, 



23. Officers" Quarters, 

24. Military Hospital, 

25. ^u^m'j Z)«-S Kffrrf, 

26. Admiralty House, 

27. K jV; _C. ^., 

28. .«7/!/a» C/b*, 

29. /&/(/« /To/rf, 

30. International Hotel, 

31. Cbr//«I /ToW, 

32. Waverley Hotel, 

33. Railway Station, 



C. 3. 

AC. 8. 

B. 3. 

y?. 3. 
c. 3. 
^. 3. 



HALIFAX. Route 19. 93 

quantities of gypsum are quarried from the veins in the soft marly sand- 
stone. Nearly 3,000 tons of th's fine fibrous mineral are shipped j^early 
from Newport to the United States. To the N. are the villages of 
Brooklyn (5 M.), devoted to manufacturing; Scotch Village (9 M.), a 
farming settlement; and Burlington, on the Kennetcook River (10 IM.). 
Chivirie and Walton, 20-22 M. N., on the Basin of Minas, are accessible 
from Newport by a tri-weekly conveyance. The train passes on to Ellers- 
house (small inn), a hamlet clustered around a furniture-factory and 
lumber-mills. 2i M. distant is the settlement at the foot of the Ardoise 
3It., which is the highest point of land in the Province, and overlooks 
Falmouth, Windsor, and the Basin of Minas. The train now crosses the 
Five-Island Lake, skirts Uniacke Lake, with Mt. Uniacke on the N., and 
stops at the Mt. Uniacke station (small inn). The Mt. Uniacke estate and 
mansion were founded more than 50 years ago by Richard John Uniacke, 
then Attorney-General of Nova Scotia. The house occupies a picturesque 
position between two rock-bound lakes, and the domain has a hard- 
working tenantiy. The 3ft. Uniacke Gold-Mines are 3 M. from the sta- 
tion, and were opened in 1S65. In 1869 the mines yielded ^37,340, or 
S345 to each workman, being 6 ounces and 4 pennyweights from each 
ton of ore. For the next 10 ]\I. the line traverses an irredeemable wil- 
derness, and then reaches Beaver Bank., whence lumber and slate are 
exported. At Windsor Junction the train runs on to the rails of the 
Intercolonial Railway ^see page 82), wh ch it follows to Halifax. 

19. Halifax. 

Arrival from the Sea. — Cape Sanibro is usually seen first by the passenger 
on the transatliiutic steamers, and Halifax Harbor is soon entered between the light- 
houses on Chebucto Head and Devil Island. These lights are 1% M. apart, Chebucto 
(on tlie 1.) having a revolving light vi ible for 18 M., and Devil Island a fixed red 
light on a brown tower. On the W. shore the fishing-hamlets of Portuguese Cove, 
Bear Cove, and HeiTiug Cove are pasred in succession. 4 M. S. E. of Herring Cove 
is the dangerous Thruincap Shoal, where H B. M frigate La Tribime, 44, wa.s 
-wrecked in 1797, and nearly all her people were lost, partly by reason of an absurd 
stretch of naval punctiho. Between this shoal and McNab's Island on one side, and 
the mainland on the other, is the long and narrow strait called the Eastern Passage. 
In 1862 the Confederate cruiser Tallahassee was blockaded in Halifax Harbor by a 
squadron of United-S-ates frigates. The shallow and tortuous Eastern Passage was 
not watched, .«ince nothing but small fishing-craft had ever traversed it, and it was 
considered impassable for a steamer I'ke tlie Ta'lakassi-e. But Capt. Wood took ad- 
vantage of the high tide, on a dark night, and crept cautiously out behind McNab's 
Island. By daylight he was far out of sight of the outwitted blockading fleet. 

2 M. from Herring Cove the steamer passes Salisbury Head, and runs between the 
Martello Tower and lighthouse on Maugher Beach (r. side) and the York Redoubt 
(1,J^ M. apart) Near the Redoubt is a Catholic church, and a little above i.s the 
hamlet of Falkland, with its Episcopal church, beyond which the N W. Arm opens 
on the 1. Passing between the batteries on McNab's Island and Fort Ogilvie, on 
Point Pleasant, the steamship soon runs by Fort Clarence and the fortress on George 
Island, and reaches her wharf at Halifax, with the town of Dartmouth and the great 
Insane Asylum on the opposite shore. 

Arrival by Railway. — The riilwny has been prolonged, bv a system of 
costly works, to a terminus within the city, -where a large and handsome ter- 
minal station has been erected, with all modem conveniences. It is not far froDJ 
the Queen's Dock Yard. 



94 Houte 19. HALIFAX. 

Hotels. — Halifax Hotel (Hesslein's), 107 HoUis St , $2A a day ; Queen Hotel 
(A. B. Sheraton) ; Lome House, 83, 85, and 87 Morris St., a capital family hotel ; 
Wavei'ly House (the Misses Romans), Pleasant St., "^2X0 a day ; Carlton House, 51 
Argyle St. ; Royal, 121 Argyle St. ; Albion, Sackville St. ; St. Julian (European 
plan), Hollis St. 

Kestaurants. — Ices, pastry, and confectionery may be obtained at Mitchell's, 
25 George J^t. American beverages are compounded at the Halifax-House bar. 

lieadinjj-KooMis. — The Young Men's Christian Association, corner of Gran- 
Tille and Prince Sts. ; the Provincial Library, in the Province (or Parliament) Build- 
ing (open 1(J to 4); and in the chief hotels. The Halifax Library is at 197 Hollis 
M. : and the Citizens' Free Library (founded by Chief Justice Sir William Young) 
is at Argyle Hall. Arsivle St , and is open from 3 to 6 P M. The Merchants' Ex- 
chang-e and Reading-Room is on Bedford Row. The Church-of-England Institute 
(Library and Gymnasium) is at 5U Barrington St. 

Clubs. — The Ha.ilax uiub has an eiegaut house at 155 Hollis St. ; the City 
Club, Barrington St. ; tne Catholic Young Men's Club, Starr St. (open from 2 to 10 
P.M.); the Highland, North British, St. George's, Charitable Iri^h, and Gerniania 
Societies. The Royiil Nova-Scotia Yacht Club has a station at the foot of Hollis St. 

Amuseiiieiils. — There is a neat, comfortable, and fairly appointed theatre, 
called the Academy of Music ; and Orpheus Hall. In winter, tobogganing on Cita- 
del Hill and Collins' Field, b.\ the Red-Cap and Royal-Blue Clubs, etc. ; skating at 
the Rink, on Tower St.. and on the N W. Arm and the ponds; curling, by the 
Curling Club, at their Rink ; and sleigh-riding at Point Pleasant, etc. In summer, 
good games of cricket and indifferent base-ball playing may be seen on the Garrison 
Cricket-Ground. But Halifax is chiefly famous for the interest it takes in trials of 
skill between yachtsmen and oarsmen, and exciting aquatic contests occur fre- 
quently during the summer. Boats for hire at North Slip and Ferry Slip, and 
Luke's, Freshwater. The Wanderers' Boat-Club have their boathouse and pier at 
the foot of Morris St. The station of the Boyal Nova-Scotia Yacht Squadron is at the 
Royal Engineer Yard, foot of Hollis St. There is capital fishing in the N, W. Arm. 

Horse-Cars run every 7^ minutes from Richmond, by Campbell Road, Lock- 
man, Barrington, Pleasant, and Inglis Sts., at the entrance to Point-Pleasant Park, 
Tower Road, Victoria Road, S. Park St., and Spring-Garden Road to Barrington 
St., opposite the Academy of Music. Also fiom Bell's Lane on Barrington St. and 
Spring-Garden Road to South-Park and Inglis Sts. Fare, 5 c. 

Carriages. — For each person, for ^ M., 15 c ; 1 M., 25 c. ; 2 M., 40 c. ; 3 M., 
50 c. If returning in same carriage, half the above rates. For 1-horse carriage, 
per hour, 75c. ; 2-horse carriage, per hour, ^1 

Distances by sea. — Halifax to Portland. 340 M. (26 hrs.) ; Boston, 378 M. (35 
hrs.); New York, 542 M (50 hrs.) ; Baltimore. 860 M. (76 hrs.) ; St. John's, N. F., 
500 M. (48 hrs.). By rail to St. John, 277 M. ; to Quebec, 678; Montreal, 850; 
Charlottetown, 97 : Portland. 618; Boston, 726; New York, 939. Distances from 
the Post-Office to Dockyard, 1 M. ; Wellington Barracks, li ; Richmond, 2; Poors' 
Asylum, 1 ; Fort Ogilvie, U ; Point Pleasant, 2 ; N. W. Arm Bridge, 2^. 

KailAvays. — Intercolonial (Routes 16 and 17); Windsor & Annapolis. 

Steamships. — The Allan Line, fortnightly f r St. John's, N; F., Quecnstown 
and Liverpool, Norfolk and Baltimore. F'ares : Halifax to ]>iverpoo], S76 and ;? 25 : 
to Norfolk or Baltimore, $20 and $12. The Furness-Line steamships run between 
Halifax and 1-ondon, Eng. ; the Ilansa Line, to Hamburg and Antwerp ; the Allan 
Line, to Glasgow (also); the Red-Cross Line, for New York ($16 or $9), or St. 
John's, N. F. (#18 or $9). 

A steamer runs from Halifax every Tuesday to Sheet Harbor, Canso, Arichat, 
Port Mulgrave, Port Hawkesbury, Georgetown, and Souris. Steamboats leave for 
Lunenburg, Mondays and Thursdays; for Prospect, Chester, and Mahone Bay, 
Wednesdays and Fridays: for Bridgewater. every Mondav and Thursday; for St. 
Peters (Cape Breton), West Bay, Baddeck, Sydney, and for Channel, Codroy, and 
Bonne Bay (Newfoundland), fortnightly. The Halifax leaves for Boston every 
Wednesday at 10 .\. m. The Boston, Halifax, and Prince Edward Island steamships 
leave every week for Boston. 

Stages leave Ilalitax daily for Chester, Lunenburg. Liverpool, Shelburne. and 
Yarmouth (see Ronf(» '24 ), licp rting at 6 \. m. Stages leave at 6 a. m., on I\!ond:iy, 
Wednesday, and Fridav, lor iMus(iiioiloboif Harbor, .leddore. Ship Harbor, Tangier, 
§heet Harbor, Beaver Harbor, ami Salmon River (see Route 29). 



HALIFAX. "' Route 19. 95 

Halifax, the capital of Nova Scotia, and the chief naval station of 
the British Empire in the \\'es[ern Heinij^phere, has 38/00 iniiubilants, 
\\h\i~ banks, 5 daily papers and 4 weeklies, and 38 churches. It occupies a 
picturesque position on the E. slope of the peninsula (of 3,000 acres), be- 
tween the bay, the N. W. Arm, and the Bedford Basin ; and looks out 
upon a noble harbor, deep, completely sheltered, easily accessible, and 
large enough " to contain all the navies of Europe." In 1869 the imports 
amounted to $5 7,202,504, and the exports to $3,169,548; and in 1870 the 
assessed valuation of the city was $16,753,812. The city has a copious 
supply of water, which is drawn from the Chain Lakes, about 12 M. dis- 
tant, and so high above Halifax that it can force jets over the highest 
houses by its own pressure. There is a fire-alarm telegraph, and an effi- 
cient fire department, with several steam-engines. 

The city lies along the shore of the harbor for 2.^ M., and is about | M. 
Avide. Its plan is regular, and some of the bus'ness streets are well built; 
but the general character of the houses is that of poor construction and 
dingy coloi's. It has, however, been much bettered of late years, owing to 
the improvements after two great fires, and to the wealth which flowed iu 
during the American civil war, and hardly deserves the severe criticism 
of a recent traveller: " Probably there is not anywhere a more rusty, for- 
lorn town, and this in spite of its magnificent situation." 

Hollis and Granville Streets, in the vicinity of the Parliament Buildings, 
contain the most attractive shops and the headquarters of the great import- 
ing houses. Many of the buildings in this section are of solid and elegant 
construction, though the prevalence of dark colors gives a sombre hue to 
the street lines. 

The Parliament Building occupies the square between tlollis, George, 
Granville, and Prince Streets, and is surrounded with trees. In 1830 this 
plain structure of gray stone was called the finest building in North 
America, but American architecture has advanced very far since thai- 
time. Opposite the Granville-St. entrance is the Library, occupying a 
veiy cosey little hall, and supplied with British and Canadian works on 
law, history, and science. In the X. part of the building is the plain and 
commodious hall of the House of Assembly; and on the S. is the chamber 
of the Legislative Council, in which are some fine portraits. On the r. and 
1. of the vice-regal throne are full-length * portraits of King George III. 
and Queen Charlotte; on the N. wall are Chief Justice Blowers, King 
William IV., Judge Haliburton (see page 92), * Sir Thomas Strange (by 
Benjamin West), and Sir Brenton Haliburton. Opposite the throne are 
Nova Scotia's military hei-oes, Sir John Inglis (the defender of Lucknow) 
and Sir W. Fenwick AVilliams of Kars. On the S. Avail are full-length por- 
traits of King George II. and Queen CaroPne. 

The Dominion Building, nearly opposite tiie Province (or Pai-liament) 
Buildmg, on Hollis St., covers an area of 140 by 70 ft. It is of fi-eestone, iu 



96 Route 19, HALIFAX. 

an ornate style of architecture, and cost $120,000. The lower story is 
occupied by the Post-Ofifice; and the third floor contains the * Provincial 
Museum, which exhibits preserved birds, animals, reptdes, fossils, min- 
erals, shells, coins, and specimens of the stones, minerals, coals, and gold 
ores of Nova Scotia. There are also numerous Indian relics, curiosities 
from Japan and China, naval models, and old portraits. Opposite the en- 
trance is a gilt pyramid, which represents the amount of gold produced 
in the Province between 1862 and 1870, — 5 tons, 8 cwt., valued iit 
$ 3,373,431. Most of this gold has been coined at the U. S. Mint in Phila- 
delphia, and is purer and finer than that of California and Montana. 

On the corner of Granville and Prince Streets, near the Parliament 
Building, is the new and stately stone building of the Young Men's Cliris- 
tian Association, with its reading-rooms and other departments. The 
massive brownstone house of the Halifax Club is to the S., on HoUis St. 

The * Citadel covers the summit of the hill upon whose slopes the city is 
built, and is 250 ft. above the level of the sea. 

The Citadel is a fortress of the first class, according 
to the standards of the old school; though of late years the government 
has bestowed much attention on the works at George's Island, which are 
more important in a naval point of view. 

The works were commenced by Prince Edward, the Duke of Kent, and the father 
of Queen Yictoria, who was then Commander of tue Forces on this station. He em- 
ployed in the service a large number of the Maroons, who had been conquered by 
the British, and were banished from Jamaica, and subsequently' deported to Sierra 
Leone. Changes and additions have been niade nearly every year since, uutii the 
present immense stronghold has been completed. It is separated from the glacis by 
a deep moat, over which are the guns on the nvimcrous bastions. The massive ma- 
sonry of the walls seems to defy assault, and the extensive barracks within arc said 
to be bomb-proof. During the years 1878-74 the artillery has been changed, and 
the previous mixed armament has been to a great degree replaced by muzzle-load- 
ing Woolwich guns of heavy calibre, adapted for firing the conical Palliser shot with 
points of chilled iron. The visitor is allowed to walk around the circuit of the ram- 
parts, and this elevated station affords a broad view on either side. Perhaps the 
best prospect is that from the S- E. bastion, overlooking the crowded city on the 
sloj)es below; the narrow harbor with its shipping; Dartmouth, sweeping up to- 
ward Bedford Basin; Fort Clarence, below Dartmouth, with its dark casemates; 
McNab's Island, crowned with batteries and shutting in the Eastern Passage ; the 
outer harbor, with its fortified points, and the ocean beyond. 

Near the portal of the citadel is an outer battery of aniiquated guns; and at the 
S. end of the glacis are the extensive barracks of the Royal Artillery. Other mili- 
tary quarters are seen on the opposite side of the Citadel. 

"But if you cast your eyes over yonder magnificent bay, where vessels bearing 
flags of all nations are at anchor, and then let your vision sweep y^Mst and over the 
islands to the outlets beyond, where the quiet ocean lies, bordered with fcg-banks 
that loom ominously at the boundary -line of the horizon, you will see a picture of 
marvellous beauty ; for the coast scenei-y here transcends our own sea-shores, botli 
in color and outline. And behind us again stretch large green plains, dotted vifli 
cottages, and bounded with undulating hills, with now and then glimpses of bine 



HALIFAX. RnutelO. 97 

water; and as we walk down Citadel Ilill, we feel half reconciled to Halifax, its 
quaint mouldy old siable?, its soldiers and sailors, its fogs, cabs, penny and half- 
penny tokens, and all its little, odd, outlandish peculiarities"' (CozzuSS.) 

Lower Water St. borders the harbor-lVont, and gives access to the 
wharves of the various steamship and packet lines. It runs from the 
Ordnance Yard, at the foot of Buckingham St., to the Government reser- 
vation near George Island, and presents a remarkably dingy and dilapi- 
dated a]ipearance tln-oughout its entire length. 

Tlie Queen's Dockyard occupies ^ M. of the shore of tlie upper liarbor, 
and is surrounded on the landward side by a high stone-wall. It contains 
the usual paraphernalia of a first-class navy-yard, — storehouses, machine- 
shops, docks, arsenals, a hospital, and a line of officers' quarters. It is 
much used by the frigates of the British navy, both to repair and to refit, 
and the visitor maj' generally see liei-e two or three vessels of Her Britan- 
nic Majesty. 

The Dockyard was founded in 1758, and received great additions (including the 
present waif) in 1770. During the two great wars with the United States it was 
invaluable as a station for the royal navy, whose fleets thence descended upon the 
American coast. Many trophies of the war of 1812 were kept here (as similar marine 
mementos of another nation are kept in the Brooklyn and Washington Navy-Yards), 
including the figure-head of the unfortunate Amei'ican frigate, the Chesapeake, 
which was captured in 1813, off Boston Harbor, by the British frigate Shannon, and 
was brought into Halifax with great rejoicing. It is, perhaps, in kindly recognition 
of the new fraternity of the Anglo-American nations, that the Imperiaf Government 
has lately caused these invidious embiems of strife to be removed. 

The Dockyard is not open to the public, but the superintendent will generally 
admit visitors upon presentation of their cards. 

In the X. W. part of the city, near the foot of Citadel Hill, is the 
Military Hospital, before which is the Garrison Chapel, a plain wooden 
building on whose inner walls are many mural tablets in memory of ofli- 
cers who have died on this station. Beyond this point, Brunswick St. 
runs N. W. by the Church of the Redeemer to St. George's Church, a sin- 
gular wooden building of a circular form. At the corner of Brunswick 
and Gerrish Sts. is a cemetery, in which stands a quaint little church 
dating from 1761, having been erected by one of the first companies of 
German immigrants. 

On Gottingen St. is the Church of St. Joseph, where the Catholic seamen 
of the fleet attend mass on Sunday at 9^ a. m. Near this building is the 
Orphan Asylum of the Sisters of Charity. 

Farther N. on Gottingen St. is the Deaf and Dumb Asylum, beyond 
which, on North St., is the Roman Catholic College of St. Mary, at Belle 
Air. This institution is under the charge of the Christian Brothers, and 
has the same line of studies as an American high-school. Farther out on 
Gottingen St. is the Admiralty House, the official residence of the com- 
mander-in-chief of the North-American and West-Indian Squadrons, be- 
yond which are the Wellington Barracks, over the Richmond railway- 
station. From the plateau on which the secluded Admiralty House is 
5 'g 



98 Route 19. . HALIFAX. 

located, the visitor ctin look down on the Queen's Dockyard, the fleet, 
and the inner hai-bor. 

The Roman Catholic Cathedral of St. Mary is on the Spring Garden 
Road, near its intersection with Pleasant St. It has recently been much 
enlarged and improved by the addition of an elegant granite facade and 
spire, in florid Gothic architecture. The Cathedral fronts on an old and 
honored cemeterj^, on whose E. side is a finely conceived * monument to 
Welsford and Parkei-, the Nova-Scotian heroes of the Crimean War. 
(Major Welsford was killed in the storming of the Redan.) It consists of 
a small but massive arch of brownstone, standing on a broad granite base, 
and supporting a statue of the British lion. Opposite the cemetery, on 
Pleasant St., is the Presbyterian Church of St. Matthew (under the care 
of the Rev. Mr. Laing). Above the Cathedral, on the Spring Garden 
Road, is the handsome building of the Court House, well situated amid 
open grounds, near the jail and the capacious drill-sheds. 

The Public Gardens are on the Spring-Garden Road, and cover 18 acres, 
charmingl}^ laid out, with pleasant paths, winding ponds, deep shrubber- 
ies, and a wealth of rich flowers. A military band plays here Saturday 
afternoons, and sometimes on summer evenings, when the Gardens are 
lighted by electricit3^ The Wanderers' Athletic-Club grounds are on the 
side toward the Citadel; the celebrated Camp-Hill Cemetery on the W.; 
the great Convent of the Sacred Heart, in pleasant grounds, and the Poor- 
Ilouse, on the S.; and the splendid new buildings of Dalhousie College. 
In this region also the new Church-of-England Cathedral (Bishop Frederick 
Courtney-, late of St. Paul's Church, Boston) is being built. 

The Government House is a short distance be^-ond St. Matthew's 
Church, on Pleasant St., and is the official residence of the Lieutenant- 
Governor of Nova Scotia. It is a plain and massive old stone building, 
with projecting wings, and is nearly surrounded by trees. Farther S , on 
Morris St., is the Anglican Cathedral of St. Luke, a plain and homely 
wooden building. Beyond this point are the pretty wooden churches and 
villas which extend toward Point Pleasant. 

At the foot of South St. are the Ordnance Grounds, from whose wharf the lower 
harbor is overlooked. About 1,800 ft. distant is George's Istaiid, on which is 
a powerful modern fortress, bearing a heavy armament ft'om which immense chilled- 
iron or steel-pointed shot could be hurled against a hostile fleet. This position is 
the key to the harbor, and converges its tire with that of Fort Clareyice, a low but 
massive casemated work, 1 M.' S. E. on the Dartmouth shore, whose guns could 
sweep the Eastern Passage and the inner harbor. The passage from the outer har- 
bor is defended by the York Redoubt, near Sandwich Point, by a new line of bat- 
teries on the N, W. shore of McNab's Island, and by the forts on Point Pleasant. 

At the corner of Prince and Barrington Sts. is St. Paul's Epi.<copnl 
Church, a plain and spacious old building (built in 1750), with numerous 
mural tablets on the inner walls. Dalhousie College and Universify, near 
the Public Garden, was founded by the Earl of Dalhousie while he was 
Govcrnor-(jeneral of Canudii. Its design was to proNide means for thii 



HALIFAX. Pumtc 19. 99 

liWei-al education of young- inoii wlu) (li<l not wisli to go (or were debnrreil 
Iruiu i^oing) to King's College, at Windsor. Its ancient halls, at Duke 
and Harrington Sts., were demolished in 1887, to make room for the new 
city buildings. 

In the summer of 1746 the great French Armada sailed from Brest to conquer the 
British North-American coast from Virginia to Newfoundland. It was commanded 
by the Duke d"Auviile,aud was compo.-^od of the line-of-batfle ships Tridnit, Ar'hnt, 
Mars, and Alcide, 64 guns each ; the Nortlnmiberland ^ CnriUon ,Ti^re, Leo/mr//, and 
Rni077imee, 60 guns each; the Diamant, 50; Megere, 30; Argonaute, 26; Prince 
d' Orange, 26; the Par/ait, Mercure, Palme, Girous, Perle, and 22 other frigates, 
with 30 transports, carrying an army of 3,150 soldiers. D'Anville's orders were to 
" occupy Louisbourg, to reduce Nova Scotia, to destroy Boston, and ravage the 
coast of New England."' The Armada was dispersed, however, by a succession of 
unparalleled and" disastrous storms, and D'Anviile reached Chebucto Hay (Halifax) 
on Sept. 10, with only 2 ships of the line and a few transports. Six days Inter the 
unfortunate Duke died of apoplexy, induced by grief and distress on account of the 
disasters which his enterprise had suffered. The Vice-Admiral D'Estournelle com- 
mitted suicide a few days later. Some other vessels now arrived here, and immense 
barracks were erected along the Bedford Basin. 1,200 men had died from scurvy on 
the outward voyage, and the camps were soon turned into hospitals. Over 1,000 
French soldiers 'ftnd 2-300 Micmac Indians died around th(! Basin and were buriecj 
near its quiet waters. Oct. 13, the French fleet, numbering 5 ships of the Une 
and 25 frigates and transports, sailed from Halifax, intending to attack Annapolis 
Royal ; but another terrible storm arose, while the vessels were off Cape Sable, and 
scattered the remains of the Armada in such wide confusion that they were obliged 
to retire from the American waters. 

The Indians called Halifax harbor Chebucto, meaning "the chief haven," and thg 
French named it La Bate Saine, "on account of the salubrity of the air." 

In the year 1748 the British Lords of Trade, incited by the people of Massachu- 
setts, determined to found a city on the coast of Nova Scotia, partlj- in prospect of 
commercial advantages, and partly to keep the Acadians in check. Parliament 
voted £40,0<)0 for this purpo.-e ; and on June 21, 1749, a fleet of 13 transports 
and the sloop-of-war Sphinx arrived in the designated harbor, bearing 2,370 colo- 
nists (of whom over 1,-500 were men). The city was laid out in July, and was named 
in honor of George Montagu, Earl of Halifax, the head of the Lords of Trade. The 
Acadians and the Indians soon sent in their submi.i.^ion ; but in 1751 the suburb of 
Dartmouth was attacked at night by the latter, and many of its citizens were massacred. 
500 Germans settled here in 1751-52, but it was found dimcuit to preserve the col- 
ony, since so manj- of its citizens passed over to the New-England Provinces. The great 
fleets and armies of Loudon and Wolfe concentrated here before advancing against 
Louisbourg and Quebec ; and the city afterwards grew in importance as a naval sta- 
tion. Representative government was established in 1758, and the Parliament of 
1770 remained in session for 14 years, while Halifax was made one of the chief sta- 
tions whence the royal forces were directed upon the insurgent American colonies. 
After the close of the Revolutionary War, many thousands'of exiled Loyalists took 
refuge here ; and the wooden walls and towers with which the city had been forti- 
fied were replaced with more formidable defences by Prince Edward, 

The ancient palisade-wall included the space between the present Salter, Earrjng- 
ton, and Jacob Streets, and the harbor; and its citadel was the small Government 
House, on the site of the present Parliament Building, which was surrounded wjta 
hogsheads filled with sand, over which light cannons were displayed. 

The growth of Halifax during the present ccatuiy has been very slow, in view of 
its great commercial advantages and possibilities. The presence of large bodies of 
troops, and the semi-military regime of a garrison-town, have had a certain efPect in 
deadening the energy of the citizens. Great sums of money were, however, made 
here during the American civil war, when the sympathies of the Haligonians were 
warmly enlisted in favor of the revolted States, and many blockade-runners sailed 
hence to reap rich harvests in the Southern ports. The cessation of the war put a 
stop to this lucrative trade : but it is now hoped that the completion of t'le Inter- 
colonial Railway to St. John and Quebec will greatly benefit HaUfax. There is a 
rivalry between St. John and HaUfax which resembles that between Chicago and St. 
Louis, and leads to similar journalistic tournaments, St. John claims that she has 



100 Route 20. THE ENVIRONS OF HALIFAX. 

a first-class hotel and a theatre, which Halifax has not ; and the NoTa-Scotian city 
answers, in return, that she has the best cricket-club and the champion oarsman of 
America. 

Sir William Fen wick Williams, of Kars, Bart., K. C. B., D.C.L., was born at Hali- 
fax in 1800. After serving- in Ceylou, Turkey, and Persia, he instructed the Moslem 
artillery, and fortified the city of Kars. Here he was besieged by the Russians, under 
Gen. Mouravieff. He defeated the enemy near the city, but was forced to surrender 
after a heroic defence of six montlas, being a sacrifice to British diplomacy. He was 
afterwards Commander of the Forces in Canada. 

Admiral SirProvo Wallis was born at Halifax in 1791, and was early engaged in 
the great battle between the Cleopatra, 32, and the French Ville de Milan, 46. He 
afterwards served on the Curieux, the Gloire, and the Shannon, to whose command 
he succeeded after the battle with the Chesapeake. 

20. The Environs of Halifax. 

The favorite drive from Halifax is to the Four-Mile House, and along 
the shores of the * Bedford Basin. This noble sheet of water is 5 M. long 
and 1-3 M. Avide, with from 8 to 36 fathoms of depth. It is entered by- 
way of the Narrows, a passage 2^-5 M. long and ^ M. Avide, leading frem 
Halifax Harbor. It is bordered on all sides by bold hills 200-330 ft. iu 
height, between which are 10 square miles of secure anchoring-ground. 
The village of Bedford is on the W. shore, and has several summer hotels 
(Bellevue, Seaview, etc.). The steamer Goliah leaves Hallfiix for Bedford 
at 11 A. M. and 2 p. m. daily. During the summer the light vessels of the 
Royal Halifax Yacht Club are seen in the Basin daily ; and exciting rowing- 
matches sometimes come off near the Four-Mile House. 

Along the shores of the Bedford Basin were the mournful camps and hospitals of 
the French Armada, in 1746, and 1,390 men were buried there. Their remains were 
found by subsequeni settlers. The first permanent colonies along these shores were 
made by Massachusetts Loyalists in 1784. 

Hammond'^ s Plains are 7 M. W. of Bedford, and were settled iu 1815 by slaves 
brought away from the shores of Maryland and Virginia by the Eritisli fleets. This 
is, like the other villages of freed blacks throughout the Province, dirty and dilapi- 
dated to the last degree. To the N. W. is the Pockv-och Lake, 4 M. long, with di- 
versified shores, and abounding in trout. 

" The road to Point Pleasant is a favorite promenade in the long Acadian 
twilights. Midway between the city and the Point lies 'Kissing Bridge,' 
Avhich the Halifax maidens sometimes pass over. Who gathers toll nobody 
knows, but — " 

Point Pleasant projects between the harbor and the N. W. Arm, and is 
covered with pretty groves of evergreen trees, threaded by narrow roads, 
and now laid out for a public park. The principal fortification i.^ 

Fort Ogilvie, a garrisoned post, wliose artillery commands the channel. 
A short distance tD the W. is the antiquated structure called i\\e Prince of 
Wales's Tower, from which fine views are afforded. The Point Pleasant 
Battery is near the water's edge, and is intended to sweep the outer 
passage. 

The Northwest Arm is 4 M. long and ^ M. wide, and is a river-like 
inlet, which runs N. W. from the harbor to within 2 M. of the Bedford Basin. 



DARTMOUTH. Rmde 21. 101 

ks shores are high and picturesque, and on tlie Halifax side are several 
fine mansions, surrounded by rrnaniental grounds. In the upper pait of 
the Arm is Jfthille Island, wliere American prisoners were l\ept during 
the War of 1812. FerffHson''s Cove is a picturesque village on the N. W. 
Arm, inhabited chietly by fishermen and pilots. The Mapltwood is a new 
and pleas^uiit summer-resort, on the >Jorthwest Arm. 

Tlie steamer Micmac makes regular trips during the summer up the 
N. \V. Arm, and to McNdb's Jsland, which is 3 M. long, and has a sum- 
mer hotel and some heavy military works, with Meagher's Beach and the 
^Military Range. On Lawler's Island is the Quarantine Hospital. The 
fortress on George's Island is the key of the harbor. 

Dartmouth {Acadian House) is situated on the harbor, opposite the city 
of Halifax, to which a steam ferry-boat makes frequent tr.ps. It has sev- 
eral pretty villas belonging to Halifax merch.ants; and at about ^ M. from 
the villnge is the spacious and imposing hmh\\n% oi the Mount Hope Asylum 
for the Insane, a long, castellated granite building which overlooks the 
harbor. Dartmouth has 6,000 inhabitants and 5 churches, and derives 
prosperity from the working of several foundries and steam-tanneries. It 
is also the seat of the Chebucto Marine Railway. This town was founded 
in 1750, but was soon afterwards destroyed, with some of its people, by the 
Indans. In 1784 it was reoccupied b}' men of Nantucket who preferred 
royalism to republicanism. The Montague Gold-Mines are 4 M. from 
Dartmouth, and have yielded in paying quantities. Cow Bay is a few miles 
S. E. of Dartmouth, and is much v sited in summer, on account of its fine 
marine scenery and the facilities for bathing. The Dartmouth Lakes com- 
mence within 1 M. of the town, and were formerly a favorite resort of 
sportsmen, but are now nearly fished out. 

21. The Basin of Minas. — Halifax to St. John. 

Halifax to Wind.sor, see Route IS (iti reverse). 

The stf-umboitToute from 'A'itidsor to St. John i.s here described. Steamboats 
ply between Kiusi.«p<'rt, ilantsport, and I'ansboro". 

As the steamer moves out from her wharf at Windsor, a pleasant view 
ii^ afforded of the old college town astern, with the farming village of Fal- 
mouth on the 1., and shipbuilding Newport on the r., beyond the mouth of 
the St. Croix River. The shores are high and ridgy, and the mouth of 
t'.ie Kennetcook River is passed (on the r.) about 5 M. below Windsor. 
2-3 M. below is Hantsport (1. bank), a thriving marine village opposite 
the mouth of the Cockmigon River. On Horton Bluff (1. bank) is a light- 
house which sustains a powerful fixed white light, visible for 20 M., and 
beyond this point the steamer enters the * Basin of Minas. On the 1. are 
the low ridges of Long Island and Boot Island, rising on the margin of a 
wide and verdant meadow. The meadow is Grand Pre, the land of 
Evangeline (see Route 22). Mile after mile the fertile plains of Comwallis 



102 Route 21. CAPE BLOMIDON. 

open on the 1., bounded by the Horton hills and the dark line of the North 
Mt. In advance is the bold and clear-cut outline of Cape Blomidon, 
brooding over the water, and on the r. are the low but well-defined bluffs 
of Chivirie, rich in gypsum and limestone. It is about 22 M. from the 
mouth of the Avon to Parrsboro', and the course of the steamer continu- 
all}' approaches Blomidon. 

Cape Blomidon is a vast precipice of red sandstone of the Triassic era, with 
strong marks of volcanic action. " The dark basaltic wall, covered with thick 
woods, the terrace of amygdaloid, with a luxuriant growth of light-green shrubs 
and young trees that rapidly spring up on its rich and moist surface, the precipice 
of bright red sandstone, always clean and fresh, and contrasting strongly with the 
trap above, .... constitute a conibination of forms and colors equally striking, if 
eeen in the distance from the hills of Horton or Parrsboro', or more nearly from 
the sea or the stony beach at its base. Bloniidon is a scene never to be forgotten by 
a traveller who has wandered around its shores or clambered on its giddy preci- 
pices." The cape is about 570 ft. high, and presents an interesting sight when its 
dark-red summit is peering above the white sea-fogs. Sir William Lyell, the tmi- 
nent British geologist, made a careful study of the phenomena of this vicinity. 

The Indian legend says that Blomidon was made by the divine Glooscap, who 
broke the great beaver-dam off this shore and swung its end around into its present 
position. Afterwards he crossed to the new-made cape and strewed its slopes with 
the gems that are found there to-day, carrying thence a set of rare orname7its for 
his ancient and mysterious female companion. The beneficent chief broke away the 
beaver-dam because it was flooding all the Cornwallis Valley, and in his conflict with 
the Great Beaver he threw at him huge masses of rock and earth, which are the 
present Five Islands. W. of Vtkogunrheech (Blomidon) the end of the dam swept 
around and became Pleegun (Cape Split). 

As Blomidon is left on the port beam, the steamer hurries across the 
rapid currents of the outlet of the Basin. In front is seen the white vil- 
lage of Parrsboro', backed by the dark undulations of the Cobequid Mts. 
Just before reaching Parrsboro' the vessel approaches and passes Par- 
iridf/e Island (on the 1.), a singular insulated hih 250 ft. high, and con- 
nected With the mainland at low tide by a narrow beach. 

Partridge Island was the Pulower.h Munegoo of the Micmacs, and was a favorite 
location for legends of Glooscap. On his last great journey from Newfoundland by 
Pictou through Acadia and into the unknown West, he built a grand road from 
Fort Cumberland to this shore for the use of his weary companions. This miracu- 
lously formed ridge is now occupied by the post-road to the N. W., aud is called by 
the Indians Oivuwkun {the causeway). At Partridge Island Glooscap had his cel- 
ebrated revel with the supernatural Kit-poos-e-ag-unow, the deliverer of all op- 
pressed, who was taken out alive from his mother (slain by a giant), was thrown 
into a well, and, being miraculously preserved there, came forth in due time to fulfil 
his high duty to men. These marvellous friends went out on the Basin in a stone 
canoe to fish by torchlight, and, after cruising over the dark waters for some time, 
speared a monstrous whale. They tossed him into the canoe " as though he were a 
trout," and made for the shore, where, in their bi-otherly feast, the whale was en- 
tirely devoured. 

Parrshoro' (two inns) is prettily situnted at the mouth of a small river, 
and under the shelter of Partridge Island. It has al)Out 2,000 inhabitants, 
with five churches, and is engaged in the lumber-trade. The beauty of 
the situat on and the views, together with the sporting facilities in the 
back-country, have made Parrsboro" a pleasure resort of considerable re- 
pute, and the neat hotel called the Summer House is well patronized. This 
is one of the best points from which to enter the fine hunting and fishing 



PAllRSBORO'. Route "^l. 103 

districts of Cumberlant.1 County, and guides and outfits may be secured. 
There are G boarding-houses here, and '2 at Partridge Island. Tiie railroad 
from Parrsboro' to >Spring-llill Junction (32 M.), on the Intercolonial line, 
runs through the best scenery c£ the Cobequid Mts. 

"Parrsboro' enjoys more than its share of broad, gi-avelly beach, overhunp: with 
clifted and woody bkiffs. One fresh from the dead walls of a great city would be de- 
lighted with the sylvan shores of Parrsboro". The beach, with alfits bi-eadtb, a 
miracle of pebbly beauty, slants steeply to the surf, which is now rolling up in curl- 
ing clouds of green and white. Here we turn westward into the great bay itself, 
going with a tide that rushes like a mighty river toward a cataract, whirling, boil- 
ing, bre:ikiug in half-moons of crispy foam."' (L. L. Noblk.) 

'* Pleasant Parrsboro", with its green iiills, neat cottages, and sloping shores laved 
by the sea when the tide is full, but wearing quite a diflerent aspect when the tide 
goes out ; for then it is left perched thirty feet high upon a red clay bluff, and the 
fishing-boats which were afloat before are careened upon their beam ends, high and 
dry out of water. The long massive pier at which the steamboat lately landed, 
lifts up its naked bulk of tree-nailed logs, reeking with green ooze and sea-weed ; and 
a high conical island which constitutes the chief feature of the landscape is trans- 
formed into a bold promontory, connected with the mainland by a huge ridge of 
brick-red clay." (Hallock.) 

Gentlemen who are interested in geological studies will have a rare chance to make 
collections about Parrsboro' and the shores of Minas. The most favorable time is 
when the bluffs have been cracked and scaled by recent frosts ; or just after the close 
of the winter, when much fresh debris is found at the foot of the cliffs. Among the 
minerals on Parti-idge Island are: analcime, apophyllite, amethyst, agate, apatite, 
calcite (abundant, in yellow crystals), chabazite, chalcedony, cat's-eye, gypsum, 
hematite, heulandite, magnetite, stilbite (very abundant), jasper, cacholong, opal, 
semi-opal, and gold-bearing quartz. About Cape Blomidou are found analcime, 
agate, amethyst, apopliyllite. calcite, chalcedony, chabazite-gmelinite, furuelite, 
hematite, magnetite, heulandite, laumouite, fibrous gypsum, malachite, mesolite, 
native copper, natrolite, stilbite, psilomelane, and quartJz. Obsidian, malachite, gold, 
and copper are found at Cape d"Or ; jasper and flue quartz crystals, on Spencer's 
Island ; augite, amianthus, pyrites, and wad, at Parrsboro' ; and both at Five Islands 
and Scotsman"s Bay there are beautiful specimens of moss agate. At Coruwallis 
is found the rare mineral called AVichtisite (resembling obsidian, in gray and deep 
blue colors), which is only known in one other place on earth, at Wichtis, in Fin- 
land. The purple and violet quartz, or amethyst, of the Minas shores, is of great 
beauty and value. A Blomidon amethyst is in the crown of France, and it is now 
270 years since the ^ieur de Monts carried several large amethysts from Partridge 
Island to Henri IV. of France. These gems are generally found in geodes, or after 
fresh falls of trap-rock. 

Advocate Harbor and Cape d' Or. 

A daily stage runs W. from Parrsboro' through grand coast scenery, for 
28 M., passing the hamlets of Fox Harbor and Port Greville, and stop- 
ping at Advocate Harbor. This is a sequestered marine hamlet, devoted 
to shipbuilding and the deep-sea fisheries, and has about 600 inhabitants. 
It is about 60 M. from Amherst, by a road leading across the Cobequid 
I\Its. and through Apple River (see page 80). Some of the finest marine 
scenery in the Provinces is in this vicinity. 3-4 M. S. is the immense 
rocky peninsula of * Cape d'Or, almost cut off from the mainland by a deep 
ravine, in whose bottom the salt tides fl iw. Cape d'Or is 500 ft. h gh, and 
has recently become noted for its rich copper deposits. Oti" this point there 
is a heavy rip on the flood-tide, which flows with a velocity of 6 knots an 
hour, and rises 33-39 ft. 8 M. W. of Advocate Harbor, and visible across 



104 Route %1. BASIN OF MINAS. 

the open bay, is * Cape Chignecto, a wonderful headland of rock, 730 - 800 
ft. high, running down sheer into the deep waters. This mountain-prom- 
ontory marks the division of the currents of the Minas and Chignecto 
Channels. 

Cape d'Or is sometimes called Cap Bore, on the ancient maps, and received its 
name on account of the copper ore which was found here by the early French ex- 
plorers, and was supposed to be gold. The Acadians afterwards opened mines here, 
and the name, Les Mines, originally applied to a part of this shore, was given to the 
noble salt-water lake to the E. Mhias is either an English modification or the 
Spanish equivalent thereof Cape d'Or was granted to the Duke of Chandos many 
years ago, but he did not continue the mining operations. 



After leaving Parrsboro' the steamer runs W. through the passage be- 
tween Cape Blomidon and Cape Sharp, which is 3^ M. wide, and is swept 
by the tide at the rate of 6 - 8 knots an hour. On the r. the ravines of 
Diligent River and Fox River break the iron-bound coasts of Cumberland 
County; and on the 1. is a remarkable promontory, 7 M. long and 1 M. 
wide, with an altitude of 400 feet, running W. from Blomidon between 
the channel and the semicircular bight of Scotsman's Bay. Cape Split 
is the end of this sea-dividing mountain, beyond which the S shores 
fall suddenly away, and the steamer enters the Minas Channel. 12 M. 
beyond Cape Split, Spencer's Island and Cape Spencer are passed on the 
N., beyond which ai-e the massive cliffs of Cape d'Or. On the 1. are the 
unvarying ridges of the North Mt., with obscure fishing-hamlets along 
the shore. To the N. the frowning mass of Ca/je Chignecto is seen ; and 
the course passes within sight of the lofty and lonely rock of Jsle Haute, 
which is 7 M. from the nearest shore. It is 1^ M. long and 350 ft. high, 
and is exactly intersected by the parallel of 65' W. from Greenwich. 

The steamer now passes down over the open waters of the Bay of Fundy. 
St John is about 62 nautical miles from Isle Haute, in a straight line, and 
is a little N. of W. from that point, but the exigencies of navigation re- 
quire a course considerably longer and more southerly. This portion of 
the route is usually traversed at night, and soon after passing the powerful 
first-class red revolving-light on Cope )S/>e?ice?'( New Brunswick), the steamer 
runs in by the Partridge-Island light, and enters the harbor of St. John 
about the break of da^'. 

St. John, see page 15. 

The Basin of Minas. 

The steamer leaves Parrsboro' daily, for the villages on the N. and 

E. shores of the Basin of Minas. As the times of lier departure are very irregular, 
owing to the necessity of following the tide, and her kuuiings var\ according to cir- 
cumstances, the following account relates to the line of the coast rather tlian to her 
route. She is announced to call at Parrsboro', Londonderry, Maitland, Kingsport, 
Summerviile, and Windsor. 

Soon after leaving Parrsboro', Frazer's Bead is passed on the 1., with 
its cliffs elevated nearly 400 feet above the water. About 15 M E. of 



BASIN OF MINAS. Route 21. 105 

Parrsboro' are the remarkable insulated peaks of the *Five Islands, the 
chief of wh'ch is 350 ft. high, rising from the waters of the Basin. On the 
adjacent shore is the village of Tive Islands, occupying a very picturesque 
position, and containing 600 inhabitants. In this vicinity are found iron, 
copper, and plumbago, and white-lead is extracted in considerable quan- 
tities from minerals mined among the hills. Marble was formerly produced 
here, but the quarries are now abandoned. The mass ve ridge variously 
known as Mt. Gerrish, St. Peter's IMt., and Red Head, looms over the vil- 
lage to a height of 500 ft., having a singularly bold and alpine character 
for so small an elevation. On its lower slopes are found pockets containing 
fine barytes, of which large quantities are sent to the United States. A 
mass of over 150 pounds' weight was sent from this place to the Paris Ex- 
position of 1867. A few miles W. of the village are the falls on the North 
River, which are 90 ft. high; and to the N. is the Avild and picturesque 
scenery of the Cobequid Mts. Stages run from Londonderry Station to 
Five Islands, which is indeed one of the loveliest spots in Canada. The 
sea-beach is nragnificent, and the facilities for bathing and boating ex- 
cellent. Broderick's Hotel commands the finest part of the shore. 

" Before them lay the outlines of Five Islands, rising beautifully out of the water 

between them and the mainland The two more distant were rounded and 

•well wooded; the third, which was midway among the group, had lofty, precipitous 
sides, and the summit was dome-shaped; the fourth was like a tab fe, rising with 
perpendicular sides to the height of 200 ft., with a flat, level surface above, which 
was all overgrown with forest trees. The last, and nearest of the group, was by far 
the most singular. It was a bare rock which rose irregularly from the sea, termi- 
nating at one end in a peak which rose about 200 ft. in the air It resembled, 

more than anything else, a vast cathedral rising out of the sea, the chief mass of the 
rock corresponding with the main part of the cathedral, while the tower and spire 
■were there in all their majesty. For this cause the rock has received the name of 

Pinnacle I.'^land At its base they saw the white foam of breaking surf; while 

far on high around its lofty, tempest-beaten summit, they saw myriads of sea-gulls. 
Gathering in great white clouds about this place, they si^orted and chafed one an- 
other ; they screamed and uttered their shrill yells, which sounded afar over the 
sea." (DeMille.) 

10 M. beyond these islands the steamer passes the lofty and far-project- 
ing peninsula of Economy l Point, and enters the Cobequid Bay (which 
ascends to Truro, a distance of 36 M.). After touching at Londonderry, 
on the N. shore, the steamer crosses the bay to Maitland (two inns), a 
busy and prosperous shipbuilding village at the mouth of the Shubenacadie 
River (see page 82). 

The S. shore of the Basin of Minas is lined with bluffs 100-180 ft. high, 
but is far less imposing than the N. shore. Noel is about 15 M. W. of 
^Maitland, and is situated on a pretty little bay between Noel Head and 
Burnt-Coat Head. It has 300 inhabitants, and produces the mineral called 
terra alba, used in bleaching cottons. It is not found elsewhere in Amer- 
ica. After leaving Noel Bay and passing the lighthouse on Burnt-Coat 

1 Economy is derived from the Indian name Kenomee, which was applied to the same 
place, and means " Sandy Point." 



106 Route 21. BASIN OF MINAS. 

Head, the trend of the coast is followed to the S. W. for about 20 M. to 
Walton, a village of 600 inhabitants, at the mouth of the La Tete River. 
Many thousand tons of gypsum and plaster of Paris (calcined gypsum) are 
annually shipped from this port to the United States. Immense quantities 
are exported also from the coasts of Chivirie, which extend from Walton 
S. W. to the mouth of the Avon River. The whole back country is com- 
posed of limestone soil and gypsum-beds, whose mining and shipment 
form an industry of increasing importance. Beyond the Chivirie coast the 
steamer ascends the Avon River to Windsor. 

The Basin of Minas was the favorite home of Glooscap, the Hiawatha of the Mic- 
macs, whose traditions describe him as an envoy from the Great Spirit, who had the 
form and habitsof humanity, but was exalted above all peril and sickness and death. 
He dwelt apart and above, in a great wigwam, and was attended by an old woman 
and a beautiful youth, and " was never very far from any one of them," who re- 
ceived his counsels His power was unbounded and supernatural, and was wielded 
against the enchantments of the magicians, while his wisdom taught the Indians 
how to hunt and fish, to heal diseases, and to build wigwams and canoes. He 
named the constellations in the heavens, and many of the chief points on the Acadian 
shores. The Basin of Minas was hi.s beaver-pond ; Cape Split was the bulwark of 
the dam ; and Spencer's Island is his overturned kettle. He controlled the ele- 
ments, and by his magic wand led the caribou and the bear to his throne. The 
allied powers of evil advanced with immense hosts to overthrow his great wigwam 
and break his power ; but he extinguished their camp-fires by night and summoned 
the spirits of the frost by whose endeavors the land was visited by an intense cold, 
and the hostile armies were frozen in the forest. On the approach of the English he 
turned his huge hunting-dogs into stone and then passed away ; but will return 
again, right Spencer's Island, call the dogs to life, and once more dispense his royal 
hospitality on the Minas shores. 

" Now the ways of beasts and men waxed evil, and they greatly vexed Glooscap, 
and at length he could no longer endure them ; and he made a rich feast by the 
shore of the great lake (Minas). All the beasts came to it : and when the feast was 
over, he got into a big canoe, he and his uncle, the Great Turtle, and they went 
away over the big lake, and the beasts looked after them till they saw them no 
more. And after they ceased to see them, they still heard their voices as they sang, 
but the sounds grew fainter and fainter in the distance, and at last they wholly died 
away ; and then deep silence fell on them all, and a great marvel came to pass, 
and the beasts who had till now spoken but one language no longer were able to 
understand each other, and they all fled away, each his own way, and never agaiu 
have they met together in council. Until the day when Glooscap shall return to 
restore the Golden Age, and make men and animals dwell once more together in 
amity and peace, all Nature mourns. The tradition states that on his departure 
from Acadia the great snowy owl retired to the deep forests to return no more until 
he could come to welcome Glooscap ; and in those sylvan depths the owls, even yet, 
repeat to the night, ' Koo koo skoos ! Koo koo skoos ! ' which is to say, in the In- 
dian tongue, ' 0, I am sorry ! 0,1 am sorry ! ' And the loons, who had been the 
huntsmen of Glooscap, go restlessly up and down through the world, seeking vainly 
for their master, whom they cannot find, and wailing sadly because they find him 
not" 










THE BASIN OF MINAS 
THE OLD ACADIAN LAND. 



THE LAND OF EVANGELINE. Route 22. 107 

22. The Land of Evangeline. 

This beautiful aud dooply interosting- district is visited with the greatest 
ease from the academic town of Wolfville {Central House ; Acadia ; Ameri- 
can), which is 127 M. from St. John and 03 M. from Halifax (by Route 18), 
on an arm of the Basin of Minas, and engaged in shipbuilding and farm- 
ing. It has 1500 inhabitants, 5 churches, Acadia Seminary (7 teachers and 
70 pupils), and the Horton Academy (4 teachers, 60 students). Acadia 

Colhrje is a Baptist institution, with 6 professors, 60 students, and 300 
alnnnii. The college buildings occupy a line situation on a hill 

which overlooks " those meadows on the Basin of Minas which Mr. Long- 
fellow has made more sadly poetical than any other spot on the Western 
Continent." The * view from the belfry of the college is the most beau- 
tiful in this vicinity, or even, perhaps, in the Maritime Provinces. Far 
across the Cornwallis Valley to the N. is the North Mt., which terminates, 
15 M. away (21 M. by ro^d), in the majestic bluff of Cape Blomidon, 
dropping into the Basin of Minas. To the N. E. is the "great meadow" 
which gave name and site to the village of Grand Pre. Steamboats run 
on the Basin of Minas in summer, connecting Wolfville with the other 
ports, and giving a very delightful journey (see page 101). 

A good road leads E. (in 3 M. ) from Wolfville to Lower Horton, a scat- 
tered hamlet among the hills. By passing down from this point to the 
meadows just beyond the railway-station of Grand Pre, the traveller 
reaches the site of the ancient village. Standing on the platform of the 
station, he sees a large tree at the comer of the field on the left front. 
Near that point are the faint remains of the foundations of the Acadian 
church. The tradition of the country-side claims that the aged willow- 
tree near by grows on the site of the shop of Basil the Blacksmith, and 
that cinders have been dug up at its foot. The destruction effected by 
the British troops was complete, and there are now no relics of the an- 
cient settlement, except the gnarled and knotty trees of the orchards, the 
lines of willows along the old roads, and the sunken hollows which indi- 
cate the sites of former cellars. Near the shore is shown the place where 
the exiles were put on shipboard. A road leads across the rich diked 
marsh in 2-3 M. to Long Island, a slight elevation fronting on the Basin 
of Minas, and on which dwells a farming population of about 120 persons. 
To the N. E. is the mouth of the Gaspereaux River, and on the W. the 
Cornwallis River is discharged. The eai-ly Acadians reclaimed these rich 
meadows from the sweep of the tides by building light dikes to turn the 
water. There were 2,100 acres of this gained land in their Grand Pr^, 
but the successive advancing of other lines of aggression has driven back 
the sea from a much larger area, all of which is very productive and val- 
uable. \n 1810 the broad meadow between Grand Pr6 and Wolfville was 
enclosed bv new dikes and added to the reclaimed domain. 



108 Route 22. GRAND PRE. 

Noble's Massachusetts regiment was cantoned at Grand Pre in the winter of 
1746-7. During a heavy snow-storm, before dawn on Feb. 11, the town was at- 
tacked by 346 irench troops, arranged in 10 divisions, and commanded by Coulon 
de Villiers. The sentinels were vigilant, and gave tue alarm as soon as the hostile 
columns were jeen over the lotty snow-dritts ; but the assailants dashed in fearlessly 
and soon can-ied the strongest of the barracks. Col. Noble was slain while fighting 
in his shirt. 134 Americans were killed and wounded and 69 were made prisoners ; 
21 of the attacking party were killed and wounded. In the morning 350 of the 
Massachusetts men were concentrated in a stone bviilding, and fought with much 
bravery, the combat being waged from house to houfcc through the streets. By 
noon their ammunition was expended, and they surrendered to the Frccch, beii.g 
paroled and allowed to march out with the honors of war. A convivial dincer wa;-- 
then enjoyed by the officers of the whilom hostile forces, and the Americans were 
sent to Annapolis under an Acadian guard, while the French soon afterward retired 
to Beaubassin, bearing their captured artillery and four stands of colors which had 
been taken in the battle. 

The shores of the Basin of Minas were settled in the early part of the 17th century 
by immigrants fi'om La Rochelle, Stintonge, and Poitou. They soon erected dikes 
by which the tide was kept off from the meadows, and from these rich reclaimed 
lands they gathered great crops. Several cargoes cf grain were exported to Boston 
every year, and the settlement soon became large and prosperous. The Indians 
regarded these new neighbors with affection, and lived on terms of perfect peace 
with them. During the wars between France and Great Britain, the Acadians were 
strongly patriotic, and took up arms in the cause of their native land. Intensely 
devoted to the Roman Catholic Church, and considering these wars as in the nature 
of ci-usades, they fought valiantly and well. 

But when Nova Scotia was finally ceded to Great Britain (in 1713), their position 
became very awkward and painful. Many of them refused to take the oath of alle- 
giance, and for others a modified forn-ula wr.s frrmed. The emissaries of the Frerch 
power at Louisbourg and Quebec circulated an-ocg them and maintained their loy- 
alty to France at a fever heat, while their priests acted continually on the same 
policy, and kept up the hostility to the conqueiors. The British Provincial govern- 
ment was located at Annapolis, and though its laws were miid and clement, it could 
not command respect on account of its physical weakness. Under these chcum- 
stances, hucdrcds of the Acadians joined the French arnJes during every war be- 
tween the two powers, and proved dangerous fccmen, on account of their knowledge 
of the land. British settlers were unwilling to locate among these people on accoi nt 
of their hostility, and the fairest lands of the Province were thus held by an alien 
and hostile population. The great conflict between England and France in the New 
World was still in full course, and the latter power was in possession of the Canadi.s. 
The majority of the Acadians were doubtless peaceful and honest, occupied only 
with their local affairs; but som.e of them were hostile and troublesome, and the 
anom.alous position of these alien subjects was a source of incessant danger to the 
English power. It was therefore determined in the council at Halifax, in 1765, that 
they must either take an unconditional oath of allegiance to Great Britain or leave 
the country. Deputations were called in from all the French settlen.ents, and the 
alternatives were clearly set forth before them. Almost unaniniOusly they refused 
to take the oath, preferring {the;y said) exile and confiscation to such an act, and 
seeming to regard their neutrality of the past 45 years as having become a vested 
right. It seems as if diplomacy and argun.ent were tried to their utmost limit upon 
these unyielding recusants, and it then becam.e necessary for the honor and safety 
of the Province, to retort to sterner n.easures. It was resolved that the whole Aca- 
dian people should be banished to the southern American colonics, and that thek 
estates and buildings, cattle and vessels, should be declared forfeited to the Crown. 

The Acadians were taken by surprise. A British detachment and licet dcttroyed 
all the villages, farms, and churches, on the Chignee to Basin and the Pctiiccdiac 
lliver, sweeping up n.any prisoners and meeting with some sharp fighting. Monc- 
ton destroyed fehediac, Remsheg, and other towns on the Gulf coast ; IMurray gath- 
ered up the people about Windsor and to the E. ; and Ilar.dfickl put the French 
Annapolitans on shipboard, except a few who escaped into the woods. AVintlow 
collected 1,923 persons at Grand Pr6 and embarked them, and burred 255 houses, 
276 barns, and 11 m.ills. (Winslow was a Massachusetts officer, and 20 >eair later 
his own family was driven into exile for hostility to America.) The people of Grand 
Pr6 were sent to North Carolina, Virginia, and Maryland. 



GRAND PRE. Itoute S3. lOlj 

" AYhile we see plainly that EBg;l;ind could never really control this Province 
while they remained in it, all our feelings of humanity are affected by tlie removal 

itself, and still more by the severity of the attendant circumstaiiccs They were 

the victims of great error on their own part, and of delusive views that false friends 
had instilled into their minds, and the impulses of national and)ition and jealousy 
precipitated their fate. It is, however, some consolation to know that very many of 
the exiles returned within a few years to their native land, and though not restored 
to their native farms, they became an integral and respected portion of our jiopula- 
tion, displaying, under all changes, those simple virtues that they had inherited,— 
the same modest, humble, and peaceable disposition, that had been their early attri- 
butes."' (Murdoch.) (See also CL.iRE, Chezzetcook, and TiiAC.vmE.) 

In 1760 a large colony of families from Connecticut, in a fleet of 22 vessels con- 
voyed by a man-of-war, arrived at Grand Pr»3 and occupied the deserted farms. 
" they found 60 o.x-carts and as many yokes, which the unfortunate French had 
u.sed ia conveying their baggage to the vessels that carried them away from the 
country ; and at the skirts of the forest heaps of the bones of sheep and horned cat- 
tle, that, deserted by their owners, had peri.shed in winter from the lack of food. 
They also met with a few straggling fomilies of Acadians who had escaped from the 
scrutinizing search of the soldiers at the removal of their countrymen, and who, 
afraid of sharing the same fate, had not ventured to till the land, or to appear in 
the open country. They had eaten no bread for five years, and had subsisted on 
vegetables, fish, and the more hardy part of the cattle that had survived the sever- 
ity of the first winter of their abandonment." (Haliburton ) 

" This is the forest primeval. The murmuring pines and the hemlocks, 
Bearded v.ith moss, and in garments green, indistinct in the twilight, 
Stand like Druids of e'd, with voices sad and prophetic, 
Stand like harpers hoar, with beards that rest on their bosoms. 
Loud from its rocky caverns, the deep-voiced neighboring ocean 
Speaks, and in accents disconsolate answers the wail of the forest. 

" This is the forest primeval ; but where are the hearts that beneath it 
Leaped hke the roe, when he hears in the woodland the voice of the huntsman? 
Where is the thatch-roofed village, the home of Acadian farmers, — 
Men whose lives gli led on like rivers that water the woodlands. 
Darkened by shadosvs of earth, but reflecting an image of heaven ? 
Waste are those pleasant ftirms, and the farmers forever departed 1 
Scattered like dust and leaves, when the mighty blasts of October 
Seize them, and whirl them aloft, and sprinkle them far o'er the ocean. 
Naught but tradition remains of the beautiful village of Grand Pr6. 

" In the Acadian land, on the shores of the Basin of Minas, 
Distant, secluded, still, the little village of Grand Pre 
Lay in the fruitful valley. Vast meadows stretched to the eastward, 
Giving the village its name, and pasture to flocks without number- 
Dikes, that the hands of the farmers had raised with labor incessant. 
Shut out the turbulent tides; but at cerfciin seasons the flood-gates 
Opened, and welcomed the sea to wander at will o'er the meadows. 
West and south there were fields of flax, and orchards and corn-fields 
Spreading afar and unfenced o"er the plain ; and away to the northward 
Blomidon rose, and the forests old, and aloft on the mountains 
Sea-fogs pitched their tents, and nusts from the mighty Atlantic 
Looked on the happy valley, but ne'er from their station descended. 
There, in the midst of its farms, reposed the Acadian village. 
Strongly built were the houses, with frames of oak and of chestnut, 
Such as the peasants of Normandy built in the reign of the Henries. 
Thatched were the roofs, with do.'mer-windows ; and gables projecting 
Over the ba.sement below protected and shaded the doorway. 
There in the tranquil evenings of summer, when brightly the sunset 
Lighted the village street, and gilded the vanes on the chimneys, 
Matrons and maidens sat in snow-white caps and in kirtles 
Scarlet and blue and green, with distaffs spinning the golden 
Flax for the gossiping looms, whose noisy shuttles within doors 
Mingled their sound with the whir of the wheels and the songs of the maidens 



110 Routed. GHAND PRE. 

Solemnly down the street came the parish priest, aEd the children 
Paused in their play to kiss the hand he extended to bless them. 
Reverend walked he among them ; and up rose matrons and maidens, 
Hailing his slow approach with words of affectionate welcome. 
Then came the laborers home from the field, and serenely the sun sank 
Down to his rest, and twilight preA'ailed. Anon from the belfry 
Softly the Angelus sounded, and over the roofs of the village 
Columns of pale blue smoke, like clouds of incense ascending, 
Rose from a hundred hearths, the homes of peace and contentment. 
Thus dwelt together in love these simple Acadian farmers, — 
Dwelt in the love of God and of man. Alike were they free from 
Fear, that reigns with the tyrant, and envy, the vice of republics. 
Neither locks had they to their doors, nor bars to their windows ; 
But their dwellings were open as daj^ and the hearts of the owners ; 
There the richest was poor, and the poorest lived in abundance." 

The poet then describes " the gentle Evangeline, the pride of the vil- 
lage." 

" Fair was she to behold, that maiden of seventeen summers, 

Black were her eyes as the berry that grows on the thom by the wayside, 
Black, yet how softly they gleamed beneath the brown shade of her tresses ! 
Sweet was her breath as the breath of kiue that feed in the meadows. 
When in the harvest heat she bore to the reapers at noontide 
Flagons of home-brewed ale, ah I fair in sooth was the maiden. 
Fairer was she when, on Sunday morn, while the bell from its turret 
Sprinkled with holy sounds the air, as the priest with his hyssop 
Sprinkles the congregation, and scatters blessings upon them. 
Down the long street she passed, with her chaplet of beads and her missal, 
Wearing her Norman cap, and her kirtle of blue, and the ear-rings, — 
Brought in the olden time from France, and since, as an heirloom, 
Handed down from mother to child, through long generations. 
But a celestial brightness — a more ethereal beauty — 
Shone on her face and encircled her form, when, after confession, 
Homeward serenely she walked, with God's benediction upon her. 
When she had passed, it seemed like the ceasing of exquisite music." 

After a heautifii] description of the peaceful social life of the Acadians, 

and the betrothal of Evangeline, the poet tells of the arrival of the English 

fleet, the convocation of the people, the royal mandate, the destruction of 

Grand Pre, and the weary exile of the villagers. 

" So passed the morning away. And lo ! with a summons sonorous 
Sounded the bell from its tower, and over the meadow a drum beat. 
Thronged erelong was the church with men. Without, in the churchyard. 
Waited the women. They stood by the graves, and hung on the headstones 
Garlands of autumn-leaves and evergreens fresh from the forest. 
Then came the guard from the ships, and marching proudly among them 
Entered the sacred portal. 'With loud and dissonaut clangor ^ 
Echoed the sound of their brazen drums from ceiling and casement, — 
Echoed a moment only, and slowly the ponderous portal 
Closed, and in silence the crowd awaited the will of the soldiers. 
Then uprose their commander, and spake from the steps of the altar, 
Holding aloft in his hands, with its seals, the royal commission. 
' Ye are convened this day,' he said, ' by his Majesty's orders. 
Clement and kind has he been ; but how have you auswei'ed his kindness, 
Let your own hearts reply I To my natural make and my temper 
Painful the task is I do, which to you I know must be grievous. 
Yet must I bow and oliey, and deliver the will of our monarch ; 
Namely, that all your lands, and dwellings, and cattle of all kinds 
Forfeited be to the crown ; and that you yourselves from this province 
Be transported to other lands. God grant you may dwell there 
Ever as faithful subjects, a happy and peaceable people ! 
Prisoners now I declare you ; for such is his Majesty's pleasure.' 



GRAND TRE. Route '22, 111 

There disorder prevailed, and tlie tumult and stir of embarking. 

Busily plied the Ireiirlited Imats ; and in the confusion 

Wives were torn from tlieir husbands, and mothers, too lat«, saw their children 

Left on the laud, extending their arms, with wildest entre;ities. 

Suddenly rose from the south a light, as in autumn the blood-red 

Moon climbs the crystal walls of heaven, and o"er the horizon 

Titan-like stretches its hundred hands upon mountain and meadow, 

Seizing the rocks and the rivers, and piling huge shadows together. 

Broader and ever broader it gleamed on the roofs of the village. 

Gleamed on the sky and the sea, and the ships that lay in the roadstead. 

Columns of shining smoke uprose, and flashes of tiame were 

Thrust through their folds and withdrawn, like the quivering hands of a martyr. 

Then as the wind seized the gleeds and the burning thatch, and uplifting, 

Whirled them aloft thi"Ough the air, at once from a hundred house-tops 

Started the sheeted smoke, with flashes of flame intermingled. 

Many a weary year had passed since the burning of Grand Pr6, 

When on the falling tide the freighted vessels departed, 

Bearing a nation, with all its household gods, into exile, 

Exile without an end, and without an example in story. 

Far asunder, on separate coasts, the Acadiaus landed ; 

Scattered were they, like flakes of snow, when the wind from the northeast 

Strikes aslant through the fogs that darken the Banks of Newfoundland. 

Friendless, homeless, hopeless, they wandered trom city to city, 

From the cold lakes of the North to sultry Southern savannas, — 

From the bleak shores of the sea to the lands where the Father of Waters 

Seizes the hills in his hands, and drags them down to the ocean. 

Deep in their sands to bury the scattered bones of the mammoth. 

Friends they sought and homes ; and many, despairing, heart-broken, 

Asked of the earth but a grave, and no longer a friend or a fireside. 

Written their history stands on tablets of stone in the churchyards." 

Lo^•GFELLOw■s Evangeline. 

" Much as we may admire the various bays and lakes, the inlets, promontories, 
and straits, the mountains and woodlands of this rarely visited corner of creation, — 
and, compared with it, we can boast of no coast scenery so beautiful, — the valley of 
Grand Pre transcends all the rest in the Province. Only our valley of Wyoming, 
as an inland picture, may match it, both in beauty and tradition. One had its Ger- 
trude, the other its Evangeline ''' (Cozzeks ) 

" Beyond is a lofty and extended chain of hills, presenting a vast chasm, appar- 
ently burst out by the w iters of 19 rivers that empty into the Basin of Minas, and here 
escape into the Bay of Fundy. The variety and extent of this prespect, the beauti- 
ful verdant vale of the Gaspereaux ; the extended township of Horton interspersed 
■with groves of wood and cultured fields, and the cloud-capped summit of the lofty 
cape that terminates the chain of the North Mt., form an assemblage of objects 
rarely united with so striking an effect." 

" It would be difficult to point out another landscape at all equal to that which is 
beheld from the hill that overlooks the site of the ancient village of Minas. On 
either hand extend undulating hills richly cultivated, and intermingled with farm- 
houses and orchards. From the base of these highlands extend the alluvial mead- 
ows which add so much to the appearance and wealth of Horton. The Grand 
Prairie is skirted by Boot and Long Islands, whose fertile and well-tilled fields are 
sheltered from the north by evergreen forests of dark foliage. Beyond are the wide 
expanse of waters of the Basin of Minas, the lower part of Cornwallis, and the isles 
and blue highlands of the oppusite shores. The charm of this prospect consists in 
the unusual combination of hill, dale, woods, and cultivated fields ; in the calm 
beauty of agricultural scenery ; and in the romantic wildness of the distant forests. 
During the summer and autumnal months immense herds of f att.e are seen quietly 
cropping the herbage of the Grand Prairie; while numerous vessels plving on the 
Basin convey a pleasing evidence of the prosperity and resources of this fertile dis- 
trict." (Halibueton.) 



n2 Route 23. ST. MARY'S BAY. 

23. Annapali3 Eoyal to Clare snd Yarmouth. 

The railway from Annapolis to Bear River and Digby was opened in 1891, contin. 
uing thie older n.ilw .y route from Di^by to Yarmoutli. The ruuning of iocai steam- 
boats on Annapolis Basin is thus rendered uncertain. 

From St. John or Halifax to Annapolis Royal, see Route 18. 

The stage-routes from Digby to Clare and to West Port give charming views of the 
marine scenery of St. Mary's Bay. Tiie Western-Counties Railway lies about 3 M. 
from the highway, with mail-service from its stations to the villages aloug the coast. 

Stations. — Digby to Jordantown, 4 M. ; Bloomfield, 9; "North Range, 11; 
PIympton,14; Port Gilbert, 16 : Weymouth, 22 ; Belliveau, 26; Church Point, 3f) ; 
Little Broolv. 32; Saulnierville, 3i ; Meteghan, 37; Hectanooga, 46 ; Norwood, 49 ; 
Brazil, 54 ; Green Cove, 57 ; Ohio, 60 ; Hebron, 62 ; Yarmouth, 67. 

We add also the distances on the old highway. 

Itinerary. — Annapolis Royal; Clementsport, 8J M. ; Victoria Bridge, 13i; 
Smith's Cove, 16; Digby, 20^; St. Mary's Bav, 27* ; "Weymouth Road, 32; Wey- 
mouth Bridge, 38 ; Belliveau Cove, 43 ; Clare, 50 ; Meteghan Cove, 59; Cheticamp, 
63 ; Bear River, 74 ; Yarmouth Lakes, 81 ; Yarmouth, 90. 

The railway lies farther inland than the highway, traversing a com- 
paratively new country, where beautiful lakes and ponds abound on every 
side. The fare from Yarmouth to Weymouth is .$1.65; to Digby, |2.45; 
to Annapolis, $3; to St. John, $3.50; to Halifax, $6.50; to Boston (lim- 
ited), $7. Annapolis Royal to Digby, see pages 84, 85 (reversed). 

On leaving Digby the line runs S. W., traversing the farming set- 
tlement of Marshall town, and crosses the isthmus between the An- 
napolis Basin and St. Mary's Bay, a distance of about 7 M. Thence- 
forward, for over 30 M., the highway lies near the beautiful * St. Mary's 
Bay, which is about 35 M. long, with a width of from 3 to 10 M. On the 
opposite shore are the higldands of Digb}^ Neck (see Route 24), a continu- 
ation of the North Mt. range. On this shore a wide belt of level land has 
been left between the receding range of the South Mt. (or Blue Mts.) and 
the bay, and the water-front is occupied by numerous farms. 

In St. Mary's Bay the fleet of the Sieur de Monts lay for two weeks, in 1604, while 
the shores were being explored by boat's-crews. The mariners were greatly rejoiced 
in finding what they supposed to be valuable deposits of iron and silver. The 
Parisian priest Aubry was lost on one of these excursions, and roamed through the 
woods for 16 days, eating nothing but berries, until another vessel took him off. 
The name Bale de Ste. Marie was given by Champlain. 

Brighton is at the head of the bay, and is a pleasant agriciiltural vilhige 
with a small inn. The hamlets of Barton (or Specht's Cove) and Gilbert's 
Cove are soon passed, and the stage enters the pretty village of Weymouth 
(two inns), a seaport which builds some handsome vessels, and has a snug 
little trade with the United States and the West Indies. It is at the mouth 
of the Sissiboo IJiver, on whose opposite shore is the Acadian hamlet of 
New E(litibur(/h. Across St. Mary's Bay is the niantinie vilhige of Sandy 
Cove. Steamers run weekly from Wevmouth to St John and to Yarmouth. 

The line now ascends the r. bank of the Sissiboo River to Weymotith 
Bridge (Jones's Hotel), a maritime village of about the same size as Wey- 
mouth. It is 4 M. from tlie mouth of the river; and 2-3 M. to tlie J', 
are the Sissiboo Falls. The shore of St. Mary's Bay is rc^'ained at Belli' 
veau Cove (small inn), an Acadian hamlet ciiiefiy devoted to agriculture 



CLARE. ■ Route 23. 113 

and shipbuilding. From this point down to Beaver River, and beyond 
through the Tusket and Pubnico regions, the shore is occupied by a range 
of hamlets which are inhabited by the descendants of the old Ac^idian- 
Froiich. 

The Clare Settlements wore founded about 1763 by the descendants of the 
Acailians who had been exiled to New England. After the conque.st of Canada these 
unfortunate wanderer-s were .-sutTered to return to Nova Scotia, but tliey found their 
former domains about the Ba.<in of Minas aheady occupied by the New-Englanders. 
So they removed to the less fertile but still pleasaut shores of Clare, and founded new 
homes, alternating their farm labors with fishing-voyages on St. Mary's Bay or the 
outer sea. This little commonwealth of i - 5,OCtO people was for many years governed 
and directed by '"the amiable and venerated Abbe Segoigne,"'a patrician priest who 
had tied from France during the Revolution of 179.3. His power and influence were 
unlimited, and were exerted only for the peace and well-being of his people. Under 
this benign guidance the colony flourished amain ; new hamlets arose along the 
shores of the beautiful bay ; and an Acadian village was founded in the oak -groves 
of Tusket. M. Segoigne also conciliated the Micmacs, learned their language, and 
was highly venerated by all their tribe. 

" When the traveller enters Clare, the houses, the household utensils, the foreign 
language, and the uniform costume of the inhabitants excite his surprise ; because 
no parish of Nova Scotia has such a distinctive character. The Acadians are far 
behind their neighbors in modes of agriculture : they show a great reluctance to 
enter the forest, and in place of advancing upon the highlands, they subdivide their 
lands along the shore and keep their children about them. They preserve their 
language and customs with a singular tenacity, and though commerce places them 
in constant communication with the English, they never contract marriage with 
them, nor adopt their manners, nor dwell in their villages. This conduct is not due 
to dislike of the Enghsh government ; it must be attributed rather to ancient usage, 
to the national character, and to their systems of education. But if they are infe- 
rior to the English colonists in the arts which strengthen and extend the influence 
of society, thej' can proudly challenge comparison in their social and domestic vir- 
tues. Without ambition, living with frug.dity, they regulate their life according to 
their means; devoted to their ancient worship, they are not divided by rehgious 
discord; in fine, contented with their lot and moralin their habits of life, they en- 
joy perhaps as much of happiness aud gooijness as is possible in the frailty of human 
nature." (Haliburton.) 

" Still stands the forest primeval ; but under the shade of its branches 
Dsvells another race, with other customs and language. 
Only along the shore of the mournful and misty Atlantic 
Linger a few Acadian peasants, whose fathers from exile 
Wandered back to their native land to die in its bosom. 
In the fisherman's cot the wheel and the loom are still bu.sy ; 
Maidens still wear their Norman caps and their kirtles of homespun, 
And by the evening fire rei eat Evangeline's story, 
While from its rocky caverns the deep-voiced neighboring ocean 
Speaks, and in accents disconsolate answers the wail of the forest." 

Longfellow's Evangeline. 

The road nms S. W. from Belliveau Cove to Grosses Coques(300 inhabi- 
tants) and Port Acadie, Clare, and Saulnierville, a hne of hamlets whose 
inhabitants are engaged in farming and the fisheries. A road runs 7 M. 
E. to New Tusket, an Anglo-Acadian village m the interior, near the 
island-studded Lake Wentworth. Meteghan (Sheehan's Hotel) is a bay- 
side village of 700 inhabitants, nearly all of whom are Acadians and farm- 
ers. There is a large ehurch here, and half a-dozen stores for country 
trade among the neighboring farmers. Meteghan is the last village on 
St. Mary's Bay, and the road now turns to the S. and passes the inland 



114 Route 23. YARMOUTH. 

hamlet of Cheticamp. Cape Cove is an Acadian settlement, and is finely 
situated on a headland which faces the Atlantic. The line leaves the 
vicinity of the sea and strilvcs inland through a region of forests and lakes; 
reaching Yarmouth about 13 M. S. of Beaver River. 

Yarmouth {Hotel Lome; Yarmouth ; Queen) is awealthy and prosperous 
seaport on the S. W. coast of Nova Scotia, and is situated on a narrow- 
harbor 3 M. from the Atlantic. It has 6,280 inhabitants, with 10 churches, 
3 banks, 4 local marine-insurance companies, and semi-weekly and 
weekly newspapers. It has a public library and a small museum of nat- 
ural history. The schools are said to be the best in the Province, and 
occupy conspicuous buildings on the ridge back of the town. The Court- 
House is in the upper part of the town ; near which is the spacious Baptist 
church, built in Novanglian architecture. The Episcopal church is a new 
building, and is one of the best in Nova Scotia. 1 M. out is a rural ceme- 
tery of 40 acres. Yarmouth is built along a line of low rock}^ heights, 
over a harbor which is nearly drained at Ioav tide. It receives a goodly 
number of summer visitors, most of whom pass into the Tusket Lakes or 
along the coast to the E., in search of sport. 

Yarmouth has been called the most American of all the Provincial towns, and is 
endowed with the energy and pertinacity of New England. Though occupying a 
remote situation on an indifferent harbor, with a barren and incapable back country, 
this town has risen to opulence and distinction by the indomiiable industry of its 
citizens. In 1761 the shipping of the country was confined to one 25-ton fishing-boat; 
in 1884 it amounted to over 300 vessels, measuring 125,000 tons, and is now far in 
advance even of that figure. It is claimed that Yarmouth, for her population, is 
the largest ship-owning port in the world In addition to these great commercial 
fleets, the town has established a steamship-line to St. John and Boston, and is 
building, almost alone, the Western-Counties Railway to Annapolis. It is expected 
that great benefit will accrue from the timber-districts which will be opened by this 
new line of travel. " Yarmouth's financial success is due largely to the practical 
judgment and sagacity of her mariners. She has reared an army of shipmasters of 
whom any country might be proud,*' and it is claimed that a large proportion of 
the Cape-Ann fishing-captains are natives of this country. On the adjacent coast, 
and within 12 M. of Yarmouth, are the marine hamlets of Jegoggin, Sandford 
(Cranberry Head), Arcadia, Hebron, Hartford, Kelley's Cove, Jebogue, Darhng's 
Lake (Short Beach), and Deerfield. These settlements have over 6,000 inhabitants 
in the aggregate. The coast was occupied by the French during the 17th century, 
but was afterwards abandoned. About the middle of the last century these de- 
serted shores were taken possession of by colonies of fishermen from Massachusetts 
and Connecticut, who wished to be nearer their fishing-grounds ; and the present 
population is descended from these hardy men and the Loyalists of 1783. The an- 
cient Indian name of Yarmouth was Keespoogwitk, which means " Land's End." 

The steel steamships Yarmouth and Boston ply between Yarmouth and Boston, 
leaving Yarmouth every Wednesilay and Saturday at'ternoon ; 

and Uaving Lewis Wharf, Boston, every Tuesday and Friday at 10 

A M. Time of vovage, 17 liours ; fare, ij^o (return 

ticket, $S). 

The steamboat for Barrington, Shelburne, Lockeport, Liverpool, Lunenburg, and 
Halifax leaves Yarmouth early Thursday mornings, starting back on Monday even- 
ings. A steamer runs from Yarmouth to Westport and St. John every Monday and 
Thursday at 4 P. M., leaving to return Tuesday and Friday. 

Divison"s coaches leave every Weduesday and Saiurday for Argyle, Barrington, 
and Shelburne. 

Yarmouth has many handsome residences and shops, and manufactories of iron 
goods, machinery, steam-engines, yachts, yarns, woollen cloths, etc. It is the second 
town in the Domiuiou for registered tonnage. 



TUSKET LAKES. Route 23. 115 

The Tusket Lakes and ArchijJelar/o. 

The township of Yiirmouth contains 80 bikes, and to a bird flying overhead it 
must seem like a patehwork of blue aud green, in which the blue predominates. 
They are nearly all connected with the Tusket River, and are generally small, very 
irregular, and surrounded by young forests. They rarely attaiu th« width of 1 M., 
and are strung along the cour.<e of the river and its tributaries, joined by narrow 
aisles of water, aud breaking off into bays which the uuguided voyager would often 
ascend in uiist;ike for the main channel In the lower lakes, where the tide flows, 
near Argyle Bay, are profitable eel-fisheries. The remoter waters, towards the Blue 
Mts., afford good trout-fishiug. 

The westerly line of lakes are visited from Yarmouth hy riding 5 M. out 
on the Digby road and then turning off to Deerfiekl, near the Salmon-River 
Lakes, or passing over to the settlement at Lake Geortje (12-14 M. from 
Yarmouth), which is 1^ M. wide and 3-4 M. long, and is the largest lake in 
the township. A little farther N. is the Acadian settlement at Cedar Lake. 

The best route for the sportsman is to follow the Barrington telegraph- 
road 10 M. N. E. to Tusket {American House), a prosperous shipbuilding 
village, with three churches, near the head of ship-navigation on the Tus- 
ket River. The scenery in this vicinity is picturesque, its chief feature 
being the many green islands off the shores; and the river has been famous 
for fisheries of salmon and gaspereaux, now impaired by the lumber-mills 
above. From this point a chain of lakes ascends to the N. for 20 M., in- 
cluding the central group of the Tuskets, and terminating at the island- 
strewn Lake Wentworfh. The best place is found by following the road 
which runs N. E. 15-18 M., between Vaughan Lake and Butler's Lake, 
and by many lesser ponds, to the remote settlement of Kempt (small hotel), 
near the head-waters of the central and western groups. To the N. and E. 
of this point are the trackless forests and savage ridges of the Blue Mts., 
and the hunter can traverse these wilds for 40 M. to the N. E. (to the Liv- 
erpool Lakes) or for 30 M. to the S. E (to the Shelburne settlements), 
without meeting any permanent evidences of civilization. 

The ancient Indian tradition tells that squirrels were once very numerous in this 
region, and grew to an enormous size, endangering the lives of men. But the Great 
Spirit once appeared to a blameless patriarch of the Micmacs, and offered to reward 
his virtue by granting his utmost desire After long meditation the chief asked the 
Divine Visitor to bless the land by taking the power from the mighty squirrels, upon 
which the mandate was issued and the dreaded animals shrank to their present in- 
significant size. And hence it is known that ever since that day the squirrel has 
been querulous at the sight of man. 



S. of Tusket village are the beautiful groups of the Tusket Isles, stud- 
ding the waters of Argyle Bay and the Abuptic Harbor. Like most pther 
collections of islands on this continent, they are popularly supposed to be 
365 in number, though thev do not claim to possess an intercalary islet 
like that on Lake George (New York), which appears only every fourth 
year. The Tuskets vary in size from Morris Island, which ia 3 M. long, 
down to the smallest tuft-crowned rocks, and afford a great diversity of 



116 Route 21^. DIGBY NECK. 

scenery. The outer fringe of the archipelago is threaded by the Halifax 
and Yarmouth steamship (see page 125 j. 

" The scenery of Argyle Bay is extremely beautiful of its kind ; innumerable 
islands and peninsulas enclo.-e the water in every direction Cottages and cul- 
tivated land break tne mas.-es of forest, and the masts of small fishing-vessels peep- 
inu- up from every little cove attest tue multiplied resources which Nature has pro- 
viacd for the supply of the inhabitants." (Capt. Moorson.) 

Auioug these narrow passes hundreds of Acadians took refuge during the persecu- 
tions of 17o8-bU. A British frigate was sent down to hunt them out, but one other 
boats' crews was destroyed by the fugitives among the islands, and they were not 
dislodged. There are now two or three hamlets of Acadians in the region of the 
upper lakes. 

Lake George supplies Yarmouth with water (11 M. distant ; elevation, 105 ft). 
Its gre ttest length is 7 M., and breadtu 'A^. Tue water is of the purest quality, and 
as tje lake is fed by subterranean springs the supply is inexhaustible. 

Tne interior uf Yarmouth, Shelburue, and Queen's Counties is the most famous 
re'j^ion in the Province for moose-huntiug, and hunters from the Provinces, the 
United States, and England annually engage in this sport during the open season 
and are generally rewarded by splendid success. TUe " open season" for moose- 
liunting is from Sept. 15 to Jan. 31. The " open season " for salmon-taking is from 
March 1 to Aug. 1 ; and tne "' open season " for shooting grouse or partridge is from 
Oct. 1 to Jan. 1. These are statutory provisions, the violation of which incurs fines 
and penalties. 

The lakes and streams of Yarmouth County are easy of access to the tourist, who 
can here enjoy at comparatively trifling expense a natural Sportsman's Paradise. 
Their trout and salmon fisheries are among the most famous in Nova Scotia, and 
hundreds of Americans have yearly visited this region. 

24. Digby Neck. 

stages leave Digby at 4 p. m daily, remaining at Sandy Cove over night, and 
reaching West Port (40 M.) at 11 a m 

Distances. — Digby to Rossway, 8)^ M. ; Waterford, 12 ; Centreville, 15 ; Lake- 
side, 17 ; Sandy Cove, 20 ; Little River, 25 ; Petite Passage, 30 ; Free Port ; West 
Port, 40. 

The stage runs S. W. from Digby, leaving the settlements of Marshall- 
town and Brighton on the 1., across the Smelt River. The first hamlet 
reached is Rossway, whence a road crosses to Gulliver's Cove on the Bay 
of Fundy. For over 20 M. the road descends the remarkable peninsula 
of Digby Neck, whose average width, from bay to bay, is about 1^ M. 
On the 1. is the continuous range of dark hills which marks the W. end 
of the North Mt. range, where it is sinking towards the sea. Among these 
hills are found fine specimens of agate and jasper, and the views from their 
summits (when not hidden by trees) reveal broad and brilliant stretches 
of blue water on either side. Fogs are, however, very prevalent here, and 
are locally supposed to be rather healthy than otherwise. On the 1. of the 
road are the broad waters of St. Mary's Bay, far beyond which are the 
low and rugged Blu,e Mts. 

Sandy Coi\e (small inn^ is the metropolis of Digby Neck, and has 400 
inhabitants apd two churchjes. Its people live by farming and fishing, 
and support a fortnightly packet-boat to St. John, N. B. 4 M. S. E., 
across St. Mary?s Bay, is the port of Weymouth (see page 112). Beyond 
Little River village th,e stage crosses the ridge, and the passenger passes 



NOVA-SCOTIA COAST. Route ^5. 117 

the Petite Passage, which separates Digby Neck from Long Ishmd. This 
strait is qiiite deep and 1 M. wide, and has a red-and-white flashing light 
on its N. W. point (Boar's Head). On the opposite shore of the passage 
is a village of 390 inhabitants (mostly fishermen), and the stage now runs 
down Long Island on the Bay of Fundy side. If there is no fog the view 
across the bay is pleasing, and is usvially enlivened by the sails of passing 
vessels. Long Island is about 10 M. long, and 2 M. Avide, and its village 
of Free Port has 700 inhabitants. 

Near the end of Long Island another ferry-boat is taken, and the trav- 
eller crosses the Grand Passage to West Fort {Central Iluuse), a village 
of ijOO inhabitants, most of whom are fishermen, shipbuilders, or sea-cap- 
tains. This town is on Brier Island, the S. E. portal of the Bay of Fundy, 
and is 5 M. long by 2 M. wide. On its E. side are two fixed white lights, 
and on the W. are a fog-whistle and a powerful white light visible for 
15 M. 

25. Halifax to Yarmouth. — The Atlantic Coast of Nova 
Scotia. 

The steamer of the ^^'estern Shore Line runs along the coast of Nova 
Scotia, leaving Halifax for Yarmouth every Monday at 10 p. m. A vessel 
of the Fishwick Line plies between Halifax. Canso, Arichat, Port INIul- 
grave, Port Hawkesbury, Port Hastings, Bayfield, and Charlottetown, 
leaving every Tuesday at 7 A. m., and giving access to all the North- 
Shore ports, and connecting with the Bras d'Or steamboats, for Cape 
Breton. 

Fares. — Halifax to Lunenburg, .S1.50; to Liverpool, $8.50; to Shelburne, 
$4.50; to Yarmouth, §5. Lunenburg to Liverpool, S2 ; to Shelburne, iifS ; to Yar- 
mouth, S4. 50. Liverpool to Shelburne, S2; to YHrmonth, ^3.50. Shelburne to 
Yarmouth, $S. Berths are included in these prices, but the meals are extra. 

"The Atlantic coast of Nova Scotia, from Cape Canso to Cape Sable, is pierced 
■with innumerable small bays, harbors, and rivers. The shores are lined with rocks 
and thou.«ands of islands ; and although no part of the country can properly be con- 
sidered mountainous, and there are but few steep high cliffs, yet the aspect of the 
■whole, if not romantically sublime, is exceedingly picturesque; and the scenery, in 
many places, is richly beautiful.. The landscape which the head of Mahone Bay, in 
particular, presents can scarcely be surpassed." (M'Grf.gor's British America ) 

" The jagged outline of this coa.^t, as seen upon the map, reminds us of the equally 
indented Atlantic shores of Scandinavia ; and the character of the coast as he sails 
along it — the rocky surface, the scanty herbage, and the endless pine forests — re- 
call to the traveller the appeai-ance and natural productions of the same European 
country." (Prof. Johnston.) 

The steamer passes down Halifax Harbor (see page 93), and gains the 
open sea beyond Chebucto Head and the lighthouse on Sambro Island. 
She usually makes a good offing before turning down the coast, in order to 
avoid the far-reaching and dangerous Sambro Ledges. W. of the open 
light of Pennant Bay is Mars Head, on whose fatal rocks the ocean steam- 
ship Atlantic was wrecked, in 1873, when 535 persons were drowned. 



118 Route 25. LUNENBURG. 

This line of coast has been famous for its marine disasters. In 1779 the British 
■war-Tessels North and Helena were wrecked near Sambro, and 170 men were drowned. 
Mars Head derives its name from the fact that the British line-of- battle ship Mars, 
70 guns, was wrecked upon its black ledges. In 1779 the American war-vessel Viper, 
22, attacked H. M. S. Resolution, just off 8ambro, and captured her after a long and 
desperate battle, in which both ships were badly cut to pieces. Cajje Sanriliro was 
named by the mariners of St. Malo early in the 17th century ; and it is thought that 
the present form of the name is a corruption of St Cendre, the original designation. 
The ancient Latin book called the News Orbis (published by Elzevir; Amsterdam, 
1633) says that the islands between Cape Sambro ( Sesa77ibre) and Mahone Bay were 
called the Martyrs' Isles, on account of the Frenchmen who had there been mas- 
sacred hy the heathen Indians. 

Beyond Cape Prospect the deep indentations of St. Margaret's Bay and 
Mahone Bay make in on the N., and 

" breezy Aspotogon 
Lifts high its summit blue." 

The roughest water of the voyage is usually found while crossing the 

openings of these bays. The course is laid for Cross Island, where there 

are two lights, one of which is visible for 14 M. Passing close in by this 

island, the steamer enters that pretty bay which was formerly known to 

the Indians as Malagash, or " Milky," on account of the whiteness of its 

stormy surf. At the head of this bay the white and compact town of 

Lunenburg is seen between two round green hills. The steamer passes 

around the outermost of these, and enters the snug little harbor. 

" The town of Lunenburg is situated at the innermost extremity of a peninsula, 
and to a miJitary traveller presents a more formidable aspect than any other in Nova 
Scotia, the upper houses being placed on the crests of steep glacis slopes, so as to 
bear upon all approaches " (Capt. Moorson.) 

Lunenburg {King's Hotel) is a thriving little seaport, situated on a se- 
cure and spacious harbor, and enjoying a lucrative West-India trade. 
Together with its immediate environs, it has 4,000 inhabitanfs, of whom 
over half are in the port itself. The German character of the citizens is 
still retained, though not so completely as in their rural settlements; and 
the principal churches are Lutheran. The public buildings of Lunenburg 
County are located here. A large trade in lumber and fish is carried on, in 
addition to the southern exports. There are numerous farming communi- 
ties of Germanic origin in the vicinity; and the shore-roads exhibit at- 
tractive phases of marine scenery. 7 M. distant is the beautifully situated 
village of Mahone Bay (see Route 26) ; 4 M. distant are the remarkable sea- 
side ledges called t\iQ Blue Rochs ; to the S. E is the rural settlement of 
Lunenburg Peninsula, off which are the sea-girt farms of Heckman's 
Island ; and 12 M. distant is the gold district of The Ovens. 

This site was anciently occupied by the Indian village of Malagash. In 1745 the 
British government issued a proclamation inviting German Protestants to emigrate 
to Nova Scotia and take up its unoccupied lands In 17r.3, 200 families of Germans 
and Swiss settled at Lunenburg, and were provided with forming implements and 
three years' provisions by the government. They fortified tlieir new domains as 
well as possible, but many of the people were killed by Indians lurking in the woods. 
The settlement was thus held in check until after the Conquest of Canada, when the 
Indians ceased hostilities. In 1777 the town was attacked by two American priTa^ 



IRONBOUND ISLAND. Itnntc :!5. 119 

teers, who landed detachments of armed men and occupied tlic principal buildings. 
After plundering the place and securing a valuable booty, these unwelcome visitors 
.sailed away ivjoicing, leaving Lunenburg to i>ut on the robes of war and anxiously 
yearn for anotiier naval attack, for whose reception spirited provisions were made. " 
Among the people throughout this county German customs are still preserved, as 
at weddings and funerals ; the German language is spoken ; and sermons are deliv- 
ered oftentimes in the Kime tongue. The cows are made to do .service in ploughing, 
and tlie firming implements are of a primitive pattern. A large portion of tlie out- 
door work in the fields is doue by the women, who are generally strong and muscular. 

The Nova-Sootia Central Railway runs from Lunenburg to Bridpewater, 
and to jMiddleton (see papce 8!t)- Steamboats sail from Lunenburg for 
Halifax every Tue.«day and Friday. 

The steamer leaves Lunenburg Harbor, passes Battery Point and its 
lighthouse on the 1., and descends between the knob-like hills of the outer 
harbor. On the r. are the shores of the remarkable peninsula of The 
Ovens. The low cliffs along 

this shore are pierced by numerous caverns, three of which are 70 ft. wide 
at their mouths and over 200 ft. deep. The sea dashes into these dark 
recesses during a heavy swell with an amazing roar, broken by deep 
booming reverberations. 

In 1861 gold was discovered on the Ovens peninsula, and 2,000 
ounces were obtained during that autumn, since which the mining fever 
has subsided, and no earnest work has been done here. The precious metal 
was obtained chiefly by washing, and but little was effected in the way 
of quartz-crushing. 

Beyond Ovens Head the pretty circular indentation of Rose Bay is seen 
on the r., on whose shores is a settlement of 250 German farmers. The 
steamer now passes between Cross Island (1.) and Rose Head, which are 
about 2 M. apart, and enters the Atlantic. When a sufficient offing has 
been made, the course is laid S. W. ^ W. for 8| ]\I. Point Enragd is soon 
passed, and then the vessel approaches * Ironbound Island. This re- 
markable i-ock is about ^ M. long, and rises from the sea on all sides in 
smooth curves of dark and iron-like rock, on which the mighty surges 
of the Atlantic are broken into great sheets of white and hissing foam. 
Upon this dangerous outpost of Nova Scotia there is a I'evolving light, 
which is visible for 13 M. Beyond Ironbound, on the r., is seen the deep 
estuary of the Lahave River, which is navigable to Bridgewater, a distance 
of 13 M., passing for 12 M. through the hamlets of New Dublin, and thence 
through a valley between high and knob-like hills. 

At Fort La Heve in 1636-7, died Isaac de Razilly, " Knight Commander of the 
Order of St. .John of Jerusalem, Lieutenaut-General of Acadie, and Captain of the 
West.-' He was a relative of Cardinal Piichelieu, and had foughtin the campaigns 
of La Rochelle and the coast of Morocco. In 1642 D'Aulnay purchased these do- 
mains from Claude de Razilly, but soon evacuated the place, removing the people to 
Port Royal. By 1G54 the colony had recovered itself, having "undoubtedly the 
best port and the best soil in the whole countrj'." It was then attacked by the 
Sieur le Borgne, who burned all its hou.ses and the chapel. At a later day the new 
Fort La H6ve was attacked by a strong force of New-England troops, who were 
beaten off several times with the loss of some of their best men. But the brave 
Frenchmen were fiaally forced to surrender, and the place was reduced to ruins. 
In 1705 the settlement was again destroyed by Boston privateers. 



120 Route 25. LIVERPOOL. 

When off Cape Lahave the steamer takes a coarse W. by S., which is 
followed for 15| M. The fishing hamlet of Broad Cove is on the shore 
S. W. of Cape Lahave; and when about 9 M. from the cape, the entrance 
of Port Med way is seen. This harbor is 4 M. long and 1^ M. wide, and 
receives the waters of the Port Medway and Pedley Rivers. Port Med- 
way (Dunphy's Hotel) is on its W. shore, and has 600 inhabitants, who 
are engaged in shipbuilding and lumbering. 

The steamer soon rounds the revolving red light (visible 16 M.) on Cof- 
fin's Island, and turns to the N. W. up Liverpool Bay. The shores are 
well inhabited, with the settlement of Moose Harbor on the 1., and Brook- 
lyn (or Herring Cove) on the r. The lighthouse on Fort Point is rounded 
and the vessel enters the mouth of the Liverpool River, with a line of 
wharves on the 1., and the bridge in advance. 

Liverpool ( Village Green Hotel, a, comfortable summer-house; and two 
other inns) is a fioui-ishing seaport with 2,50 ) inhabitants, 5 churches, a 
weekly paper, and a bank. Its principal industries are lumbering, fish- 
ing, and shipbuilding. The town occupies the rocky shore at the mouth 
of the Liverpool River, and its streets are adorned with numerous large 
shade trees. Many summer visitors come to this place, either on account 
of its own attractions, or to seek the trout on the adjacent streams and 
lakes (see Route 27). There are pleasant drives also on the Mill-Village 
Road, and around the shores of the bay. 

Liverpool occupies the site of the ancient Indian domain of Ogumkegeok, made 
classic in the traditions of the Micmacs by the celebrated encounter which took 
place here between the divine Glooscap (see page 106) and the great sorceress of the 
Atlantic coast. The struggle of craft and malevolence against superior power are 
quaintly narrated, though taking forms not pleasing to refined minds, and the con- 
test ends in the defeat of the hag of Ogumkegeok, who is rent in pieces by the 
hunting-dogs of Glooscap. 

In May, 1604, the harbor of Liverpool was entered by Pierre du Guast, '' Sieur de 
Monts of Samtonge, Gentleman in Ordinai-y of the Chamber, and Governor of Pons," 
who had secured a monopoly of the fur-trade between 40° and 54° N. latitude. He 
found a, ship here trading without authority, and confiscated her, naming the har- 
bor Port Rossignol, after her captain, "as though M. de Monts had wished to make 
Bouie compensation to the man for the loss he inflicted on him, by immortalizing 
his n.nme." This designation did not hold to the harbor, but has been transferred 
to the large and beautiful lake near the head-waters of the Liverpool River 

About 1634 a shore-fishery was established here by M Denys and Gov. Razilly. 
This enterprise was for a long time successful, but was finally crippled by the cap- 
ture of its heavily laden freigh ting-ship by the Portuguese. Soon afterward Denys 
■was forced to leave Port Rossignol on account of the machinations of D'Aulnay 
Charnisay, and the settlement was broken up. By the year 1760 a thriving village 
stood on this site, and in the War of 1812 many active privateers were fitted out here. 
In 1832 the port owned 25,000 tons of shipping 

On leaving Liverpool Bay the steamer rounds Western Head and runs 
S. W. ^ S. 14 M. On the r. is the deep embayment of Port IMouton, 
partly sheltered by Mouton Island, and lighted by a fixed red light on 
Spectacle Island. At its head is the farming and fishing settlement of 
Port Mouton, with 350 inhabitants. This inlet was visited by the ex- 
ploring ship of the Sieur de Monts in 1604, and received the name which 



SHELBURNE. Route 25. 121 

it still bears because a sheep here leaped from the deck into the bay and 

was drowned. The shores were settled in 1783 by the disbanded veterans 

of Tarleton's Legion, who had done such valia" t service in the Carolinas. 

In July, 1622, Sir William Alexander's pioneer-ship entered Port Mouton, "and 
discovered three very pleasant harbors and went ashore in one of them, which, after 
the ship's name, they called Luke's Bay, where they found, a great way up, a very 
pleasant river, being three fathoms deep at the entry thereof, and on every side of 
the same they did see very delicate meadows, having Roses white and re 1 growing 
thereon, with a kind of white Lily, which had a daintj- smell."' These shores, which 
were hardly so fair as the old mariner painted them, were soon occupied by a French 
post, after whose destruction they remained in solitude for over a century. 

On Little Hope Island is a revolving red light, beyond which the steamer 
runs W. S. W. 15 ^^ ; then Port Jolt opens to the N. W., on which is a 
fishing-viliage of 200 inhabitants. About 3 j\L beyond is Fort Herbert, a 
deep and narrow estuary with another maritime hamlet. Fai'ther W. is 
the" mouth of Sable River ; but the steamer holds a course too far out to 
distinguish much of these low shores. 3i M. N. is Ram Island, W. of 
which are the ledges otf Ragged Island Harbor, at whose head is a village 
of 350 inhabitants. On the W. side of the harbor is Locke's Island (two 
inns), a prosperous little port of 400 inhabitants, whence the West-India 
trade and the Bank fisheries are carried on. Durir g the season of 1874 
70,000 quintals offish (valued at $250,000) were exported from this point. 
On Carter's Island is a fixed red light, and the sea-swept ledge of Gull 
Rock 4ies outside of the harbor, and has a powerful Avhite light. Beyond 
Western Head the steamer runs across the wide estuaiies of Green Harbor 
and the Jordan River, on whose shores are four maritime hamlets. The 
course is changed to N- W. ^ N., and Bony's and Government Points are 
passed on the r. On the I. Cape Roseway is approached, on which are 
two fixed white lights, visible for 10 and 18 M., standing in a black-and- 
white striped tower. Passing between Surf Point and Sand Point the ves- 
sel turns N. by E., leav'ng Birchtown Bay on the 1., and runs up to Shel- 
burne. The last ^g\\ miles are traversed between the picturesque shores 
of a bay which an enthusiastic mariner has called " the best in the woi-ld, 
except the harbor of Sydney, in Australia." 

Shelburne {Slielbame House, T, E. Kyer, proprietor), is the capital of 
Shelburne County, and has over 1,000 inhabitants and 5 churches. It 
is engaged chiefly in fishing and shipbuilding, and excels in the latter 
branch of business. The harbor is 9 M. long and 1-2 M. wide, and has 
5-7 fathoms of water, without any .'^hoals or flats. It is completely land- 
locked, but can never attain any commercial importance, owing to the 
fact that it is frozen solid di\ring the winter, there being no river currents 
or strong tides to agitate the water. There are granite-ledges near the 
village, and the Roseway River empties into the bay 1 M. distant. Birch- 
toicn is 5 M. from Shelburne, and is at the head of a branch of the bay. It 
is inhabited by the descendants of the negro slaves brought from Mary- 
land and Virginia by the Loyalist refugees, in 1783. The country back 
6 



122 Route 25. POET LATOUR. 

of Shelburne is unimproved, and the roads soon terminate in the great for- 
ests about the Blue Mts. Stages run from this town E. and W. Fares, 
Shelburne to Liverpool, $2.50; to Barrington, $1.50; to Yarmoiith, $4. 

" The town of Shelburne is situated at the N. extremity of a beautiful inlet, 10 M. 
in length and 2 - 3 M in breadth, in which the whole royal navy of Great Britain 
might lie completely landlocked." In 1783 large numbers of American Loyalists 
settled here, hoping to erect a great city on this unrivalled harbor. They brought 
their servants and equipages, and established a cultured metropolitan society. Shel- 
burne soon ran ahead of Halifax, and measures were taken to transfer the seat of 
government here. Within one year the primeval forest was replaced by a city of 
12,000 inhabitants (of whom 1,200 were negroes). The obscure hamlet which had 
been founded here (under the name of New Jerusalem* in 1764 was replaced hy a 
metropolis ; and Gov. Parr soon entered the bay on the frigate La Sophie, amid the 
roaring of saluting batteries, and named the new city Sliellburne. But the place 
had no rural back-country to supply and be enriched by ; and the colonists, mostly 
patricians from the Atlantic cities, could not and would not engage in the fisheries. 
The money which they had brought from their old homes was at last exhausted, and 
then " Shelburne dwindled into insignificance almost as rapidly as it had risen to 
notoriety." Many of its people returned contritely to the United States ; and the 
population here soon sank to 400. " It is only the sight of a few large storehouses, 
with decayed timbers and window-frames, standing near the wharves, that will lead 
him to conclude that those wharves must once have teemed with shipmasters and 
sailors. The streets of the town are changed into avenues bounded by stone fences 
on either side, in which grass plants contest the palm of supremacy with stones." 
Within two years over $2,500,000 were sunk in the founding of Shelburne. 

The steamer leaves Shelburne by the same course on which she entered, 
with the stunted forests of McNutt's Island on the r. Rounding Cape 
Roseway within 1 M. of the lights, she runs down by Gray's Island, pass- 
ing Round Bay and the hamlet of Black Pointy on the bold headland of 
the same name. Negro Island is then seen on the r., and is occupied by 
a population of fishermen ; while its N. E. point has a powerful red-and- 
white flashing light. Inside of this island is the broad estuary of the Clyde 
River, and near by is the large and picturesque fishing-village of Cape 
Negro. Cape Negro was so named by Champlain, in 1604, "on account 
of a rock which at a distance resembles one." The steamer then passes 
the Salvage Rocks, off Blanche Island (Point Jeffreys), and opens the 
broad bay of Port Latour on the N. W. This haven was the scene of 
stirring events during the 17th century, and the remains of the fort of 
Claude de la Tour are still visible here. 

" Claude Turgis de St. Estienne, Sieur de la Tour, of the province of Champagne, 
quitted Paris, taking with him his son Charles Amador, then 14 years old, to settle 
in Acadia, near Poutrincourt, who was then engaged in founding Port Royal." 17 
years afterwards, Charles succeeded to the government on the death of Biencourt, 
Poutrincourt's son, and for 4 years held Fort St. Louis, in the present Port Latour. 
Meantime Claude had been captured by the English and carried to London, where 
he was knighted, and then married one of the Queen's maids-of-honor. Being a 
Huguenot, he was the more easily seduced from his allegiance to France, and he 
offered to the King to procure the surrender of Fort St. Louis (the only French post 
then held in Acadia) to the English So he sailed to Nova Scotia with two friji'ates, 
and asked his son to yield up the stronghold, offering liim liiL>:li honors at London 
and the supreme command in Acadia, on behalf of the English jiowcr. " Claude at 
once told his father that he was mistaken in supposing him capable of giving up tlie 
place to the enemies of the state. That he would preserve it for the king his master 
while he had a breath of life. That he esteemed highly the dignities offered him by 



CAPE SABLE. Runtc .io. 123 

the English king, but sliouUl not buy thoni at the price of treason. That the prince 
he served was able to requite him ; and if not, that fidelity was its own best recom- 
pense." The father employed affectionate intercession and bold menace, alike in 
Tain : and the English naval conuuander then landed his forces, but was severely 
repulsed from the fort, and finally g;ive up the siege. A traitor to France and a 
cause of disaster to England, tlio unfortunate La Tour dared not return to Europe, 
but advised his patrician wife to go back with the Heet. since naught now remained 
for iiim but penury and misery. The noble lady replied, " that she had not married 
him to abandon him. That wherever he should take her, and in svhatever condi- 
tion he might be placed, she would always be his fi'thfnl companion, and that all 
her happiness would consist in softening his grief."' lie tlien threw himself on the 
clemency of his son, who tempered filial affection with military vigilance, and wel- 
comed the elder La Tour, with his fixmily, servants, and equipage, giving him a house 
and liberal subsistence, but making and enforcing the condition that neither himself 
nor his wife should ever enter Fort St. Louis. There they lived in happiness and 
comfort for many years. (See also page 19.) 

The hamlet of Port Latour is seen on the inner shore, and the 
vessel rounds the long low promontory of Baccaro Point, on which is a 
small village and a fixed red light (visible 12 iM.)- On the W. is Cape 
Sable Island, which is 7 M. long and 2-3 M. wide, and has a population 
of 1,636, with three churches. Its first settlers were the French Acadians, 
who had prosperous little hamlets on the shores. In August, 1758, 400 
soldiei"s of the 35th British Regiment landed here and destroyed the settle- 
ments, and carried priest and people away to Halifax. About 1784 the 
island was occupied by Loyalists from the New-England coasts, whose de- 
scendants are daring and adventurous mariners. Cape Sable is on an 
outer islet at the extreme S. point of the island and of Nova Scotia, and is 
8 - 9 M. S. W. of Baccaro Point. 

It is supposed that Cape Sable and the adjacent shores were the ancient lands of 
the Norse discoverers, " flat, and covered with wood, and where white sands were 
far around where they we t, and the shore was low." In the year 994 this point was 
visited by Leif, the son of Eric the Red, of Brattahlid, in Greenland He ancliored 
his ship off shore and landed in a boat ; and when he returned on board he said : 
" This land shall be named after its qualities, and called Markland '' (woodland). 
Thence he sailed southward, and discovered Vinland the Good, on the S. shores of 
Massachusetts and Rhode Island, where for many years the bold Norsemen main- 
tained colonies. In the year lOUT Markland was again visited by Thorfinn Karlsefne, 
who, with 160 men, was sailing sont'i to Yinland. These events are narrated in the 
ancient Icelandic epics of the Saga of Eric the Red and the Saga of Thorfinn Karlsefne 

In 1347 a ship arrived at Iceland from the shores of Markland, which is de- 
scribed by the Annales Skalholtini and the Codex Flateyensis as having been 
smaller than any Icelandic coasting- vessel. In such tiny craft did the fearless 
Norsemen visit these iron-bound shores. 

In the autumn of 1750 there was a sharp naval action off the cape between 
11. M. S. Albany and the French war-vessel St Francis. The engagement lasted 
four hours, and ended in the surrender of the St. Francis, whose convoy, however, 
escaped and reached its destination. 

In July, 1812, the Salem privateer Polly was cruising off Cape Sable, when she 
sighted two strange sail, and bore down on them, supposing them to be merchant- 
men ; but one was a British sloop-of-war, which opened a hot fire upon the incau- 
tious Polly, and a sharp chase ensued. A calm commenced, during which the frig- 
ate's boats and launch attacked the privateer, but were repulsed by heavy dis- 
charges of musketry and langrage. The Polly mnde her escape, and during the 
chase and action the convoy of the frigate had been captured by the privateer Mad- 
ison, and was sent into Salem. 

In the same vicinity (Aug. 1, 1812) the Rhode-Island privateer Yankee captured 
the British ship Royal Bnmty, 10 guns, after a battle of one hour's duration. The 



124 Route 25. BARRINGTON. 

privateer's broadsides were delivered with great precision, and 150 of her shot struck 
the enemy, while the fire of the Royal Bounty, though rapid and heavy, was nearly 
ineffective. The shattered Briton became unmanageable, and while in that condi- 
tion was raked from stem to stern by the Yankee's batteries. 

Cape Sable has long been dreaded by seamen, and has caught up and destroyed 
many vessels. It is one of the most dangerous prongs of that iron-bound Province 
for which Edmund Burke could find no better words than " that hard-visao-ed ill- 
favored brat " Probably the most destructive wreck on this shore was that of' the 
ocean steamship Hungarian. 

The steamer runs N. W . up the Barrington Passage to Earrington (Bar' 
rington House ; Willow Grove ; Rock Cottage ; Jsland Lodge — each $5-7 
a week), a thriving; maritime village, 43 M. from Yarmouth, whence it is 
reached b}"- steamboats thrice week!}', connecting with the Boston boats, or 
b}'' daily stage. (Boston to Barrington, $6 by steamer, or $7 b}' steamer 
and stage.) Ten to twelve miles north are the Sabinim and Great 
Pubnico Lakes. Barrington was settled at an early date by the French, 
but they w^ere crowded off in 1763 by the arrival of 160 families from Cape 
Cod, who brought hither their household effects oa their own vessels. 
After the Revolution, a colony of Loyalists from Nantucket settled here 
with their whilom neighbors. 

The course is now to the S. W., through a narrow and tide-swept pas- 
sage between Clement Point and N. E. Point, and thence out through the 
Barrington West Passage, passing the Baptist church near Clarke's Har- 
bor, and emerging on the open sea between Bear Point and Newell Head. 
(It is to be noted that, under certain adverse conditions of wind and tide, 
the steamer does not call at Barrington, but rounds Cape Sable on the 
outside.) On the 1. is Green Island, hiding Cape Sable, and the inlet of 
Shag Harbor is seen on the r. On Bon Portage Island (whose original 
French name w^as Bon Potage) is a new lighthouse, to warn vessels from 
the rugged shores on which the Viceroy was wrecked. The course soon 
changes toward the N. W., and Seal Island, "the elboAv of the Bay of 
Fundy," is seen on the 1., far out at sea, with the tower of its lighthouse 
(fixed white light, visible 18 M., and fog-whistle) looming above its low- 
shores On this island the ocean-steamship Columbia was lost. The 
Blonde Rock is 85 M. S. by W. from the lighthouse, and marks the point 
where H. B. M. frigate Blonde went to pieces, in 1782. Her crew was res- 
cued from the island and was given liberty by the American privateers 
Lively and Scammell, which were prowling aboat Cape Sable at the time 
of the wreck. 

When the Seal Island lighthouse is just abeam, on the other side is seen 
Cockerwhit and the Mutton islands; N. of Seal Island the Noddy, I\Iud, 
and Round Islands are seen, lying well out at sea. The earlj^ French 
maps (Chaubert's) gave these lonel}' i-slands the significant name of Les 
Isles aux Loups Marins. 

From Cape Sable " one goes to the Isle aux Cormorants, a league distant, so called 
on account of the infinite number there of those birds, with whose eggs we filled a 



TUSKET ISLANDS. Route 25. 125 

cask ; and from this bay making; W. about 6 leagues, crossing a bay which runs In 
2-3 leagues t.o the N., we meet several islands, 2-3 leagues out to sea, which may 
contain, some 2. otliers 3 leagues, and others less, according to my judgment. They 
are mostly verv dau'ierous for vessels to come close to, on account of the great tides 
and rocks level witlf the wau>r. These islands are filled with pine-trees, firs, birches, 
and aspens. A little further on are 4 others. In one there is so great a quantity of 
birds called taiii;ii-t(.v that they may be easily knocked down with a stick. In 
another there are seals. In two others there is such an abundance of birds of dif- 
ferent kinds that, without having seen them, could not be imagined, such as cor- 
morants, ducks of three kinds, geese, innrtrn tt.es, bustards, ptrroquels de mer, snipes, 
vultures, and other birds of prey, vianiies, sea-larks of two or three kinds, herons, 
goillants, curlews, sea-gulls, divers, kites, appoils, crows, cranes, and other sorts, 
which make their nests here." (Champlmn ) 

" Here are many islands extending into the sea, 4 5 M. distant from the main- 
land, and many rocks with breaking seas. Some of these islands, on account of the 
multitude of birds, are called Isles aux Tangueuz ; others are called Isles avx Loiips 
3Iarins (Seal Islands) " (Novus Orbis.) 

X. of St. John's Island (on the r.) is seen the deep inlet of Pnbnico Har- 
bor, on whose shores is the great fishing-village of Pubnico ( Garland'' s 
Hotel), with 2,500 inhabitants, of whom 136 families are Acadian-French, 
the greater portion belonging to the families of Amiro and D'Entremont. 
There are valuable eel-fisheries off this coast, and the Acadians own 65 
schooners in the Banks fisheries. 5 M. N. is Arr/yle, a settlement of 800 
inhabitants, near the island-strewn Abuptic Harbor. 

The steamer now crosses the mouth of Argyle Bay and the estuary of 
the Tusket River (see page 116), and enters the archipelago of the *Tiisket 
Islands. In favorable conditions of wind and tide she traverses the Ellen- 
icood Passage, passing the Bald Tuskets, Ellenwood, Allen, and Murder 
Islands, and a multitude of others. The islands are of great variety of size 
and shape, and are usually thickly covered with low and sturdy trees; 
and the channels between them are narrow and very deep. The frequent 
kaleidoscopic changes in the views on either side, and the fascinating 
commingling and contrast of forest, rock, and water, recall the scenery of 
the Thousand Islands or the Narrows of Lake George. But the Tuskets 
are not even embayed; they stand off one of the sharpest angles of the 
continent, and the deep lanes between them are traversed by the strongest 
tides of the ocean. 

Soon after passing the last Tusket the steamer runs in near the white 
village on Jebogue Point, and enters Yarmouth Sound. On the 1. is Cope 
Fourcku, with its fog-whistle and a lofty revolving light which is visible 
for 18 M. The narrow channel is ascended, with a plain of mud on either 
side, if the tide is out; and the vessel reaches the end of her journey at the 
whan'es of Yarmouth. 

Yarmouth, see page 114. 



126 Route 26. ST. MARGARET'S BAY. 



26. Halifax to Yarmouth, by the Shore Route. — Chester 

The easiest route to the chief ports on this coast is by the steamship liue (see 
Route 25); and the new AVestern-Counties Railway, from Yarmouth to Annapolis, 
will furnish a still more exijeditious line of travel. But many 

points on the Atlantic front of the Province are, and will be, accessible only by 
stages. This mode of travel is fully as arduous here as in other remote districts, and 
the accommodations for wayfarers are indifferent. 

Distances. — Halifax to St. Margaret's Bay, 21 M ; Hubbard's Cove (McLean's), 
32 : Chester, 45 ; Mahoue Bav, 65 (branch to Lunenburg in 7 M.) : Bridgewater, 74 ; 
Mill Village, 92; Liverpool, 102; Port Mouton, 112: Port Joli, 116; Sable River, 
127 ; Lockeport, 141 ; .Jordan River, 11-3 ; Shelburne, 141; Barrington, 164; Pub- 
nico, 175 ; Tusket, lOl ; Yai'mouth, 2U. Her Majesty's mail-stages leave Halifax 
daily, at 6.30 A.M. Returning, leave Bridgewater at 5 A. M. daily. Leave Bridge- 
water for Liverpool, Lrckeport and Shelburne, daily, at 8 p m. Shelburne for 
Bridge water, at noon. Stages from Liverpool to Milton and Port Medway ; from 
Mahone Bay to Lunenburg ; from head of St Margaret's Bay to French Village, 
Glen Margaret, and Peggy's Cove. Stages leave Yarmouth for Shelburne, etc., on 
arrival of evening train from Digbv. 

Fares. — Halifax to Chester, .$2 50; Mahone Bav, $3 50 (Lunenburg, SF4); 
Bridgewater, $4; Liverpool, «6 ; Shelburne, $8.50 ; Barrington, itflO; Yarmouth, 
$12. 

The stage rattles tip the hilly streets of Halifax at early mornino;, and 
traverses the wide commons N. of the Citadel, with formal lines of trees 
on either side. Beyond the ensuing line of suburban villas it descends to 
the level of tlie NorthM-est Arm (see page 100), along whose head it passes. 
The road then leads along the shores of the lakes whence Halifax draws 
its water-supply, and enters a dreary and thinly settled region. Dauphi- 
ney's Cove is at the head of * St. Margaret's Bay, one of the most beauti- 
ful bays on all this remarkable coast. It is 12 M. long by 6 M. wide, and 
is entered by a passage 2 M. wide ; and is supposed to have been named 
{Bale de Ste. Marguerite) by Charaplain, who visited it in May, 1603. 
There are sevei-al small maritime villages on its shores, and the dark blue 
waters, bounded by rugged hills, are deep enough for the passage of large 
ships. The stage runs S. W. along the shore for 11 M., sometimes rolling 
alongside of beaches of dazzling white sand, then by shingly and stony 
strands on which the embayed surf breaks lightly, and then by the huts 
of fishermen's hamlets, with their boats, nets, and kettles by the road- 
side. Hubbard's Cove has a small inn, where passengers get their midday 
meals. 

There was an ancient water-route from this point to the Basin of Minas. 2 M. 
from the Cove is Dauphiney\<< Lake, which is 4 M. long, whence a carry of Ih M. leads 
into the Povhook Lake, a river like expanse 8 M. long, and nowhere so much as 1 
M wide. A short outlet leads to the Blind Lake, which winds for 7 M. through the 
forests W. of the Ardoise Mt., and is drained liy the St. Croix River, emptying into 
the Avon at Windsor. 

7 M. S. W. of Hiibbard's Cove the stnge crosses the £ast JRiver, "a 
glorious runway for salmon, with splendid falls nnd cold brooks tumbling 
in^o it at intervals, at the mouth of which large trout can be caught two 
at a time, if the angler be skilful enough to land them when hooked." 
Frequent and beautiful views of Mahone Bay are now gained (on the 1.), 
as the stage sweeps around its head and descends to 



CHESTER. Route. 2G. 127 

Chester (L"reft Flcuse ; Miilgrnve; daily st;i.<;-p to ITnlifax, and semi- 
weekly steamer), finely situated on a hill overlooking Malione I'ay. lias 
900 inliabitantP, live churches, and very pleasant summer society. It was 
settled about the year 1760 bv 144 New-Englanders, who brought an outfit 
of cattle and farming-tools. In 1784 they were joined by a large number 
of Loyalist refugees, but these were from the American cities, and soou 
wearied of farming and returned out of exile. In the woods near the vil- 
lage is a thermal spring 8 ft. around, whence a soft alkaline water is dis- 
charged; and on the shores of Sabbatee Lake are found deposits of kaolin, 
or white pipe-clay. 

Mr. Hallock is an enthusiastic admirer of this town, and says : " Three pleasant 
seasons have I spent at Chester. I idolize its very name. Just below my window a 
lawn slopes down to a little bay with a jetty, where an occasional schooner lands 
some stores. There is a large tree, under which I have placed some seats ; and off 
the end of the pier the ladies can catch flounders, tomcods, and cunners, in any 
quantity. There are beautiful drives in the vicinity, and innumerable islands iu 
the bay, where one can bathe and picnic to hearfs-content. There are sailing-boats 
for lobster-spearing and deep-sea fishing, and row-boats too. From the top of a 
neighboring hill is a wonderful panorama of forest, stream, and cultivated shore, of 
bays and distant sea, filled with islands of every size and shape. And if one will go 
to Gold River he may perchance see, as 1 have done, caribou quietly feeding on the 
natural meadows along the upper stream. Beyond Beech Hill is a trackless forest, 
filled with moose, with which two old hunters hving near oft hold familiar inter- 
course." {The Fishing Tourist.) 

One of the plea.santest excursions in this district is to Deep Cove and 
Blandford, 14 M- from Chester, by a road which follows the shores of 
j\Iahone Bay. From Blandford the ascent of Mt. Aspotogon is easily ac- 
complished, and rewards the visitor by a superb marine* view, including 
the great archipelago of Mahone Bay, the deep, calm waters of St. Mar- 
garet's Bay on the E., the broken and picturesque shores towards Cape 
Sambro, and a wide sweep of the blue Atlantic. Visitors at Chester also 
drive down the Lunenburg and Lahave road, which affords pretty sea- 
views. 

A rugged road leads across the Province to Windsor, about 40 M. N., passing 
through an almost unbroken wilderness of hills, and following the course of the 
Avon Lakes and River. Semi weekly stages run from Chester to Keutville (see 

page 90). 

* Mahone Bay opens to the S , E. and W. from Chester, and may be 
explored by boats or yachts from that village. It is studded with beau- 
tiful islands, popularly supposed to be 365 in number, the largest of which 
are occupied by cosey little farms, wdiile the smaller ones are covered with 
bits of forest. The mainland shores are nearly all occupied by prosperous 
farms, which are under the care of the laborious Germans of the county. 
The fogs prevail in these waters to a far less extent than on the ©uter 
deep, and it is not infrequently that vessels round the point in a dense 
white mist and enter the sunshine on the Bay. Boats and boatmen may 
be obtained at the villages along the shore, and pleasant excursions may 
be made among the islands, in pursuit of fish. " The unrivalled beauty 



128 Route 26. MAHONE BAY. 

of Mahone Bay" has been the theme of praise from all who have visited 
this district. In June, 1813, the line-of-battle-ship La Hogue and the 
frigate Orpheus chased the American privateer Young Teazer in among 
these islands. Though completely overpowered, the Yankee vessel re- 
fused to surrender, and she was blown up by one of her officers. Tie 
whole crew, 94 in number, was destroj^ed in this catastrophe. 

Oak Island is celebrated as one of the places where it is alleged that Capt. 
Kidd's treasui-e is hidden. About 80 years ago 3 New-Englauders claimed to have 
found here evidences of a buried mystery, coinciding with a tradition to the same 
effect. Digging down, they passed regular layers of flag-stones and cut logs, and 
their successors penetrated the earth over 100 ft. farther, finding layers of timber, 
charcoal, putty, West-Indian gra^s, sawed planks, and other curious substances, 
together with a. quaintly carved stone. The pit became flooded with M-ater, and was 
pumped out steadily. Halifax and Truro merchants Invested in the enterprise, and 
great stone drains were discovered leading from the sea into the pit. After much 
money and labor was spent in the excavation, it was given up about 10 years ago, 
and the object of the great drains and concealed pit still remains a profound mys- 
tery. 

Big Tancook is the chief of the islands in this bay, and is about 2 M. long. It 
contains 500 inhabitants, who are engaged in farming and fishing. Between this 
point and Mt. Aspotogon is Little Tancook Island, with 60 inhabitants. These 
islands were devastated, in 1756, by the Indians, who killed several of the settlers. 

" This bay, the scenery of which, for picturesque grandeur, is not surpassed by 
any landscape in America, is about 10 M broad and 12 deep, and contains within it 
a multitude of beautiful wooded islands, which were i^robably never counted, but 
are said to exceed 200." 

Soon after the Yarmouth stage leaves Chester " we come to Chester 
Basin, island-gemmed and indented with many a little cove; and far out 
to f'Ca, looming up in solitarj- grandeur, is Aspotogon, a mountain head- 
land said to be the highest land in Nova Scotia ( V ). The road follows the 
shore for many a mile, and then turns abruptly up the beautiful valley of 
Gold River, the finest of all the salmon streams of this grand locality. In 
it there are eleven glorious pools, all within 2 M. of each other, and others 
for several miles above at longer intervals." 

Mahone Bay (Victoria Hotel) is a village of 800 inhabitants, situated on 
a pretty cove about 17 M. from Chester. It has 4 chiirches, and its inhab- 
itants are mostly engaged in fishing and the lumber-trade. In the vicinity 
ure several other populous German settlements, and 7 M. S. is Lunenburg 
[see page 118). This point was known to the Indians by the name of 
Mushamush. and was fortified by the British in 1754. 

The stage now traverses a dreary inland region, inhabited by Germans. 
and soon reaches Bridgewater {Fairvieio Hotel), a village on the Lahave 
River, 13 M. from the sea. It has 1,000 inhabitants and 4 churclies, and 
is largely engaged in the lumber-trade, exporting staves to the United 
States and the West Indies. The scenery of the Lahave River is at- 
tractive and picturesque, but the saw-mills on its upper waters have 
proved fatal to the fish (see page 119). The road now traverses a dismal 
region for 18 M., when it reaches Jlill Village (small hotel), on the Port 
Medway River. This place has several large saw-mills and a match- 



LIVERPOOL LAKES. Route 27. 129 

fiictorr, and its population numbers about 400. It is near tlie Doran and 
Herringcove Lakes, and is 6 M. from tlie Third Falls of the Lahave. 9 M. 
S. W. is Liverpool (see pajie 120). 

From Liverpool to Yarmouth the road runs along the heads of the bays 
and across the intervening str'ps of land. The chief stations and their 
distances are given in the itinerary on page 126; the descriptions of the 
towns may be found in Route 25. 

27. The Liverpool Lakes. 

This system of inland waters is most easily reached from Halifax or St. John 
bv passing to Annapolis Royal and there taking the stage which leaves at 6 a. m. 
daily. 

liistances. — Annapolis; Milford,14 M. ; Maitland, 27 : Northfield,30 ; Kempt, 
35; Brookfleld, 41; Caledonia Corner; Greenfield (Ponhook), 50; Middlefield, 56; 
Liverpool, 70. 

Soon after leaving Annapolis the stage enters the valley of Allen's River, 
which is followed toward the long low range of the South Mt. At Milford 
(small inn) the upper reservoirs of the Liverpool River are met, and from 
this point it is possible to descend in canoes or flat-bottomed boats to the 
town of Liverpool, 60 M. distant. If a competent guide can be secured 
at Milford this trip can be made with safety, and will open up rare fishing- 
grounds. The lakes are nearly all bordered by low and rocky shores, with 
hill-ranges in the distance; and flow through regions which are as yet but 
little vexed by the works of man. The trout in these waters are abundant 
and not too coy; though better fishmg is found in proportion to the dis- 
tance to which the southern forest is entered. Mr. McClelland has been 
the best guide from Milford, but it is uncertain whether he will be avail- 
able this summer. 

Queen's and Lunenburg Counties form " the lake region of Nova Scotia. 
All that it lacks is the grand old mountains to make it physically as at- 
tractive as the Adii'ondacks, while as for game and fish it is in ever}'- way 
infinitely superior. Its rivers are short, but they flow with full volume 
to the sea, and yield abundantly of salmon, trout, and sea-trout. Its lakes 
swarm with trout, and into man}^ of them the salmon ascend to spawn, 
and are dipped and speared by the Indians in large numbers." (Hal- 
lock.) 

" In the hollows of the highlands are likewise embosomed lakes of every variety 
of form, and often quite isolated. Deep and intensely blue, their shores fringed 
with rock Vjowlders, and generally containing several islands, they do much to di- 
versify the monotony of the forest by their frequency and picturesque scenery." 
(Capt. Hardy.) 

The Liverpool road is rugged, and leads through a region of almost un- 
broken forests. Beyond Milford it runs S. E. down the valleys of the 
Boot Lake and Fisher's Lake, with dark forests and ragged clearings on 
either side. Maitland is a settlement of about 400 inhabitants, and a few 
miles beyond is Northfield, whence a forest-road leads S. W. 6 M. to the 
6* I 



130 Route 27. LIVERPOOL LAKES. 

shore of Fairy Lake, or the Frozen Ocean, a beautiful island-strewn sheet 
of water 4 M. long. J. M. Monro, of Maitland. is a good guide. 

The road now enters BrooTcfield, the centre of the new farming settle- 
ments of the North District of Queen's Count}'. Several roads diverge 
hence, and in the vicinity the lakes and tributaries of the Liverpool and 
Port Medway Rivers are curiously interlaced 5-6 ]\L S. E. is the Malaga 
Lake, which is 5 M. long and has several pretty islands The road passes 
on to Greenfield^ a busy lumbering-village at the outlet of Port Medway 
Great Lake. This long-di-awn-out sheet of water is also skirted by the 
other road, which runs S. from Brookfield through Caledonia Corner 
(small inn). The Ponhook Road is S. W. of Greenfield and runs down 
through the forest to the outlet of Ponhook Lake, ' the headquarters of 
the Micmacs and of all the salmon of the Liverpool River " This Indian 
village is the place to get guides who are tireless and are familiar with 
every rod of the lake-district From this point a canoe voyage of about 
8 M. across the Ponhook Lakes leads the voyager into the great * Lake 
Rossignol, which is 12 M. long by 8 M. wide, and affords one of the most 
picturesque sights in Nova Scotia. 

" A glorious view was unfolded as we left the run and entered the still water of 
the lake. The breeze fell rapidly with the sun and enabled us to steer towards the 
centre, from which alone the size of the lake could be appreciated, owing to the 
number of the islands. These were of every imaginable shape and size, — from the 
grizzly rock bearing a solitary stunted pine, shaggy with Usnea, to those of a mile 

in length, thickly wooded with maple, beech, and birches Here and there a 

bright spot of white sand formed a beach tempting for a disembarkation ; and fre- 
quent sylvan scenes of an almost fairy -land character opened up as we coasted along 
the shores, — little harbors almost closed in from the lake, overgrown with water- 
lihes, arrow-heads, and other aquatic plants, with mossy banks backed by bosky 
groves of hemlocks.'' (Capt. Hardy.) 

At the foot of Lake Rossignol is a wide oak -opening, with a fine greensward under 
groves of white oaks Near this point the Liverpool River flows out, passing several 
islets, and affording good trout-fishiiig. In and about this oak-opening was the 
chief village of the ancient Micmacs of this region ; and here are their nearly oblit- 
erated burying-grounds. The site is now a favorite resort for hunting and fishing 
parties. The name Pnnliook means *' the first lake in a chain " ; and these shores 
are one of the few districts of the vast domains of Miggumdhghee, or " iMicmac 
Land," that remain in the possession of the aborigines. From Ponhook 12 lakes 
may be entered by canoes without making a single portage. 

From Lake Rossignol the sportsman may visit the long chain of the 
Segum-Sega Lakes, entered from a stream on the N. W. shore (several 
portages), and may thence ascend to the region of the Blue Mts. and into 
Shelburne County. The Indian Gardens may also be visited thence, af- 
fording many attractions for riflemen. The Micmacs of Ponhook are the 
best guides to the remoter parts of the forest. There are several gentle- 
men in the town of Liverpool who have traversed these pleasant .solitudes, 
and they will aid fellow-sportsmen loyally. The Indian village is only 
about 15 M. from Liverpool, by a road on the 1. bank of the river. 

Liverpool, see page 120. The Nova-Scotia Central Railway leads from 
Middleton to the vicinity of the lakes, and across to Bridgewater and Lu- 
nenburg. There are steamers on Malaga and Ponhook Lakes. 



CHEZZETCOOK. Route 28. 131 



28. Halifax to Tangier. 

The Royal mail-stage leaves Halifax at 6 a. M. on INlonday, Wednesday, and Fri- 
day (returning the altei'naui days , lor the villages along tiie Atlantic shore to the 
E. The conveyance is not good, and the roads are sometimes in had condition, hut 
there is pretty coast-scenery along the route. 

Distaiu-es. — Halifax ; Dartmouth: Porter's Lake (Innis's), 16 M : Chezzet- 
cook Road (Ormon's), 18; Musquodoboit Harbor, 28; Lakeville (Webber's), 40; 
Ship Harbor, 46 ; Tangier. 60 ; Sheet Harbor, 80 ; Beaver Harbor, 90. 

After leaving Dartmouth, the stage runs E. through a lake-strewn coun- 
try, and passes near the gold-mines of Montague. Beyond the Little 
Salmon River it traverses Preston, with the gold-bearing district of 
Lawrencetown on the S. The mines and placer-washings at this point 
drew large and enthusiastic crowds of adventurers in 1861-62, but they 
are now nearly abandoned. The road rounds the N. end of Echo Lake 
and ascends a ridge beyond, after which it crosses the long and river-like 
expanse of Porter's Lake, and runs through the post-village of the same 
name. 3-4 M. to the S. E. is Chezzetcook Harbor, with its long shores 
lined with settlements of tlie Acadian French, whereof Cozzens writes: — 

" But we are again in the Acadian forest; let us enjoy the scenery. The road we 
are on is but a few miles from the sea-shore, but the ocean is hidden from view by 
the thick woods. As we ride along, however, we skirt the edges of coves and inlets 
that frequently break in upon the landscape. There is a chain of fresh-water lakea 
also along this road. Sometimes we cross a bridge over a rushing torrent ; some- 
times a calm expanse of water, doubling the evergreens at its margin, comes into 
view ; anon a gleam of sapphire strikes through the verdure, and an ocean-bay with 
its shingly beach curves in and out between the piny slopes." 

Here " the water of the harbor has an intensity of color rarely seen, except in 
the pictures of the most ultramarine painters. Here and there a green island or a 
fishing-boat rested upon the surface of the tranquil blue. For miles and miles the 
eye followed indented grassy slopes that rolled away on either side of t'.ie harbor, 
and the most delicate pencil could scarcely portray the exquisite line of creamy sand 
that skirted their edges and melted off in the clear margin of the water. Ofcasional 
little cottages nestle among these green banks, — not the Acadian houses of the 
poem, 'with thatched roofs and dormer-windows projecting,' but comfortable, 
homely-looking buildings of modern shapes, shingled and un-weathercocked. .... 
The women of Chezzetcook appear at daylight in the city of Halifax, and as soon as 
the sun is up vanish like the dew They have usually a basket of fresh eggs, a brace 
or two of worsted socks, a bottle of fir balsam, to sell. These comprise their simple 
commerce " 

Chezzetcook was founded by the French in 1740, but was abandoned during the 
long subsequent wars. After the British conquest and pacification of Acadia, many 
of the old families returned to their former homes, and Chezzetcook was re-occupied 
by its early settlers. They formed an agricultural .community, and grew rapidly 
in 23ropperity ami in numbers. There are about 250 families now resident about the 
bay, preserving the names and language and many of the primitive customs of the 
Acadians of the Basin of ilinas. (See pages 108 and 113. ) 

The road passes near the head of Chezzetcook Harbor, on the r., and 
then turns N. E. between the blue waters of Chezzetcook Great Lake ( 1.) 
and Pepiswick Lake (r.). The deep inlet of Musquodoboit Harbor is soon 
reached, and its head is crossed. This is tl.e harbor where Capt. Hardy 
made his pen-picture of this romantic coast: — 

" Nothing can exceed the beauty of scenery in some of the Atlantic harbors of 
Nova Scotia, — their innumerable islands and heavily-wooded shores fiinged with 



132 Route 28. TANGIER. 

the golden kelp, the wild undulating hills of maple rising in the background, the 
patches of meadow, and neat little white shanties of the fishermen's clearings, .... 
the fir woods of the western shores bathed in the morning sunbeams, the perfect 
reiiection of the islands and of the little fishing-schooners, the wi'eaths of blue 
smoke rising from their cabin stoves, and the roar of the distant rapids, where the 
river joins the harbor, borne in cadence on the ear, mingled with the cheerful 
sounds of awakening life from the clearings." 

Near Musqiiodoboit are st me valuable gold-mines, with two powerfm 
quartz-crushing mills, ajid several moderately rich lodes of auriferous 
quartz. The stage soon reaches the W. arm of J tddore Harboi^ and then 
crosses the Le Marchant Bridge. The district of Jeddore has 1,623 in- 
habitants, most of whom are engaged in the fisheries or the coasting trade, 
alternating these employments with lumbering and shipbuilding. A long 
tract of wilderness is now traversed, and SMjj Hm-hor is reached. A few 
miles N. W. is the broad expanse of Ship Harbor Lake, reaching nearly 
to the Boar's Back Ridge, and having a length of 12-14 M. and a width 
of 2-4 M. To the N. are the hills whence falls the Tangier River, to 
which the Indians gave the onomatopoetic name of AhmagopaJcegeek, 
which signifies " tumbling over the rocks." The post-road now enters 
the once famous gold-bearing district of Tangier. 

These mines were opened in 1860, and speedily became widely renowned, attract- 
ing thousands of adventurers from all parts of the Atlantic coast. For miles the 
ground was honeycon.bed with pits and shafts, and the excited men worked with- 
out intermission. But the gold was not found in masses, and only patience and 
hard work could extract a limited quantity from the quartz, so the crowd became 
discontented and went to the new fields. Lucrative shore-wafhings were engaged in 
for some time, and a stray ni^gget of Tangier gold weighing 27 ounces was shown in 
the Dublin Exposition. This district covers about 80 square miles, and has 12 lodes 
of auriferous quartz. The South Lode is the most valuable, and appears to grow 
richer as it descends. The mines are now being worked by two small companies, 
and their average yield is $ 400 - 500 per miner each year. 

Beyond Tangier and Pope's Bay the post-road passes the head oi Spry 
Bay, and then the head of Mushaboon Harbor, and reaches Sheet Harbor 
(Farnal's Hotel). This is a small shipbuilding village, at the head of the 
long harbor of the same name, and is at the outlets of the Middle and 
North Rivers, famous for their fine salmon fisheries. 

Slierbrooke, see page 133. 

Considerable interest attaches to Sherbrooke in the eyes of the sportsman as being 
in the ccDtre and head(iia;trters of one of the finest ;iugling-districts in Aiieiica. 
Tlie Stilkvattr of !St. Mary''s lllver, 3 M. from Slierbrooke, fiom mid-Ma\ to mid- 
July, is the yearly resort of numbers of military and private gentlemen from ILilifax, 
who indulge in the noble sport of angling for salmon. Fish weighing oS lbs. have 
been frequently taken with the tiy. Angling for trout begins July 30, and con- 
tinues till Nov. 1 W. of St. Mary's River, and within 8 M., are the Gegog.uin and 
Giispereaux Brooks, both celebrated for their trout ; at the latter stream sea- trout 
of 6 lbs. weight have been taken. K. of St. Mary's River are the Indian Lakes, 
and Indian Ri\er, —the latter being difficult of access, bui probably the best fish- 
ing-stream in eastern Nova Scotia. It is *J M. from Slierbrooke. 

The name St. Mari/'f was nivcn to this District by the French. At Sherbrooke, 
when first settled by 'tlie English Loyalists, there were found the remains of a stouo 
fort, built to command the approach to the settlement by the river. 

Stages leave Sheet Harbor ;it A. M., Tuesday. Thursday, and Saturday (return- 
ing alternate days) for Salmon River, 18 M ; Marie Joseph, 33 ; Lisconib, 50; and 
Sherbrooke, 61. 



GUYSBOROUGIT. Route 29. 133 



29, The Northeast Coast of Nova Scotia. 

This district is roaclied by passiut; on tlie Intercolonial Kailway (see lloutes 16 
auU 17) Jruui St. Joiin ur Ualitux to New Glasgow, and tlieiice taking tlie 
Kailway to Autigouish (.see Route Z'l). 

From Antigonisli a daily stage departs after the arrival of trains ,<,m- 
ing E., ruiiiiiiig oS M. S. (fare, *-2.50) to Sherbrooke (Shcibrct^kc 
Huid; Ciiltdunia JJulil, — both with liver^'-stables — see also pag-e 132), 
a village on the 1. bank of the St. Mary's Elver, the largest river in Nova 
Scotia, and at the head of navigation on that stream. It is engaged in 
shipbuilding and in the exportation of deals and lumber. The town de- 
rives considerable interest from the fact that in the vicinity is one of the 
broadest and most prolific gold-fields in the Province. Goldenville is 3 M. 
from Sherbrooke, by a road which crosses the St. Mary's on a long bridge. 
Tliis district covers 18 square miles, and is the richest in the Province, 
having yielded as high as $2,000 per man per year, or abotit three times 
the average production of the best of the Australian mines. The aurifer- 
ous lodes are operated at Goldenville only, where there are several quartz- 
crushers on a large scale. These mines were discovered in 1861, and on 
the first day over $500 worth of gold was found here. Systematic mining 
operations were soon commenced, and the yield of the precious metal has 
since been very satisfactory. 

The Wine-Harbor Gold-Jield is several miles S. E. of Sherbrooke, near the mouth 
of the St. Mary's River. The average yield per ton is small, 3'et the breadth and 
continuity of the lodes renders the work easy and certain. This district is seamed 
w ith abandoned shafts and tunnels, one of which is 700 ft. long. The first discovery 
of gold was made in 1860 in the sands of the sea-shore, and the quartz lodes on the 
N. E. side of the harbor were soon opened Of later years the Wine- Harbor district 
has greatly declined in popularity and productiveness. 

The S'.orynont Gold-Jields are 36 M. N. E. of Sherbrooke, and are most easily 
reached by dii-ect conveyance from Antignnish. Gold was discovered here by the 
Indians in 1861, and occurs in thick layers of quartz. Owing to its remoteness, 
this region has remained undeveloped, and its total yield in 1869 was but 227 ounces 
(s 4,510). The chief village in the district is at the head oi Country Harbor^ a pic- 
turt^sque arm of the sea, 8 M. long and 2-3 M. wide. There are fine opportunities 
for shooting and fishing among the adjacent bays and highlands. All this shore 
was settled in 1783 - 4 by Loyalists from North and South Carolina. 

Guyshorough and Cape Ccmso. 

Guysboroug-h (Grant's Hotel) is reached by daily mail-stages from 
Heatherton, on the Halifax & Cape Breton Railway. After leaving the 
valley of the South River, the road passes through a rough and hilly region, 
nnd descends through the Intervale Settlement and Manchester to Guys- 
borough, a marine village at the head of Chedabucto Bay. It has about 
1,700 inhabitants, with a prosperous academy, and is the capital of Guys- 
borough County (named in honor of Sir Guy Carleton). It is engaged in 
shipbuilding and the fisheries, and has a good and spacious harbor. The 
noble anchorage of Milford Haven lies between the town and the b^v. 



134 Route 30. SABLE ISLAND. 

A strong post was established at Chedabucto, on the site of Guysborough in 1636, 
by M. Denys, who had spacious warehouses and a sti-ong fort here, together with 
120 men. Here he received and supported the exiled children of D"Aulnay Char- 
nisay ; and here also he was vainly besieged for several days by La Giraudiere and 
100 men from Canso In 1690 the works were held by De Montorgueuil, and were 
bravely defended against the attacks of the New-England army under i^ir William 
Phipps. Finally, when the buildings of the fort were all in flames about him, the 
gallant Frenchman surrendered, and was sent to Placentia with his soldiers. The 
ruins of the ancient fort are now to be traced near the mouth of the harbor. 

A bold ridge runs 31 M. E. from Guysborough nlong the S. shore of Ched- 
abucto Bajr to Cape Canso, the most easterly point of Nova Scotia. A 
road follows the course of the bay to the fishing-village of Cape Canso, 
which has over 1,000 inhabitants and enjoys a profitable little export 
trade. Several islands lie otf this extreme point of Nova Scotia, one of 
which bears two powerful white lights and a fog-whistle. Canso Harbor 
is mai-ked by a fixed red light which is visible for 12 M. 

White Haven is on the S. side of the great peninsula of Wilmot, 30 M. from 
Guysborough, and is a small fishing settlement situated on one of the finest bays on 
the American coast. It was originally intended to have the Intercolonial Railway 
terminate here, and connect with the transatlantic steamships. The harbor is easy 
of access, of capacious breadth, and free from ice in winter. Its E. point is White 
Head, usually the first land seen by vessels crossing from Europe in this upper lati- 
tude, on which is a fixed white light. Just W. of White Haven is the fishermen's 
hamlet of Molasses Harbor, near the broad bight of Tor Bay. 

30. Sable Island. 

The Editor inserts the following sketch of this remotest outpost of the Maritime 
Provinces, hoping that its quaint character may make amends for its uselessuess to 
the summer tourist. It may also be of service to voyagers on these coasts who should 
chance to be cast away on the island, since no one likes to be landed suddenly in a 
strange country without having some previous knowledge of the reception he may 
get. 

A regular line of communication has recently been established between Sable 
Island and Halifax. The boats run once a year, and are chartered by the Canadian 
government to carry provisions and stores to the lighthouse people and patrols, 
and to bring back the persons who may have been wrecked there during the pre- 
vious year. 

Sable Island is about 90 M. S. E. of Cape Canso. It is a barren ex- 
panse of sand, without trees or thickets, and is constantly swept by storms, 
tinder whose powerful pressure the whole aspect of the land changes, by 
the shifting of the low dunes. The only products of this arid shore are 
cranberries, immense quantities of which are found on the lowlands. 

" Should any one be visiting the island now, he might see, about 10 M. distance, 
looking seaward, half a dozen low dark hummocks on the horizon. As he ap- 
proaches, they gradually resolve themselves into hills fringed by breakers, and by 
and by the white sea-beach with its continued surf, — the sand-hills, part naked, 
part waving in grass of the deepest green, unfold themselves, — a house and a barn 
dot the western extremity, — here and there along the wild beach lie the ribs of un- 
lucky traders half buried in the shifting sand Nearly the first thing the vis- 
itor does is to mount the flag-staff, and, climbing into the crow's-nest, scan the scene. 
The ocean bounds him everywhere. Spread east and west, he views the narrow 
island in form of a bow, as if the great Atlantic wavo.s had bent it around, nowhere 
much above 1 M. wide, 26 M. long, including the dry bars, and holding a shallow 
lake 13 M. long in its centre. There it all lies spread like a map at his feet, — grassy 



SABLE ISLAND. Route 30. 135 

hill and sandy valley fiidiug away into the distance. On the foreground the outpost 
men galloping their rougli ponies into headquarters, recalled by tlio flag flying over 
his head; the West-end house of retuge, with bread and niuteUes, tirewood and 
kettle, and directions to find water, and headquarters witli flag-stidf on the adjoin- 
ing hill. Every sandy peak or grassy knoll with a dead man-s name or old ship's 
tradition, — Bakers Hill, Trotts Cove, Scotchman's Head, French Gardens, — tra- 
ditionary spot where tlie poor convicts expiated their social crimes, — the little 
burial-ground nestling ia tiie long grass of a high hill, and consecrated to tlie re- 
pose of many a sea-tossed liuib ; and 2-3 M. down the shallow lake, the South-side 
house and barn, and staff and bo.its lying on the lake beside the door. 9 M. farther 
down, by the aid of a glass, he may view the flag-staff at the foot of the hike, and 5 
M. farther the East-end lookout, with its staff and watch-house. Herds of wild 
ponies dot the hills, and black-duck and sheldrakes are heading their young broods 
on the mirror-like ponds. Seals innumerable are basking on the warm sands, or 
piled like ledges of rock along the shores. The Glasgow's bow, tlie Maskonemet's 
stern, the East Boston's hulk, and the grinning ribs of the well-fastened Guide, are 
spotting the sands, each with its tale of last adventure, hardships passed, and toil 
endured. The whole picture is set in a silver-frosted frame of rolling surf and sea- 
ribbed sand '• 

"Mounted upon his hardy pony, the solitary patrol starts upon his lonely way. 
He rides up the centre valleys, ever and anon'mounting a grassy hill to look sea- 
NS'ard, reaches the West-end bar, speculates upon perchance a broken spar, an empty 
bottle, or a cask of beef struggling in the land-wash, — now fords the shallow lake, 
looking well for his land-range, to escape the hole where Baker was drowned ; and 
coming on the breeding-ground of the countless bii'ds, his pony's hoof with a reck- 
less smash goes crunching through a dozen eggs or callow young. He faii'ly puts 
his pony to her mettle to escape the cloud of angry birds which, arising in countless 
numbers, dent his weather-beaten tarpaulin with their sharp bills, and snap his 
pony's ears, and confuse him with their sharp, shrill cries. Ten minutes more, and 
he is holding hard to count the seals. There they lay, old ocean's flocks, resting 
their wave-tossed Umbs, — great ocean bulls, and cows, and calves." (Dr. J. B. 
GiLPIX. ) 

For over a century Sable Island has been famous for its wild horses. They num- 
ber perhaps 400, and are divided into g-ings which are under the leadership of the 
old males. They resemble the Mexican or Ukraine wild horses, in their large heads, 
shaggy necks, sloping quarters, paddling gait, and chestnut or piebald colors Once 
a j'ear the droves are all herded by daring horsemen into a large pound, where 20 or 30 
of the best are taken out to be sent to Nova Scotia. After the horses chosen for ex- 
portation are lassoed and secured, the remainder are turned loose again. 

Since Sable Island was first sighted by Cabot, in 1497, it has been an object of 
terror to mariners. Several vessels of D'Anville's French Armada were lost here ; 
and among the many wrecks in later days, the chief have been those of the ocean 
steamship Georgia and the French frigxte U Africainc.. 

In the year 1-583, when Sir Humphrey Gilbert wa^ returning from Newfoundland 
(of which he had taken possession in the name of the English Crown), his little fleet 
became entaiigled among the shoals about Sable Island. On one of these outlying 
bars the ship Delight struck heavily and dashed her stern and quarters to pieces. 
The oSficers and over 103 men were lost, and 14 of the crew, after drifting about in a 
pinnace for many days, were finally rescued The other vessels, the Squirrel and the 
GolrJen Hind, bore off to sea and set their course for England. But when off tue 
Azores the Squirrel was .sorely tossed by a tempest (being of only 10 tons' burden), 
and upon her deck was seen Sir Humphrey Gilbert reading a book. As she swept 
past the Golden Hind, the brave knight cried out to the captain of the latter : 
" Courage, my lads, we are as near heaven by sea as by land." About midnight the 
Squirrel plunged heavily forward into the trough of the sea, and went dawn with 
all on board. Thus perished this " resolute soldier of .Jesus Christ, .... one of the 
noblest and best of men in an age of great men" 

In 1508 a futiie attempt at colonizing Sable Island was made by *' Le Sieur Baron 
de Leri et de St. Just, Vie mte de Gueu." But he left some live-stock here that 
afterwards saved many lives. 

In the year 1598 the Marquis de la Roche was sent by Henri IV. to America, car- 
rying 200 convicts from the French prisons. He determined to found a settlement 



136 Route 31. NEW GLASGOW. 

on Sable Island, and left 40 of his men there to commence the work. Soon after, 
De la Roche was forced by stress of storm to return to France, abandoning these 
unfortunate colonists. Without food, clothing, or wood, they suffered intensely, 
until partial relief was brought by the wrecking of a French ship on the island. For 
seven years they dwelt in huts built of wrecked timber, dressed in seal-skins, and 
living on fish. Ttien King Henii IV. sent out a ship under Chedotel, and the 12 
survivors, gaunt, squalid, and long-bearded, were carried back toFrance, where they 
were pardoned and rewarded. 

An attempt was made about the middle of the 16th century to colonize Cape Bre- 
ton in the interests of Spain, but the fleet that was transporting the Spaniards and 
their property was dashed to pieces on Sable Island. 

31. St. John and Halifax to Pictou. 

By the Pictou Branch Railway, which diverges from the Intercolonial Railway at 
Truro. Aiso, by Oxford & Pictou Short Line. 

[Stations. — 5*^ John to Pictou. St. John to Truro, 214 M ; Vahey, 219; 
Union, *:24 ; Riversdale, 228; AVest River, 236; Glengarry, 243; Hopewell, 250; 
Stellarton, 2.55 ; Westville, 258 ; Sylvester, 263; Lnchbroom . 266 ; Pictou. 269. 

Stations. — i^aZi'/aa- «o Pirtou. Halifax to Truro. 62 M. : Vallev,66; Union, 
71; Riversdnle, 74; West River, 82: Glengarry, 90 : Hopewell, 97 ; Stellarton, 1'., 2; 
Westville, 104; Sylvester, 110; Lochbroom, 112; Pictou, 115. 

St. John to Truro, see Routes 16 and 17. 

Halifax to Truro, see Route 17 (reversed). 

The train runs E. from Truro, and soon after leaving the environs, enters 
a comparatively broken and uninteresting region. On the 1. are the roll- 
ing foot-hills of the Cobequid Range, and the valley of the Salmon River 
is followed by several insignificant forest stations. Eivtrsdale is surrounded 
by a pleasant diversity of hill-scenery, and has a spool-factory and a con- 
siderable lumber trade. 14 M. to the N. is the thrivhig Scottish settlement 
of Earltown. Beyond West River the train reaches Glengarry., which is 
the station for the Scottish villages of New Lairg and Gairloch. Hoptwdl 
(Hopewell Hotel) has small woollen and spool factories; and a short dis- 
tance beyond the line approaches the banks of the East River. 

Stellarton is the station for the great Albion Mines, which are con- 
trolled (for the most part) by the General Mining Association, of London. 
There is a populous village here, most of whose inhabitants are connected 
with the mines. The coal-seams extend over several miles of area, and 
are of remarkable thickness. They are being worked in several pits, and 
would doubtless return a great revenue in case of the removal of the re- 
strictive trade regulations of the United States. In the year 1864 over 
200,000 tons of coal were raised from these mines. 

New Glasgow {Vendome Hotel) has 4,000 inhabitants, largely engaged 
iu shipbuilding and having other manufactures, including iuundnes 
and tanneries, steel and glass works. It is favorably situated on the East 
River, and has large coal-mines in the vicinity. Here are the main offices 
e,nd W. terminus of the railway, running 75 M. E. to the Strait of Cause. 



PICTOU. Route 31. 137 

Pictou {Niic Revere House; Central Flouse) h a floiirisliiiif: town on 
the Giilf shore, with 3,000 inhabitants, six churches, a masonic hall, two 
vreeUly paper.^^, the public buildings of Piciou County, three banks, 
n handsome Y. M. C. A. buiMiny:, and the Pictou Academy, founded on 
the plan of a Scottish University in 1818, and now occupying a large and 
handsome new building, with museum, library, convocation hall, etc. 
The harbor is the finest on the S. shore of the Gull and can accommodate 
ships of any burden, having a depth of 5-7 fathoms. The town occupies 
a commanding position on a hillside over a small cove on the N. side of 
the harbor: and nearly opposite, the basin is divided into three arms, into 
which flow the East, Middle, and West Rivers, on which are the shii>- 
ping wharves of the Albion, Intercolonial, Acadia, and Vale Coal Com- 
panies, whence immense quantities of coal are exported. There is very 
pleasant scenery in the vicinity of Pictou, and good sea-bathing on the 
adjacent beaches. 

Pictou has a large coasting trade : is engaged in shipbuilding; and has 
a marine-railway. It has also tobacco-factories, carding-mills, several 
saw and grist mills, a foundry, and three or four tanneries. But the chief 
business is connected with the adjacent mines and the exportation of coal, 
and with the large freestone quarries in the vicinity. 

Stages leave Pictou several times ■weekly, for River John, Tatamagouche, Wallace, 
Pugwash, and Amherst (?ee page SI). Steamships leave (opposite) Pictou forChar- 
lottetown, on Monday, Wednesday, Fridav, and Saturday, on the arrival of the Tlal- 
if-ix train (see Route 44) : also for the Gulf ports and Quebec, alternate Monday 
evenings (s^^e Route 66) ; al<o for the Magdalen It-lands (see Koute 49) ; and lor 
Souris and Georgetown, P. E. I. 

After the divine Glooscap (see page 106) had left Newfoundland, where he conferred 
upon the loons the power of weirdly crying when they needed his aid, he landed at 
Pictou (from Piktook, an Indian word meaning " Bubbling," or •' Gas-exploding," 
and referred to the ebullitioas of the water near the great coal-beds). Here he 
created the tortoise tribe, in this wise : Great festivals and games were made in his 
honor by the Indians of Pictook, but he chose to dwell with a homely, lazy, and 
despised old bachelor named Mikchickh, whom, after clothing in his own robe and 
giving him victory in the games, he initiated as the progenitor and king of all the 
tortoises, smoking him till his coat became brown and as hard as bone, and then re- 
ducing his size by a rude surgical operation. 

The site of Pictou was occupied in ancient times by a populous Indian village, 
and in 1763 the French made futile preparations to found a colony here In 1765, 
200,000 acres of land in t^iis vicinity were granted to a company in Philadelphia, 
w'lcnce bands of settlers came ii 17-37 - 71 Meantime the site of the town had been 
given to an army officer, who in turn sold it for a horse and saddle The Pennsyl- 
vanians were disheartened at the severity of the climate and the infertility of the 
soil, and no progress wis mvde in the new colony until 1773, when the ship Hector 
arrived with 180 persons from the Scottish Highlands. They were brought over by 
the Philadelphia companv, but when they found that the shore lands were all 
taken , the}' refused to settle on the company's territory, and hence the agent cut 
off their supply of provisions. They subsisted on fish and venison, with a little 
flour from Truro, until the next spring, when they sent a ship-load of pine-timber 
to Britain, and planted wheat and potatoes. Soon afterwards they were joined by 
15 destitute famihes from Dumfriesshire ; and at the close of the Revolutionary War 
many disbanded soldiers settled here with their families. In 1786 the Rev. James 
McGregor came to Pictou and ma-e a home, and as he was a powerful preacher in 



138 Route 32. ANTIGONISH. 

the Gaelic language, many Highlanders from the other parts of the Province moved 
here, and new immigrations arrived from Scotland. In 1788 the town was com- 
menced on its present site by Deacon Patterson, and in 1792 it M'as made a shix'e- 
town. Great quantities of lumber were exported to Britain between 1805 and 1820, 
during the period of European convulsion, when the Baltic ports were closed, and 
while the British navy was the main hope of the nation. The place was captured in 
1777 by an American privateer. Coal was discovered here in 1798, but the exporta- 
tion was small until 1827, when the General Mining Association of London began 
operations. 

J. W. Dawson, LL. D , F. R. S., was born at Pictou in 1820, and graduated at the 
University of Edinburgh in 1840. He studied and travelled with Sir Charles Lyell, 
and has become one of the leaders among the Christian scientists. His greatest work 
was the " Acadian Geology." For the past 20 years he has been Principal of the 
McGill College, at Montreal. 

32. St. John and Halifax to the Strait of Canso and Cape 
Breton. 



This comparatively new route leaves the Intercolonial R.ilway (Pictou Branch) 
at New Glasgow (see page 136), 104 M. from Halifax, and 258 M from St. John, and 
runs down to the Strait of Canso, where it connects with a steam ferrj'-boat to Cape 
Breton, and with steamboats to various ports on the island. A trip eastward by this 
route, and a voyage on the Bras d'Or, gives a deeply interesting excursion. 

Stations. — New Glasgow to Glenfalloch, h\ M. ; Merigomish, 9| ; French 
River, 13i ; Piedmont, 18 ; Avondale, 22 ; Barney's River, 23^^- ; Marshy Hope, 26; 
James River, 30 .V ; Brierly Brook, 34^; Antigonish, 40 ; South River, 45 ; Taylor's 
Road, 47 ; Pomquet, 50 ; Heatherton, 52^ ; Afton, 56 ; Tracadie, 60 : Giroirs, 61^ ; 
Little Tracadie, 65 ; Harbor au Bouche, 69 ; Cape Porcupine, 69 ; Strait of Canso, 
74. 

Express-trains run daily, leaving New Glasgow after the arrival of the train from 
Halifax. 

On reaching the open country beyond New Glasgow, the road passes on 
for several miles through an uninteresting region of small farms and recent 
clearings. At the crossing of the Sutherland River, a road diverges to the 
N. E., leading to Mtrigomish, a shipbuilding hamlet on the coast, with a safe 
and well-sheltered harbor. In this vicinity are iron and coal deposits, the 
latter of which are worked by the Merigomish Coal Mining Company, with 
a capital of $ 400,000. Beyond the hamlet at the crossing of French River, 
— " which may have seen better days, and will probably see worse," — 
the road ascends a long ridge which overlooks the Piedmont Valley to the 
N. E. Thence it descends through a sufficiently dreary country to the 
relay-house at Marshy Hope. 

" The sun has set when we come thundering down into the pretty Catholic village 
of Antisonisli, the most home-like place we have seen on the island. The twin 
stone towers of the unfinished cathedral loom up large in the fading light, and the 
bishop's palace on the hill, the home of the Bishop of Arichat, appears to be an im- 
posing white barn with many stai-ing windows. . . . People \vere loitering in tlie 
street; the young beaux going up and down w th the belles, after the lei-^urely 
manner in youth and summer. Perhaps they were students from St Xavier Col- 



ANTIGONISH. Route 32. 139 

lege, or visiting gallants from Guysborough. They look into the post-office and the 
fancy store. They stroll and take their little provincial pleasure, and make love, 
for all we can see, as if Antigonish were a part of the worlJ. How they must look 
down on Marshy Hope and Adilington Forks and Tracadic I What a charming place 
to hve in is this 1 "• (Baddeok.) 

Antigonishi (two good inns), the capital of tlie county of the same 
name, is situated at the head of a long and shoal harbor, near St. 
George's Bay. Some shipbuilding is done here, and many cargoes of 
cattle and butter are sent hence to Newfoundland. On the E. shore of the 
harbor are valuable deposits of gypsum, which are sent away on coasting- 
vessels. The inhabitants of the village and the adjacent country are of 
Scottish descent, and their unwavering industry has made Antigonish a 
prosperous and pleasant town. The College of St. Francis Xaviei- is the 
Diocesan Seminary of the Franco-Scottish Diocese of Arichat, and is the 
residence of the Bishop. It is a Catholic institution, and has six teachers. 
The Cathedral of St. Ninian was begun in 1867, and was consecrated Sep- 
tember 13, 1874, by a Pontifical High Mass, at which 7 bishops and 30 
priests assisted. It is in the Roman Basilica style, 170 by 70 ft. in area, 
and is built of blue limestone and brick. On the facade, between the tall 
square towers, is the Gaelic inscription, Tighe Dlie (" the House of God "). 
The arched roof is supported by 14 Corinthian columns, and the interior 
has numerous windows of stained glass. The costly chancel-window rep- 
resents Christ, the Virgin i\Iary, and St. Joseph. There is a large organ, 
and also a chime of bells named in honor of St. Joseph and the Scottish 
saints, Nmian, Columba, and Margaret, Queen of Scotland. This splen- 
did structure is not too large for the numerous congregation every Sunday 
from the village and surrounding country, mostly Highland-Scotch, 
"who frequently hear sermons in their own Gaelic tongue from the Cathe- 
dral pulpit. A few yards from the Cathedral there is a neat three- 
story building recently erected for a Ladies'* Academy, to be conducted 
by the Montreal Sisters of the Congregation. The other denominations 
having churches in Antigonish are the Presbyterians, the Anglicans, and 
the Baptists. The Presbyterian Church, on Main Stn^et, is a handsome 
structure Avith a tall spire. The village has two branch banks and two 
weekly newspapers, — The Aurora, the organ of the Bishop of Arichat, 
and The Casket. The county has a population of 18,100, devoted chiefly 
to agricultural pursuits. Its capital is a pretty village with pleasant 
drives in the vicinity. Nearly all the people of the county do their shop- 
ping in the village, and hence the numerous stores along its main street, 
some of them large brick buildings. The harbor is ill-suited for shipping, 
but the railway now supplies the deficiency. 

1 Antigonish, — accent on the last syllable It is an Indian word, meaning "the Uiver ol 
Fi^h." 



140 Route S2. TRACADIE. 

Stages run daily from Antigoni^h S. to Sherbrooke by Lochaber and College Lake. 
N. W. of the village are the bol.l and picturesque highlands long known as thb 
Anfciffonisli i^Its., projectiag from the Hue of the coast about 15 M. N. into 
the Gulf. They are, in some places, 1,000 ft high, and have a strong and -well- 
marked mountainous character. Semi-weekiy stages run N from Antigonish to 
Morrlstown s.n6, GeorgevU I e, vespuctiYely 10 and 18 M distant. 8-10 M. N. of 
the latter is the bold promontory of Cape St. George, on which, 400 ft. above 
the sea, is a powerful revolving waite light, which is visible for 25 M. at sea. From 
this point a road runs S. W". to M c'lf/nant Cove, wliifh is also accessible by a ro- 
mantic road through the hills from Antigonish. Thi-i is a small seaside hnmlet, 
which derives its name frGi2 the fact that H. B. M. frigate Malignant was once 
caught in these narrow waters during a heavy storm, and was run ashore here in order 
to avoid being dashed to pieces on tae iron-bound coast beyond. 4-5 M. be\ ond 
the Cove is Arisai^, a rGmantically situated settlement of Scottish Catholics, who 
named their new home in memory of Arisaig, in the Western Highlands. It has a 
long wooden pier, under whose lee is the only harbor and shelter against ea.«t-winds 
between Antigonish and Merigomish 

The first important station between Antigonish and the Strait is 
Heatherton, a Franco-Scotch district of 2,000 inhabitants. A dailj- stage 
connects the railway at this station with Guysborough, a town on the 
Atlantic coast, about 20 M. S. of Heatherton, and the capital of the 
county of Guysborough (see page 133). Tracadie is in a French district 
of 1,180 inhabitants. There is a monastery here, pertaining to the aus- 
tere order of the Trappists. Most of the monks, between 40 and 50 in num- 
ber, are from Belgium. They are excellent farmers, and have their land 
thoroughly cultivated. Thei-e is also a Convent of Sisters of Charit}'' in 
the vicinity. The pe pie of Tracadie, like all the 41,219 French inhab- 
itants of Nova Scotia, belong to the old Acadian race, whose sad and 
romantic history is alluded to on pages 108 and 113. "And now we 
passed through another French settlement, Tracadie, and again the No-r- 
man kirtle and petticoat of the pastoral, black-eyed Evangeline appear, 
and then pass like a day-dream." (Cozzens.) 

Harbor au Bouche is a French district of 2,140 inhabitants. The village 
is out of sight of the station, on St. George's Bay, and has two churches 
and two inns. Beyond this point the line soon reaches its terminus, on the 
Strait of Canso, where passengers for Cape Breton take steamers. 

Terminal City, a few miles E. of Mulgrave, has recently been founded 
as a new ocean-port, for steamship travel to Europe, being 800 M. nearer 
Liverpool than New York is. It has an unusuall}'^ fine bay, deep and spa- 
cious, and free from ice or fog, and is near vast deposits of bituminous 
coal, which are controlled by the Terminal-City Company. 



CAPE BRETON. 



The island of Cape Breton is about 100 M. long by 80 M. wide, and has 
an area of 2,000,000 acres, of which 800,000 acres consist of lakes and 
swamps. The S. part is low and generally level, but the N. portion is 
very irregular, and leads off into unexplored highlands. The chief natural 
peculiarities of the island are the Sydney coal-fields, which cover 250 
square miles on the E. coast, and the Bras d'Or, a great lake of salt water, 
ramifying through the centre of the island, and communicating with the 
sea by narrow channels. The exterior coast line is 275 M. long, and is 
provided with good harbors on the E. and S. shores. 

The chief exports of Cape Breton are c^al and fish, to the United States; 
timber, to England; and farm-produce and live-stock to Newfoundland. 
The commanding position of the island makes it the key to the Canadas, 
and the naval power holding these shores could control or crush the com- 
merce of the Gulf. The upland soils are of good quality, and produce 
valuable crops of cereals, potatoes, and smaller vegetables. 

The Editor trusts that the following extract from Brown's " History of 
the Island of Cape Breton" (London : 1869) will be of interest to the 
tourist : " The summers of Cape Breton, say from May to October, may 
challenge comparison with those of any country within the temperate 
regions of the world. During all that time there are perhaps not more 
than ten foggy days in any part of the island, except along the southern 
coast, betweei the Gut of Canso and Scatari. Bright sunny days, with 
balmy westerly winds, follow each other in succession, week after week, 
while the midday heats are often tempered by cool, refreshi'ig sea-breezes. 
Of rain there is seldom enough ; the growing crops more often suffer from 
too little than too much." 

" To the tourist that loves nature, and who, for the manifold beauties by 
hill and shore, by woods and waters, is happy to make small sacrifices of 
personal comfort, I w^ould commend Cape Breton. Your fashionable, 
whose main object is company, dress, and frivolous pleasure with the gay, 
and whose only tolerable stopping-place is the grand hotel, had better 
content himself with reading of this island." (Noble.) 

The name of the island is derived from that of its E. cape, which was 
given in honor of its discovery by Breton mariners. In 1713 the French 
authorities bestowed upon it the new^ name of V Tsle Royale, during the 



142 Route 33. THE STRAIT OF CANSO. 

reign of Louis XIV. At this time, after the cession of Acadia to the Brit- 
ish Crown, many of its inhabitants emigrated to Cape Breton ; and in 
August, 1714, the fortress of Louisbourg was founded. During the next 
half-century occurred the terrible wars between France and Great Britain, 
whose chief incidents were the sieges of Louisbourg and the final demoli- 
tion of that redoubtable fortress. In 1765 this island was annexed to the 
Province of Nova Scotia. In 1784 it was erected into a separate Province, 
and continued as such until 1820, when it was reannexed to Nova Scotia. 
In 1815 Cape Breton had about 10,000 inhabitants, but in 1871 its popula- 
tion amounted to 75,503, a large proportion of whom were from the Scot- 
tish Highlands (see Century Magazine, July, 1884). 

83. The Strait of Canso. 

The Gut of Canso, or (as it is now more generally called) the Strait of 
Canso, is a picturesque passage which connects the Atlantic Ocean with 
the Gulf of St. Lawrence, and separates the island of Cape Breton from 
the shores of Nova Scotia. The banks are high and mountainous, covered 
with spruce and other evergreens, and a succession of small white ham- 
lets lines the coves on either side. This grand avenue of commerce 
seems worthy of its poetic appellation of "The Golden Gate of the St. 
La-wrence Gulf." It is claimed that more keels pass through this channel 
ever_y year than through any other in the world except the Strait of Gib- 
raltar. It is not only the shortest passage betwee i the Atlantic and the 
Gulf, but has the advantage of anchorage in ca'^e of contrarj^ winds and bad 
weather. The shores are bold-to and free from dangers, and there are sev- 
eral good anchorages, out of the current and in a moderate depth of water. 
The stream of the tide usually sets from the S., and runs in great swirling 
eddies, but is much influenced by the winds. The strait is described by 
Dawson as "a narrow transverse valley, excavated by the currents of the 
drift period," and portions of its shores ai-e of the carboniferous epoch. 

The Strait of Canso is traversed by several thousand sailing-vessels every year, and 
also by the large steamers of the Boston and P. ii. I. Steamship Company. 

" So with renewed anticipations we ride on toward the strait ' of unrivalled 
beauty,' that travellers saj^ ' surpasses anything in America.' And, indeed, Canseau 
can have my feeble testimony in confirmation. It is a grand marine highway, hav- 
ing steep hills on the Cape Breton Island side, and lofty mountains on the other 
shore ; a full, broad, mile-v^ide space between tliem ; and reaching, from end to end, 
fifteen miles, from the Atlantic to the Gulf of St. Lawrence." (Cozzens.) 

Vessels from the S., bound for the Strait of Canso, first approach the 
Nova-Scotian shores near Cape Canso (see page 134), whose lights and 
islands are rounded, and the course lies between N. W. and W. N. W. 
towards Eddy Point. If a fog prevails, the steam-whistle on Cranberry 
Island will be heard giving out its notes of warning, sounding for 8 seconds 
in each minute, and heard for 20 M. with the wind, for 15 M. in calm 



PORT HASTINGS. Route 33. 143 

weather, and 5-8 M. in stormy weather and a<:;ainst the wind. On tlie I. 
is Chedabucto Bay, stretching in to Guysborough, lined alonj]: its S. shore 
by hills 3-700 ft. high; and on the r. the Isle Madame is soon approached. 
28-30 M. beyond Cape Canso the vessel passes Eddy Point, on which are 
two fixed white lights (visible 8 M ). On the starboard beam is Janvria 
Island, beyond which is the broad estuary of Habitants Bay. On the 
Cape-Breton shore is the hamlet of Bear Point, and on the 1. are Melford 
Creek (with its church), Steep Creek, and Pirate's Cove. The hamlets of 
Port Mulgrave and Port Hawkesbury are now seen, nearly opposite each 
orher, and half-way up the strait. 

Port Mulgrave (two inns) is a village of about 400 inhabitants, on the 
Nova-Scotia side of the strait. It is engaged in the fisheries, and has a 
liarbor which remains open all the year round. Gold-bearing quartz is 
found in the vicinity; and bold hills tower above the shore for a long dis- 
tance. A steam ferry-boat plies between this point and Port Hawkesbury, 
\}f M. distant, in connection with the railway, running down from New 
Glasgow (see page 138, and end of page 166). The Cape- Breton Railway 
was opened in 1891 from the Strait of Canso to the Grand Narrows and 
Sydney. 

Port Hawkesbury {Hawkesbury Hotel, comfortable; Acadia Hotel) is a 
village of about 900 inhabitants, on the Cape-Breton side of the strait. It 
is situated on Ship Harbor, a snug haven lor vessels of •20-ft. draught, 
marked by a fixed red light on Tupper Point. This is the best harbor 
on the strait, and has very good holding-ground. The village is of a scat- 
tered appearance, and has four small churches. Stages run heiire lo 
Svdney, Arichat, and West Bay, on the Bras d'Or; and a railway lias 
been surveyed to the latter jioint. The steamships that ply between Bos- 
ton and Prince Edward Island weekly, call at Port Hawkesbury, toiiciiing 
at the wharf of the Bras d'Or steamboats, and making close and sure con- 
nections with them. They leave for Boston e^-ery Friday. 

Port Hastings (/Z^'S^iR^rs fTouse), is 3 M. above Port Hawkesbury, on 
the Cape-Breton shore, and is built on the bluffs over a small harbor. 
It derives its cliief interest from being the point where the Atlantic-Cable 
Company transfers its messages, received from all parts of Europe and 
delivered under the sea, to the Western Union Telegraph Company, by 
which the tidings are sent away through the Dominion and the United 
States. 

Mail-Staees. — The Shore-Line leaves Port Hastings on arrival of express- 
trains from rhe west, reaching Port Hood at 9 p. M., Mahou at 11 p. m., Margaree 
at 7 A. M., and Cheticamp at noon. Port Hastings to Port Hood, 30 M., fare $2 ; 
to Mabou, 40 M., ^2.50 ; to Strathlorne, 48 M., §3.50 ; to Margaree Harbor, 80 M., 
S5 ; to Cheticamp, 101 M., $^. Returning, the stage leaves Cheticamp at 5 A. M., 
Margaree at 9 a. m., Mabou at 3 p. m., and Port Hood at 5 P. m. 

The Yic-oria line of stages leaves Port Hastings on the arrival of the express- 
train from Truro, and reaches Kingiville (11 M., $1) at 7 P. M. ; Milford (27 M., 
$1.50) at 8 30 p. M. ; Whycocomagh (35 M., S2.50) at 10 p. m. ; and Baddock (60 M., 
$5) at 2 A M. Returning, the stage leaves Baddeck at 1 p. M., Wh\ cocomagh at 
4, Milford at 6, and Kingsville at 7.30. 



144 Route 33. CANSO. 

Nearly opposite Port Hastings is the bold and shaggy headland of Cape 
Porcupine^ attaining a height of 640 i't., and contracting the strait to its 
narrowest part. The stream now widens slowly, with 16 - 20 fathoms of 
water, and at its N. entrance (W. side) the steamer passes a Tghthouse, 
which sustains a powerful fixed white light, 110 ft. above the water, and 
visible from Cape St. George to Port Hood. 

Canso was in the earlier days called Campseau, or Canseau, and the word is 
derived from the Indian Camsoke, which signifies " facing the frowning cliffs." It 
is also claimed that the name is derived from the Spanish word Ganso, signifying 
''goose," in allusion to the great flocks of wild geese sometimes seen here. Here 
the Micmac traditions locate the marvellous transit of the divine Gloo?cap (see page 
106), who was stopped by these deep waters while on his way to attack a mighty wiz- 
ard in Newfoundland. He sumnioced from the sea a whale, who bore him across 
the strait, like a new Arion, and landed him on the Breton shores. 

For many years the Strait of Canso was called the I'assage de Fronsar.^ on all the 
old French maps and charts, in honor of the Sieur de Fronsac, the able and enter- 
prising Governor of Cape Breton ; and in 1518, over a century before Plymouth was 
founded, it was visited by the Baron de Lery, who designed forming a settlement on 
these shores, and left a considerable number of swine and cattle here. Savalette 
frequented this vicinity, for the purposes of fishing, from the year 1563 ; and in 
1604 De Monts found here four Basque ships (from St. Jean de Luz) trading with 
the Indians. Three jears later a Dutch vessel entered Canso, and excited the terri- 
ble hostility of the Indi.ms by rifling the graves of their dead in order to strip off 
the beaver-skins in which the corpses were wrapped Pontgrave cruised about these 
waters for a long time, protecting the monopolized fur-trade. 

A fortress and rendezvous for fishermen was soon established near Cape Canso, at 
the harbor of Canso. In 1688 the Canso station and the sedentary fishery were 
plundered by an expedition from Boston, consisting of a crew of West-Indian pri- 
vateersmen. They enttrtd these waters in a 10-gun vessel called a barcalonga, and 
carried away a French ship from the harbor. After the conquest of Acadia, the 
New-England fishermen occupied the harbor of Canso, and erected dwellings and 
warehouses. In 1720 the settlements were attacked at night by powerful Indian 
bands, and completely plundered, though most of the fishermen escaped to their 
vessels. They loaded several French vessels with the proceeds of the raid, and then 
retired to the forest. In 1722 the Massachusetts fishing-vessels were captui ed here by 
the Indians, and were followed by armed vessels of that Province, who retook them 
after a naval battle. H. M- S. Squirrel seized some illegal French traders here in 
1718 ; and in 1724 a prize-vessel was boarded by the savages in the Gut of Canso, and 
all its crew v.ere killed or captured. During the subsequent peace New England had 
1,500 - 2,C00 men here in the fisheries, and in 1733, 46,C00 quintals of dry fish were 
exported hence. When the war-clouds were lowering, in 1737, the British had 100 
soldiers in garrison here, and H. M. S. EUham was kept in the Strait as a guard- 
ship. In 1744 M. Duvivier attacked Canso at the head of 670 men, French Aca- 
dians and Micmacs, and soon captured and destroyed it. In 1745 Pepperell reached 
Canso with 8 regiments of Massachusetts troops and New-Hampshire and Connecti- 
cut regiments, and here he remained for some weeks, drilling his men and erecting 
fortifications. At a later day Commodore Warren arrived here with the British 
West-Indian fleet, the Superb, 60, Launcestooi, 40, Mermaid, 40, Eltham, and other 
ships. 

The British war-vessel Little Jack, 6 guns, was cruising about the Strait of Canso in 
1781, when she met two Marblehead privateers. Securing a favorable position near 
Petit de Grat, a shore-battery was formed, and the cutter was anchored with springs 
on her cable. After a sharp action, one of the privateers was crippled and forced to 
surrender, and the other made haste to escape. The Americans were paroled at Petit 
de Grat, and the vessel was taken to Quebec. 

After the close of the American Revolution, the S. end of the Strait of Canso was 
occupied by a colony of Loyalists from Florida, who sufl'ered terribly from the com- 
parative inclemency of the climate. The piesent inhabitants ot these shores are 
mostly of Scottish descent, a hardy and intrepid people. So late as the year 1787 
there was not one settler on the Breton side of the strait, and the immigration bas 
mostly occurred during the present century. 



ARICriAT. Route. U. U5 



34. Arichat and Isle Madame 

A mail-stage runs daily from Port Ilawkesburv to Arichat, 30 M. S. E., 
passing near the sea-shore hamlets of Caribacou and Lower River Inhab- 
itants, and approaching the Scottish village of Grand Anse. At the French 
lishing-settlement of Grand Digue, the passenger is ferried across the 
Lennox Passage, a long and picturesque strait which separates Isle 
Madame from the Breton shores. Steamers run from Halifax to Arichat. 

Isle Madame is 16 J\I. in length from E. to W., and about 5 M. in 
breadth. Its surface is very irregular, though of but moderate elevation, 
and the central part is occupied by a small lake. It was settled over a 
century ago, by exiles from Acadia, whose descendants now occupy the 
land, and are pious Catholics and daring seamen. 

In 1760 the French explorer of Isle Madame found 113 inhabitants here, " who 
live as they can," on a sterile soil, and barely maintained by some petty fisheries. 
He closes his account by saying, " We quitted this country Nvith no regret, except 
that we must leave there so "many miserable people." 

Arichat {F'udaij's Hotel, S 1.50 a day), the capital of Richmond County, 
is the most important fishing-station between Halifax and St. John's, New- 
foundland. It has over 1,000 inhabitants, most of whom are of Acadian- 
French origin, and are connected in some way with the sea. The fisheries 
of which this port is the centre are connected with the great establish- 
ments on the Isle of Jersey (in the English Channel), like those of Cheti- 
camp, Gasp^, and Paspebiac. There is also an American firm located 
here, engaged in the canning of lobsters. The town is scattered along the 
steep N. shore of a spacious and secure harbor, which is sheltered by 
Jerseyman Island, and is " capable of containing any number of the largest 
ships." The spacious Catholic church in the W. part of the town is pro- 
vided with a chime of bells, and is the seat of the Coadjutor Bishop of 
Arichat, whose diocese includes Cape Breton and the E. counties of Nova 
Scotia. It is claimed that "The Sisters of !he Congregation of Notre 
Dame, of Montreal, have a grand and flourishing academy for female edu- 
cation of the highest order in the town of Arichat." E. of the cathedral is 
the Richmond County Court-House, surmounted by a cupola. There are 
also an English academy and an Anglican church in the town. On the 
S. W. is seen the lighthouse, bearing a fixed red light, which guides mari- 
ners through the Crid Passage and into the harbor. 

Arichat has abundant boating and fishing facilities. The favorite drive 
is the tree-arched Grandique Road. Grand Lake, favored by picnics, la 
surrounded by stately forests. The Sea-View and Ocean Houses charge 
$4 to S7 a week. Steamboats run to Arichat from Mulgrave. 

To the W. LittU Arichat extends along the coast, with 1,600 French in- 
habitants. E, of Arichat is the Acadian fishing-hamlet of Petit de Grat, 
with 2,000 inhabitants ; and D' Escvusse is another place of similar pursuits, 
across the Bav of Rocks. 

7 J 



146 Route 35. ST. PETER'S. 

35. The Strait of Canso to Sydney, C. B. 

The direct route is by the new Cape-Breton Railway (see page 1G6). By 
the loay of the la7id, throuyh St. Ptter's 

The Royal mail-stage leaves Port Hawkesbury every morning, som-e time after the 
arrival of the Antigonish stage, and runs E. and N. E. to Sydney. Fare, Sr 5- This 
is one of the most arduous routes by which Sydney can be approached, and leads 
through a thinly settled and uninteresting country until St. Peter's is reached. 
Beyond that point there is a series of attractive views of the Great Bras d"Or and St. 
Andrew's Channel, continuing almost to Sydney. 

iJistances. — (Port Hastings to Port Hawkesbury, 4- 5 M. ) Port Hawkesbury 
to Grand Anse, 21 M. ; St. Peter's, 35 ; Red Island, 52; Irish Cove, 64; Sydney, 
100. 

There is but little to interest the traveller during the first part of the 
journey. After leaving Port Hawkesbury, the stage enters a rugged and 
unpromising country, leaving the populous shores of Canso and pushing 
E. to the River Inhabitants. Crossing that stream where it begins to nar- 
row, the road continues through a region of low bleak hills, with occasional 
views, to the r , of the deeper coves of the Lennox Passage. Before noon 
it reaches the narrow Haulover Isthmus, which separates St. Peter's Bay, 
on the Atlantic side, from St. Peter's Inlet, on the Bras d'Or side. At this 
point is situated the village of St. Peter's, a Scottish settlement near the 
bay. The canal which has been constructed here to open communication 
between the Atlantic and the Bras d'Or is ^ M. long, 26 ft. wide, and 13 
ft. deep, and is expected to be of much benefit to the Bras d'Or villages It 
has been tinished within a few years, and ) ertains to the Government.which 
takes a small toll frum the vessels passing through. S E. of St. Peter's 
are the bluff heights of Mt. Granville, and to the N. W. are the uninhab- 
ited highlauds which are called on the maps the Sporting Mts. 

St. Peter's was founded by M. Denys, about the year 1636, to comm_and the lower 
end of the Bras d"Or, as his'post at St. Anne's commanded the upper end. He built 
a portage-road here, opened farm-lands, and erected a fort which mounted several 
cannon The Indians residing on the m.ost remote arms of the Bras d'Or were thus 
enabled to visit and carry their furs and fish to either one of Denys's forts. Denys 
himself, together with the fort, the ship, and all other property here, was captured 
soon after by a naval force sent out by M. le Borgne. But in 1056 Denys retook his 
posts, guarded bv a charter from King Louis. A few >ears later St. Peter's was 
captured by La Giraudiere, but was afterwards restored to Denys, who, however, 
abandoned the island about 1670, when all his buildings at this post-were destroyed 
by fire. In 1737 St. Peter's was fortified by M. de St. Ovide, the commandant at 
Louisbourg; but during the New-England crusade against the latter city, in 1745, 
it was captured and plundered by Col. Moulton's Massachusetts regiment. In 1752 
St. Peter's was the chief depot of the fur-trade with the Micmacs, and was sur- 
rounded with fruitful farms. It was then called Port Tovlouse, and was connected 
with Louisbourg by a military road 18 leagues in length, constructed by the Count 
de Raymond. Besides tlie garrison of French troops, there was a civil popiilatiou 
of 230 souls ; and in 1760 Port Toulouse had grown to be a larger town than even 
Louisbourg itself. The King of France afterwards reprimanded the Count de Ray- 
mond for constructing his military road, saying that it would aflbrd the English an 
opportunity to attack Louisbourg on the landward side. 

From the Strait of Canso to Grand River the coast is occupied by a line of humble 
and retired villages, inhabited by Acadian-French fishermen. 7-8 M. S. E. of St. 
Peter's are the L^Ardoise settlements (so named because a slate-quarry was once 
worked here). In 1750 there was a large French village here, with a garrison of 



THE BRAS D'OR. RuiUe 35. 147 

troops, and L'Ardoise was the chief depot of the fur-trade with the Indians. At 
Grand River the character of the population changes, though the names of the set- 
tlement \vt)uli.l indicate, were history silent, that the towns beyond that point were 
originally foiunlcd l)y tlie French They are now occupied exclusively by the Scotch, 
whose light vessels put out from the harbors of Grand River, I/Archeveque, St. 
Esprit, Blancherotte, Framboise, and Fourchu, on which are fishing-villages. 

A few miles X. K. of St. Peter's the stage crosses the Iiulian Reserva- 
tion ne r Louis Cove Chapd Island is a little way ofl" shore, and is the 
largest of the group of islets at the mouth of St. Peter's Inlet. These 
islands were granted by the government, in 1792, to the Micmac chiefs 
Bask and Tomnia, for the use of their tribe, and have ever since been re- 
tained by their descendants. On the largest island is a Catholic chapel 
where all the Micmacs of Cape Breton gather, on the festival of St. Anne, 
every year, and pass several days in religious ceremonies and aboriginal 
games. Beyond this point the road runs N. Y^. between Soldier's Cove and 
the bold highlands on the r. and traverses the Red-Island Settlement, off 
■which are the Red Islands. 

" The road that skirts the Arm of Gold is about 100 M. in length. After leaving 
Sydney you ride beside the Spanish Kiver a short distance, uutil you come to the 
portage, which separates it from the lake, and then you follow the delicious curve 

of the great beach until you arrive at St. Peter's There is not a lovelier ride 

by white-pebbled beach and wide stretch of wave. Now we roll along amidst pri- 
meval trees, — not the evergreens of the sea-coast, but familiar growths of maple, 
beech, birch, and larches, juniper, or hackmatack, — imperishable for shipcraft ; 

now we cross bridges, over sparkling brooks alive with trout and salmon To 

hang now in our curricle, upon this wooded hill-top, overlooking the clear surface 
of the lake, with leafy island, and peninsula dotted in its depths, in all its native 
grace, without a touch or trace of handiwork, far or near, save and except a single 
spot of sail in the far-off, is holy and sublime." (Cozzens.) 

About 10 M. beyond the Red Island Settlement is the w^ay-office and vil- 
lage at Irish Cove, whence a road runs 10 - 12 M. S. E. across the highlands 
to the Grand-River Lake, or Loch Lomond, a picturesque sheet of water 
5-6 M. long, studded with islets and abounding in trout. The Scottish 
hamlets of Loch Lomond and Lochside are on its shores; and on the N., 
and connected by a narrow strait, is Loch Uist. The road crosses the 
lake and descends to Framboise Harbor, on the Atlantic coast. 

N. of Loch Uist, and about 7 M from the Bras d'Or, is a remarkable saline spring, 
containing in each gallon 3i3 grains of chloride of sodium, 308 of chloride of cal- 
cium, and 9 of the chlorides of magnesium and potassium. This water is singularly 
free from sulphurous contamination, and has been found very efficient in cases of 
asthma, rheumatism, and chronic headache. There are no accommodations for 
visitors. 

About 6 M. N. W. of Irish Cove is seen Benacadie Point, at the entrance 
to the East Bay, a picturesque inlet of the Bras d'Or, which ascends for 
18-20 M. to the N. E., and is boi'dered by lines of bold heights. Near its 
X. shore are several groups of islands, and the depth of the bay is from 
8 to 32 fathoms. The stage follows its shore to the upper end. Above 
Irish Cove the road lies between the bay and a mountain 600 ft. high, be- 
yond which is Cape Rhumore. 3-4 M. farther on is Loch an Fad, beyond 
which a roadside chapel is seen, and the road passes on to Edoobekuk, 



148 Route 86. THE BRAS D'OR. 

between the heights and the blue Avater. The opposite shore (4 M. dis- 
tant) is occupied by the Indians, whose principal village is called Escasoni, 
and is situated near the gi-oup of islands in Crane Cove. The bay now 
diminishes to 2 M in width, and is followed to its source in the lagoon of 
Tweednogie. The aggregate number of inhabitants, Scottish and Indian, 
along the shores of the East Bay, is a little over 2,000. The stage crosses 
the narrow isthmus (4-5 M.), and then follows the line of the Forks 
Lake and the Spanish River, to the town of Sydney. 
Sydney, see page 150. 



36, Halifax to Sydney, Cape Breton. 

By the Sea. 

There are several routes by sea between Halifax and Sydney, the fares being 
S 8-10. The tourist should seod a note to the steamship-ageuts, at Halifax, for par- 
ticulars. 

The easiest route from Boston is by steamship to Port Hawkesbury, on the Strait 
of Canso, and thence up the Bras d'Or. 

There are now several steamboats plying on the Bras d'Or, giving the best of 
facilities (from the Provincial point of view) for visiting the various ports and villa- 
ges of this lovely inland sea (see end of page 166). 

Halifax Harbor, see page 93. 

The course of the steamship is almost always within sight of land, a 
cold, dark, and rock-bound coast, off which are submerged ledges on 
which the sea breaks into white foam. This coast is described in Routes 
28 and 29 ; but of its aspect from the sea the Editor can say nothing, as 
he was obliged to traverse the route as far as Canso by night. 

After passing the bold headland of Cape Canso, the deep bight of Ched- 
abucto Bay is seen on the W., running in to Guysborough and the Strait 
of Canso. Between Cape Canso and Red Pomt, on Cape Breton, the open- 
ing is about 30 M. wide, inside of which are Isle Madame (Route 34) and 
St. Peter's Bay. The course of the vessel, after crossing this wide open- 
ing, converges toward the Breton coast, which is, however, low and with- 
out character, and is studded with white fishing-hamlets. St. Esprit is 
visible, with its little harbor indenting the coast. 

About the middle of the last century the British frigate Tilbwy, 64, was caught 
on this shore during a heavy gale of wind, and was unable to work ofif, in spite of 
tne utmost exertions of her great crew. The Tilbury Rocks, off St Esprit, still 
comn emorate the place where she finally struck and went to pieces. 200 sailors 
V cr(> cither drowned or killed by being dashed on the sharp rocks, and 200 men and 
15 officers were saved from the waves bv the French people of St. Esprit, who nour- 
ished and sheltered tliem with tender care. England and France being then at war, 
the survivors of the Tilburifs crew were despatched to France as prisoners, on the 
French frigate Hermione. This vessel was, however, captured in the English Chan- 
nel, and the sailors were released. 

Beyond St. gsprit the coves of Framboise and Fourchu make in from 



CAPE BRETON. Roide SO. U9 

the sea, and above the deep inlet of Gabarns Bay the lighthouse of Louis- 
bourg (see Route 38) may perhaps be seen. 

Ill 1744 the French ships iVo^rc Dainedela De'.ivrance, Louis Ivrasme, and Marquis 
(fAntin sailed from Oallao (Peru), with a vast amount of treasure ou board, con- 
cealed under a surface-cargo of cocoa. The two latter were captured off tlie Azores 
by the British privateers Pn'nre Frerlerick and Duke, but during the 3 hours' action 
the Notre Da)?!" escaped. Not daring to approach the French cojust while so many 
hostile privateers were cruising about, she crowded all sail and bore away for Louis- 
bourg. 20 days later she sighted Scatari, and it seeaiei that her valuabl; cargo 
was already safe. But she was met, a short distance to the S , by a British fleet, 
and became a prize. Among the people captured on the Notre Dame was DoQ 
Antonio d"Ulloa, the fimous Spanish scientist, who was kept here in light captivity 
for two months, and who afterwards wrote an interesting book about Cape Breton. 
The lucky vessels that made the capture were the Sunderland, Boston, and Chester, 
and their crews had great prize-money, — for over $4,000,000 was found on the 
Notre Dame, in bars and ingots of gold and silver. 

In 1756 the French frigate Arc-en-Ciel, 50, and the Amitii were captured in these 
waters by H. B M. ships Centurion SiwOi Success. In July, 1756, the French vessels 
Heros. 74, lUustre, 64, and two 3:]-gun frigates met H B. M. ships Grafton, 70, Not- 
tingham, 70, and the Jaynair.a sloop, and fought from mid-afternoon till dark The 
action was indecisive, and each fleet claimed that the other stole away at night. 
The loss of men ou both sides was considerable 

In May, 1745, a gallant naval action was fought hereabouts between the French 
ship-of-the-line Vigilant and Com. \\'arren's fleet, consisting of the Swpr-rh (60-gun 
ship), and the LarH7jfe5«072, Mier?7!n/r/, and £'/Z/ia?n 40-gun frigates) The Vigilant \^za 
carrying a supply of military goods from Brest to Louisbourg, and met the Mer- 
maid, standing off and on in the fog. The latter made sail and fled toward the 
squadron, and the Vigilant swept on in the fog and ran into the midst of the 
British fleet. Warren's ships opened fire on every side, but the French captain, 
the Marquis de Maisonforte, refused to surrender, though his decks were covered 
with stores and his lower batteries were below the water-line by reason of the heavy 
cargo. The battle was terrific, and lasted for 7 hours, while Maisonforte kept his 
colors flying and his cannon roaring until all his rigging was cut away by the British 
shot, the rudder was broken, the forecastle battered to pieces, and great numbers 
of the crew wounded or dead. 

The steamship now runs out to round Scatari, traversing waters which 
maintain a uniform depth of over 30 fathoms. On the W. is the promon- 
tory of Cape Breton, from which the island receives its name. It is a low 
headland, off wlvch is the dark rock of Porto Nuevo Island. 

There is an old French tradition to the effect that Verazzano, the eminent Floren- 
tine navigator, landed near Cape Breton on his last voyage, and attempted to found 
a fortified settlement. But being suddenly attacked and overpowered by the Indians, 
himself and all his crew were put to death in a cruel manner. It is known to his- 
tory that this discoverer was never heard from after leaving France on his last voy- 
age (in 1525). 

_It is believed that Cape Breton was first visited by the Marigold (70 tons), in 
1593 ; whereof it is written : '■ Here diuers of our men went on land vpon the very 
cape, where, at their arriuall they found the spittes of oke of the Sauages which had 
roasted meate a little before And as they viewed the countrey they saw diuers 
beastes and foules, as blacke foxes, deeres, otters, great foules with redde legges, pen- 
guines, and certaiue others." Thence the Marigold sailed to the site of Louisbourg, 
where her crew landed to get water, but were driven offshore by the Indians. 

The cape probably owes its name to the fact of its being visited by the Breton and 
Basque fishermen, who in those days frequen ed the^e seas. Cape Breton was at 
thvt time a prosperous commercial city, near Bayonne, in the South of France. It 
was frequented by the Huguenots about this time, and had large fleets engaged in 
the fisheries. By the changing of the course of the Adour River, and the drifting of 
sand into its harbor, its maritime importance was taken away, and in 1841 it had but 
920 inhabitants. (Dictionnaire Encyrlojiedique.) 

In 1629 Lord Ochiltree, the son of the Earl of Arran, came out with 60 colonists, 



150 Route 36. SYDNEY. 

and founded a town on the harbor of Baleine, S. E. of Cape Breton. The headstrong 
Scottish noble was arbitrary in his deahngs with the French fishermen on the coast, 
and was soon attacl<ed by a strong body of Normans. The armor-clad Scots for a 
time defended their fort bravely, but were at last compelled to surrender, and were 
carried off as prisoners, including Lord Ochiltree, who was plundered of all that he 
possessed, and was sent to France in the hold of the Great St. Andrew. 

In 1725 the French frigate Le Chameau, 60, was wrecked on Porto Nuevo Island, 
and all on board were lost. Among these unfortunate people were M de Chazel, 
Intendant of Canada; M de Louvigny, Governor of Trois Rivieres, numerous other 
colonial dignitaries, and feveral ecclesiastics. " This misfortune in the course of a 
single night brought more grief and loss upon the French colonies than they had 
suffered during 20 years of warfare." (Charlevoix. ) 

Scatari Island is about 5 M. N. E. of Cape Breton, and lies on the 4Gtli 
parallel of N. latitude. It is a I'ock-bound island, 8 by 4 M. in area, and 
is a favorite resort of sea-birds On the E. point is a povi^erful revolving 
white light, and on the W. end is a fixed red light. The Halifax and Syd- 
ney steamers sometimes run inside of Scatari, through the Main-a-Dieu 
(or Menadou) Passage, near the obscure fishing-hamlet of Main-a-Dieu. 
N. and W. of Scatari is the wiAe, deep, and unsheltered Mira Bay, 

After crossing the broad mouth of Mira Bay, the shallow^er bight of Cow 
Bay is seen on the 1. The vessel steams to the N., by the dark and rug- 
ged rock o^ Flint Island, and then runs about N. W. by the great coal-dis- 
tricts of Glace Bay and Lingan (see Route 37). Rounding the lighthouse 
on Low Point (or Flat Point), she ascends Sydney Harbor, passing the 
mines and villages of the Victoria Company on the 1., and the great shafts 
and works, hanilets and churches, of the General Mining Association on 
the r. After running by the lighthouse on the S. E. Bar, the opening of 
the W. Arm is seen, and the steamer soon reaches her wharf at Sydney. 

Sydney, formerly the capital of the Island-Province of Cape Breton, 
occupies a favorable position on one of the finest harboi's on the Atlantic 
coast, and is the chief town of the island. It has about 2,-500 inhabitants, 
with 6 churches, 2 newspapers, a masonic hall, and the Court-House of 
Cape Breton County. The principal article of trade is coal, of which vast 
quantities are brought by railways to this harbor, whence they are sent 
away on vessels. Cattle and provisions are also exported from this point 
to St. Pierre and Newfoundland. Near the water's edge is a white build- 
inar, surrounded by balconies and adjoined by a broad pier and a flag-statf. 
This little estate is the headquarters of the Fre'ch fleet in the North At- 
lantic, and is kept with true man-of-war's-man's neatness. There is 
usually a frigate of this fleet lying oflf the village, and their bands fre- 
quently play in the town. There is a pleasant view over the harbor from 
the old fort on Barrack Point. 

It is usually said of a fair harbor anywhere in the Australian or Ameri- 
can colonies, that it " is capable of co'taining the wliole British navy." 
This remark has been made concerning Sydney Harbor b}' the best 
authority, Capt. Bayfield, R. N., the marine surveyor who made the 



Noirni svDNHY. i:,»>tr .Hi 1,51 

Admiralty charts fur the British North-American coast. Tlie deep water 
continues above the wharves, and as far up as Sydney Bridj^^e. The har- 
bor is usually ice-bound durini:;; the winter, fioni ,Iaii. 1 to April 1, and on 
tliis account is less valuable than others more to the S. 

Hotels. — J/;'S. King's ; Miss I/earn' s ; McKen-Ae House : Central : .Inwr- 
ic'tn : all at Sydney. At N. Sydney the Vendoine and the Belmont. 

The town of Sydney is not attractive in its external aspects, though it is said tliat 
its society is of a high order of culture and exclusive dignity It possesses many of 
the social attributes of an old colonial capital, though there are now no vestiges of its 
former position save the deserted barracks and decaying batteries. The stranger in 
Sydney will be able to see all that he cares to of the town in less than an hour, for 
it is devoid of interest, notwithstanding the prominent position which it holds in 
the world's marine intelligence and shipping news. Svdney is 750 M. from New 
York, 600 M from Boston, 240 M. from Halifax, 400 M. from St. John's (N. F.), 
and 720 M. from Quebec. 

Railroad-trains run from Sydney to Lo isbourg (see page 154) ; stages, to Lingan, 
Little Glace Bav, and Cow Bay ; ferry-boats to N. Sydney ; steamboats to Baddcck, 
the Bras d'Or, and the Strait of Canso ; and steamships to St. John's (Newfound- 
land), Halifiix, etc. 

There are several .^mall hoteN and boarding-houses at Sydney and N. Sydney, but 
the large and comfortable hotel which the custom of the locality seems to warrant 
has not yet been built. The steamship officers can recommend the best stopping- 
places. 

North Sydney is 6-8 M. N. W. of Sydney, with which it is connected 
by the steam ferry-boat Lady of the Lake, making three trips daily- It 
is a busy and dingy little place, and has several tanneries, a shoe-factory, 
and the shipping-depots of the Sydney coal-mines. There are several 
taverns, of the most inferior order. The marine-railway at this point was 
for many months occupied by the hulks and wrecked vessels wdiich 
were left along the coast after the Lord's-Day Gale. About 4 M. N. VV. 's 
the French Village on the Little Bras d'Or; and a road runs 30 M. S. W. 
over the uninhabited highlands of the peninsiila of St. Andrews, to the 
Grand Narrows, on the Bras d'Or Lake. 

The harbor of Sydney was visited in 1587 by the English ship Hopeioell, which 
drove out a Biscayan vessel and plundered all the fish-stages along the shore. Many 
savages here visited the ship, " among whom was their king, whose name was Itary, 
and their queene, to whom also we gaue coats and kniues and other trifles. These 
Sauages called the harborow Cibo. In this place are the greatest multitude of 
lobsters that euer we heard of ; for we caught at one hawle with a little draw 
net abouel40.'' This harbor soon received the name of Bale des Espagnols, be- 
cause during the troublous times of the 16th century, it was the favorite resort of 
the Spanish fishermen, as Louisbourg was of the EngUsh, and St. Anne's of the 
French. 

In 1696 the French frigates UEm.'ieux and Profond., commanded by the valiant 
Iberville, entered the harbor of Sydney, and summoned to its shores the Indian 
warriors of Cape Breton. A chosen force of Micmacs were soon embarked, and then 
they sailed away to the destruction of Pemaquid. This was also the station of the 
powerful French squadron under the Chevalier du Palais. After Admiral Walker's 
terribly disastrous voyage in the Gulf (in 1711), the remainder of his fleet was 
gathered together here, and it is said that the 42 war- vessels then assembled formed 
the most powerful naval armament ever seen in these waters. They lay in the 
roadstead, abreast of Lloyd's Cove, and the Admiral had the following pompous in- 
scription erected on the shore: — 

" In nomine Patris, FiUi, tt Spirit ■$ Sancti, Amen. Omnibus in Christi Fideli- 
bus Salutem. Anna, Dei GraticB, Magh. BritannicB, Francice., et Hibetaicz, Regina; 



152 Routes?. THE SYDNEY COAL-FIELDS. 

Totiusque Americce Septentrionalis Domina, Fidei Defensor, etc. In Cujus karum 
insularum vulgo Cape Breton, Proprietatis et Dominii Testimonium , Hoc Erexit 
Mo7iumentu7n, Sucp. Majestatis Servus, et Subditus Jidelissimus, D. Hovenden 
Walker, Eques Auratus, Omnium, in America Navium Regalium, Ptcefectus et 
T/ia/cwisiarc/ia. Monte Septembris, Anno 6'a^M^w MDCCXI." 

The first civil governor of Cape Breton after its severance from Nova Scotia (1784) 
was Major Desbarres, a veteran of the campaigns of the Mohawk A^ alley , Lake George, 
Ticonderoga, Louisbourg, and Quebec. One of his chief steps was to select a site for 
the new capital of the island, and the location chosen was the peninsula on the S. 
arm of the capacious hai'bor called Spanish River. The seat of government thus 
established was named Si'duey, in honor of Lord Sydney, Secretary of State for the 
Colonies, who had erected Cape Breton into a separate Province. * In the spring of 
1785 the Loyalists under Abraham Cuyler (ex-Ma^or of Albany, N. Y.) came from 
Louisbourg to Sydney, cut down the forests, and erected buildings. 

In 1781 a sharp naval battle was fought off Sydney Harbor, between the French 
frigates VAstice and VHenmone (of 44 guns each) and a British squadron consist- 
ing of the Cliarlestown, 28, Allegiance , 16, Vulture, 16, Little Jack, 6, and the armed 
transport Vernon. 16 coal-ships which were under convoy of the British fleet fled 
into Sydney harbor, while the frigates rapidly overhauled the escort and brought on 
a general engagement. After a long and stubborn action, the Little Jaf^- surren- 
dered, and the remainder of the fleet would have shared the same fate, had it not 
been for the approach of night, under whose shelter the shattei-ed British vessels 
bore away to the eastward and escaped. They had lost 18 men killed and 28 
wounded. The senior captain of the victorious French vessels was La I'erouse, who 
started in 1788, with two frigates, on a voyage of discovery around the world, but 
was lost, with all his equipage, on the Isle of Vanikoro. 



• 37. The East Coast of Cape Breton.— The Sydney Coal- 
Fields. 

The Sydney Mines are on the N. side of Sydney Harbor, and are con- 
nected with N. Sydney by a coal-railway and also by a daily stage (fare, 
75c.). They are on the level land included between the Little Bras d'Or 
and the harbor of Sydney, and are worked by the General Mining Asso- 
ciation of London. Nearly 500 men are employed in the pits, and the vil- 
lage has a population of 2,500. 

The International Mines are at Bridgeport, 13 M. N. E. of Sydney, and 
are connected with that harbor by a railway that cost $500,000. The sea- 
shore is here lined with rich coal-deposits, extending from Lingan Harbor 
to S^^dney. It is probable that the submarine mining, which has already 
been commenced, will follow the carboniferous strata far beneath the sea. 

The Victoria Mines are W. of this district, and near Low Point, 9 M. 
from Sydney. The company has a railway which extends to their freight- 
ing station on Sydney Harbor, and is at present doing a prosperous busi- 
ness. 

The Lingan Mines are near Bridgeport, and are reached by a tri-weekly 
stage from Sydney (15 M. ; fare, $1.50). Lingan is derived from the 
French word L'Indienne, applying to the same place. It was occupied 
and fortified by the British early in the 18th century, and a garrison of 
50 men was stationed here to guard the coal-mines. At a later day the 
French army at Louisbourg was supplied with large quantities of coal 
from this point, and several cargoes were sent away. During the summer 



THE SYDNEY COAL-FIELDS. Route 37. IT) 3 

of 1752 the mine was set on fire, and the fort and buildings were all 
destroyed. 

The Little Glace Bay Mines are 18 M. from Sydney, and are reached 
by a tri-weekly stage (fare, $1). They are situated on Glace Bay and 
Glace Cove, and about Table Head, and are carried on by a Halifax com- 
pany, which employs 300 miners. The deposits are very rich along this 
shore, and extend far out beneath the sea. 

The Gowrie and Block-House Mines are on Cow Bay, and are among the 
most extensve on this coast. They are 22 M. from Sydney, and are 
reached by a tri-weekh^ stage. They employ over 600 men, and have 
formed a town of 2,000 inhabitants. Large fleets gather in the bay for 
the transportation of the coal to the S., and while lying here are in con- 
siderable peril during the prevalence of easterly gales, which have a full 
sweep into the roadstead. Nearly 70 vessels were wrecked here during 
the Lord's-Da}' Gale, and the shores were strewn with broken hulks and 
man}' yet sadder relics of disaster. The S. portal of the bay is Cape 
Morien, and on the N. is Cape Perry, off which is the sea-surrounded Flint 
Island, bearing a revolving white light. 

The coal-beds of Cape Breton -were first described by Denys, in 1672, and from 
1677 to 1690 he had a royalty of 20 sous per ton on all the coal that was exported. 
Some of it was taken to Fnince, and great quanticii^s were sent into New England. 
In 1720 a mine was opened at Cow Bay, whence the French army at Louisbourg 
•was supplied, and numerous cargoes were shipped to Boston. Between 1745 and 
1749 the Briti.sh garrison at Louisbourg was abund.mtly supplied with fuel from 
mine.« at Burnt Head and Little Bras d'Or, which were protected against the Indians 
by fortified outposts. The Abbe Raynal says that there was " a prodigious demand 
for Cape-Breton coal from New England from the year 1745 to 1749."' But this trade 
was soon stopped by the British government, anil only enough mining was done to 
supply the troops at Louisbourg and Halifix. The "coal -smugglers "' still carried 
on a lucrative business, slipping quietly into the harbors and mining from the great 
seams in the face of the cliffs. In 1785 the Sydney vein was opened by Gov. Des- 
barres, but its profitable working was prevented by heavy royalties. The Imperial 
Government then assumed the control, and its vessels captured many of the light 
craft of the smugglers. In 1828 the General Mining Association vvas formed in Lon- 
don, and secured the privilege of the mines and minerals of Nova Scotia and Cape 
Breton from the Duke of York, to whom they had been granted by King George IV. 
Under the energetic management of the Association the business increased ra'pidly, 
and became profitable. Between 1827 and 1857 (inclusive), 1,9.31,634 tons of coal 
were mined in Cape Breton, of which 605,008 tons were sent to the United States. 
Between 1857 and 1870 there were sold at the mines 3,323,981 tons. By far the 
greater part of these products came from the Sydney field, but of late years consid- 
erable exportations are being made from the mines at Glace Bay, Cow Bay (Block- 
House), Gowrie, and Lingan. The Caledonia, Glace Bay, and Block-House coals are 
used for making gas at Boston and Cambridge, and the gas of New York is made 
from International, Glace Bay, Caledonia, and Block-House coals. 



" In travelling from Ilawkesbury to Port Hood, and Baddeck and back again, by 
the Bras d'Or Lakes, o.ic traverses a couutry in some places tuickiy settled, but all 
appa-eiitly well settled by a race of men physically the superior of any other on the 
face of this continent. They are chiefly of Highland Scotch descent, with a spx-iuk- 
ling of French Canadians, and as a matter of coui-^e nearly ail Roman Catholics in 
their religious belief. . . The Cape I'.retouers seem to be very prolific in the propaga- 
tion of their species No immigration is wanted here ; only give them time, and 
they will compass the same ends themselves. Nothing under ten children is consid- 
ered a large family, and tho.se who fall short of this generally consider it necessary 
to explain the unusual circumstance." 



154 Route 38. LOUISBOURG. 

38. The Fortress of Louisbourg. 

Louisbourg is reached by stages, from Sydney, in 24 M. A road runs 
hence 15-18 M. N. E. along an interesting coast, to Cape Breton (see page 
149), passing the hamlets of Big and Little Loran, "named in honor of 
the haughty house of Lorraine." Cape Breton itself is nearly insulated 
bv the deep haven of Baleine Cove, and just off its S. point is the rock of 
Porto Nuevo, rising boldly from the sea. Beyond the cape and the hamlet 
of Main-a-Dieu the Mira Bay road passes the hamlet of Catalogne (18 M. 
from Sydney), at the outlet of the broad lagoon of the Catalogue Lake, 
and follows the Mira River from the village of Mira Gut to the drawbridge 
on the Louisbourg road, where the farming hamlet of Albert Bridge, has 
been established (12 M. from Sydney). A road runs hence S. W. 12-14 
M. to Marion Bridge, a Scottish settlement near the long and narrow 
Mira Lake. The road ascends thence along the valley of the Salmon River 
to the vicinity of Loch Uist and Loch Lomond (see page 147). 

Gabarus Bay is 8-10 M. S. W. of Louisbourg, and is a deep a«d spa- 
cious but poorly sheltered roadstead. It has a large and straggling fishing- 
settlement, near the Gabarus, Belfry, and Mii^a Lakes. 

Louisbourg' at present consists of a small hamlet occupied by fisher- 
men, whose vessels sail hence to the stormy Grand Banks. The adjacent 
country is hilly and unproductive, and contains no settlements. The har- 
bor is entered through a passage 10 fathoms deep, with a powerful white 
light on the N. E. headland, and is a capac'ous basin with 5-7 fathoms 
of water, well sheltered from any wind. On Point Rochfort, at the S. W. 
side of the harbor, are the ruins of the ancient French fortress and city. 

" The ruins of the once formidable batteries, with wide broken gaps (blown up 
by gunpowder), preFent a melancholy picture of past energy The strong and capa- 
cious magazine, once the deposit of immense quantities of munitions of war, is still 
nearly entire, but, hidden by the accumulation of earth and turf, now affords a com- 
modious shelter for flocks of peaceful sheep, which feed around the burial-ground 
where the remains of many a gallant Frenchman and patriotic Briton are deposited ; 
while beneath the clear cold wave may be seen the vast sunken ships of war, whose 
very bulk indicates the power enjoyed by the Gallic nation ere England becanie 
mistress of her colonies on the shores of tlie Western Atlantic. Desolation now sits 
with a ghastly smile around the once formidable bastions. All is silent except the 
loud reverberating ocean, as it rolls its tremendous surges along the rocky beach, or 
the bleating of the scattered sheep, as with tinkling bf Us they return in the dusky 
Folitude of eve to their singular folds.'" (Montgomery Martin.) 

" If you ever visit Louisbourg, you will observe a patch of dark greensward on 
Point Rochfort, — the site of the old burying-ground. Beneath it lie the ashes of 
hundreds of brave New-Knglanders. No monument marks the sacred spot, but the 
waves of the restless ocean, in calm or storm, sing an everlasting requiem over the 
graves of the departed heroes." (R. Brown.) 

The port of Louisbourg was called from the earliest times Hav?e d PAnglois, but 
no important settlements were made here until after the surrender of Newfoundland 
and Acadia to Great Britain, by the Treaty of Utrecht. Then the French troops and 
inhabitants evacuated Placentia (N. F.) and came to this place. In 1714 M. de St. 
Ovide de Brouillan was made Governor of Louisbourg ; and the work of building the 
fortress was begun about 1720. 



THE FORTRESS OF LOUISBOURG. Route 3S. 155 

The powerful defences of" the Dunkirk of America" were hurried to completion, 
and the people of New England " looked with awe upon the sombre walls of [>ouis- 
bourg. whose towers rose like giants above the northern seas.'" Over 30,(H)0,()00 
livres were drawn from the French royal treasury, and were expended on the ff)rti- 
fications of Louisbourjr; and numerous cargoes of huildiug-stouo were sent hither 
from France (as if Cape Breton had not enough, and little else). Fleets of New- 
England vessels bore lumber and bricks to the new fortress : and the Acadians sent 
in supplies and cattle. For more than 20 years the French government devoted 
all its energy and resources to one object, — the completion of the.-e fortifications. 
Inhabitants were drawn to the place by bounties ; and Louisbourg soon had a large 
trade with France, New England, and "the West Indies. 

The harbor was guarded by a battery of 30 28-pounders, on Goat Island ; and by 
the Grand (or Royal) Battery, which carried 30 heavy guns and raked the entrance. 
On the landward side was a deep moat and projecting bastions ; and the great 
careening-dock was opposite. The land and harbor sides of the town were defended 
by lines of ramparts and bastions, on which 80 guns were mounted; and the West 
Gate was overlooked by a battery of 16 24-pouuders. The Citadel was in the gorge 
of the King's Bastion." In the "centre of the city were the stately stone church, 
nunnery, and hospital of St. Jean de Dieu. The streets crossed each other at 
right angles, and communicated with the wharves by five gates in the harbor- 
ward wall. The fortress was in the first system of Vauban, and required a large 
garrison. 

Early in 1745 the ;M:issachusetts Legislature determined to attack Louisbourg with 
all the forces of the Province ; and Gov. Shirlej', the originator of the enterprise, 
gave the military command to Col \Vm. Pepperell. Massachusetts furnished 3,2-50 
men ; New Hampshire, 300 ; and Connecticut, 500 : and George Whitefield gave the 
motto for the army, " NH /Jespfrandum, Christo dure,''^ thus making the enterprise 
a sort of Puritan crusade. The forces were joined at Canso by Commodore Warren's 
West-India fleet, and a landing was soon effected in Gabarus Bay. The garrison con- 
sisted of 750 French veterans and 1,5U0 militia., and the assailants were "4,000 un- 
disciplined militia or voluutiers, officered by men who had, with one or two excep- 
tions, never seen a shot fired in anger all their lives, encamped in an open country, 
.... and sadly deficient in suitable artillery." The storehouses up the harbor 
were set on fire by Vaughan"s New-Hampshire men ; and the black smoke drove down 
on the Grand Battery, so greatly alarming its garrison that they spiked their guns 
and fled. The fort was occupied by the Americans and soon opened on the city. 
Fascine batteries were erected at 1,550 and 950 yards from the West Gate, and a 
breaching battery was reared at night within 250 yards of the walls. Amid the roar 
of a continual bombardment, the garrison made sorties by sea and land; and 1,500 
of the Americans were sick or wounded, 600 were kept out in the country watching 
the hostile Indians, and 200 had been lost in a di-astrous attempt at storming the 
Island Battery. Early in June, the guns of the Circular Battery were all dis- 
mounted, the King's Bastion had a breach 24 feet deep, the town had been ruined 
by a rain of bombs and red-hot balls, and the Island Battery had been rendered un- 
tenable by the American cannonade On the 15th the fleet (consisting of the Superb, 
Sunderland, Canterbury, and Princess Mary, 60 guns each ; and the Launceston, 
Chester, Lark, Mermaid, Hector, and E'tham, of 40 guns each) was drawn up off 
the harbor ; and the army was arrayed " to march with drums beating and colours 
flying to the assault of the West Gate " But Gov. Duchambon saw these ominou.s 
preparations and surrendered the works, to avoid unnecessary carnage. " As the 
troops, entering the fortress, beheld the strength of the place, their hearts for the 
first time sank within them. 'God has gone out of his way,' said tney, 'in a re- 
markable and most miraculous manner, to incline the hearts of the French to give 
up and deliver this strong city into our hand.' " Pepperell attributed his success, 
not to his artillery or the fleet of line-of-battle ships, but to the pra^-ers of New Eng- 
land, daily arising from every village in behalf of the absent anny. •' The news of 
this important victory filled New England with joy and Europe with astonishment " 
Boston and London and the chief tovrs of America and England were illuminated ; 
the batteries of London Tower fired salutes; and King George II. made Pepperell a 
baronet, and Warren a rear-admiral. (For the naval exploits, see page 149.) 

4,130 French people were sent home on a fleet of transports ; the siege-batteries 
were levelled, and 266 guns were mounted on the repaired walls; and in the follow- 
ing April the New-England troops were relieved by two regiments from Gibraltar, 
and went home, having lost nearly 1,000 men. The historian SmoUet designated 



156 Route 3S. THE FORTRESS OF LOUISBOURG. 

the capture of Louisbourg, " the most important achievement of the war of 1745 " ', 
and the authors of the " Universal History " considered it " an equivalent for all 
the successes of the French upon the Continent." The siege is minutely described 
(with maps) in Brown's " History of the Island of Cape Breton," pages 168-248. 

" That a colony like Massachusetts, at that time far from being rich or populous, 
should display such remarkable military spirit and enterprise, aided only by the 
smaller Province of New Hampshire ; that tjiey should equip both land and sea forces 
to attack a redoubtable fortress called by British officers impregnable, and on which 
the French Crown had expended immense sums ; . . . . that 4,000 rustic militia, 
whose officers were as inexperienced in war as their men, although supported by 
naval forces, should conquer the regular troops of the greatest military power of the 
age, and wrest from their hands a place of unusual strength, all appear little short 
of miracle." (Beamish Murdoch.) 

' So keenly did the French government feel the loss of Louisbourg that the great 
French Armada was sent out in 1746 to retake it and to destroj' Boston. After the 
disastrous failure of this expedition (see page 99), La Jonquiere was despatched with 
16 men-of-war and 28 other vessels, on the same errand, but was attacked by the fleets 
of Anson and Warren off Cape Finisterre, and lost 9 ships of war, 4,000 men, and 
$ 8,000,000 worth of the convoyed cargoes. In 1749 the war was ended, Louisbourg 
and Cape Breton were restored to France, and '' after four years of warfare in all 
parts of the world, after all the waste of blood and treasure, the war ended just 
•where it began." 

When war broke out again between England and France, in 1755, Louisbourg was 
blockaded by the fleet of Admiral Boscawen. England soon sent 11 liiie-of-battle 
ships, a squadron of frigates, and 50 transports, bearing 6,000 soldiers, to reduce the 
fortress ; but France was too prompt to be surprised, and held it with 17 sail of the 
line and 10,000 men. The vast English fleet got within 2 M. of Louisbourg and 
then recoiled, sailed to Halifax, and soon broke up, sending the army to New York 
and the ships to England. France then equipped fleets at Toulon and Rochfort, to 
reinforce Louisbourg ; but the Four/royant,8i, the Orpheus, 64, and other vessels 
were captured. Six men-of-war and sixteen transports reached Louisbourg, with a 
great amount of military supplies 

Great Britain now fitted out an immense fleet at Spithead, consisting of the 
Namur, 90 guns ; Royal Willicwi. 80 ; Princess Awelia, 80 ; Terrible, 74 ; the North- 
umberland, Oxford, Burford, Vanguard, Somerset, and Lancaster, 70 guns each ; 
the Dei'onshire, Bedford, Captain, and Prince Frederick, 6i each; the Pembroke, 
Kingston, York, Prince of Orange, Defiance, and Nottingham, ^0 guns each; the 
I'enturion and Sutherland, 50 each; the frigates Juno, Grammont, Nightingale, 
Hunter, Boreas, Hmd, Trent, Port Mahon, Diana, Shannon, Kennington, Scar- 
borough, Squirrel, Haivk, Beai-er, Tyloe, and Halifax ; and the fire-ships Etna and 
Lightning There were also 118 transports, carrying 13.600 men, in 17 regiments. 
Boscawen commanded the fleet, Amherst the army, and Wolfe was one of the briga- 
diers. 

This powerful anuament soon appeared off Louisbourg, and at dawn on the 8th of 
June, 1758, the British troops landed atGabarus Bay, and pushed through the fatal 
surf of Freshwater Cove, HUiid the hot fire of the French shore-batteries. After losing 
110 men they carried the entrenchments at the point of the bayonet, and the Fi-ench 
fell back on Louisbourg. The fortress had been greatly strengthened since the siege 
of 1745, and was defended by 3,400 men of the Artillery and the regiments of Yolon- 
taires Etrangers, Artois, Bourgogne, and Cambise, besides large bodies of militia and 
Indians. In the harbor were the ships-of-war, Prudent,!'^; Entreprenant, 74; 
Capricieux, 64; Celchre,M; Bienfaisant, 64; Apollon,50; Diane, S6; Arethuse, 
86; Fiddle, Sd; Echo, 3.2; Biche,i6; and C/ievre,lQ. 

Wolfe's brigade then occupied the old Lighthouse Battery, and opened fire on the 
city, the French fleet, and the Island Battery. The latter was soon cou:pletely de- 
stroyed by AVolfe's tren.endous cannonade ; and since the hai-bor was thus left 
unguarded. Gov. Drucour sank the frigates Diane, Apollon, Biche, Fidele, and 
Ckevre at its entrance. Meantime the main army was erect ng works on Green Ilill 
and opposite the Queen's and Princess's Bastions, under the fire of the French 
ramparts and ships, and annoyed on the rear by the Indians Dui'ing a bloody 
sortie by the French, the Earl of Dundonald and many of the Grenadiers were 
killed. The heavy siege-batteries were advanced rapidly, and poured in a crushing 
fire on the doomed city, destroying the Citadel, the West Gate, and the barracks. 
The magazine of the Entrtpre'nant, 74, blew up, and the Capricieux and Celcbre, 



THE FORTRESS OF LOUISBOURG. Route 3S. 157 

catching the fii-e in their stiils, were burned at their moorings. The Arelliuse and 
Eciio ran out of the harbor in foggy weather, but the latter was captured. Only 
two French frigates remained, and these were both captured by boats from the fleet, 
after a daring attack. On the '26th of July the Chevalier de Drucour surrendered 
the city, with o,<537 men, 233 pieces of artillery, and immense amounts of stores and 
supplies. The French had lost about l.OOi) men, the British nearly 600, during the 
siege 

All England rang with the tidings of the fall of" the Dunkirkof America," special 
prayers and thanksgivings were read in all the churches of the kingdom ; and 11 
sets of colors from Louisbourg were presented to the King at Kensington P;iJace, 
whence they were borne with great pomp to St. Paul's tlathedral. Marine insurance 
on .\ngloAmerican vessels fell at once from 30 to 12 pi.-r cent, because tlie French 
privateers were driven from the western seas by the closing of their port of refuge. 

In 1759 the great Hcet and araiy of Gen. Wolfe gathered at Louisbourg and sailed 
away to the (,'onquest of Canada. Halifax was a fine naval station, and it wa.s 
deemed inexpedient to maintain a costly garrison at Louisbourg; so sappers and 
miners were sent there in the summer of 1760, and " in the short space of six months 
all the f>rtific,itions and public buildings, which had cost France 25 years of labor 
and a vast amount of money, were utterly demolished, — the walls and glacis levelled 
into the ditch, — leaving, in fact, nothing to mark their former situation but heaps 
of stones and rubbish. Nothing was left standing but the private houses, which 
had been rent and shattered during the siege, the hospital, and a barrack capable 

of lodging 300 men All the artillery, ammunition, stores, implements, — in 

short, everything of the slightest value, even the hewn stones- which had decorated 
the public buildings, were transported to Ila'.ifax.'' 

The British garrison was withdrawn in 1738, and after the foundation of Sydney 
" the most splendid town of La Nouvelle France " was completely deserted by its 
people. 

During some years past a scheme has been agitated whose fulfilment would 
restore Louisbourg to more than its firmer importance. It is proposed to construct 
a first-class railway from this point to some station on the Pictou Branch of the 
Intercolonial Railway, crossing the Strait of Canso either by a lofty suspension- 
bridge or a steam ferry-boat on which the trains .vould be carried. It is thought 
that the freight and pissenger receipts from the coal-mines and the settlements on 
the territory traversed would more than defray tae cost of construction and mainte- 
nance. The projectors then intend to make Louisbourg a port of call for the ocean- 
steamships, for whose u.^^e this safe and afce.«sible harbor is peculiarly adapted. This 
port is on the 60th parallel of W. longitude, and is 11 degrees E of Boston and 14 de- 
grees E. of New York, or so much farther advanced on the route to Europe. Whea 
the through railway is completed to Boston, Montreal, and New York, it is thought 
that most of the better class, at least, of transatlantic travellers would prefer to save 
time and nearly 1,000 M of ocean-voyaging, by leaving or taking the steamship 
here. Extensive surveys have already been made in this vicinity, and real estate 
in Louisbourg has rapidly advanced in value. 



" Baddeck was settled by Scotch Royalists, principally from the Highlands and the 
islands of Mull, Lewis, and Skye. The people are proud of their descent, and still 
keep up many of their ancient cu-toms. Gaehc is yet the common language among 
those living in the back country, and, while nearly everybody understands it to some 
extent, there are many who cannot speak English. Every Sunday services are held 
in Gaelic, which are very interesting, — the singing especially is wild and thrill- 
ing. Once a year the annual ' J-cotcli Gathering ' takes place at Baddeck, and the 
various clans gather in all their forces, and for one day the quiet little village is full 
of excitement. ) he sounds of the fiddle and bagpipe are heai-d in every direction, 
and on wooden platforms the lads and lasses, with solemn visages, go through their 
flings in sets of four or eight. . . . The people raise very little grain or corn, but 
potatoes thrive. Strawberries ripen the latter fjart of July, and last until the mid- 
dle of August, when raspberries take their place. Some years they have very good 
apples in the last of September. The walks and drives through the country are very 
interesting, not only from the beauty of the scenery, but also for the insight into 
the quaint, old-fashioned homes of the descendants of the Highlanders. They show 
true Scotch hospitality, will not take pay for food or drink, but ask you in their 
houses, and say ' plea.se yourself, mon,' with everything inside, and if you desire to 
purchase anything will ask five times its value." (Chandler.) 



158 Route 39. ST. ANNE'S BAY. 



39. The North Shore of Cape Breton. — St Anne's Bay and 
St. Paul's Island. 

Conve3"ance.s may be hired at Rnddeck (see page 162) by which to visit 
St. Anne's The distance is about 10 M. to the head of the harbor. The 
first part of the way leads along the shores of Baddeck Bay, with the 
promontory of Red Head over the water to the r. The road then crosses a 
cold district of denuded highlands, and descends to the * Valley of St. Anne. 
As the harbor is approached, the traveller can see the amphitheatrical 
glens in which the great Holy Fairs or annual religious communions of 
the people are held. These quaint Presbyterian camp-meetings are said 
to be a relic of the ancient churches in the Scottish Highlands. The 
shores of the harbor were occupied in 1820 by immigrants from the High- 
lands, who are now well located on comfortable farms. The road follows 
the S. Arm, and to the 1. is seen the N. Arm, winding away among the 
tall mountains. Just E. of the N. Ai-m is St. Anne's Mt. which is 1,070 ft. 
high, and pushes forward cliffs 960 ft. high nearly to the water's edge. 

" There is no ride on the continent, of the kind, so full of picturesque 
beauty and constant surprises as this around the indentations of St. Anne's 
harbor. High bluffs, bold shores, exquisite sea-views, mountainous ranges, 
delicious air," are found here in abundance. About opposite the light- 
house on the bar, at the mouth of the harbor, is Old Fort Pclnt, on which 
the French batteries were est blished. Near this point is the hamlet of 
Englishtoion, chiefly interesting as containing the grave of the once famous 
" Nova-Scotia Giant." The mountains back of Englishtown are over 
1,000 ft. high, and run N. E. to Cape Dauphin, whence they repel the sea. 
Imray^s Sailing Di7-ections states that " on the N. side the land is very 
high, and ships-of-war may lie so near the shore that a water-hose may 
reach the fresh water." As to the harbor, the ancient description of 
Charlevoix still holds good: — 

" Port Ste. Anne, as already stated, has before it a very sure roadstead between 
the Cibou Islands. The port is almost completely closed by a tongue of land, leav- 
ing passage for only a single ship. This port, thus closed, is nearly two leagues in 
circuit, and is oval in form. Ships can everywliere approach the land, and scarcely 
perceive the winds, on account of its high banks and the surrounding niountnins. 
.... The fishing is very abundant ; great quantities of good wood are found there, 
8uch as maple, beech, wild cherry, and especially oaks vei-y suitable for building 
and masts, being 28-38 ft high ; marble is common ; most of the land good, — in 
Great and Little Labrador, which are only a league and a half off, the soil is very 
fertile, and it can contain a very large number of settlers." 

In St. Anne's Bay the English ship Clianreivfil was wrecked in 1597, and while 
she lay aground " there came aboord many shallops with store of French men, who 
robbed and spoyled all they could lay their hands on, pillaging the poore men eueu 
to their very shirts, and vsing them in sauage manner; whereas they eliould rather 
as Christians haue aided them in tliat distresse." In 1629 this liarbor was occupied 
by the Great St. Anrfrew and the Marguerite, armed vessels of France, whose crews, 
together with their English prisoners, constructed a fort to command the entrance. 
It was armed with 8 cannon, 1,800 pounds of powder, pikes, and muskets, and was 
garrisoned by 40 men. The connnander of the fleet raised the arms of the King and 
of Cardinal Richelieu over its walls, and erected a chapel, for whose care he left two 



INGONISH. Route 39. 159 

Jesuits. He then named the harbor St. Anne's. Before the close of that winter 
more than one thinl of the troops died of the scurvy, and the commandant assas- 
sinated his Ueutfuaiit on the pamde-ground. In 1634 the Jesuits founded an In- 
dian iiiissiou here, but both this and tiie garrison were afterwards withdrawn. Some 
years later a new battery and settlement were erected here by Nicholas Denys,Sieur 
de Fronsac, who tnuled hence with the Indians of the N of (.'ape Breton. 

The valley of tlie N. Arm of St. Anne's was granted, in 1713, to M. de Rouville, 
a captain in the infantry of France, and brother of that Ilertel de Rouville who led 
the forces that destroyed Schenectady, Deerfield, and Haverhill. The N. Arm was 
long called Rouvilk"s River. At a later day Costabelle, Beaucourt, Soubras, and 
other French officers had fishing-stations on the bay. In 17-15 a frigate from Com. 
Warren's fleet (tlien blockading Louisbourg) entered the harbor, and destroyed all 
the property on its shores. St. .June's Bay was afterwards called Port Dauphin by 
the French, and the government long hesitated as to whether the chief fortress of 
Cape Breton should be located here or at Louisbourg. The perfect security of the 
harbor afforded a stro ig argument iii favor of St. Anne's, and it seemed capable of 
being made impregnable at slight expense. After the foundation of Louisbourg 1,000 
cords of wood were sent to that r>Uice annually from St. Anne's. 

The road from the Bras d'Or to the N. shore of Cape Breton diverges 
from the St. Anne road before reaching the iiarbor, and bears to the N. E., 
along the W. Branch. It rounds the North-River Valle}'- by a great curve, 
and then sweeos up the harbor-shore, under the imposing cliffs of St. 
Anne's Mt. From St. Anne's to Ingonish the distance is about 40 M., by 
a remarkably picturesque road between the mountains and the Atlant'c, 
on a narrow plain, which recalls Byron's lines: — 

*' The mountains look on Marathon, 
And Marathon looks on the sea." 

" Grand and very beautiful are the rocky gorges and ravines which furrow the 
hills and precipices between St. Anne's and Ingonish Equally grand and pic- 
turesque is the red syenitic escarpment of Smoky Cape, capped with the cloud 
from which it derives its name, with many a lofty headland in the background, 
and the peak of the Sugar-loaf Mountain just peeping above the far-distant hori- 
zon." (Brown.) 

The proud headland of Cape Smoky (the Ccqi Enfunie of the p'rench) is 
950 ft. high, and runs sheer down into the sea. To the W. there are peaks 
1,200-1,300 ft. high; and as the road bends around the deep bights to the 
N., it passes under summits more than 1,400 ft. high. Among these mas- 
sive hills, and facing Cape Smoky, is the village of Ingonisli, inhabited by 
Scottish Catholic fishermen, 800 of whom are found in this district. On 
the island that shelters the harbor is a fixed white light, 237 ft. above the 
sea, and visible for 15 M. 

Ingonish was one of tlie early stations of the French. In 1729 a great church wa.«i 
built here, whose foundations only remain now ; and in 1849 a church-bell, marked 
St. Malo, 17*29, and weighing 200 pounds, wa.s found buried in the sands of the 
beach. The settlement here was probably ruined by the drawing away of its people 
to aid in holding Louisbourg against the Anglo-American forces. In 1740 Ingonish 
was the second town on the island, and its tleet caught 13,560 quintals of fish. It 
was destroyed, in 1745, by men-of-war from Com, Warren's tleet. 

The highland region back of Ingonish has ahvays been famous for its abundance 
of game, especially of moose and cariljou. In the winter of 1789 over 9,000 moose 
were killed here for the sake of their skins, which brought ten shillings each ; and 
for many years this wholesale slaugliter went on, and vessels knew when they were 
approaching the N. shore of Cape Breton by the odor of decaying carcasses which 
came from the shor-;. Finally the outraged laws of the Province were vindicated by 
the occupation of Ingonish by a body of troops, whose duty jt was to restrain th« 



160 Route 39. ST. PAUL'S ISLAND. 

moose-hunters at whatever cost. Of late years the moose have been nearly exter- 
minated by city sportsmen ant! by the Indians, who kill them while helplessly en- 
tangled in the deep snow-drifts. The scenery between Baddeck and Ingonish 
resembles that of the North of Scotland, but is even more picturesque. Many 
officers from the Halifax garrison have sought its moose and trout. 

The highway ends at Ingonish, and a trail crosses the mountains to the 
N. N. W. to Aspy Bay, an open bight of the sea, into which several large 
lagoons empty. A specie-ship was wrecked off tnis bay early in the pres- 
ent century, and for many years coins were thrown ashore during heavy 
storms. In 1856 the first Atlantic Cable was landed here. On the N. W. 
shore of Aspy Bay is the loft}' Sugar-loaf Mt., beyond which Cape North 
runs out to the N. E., 1,000 ft. high. Cape North is 8 M. S. E. by E. from 
Cape St. Lawrence, and between these two points is the St. Laiorence Bay, 
on whose remote shores are about 400 inhabitants, while about Cape North 
ai-e nearly 800 more. Between Cape North and Cape Ray, Newfoundland, 
the distance is 55 M., and through this wide strait is the middle entrance 
to the Gulf of St. Lawrence. 

St. PauVs Island. 

St. Paul's Island is 13 M. E. N. E. of Cape North, and is a vast mass of 
rock, 3 M. long and 1 M. wide, bearing three peaks 500 ft. high, sur- 
rounded by tall cliffs which reach far below the water, and indented by 
the Trinity and Atlantic Coves. The cod, mackerel, and seal fisheries 
around the island are very valuable; and the adjacent waters are of great 
depth, and form a constant current to the S. E. St. Paul's Island has 9 
inhabitants; a fixed white light (visible for 20 M.) on the N. point; a pro- 
vision depot for wrecked sailors in Trinity Cove; a steam fog-whistle in 
Atlantic Cove ; and on the S. point a revolving white light of the first 
class, visible for 20 M. 

This island has been one of the most fatal points on the Atlantic coast, stretching, 
as it does, across such an important route of marine travel. Thousands of lives have 
been lost here, and human bones formerly strewed the beaches, while anchors, 
chains, and other relics of disaster were found in the neighboring waters. The 
Acadians of Cheticamp used to visit the island every spring, in order to secure the 
valuable parts of cargoes and wrecks which the sea threw up on the shore. Among 
the largest of the vessels lost here were the Horatio, Canada, Duncan, Venus, a 
transport with 200 soldiers (all drowned), the ocean-steamship Noncegian, and the 
ship Jessie. The latter was wrecked in mid-winter, and 80 of her people were lost ; 
but 11 reached the shore, and wandered about until they were all frozen to death. 
With the present system of lights, whistles, and cannon, most of the danger of this 
island is removed. 

"A dome of inhospitable rock peers through the mist, one of nature's peniten- 
tiaries, which no living man would own, and so has been deeded to St. Paul : Melita 
is Eden to it. The saints, it appears to me, have been gifted with the rujigedest odds 
and ends. Wherever, on all tlieee cast-iron shores, there is a flinty promontory, 
upon which Pron etheus himself would have shuddered to be chained, there the 
name of an apostle has been transfixed. Yonder is Cape North, the stony arrow- 
head of Cape Breton, a headland, rather a multitudinous group of mountain head- 
lands, draped with gloomy giantleur. against the black clifl's of which the surf is 
now fii-ing its snowy rockets All in all, this is a fine termination of the pic- 
turesque isle Steep and lofty , its summits are darkened by steepled evergreens, and 
its many sides gashed with horrid fissures and ravines." (L. L. Noble.) 



THE BRAS D'OR. Route 40- IGl 



40. The Bras d'Or Lakes. {See end of page 106.) 

The "Inland Route" befn-een Siidno/ and Hnfifar. There are several 
steamers plying on the Bras d'Or, making daily trips in summer. Tliey leave Port 
Mulgrave, on the Strait of Canso, after the arrival of the Halifax mail-train, and run 
out eastward, by Isle Madame, and up St. Peter's Bay. Traversing the recently 
completed St. Peter's Canal hy St. Peter's village, the boats descend St. Peter's 
Inlet, by Chapel Island and the Micmac- Indian Reservation (for all this region, .se© 
pages 146-7), and run out into the Great Bras d'Or After visiting the various 
ports on the lakes, they round Point Aconi, and run around to Sydney dailv. The 
agent at Halifax can give particulars of sailings, etc. The construction of the rail- 
way from New Glasgow to the Strait, and of the canal, have made the Bras d'Or 
very accessible, and removed the trials which hedged about this delishtfnl trip 

The routes taken down the lakes are various. We give the old route of the Nep- 
tune^ although the usual journey now is down the Great Bras d'Or. 

After leaving the wharves of Sydney, the steamer passes up to N. Syd- 
ney, where she makes a short stop, then runs to the N. E. out of Sydney 
Harbor, with the shafts and villages of the Sydney Mines on the 1. After 
rounding Cranberry Head the course is N. W. for 8-9 M., in the ocean, 
passing the surf-beaten Bird Rock on the 1., while the stately mountains 
towards St. Anne's and Ingonish (see page 159) are seen in advance. 
When within 2-3 M. of Point Aconi the vessel turns in to the 1., and soon 
enters the strait called the * Little Bras d'Or, a narrow and river-like pas- 
sage through which the tide sweeps rapidly, and which is impassable for 
large craft. The water-view is sometimes limited to a few score feet, so 
tortuous and landlocked is the channel; and there are several small and 
picturesque hamlets on the shore, mostly inhabited by immigrants from 
the Hebrides. 

On the r. side of the channel is Boularderis Island, which is about 35 
M. long by 2-8 M. wide, and supports a small farming population. In 
1713 this rich and beautiful island was granted by the French Crown to 
i\I. de la Boularderie, an officer of the French navy, who had greatly dis- 
tinguished himself in the defence of Port Royal and of Placentia. It is 
now occupied by Highlanders, who number about 1,300, and have several 
small hamlets. On the N. end of the island is the coal-field of Point Aconi, 
which has not been operated for several years. 

The * Great Bras d'Or is the channel on the W. side of Boularderie, and 
is always used by ships and large coasters bound into the lakes. It has 
from 5 to 38 fathoTis of water, and is much grander in scenery than is the 
E. channel. The lake-steamers usually traverse this strait, rounding Point 
Aconi, and approaching the sea-repelling mountains of St. Anne's and 
Ingonish. On the N. are seen the Ciboux Islands, sheltering St. Anne's 
ii.iy (see page 158), and marked by a revolving red-and-white light, which 
is visible for 14 ^I. On the r. the dark and wind-swept Cape Dauphin is 
approached, terminating, in a peak 1,045 ft. high, the massive ridge which 
occupies the peninsula of St. Anne. Beyond the lighthouse on Black Rock 
Point (1. side), the steimer passes through a strait ^ M. wide, and then 
enters the Great Bras d'Or, which is 1-3 I\I. wide, and is followed to the 

K 



162 Route 40. BADDECK. 

S. W. for nearly 30 M., between the mountains of St. Anne and the high- 
lands of Boularderie. 

The Neptune soon traverses the narrow channel of the Little Bras d'Or 
and enters a broader bay. Beyond Grove Point it reaches a beautiful 
sound Avhich is followed for 25 M., and is 3-4 M. wide. (It is called St. 
Andreio's Channel on the Admiralty charts, but that name is elsewhere ap- 
plied to the East Bay.) Near George Mt., on the 1., are the low shores of 
Long Island ; and the steamer sometimes stops off Beaver Harbor, or Bois- 
dale. The course is now laid towards the W. shore, rounds Kempt Head, 
the S. extremity of Boularderie Island, and passes Coffin Island on the r., 
beyond which is seen the long channel of the Great Bras d'Or. The course 
is nearly N. W., and lies between Red Head (r. side) and Mackay Point (1. 
side), which are about 3 M. apart. In front is seen the village of Baddeck, 
while inside of the points Baddeck Bay extends to the r. and St. Patrick's 
Channel to the 1. 

Badieck ( Telegraph House ; Lock Rae House ; McLean House) is the 
capital of Victoria County, and the chief villnge on the Bras d'Or. It has 
four churches, a court-house, and a government building, and is the centre 
of a group of farming-settlements. The harbor can accommodate vessels of 
500 tons, and from this point several cargoes of produce are annually sent 
to Newfoundlasid. 

This locality was first visited by the French, from whom it received the 
name Bedtqzie, since Scotticized to Baddeck [accent on the last syllable). 
It was first settled by the disbanded soldiers of the Royal Rangers, and in 
1793 there were 10 inhabitants here. Near the village are the summer- 
homes of Prof. A. G. Bell, of Washington, and George Kennan, the Sibe- 
rian traveller. 

" Although it was Sunday, I could not but notice that Baddeck was a ciean- 
looking Tillage of white wooden hou?es, of perhaps 7 800 inhabitants ; that ifc 
stretched along the shore for a mile or more, straggling off into farm-houses at each 
end, lying for the most part on the sloping curve of the bay. There were a few 
country-looking stores and shops, and on the shore three or four rather decayed 
and shaky wharves ran into the water, and a few schooners lay at anchor near 
them ; and the usual decaying warehouses leaned about the docks. A peaceful and 
perhaps a thriving place, but not a bustling place 

" Having attributed the quiet of Baddeck on Sunday to religion, we did not know 
to what to lay the quiet on Monday. But its peacefulness continued. I have no 
doubt that the farmers began to farm, and the traders to trade, and the sailors to 
sail ; but the tourist felt that he had come into a place of rest. The promise of the 
red sky the evening before was fulfilled in another royal day. There was an inspira- 
tion in the air that one looks for rather in the mountains than on the sea-coast, it 
seemed like some new and gentle compound of sea-air and land-air, which was the 
jiertcction of breathing material. In this atmosphere, which seems to flow over all 
those Atlantic isles at tliis f-eason. one endures a great deal of exercise with little 
fati.;ue; or he is content to sit still and has no feeling of sluggishness. Mere living 
i- a kind of hapjiino'^s, and the easv-going tniveller is satisfied with little to do and 
less to M'O. Let the reader not nndcrst.-iml that we are recommending him to go to 

Ha \i\v(k. Far from it There; are few whom it would pay to go a thousand 

nMic-; for the sake of .sitting on the dock at Badileck when the sun goes down, and 
warching the purple lights on the islands and the distinit hills, the red flush on the 
horizon and on the lake, and the creeping on of gray twilight. You can see all this 
as well elsewhere ? I am not so sure. There is a harmonv of be'uitv about the 
Cr.i-i d'Or at Baddeck which is lacking in many scenes of more pretension.' 
vOharles Dudley Warner's Baddeck; and that Sort of Thing.) 



lUDDECK. Route 40. 163 

The tourist who stops at Baddeck should visit the Indian village which 
nccup-es a grap<;y point near the town. It pertains to one of the clans of 
the Micmac tribo, and usually has 12-15 wigwams. Visitors are received 
with a not unkindly indilFerence, and may here study Indian domestic 
life, the curious manner of carrying babies, and the architecture of the 
wigwam. Some of the people can talk English. The visitor should en- 
deavor to see one of the Miv^mac Catholic prayer-books, printed (at Vienna) 
in a singular hieroglyphic, and bought by the hidians at the Trappist mon- 
astery in Tracadie. The camp at Baddeck is broken up in the autumn 
and the people retire to their reservations near t!ie hunting-grounds. 

The Micmacs of Nova Scotia and Cape Breton still retain many of their ancient 
customs, and are of purer blood than any other tribe on the Atlantic coast. They 
number about 1,600 (and 1,400 in New Brunswick), and occupy several reservations 
in the Province, where they aie cared for and protected by the Dominion gtvtrn- 
nicnt. Under this paternal care (stronijly contrasting with the Indian polic\ of the 
United States) the aborigines are steadily increasing in numbers and approaching a 
better standard of civilixition, and are loyal and useful subjects of their " great 
mother,"' Queen Victoria. The discipline of families is well preserved by the use of 
corporeal punishment. Warm parental affection is a strongly marked feature, and 
the subordination of the women is still maintained, though amelior.ited by the in- 
fluences of civilization. The Micmacs have exchanged their former belief in and 
■worship of the hostile principles of good and evil for the creed of the Roman Cath- 
ohc Church, of which they are devout communicants. 

Their language has many curious verbal coincidences with that of the Gaelic race, 
and is said to be " copious, tie.xible, and expressive '" Philologists have also traced 
a marked analogy between the Greek and Micmac languages, basing thereon a sharp 
rebuke to Kenan's flippant attack on the aboriginal tongues of America. 

Baddeck to Whycocomagh, see Route 41. Baddeck to St. Anne's Bay, 
see Route 39. A road runs from this point nearly N. for 10 M. to the 
forks of the Big Baddeck River, where trout are found. To the N. are 
the Baddeck Mts., an unexplored and savage highland region which ex- 
tends for 100 M. to the N., as far as Cape North, with a breadth of 15-25 
M. This mountain-region has been a lavoriie hunting-ground for moose 
and caribou, which are now carefully preserved by Provincial game-laws; 
and it also contains bears, wolves and foxes, rabbits and hares, beaver, 
mink, and muskrats. 

The Baddeck Falls, on the north fork of the Big Baddeck River, reached 
by a pleasant drive of about 10 M., are ver}' beautiful, and have been com- 
pared with the Crystal Cascade in the White Mts. Thev are situated in a 
narrow gorge, whose precipitous sides are high enough to give an idea of 
grandeur as well as pitturesqueness. 

Tlie Margaree River may be reached from Baddeck (in 28 M.) by a 
picturesque road, ascending the long valley, and crossing the Himter's 
Mt., Avith fine views over the Bras d'Or. The pleasant rural district of 
the Middle Valley is then traversed, and the road leads through a remark- 
able pass of the hills and enters the rich valley of the JNlargaree, famons 
for its fishing (see Route 42). Visitors to this district usually board in 
the farm-houses, where plain and substantial fare is given. 

The Middle River lies to the W. of Baddeck, an.l is approached by the Whyco- 
comagh road (Route 41). The vallev has over 1,0 inhiibitauts, of Gaelic High- 
land race, many of whom are unajcquamted with t. e Engli.-h language. Near their 
2e tlements are prolific trout-streams, -where fine sport may be enjoyed in the early 
stimipp'-. The chief settlements aie respectively 12, 13, and 16 M. from Baddeck, 
-"nd near the head of the ri er is an undeveloped gold district. A few miles up this 



164 Route 40. THE BRAS D'OR. 

rirer is " a Gaelic settlement of farmers. The river here flows through lovely mead- 
ows, sandy, fertile, and sheltered by hills, — a green Eden, one of the few peaceful 
inhabited'spots in the world. I could conceive of no news coming to these High- 
landers later than the defeat of the Pretender. " 

In 1801 the total population of the Island of Cape Breton was 2,513, including 
Englishmen, Acadians, and Micmacs. In 1802 the first emigrant-ship arrived at 
Sydney from Scotland, and since that time over 25,000 Scottish immigrants have 
landed and settled on this island. They rapidly spread over the W. coast and occu- 
pied the shores of the l>ras d"Or and its connected waters, and Cape Breton is now, 
and probably will ever be, a Scottish land. After the dispersal of the Highland clans 
and the final pacification of Northern Scotland, the chieftains and nobles found it 
more profitable to devote their estates to cattle-raising than to maintain the old ten- 
antry system. So thousands of poor tenant-farmers were expelled from their hold- 
ings and their .ancient homes to make room for deer-parks or she<>p-farms among 
the glens. Driven forth against their will, they crossed the Atlantic to settle on 
the New- World shores, in a fairer but less honored land. The selfish policy of the 
powerful nobles depopulated broad districts of the Highlands. " Many who had 
friends in the colonies, and knew what they had to expect, emigrated with great 
alacrity ; but thousands, who had no such desire on the contrary the greatest 
repugnance to leave the land of their fathers, the familiar hills, and the green 
elopes of Lochaber, were heart-broken at the idea of being separated from them by 
a thousand leagues of raging sea." This hardy rural population is peculiarly adapted 
to develop a new country like Cape Breton, and can also endure the great fluctu- 
ations of the climate, wliich range from 32° below zero to 96° above. The descend- 
ants of these immigrants are superior to the native Highlanders, both phy.'ically 
and mentally, and pay more attention to the education of their children and to the 
general estate of the nation 

On leaving Baddeck the steamer runs out around Mackay's Point, and 
ascends the ^ Lit tit. Bras cV Or Lake, to the S. W. This sheet of water is 
5-6 M. wide, and is bordered on the E. by the peninsula of St. Andrew 
and the hills back of Sunacadie and Christmas Island, and on the W. by 
the highlands of the Watchabaktchkt peninsula. 

'* The most electric American, heir of all the nervous diseases of all the 
ages, could not but find peace in this scene of tranquil beauty, and sail 
on into a great and deepening contentment. Would the voyage could last 
for an age, with the same sparkling but tranquil sea, and the same en- 
vironmeut of hills, near and remote. The hills approached and fell away 
in lines of undulating grace, draped with a tender color which helped to 
carry the imagination beyond the earth. 

'• Certainly, as we glided out upon the summer waters and began to 
get the graceful outline of the widening shores, it seemed as if we hnd 

taken passage to the Fortunate Isle? It was enough to sit on deck 

forward of the wheel-house, and absorb, by all the senses, the deliciims 
day. With such weather perpetual and such scenery always present, sin in 
this world would soon become an impossibility." {Wa^.'SKH's Biidihck..) 

The picturesque Grand Narrows, 15 M. from Baddeck, and 2 M. long 
by 1 M wide, are also called the Strait of Bnrra. its slioies being peopled 
by Campbells and McNeils, from Barra, in tiie Hebrides. 

The railwav crosses here on a six-span steel bridge, which cost $750,000. 

The steamer now enters the * Great Bras d'Or Lake, a noble exp:iii.-e 
of water with a depth of from 15 to 57 fathoms.' It is difficult to state it-j 



THE BRAS D'OR. Route JfO. 1G5 

size, on account of the numerous deep bays, but from tlie Strait of Barra 
to tlie S. shore it is IS M. Ions; (N. and S.), and from Malaga wdatchkt it is 
nearly 20 M. (E. and W.). From the head of West Bay to the head of 
East Bay, a vessel could sail in a tstraight course nearly 50 M. 

" The Bras d"Or is the most beautiful salt-water lake I have ever seen, and more 

beautiful than we had imagineil a body of salt water could be Tiie water seeks 

out all the low places, aud ramifies tiie interior, ruuninj;; away into lovely bays and 
lagoons, leaving slender tongues of land and picturesque islands, aud briu.tring into 
the recesses of the land, to the remote country farms and settlements the Havor of 
salt, and the fish and mollusks of the briny sea. There is very little tide at any 
time, so that the shores are clean and sightly for the most part, like those of a fresh- 
water i:ike. It has all the pleasantness of a fresh water lake, with all the advan- 
tages of a salt one. In the streams which run into it are the speckled trout, the 
shad, and the salmon ; out of its depths are hooked the cod and the mackerel, and 
in its bays fatten the oyster. This irregular lake !■* about 100 M. long, if you meas- 
ure it skilfully, and in some places 10 M. broad ; but so indented is it, that I am 
not sure but one would need, as we were infoi-med, to ride 1,000 M. to go round it, 
following all its incursions into the land. The hills around it are never mere than 
5 - 600 ft. high, but they are high enough for reposeful beauty, and offer everywhere 
pleasing lines."' (Warner's Baddeck ) 

Soon after passing the Strait of Barra the broad estuary of the River 
Dtnys is seen on the r. Deep ship-channels may be followed thither, pass- 
ing at first through a cluster of islets, and then into the North Basin, 
whence the Portage Inlet runs N. to within^ M. of the Whycocomagh 
Basin. The Inner Basin is 7 M. long and 2-3 M. wMe, and is sometimes 
visited by ships, which load here with lumber for England. The River 
Denys debouches into the S. W. angle of this basin. There are five ham- 
lets of from 150 to 300 inhabitants each, situated on the basins and the 
river, most of the people being from the Western Isles of Scotland. 

The ancient Indian name for the Br;isd"Or was Bidf.niiboch; St. Patrick's Channel 
was called Ouamecli ; the River-Denys Basin, Mirminigvasli ; the West Bay, Paque- 
lacadie : and the East Bay, Piscnboua>>k. For the convenience of trading with the 
numerous Indians who inhabited these shores, M. Denys established his forts at St. 
Peter's and St. Anne's ; but there is no record of settlements by the French on the 
lakes. The chief seat of the Indians is now on the shore where 

" Escasonis fountains 
Pour down their crystal tide. ' 

The beautiful basin and river of Denys were named in honor of their discoverer, 
Nicholas Denys, Sieur de Fronsac, who was appointed by King Louis, in 1654, 
" Uoveuior and Lieutenant-General " of Cape Breton and the adjacent shores. 

When the steamer is about 4 M. from the Strait of Barra, Benacadie 
Point is seen on the 1., 7-8 M. distant, below which is the great opening 
of the East Bay or St. Andrew's Channel, running in to the N. E. for 
nearly 25 M. (see page 147). 10- 12 M. below the strait is the open ng of 
the long and sinuous harbor of Mcdagaiodatchkf, which approaches the 
marble formations of the western highlands, and has a village of 350 in- 
iiabitants. To the S E. are the islands off' St. Peter's Inlet. 

Opening away on the right is the S. W. arm of the Great Bras d'Or, 
which is called the West Bay, or St. Gi-ovf^e's Channel, and is about 15 M. 
long and 7 M. wide. It contains numerous inlands, aud is separated from 



166 Route 40. THE BRAS D'OR. 

the River-Denys Basin by a range of massive highlands on the N. The 
N. shore hills are 700 - 770 ft. high, and those on the S. shore are 250 - 620 
ft. high. The shores are thinly inhabited. 

" The only other thing of note the Bras d'Or offered us before we reached West 
Bay was the finest show of medusse or jelly-fish that could be produced. At first 
there were dozens of these disk-shaped transparent creatures, and then hundreds, 
starring the water like marguerites sprinkled on a meadow, and of sizes from that 
of a teacup to a dinner-plate. We soon ran into a school of them, a convention, a 
herd as extensive as the vast buffalo droves on the plains, a collection as thick as 
clover-blossoms in a field in June, miles of them apparently ; and at length the boat 
had to push its way through a mass of them which covered the water lil^e the leaves 
of the pond-lily, and filled the deeps far down with their beautiful contracting and 
expanding forms I did not suppose there were so many jelly-fishes in all the world." 
(Warner's Badderk.) 

"The scenery of the lakes is exceedingly striking and diversified. Long rocky 
cliffs and escarpments rise in some places abruptly from the water's edge ; in others, 
undulating or rolling hills predominate, fringed on the shores by low white cliffs of 
gypsum or red conglomerate ; whilst the deep basins and channels, which branch 
off in all directions from the central expanse of waters, studded with innumerable 
islets covered with a rich growth of spruce and hemlock, present views the most 
picturesque and diversified imaginable " (Bro^n.) 

" So wide is it, and so indented by broad bays and deep coves, that a coasting 
journey around it is equal in extent to a voyage across the Atlantic. Besides the 
distant mountains that rise proudly from the remote shores, there are many noble 
islands in its expanse, and forest-covered peninsulas, bordered with beaches of glit- 
tering white pebbles. But over all this wide landscape there broods a spirit of 
primeval solitude For, strange as it may seem, the Golden Arm is a very use- 
less piece of water in this part of the world ; highly favored as it is by nature, land- 
locked, deep enough for vessels of all burden, easy of access on the Gulf side, free 
from fogs, and only separated from the ocean at its southern end by a narrow strip of 
land, about % M. wide ; abounding in timber, coal, and gypsum, and valuable for its 
fisheries, especially in winter, yet the Bras d'Or is undeveloped for want of that 
element which seems to be alien to the Colonies, namely, enterprise.'^ (Cozzens.) 

" The climate of Baddeck in summer is delightful, the nights being always cooi 
and the heat of the day never oppressive ; on only one occasion last July did the 
thermometer indicate 80°. The air has a life and an elasticity in it unknown in 
lower latitudes during the summer months. . . . The water-view is one of the finest 
to be found on the Atlantic coast. The clear blue waters of the Bras d'Or, here seven 
or eight miles wide, are apparently hemmed in by ranges of mountains, which in 
some places rise abruptly from the water in lofty cliffs of plaster or gypsum, worn 
by the action of water into strange and fantastic forms. These white cliffs, fringed 
%\"ith dark evergreens, form, with the red conglomerate and bright green fields 
stretching down to the water's edge, a most beautiful picture, which is appro- 
priately framed with long lines of mountains. The Bras d'Or, though an arm of 
the sea, has here a tiiie of only from six to eighteen inches, so that those fond of 
aquatic' pursuits are not burdeneil with a he;i(l current when homeward bound." 

Cape Breton Cownec^j'ows. —The steamboat Binrion leaves Sydney on Mondays, 
Wcdiiesd<\.-, an I Fridays, calling at Eoulardarie, Baddeck. (^r.-niit Narrows, St. 
Peters, and Gr.ndKiue Ferry, connectiug with the train. Returning, it leaves 
i\Julg-ave on ai rival of train, for Sidney, catling at above points, and connect- 
insr w:th steamer Magnolia at r.addf-ck. for W hycocomagh and Little Narrows, 

The steamboat Nf-ptune leaves Mulgrave on Mondays, Wednesdays, and Fridays, 
on arrival of the train, for East Bay, calling at Grandique Ferry and St. Peters. 
Returning in time to connect with the train. 

The steamship Rimouski leaves Mulgrave every Monday and Friday, for Ari- 
chat and Canso ; Tuesdays and Thursdays, for Port Hood ; W ednesdays and Satur- 
days, for Guysboro'. Returni g the following mornings, to connect with train. 

The Cape-Breton Railway runs from the Strait of Canso along the W. side of the 
Island to Grand N.arrows, i3oisdale, North Sydney, and Sydney. 'I he train leaves 
Point Tupper, connected bv ferry ^ith Mulgi-nve ; and near Orangedale, 7 M. 
from Whycocomagh, comes in sight of the Bras d'Or, which is followed for 40 M. 



ST. PATRICK'S CHANNEL. RouLc 4I. 1G7 

41. Baddeck to Mabou and Port Hood. — St. Patrick's 
Channel and Wliycocomagh. 

This route is traversed by the Royal mail-stage, leaving Baddeck at noon, and 
renohing W'hycoromagh after 4 o'clock, "nd Mabou at 9. The distance is oO M. 

The loute now is on leaving Haddock along the shore road for 6 M., within a 
stone's throw of the waters of St Patrick's channel, and part of that distance the 
edge of the road is lapped by its waters. 

Mr. Warner thus describes the road between Whycocomagh and Baddeck: " From 
the time we first struck the Bras d'Or for thirty miles we rode in constant. sight of 
its magnificent water. Now we were two hundred feet above the water, on the hill- 
side skirting a point or following an indentation ; and now we were diving into a 
narrow valley, crossing a stream, or turning a sharp corner, but always with the 
Bras d'Or in view, the afternoon sun shining on it, softening the outlines of its em- 
bracing hills, casting a shadow from its wooded islands Sometimes we opened upon 
a broad water plain bounded by the W'atchabaktchkt hills, and again we looked over 
hill after hill receding into the soft and hazy blue of the laud beyond the great mass 
of the Bras d'Or The reader can compare the view and the ride to the Bay of 
Naples and the Cornice Road ; we did nothing of the sort ; we held on to the seat, 
prayed that the harness of the pony might not break, and gave constant expression 
to our wonder and delight.'' 

St. Patrick's Channel is 20 M. long by 1-3 M, wide, apd is made 
highly picturesque by its deep coves, wooded points, and lofty shores. Its 
general course is followed by the highway, affording rich views from some 
of the higher grades. After leaving Baddeck the road strikes across the 
country for about 5 M. to the Baddeck River, in whose upper waters are 
large trout. Beyond this point the road swings around the blue expanse 
of Indian Bay, approaching a bold hill-range 650 ft. high, and crosses the 
^liddle River, at whose mouth is an Indian reservation. Frequent glimpses 
are afforded of St. Patrick's Channel, well to the 1. acrosrs the green mead- 
ows. A range of lofty heights now forces the road nearer to the water, 
and it passes within 2 M. of the remarkable strait known as the Little 
A7ovo?t".«, about which there are 150 inhabitants, 

A road leads N. W. 5 M into Ainslie Glen, and to the great Aiiislie L,ak:e, 

which covers 25 square miles, and is the source of the Margaree River Its shores 
are broken and rugged, and are occupied by a hardy population of Highlanders. 
Petroleum springs have been found in this vicinity (see page 169). 

Beyond the Little Narrows is a magnificent basin, 15 M. long and 3-5 
M. wide, into whose sequestered and forest-bound waters large ships make 
their Avay, and are here laden with timber for Europe. 

The road runs around the successive spurs of the Salt 
Jft., a massive ridge on the N. shore of the Basin, and many very attractive 
views are gained from its upper reaches. From the crest of Salt Mountain 
portions of the four counties of the island can be seen on clear davs. It 
afff)rds a magnidceiit view, and is a comparatively easy though steep climb. 
The water is of a rich blue, partly owing to its depth, which is from 3 to 
2i) fathoms. 

Whycocomagh (Bay- View Hotel) is a Scottish Presbyterian hamlet, 
situated at the N. W. angle of the Basin, and surrounded by pretty Trosach- 
like scenery. There are about 400 inhabitants in this neighborhood, 



168 Route 42. WHYCOCOMAGH. 

whence small cargoes of produce are annually shipped to Newfoundland. 

Near this point is a marble cave, with several chambers 6 - 8 ft. high ; and 

foxes are often seen among the hills. It is claimed that valuable deposits 

of magnetic and hematitic iron-ore have been found in this vicinity. 

Stages run 30 M. S. W. from Whycocomagh to Port Hastings, on the tame 

and uninteresting road known as the Victoria Line. 

" What we first saw was an inlet of the Bras d'Or, called by the driver Hogamah 
Bay. At its entrance were long, wooded islands, beyond which we saw the backs 
of graceful hills, hke the capes of sou.e pottic ^ea-coast .... A peaceful place, this 
^Vhycoconiagh. The lapsing waters of the Bras d'Or made a summer music all 
along the quiet street ; the bay lay smiling with its i lands in front, and an amphi- 
theatre of hills rose beyond." {WKRT'i-E&'ii Baddfck.) 

On leav ng Whycocomagh the quaint double peaks of Salt Mt. are seen 
in retrospective views, and the road soon enters the Skye Glen, a long, 
narrow valley, which is occupied by the Highlandei-s. The Avagon soon 
reaches the picturesque gorge of the Mnbou Valley, with the mountainous 
mass of Cape Mabou in front. The Mull River is seen on the 1., glitter- 
ing far below in the valley, and erelong the widenings of the sea are 
reached, and the traveller arrives at Mabuu. Stages to Port Hastings, see 
page 143. 

A steamboat runs from Baddeck to Whvcocomagh twice a week. This 
route is much easier for the traveller than that b}-^ the stage, and reveals as 
much natural beauty, if made during the iiours of daylight. The passage 
t)f the Little Narrows and the approach to Whycocomagh are its most 
striking phases. 

42. The West Coast of Cape Bretcn, — Port Hood and Mar- 
garee. 

The Royal mail-sta.2;e leaves Port Hastings every evening, at about 4 o'clock, after 
the arrival of the Halifax mail-train. Fare to Port Hood, 82 ; $ 1 by steamer, in 
summer. 

Distances. — Port Hastings to Low Point, 7 M. ; Creignish, 9 ; Long Point, 14 ; 
Judiqne, 18; Little Judique, 24; Port Hood, 28; Mabou, 38 ; Broad Cove Inter- 
vale, 56 ; Margaree Forks, 68 ; Margaree, 76 ; Oheticamp, 88. 

The first portion of this route is interesting, as it affords frequent pleas^ 
ant views of the Strait of Canso ai d its bright maritime processions. The 
trend of the coast is followed from Port Hastings to the N. W., and a suc- 
cession of small hamlets is seen along the bases of the highlands. Just 
beyond Low Point is the Catholic village of the same name, looking out 
over the sea. The road now skirts the wider waters of St. George's Bay^ 
over which the dark Antigonish Mts. are visible. Beyond the settlements 
of Creignish and Long Point is the populous district of Judique, inhab- 



PORT HOOD. Route 42. 1G9 

ited by Scottish Catholic?, who are devoted to the sea and to agriculture. 
The Judiquers are tamous throughout the Province f jr their great stature, 
and are well known to the American fishermen on account of their pug- 
nacity. Yankee crews landing on this coast are frequently assailed by 
these pugilistic Gaels, and the stalwart men of Judique usually come otf 
victorious in the fistic encounters. The district has about 2,000 inhab- 
itants. 

Port Hood (two inns) is the capital of Inverness County, and is a pic- 
turesi|ue little seaport of about 800 inhabitants. The American fishermen 
in the Gulf frequently take shelter here during rough weather, and 400 
sail have been seen in the port at one time. There are large coal-deposits 
in the vicinity, which, however, have not yet been developed to an}^ 
extent. The town was founded by Capt. Smith and a party of New- 
Englanders, in 1790. " This port affords the only safe anchorage on the 
W. coast of Cape Breton to the N. of the Gut of Canso," and is marked 
by a red-and-white light, near the highway, on the S. Off shore is Smith's 
Island, which is 2 M. long and 210 ft. high, beyond which are the high 
shores of Henry Island. A stage-road runs IST. E. to Hillsborough, where 
it meets the road from Mabou, and thence passes E. to Whycocomagh (see 
page 167). Steamers run from Miilgrave to Port Hood everv Tuesday and 
Thursday. 

Mabou {Cameron House) is 10 M. N. E. of Port Hood, and is reached 
by a daily stage passing along the shore-road. It is at the mouth of the 
broad estuary of the Mabou River, amid bold and attractive scenery, and 
conta'ns about 800 inhabitants. To the N. ¥j. is the highland district of 
Cape Mabou, averaging 1,000 ft. in height, and thickly wooded. The 
Gulf-shore road to Margaree runs between this range and the sea, passing 
the marine hamlets of Cape Mabou and Sight Point. There is an inland 
road, behind the hills, which is entered by following the Whycocomagh 
road to the head of the estuary of the Mabou and then diverging to the 
N. E. This road is traversed by a tri-weekly stage, and leads up by the 
large farming-settlement at Broad Cove Intervale, to the W. shores of 
Lake Ainslie (see page 167), which has several small Scottish hamlets 
among the glens. 

"The angler who has once driven through Ainslie Glen to the shores of the 
hike, launched his canoe upon its broad waters, and entered its swiftly running 
stream, will never be content to return until he has fished its successive pools to its 
-very mouth." 

A road leads out from near the W. shore of the lake to the village of 
Broad Cove Chapel^ on the Gulf coast, traversing a pass in the highlands. 
Tlie stage runs N. between the hills and the valley of the ^largaree (S. W. 
Branch), "one of the most romantic and best stocked salmon-rivers in the 
world." Beyond the settlement of Broad Cove Marsh, a road runs out to 
the Gulf abreast of Sea- Wolf hland^ on whose cliffs is a fixed light, 300 ft. 
& 



170 Route 



MARGAREE. 



high. Margaree Forks is a rural village at the junction of the N. E. and 
S. W. Branches of the famous Margaree River, where salmon aboun(? 
from June 15 until July 15, and rare sea-trout fishing is found. 

" In Cape Breton the beautiful Margaree is one of the mo?t noted streams for sea- 
trout, and its clear water and picturesque scenery, winding through intervale mead- 
ows dotted with groups of witch-elm, and backed by wooded hills over a thousand 
feet in height, entitle it to pre-eminence amongst the rivers of the Gulf " 

There are several small hamlets in this region, with a total population 
of over 4,000. Margaree Harbor (Crowdis House; GilUs House), near 
the Chimnej-Corner coal-mines, 48 M. froui Fort Hood, has a small fleet 
of fishing-vessels. A shore-road runs N. E. 12 M. to Cheticamp, a district 
containing about 2,000 inhabitants, most of whom are of the old Acadian 
race. It is a fishing station of Robin & Co., an ancient and powerful 
commercial house on the Isle of Jersey ; and was founded by them in 1784, 
and settled by Acadian refugees from Prince Edward Island. The harbor 
is suitable for small vessels, and is formed by Cheticamp Island, sheltering 
the mouth of the Cheticamp River. There is a powerful revolving white 
light on the S. point of the island, 150 ft. high, and visible for 20 M. 
at sea. 

N. E. and E of Cheticamp extends the great highland-wilderness of 
the N. part of Cape Breton (see page 163), an unexplored and trackless 
land of forests and mountains. There are no roads above Cheticamp, and 
the most northerly point of the Province, Cape St. Lawrence (see page 
159), is 30 M. N. E. by E. ^ E. from the N. part of Cheticamp Island. 



The terrible storm which swept the Gulf of St. Lawrence in August, 1873, and 
wrecked hundreds of vessels, attained its greatest force around the island of Cape 
Breton and in the narrow seas to the W , towards Prince Edward's Island and the 
Magdalen Island. It lasted only a few hours, but was fearfully destructive in its 
effects, and strewed all these coasts with drowned mariners The following spirited 
poem is inserted here, by the kind permission of its author, Mr. Edmund C. Sted- 



Tlie Lord's- Day Gale. 



In Gloucester port lie fishing craft, — 
More staunch and trim were never seen : 

They are sharp before and sheer abaft. 
And true their lines the masts between. 

Alonff the wharves of Gloucester Town 

Their fares are liphtly landed down. 
And the laden flakes to sunward lean. 

Well know the men each eruising-groimd, 
And where the cod and mackerel be ; 

Old Eastern Point the schooners round 
And leave Cape Ann on the larboard lee : 

Sound are the planks, the hearts are bold. 

That hrave December s surges cold 
On George's shoals in the outer sea. 

And some nmst sail to the bunks far nortli 
And set their trawls for the hungry eod,- 

In the ghostly foe creep back and forth 
By shrouded paths no foot hath trod ; 

Tliion the crews the ice-winds blow. 

The bitter sleet, the frozen snow, — 
Their lives are in the hand of God : 



New England ! New England ! 

Needs suii they iuust, so brave and poor, 
Or June be warm or Winter storm. 

Lest a wolf gnaw through the cottage-door ! 
Three weeks at home, three long months gone. 
While the patient gcod-wives sleep alone, 

And wake to hear the breakers roar. 

The Grand Bank gathers in Its dead, — 
The deep sea-sand is their winding-sheet ; 

Who does not (leorge s billows dread 
That dash together the drifting fleet ? 

Who does not long to hear, in May, 

The pleasant wash of Saint Lawrence Bay, 
The fairest ground where Jishernieu meet ? 

There the west wave holds the red sunlight 
Till the bells at home are rung for nine : 

Short, short the watch, and raliii the night ; 
The tiery northern streamers shine ; 

The eastern sky anon is gold. 

And winds Irom pinv forests old. 
Scatter the white mists olfthe brine. 



THE LORDS-DAY GALE. 



Ruulii /f,. 



171 



New Rngland : New Eiifjland : 

r , . loves' well thine ocean mnin I 

It ' • 'th its locks unions thy rocks, 

\ z against thy heart hath lain ; 

upon its hosotn ride 

. the heavinfi of its tide : 

ce its secret speech is i lain. 

^ upe Breton and Eilward Isle hetween. 

In strait and gulf the schooners lay ; 
The sea was all ;it peace, I ween, 

Tiie night lulure that August day ; 
Wiis never :i Gloucester skipper there, 
But thouirlit creliin", with a riglit good fare. 

To suilfor lionie from Saint Lawrence Bay. 

New England I New England ! 

Thy giatifs love was turned to hate 1 
The winds control his fickle soul. 

And in his wrath he hath no mate. 
Thy shores his angry scourges tear. 
And for thv children in his care 

The sudden tempests lie iu wait. 

The East Wind gathered all unknown, — 

A thick sea cloud his course hefore ; 
lie left by night the frozen zone 

And smote the cliffs of Labrador : 
He lashed tlie coasts on either hand, 
And betwixt the Cape and Newfoundland 

Into the Bay his armies pour. 

He caught our helpless cruisers there 

As a gray wolf harries the huddling fold ; 
A sleet — a darkness - filled the air, 

A shuddering wave before it rolled : 
That Lord s-Day morn it was a breeze,— 
At noon, a blast th.nt shook the seas, — 

At night - a wind of Death took hold ! 

It leaped across the Breton bar, 

A death-wind from the stormy East I 
It scarred the land, and whirled afar 

The sheltering thatch of man and beast ; 
It mingled rick and roof and tree. 
And like a besom swept the sea, 

And churned the watcis into yeast. 

From Saint Paul s Light to Edward's Isle 

A thousand Craft it smofe simain ; 
And some against it s rove the while. 

And more to make a port were fain : 
The mackerel-gulls flew screaming past. 
And the stick that bent to the noonday blast 

Was split by the sundown hurricane. 

" Tho inland became as Gaelic as the most Gaelic part of Scotland. It continues 
PC to this (lay. What of Cape Breton is not Iligliland Scottisli is Acadian French 
The old allies of the Middle Ages live together in • niity on this fair outpost of the 
new world. The Highland immigrants had a hard time of it for many a long day. 
They were poor, unskilled in agriculture, and utterly ignorant of woodcraft or 
forest life. But their -morale was superb Like men they set the stout heart to 
the stae brae. Hardy, patient, frugal. God-fearing, they endured hardships th t 
would have killed ordinary settlers. Gradually and painfully they learned to^ wield 
the axe, and to hold the plough instead of the olnmsy hoe and spade of their native 
isles. The lakes and streams, the Bras d'Or and the rough Atlantic, gave generous 
supplies of. food. Their log-huts in the green woods were their own And their 
children have exchanged the primitive shanty for comfortable frame hou.^es, and 
the few sheep their fathers owned for fat flocks and hardy horses that they rear for 
the Sydney and Newfoundland markets. Take up your summer quarters on the 
Gut of Canso, or at St. Peter's, Baddeok, Whycoeomagh, Sydney, Louisbourg, Mar- 
paree, or any other local centre, and though you may not get ' all the comforts of 
the Sautmarket,' you will get what is better. The more Gaelic you can speak the 
lass money you need to have in your purse." (Rev. Geor«e M. Grant.) 



O, what can live on the open sea. 
Or moored iu port the gale outride? 

The verv craft that at anchor be 

Are (Irngyed along by the swollen tide! 

The great st(>rni-wave"came rolling west, 

And tossed the vessels on its crest : 
The ancient bounds its might defied I 

The ebb to check it had no power ; 

The surf ran up to an untold height ; 
It rose, nor vieUK-d, hour by hour, 

A night aiid <hiy, u day and night ; 
Far up tlie seething shores it cast 
The wreck of hull and spar and mast. 

The strangled crews, — u wof ul sight ! 

There were twenty and more of Breton sail 

Fast anchored on one mooring-ground ; 
Each lay within his neighbor s had. 
When the thick of the tempest closed them 
round: 
All sank at once in the gaping sea, - 
Somewhere on the shoals their corses be, 
Tne foundered hulks, and the seamen 
drowned. 

On reef and bar our schooners drove 
Before the wind, before the swell ; 

By the steep sand-clifi's their ribs were stove, — 
Lons, long their crews the tale shall tell ! 

Of the" Gloucester fleet are wrecks threescore; 

Of the Province sail two hundred more 
Were stranded in that tempest fell. 

The bedtime bells in Gloucester Town 
That Sabbath night rang soft and clear; 

The sailors' children laid them down,— 
Dear Lord! their sweet praj^ers couldst thou 
hear ? 

'T is said that gently blew the winds ; 

The good-wives, through the seaward blinds, 
Looked down the bay and had no fear. 

New England ! New England ! 

Thy ports their dauntless seamen mourn ; 
The twin capes yearn for their leturn 

Who never shall be thither borne ; 
Their orphans whisper as they meet ; 
The homes are dark in many a street, 

And women move in weeds forlorn. 

And wilt thou fail, and dost thou fear ? 

Ah, no : ihough widows cheeks are pale. 
The lads simll say : " Another year. 

And wo shall be of age to sail : ' 
And the mothers' hearts shall fill with pride. 
Though tears drop fast for them who (lied 

When the fleet was wrecked in the Lord's- 
1 Day gale. 



PEINCE EDWAED ISLAND. 



Prince Edward Island is situated in the southern portion of the 
Gulf of St. Lawrence, and is bounded on the S. by the Northumberland 
Strait. It is 30 M. from Cape Breton Island, 15 M. from Nova Scotia, and 
9 M. from New Brunswick, and is surrounded by deep and navigable 
watei's. The extreme length is 130 M.; the extreme breadth, 34 M.; and 
the area is 2,133 square miles. The surface is low or gently undulating, 
with small hills in the central parts, and the soil is mostly derived from 
red sandstone, and is very fertile. The air is balmy and bracing, less 
foggy than the adjacent shores, and milder than that of New Brunswick. 
The most abundant trees are the evergreens, besides which the oak and 
maple are found. The shores are deeply indented by harbors, of which 
those toward the Gulf are obstructed by sand, but those on the S. are com- 
modious and accessible. 

The island is divided into 3 counties, including 13 districts, or 67 town- 
ships and 3 royalties. It has 109,088 inhabitants, of whom 47,115 are Cath- 
olics, 33,835 are Presbyterians, 13,485 Methodists, and 7,205 Episcopalians. 
The majority of the people are of Scottish origin, and there are 300 
Micniac Indians. The local government is conducted by the Executive 
Council (9 members) and the House of Assembly (30 members), and the 
political parties which form about the petty questions of the island dis- 
play a partisan acrimony and employ a caustic journalism such as are 
not seen even in the United States. The Province is provided with gov- 
ernor and cabinet, supi-eme and vice-admiralty courts, and a public 
domain, on the same plan as those of the great Provinces of Quebec and 
Ontario. The land is in a high state of cultivation, and nearly all the 
population is rural. Manufactories can scarcely be said to exist, but the 
fisheries are carried on to some extent, and shipbuilding receives con- 
siderable attention.. The roads are good in dry weather, and lead through 
quiet rural scenery, broken every few miles by the blue expanses of the 
broad bays and salt-water lagoons. The chief exports consist of oats, 
barley, hay, potatoes, fish, live-stock, and eggs. 

It has been claimed that Prince Edward Island was discovered by 
Cabot, in 1497, but there is no certainty on this subject. It was visited 
by Champlain on St. John's Day, 1608, and received from him the iiamo 
of V IsU St. Jean, The whole country was then covered with stately for- 



PRINCE EDWARD ISLAND. IT-") 

ests, ubouiuling in game, and was inhabited by a clan of the Micmac 
Indians, who called it Kpayguit ("Anchored on the Wave"). It was 
included in the broad domain of Acadia, over which France and England 
waged such disastrous wars, but was not settled for over two centuries 
after Cabot's voyage. In 1663 this and the Magdalen Islands were granted 
to M. Doublet, a captain in the French navy, who erected summer fishing- 
stations here, but abandoned them every autumn. After England had 
wrested Nova Scotia from France, a few Acadians crossed over to L'Isle 
St. Jean and became its first settlers. In 1728 there were 60 French fam- 
ihes here; in 1745 there were about 800 inhabitants; and during her death- 
struggles with the Anglo-American armies, the Province of Quebec drew 
large supplies of grain and cattle from these shores. The capital was at 
Port la Joie (near Charlottetown), where there was a battery and garrison, 
dependent on the military commandant of Louisbourg. It is claimed by 
Haliburton that the island was captured by the New-Englanders in 1745, 
but it is known only that Gen. Pepperell ordered 400 of his soldiers to sail 
from Louisbourg and occupy L'Isle St. Jean. It does not appear whether 
or not this was done. After the expulsion of the Acadians from Nova 
Scotia, many of them fled to this island, which contained 4,100 inhab- 
itants in 1758. In that year Lord Rollo took possession of it, according to 
the capitulation of Louisbourg, with a small military force. 

In 1763 the island was ceded to Great Britain by the Treaty of Fon- 
ta'nebleau, and became a part of the Prov'nce of Nova Scotia. It was 
surveyed in 1764-6, and was granted to about 100 English and Scottish 
gentlemen, who were to pay quitrents and to settle their lands with 1 per- 
son to every 200 acres, within 10 years, the colonists to be Protestants 
from the continent of Europe. When the 10 years had elapsed, many of 
the estates were forfeited or sold to other parties, and only 19 of the 67 
townships had any settlers. In 1770 the island was made a separate Prov- 
ince, and in 1773 the first House of Assembly met. In 1775 the Americans 
captured thecap'tal, and in 1778 four Canadian companies were stationed 
there. In 1780 the Province was called New Ireland, but the King vetoed 
this name, and in 1800 it was entitled Prince Edward Island, in honor of 
His Royal Highness Prince Edward, Duke of Kent, then Commander of the 
Forces in British North America (afterwards father of Queen Victoria). In 
1803 the Earl of Selkirk sent over 800 Highlanders, and other proprietors set- 
tled colonies on their domains. The complicated questions arising from the; 
old proprietary estates have engrossed most of the legislation of the isl- 
and for 70 years, and have been settled by the purchase of the lands by 
the government Prince Edward Island long refused to enter the Dominion 
of Canada, but yielded at last on very favorable terms, one of the condi- 
tions being that the Confederacy should build a railway throughout the 
Province. 



174 Route 43. CAPE TRAVERSE. 

43. Point du Chene to Summerside and Charlottetown. — 
The Northumberland Strait 

St. John to Point du Cliene, see Routes 14 and 16. 

Steamers leave Point du Chene every da}' during the season of naviga- 
tion, on arrival of the morning train from St. John. The fare to Summer- 
side is $1.50; and from Summerside to Charlottetown, $1.50. 

The distance from Shediac to Summerside is 35 M. Soon after leaving 
the wharf at Point du Chene the steamer passes out through Shediac Bay, 
and enters the Northumberland Strait. The course is a little N. of E., and 
the first point of the island to come in o sight is Cape Egmont, with its 
lines of low sandstone cliffs. The traveller now sees the significance 
of the ancient Indian name of this sea-girt land, Epayguit, signifying 
"Anchored on the Wave." 

After passing Cape Egmont on the 1., the steamer enters Bedeque, or 
Halifax, Bay, and runs in toward the low shores on the N. E. After pass- 
ing Indian Point and Island it enters the harbor of Summerside, with the 
estuary of the Dunk River on the r. 

Summerside, see page 179. 

Upon leaving Summerside the steamer passes Indian Point on the 1., 
and, after running by Salutation Point, enters the Northumberland Strait. 
The course is nearly S. E. 9 M. from Salutation Point is Cape Traverse, 
and on the S. shore is Cape Tormentine. At this, the narrowest part of 
the strait, the mails are carried across by ice-boats in winter, and passen- 
gers are transported by the same perilous route. A submarine cable un- 
derlies the strait at this point. It is 20 M. from Cape Traverse to St. 
Peter's Island, and along the island shores are the villages of Tryon, Cra- 
paud, De Sable, and Bonshaw. On passing St. Peter's Island, the steamer 
enters Hillsborough Bay and runs N., with Orwell and Pownal Bays open- 
ing on the E. 

" Charlottetown Harbor, at its entrance between the cliffs of Blockhouse 
and Sea-Trout Point, is 450 fathoms wide, and, in sailing in, York River 
running northward, the Hillsborough River eastwardly, and the Elliot to t«he 
westward, surround the visitor with beautiful effects, and as he glides 
smoothly over their confluence, or what is called the Three Tides, he will 
feel, perhaps, that he has seen for the first t'me, should a setting sun gild 
tlie horizon, a combination of color and effect which no artist could ade- 
quately represent." 

Charlottetown, see page 175. 

Of late years the steamboats have run from Point du Chene to Summer- 
side, and from Pictou to Charlottetown, but not between Summerside and 
Charlottetown. 



CHARLOTTETOWX. Route 44. 175 

44. Picton to Prince Id ward Island. 

To CliurlottttoLon. 

The steamships leave Pictou for Charlottetown daily (during: the season 
of navij^atioii), on arrival of the morning train from Halifax. Fare, $2. The 
(li-^taiiee is a little over 50 M. 

Soon after leaving the safe and pleasant harbor of Pictou, the steamer 
approaches Pictou Is and, a hilly and well-wooded land 4 M. long, with a 
lighthouse and some farms. On the VV. is Caribou Island, consisting of 
several islets united by t-and-bars, and guarded by a lighthouse. There are 
pleasant views of the reced ng h ghlands of Nova Scotia; and the vessel 
moves easily through the quiet waters of the Nortluimberland Strait. 
" Prince Edward Island, as we approached it, had a pleasing aspect, and 
none of that remote friendlessness Avijich its appearance on the map con- 
veys to one; a warm and sandy land, in a genial climate, without fogs, 
we are inform.ed." 

After passing (on the r.) the long low Point Prim, the steamer sweeps 
around to the N. into Hillsborough Bay, and enters the harbor of Char- 
lottetown. 



Pictou to Georgetown. 

Steamships leave Pictou for Georgetown every Mondav; leaving George- 
town for Pictou Wednesdays. Fare from port to port. $2. The distance is 
nearh' 70 M. In winter the Stanley runs between Pictou and Georgetown. 

The chief incidents of this short voyage are the views of Pictou Island ; 
the approach to Cape Bear, the S. ¥j. point of P. E; Island, backed by 
hills 200 ft. high; and the ascent of the noble sheet of Cardigan Bay, be- 
tween Boughton and Panmure Islands. 

Georgetown, see page 181. 

45. Charlottetown. 

Arrival. — The steamer passes between St. Peter's Island (1.) and Governor's 
Island (r.) and ascends Hillsborough Bay lor about 6 M It then passes between 
BlDckhouse Point (on the 1., with a iigjt.iou.-e) and Sea-Trout Point, and enters the 
harbor of Charlottetown, where there are 7 -lo fathoms of water. Powerful cur- 
r^nt^ nre formed here by the tides of the Hin:<borous;h. York, and Elliot Rivers (or 
East, North, and West Rivers), which empty into this basin. 

Hotels. — Osborne House ; Davies liouse ; Rockiin. 

Stejiiiisliips. — I'he Worctster or the Carroll leaves Charlottetown every 
Thursday for the Strait of Canso, Halifax, and Boston. Fares: Charlottetown to 
Boston, #7.50 ; Halifax to Boston, $7. 



176 Route 45. GHARLOTTETOWN. 

Steamboats run between Charlottetown, Point du Chene, and Pictou (see Routes 
43 and 44). Another boat plies about the bay and up the Hillsborough River, mak- 
ing also trips to Crapaud and Orwell. She runs up the Hillsborough River to 
Mount Stewart on Monday, Tuesday, Friday, and Satui'day ; to Crapaud on. 
Wednesday ; and to Orvveil on Tuesday, Wednesday, and Thursday. Smaller ^^eam- 
boats ply between (Jharlottetown and Orwell, West River, Rocky Point, Vernoa- 
Eiver Bridge, and Murray's Harbor ; and to Southport every half iiour. 

Charlottetown, the cap tal of Prince Edward Island, is situated on 
gently rising ground on the N. side of the Hillsborougli River, and fronts 
on a good harbor. It has about 11,000 inhabitants, with 2 daily and 4 
■weekly newspapers, 4 banks, and 10 churches. The plan of the city is 
very regular, and consists of 6 streets, each 100 ft. wide, running E. and 
W., intersecting 9 streets running from N. to S. There are 4 squares. 

The Provincial Building- is the finest structure in the city. It stands 
on Queen's Square, at the head of Great George St., and is built of Nova- 
Scotia freestone (at a cost of S £5,000). The halls of the Legislative Coun- 
cil and House of Assembly are on the second floor, and are handsomely 
furnished and adorned with portraits of the statesmen of Prince Edward 
Island. On tlie same floor is the Colonial Library, containing a good col- 
lection of books relating to the history, laws, and physical characteristics 
of Canada and the British Empire. A pleasant view of the city and the 
rivers may be obtained from the cupola of the building. The Post Office. 
is also on Queen's Square, and is a new and handsome stone building. 
Just beyond is the Market House, a great wooden structure covered with 
shingles. The principal shops of Charlottetown are about Queen's Square, 
and offer but little to be desired. The Roman Catholic Cathedral of St. 
Dunstan is a spacious wooden edifice on Great George St., near the Square. 

The extens.ve Convent of Notre Dame is on Hillsborough Square, and 
occupies a modern brick building. The Prince of Wales College and the 
Normal School are on Weymouth St., in this vicinity. 

The old barracks and drill-shed are W. of Queen's Square, between 
Pownal and Sydney Sts., and are fronted by a parade-ground. The Gov- 
ernment House is on a point of land W. of the cit}^, and overlooks the 
harbor. 

In 1748 the government of the island was vested in civil and military officers, 
vhose residence was established at the W. entrance to the harbor of Port la Joie 
(Charlottetown), where they had a battery and a su.all garrison. It is said that the 
first French sailoi-s who entered the inner harbor \.ere so pleased with its tranquil 
teauty that they naned it Port la Joie. There were uo houses on the site of the 
city in 1752. The harbor was held by three British fi igates in 1746, but was ravageii 
hi 200 Micmacs under the French Ensign Montesson. All the English found on the 
$hore were captui'ed, but the Indians refused to attack the war-vessels. 

In 1768 Morris and Deschamps arrived here with a small colony, and erected huts. 
They laid out the streets of Charlottetown, which M'as soon established as the capi- 
tal of the island. In 1775 it was captured by two American war-vessels, which had 
been cruising in the Gulf to carry otf-the Quebec storeships. The sailors plundered 
the town, and led away several local dignitaries as prisoners, but Washington lib- 
erated the captives, and reprimanded the predatory cruisers. 

Charlottetown " has the appearance of a place from which something has de- 
parted; a wooden town, with wide and vacant streets, and the air of waiting for 



ENVIRONS OF CHARLOTTETOWN. Route 46. 177 

something That the productive island, witli its system of free schools, is about 

to enter upon a prosperous career, and that Charlottetowu is soon to become a place 
of groat activity, no one who converses with tlie natives can doubt, and I think 
that even now no traveller will regret spending an hour or two there ; but it is 
necessary to say that the rosy inducements for tourists to spend the summer there 
exist only in tlie guide-books." 

Environs of Charlottitown. 

The Wesleyan College is on an eminence back of the city, and overlo ks 
the harbor and the rivers. It has 10 instructors and about 300 students. 
St. Dunstan's Colh'ge is a Catholic institution, which occupies the crest 
of a hill 1 M. from the city, and has 4 professors. There are several pretty 
villas in the vicinity of Charlottetown ; and the roads are very good during 
dry weather. Some travellers have greatly admired the rural scenery of 
these suburban roads, but others have reported them as tame and uninter- 
esting. The same conflict of opinion exists with regard to the scenery of 
the whole island. 

Southpovt is a village opposite Charlottetown, in a pretty situation on the 
S. shore of the Hillsborough River. It is reached by a steam ferry-boat. 
3 i\I. from this place is the eminence called 
Tea Hill, whence a pleasing view of the parish and the bay may be ob- 
tained. A few miles beyond is the village of Pownal, at the head of 
Fownal Bay, and in a region prolific in oats and potatoes. 

46. Charlottetown to Summerside and Tignish. — The 
Western Shores of Prince Edward Island. 

This region is traversed by the Prince Edward Island Railway, a narrow-gauge 
road built by the Canadian government. This line was opened late in 1874. 

Express trains run from Charlottetown to Summerside in 2^ hours ; to Tignish 
in 6 hours. 

Stations. — Charlottetown to St DunPtan's. 2 : Cemeterv. 4 ; Rovalty Junction, 
5: Winsloe, 6.\: Milton, 10; Colville, 13\ : N. Wiltshire, 17; Hunter River, 21; 
Fredericton. 25 : Elliotts, 27^ ; Breadalbane, 29.\ : County Lane, 32 ; Freetown, 35.V ; 
Blueshank, 39 ; Kensins^ton, 41 ; New Annan^ 42 ; Summerside, 40; Miscouche, 
54: Wellinscton, 61; Richmond, 65'.: Northam,68; Port Hill, 71; Ellerslie, 72i ; 
Conw.av, 77: Portage, 80: Brae, 86 t O'Lenrv. 89: Bioomfi<4d, 95; Elmsdale, 100; 
Alberton, 104 ; Montrose, 108 ; De Blois, 1121; Ticrnish. 117. 

After leaving the commodious station-building, in the E. part of Char- 
lottetown, the train sweeps around the city, turning to the N. from the 
bank of the Hillsborough River. The suburban villas are soon passed, and 
the line traverses a level countiy to Royalty Junction, where the tracks 
to Souris and Georgetown (see Route 47) diverge to the N. E. The train 
now enters the main line, and runs W. through a fertile farming country, 
— "a sort of Arcadia, in which Shenstone would have delighted." The 
hamlets are small and the dwellings are very plain, but it is expected that 
the stations of the new ra hvay will become the nuclei of future villages. 
The ti-ain soon crosses the head-Avaters of the York River, and reaches N. 
Wiltshire, beyond which is a line of low hills, extending across the island. 
4 M. beyond th-"^s point is the station of Hunter River, whence a much- 



178 Route 46. ' RUSTICO. 

travelled road leads to the N. to New Glasgow and Rustico, locally famous 
for pleasant marine scenery. 

Rustico is a quiet marine settlement, with two churches and a bank, 
and about 300 inhabitants. It is near Grand Rustico Harbor, and is one 
of the chief fishing stations of the N. shore. The original settlers were 
Acadians (in the year 1710), many of whose descendants remain in the 
township, and are peaceful and unprogressive citizens. The Seaside Hotel 
(40 guests) is a small summer hotel near the sand-hills of the beach; and 
the facilities for boating, bathing, fishing, and gunning are said to be ex- 
cellent. The great fleets of the Gulf fishermen are sometimes seen off 
these shores. There is a pleasant drive up the Hunter River to Neio Glas- 
gow (Rackem's inn), which was settled by men of Glasgow, under Alex- 
ander Cormack, the Newfoundland explorer, in 1829. The Hunter River 
affords good trouting. Grand Rustico Harbor is rendered unsafe by shift- 
ing bars of sand. On the coast to the N. W. are the hamlets of N. Rus- 
tico and Cavendish. 

From County-Line Junction diverges the Cape-Traverse Branch Railway 
(one train daily). 

Kensington station is about 41 M. from Charlottetown, and is near the petty 
hamlet of the same name. To the N. E. is Grenville Harbor, with the estu- 
aries of three rivers, the chief of which is the Stanley. There are several 
maritime hamlets on these shores, and on the W. is New London, a neat 
Scottish settlement with two churches. A road also leads N. W. from 
Kensington to Princetown, a village of 400 inhabitants, situated on the 
peninsula between Richmond Bay, March Water, and the Darnley Basin, 
This town was laid out (in 1766) with broad streets and squares, and was 
intended for the metropolis of the N. coast, but the expectations of the 
government were never realized, and " the ploughshare still turns up the 
sod, where it was intended the busy thoroughfare should be." Malpeque 
Harbor is the finest and safest on the N. shore of Prince Edward Island. 
A few miles E. are the lofty sandstone cliffs of Cape Tryon, near New Lon- 
don harbor. Princetown fronts on Richmond Bay, a capacious haven 
which runs in to the S. W. for 10 M., and contains 7 islands. Travellers 
have praised the beauty of the road from Princetown to Port Hill, which 
affords many pleasant views over the bay. 

Beyond Kensington the train runs S. W. aci*oss the rural plains of St. 
David's Parish, and passes out on the isthmus between Richmond Bay and 
Bedeque Bay, where the island is only 3-4 M. wide. 9 M. from Kensing- 
ton it reaches Summerside. 

Summerside (Mawley House; Campbell'' s Hotel), on Bedeque Harbor, 
is a town of about 3,000 inhabitants, with 8 churches, 5 schools, 2 weeidy 
newspapers, and 2 banks. It is the port whence most of the products of 
the W. part of the island are sent out, and has grown rapidly of late years. 
The chief exports in 1882 were 600,000 bushels of oats, 110,000 bushels of 



SUiMMERSIDE. Route 40. 179 

potatoes, 10,300 bushels of barley, 86,450 dozen of eggs, and 4,337 barrels 
of the famous Bedequc oysters. The wharves are long, in order to reach 
the deep water of the channel; and the houses of the town are mostly 
small wooden buildings. 

The * Island Park Hotel is a summer resort on an islet off the harbor, 
and is patronized by American tourists. There are accommodations for 
fishing and bathing, and a steam terry-boat plies between the island and 
the town. The hotel commands a pleasant view of the Bedeque shores 
and the Strait of Northumberland (it has been closed for some years). 

"This little seaport is intended to be attractive, and it would give these travellers 
great pleasure to describe it if they could at all leuieuiber how it looks. But it is a 
piace that, like some faces, umkes no sort of iuipression on the memory. We went 
ashore there, and tried to take an interest in the siiipbuiiding, and in the little 
oysters which the harbor yields ; but wiiether \\e did take an interest or not has 
passed out of memory A small, unpicturesque, wooden town, in the languor of a 
provincial summer; why should we pretend an iatere>t in it wnich we did not feel? 
It did not disturb our reposeful frame of n.ind, nor much interfere with our enjoy- 
ment of the day." (Warner's Baddeck.) 

Steamboats run across the Strait of Northumberland to Point du Chene, 
leaving Suinmerside at 8 A. m. daily. 

On leaving Summerside, the train runs out to the W., over a level region. 
To the N. is the hamlet of St. Eleanors (Ellison's Hotel), a place of 400 in- 
habitants, situated in a rich forming country. It enjoys the honor of being 
the shire-town of Prince County, and is about 2^ M. from Summerside. 
3 M. from St. Eleanors is the rural village of Miscouche, inhabited by 
French Acadians. Wellington (Western Hotel) is a small hamlet and 
station 12 M. beyond Summerside, near the head of the Grand River, which 
flows into Richmond Bay. The Acadian settlements about Cape Egmont 
are a few miles to the S. W. 

The line passes on to Port Hill, a prosperous shipbuilding village on 
Richmond Bay. Near this place is Lennox Island, which is reserved for 
the Micmac Indians, and is inhab ted by about 150 persons of that tribe. 
Between the bay and the Gulf of St. Lawrence is George Island, which is 
composed of trap-rock and amygdaloid, and is regarded as a curious geo- 
logical intrusion in the red sandstone formations of the Prince-Edward 
shores. The train runs N. W. over the isthmus between the Cavendish 
Inlet and the Percival and Eiunore Rivers, and soon enters the North 
Parish. This region is thinly inhabited by French and British settlers, 
and is one of the least prosperous portions of the island. The line passes 
near Brae, a settlement of 300 Scotch farmers, near the trout-abounding 
streams of the Parish of Halifax. To the S. W. is the sequestered marine 
hamlet of West Point, where a town has been laid out and preparations 
made for a commerce which does not come. Th.e coast trends N. by E. 
6 M. from West Poi'jt to Cape Wolfe, whence it runs N. E. by E. 27 M. to 
North Point, in a long unbroken strand of red clay and sandstone cliffs. 

Alberton {Albion Heuse), one of the norti erii termini of the railway, 
is a prosperous \jija-o of bOO iniiab.tant>, witli live churches and ao 



180 Route 47. TIGNISH. 

American consular agency. It is situated on Cascumpec l harbor, and is 
engaged in shipbuilding and the fisheries. The American fishing-schooners 
often take refuge in this harbor. The neighboring rural districts are fer- 
tile and thickly populated, and produce large quantities of oats and pota- 
toes. This town was the birthplace of the Gordons, the heroic mission- 
aries at Eromanga, one of whom was martyred in 1861, the other in 
1872. S. of Alberton is Holland Bay, which was named in honor of him- 
self by Major Holland, the English sui'veyor of the island; and 6-8 M. N. 
is Cape Kildare. 

Tignish {Ryan's Hotel) is the extreme northern point reached by the 
railway, and is 117 M. from Charlottetown. It has about 200 inhabitants, 
and is one of the most important fishing-stations on the island. The in- 
habitants are mostly French and Scotch, and support a Catholic church 
and convent. There are seve al other French villages in this vicinity, 
concerning which the historian of the island says: "They are all old set- 
tlements. The nationality of the people has kept them together, until 
their farms are subdivided into small portions, and their dwellings are 
numerous and close together. Few are skilful farmers. Many prefer to 
obtain a living by fishing rather than farming. They are simple and in- 
offensive in their manners ; quiet and uncomplaining, and easily satisfied. 
The peculiarities of their race are not yet extinct; and under generous 
treatment and superior training, the national enterprise and energy, polite- 
ness and refinement, would gradually be restored." 

North Point is about 8 M. N. of Tignish, and is reached by a sea-view- 
ing road among the sand-dunes. It has a lighthouse, which sustanis a 
powerful light, and is an important point in the navigation of the Gulf. 

47. Charlottetown to Georgetown. 

By the Prince Edward Island Railway. 

Stations. — Charlottetown ; Royalty Junction, 5 M. ; Mount Stewart, 22 ; Car- 
digan, 40 ; Georgetown, 46. 

Beyond Royalty Junction the train diverges to the N. E., and follows the 
course of the Hillsborough River, though generally at some distance from 
the shore. The banks of this stream are the most favored part of that 
prosperous land of which Dr. Cuyler says: '*It is one rich, rolling, arable 
farm, from Cape East clear up to Cape North." As early as 1758 there Avere 
2.000 French colonists about this river. The Hillsborough is 30 M. long, 
and the tide ascends for 20 M. Much producg is shipped from these shores 
during the autumnal months. About 8 M. beyond the Junction the line 
crosses French Fort Creek, on whose banks the French troops erected a 
fortification to protect the short portage (li M.) across the island, from 
the river to Tracadie Harbor. Here the military domination was sun-en- 
1 Cascumpec, an Indian word, meaning " Flowing through Sand." 



GEORGETOWN. Route 47. 181 

dered to the British expeditionary forces. At Scotch Fort the French built 
tlie tirst church on the ishind, and the earliest British settlers located. 
From the lofty hill at St. Andrews a beautiful view is obtained over a rich 
rural country. 

The Lome House (100 guests, 87-10 a week), at Tracadie, is a favorite 
summer resort, 4 M. from Bedford station, facing the outlet of Bedford 
Bay, near grassy sand hills, along sea-swept bathing beach, '* the stain- 
less sands of Tracadie's high reef," the lightiiouse on the point, etc. Good 
tishing and shooting in the vicinity, which is a rich farming country. 

Mount Stewart is a prosperous little shipbuilding village. The train 
crosses the river at this point, and at Mount Stewart Junction it turns 
to the S. E., while the Souris Railway diverges to the N. E. The country 
which is now traversed is thinly settled, and lies about the head-waters of 
the MoiTell and Pisquid Rivers. There are several small lakes in this 
region, and foi-ests are seen on either hand. At Cardigan {^xnuM inn) the 
line reaches the head-waters of the eastern rivers. A road leads hence to 
the populous settlements on the Vernon River and Pownal Bay. 

Georgetown ( Commercial Hotel) is the capital of King's County, and 
has about 800 inhabitants. It is situated on the long peninsula between 
the Cardigan and Brudenelle Rivers, and its harbor is one of the best on 
the island, being deep and secure, and the last to be closed by ice. The 
county buildings, academy, and Episcopal church are on Kent Square. 
The chief business of the town is in the exportation of produce, and ship- 
building is carried on to some extent. The town is well laid out, but its 
growth has been very slow. Steamers ply between this por^, Pictou, and 
the Magdalen Islands (see Routes 44 and 49). The harbor is reached by 
ascending Cardigan Bay and passing the lighthouses on Panmure Head 
and St. Andrew's Point. 

Montague Bridge (Montague House) is reached from Georgetown by f> 
ferry of 6 M. and 11 M. of staging. It has 350 inhabitants and sevei-al 
mills. To the S. E. is St. Mary's Bay. About 20 M. S. of Georgetown is 
Murray Harbor., on which there are several Scottish villages. From Cape 
Bear the coast trends W. for 27 M. to Point Prim. 



" No land can boast more rich supply, 
That e'er was found beneath the sky ; 
No purer streams have ever flowed, 
Since Heaven that bounteous gift bestowed. 

And herring, like a mighty host, 

And cod and mackerel, crowd the coast." 



In this fine island, long neglected, 
Much, it is thought, might be efFected 
By industry and apphcation, — 
Sources of wealth with every nation." 



182 Route 48. ST. PETER'S. 



48. Charlottetown to Souris. 

By the Prince Edward Island Railway. 

Stations. — Charlottetown; Roj-alty Junction, 5 M. ; Mount Stewart, 22 ; Mor- 
rell, 30 ; St. Peter's, 38^ ; Harmony, 65'; Souris, 60^. 

Charlottetown to Mount Stewart, see page 181. 

At Mount Stewart Junction the train diverges to the N. E., and soon 
reaches Morrell, a fishing-station on the Morrell River, near St. Peter's 
Bay. 

St. Peter's (Prairie Hotel) was from the first the most important port 

on the N. shore of the island, on account of its rich salmon-fisheries. 

About the year 1750 the French government endeavored to restrict the 

fishing of the island, and to stimulate its agriculture, by closing all the 

ports except St. Peter's and Tracadie. The village is now quite small, 

though the salmon-fishery is valuable. St. Peter's Bay runs 7 M. into 

the land, but it is of little use. since there is only 5 ft. of water on its 

sandy bar. From this inlet to East Point the shore is unbroken, and is 

formed of a line of red sandstone cliffs, 33 M. long. 

"The sea-trout fishing, in the bays and harbors of Prince Edward Island, espe- 
cially in June, when the fish first rush in from the gulf, is really magnificent. They 
average from 3 to 5 pounds each. I found the best fishing at St. Peter's Bay, on 
the N. side of the island, about 28 M. from Charlottetown. I there killed in one 
morning 16 trout, which weighed 80 pounds. In the bays and along the coasts of 
the island they are taken with tlie scarlet fly, from a boat under easy sail, with a 
' mackerel breeze,' and sometimes a heavy ' ground swell.' The fly skips from wave 
to wave at the end of 30 yards of line, and there should be at least 70 yards more on 
the reel. It is splendid sport, as a strong fish will make sometimes a long run, and 
give a good chase down the wind" (Perley.) 

Harmony station is near Rollo Bay, which was named in honor of Lord 
Rollo, who occupied the island with British troops in 1758. There is a 
small hamlet on this bay; and to the S. W. are the Gaelic settlements of 
Dundas, Bridgetown, and Annandale, situated on the Grand River. 

Souris (three inns) is a village of Catholic Highlanders, pleasantly 
situated on the N. side of Colville Bay, and divided into two portions by 
the Souris River. The harbor is shallow, but is being improved by a break- 
water. The shore-fishing is pursued in fleets of dories, and most of the 
produce of the adjacent country is shipped from Souris to the French Isle 
of St. Pierre (see page 185). There is a long sandy beach on the W. of the 
village, and on the S. and E. is a bold headland. Souris was settled by 
the Acadians in 1748; and now contains about 600 inhabitants. 

The East Parish extends for several leagues E. of Souris, and includes 
the sea-shore hamlets of Red Point, Bothwell, East Point, North Lake, and 
Fairfield. The East and North Lakes are long and shallow lagoons on the 
coast. East Point is provided with a first-class fixed light, which is 130 
ft. above the sea and is visible for 18 M. Steamboats ply between Souris, 
Georgetown, and Pictou. 



MAGDALEN ISLANDS. Route 40. 183 

49. The Magdalen Islands. 

These remote islands are sometimes visited, during tlic summer, by fisliing-par- 
ties, who fiud rare sport iu catcliing tlie white sea-trout that abound in the vicinity. 
The accommodations for visitors are of the most primitive kind, but many defects 
are atoned for by the hospitahty of the people. 

The mail-stt'arner nearer leaves Pictou Landing for Georp:otown and Sonris (P. E. 
I.), and the Magdalen Islands every Monday after ttx- arrival of the Ilalifix ex- 
press. See S. G. W. Renjiinin's di-lishtful description of the IMagdalen Islands, in 
Th^ Centur)/ Mnan-Jntt. April, 1884. 

Fares. — Halifax to Port Hood, S 4.60 ; to Georgetown, S 4 10 ; to the Magdalen 
Islands, !i? 8. Fnrther particulars may be obtained by addressing James King, mail- 
contractor, Halifax. 

The Magdalen Islands are tliirteen in number, and are situated at the 
entrance to the Gulf of St. Lawrence, 50 M. from East Point (P. E. L), 
60 M. from Cape North (C. B.), 120 M.from Cape Ray (N. F,), and 150 M. 
from Gasp^. When they are fiv.st seen from the sea, they present the ap- 
pearance of well-detached islets, but on a nearer approach several of them 
are seen to be connected with each other by double lines of sandy beaches, 
forming broad and qui«t salt-water lagoons. The inhabitants are mostly 
Acadian fishermen (speaking French only), devoted to the pursuit of the 
immense schools of cod and mackerel that visit the neighboring waters. 
At certain seasons of the year the harbors and lagoons are filled with 
hundreds of sail of fishing-vessels, most of which are American and Pro- 
vincial. Seal-hunting is carrie I on here with much success, as extensive 
fields of ice drift down against the shores, bearing myriads of seals. On 
one occasion over 6,000 seals were killed here in less than a fortnight by 
parties going out over the ice from the shore. This is also said to be the 
best place in America for the lobster fishery, and a Portland company has 
recently founded a canning establishment here. On account of their 
abundant returns in these regards the Magdalen Islands have re:eived the 
fitting title of " The Kingdom of Fish." In order to protect these interests 
the Dominion armed cutter La Canadienne usually spends the summer in 
these waters, to prevent encroachments by Americans and Frenchmen. 

Amherst Island is the chief of the group, and is the seat of the principal 
village, the custom house, and the public buildings. On its S. point is a 
red-and-white revolving light which is visible for 20 M. ; and the hills in the 
interior, 550 ft. high, are seen from a great distance by day. The village has 
3 churches and the court-house, and is situated on a small harbor which 
opens on the S. o^ Pleasant Bay, a broad and secure roadstead where hun- 
dreds of vessels sometimes weather heavy storms m safety. 1 M. N. W. 
of the village is the singular conical hill called the Demoiselle (280 ft. high), 
whence the bay and a great part of the islands may be seen. 

Grindstone Island is 5-6 M. N. of Amherst, and is connected with it 
by a double line of sand-beaches, which enclose the wide lagoon called 
Basque Harbor. It is 5 M- long, and has a central hill 550 ft. high, while 
on the W. shore is the lofty conical promontory of sandstone which the 



184 Route 49. MAGDALEN ISLANDS. 

Acadians call Cap de Meule. On the same side is the thriving hamlet of 
DEtang du Nord. On the E., and containing 7 square miles, is Alright 
Island, terminated by the grayish-white clitfs of Cape Alright, over 400 
ft. high. A sand-beach runs N. E. 10 M. from Grindstone to Wolf Island, 
a sandstone rock | M. long; and another beach runs thence 9 M. farther 
to the N. E. to Grosse Island, on the Gi-and Lagoon. This island has another 
line of lofty clitfs of sandstone. To the E. is Coffin Island, and 4 M. N. is 
Bryon Island, beyond which are the Bird Isles. 

Entry Island lies to the E. of Amherst Island, off the entrance to 
Pleasant Bay, and is the most picturesque of the group Near the centre 
is a hill 580 ft. high, visible for 25 M., and from whose summit the 
whole Magdalen group can be overlooked. The wonderful cliffs of red 
sandstone which line the shores of this island are very picturesque in their 
effect, and reach a height of 400 ft. 

Deadman's Isle is a rugged rock 8 M. W. of Amherst, and derives its 
name from the fancied resemblance of its contour to that of a corpse laid 
out for burial. While passing this rock, in 1804, Tom Moore wrote the 
poem which closes : 

" There lieth a wreck on the dismal shore Doth play on as pale and livid a crew 

Of cold and pitiless Labrador, As ever yet diank the churchyard dew. 
Where, under the moon, upon mounts of 

frost, " To Deadman's Isle in the eye of the blast, 

Full many a mariner's bones are tossed. To Deadmr.n's Isle she speeds her fast ; 

By skeleton shapes her sails are furled, 

"Yon shadowy bark hath been to that wreck, And the hand that steers is not of this 

And the dim blue fire that lights her deck world." 

The Bird Isles are two bare rocks of red sandstone, | M. apart, the chief 
of which is known as Gannet Rock, and is 1,300 ft. long and 100-140 ft. 
high, lined with vertical cliffs. These isles are haunted by immense num- 
bers of sea-birds, gannets, guillemots, puflfins, kittiwakes, and razor-billed 
auks. " No other breeding-place on our shore is so remarkable at once 
for the number and variety of the species occupying it." Immense quan- 
tities of eggs are carried thence by the islanders, but to a less extent than 
formerly. 

This great natural curiofity was visited in 1632 by the Jesuits (who called the rocks 
Les ColoynbiersY by Heriot in 1807, by Audubon, and in 1860 by Dr. Bryan. The 
Dominion has recently erected a lighthouse here at great expense, and to the imminent 
peril of those engaged iu the work, since there is no landing-place, and in breezy 
weather the surf clashes violently against the cliffs all around. The tower bears a 
fixed white light of the first class, which is vi ible for 21 M. 

(Jharlevoix visited these islands in 1720, and wondered how, " in such a Multitude 
of Nests, every Bird immediately finds her own. ^^'e fired a Gun, which gave the 
Alarm thro' all this flying Com.mon wealth, and there was formed above the two 
Islands, a thick Cloud of these Birds, which was at least two or three Leagues 
around."' 

The Magdalen Islands were visited by Cartier in 1534, but the first permanent sta- 
tion was founded here in 16G3 by a company of Honflcur mariners, to whom the 
islands were conceded by the Company of New France In 1720 the Duchess of 
Orleans granted them to the Count de St. Pierre. In 1763 they were inhabited by 
10 Acadian families, and in 1767 a Bostonian named Gridley founded on Amherst 



ST. PIERUE AND MIQUELON. Route 50. 185 

laland an establishment for trading and for the seal antl walrns fisheries. During 
the llevoiution \uieriian privateers vi.-ited the inlands, and destroyed everything 
acccs:HiMe. ti.idley returned after tlie war, but the walrus soon became extinct, 
and the islanders turned their attention to tlio cod and herring fisheries. When 
Admiral e'oiiin received his grant there were lUO families here; in 1831 there were 
1,000 inhabirants: and the present population is about 3,500. In the mean time 
thriH? colonies have been founded and populated from these isiaiuls, on Labrador and 
the N shore. Tiie Lord's-Day Gale (see page 170) wrought s.id havoc among the 
fleets in these waters. 

Tradition tells that when Capt. Coffin was conveying Governor-General Lord Dor- 
chester to Canada in his frigate, a fuiious ^torm arose in tiie Gu.f, ai,d tlie skilful 
mariner saved his vessel by gaii.ing shcUer under the lee of these islands. Dorches- 
ter, grateful for his preservation, secured for the captain the grant of the isl^uds 
"in free and common .'^occage," with the rights of building roads and fortifications 
reservid to the Cro.vn. The grantee was a native of Boston and a benefactor of 
Nantucket, and subsequently became Admiral Sir Isaac Coffin. The grant now 
belongs to his nephew. Admiral Coffin, of Bath, and is an entailed estate of the 
family. In 1S73, 75 years after the grant, the legislature of Quebec (in whose juris- 
diction the islands lie) made extensive investigations with a view to buy out the pro- 
prietor's claim, since many of the islanders had emigrated to Labrador and the 
Mingan Isles, dissatisfied with their uncertain tenure of the land. 

50. St. Pierre and Miquelon. 

Time-Table for 1888. — Str. St. Pierre leaves Halifax every alternate Monday 
at 10 A. M. (providing tue mail from England has then arrived), for St. Pierre, Miq., 
traversing the Bras d"Or Lakes, and calling at the following ports in Cape Breton. 
St. Peter's, fare, .^6.00 ; return, $9 00, , 

Baddeck, " 7.00; " lii.oO. | 

Svduev. " 8.00; " 12 1 0, ' including meals and 

N. Sydnev, " 8.00; ' 12.00, ( state-room berth, 

and Cow May, " U 00 ; " 1400, i 

Fare to =Jt Piei-ie, 815.0 ) : return, 825. J 

St. Pierre mav also be visited by the Western Coastal steamer from St. John's, 
N. F. (see Route 60). 

There ;ae ^everal French cafeii and pensions in the village of St. Pierre, at which 
the traveller can find indifferent accommodations. The best of these is that at which 
the telegraph-operators stop. 

On entering the harbor of St. Pierre, the steamer passes Ga'antri/ Head, on which 
is a red-and-white flash-light which is visible for 20 M., and also two fog-guns. 
Within the harbor are two fixed ligiits, one w lite and one red, which are visible for 
6 M. ; and the Isle aux Chi ens contains a scattered fishing- village. 

The island of St. Pierre is about 12 M from Point May, on the New- 
foundland coast, and is 12 M. in circumference. It is mostly composed of 
rugged porphyritic ridges, utterly arid and barren, and the scenery is of 
a striki g and singular character. Back of the village 's the hill of Cal- 
vaire, surmounted by a tall cross; and to the S. W., beyond Ravenel Bay, 
is the lakelet called V Etang du Savoyard. The town is compactly built on 
the harbor at the E. of the island, and some of its houses are of .'^tone. It 
is guarded by about 50 French soldiers, whose presence is necessary to 
keep the multitudes of fearless and pugnacious sailors from incessant riot- 
ing. There is a large force of telegraph-operators here, in charge of the 
two cables from America to Great Britain by way of Newfoundland, and 
of the Franco-American cable, which runs E. to Brest and S. VV. to Dux- 
bury, in Massachusetts. 

The onlv good house in the town is that of the Governor: and the Cath- 



186 Route 50. ST. PIERRE AND MIQUELON. 

olic church and convent rise prominently over the low houses of the fisher- 
men. Near the sea is a battery of ancient guns, which are used only for 
warning in season of fogs. The buildings are nearly all of wood, and in- 
clude many shops, where every variety of goods may be obtained. The 
merchants are connected with French and American firms. There are 
numerous cabarets., or drinking-saloons ; and the auherges.i or small taverns, 
are thoroughly French, The citizens are famed for their hospitality to 
properly accredited strangers; and the literary culture of the community 
is served by a diminutive weekly paper called La Feuille Oj/icielle, printed 
on a sheet of foolscap, and containing its serial Parisian feuilleton. 

The street of St. Pierre presents a very interesting sight during the 
spring and fall It is crowded with many thousands of hardy fishermen, 
arrayed in the quaint costumes of their native shores, — Normans, Bretons, 
Basques, Provincials, and New-Englanders, — all active and alert; Avhile 
the implements of the fisheries are seen on every side. The environs of 
the town are rocky and utterly unproductive, so that the provisions used 
here are imported from the Provinces. 

The resident population is 6,000 (of whom 24 are Protestant), and the 
government is conducted by a Commandant, a Police Magistrate, Doctor, 
Apostolic Prefect, and Engineer, with a few artillerists and gens-d'armes. 
There is usually one or more French frigates in the harbor, looking after 
the vast fisheries which employ 15,000 sailors of France, and return 
30,000,000 francs' worth of fish. 

St. Pierre is the chief reBdezvoiis of the French fishermen, and immenise fleets are 
sometimes gathered here. Over 1,000 sail of square-rigged vessels from France are 
engaged in these fisheries, and on the 29tli of June, 1874, the roadstead near the 
island contained 350 sail of square-rigged vessels and 300 fore-and-aft vessels. They 
are here furnished with supplies, which are drawn from the adjacent Provinces, and 
in return leave many of the luxuries of Old France. It is claimed that the brandy 
of St. Pierre is the best in America. The fishermen leave their fish here to be cured, 
and from this point they are sent S. to the United States and the West Indies. 

Little Miquelon hlancJ, or Langley Island, lies 3 M. N. W. of St. Pierre, and is 
about 24 M. around. It is joined to Great IVSiqvielon Island by a long and 
narrow sandy isthmus. The latter island is 12 M. long, and looks out on Fortune 
Bay. Near its N. end are the singular hills known as Mt. Chapeau and Mt Oal- 
vaire. On this island, during the summer of 1874, was wrecked H. B. M. frigate 
Niobe, the brave ship that trained her guns on Santiago de Cuba, and prevented a 
total massacre of the Virginivs prisoners. 

St. Pierre was captured by a British fleet in 1793, and all its inhabitants, 1,502 in 
number, were carried away to Halifax, whence they were soon afterwards sent to 
I'rance. In 1796 a French Republican fleet under Admiral Richery visited the de- 
serted island, and completely destroyed its buildings and wharves. It was, how- 
ever, restored to France in 1814, together with her ancient privileges in these 
waters. "All the island is only a great laboratory for the preparation, curing, 
and exportation of codfish For the rest, not a tree, not a bush, above 26 centi- 
metres." 

The Hotel Joinville and the Pension Hacala are visited by strangers. Theatricals 
are given at the Casino on the Cathedral Square. 

See a capital illustrated article on St. Pierre, by S. G. W. Benjamin, in Th( 
Century Mag%zint, June, 18S4. 



Travellers intending to visit Newfoundland shoidd send to the Queen'' s 
Printer, at St. John\'i,for the Yeau-Book. ani> Almanac, detailing the 
island routes, distances, etc 



NEWFOUNDLAND 



Is bounded on the W. by the Gulf of St. Lawrence, on the N. by the 
Strait of Belle Isle, and on the E. and S. by the Atlantic Ocean. From 
X. to S. it is 350 M. long, and the average breadth is 130 M., giving an 
estimated area of 40,200 square miles. The coast is steep and bold, and 
Is indented with numerous deep bays and fiords. Mines of lead and cop- 
per are being worked with much success, and there are large undeveloped 
deposits of coal on the W coast. 

" Up go the surges on the coast of Newfoundland, and down again into the sea. 
The huge island .... stands, with its sheer, beetling cliffs, out of the ocean, a mon- 
strous mass of rock and gravel, almost without soil, like a strange thing from the 
hottom of the great deep, lifted up suddenly into sunshine and storm, but belong- 
ing to the watery darkness out of which it has been reared. The eye accustomed to 
richer and softer scenes finds something of a strange and almost starthng beauty in 
its bold, hard outlines, cut out on every side against the sky Inland, sur- 
rounded by a fringe of small forests on the coast-;, is a vast wilderness of moss, and 
rock, and lake, and dwarf firs about breast-high. These little trees are so close and 
srifF and flat-topped that one can almost walk on them. Of course they are very hard 
things to make way through and among .... In March or April almost all the 
men go out in fltets to meet the ice that floats down from the northern regions and 
to kill the .«eals that cou.e down on it. In early summer a third part or a half of 
all the people go, by fm.ilies, in their schooners, to the coast of Labrador, and 
spend the summer fishing there ; and in the winter, half of them are living in the 
woods, in tilts, to have their fuel near them. At home or abroad, during the sea- 
son, the men are on the water for seals or cod. The women sow, and plant, and 
tend the little gardens, and dry the fish ; in short, they do the land-work, and are 
the better for it." (R. T. S. Lowell.) 

Two of the most remarkable features of the natural history of the island 
are thus quaintly set forth by Whitbourne {anno 1622) : " Neither are there 
any Snakes, Toads, Serpents, or any other venomous Wornies that ever 
were knowne to hurt any man in that country, but only a very little nim- 
ble fly (the least of all other flies), which is called a Miskieto; those flies 
seem to have a great power and authority upon all loytering and idle peo- 
ple that come to the Newfoundland." Instances have been known where 
the flies have attacked men with such venom and multitudes that fatal 
results have followed. In the interior of the island are vast unexplored 
regions, studded with large lakes and mountain-ranges. Through these 
solitudes roam countless thousands of deer, which are pursued by the Mic- 
mac hunters. 

Newfoundland was discovered by the Norsemen in the tenth century, 
but they merely observed the coast and made no further explorations. 



188 Route 51. NEWFOUNDLAND. 

There is good reason for supposing that it was frequented by Breton and 
Norman fishermen during the fourteenth century. In 1497 the island was 
formally discovered by John Cabot, who was voyaging under the patron- 
age of Henry VII. of England. The explorations of Cortereal (1501), Ve- 
razzano (1524), and Cartier (1534), all touched here, and great fishing- 
fleets began to visit the surrounding seas. Sir Humphrey Gilbert took 
possession of Newfoundland in the name of England, in 1583, making 
this the most ancient colony of the British Empire. The settlements 
of Guy, Whitbourne, Calvert, and others were soon established. 

The fishermen were terribly persecuted by pirates during the earlier 
part of the 17th century. Peter Easton alone had 10 sail of corsairs on the 
coast, claiming that he was "master of the seas," and levying heavy 
taxes on all the vessels in these waters. Between 1612 and 1660 alone, 
the pirates captur^-d 180 pieces of ordnance, 1,080 fishermen, and large 
fleets of vessels. 

Between 1692 and 1713 the French made vigorous attempts to conquer 
the island, and the struggle raged with varying fortunes on the E. and S. 
shores. By the Treat}- of Tjtrecht the French received permission to catch 
and cure flsh along the W. coast (see Route 61) In 1728 Newfoundland 
was formed into a Province, and courts were established. The French made 
determined attacks in 1761 and 1796, and the people were reduced to 
great extremity by the Non-Intercourse Act passed by the American Con- 
gress in 1776 and again in 1812-14. In 1817 there were 80,000 inhab- 
itants, and 800 vessels were engaged in the fisheries, whose product was 
valued at $10,000,000 a year. In 1832 the first Legislative Assembly was 
convened; in 1838 a geological survey was made; and in 1858 the Atlan- 
tic telegraph-cable was landed on these shores. Newfoundland has re- 
fused to enter the Dominion of Canada, and is still governed directly by 
the British Crown. It had 197,589 inhabitants in 1884, and 2u2,.,uU .n lo^-. 



51. Halifiix to St. John's, Newfouiidland. 

The ocean steamships behveen Halifax and Liverpool call at St. John's freqiuntly. 
The new steamers of the Red Cross Line run from New 
York (office, 18 Broadway), to Halifax and St. John's. New York to Halifax, 50 
hrs. ; stay at Halifax, 20 hrs. ; Halifax to St. John's 50 hrs ; stay at St. John's. 60 
hrs ; St. John's to Halifax, 50 hrs.; stay at Halifax. 30 hrs ; Halifax to New York, 
50 hrs. Average time of the entire round trip, 12 days. 

Fares : N. Y. to Halifax, first cabin, ij?I6 second •••abin, $0 ; to Halifax and return, 
$28, or 116 : N. Y. to St. .John's, 8?34, or >ifl8 ; to St. John's and return , 8F60, or 5f32 ; 
Halifax to St. John's, .#1S, or *9 ; to St. John's and return, ;i?34, or *16. Sailings 
every 15 days in summer ; every lO days in spring and autumn. 

Halifax to Sydney, see page 148. 

After leaving the harbor of Sydney, Flint Island is seen on the r., and the 
blue ranges of the St. Anne Mts. on the 1. The course is but little N. of 
E., and the horizon soon becomes level and landless. Sometimes the dim 
blue hills of St. Pierre are the first land seen after the Cape-Breton coast 



ST. JOHN'S. Route 52. 189 

sinks below the horizon; but generally the bold mountain-promontoiy of 
Cape Chapeau Konge is the first recognizable shore. Then the deep bight 
of Placentia Bay opens away on the N. After rounding Cape Race (see 
page 199), the steamship stretches away up the Strait Shore past a line 
of fishing hamlets, deep fiords, and rocky capes. 

" When the mists dispersed, the rocky shores of Nevvfoundland were close upon 
our left, — lofty cliffs, red and gray , terribly beaten by the wave< of the broad ocean. 
We amused ourselves, as we passed abreast the bays and headlands and rugged 
islands, with gazing at the wild scene, and searching out the beauty tiniidly reposing 
among the bleak and desolate. On the whole, Newfoundland, to the voyager from 
the States, is a lean and bony land, in thin, ragged clothes, with the smallest amount 
oriidornment. Along the sides of the dull, brown mountains there is a suspicion 
of verdure, spotted and striped here and there with meagre woods of birch and fir. 
The glory of this hard region is its coast: a wonderful perplexity of fiords, bays and 
creeks, islands, peninsulas and capes, endlessly picturesque, and very often magnifi- 
cently grand. Nothing can well exceed the headlands and precipices, honeycombed, 
shattered, and hollowed out into vast caverns, and given up to the thunders and the 
fury of tlie deep-sea billo.vs. . . The brooks that How from the highlands, and fall 
over cliffs of great elevation into the very surf, and that would be counted features 
of grandeur in some countries, are here the merest trifles, a kind of jewelry on the 
hem of the land-cape," (Noble.) 

" T;ie first view of the harbor of St Ji)hn's is very striking Lofty precipitous 
clitTs,of hard dark-red sandstone and conglomerate, range along the coast, with deep 
water close at their feet Their beds plunge from a height of 400-700 ft., at an angle 
of 70°, right into the sea, where they are ceaselessly dashed against by the unbroken 
swell of the Atlantic waves "" (Jukes ) 

53. St. John's, Newfoundland. 

Arrival from the Sea. — " The harbor of St. John's is certainly one of the 

most remarkable for bold and effective scenery on the Atlantic shore We were 

moving spiritedly forward over a bright and lively sea, watching the stern headlands 
receding in the Sduth, and starting out to view in the north, when we passed Cape 
Spear, a lofty promontory, crowned with a lighthouse and a signaUstafF, upon which 
was floating the meteor Hag of England, and at once found ourselves abreast the 
bay in front of St. John's. Not a vestige, though, of anything like a city was in 
siglit, except another Hag flitting on a distant pinnacle of rock. Like a mighty 
Coliseum, the sea-wall half encircled the deep water of this outer bay, into which 
the full power of the ocean let itself under every wind except the westerly. Right 
to.vnrds the coast where it gathered itself up into the greatest massiveness, and tied 
itself into a very Gordian knot, we cut across, curious to behold when and where the 
rugged adamant was going to split and let us through. At length it opened, and we 
look(M.l through, and presently glided through a kind of mountain-pass, with all the 
lonely grandeur of the Franconia Notch. Above us, and close above, the rugged, 
brown cliffs rose to a fine height, armed at certain points with cannon, and before 
us, to all appearance, opened out a most beautiful mountain lake, with a little city 
looking down from the mountain-side, and a swamp of shipping along its shores. We 
were in the harbor, and before St John's." (Noble.) 

Hotels. New Atlantic Hotel, 60 rooms, parlors, billiard rooms, etc., elevator, 
elei-tric bells, view of harbor; Union House, 3(9 vV'aier bt. There are a so two or 
turee boaruing-houses. Mrs. tiuims's, 353 Water St., is one of the best of the.-e ; 
and Knights Home, 173 Water St., is tolerable. 

Carriages may be engaged at the stands on Water St. (near the Post-Office). 
The rate per hour is 80c 

Amusements, generally of merely local interest, are prepared in the City Hall 
There is a Masonic Temple. Boat-racing is frequently carried on at Quiddy-Viddj 
Pond Cricket-matches are also ])layed on the outskirts of the city. 

Post-Olfice, at the Market House, on Water St. Telegraphy New York, New 
foundland, and London Co., at the Market House. 



190 Route 52. ST. JOHN'S. 



Mail-vi^agons leave St. John's for Portugal Cove, daily ; to Say Bulls and 
Ferryland, weekly ; to Salmonier and Placentia, on the day of arrival of the Hali- 
fax mail. Railroad, to points on Conception Bay. 

Steamships. — For Bay-de-Verds, Trinity, Catalina, Bonavista, King's Cove, 
Greenspond, Fogo, Twillingate, Exploits Island, Little Bay Island, Tilt Cove, Bett's 
Cove, Nipper's Harbor, and the Labrador coast ; to Ferryland, Renewse, Trepassey, 
Burin, St. Lawrence, Grand Bank, St. Pierre, Harbor Briton, Gaultois, Great Jervois, 
Burgeo, Little Bay (La Poile), Rose Blanche Channel, and Sydnev. Fares (meals 
included) to Bav-de-Verds or Ferryland, 10 s. ; Trinitv or Placenfia, 20 s. ; 
Catalina or Burin, 20 s. : Fogo or St. Pierre, 32 s. 6d. ; Tilt Cove, 40s.; Rose 
Blanche, 50 s. ; Sydney, 70 s. These steamships to the Northern and Western out- 
ports leave about every ten days, and connect with the Hercules for Labrador. 
The Bonavista runs from St. John's to Pictou and Montreal every fortnight, in 
summer The Red-Cross Line runs the Miranda and Portia, steamships from St. 
John's to Hilifax and New York every ten days. (See page 188) The Allan- Line 
steamships from HaUfax to Liverpool reach St. John's in 48 hrs. 

St. John's, the capital of the Province of Newfoundland, is situated in 
latitude 47° 33' 33" N , and longitude 52^ 45' 10" W., and is built on the 
slope of a long hill which rises from the shore of a deep and secure har- 
bor. At the time of the census of 1869 there were 22,555 inhabitants in 
the city (there ai"e now about 27,000); but the population, owing to the 
peculiar character of its chief industry, is liable at any time to be in- 
creased or diminished by several thousand men. The greater part of the 
citizens are connected with the fisheries, directly or indirectly, and large 
fleets are despatched from the port throughout the season. Their return, 
or the arrival of the sealing-steamers, with their great crews, brings new 
life to the streets, and oftentimes results in such general "rows" as re- 
quire the attendance of a large police-force. The interests of the city are 
all with the sea, from which are drawn its revenues, and over which pass 
the fleets w^hich bring in provisions from the Provinces and States to the 
S. W. The manufactures of St. John's are insignificant, and consist, for 
the most part, of biscuit-bakeries and oil-refineries (on the opposite side 
of the harbor). An immense business is done by the mercantile houses 
on Water St. in furnishing supplies to the outports (a term applied to all 
the other ports of Newfoundland except St. John's); and one firm alone 
has a trade amounting to $12,000,000 a year. For about one month, 
during the busy season, the streets are absolutely crowded with the people 
from the N. and W. coasts, selling their fish and oil, and laying in pro- 
visions and other supplies for the ensuing year. The commercial interests 
are served by three banks and a chamber of commerce; and the literary 
standard of society is maintained by the St. John's Athena?um and the 
Catholic Institute. The city is supplied with gas, and water is brought 
in from a lake 4^ M. distant, by works Avhich cost $360,000. 

" In trying to describe St. John's, there is some diffifulty in applying an adjec- 
tive to it sufficiently distinctive and appropriate. \Vo find other cities coupled with 
words which at once give their pi-edominaut characteristic ; London the richest, 
Paris the gayest, St. Petersburg the coldest. In one respect the chief town of New- 
foundland has, I believe, no rival ; we may, therefore, call it the fishiest of modern 
capitals. Round a great part of the harbor are sheds, acres in extent, roofed with 
cod split in half, laid on like slates, drying in the sun, or rather the air, for there is 



ST. JOIIX'S. lioHtef^. 191 

not much of the former to depend upon The town is irregular and divt,v, built 

rhioHy of wood, the dampness of the chmate rendering stone unsuitable. ""(^ELior 

W.VRBLRrON.) 

The harbor is small, but deep, and is so thoroughl}' landlocked tliat the 
water i$ always smooth. Here may generally be seen two or three British 
and French frigates, and at the close of the season these narrow waters are 
well filled with the vessels of the fishing-fleets and the powerful sealing- 
steamers. Along the shores are the fish-stages, where immense quantities 
of cod, herring, and salmon are cured and made ready for exportation. 
On the S. shore are several wharves right under the cliffs, and also a float- 
ing dock which takes up vessels of 800 tons' burden. The entrance to the 
harbor is called the * Narrows, and is a stupendous cleft in the massive 
ridge which lines the coast. It is about 1,800 ft. long, and at its narrow- 
est point is but 660 ft. wide. On either sid ' rise precipitous walls of sand- 
stone and conglomerate, of which Signal Hill (on the N. side) reaches an 
altitude of 520 ft , and the southern ridge is nearly 700 ft- high. Vessels 
coming m from the ocean are unable to see the Narrows Ui.til close upon 
it, and steer for the lofty block-house on Signal Hill. The points at the 
entrance were formerly well fortified, and during war-time the harbor was 
closed by a chain drawn across the Narrows, but the batteries are now in 
a neglected condition, and are nearly disarmed. 

The city occupies the rugged hill on the N. of the harbor, and is built 
on three parallel streets, connected by steep side-streets. The houses are 
mostly low and unpainted wooden buildings, crowding out on the side- 
walks, and the general appearance is that of poverty and thriftlessness. 
Even the wealthy merchants generally occupy houses far beneath their 
station, since they seem to regard Newfoundland as a place to get for- 
tunes in and then retire to England to make their homes. This prin- 
ciple was universally acted on in former years, but latterly pleasant villas 
are being erected in the suburbs, and a worthier architectural appearance 
is desired and expected for the ancient capital. Water Street is the main 
business thoroughfare, and follows the curves of the harbor shore for about 
I5 M. Its lower side is occupied by the great mercantile houses which 
supply "fish-and-fog-land " with provisions, clothing, and household re- 
quirements; and the upper side is lined with an alternation of cheap shops 
and liquor-saloons. In the N. part is the Custom House, and near the cen- 
tre is the spacious building of the Market-Hall and the Post-OflRice. To the 
S , Water Street connects with the causeway and bridge of boats which 
crosses the head of the harbor. Admonished by several disastrous fires, 
the city has caused Water St. to be built upon in a substantial manner, 
and the stores, though verj' plain, are solidly and massively constructed. 

The Anglican Cathedral stands about midway up the hill, over the 
old burying-grouiid. It was planned by Sir Gilbert Scott, the most emi- 
nent British architect of the pi^esent era, and is in the early English Gothic 



192 Route 52. ST. JOHN'S. 

architecture. Owing to the inability of the Church to raise sufficient funds 
(for tlie missions at the outports demand all her revenues), the cathedral 
IS but partly finished, but since 1880 much work has been done upon it, 
largely by fishermen volunteers. The lofty proportions of the interior 
and the fine Gothic colonnades of stone between the nave and aisles, 
together with the high lancet-windows, form a pleasant picture. 

The * Roman Catholic Cathedral is the most stately building in New- 
foundland, and occupies the crest of the ridge, commanding a noble * view 
over the city and harbor and adjacent country, and looking through the 
Narrows on to the open sea. The prospect fr.om the cathedral terrace on 
a moonlight night or at the time of a clear sunrise or sunset is especially 
to be commended. In the front part of the grounds is a colossal statue of 
St. Peter, and other large statues are seen near the building. The cathe- 
dral is an immense stone structure, with twin towers on the front, and is 
surrounded with a long internal corridor, or cloister. There are no aisles, 
but the whole buildhig is thrown into a broad nave, from which the tran- 
septs diverge to N. and S. The stone of which it is constructed Avas 
brought from Conception Ba}- and from Dunleary, Ireland, and the walls 
were raised by the free and voluntarv labors of the people. Clustered 
about the cathedral are the BisJwjfs Palace, the convent and its schools, 
and St. Bonaventure' s College (5 professors), where the missionaries are 
disciplined and the Catholic 3-outh are taught in the higher branches of 
learning 

Catholicism was founded on the island by Sir George Calvert (see Route 54) and 
by the Bishop of Quebec ; suffered persecution from 1762 to 1784, when all priests 
were banished (though some returned in disguise) ; and afterwards gained the chief 
power as a comequencc of Irish inimigration, upon which the bishops Iccame arro- 
gant and autocratic, and the Province was, practically, governed from Cathedral 
Hill. The great pile of religious buildings then erected on this conunanding height 
cost over ^500,000, and the present revenues of the diocese are princely in amount, 
being collected by the priests, who board the arriving fishing- vessels and assess their 
people. The Irish Catholics form a great majority of the citizens of St. John's. 

Near the cathedral are the old barracks of the Eo3-al Newfoundland 
Companies and the garrisons from the British army. The lifililari/ Road 
runs along the crest of the heights, and aflbrds pleasant views over the 
harbor. On this road is the Colonial Building, a substantial structure 
of gray stone, well retired from tlie carriage-way, and adorned with a 
massive portico of Doric columns upholding a pediment which is occupied 
by the Royal Arms of Great Britain and Ireland. The colonial legi.-lature 
meets in this building, and occupies plain but comfortable halls. The 
Government House is N. of the Colonial Building, and is the official ni..n- 
siou of the governor of the Province. 

It was built in 1828-30, and cost m"? 240.0(10 The 
surrounding grounds are plea.santly diversilied with groves, flower-beils, 
and walks, and are much visited by the aristocracy of St. John's, during,' 
the sliort but brilliant summer season. 



ST. JOHN'S. Route 5'J. 193 

Passing out through the poor suburb called " Maggotty Cove," a walk 
of about 20 minutes leads to the top of * Signal Hill. 

" Higrh above, on our r., a ruined monolith, on a mountain-peak (Crow'.s Nest), 
marks the site oif an old battery, while to the 1., sunk in a hoIloNv, a black bog lies 
sheltered amid the bare bones uf mother earth, here mainly composed of dark red 
sandstones and conglomerate, pissing down by regular gradations to the slate below. 
A sudden turn of the ro.id reveals a deep solitary tarn, some 3JU ft. above the sea, 
in which the guardian rocks reflect their purple faces, and where the ripple of the 
muskrat, hurrying across, alone disturbs the placid surface. We pass a hideous- 
looking barrack, and, crossing the soft velvety sward on the crest, reach a little bat- 
tery, from the parapets of which we look down down, almost 500 ft. perpendicu- 
lariv, right into ' the Narrows,' the strait or creek between the hills connecting the 
broad .Ulan tic with the oval harbor within. The great south-side hills, covered 
with luxuriant wild vegetation, and skeined with twisting torrents, loom across the 
strait so close that one might fmcy it almost possible a stone could Hy from the 
hand to the oppo.<ite shore On our left the vast ocean, with nothing — not a rock 
— between us and Galway ; on our right, at the other end of the narrow neck of 
water directly beneath, the inner basin, expanding towards the city, with t.ie back- 
ground of blue hills as a setting to the picture, broken only in their continuous out- 
line by the twin towers of the Catholic cathedral, ever thus from all points perform- 
ing their mission of couspicuity. Right below us, 400 ft. perpendicular, we lean 
over the grass parapet and look carefully down into the little battery guarding the 
narrowest part of the entering-strait, where, in the old wars, heavy chains stretched 

from shore to shore The Narrows are full of fishing-boats returning with the 

silver spoils of the diy glistening in the hold of the smacks, which, to the number 
of forty or fifty at a time, tack and fill like a fleet of white swans against the western 
evening breeze Even as we look down on the decks, they come, and still tliey come, 
round the bluff point of Fort Amherst, from the bay outside." (Lt.-COL McCre.\.) 

"After dinner we set oif for Signal Hill, the grand observatory of the country, 

both by nature and art Litt.e rills rattled by ; paths wound among rocky 

notches and grassy chasms, and le I out to dizzy ' over-looks " and ' short-ofFs.' The 
town with its thousand smokes sat in a kind of amphitheatre, and seemed to enjoy 

the spectacle of sails a d colors in the hai'bor We struck into a fine mihtary 

road, and passed spacious stone barracks, soldiers and soldiers' families, goats and 
little gardens. From the observatory, situated on the craggy peninsula, both the 
rugged interior and the expanse of ocean were before us." (Noble.) 



" Britones et Normani anno a Cliristo nato MCCCCCIIII. has terras invenere '' ; 
and in August, 1527, 14 sail of Norman, Breton, and Portuguese vessels were shel- 
tered in the harbor of St. John's. In 1542 the Sieur de Roberval, Viceroy of New 
France, entered here with 3 ships and 200 colonists bound for Quebec, lie found 17 
vessels at anchor in the harbor, and soon afterward there arrived Jacques Cartier 
and the Quebec colonists, discouraged, and returning to France Kolierval ordered 
him back, but he stole out of the harbor during the darkness of night and returned 
to France A few years later the harbor was visited by the exploring ship Mary of 
Guilford, and the reverend Canon of St Paul, who had undertaken the unpriestly 
function of a discoverer, sent hence a chronicle of the voyage^ to Cardinal Wolsey. 

In August, 15S3, Sir Humphrey Gilbert (see page 135) entered the harbor of St. 
John's, with a tleet consisting of the Drlight, Golden Hind, Sirallow. and Squirrel. 
He took formal possession of the port and of the island of Newfoundland, receiving 
the obedience of 33 ship-masters then in the harbor. But the adventurous mari- 
ners were discontented with the rudeness of the country, and the learned Parme- 
nius wrote back to Hakluyt : " My good Hakluyt, of the manner of this country 
what shall 1 say, when I see nothing but a very wilderne.sse." In view of the date 
of Gilbert's occupation, Newfoundland claims the proud distinction of being the 
most ancient colony of the British Empire. In 1584 St. John's wa.s visited by the 
fleet of Sir Francis Drake, which had swept the adjacent seas and left a line of burn- 
ing wrecks behind. 

In 1696 the town was so strongly guarded that it easily repulsed the Chevalier 
Nesmond, who attacked it with ten French men-of-war. The expedition of_the 
daring Iberville was more successful, and occupied the place. In ^'ovember, 1704, 
9 M 



194: Route 52. ST. JOHN'S. 

a fleet from Quebec landed a French and Indian force at Placentia, whence they 
advanced about the middle of January. They were about 400 strong, and crossed 
the Peninsula of Avalon on snow-shoes. The town of Bay Bulls (BebouUt) surren- 
dered on their approach, and a long and painful midwinter march ensutd, over the 
mountains and through the deep snows. The French militia of Placentia were sent 
in at dawn to surprise the fort at St. John's, but could not enter the woiks for lack 
of scaling-ladders ; so they contented themselves with occupying the town and 
Quiddy Viddy. The fort was now besieged for 33 days, in a se;"Son of intense cold, 
when even the harbor was frozen over; but the English held out valiantly, and 
showered balls and bombs upon the town, finally succeeding in dislodging the en- 
emy and putting them in full retreat. 

In June, 1762, the Count d'Hausonville entered the Bay Bulls with a powerful 
French fleet, consisting of the Robvste, 74; L'Eveille, 64; La Garonne, 44; and 
La Licorne, 30. He escorted several transports, whence 1,500 toldiers were landed. 
This force marched on St. John's, which surrendered on summons, together with 
the English frigate Grammont. Lord Colville's fleet hastened up from Halifax and 
blockaded Admiral Be Ternay in the harbor of St. John, while land forces were de- 
barked at Torbay and Quiddy Viddy. The last-named detachment (Royal Ameri- 
cans and Highlanders) proceeded to storm .the works on Signal Hill, but the French 
fought desperately, and held them at bay until the English forces from Torbay came 
in and succeeded in carrying the entire line of heights. In the mean time, a dense 
fog had settled over the coast, under whose protection De Ternay Jed his squadron 
through the British line of blockade, and gained the open sea. In 1796 a formidable 
French fleet, under Admiral Richery (consisting of 7 line-of-battle ships and several 
frigates), menaced St. John's, then commanded by Admiral Sir James Wallace. 
Strong batteries were erected along the Narrows ; fire-ships were drawn up in the 
harbor ; a chain was stretched across the entrance ; and the entire body of the 
people was tailed under arms. The hostile fleet blockaded the port for many days, 
but was kept at bay by the batteries on Signal Hill ; and after an ineffectual attempt 
at attack, sailed away to the S. Feb. 12, 1816, a disastrous fire occurred at St. 
John's, by which 1,500 persons were left homeless ; and great suffering would have 
ensued had it not been for the citizens of Boston, who despatched a ship loaded with 
provisions and clothing for gratuitous distribution among the impoverished people. 
Nov. 7, 1817, another terrible fire occurred here, by which f 2,000,000 worth of 
property was destroyed; and this was followed, within 2 weeks, by a third dis- 
astrous conflagration. This succession of calamities came near resulting in the 
abandonment of the colony, and the people were goaded by hunger to a succession 
of deeds of crime and to organized violations of the laws. In 1825 the first highway 
was built (from St. John's to Portugal Cove) ; in 1833 the first session of the Colonial 
Parliament was held ; and the first steamship in the Newfoundland waters arrived 
here in 1840. 

In 1860 the city was convulsed by a terrible riot, arising from politico-i'eligious 
causes, and threatening wide ruin. An immense mob of armed Irishmen attacked 
and pillaged the stores on Water St., and filled the lower town with rapine and I'ob- 
bery. The ancient organization called the Royal Newfoundland Con. panics was 
ordered out and posted near the Market House, where the troops suffered for hours 
the gibes of the plunderers, until they were fired upon jn the twilight, when 
they returned a point-blank volley, which caused a sad carnage in the insurgent 
crowd. Then the great Cathedral bells rang out wildly, and .summoned all the 
rioters to that building, whei-e the Bishop exhorted them to peace and forbearance, 
under pain of excommunication. After a remarkable interview, the next day, be- 
tween the Bishop and Gov. Sir Alexander Bannerman, this tragical revolt was 
ended. 

In 1870 St. John's had 21 sailing-vessels and 6 steamers engaged in the sealing 
business, and their crews amounted to 1584 men. In 1869 (the latest accessible 
statistics) 688 vessels, with a tonnage of 109,043 tons, and employing 5,466 men, en- 
tered this port ; and in the same year there were cleared hence 577 vessels, with 
4,937 aien. 

St. John's has 4 foundries, 3 biscuit bakeries, 2 tobacco factories, a nail factory, a 
shoe factor}', a rope-walk, and one of the finest graving-doclvs in tiic world. 

The new railroad, the first to be built in Newfoinidiand, now runs troui St. Jolin's 
to Holy rood, 65 M., and to Harbor Grace, 85 M., and (.'arbono.ir, 93 .M. It is being 
built by a New-York company, and will be extended as rapidh as possible to tue 
copper-mines at Hall s hay, 3-40 .VI. distant, opening up a v.uuabie nnning and farm- 
ing country. It will cost iff 3,000,OOU, and the lompany receives a subsidy o^ 
$185,000 a year for (35 years, and a laud-grant of 1,(00,00U acres. 



PORTUGAL COVE. Route 53. 195 



63. The Environs of St. John's. 

'* On either side of the city of St. .John"!*, stretohing in a seuiioirclc along the rug- 
ged cojist, at au average radius from tije centre of 7 or 8 M., a number of little fish- 
ing-coves or bays attract, during the sweet and enjoyable sununer, iUl per.><on,s who 
can command tlie use of a horse to revel in their bjeauties. Kach little bay is but a 
slice of the high clitfs .-^cooped out by the friction of the mighty pressure of the At- 
lantic waves ; and leading down to its shingled beach, each boasts of a lovely green 
valley through which infallibly a tumbling noisy trout-buru pours back the Wl?.ter8 
evaporated from the parent surface."' (Lt.-Col. McCre.v ) 

The country about the capital is not naturally productive, but has been made to 
bring forth fruit and vegetables by careful labor, and now supports a considerable 
farming population. The roads are fine, Ijeing for the most part inacadamized and 
free from mud. 3 M. beyond the city is the Lunatic Asylum, pleasantly situated ia 
a small forest. 

Quiddy- llddy Lake is frequently visited by the people of St. John's. 
The favorite drive is to Portugal Cove, over a road that has been de-r 
scribed as possessing a "sad and desolate beauty." This road passes the 
Windsor Lake, or Twenty-Mile Pond, " a large picturesque slieet of water, 
with some pretty, lonely-looking islands." The inn at Portugal Cove 
looks out on a handsome cascade, and is a favorite goal fur wedding-tours 
from St. John's. Barges run from St. John's to Topsail. 

" The scenery about Portugal Cove well repays the ride of nearly 10 M. on a good 
road from St. John's. It is wildly romantic, and just before entering the viljage is 
very beautiful. A succession of lofty hills on each side tower over the road, and 
shut out everything but their conical or mammillated peaks, covered with wild 
stunted forest and bold masses of rock, breaking through with a tiny waterfall from 
the highest, which in winter hangs down in perpendicular ridges of yellow ice. 
Turning suddenly out of one of the wildest scenes, you cross a little bridge, and the 
romantic scattered village is hanging over the abrupt rocky shore, with its fish-flakea 
and busy little anchorage open to tlie sight, closed in the distance by the shores of 
Conception Bay, lofty- and blue, part of which are concealed by the picturesque Belle 
Isle." (Sir R. Bonnvc.vstl":.) 

" On approaching Portugal Cove, the eye is struck by the serrated and picturesque 
outline of the hills which run along the coast from it towards Cape St. Francis, 
and pre.sently delighted with the wild beauty of the little valley or glen at the mouth 
of which the cove is situated. The road winds with several turns down the side of 
the valley, into which some small brooks hurry their waters, flashing in the sun- 
shine as they leap over the rocks and down the ledges, through the dark green of 
the wood?. On turning the shoalder of one of the hill-slopes, the view opens upoa 
Concepion Bay, with the rocky points of the cove immediately below." (Prop. 

JUK^S.) 

Another favorite excursion is to Virginia Water, the former summer 
residence of the governors of Newfoundland. It is reached by way of 
the King's Bridge and the pretty little Quiddy-Viddy Lake, beyond which 
the Bailyhaly Bog is crossed, and the carriage reaches the secluded domain 
of Virginia Water. It is situated on a beautiful lake of deep water, 3 M. 
in circumference, " indented with little grass-edged bays, fringed and 
feathered to the limpid edge with dark dense woods." Beyond this point 
the drive maybe protracted to Logie Bay, a small cove between projecting 
cliffs, with bold and striking shore scenery. Logie Bay is 4 ]\I., and Tor- 
bay is 8-9 M. from St. John's, by a fine road which crosses the high and 
mossy barrens, and affords broad sea-views from the cliffs. The country 
is thinly settled, and is crossed by severaj trout-brooks. 



196 Route 54. TORBAY. 

Logie Bay is remarkable for the wildness of its rock and cliff scenery. " Nothing 
like a beach is to be found anywhere on this coast, the descent to the sea being 
always difficult and generally impracticable. In Logie Bay the thick-bedded dark 
sandstones and conglomerates stand bold and bare in round-topped hills and preci- 
pices 3-400 ft. in height, with occasional fissures traversing their jagged cliffs, 
and the boiling waves of the Atlantic curling around their feet in white eddies or 
leaping against their sides witb huge spouts of foam and spray." (Prof. Jukes.) 

"Torbay is an arm of the sea, — a short, strong arm with a slim hand and finger, 
reaching into the rocky laud and touching the waterfalls and rapids of a pretty 
brook. Here is a little village, with Romish and Protestant steeples, and the dwell- 
ings of fishermen, with the universal appendages of fishing-houses, boats, and flakes. 
One seldom looks upon a hamiet so picturesque and wild." On the N. shore of the 
bay is a long hne of cliffs, 3-400 ft. high, surf-beaten and majestic, and finely 
ol'Served by taking a boat out from Torbay and coasting to the N. "At one point, 
where the rocks recede from the main front and form a kind of headland, the strata, 
6-8 ft. thick, assume the form of a pyramid, from a broad base of a hundred yards 
or more running up to meet in a point. The heart of this vast cave has partly 
fallen out, and left the resemblance of an enormous tent with cavernous recesses 
and halls, in which the shades of evening were already lurking, and the surf was 
sounding mournfully. Occasionally it was musical, pealing forth like the low tones 
of a great organ with awful solemnity. Now and then, the gloomy silence of a min- 
ute was broken by the crash of a billow far within, when the reverberations were 
like the slamming of great doors." 

" After passing this grand specimen of the architecture of the sea, there appeared 
long rocky reaches, like Egyptian temples, old dead cliffs of yellowish gray checked 
off by lines and seams into squares, and having the resemblance, where they have 
fallen out into the ocean, of doors and windows opening in upon the fresher stone." 
(Noble.) 

54. The Strait Shore of Avalon. — St John's to Cape Eace. 

That portion of the Peninsula of Avalon which fronts to the eastward on the 
Atlantic has been termed the Strait Shore, on account of its generally undeviating 
line of direction. Its outports may be visited cither by the Friday mail-con- 
veyance, through Petty Harbor, Bay Bulls, Ferr^land, and Renewse, or by the 
Western Coastal steamer (see Route 60). 

Distances by Koad. — St. John's to Blackhead. 4 M. ; Petty Haibor, 10; 
Bay Bulls, 19; Witless Bay, 22; Mobile, 24; Toad Cove, 26; La Mancbe, 32; 
Brigus, 34; Cape Broyle, 38; Caplin Cove, 42; Ferry land, 44 ; Aquafort, 48; Fer- 
meuse, 51 ; Renewse, 54 ; Cape Race, 64. 

" The road, one of the finest I ever saw, — an old-fashioned English gravel-road, 
smooth and hard almost as iron, a very luxury for the wheels of a springless wagon, 
— keeps up the bed of a small river, a good-sized trout-stream, flowing from the in- 
land valley into the harbor of St John's. Contrasted with the bold refiions that 
front the ocean, these valleys are soft and fertile. We passed sn ootU meadows, and 
sloping plough-lands, and green pastures, and houses peeping out of pretty groves. 
One might have called it a Canadian or New-Hampshire vale." The road passes 
several lakelets and trout-streams, and gives fine views of the ocean on the 1., being 
also one of the most smooth and firmly built of highways. " No nation makes such 
roads as these, in a land bristhng with rugged difficulties, that has not wound its 
way up to the summit of power and cultivation." The hills along the coast closely 
resemble the Cordillera peaks ; and from the bald summits on the W. , Trinity Bay 
may be seen. 

The mail-road running S. from St. John's passes Waterfovd Bridge and 
soon approaches BlacMead, a Catholic village near an iron-bound s^hore 
whose great cliffs have been worn into fantastic shapes by the crash and 
attrition of the Athmtic surges. Near this place is Cape Spear, the most 
easterlj' point of North America, 1,656 M. from Valentia Ray. in Ireland. 
On the summit of the cape, 264 ft. above the sea, is a red-and-white striped 
tower sustaining a revolving light which is visible for 22 M. 



BAY BULLS. Route 5',. 197 

The road now passes between " woody banks running through an un- 
duhiting country but half reclaimed on the r., while on the 1. the slopes 
{^tretch up to the breezy headlands, beyond which there is nothing but sea 
and cloud from this to Europe." Petty Harbor is 4 M. S. W. of Cape 
Spear and 10 M. from St. John's, and is a village of 900 inhabitants, Avitli 
a refinery of cod-liver oil and long lines of evergreen fish-flakes. Off this 
point H. B. M. frigate Tweed was wrecked in 1814, and GO men were 
ilrowned. The houses of Petty Harbor are situated in a narrow glen at 
the foot of frowning and barren ridges. The harbor at the foot of tl)i3 
ravine is small and insecure. The dark hills to the W. attain a height of 
700 ft. along the unbroken shore which leads S. to Bay Bulls; and at 
about 4 ]\I. from Pe'ty Harbor is the * Spout, a deep cavern in the sea- 
ward cliffs, in whose top is a hole, through which, at high tide and in a 
heavy sea, the water shoots up every half-minute in a roaring fountain 
-vhich is seen 3 M. off at sea. The road now approaches lonclay Hill (810 
ft. high), the chief elevation on this coast, and reaches Bay Bulls, a village 
of 700 inhabitants. This is one of the most important of the outports, and 
affords a refuge to vessels that are unable, on account of storms cr ice, to 
make the harbor of St. John's. There are several farms near the bay, but 
most of the inhabitants are engaged m the cod-fishery, which is carried 
on from large open boats. This ancient settlement was exposed to great 
vicissitudes during the conflicts between the French and the English for 
the possession of Newfoundland, and was totally destroyed by Admiral 
Eichery (French) in 1796. Fine sporting is found in this vicinity, all along 
shore, and shooting-parties leave St. John's during the season for severa\ 
days' adventure hereabouts. 

In 1696 the French frigates Pelican, Diamant, Count de Toulouse, Vendange, 
Philippe, and Harcourt met the British man-of-war Sapphire off Cape Spear, and 
chased it into Bay Bulls. A naval battle vf several hours' duration was closed by 
the complete discomfiture of the British, v/ho set fire to the shattered Sapphire and 
abandoned her. The French sailors boarded her immediately, but were destroyed 
by the explosion of the magazine. 

Witless Bay is the next village, and has nearly 1,000 inhabitants, with a 
large and prominent Catholic church. Cod-fishing is carried on to a great 
extent off this shore, also off ]Mobile, the next settlement to the S. Beyond 
the rock-bound hamlets of Toad Cove, La Manche, and Brigus, the road 
reaches Cape Broyle. 

In 1628 Cape Broyle was captured by Admiral de la Rade, with three French war- 
vessels, who also took the fishing-fleet" then in the harbor. But Sir George Calvert 
sent from the capital of Avalon two frigates (one of which carried 24 guns) and sev- 
ral hundred men, on whose approach " the French let slip their cables, and made 
o sea as fast as they could." Calvert's men retaliated by harrying the French 
stations at Trepassey, where they captured six ships of Bayonne and St. Jean 
de Luz. 

Cape Broyle is a prosperous fishing-settlement on Broyle Harbor, near 

the mountainous headland of Cape Broyle (552 ft. high). There is good 

salmon-fisliing on the river which runs S. E. to the harbor from the foot 

of Hell Hill 



198 Route 64. FERRYLANT>. 

Ferryland is 2 M. beyond the Caplin-C<^-e settlement, and is the capi- 
tal of the district of Ferryland. It has about 1,000 inhabitants, and is well 
located on level ground near the head of the harbor. In the immediate 
vicinity are several prosperous farms, and picturesque scenery surrounds 
the harbor on all sides. To the S. E. is Ferryland Head, on which is a 
fixed white light, 200 ft. above the sea, and visible for 16 M. Off this point 
are the slender spires of rock called the Hart's Ears, projecting from the 
sea to the height of 50 ft. 

la 1614 (1622) King James I. granted the great peninsula between Trinity and 
Placentia Bays to Sir George Calvert, then Secretary of State. The grantee named 
his new domain Avalon, in honor of the district where Christian tradition claims 
that the Gospel was first preached in Britain (the present Glastonbury). It ^vas de- 
signed to found here a Christian colony, with the broadest principles of toleration 
and charity. Calvert sent out a considerable company of settlers, under the govern- 
ment of Capt. Wynne, and a colony was planted at Ferryland- The reports sent 
back to England concerning the soil and productions of the new country ■s\ere so 
favorable that Sir George Calvert and his family soon joined the colonists. Under 
his administration an equitable governm.ent was established, fortifications were 
erected, and other improvements instituted. Lord BaltiuK re had but little pleasure 
of his settlement in Avalon. He found that he had been greatly deceived about the 
climate and the nature of the soil. The Puritans also began to harass him ; and 
Erasmus Stourton, one of their ministers, not only preached dissent under his eyes 
at Ferryland, but went to England and reported to the Privy Council that Balti- 
more's priests said mass and had "all the other ceremonies of the Church of Rome, 
in the ample manner as 'tis used in Spain." Finally, after trials by storm and by 
schismatics. Lord Baltimore died (in 1632), leaving to his son Cecil, 2d Lord Balti- 
more, the honor of founding Maryland, on the grant already secured from the liing. 
In that more favored 5 outhern clime afterwards arose the great city which com- 
n;emorates and honors the name of Baltimore. 

In 1637 Sir David Kirke was appointed Count Palatine of Newfoundland, and estab- 
b'shcd himself at .Ferryland. He hoisted the royal standard on the forts, and main- 
tained a strong (and fometimes harsh) rule over the island. At the outbreak of the 
English Revolution (1642), Kirke's brothers joined King Charles's forces and fought 
bravely through the war, while Sir David strengthened his Newfoundland forts and 
established a powerful and well-armed fleet. He offered the King a safe asylum in 
his domain ; and the fiery Prince Rupert, with the royal Channel fleet, \Yas sailing 
to Newfoundland to join Kirke's forces, when he was headed off by the fleet of the 
Commonwealth, under Sir George Ayscue. After the fall of the Stuarts. Sir David 
was carried to England in a vessel of the Republic (in 1651), to be tried on various 
charges ; but he bribed Cromwell's son in-law, and vras released, returning to Ferry- 
land, where he died in 1656, after having governed the island for over 20 years. At 
a later day this town became a port of some iu'portance, and was the scene of re- 
peated naval attacks during the French wars. In 1673 it was taken and plundered 
by 4 Dutch frigates. 

In 1694 Ferryland was attacked by 2 large French frigates, carrying 90 guns, 
which opened a furious cannonade on the town. But the fi'illiam and Mary, 16, 
was lying in the hai'bor, with 9 merchant-ships, and their crews built batteries at 
the harbor-mouth, whence, with the guns of the privateer, they inflicted such dam- 
age on the enemy that they withdrew, after a 5 hours' cannonade, having lost 
about 90 men. In 1762 the powerful French fleet of Admiral de Ternay was driven 
otf by a battery on Bois Island. 

Aquafort lies S. W. of Ferryland, and is a smoll hamlet situated on a 
long, deep, and narrow harbor embosomed in lofty hills. The next setde- 
ment is Fermense, with 600 inhabitants and a Catholic church and convent. 
It is on the shore of Admiral's Cove, in the deep and secure harbor of 
Fermeuse, and the people are engaged in the cod and salmon fisheries. 
Eenewse is an ancient and decadent port 16 M, S. of Ferryland, situated on 



CAPE RACE. Route 54. 199 

an indifferent harbor •which lies between Burnt Point and Renewse Head. 
3-4 M. inland are the rugjred hummocks called the Red Hills, whence 
the eastern hill ranp:e runs 30 M. N. acn)ss Avalon to Holyrood. 

6-8 M. from Renewse are the tall and shaggy hills called the Rutterpots, 
which comniaiul broad views over Avalon, and from Bay Hulls to tlie \\". shore of 
Trepas!:ey Bay. The Butterpots of Holyrood are also seen from ttiis point ; audProf. 
Jukes counted SO lakes in sight from the main peak (which is 955 ft. high). 

S. of this point extends a fatal iron-bound coast, on which scores of vessels, veiled 
in impenetrable fog or swept inward by resi.<tless storms, have been dashed in pieces. 
A very slight error in reckoning will throw vessels hound S of Cape Race upon thi.s 
shore, and then, if th(! Cajjc R;ice and Ferryland lights are wrapped in the dense 
black fog peculiar to the.^e waters, the ch:iuces of di.saster are great. The erection 
of a fog-whistle on the cape has greatly lessened the ptuils of navigation here. The 
ocean steamships J/i^'o-Sajro?}, Argo, -JiUil City of Pnilar/elphia were lost on Cape 
Race. 

Cape Race is the S. E. point of XewfounJland, and is a rugged head- 
land of black slaty rock thrown up in vertical strata. It is provided with 
a powerful light, 180 ft, above the sea, and visible for 15 M. The great 
pohir current sweeps in close by the cape and turns around it to the 
W. N. W., forming, together with the ordinary tides and the baj^-currents, 
a complexity of streams that causes many wrecks. 

Icebergs are to be seen off this shore at almost all seasons, and the dense fogs are 
often illumined by the peculiar white glare which precedes them. Field-ice is also 
common here during the spring and early summer, but is easily avoided by the 
warning of the "ice blink." Throughout the summer and autumn the fog broods 
over this shore almost ince.'santly, and vessels are navigated by casting the lead and 
following the soundings which are marked out with such precision on the Admi- 
ralty charts. 6 M. E. of Cape Race is the Ballard Bank, which is 18 M. long and 
2 - 12 M. wide, with a depth of water of 15 26 fathoms. 

Cape Race is distant, by great-circle sailing, from New York, 1,010 M. ; Boston, 
820: Portland, 779: St. John, N. B., 715; Halifax, 4f)3; Miramichi, 492: Quebec, 
836; Cape Clear, 1,713; Galway, 1,721 ; Liverpool, 1,970. 

The Grand Banks of Newfoundland are about 50 M. E. of Cape Race. 
Tiiey extend for 4 degrees N. and S. and 5 degrees E. and W. (at 45° N. 
latitude) running S. to a point. They consist of vast submerged sand- 
banks, on which the water is from 30 to 60 fathoms deep, and are strewn 
with shells. Here are found innumerable codfish, generally occupying 
the shallower waters over the sandy bottoms, and feeding on the shoals of 
smaller fish below. They pass out into the deeper -waters late in Novem- 
ber, but return to the Banks in February, and fatten rapidly. Immense 
fleets are engaged in the fisheries here, and it is estimated that over 
100,000 men are dependent on this industry. 

Throughout a great part of the spring, summer, and fall, the Grand Banks are 
covered by rarely broken fo.'S, through which falls an almost incessant slow rain. 
Sometimes these fogs ai-e so dense that objects within 60 ft. are totally invisible, at 
which times the fi.shing-vessels at anchor are liable to be run down by the great 
Atlantic steamers. The dangerous proximity of icebergs (which drift across and 
ground on the Banks) is indicated by the sudden and intense coldness which they 
send through even a midsummer day, by the peculiar white glare in the air about 
them, and by the roaring of the breakers on their sides. 

It was on the Grand Banks, not far from Cape Race, that the first battle of the 
Seven Years' War was fought. June 8, 1755, the British 60-guu frigates Dunkirk 



200 Route 55. THE GRAND BANKS. 

and Defiance were cruising about in a dense fog, when they met the French men-of- 
war Alr.ide and Lys. For five hours the battle continued, and a continual can- 
nonade was kept up between the hostile ships. The French were overmatched, but 
fought valiantly, inflicting heavy losses on the assailants (the Dunkirk alone lo:-t 90 
men). When they finally surrendered, the Lys was found to contain $400,000 in 
specie and 8 companies of infantry. 

The vicinity of Cape Race was for some time the cruising-ground of the XJ. S. 
frigate Constitution, in 1812, and in these waters she captured the Adiona, the Ade- 
line, and other vesFels. 

Near the edge of the Grand Bank (in lat. 41° 41' N., long 55° 18' W) occurred 
the famous sea-fight between the Constitution and the Gtierriere, whose result filled 
the United States with rejoicing, and impaired the prestige of the British navy. On 
the afternoon of Aug. 19, 1812, the Constitution sighted the Giierricre, and bore 
down upon her with double-shotted batteries. The British ship was somewhat in- 
ferior in force, but attacked the American with the confidence of victory. The Con- 
stitution received several broadsides in silence, but when within half pistol-shot dis- 
charged her tremendous batteries, and followed with such a fire of deadly precision 
that the Guerriere was soon left a dismasted and shattered wreck. The British ship 
then surrendered, having lost 101 men in the action, while her antagonist lost but 
14.. The Guerriere had 38 guns, and the Constitution had 44. 

55. St. John's to Labrador. — Northern Newfoundland. 

Distances. St. John's to Old Perlican, 47 M. ; Trinity, 68 : Catalina, 87 ; Bona- 
vi^ta, 107; King's Cove, 116; (ireenspond, 148 ; b'ogo, 214; Twilhngate, 232; Ex- 
ploits, 249 ; Little Bay Islaud. 284; Little Bay, 293; Nipper's Harbor, 306 ; Betts 
Cove, 309; Tilt Cove, 317; Coachman's Cove, 349; Conche, 399; St. Anthony, 
435; Griguet, 450; Battle Harbor, 494; Spear Harbor, 506; Francis H.rbor 
Bight, 518; Dead Island, 533; Venison Island, 541; Punch Bowl, 553; Batteaux, 
563; Indian Tickle, 578 ; Grady, 601; Long Island, 608 ; Pack's Harbor. 621 ; Kigo- 
lette, 676; Indian Harbor, 659 ; Brig Harbor, 665; Holtou, 671; Cape Harrison, 
703; Bagged Harbor, 710; Adnavick, 726; Mauuoek's Island, 740; Nack, 763; 
Turnavick, 768 ; Cape Harrigan, 818. 

Labrador Coast of Strait of Belle Isle. — St. John's to Battle Harbor, 494 M. ; 
Cape Charles, 500; Chimney 'iickle, 504; Chateau, 517 ; Red Bay, 544; Lance-au- 
Loup, 664; Forteau, 570 ; Blanc Sablon, 580 ; Salmon River, 601. 

'I he Northern mail-steamer leaves St. John's, N. F., every alternate Monday dur- 
ing the season of navigation, and visits the chief outports on theN. coast (so-called). 
The fares are as follows: St. John's to Bay-de-Verds, 10s., — steerage, 6 s.; to 
Trinity, 20 s. , — steerage, 10 s. ; to Bonavista, 27 s. 6 d. , — steerage. 14 s. ; to Greens- 
pond, "30 s..— steerage, 15 s. ; to Fogo, 32 s. 6d. ; to Twilhngate, 35 s. ; to Exploits 
Island, 37 s. 6 d. ; to Tilt Cove, Bett's Cove, or Nipper's Harbor, 40 a. At its most 
northerly port the steamer meets the Hercules, the Labrador mail-steamer. 

The fare on the Labrador steamer is $2 a day. which includes both passage and 
meals. The northern boats are powerful and seaworthy, but the fare at their 
tables is necessarily of the plainest kind. The time which will lie required for the 
Labrador trip is nearly four weeks (from St. John's back to St John's again). The 
expense is about .^50 The journev should be begun before the middle of July, in 
order to avail of the short summer in these high latitudes It would be prudent 
for gentlemen who desire to make this tour to write e rly in the season to the agents 
of the steamship lines, to assure themselves of due connections and to learn other 
particulars Mr J. Taylor Wood is the agent at Halifax for the steamer from that 
port to St John's : and Bowring Brothers, St. John's, N. F., are the agents for the 
Northern Coastal Line. 

Passinij out between the stern and frowning portals of the harbor of St. 
John's, the steamer soon takes a northerly course, and opens the indenta- 
tion of Lnr/ie Bay on the W. (see pai^e 196). After running by tlie tali 
cliffs of Sugar Loaf and Red Head (700 ft. high), Torbay is seen opening 
to the W., within which is the village of the same name. 



TRINITY. Route 55. 201 

About 8 il. beyond Torbay, the white shore of Cape St. Francis is seen 
on the port bow, and, if the water is rough, the great breakers may be 
seen whitening over the rocks which are callecl the Brandies. The course , 
is now hiid across tiie mouth of Conception Bay, wliich is seen extending 
to the S. W. for 30 M. 18 il. from Cape St. Francis, and about 40 j\I. from 
St. John's, the steamer passes between Bay Verd Hea 1 and Split Point, 
and stops on" 5r/?/ Verd, a village of about GOO inhabitants, situated on a 
broad and unsheltered bight of the sea. The fishing-grounds in this vicin- 
ity are among the best on the American coast, and attract large fleets of 
Doats and schooners. The attention of the villagers is divided between 
f:n-mingand fishing, the latter industry being by far tlie most hicrative. 
Roads lead out from Bay Verd S. to Carbonear and Harbor Grace (see 
Route 56), and N. W. to the settlements on Trinity Bay. Soon after 
leaving Bay Verd, the steamer passes Baccalieu Island, a high and ridgy 
land 3^ M. long, and nearly 2 M. from the main. On its N. end is a pow- 
erful flasliiiig light, elevated 443 ft. above the sea, and visible for 24 M. 

Although Cabot was the first professional discoverer (if the term may be used) to 
visit and explore the shores of Newfoundland, there is no doubt that these waters 
had long been the resort of the fishiug-tieets of the Normans, Bretons, and Basques. 
Lescarbot claims that they had fished off these snores "for many centuries," and 
Cabot applied the name "Biccalaos" to the country because "in the seas there- 
about he found so great multituJei of certain bi^ge fishes, much like unto Tunnies 
(which the inhabitants call Barcalaos), th it t.iey sometimes stayed his shippes." 
liaccalaos is the ancient Basque name for codfish, and its extensive use by the 
natives in pla^ e of their own word Ai>ege, meaning the same thing, is held as con- 
clusive proof that they had been mucii in communication with Basque fishermen 
before the arrival of Cabot. Cabot give this name to the continent as far as he 
explored it, but in the map of 1J40 it is applied only to the islet which now re- 
tains it. 

On her alternate trips the vessel rounds in al)out Grates Point, and stops 
at Old Perlican {see Route 57). Otherwise, it runs across the mouth of 
Trinity Bay for abont 20 M., on a N. W. course, and enters the harbor of 
Trinity, 115 M. from St. John's. The entrance is bold and imposing, and 
the harbor is one of the best on the island, atfordmg a land-locked anchor- 
age for the largest fleets. It is divided into two arms by a high rocky 
peninsula (380 ft. higli), on whose S. side are the wharves and houses of 
the town. Trinity has about 1,500 inhabitants, and is a port of entry and 
the capital of the district of Trinity. Considerable farming is done in tlie 
coves near the head of the harbor. Roads lead out to the S. shore (see 
Route 57), and also to Salmon Cove, 5 j\I ; English Harbor, 7; Ragged 
Harbor, 16; and Catalina, 20. 

On leaving Trinity Harbor, the course is S. E until Green Bay Head 
and the Horse Chops are passed, when it turns to the N. E., and runs along 
within sight of a high and cliffy shore. Beyond the Ragged Isles is seen 
Green Island, w'here there is a fixed white light, visible for 15 M., around 
which (through rough water if the wind is E.) the vessel passes, threading 
a labyrintli of shoals and rocks, and enters the harbor of Catalina, re- 
9* 



202 Roide 55. BONA VISTA. 

markable for its sudden and frequent intermittent tides. The town of 
Catalina iias 1,300 inhabitants, with 2 churches, of which that of the Epis- 
copalians is a fine piece of architecture, though built of wood. The main 
part of the settlement is on the W. side of the harbor, and has a consider- 
able maritime trade. The adjacent waters abound in salmon, and deli- 
cious edible whelks are found on the I'ocks. Besides the highway to 
Trinity (20 M.), a rugged road leads N. to Bonavista in 10 M. Catalina 
was visited hi 1534 by Cartier, who named it St. Catherine. 

On leaving Catalina Harbor, North Head is passed, and after running 
N. E. by N. 3 M. Flowers Head is left on the port bow. About 2 M. be- 
yond, the Bird Islets are seen on the 1., near which is the fishing-settlement 
oi Bird Island Cove (670 inhabitants), with its long and handsome beach. 
A short distance inland is seen the Burnt Ridge, a line of dark bleak hills 
rising to a height of 500 ft The Dollarman Bank, famous for codfish, is 
now ci'ossed, and on the 1. is seen Cape Largent and Spiller Point, off" which 
are the precipitous and tower-like *" Spiller Rocks, surrounded by the sea. 
The steamer now passes Cape Bonavista, on which is a red-and-white 
flashing-1 ght, 150 ft. above the sea, and visible for 15 M. 

The re-discovery of Newfoundland (after the Northmen's voyages 5 centuries he- 
fore) was effected in June, 1497, by Cabot, a Venetian m the service of Henry 
VII. of England, sailing in the ship Matthew, of Bristol He gave the name of Bona 
Vista (" Fair View "), or Prima Vista (" First View "), to the first point of the coast 
Tvhich he saw, and that name has since been attached to this northerly cape, since 
it is believed that this was the location of the new-found shore. (The reader of Bid- 
die's "Memoirs of Sebastian Cabot " will, however, be much puzzled to know what 
point, if any, Cabot actually saw on these coasts.) The rocks and shoals to the N. 
are prolific in fish, and are visited by great flotillas of boats. 

After rounding the light, the steamer enters Bonavista Bay, a great 
bight of the sea extending between Capes Bonavista and Freels, a dis- 
tance of 37 M. About 4 M. S. W. of the cape, the steamer enters the har- 
bor of Bonavista, an ancient marine town with 3,500 inhabitants and 3 
churches. It is the capital of the district of the same name, and is also a 
port of entry, having a large and increasing coinmerce. The harbor is 
not secure, and during long N. W. gales the sea breaks heavily across the 
entrance. The Episcopal church is a fine building in English Gothic 
architecture, but the houses of the town are generally mean and small. 
Considerable farm ng is done on the comparatively fertile lands in the 
vicinity, and it is claimed that the climate is much more genial and the 
air more clear than on the S. shores of the island. The tov^ai is 146 M. 
from St John's, and is 30 M. by road from Trinity and 10 M. from Catalina. 
It is one of the most ancient settlements on the coast, and signalized itself 
in 1696 by beating off the French fleet which had captured St. John's and 
ravaged the S. coasts. 



BONAVISTA BAY. Route 55. 203 

Bonnnsta Bay. 

A road leads S. W from Bonavista to Birchy Cove, 9 M. ; Amherst Cove, 12; 
King's Cove, 20 ; Keels Cove, 2G ; Tickle Cove, 33 ; Open Hole, 3d ; Plate Cove, 38 ; 
and Indian Ann, 43. 

Kins:'s Corf is a village of Labrador fishermen, with 550 inhabitants and 2 
churches. It is on a narrow harbor between the lofty cliffs of the coavSt range, 
throiisjcli whose pas.^es a road runs S. to Trinity in 13 M. 3 M. from King's Cove is 
Broiif} Cove village, under the shadow of the peak of Southei-n Head. Keels is 6 
JI. from King's Cove, and does a considerable lumber bu.siuess. Thence the road 
descends through Tickle Cove (2 M. from the picture-quo Red ClilT Island) to the 
three villages on the S., each of which has 2- ot'O inliabitants To the W. are the 
deep estuaries of Sweet Harbor, Clode Souud (2(t M. long) and Newman Sound (11 
M. long), penetrating the hill-country and exhibiting a succession of views of ro- 
mantic scenery and total desolation. Boats may be taken from Open Hole to Bar- 
row Harbor, a fishing settlement 10 M. N. \V., at the mouth of Newman Sound, and 
to Salvage, 16 M distant, a village of 500 inhabitants. 6 M. N. W., beyond the Bay 
of Fair and False, is Bloody Bay, a deep and narrow iulet with picturesque forest 
sceuery, extending for several miles among the hills. The name was given on ac- 
count of the frequent contlicts which here ensued between the lied Indians and the 
fishermen. At the head of the bay is the Terra Nova Kivcr, descending from the 
Terra Nova Lake, which is 15 M. dist;int, and is 12 M. long. 

The N. shore of Bonavista Bay is visited most easily from the port of Greens- 
poii'l. The communication is exclusively by boats, which may be engaged at the 
village. Nearly all the islands in the vicinity and for 10 M. to the S. \V. and S. are 
occupied bj' small communities of hardy fisliermen, and the shores of the main- 
land are indented with deep and narrow bays and sounds. To the N. are Pool's 
Island, 3 M. ; Piucher's Island, 9 ; Cobbler's Island, 10 ; and Middle Bill Cove (near 
Cape Freels), 15. To the S. and W. are the Fair Island, 7 M. ; Deer Island, 11; 
Cottel's Island (three settlements), 15 ; the Gooseberry Isles, 12 ; and Hare Bay, 23. 
The last-named place is at the entrance of Fresliwaler Bay, which runs in for about 
15 M., with deep water and bold shore*. The great northern mail-road is being 
built along the head of this bay ; a short distance from which (by the river) are the 
Gaviho Foiir/s, large lakes in the desolate interior, 23 M. long, abounding in fish. 
One of the best salmon-fisheries on the island is at the head of Indian Bay, 12 M. 
W. of Greenspond. 



On leaving Bonavista, the steamer runs N. by VV. across Bonavista Bay, 
passing the Gooseberry Isles on the port bow. After over 3 hours' run, 
the N. shore is approached, and the harbor of Greenspond is entered. 
This town contains over 1,000 inhabitants, and is situated on an island 
1 M. square, so rugged that soil for house-gardens had to be brought from 
the mainland. A large business is done here in the fisheries and the seal- 
trade, and most of the inhabitants are connected with either the one or the 
other. The entrance to the harbor is difficult, and is marked by a fixed 
red light, visible for 12 M. 

The steamer now runs N. E. and N. for about 18 M. to Cape Freels, 
pa sing great numbers of islands, some of which are inhabited by fisher- 
me , while others are the resort of myriads of sea-birds, whicli are seen 
hovering over the rocks in great flocks. Soon after passing the arid high- 
lands of Cape Freels, the course is laid to the N. W. across the opening of 
Sir Charles Hamilton's Sound, a broad and deep arm of the sea which is 
spudded with many islands. Leaving the Cape Ridge and Windmill Hill 
astern, the Penguin Islands are seen, I55 M. from Cape Freels; and 6 M. 
farther N. W. the Wadham Isles are passed, where, on a lonely and surf- 



204 Rmte 55. FOGO. 

beaten rock, is the Offer Wadham lighthouse, a circular brick tower 100 
ft. high, exhibiting a fixed wliite light, which is visible for 12 M. To the 
N. E., and well out at sea, is Funk Island, near which are good sealing- 
grounds. 

Funk Island was visited by Cartier in 1534, who named it (and the adjacent rocks) 
Les Isles des Oyseaiix. Here he saw a white bear " as large as a cow,-' which had 
swum 14 leagues from Newfoundland. "He then coasted along all the northern 
part of tint great island, and he says that you n^eet nowhere else better ports or a 
more wretched covmtry ; on every side it is nothing but frightful rocks, sterile lands 
covered with a scanty moss; no trees, but only soue bushes half dried up; that 
nevertheless he found men there well made, who wore their heir tied on the top of 
the head." The isles were again visited by Cartier in July, 1535, in the ship Grand 
Hennine. " If the soyle were as good as the harborouglies are, it were a great com- 
moditie ; but it is not to be called the new found land, but rather stones and cragges 

and :i place fit for wilde beastes In short, I believe this was the land allotted 

to Caine."' Such was the unfavorable description given by Jaques Cartier of the 
land between Cape Bonavista and the Strait of Belle Isle. 

It is supposed that either the Baccalieu or the Penguin Islands were the " Feather 
Islands,'"' which the ArinaUs Skallioltini and Li gmann s state were discovered by 
the Northmen in the year 1285- The Saga of Eric the Red tells that Leif, son of the 
Earl of Norway, visited the Labrador and Newfoundland shores in 994. "'Then 
sailed they to the land, and cast anchor, and put off boats, and went ashore, and 
saw there no grass. Great icebergs were over all up the country, but like a plain of 
flat stones was all from the sea to the mountains, and it appeared to them that this 
land had no good qualities." Leif named this country Helluland (from HeUa,a. flat 
stone), distinguishing Labrador as Helluland it Mikla. In 1288 King Eric sent the 
mariner Rolf to Iceland to call out men for a voyage to these shores ; and the name 
Nyja Land, or Nyfa Fian/u Land, was then apphed to the great island to the S., 
an(.l was probably adopted by the English (in the Anglicized form oi Neivfoundland) 
during the commercial intercourse between England and Iceland in the 15th cen- 
tury. 

9.^ M. N. W. by N , Cape For/o is approached, and is a bold promontory 
214 ft. high, terminating Fogo Island on the S. E. The course continues 
to tlie N. W. off the rugged shores of the island, and at 6j^ M. from Cape 
Fogo, Round Head is passed, and the steamer assumes a course more to 
the westward. 6-8 M. from Round Head she enters the harbor of Fogo, 
a port of entry and post-town 216 M. from St. John's The population is 
740, with 2 churches; and the town is of great local importance, being the 
depot of supplies for the fishing-stations of the N. shore. (See also Route 
58 for this and other ports in the Bay of Notre Dame.) 

"The western headlands of Fogo are exceedingly attractive, lofty, finely broken, 

of a red and purplir-h brown, tinted here and there with pale green As we p:iss 

the bold prominences and deep, narrow bays or fiords, they are continually changing 
and surprising us with a new scenery. And now the great sea-wall, on our right, 
opeus and ( incloses the harbor and village of Fogo, the cliief place of the i.^land, 
gleaming in the setting sun as if there were flames shining through the widiIows. 
Looking to the left, all the western region is one fine .lEgean, a sea fiUed with r. mul- 
titude of isles, of manifold forms and sizes, and of every height, from mountain i)yra- 
mids and crested ridges down to rounded knolls and tables, rocky ruins split and 
shattered, giant slabs sliding edgewise into the deep, columns and grotesque masses 
ruffled with curling surf, — the C^, ciades of the west. I climb the shrouds, and be- 
hold fields and lanes of water, an endless and beautiful network, a little Switzerland 
with her vales and gorges filled with the purple sea." (Noble.) 

In passing out of Fogo Harbor, tlie bold bluff of Fogo Head (345 ft. high) 
is seen on the L, back of which is Bi'imstone Head. Tlie vessel steams 



TWILLINGATE. Route 55. 205 

in to tlie "W , up the Bay of Notre Danio, soon pass'ng Fogo Head, and 
opening the Change Ishvnd Tickles on tlie S. Change Inland is then seen 
on the 1., and the course is laid across to the lofty and arid hills of Bacca- 
lieu Island. At 22 M. from Fogo the steamer enters the harbor of Twil- 
lingate (the Anglicized form of TouUnguet, the ancient French name of 
the port). The town of Twillingate is the capital of tlie district of Twil- 
lingate 

and has a population of 3,700, with 6 churches. It is situated 
on two islands, and the sections are connected by a bridge. Farming is 
carried on to a considerable extent in the vicinity, but with varying suc- 
cess, owing to the short and uncertain summers. The houses in the town 
are (as usually in the coast settlements) very inferior in appearance, 
snugness and warmth being the chief objects sought after in their archi- 
tecture. 

The finest breed of XeAvfoundland dogs were formerly found about the Twillingate 
Isles, and were generally distinguished by tlieir deep black color, with a white cross 
on the breast. They were smaller than the so-called Newfoundland dogs of America 
and Britain ; were almost amphibious ; and lived on fish, salted, fresh, or decayed. 
Like the great mahogany-colored dogs of Labrador, these animals were distinguished 
for rare intelligence and unbounded affection (especially for children) ; and were 
exempt from hydrophobia. A Newfoundland dog of pure blood is now worth from 
§ 75 to S 100. 

The steamer passes out of Twillingate Harbor and runs by Gull Island- 
The course is to the S. W., off the rugged shores of the Black Islets, and 
the N. promontory of the great New World Island. 14 M. from Twillingate 
she reaches the post-tow^n of Exploits Island, a place of 530 inhabitants, 
with a large fleet of fishing-boats. (See also Route 58.) 

From Exploits Island the Bay of Notre Dame is crossed, and the harbor 
of Tilt Cove is entered. This village has 770 inhabitants, and is prettily 
situated on the border of a picturesque lake. The vicinity is famous for 
its copper-mines, which were discovered in 1857 and opened in 1865. Be- 
tween 1865 and 1870, 45,000 tons of ore, valued at $1,180,810, were 
extracted and shipped away. It is found in pockets or bunches 3-4 ft. 
thick, scattered through the heart of the hills, and is secured by level tun- 
nels several thousand feet long, connected with three perpendicular main 
shafts, 216 ft. deep. There is also a valuable nickel-mine hei-e, with a lode 
10 inches thick, worked by costly machinery, and producing ore worth 
$332 a ton. A superior quality of marble is found in the v;cinity, but is 
too far from a market to make it worth while to quarry. The male inhab- 
itants of Tilt Cove are all miners. 

The next stopping-place is at Nipper's Harbor, a small fishing-village 
10 M. S. W. of Tilt Cove. The harbor is the best on the N. shore of the 
Bay of Notre Dame, and Tes between the Nipper's Isles and the mainland. 
On alternate trips the mail-steamer calls also at Little Bay Jsland, 6-8 M 
S. of Nipper's harbor. 



206 Route 56. CONCEPTION BAY. 

The great copper-mines of this region now employ thousands of miners, 
and produce vast quantities of rich ore. The new railway from St. John's 
is heading toward the N. shore of the Bay of Notre Dame, to reach the 
mines. Thev are owned in London, and much of the ore is shipped to 
"Wales, to be smelted. Since the year 1880, these remote shores have 
received great accessions of population; a telegraph line has beer, 
built along the coast to St. John's ; and new roads begin to reach in- 
land, including the great highway across the island, to Indian Pond, 
Grand Lake, and the Bay of Islands, surveyed in 1878, in which year 
Governor Sir John Glover and the Rev. M. Harvey crossed the island on 
this line, in canoes, finding; immense areas of arable and grazing land, 
deposits of coal and other minerals, etc. 

The Hercules connects with the Northern Coastal steamer at its last 
port, and goes on to Labrador (see pages 223 to 229). 

56. St. John's t) Conception Bay. 

Railway Stations. St. John's to Topsail, 15 M. ; Manuels, 18 ; Kelligrews 
22; Seal Cove. 27 ; Holyrood, 33; Harbor Main, 36; Salmon Cove, 3;t ; Biigus 
J auction, 475 i Harbor Grace Junction, 57i ; Broad Cove, 66^ ; New ilarbor Road, 
74 ; Tilton, 79 : Harbor Grace, 84 ; Carbonear, 92. 

St. John to Harbor Grace Junction, 57^ M ; Placentia, 84. 

A small steamboat plies up and down the bay at certain .reasons. 

There is also a road extending around Conception Bay. It is 20 M. from St. 
John's to Topsail, by way of Portugal Cove, passing Beuchy, Broad, and Horse 
Coves. The more dii-ect route leads directly across the N. part of Avalon from St. 
John's to Topsail. The chief villages and the distances on this road are as follows : 
St. John's to Topsail, 12 M. ; Killigrews, 18; Holyrood, 28; ChapeFs Cove, 33; 
Harbor Main, .34^ ; Salmon Cove, 37 ; Colliers, 40 ; *Brigus, 46 ; Port de Grave, 51 : 
Spaniard's Bay, 56; Harbor Grace, 63; Carbonear, 67 A^ ; Salmon Cove, 72: Spout 
Cove, 76i; Western Bay, 82; Northern Bay, 87; Island Cove, 93i ; Caplin Cove, 
97 ; Bay Verd, 105. 

The stage-road, after leaving St. John's, traverses a singular farming 
country for several miles, and then enters a rugged region of hills. Portu- 
gal Cove is soon reached, and is picturesquely situated on the ledges near 
the foot of a range of highlands. It contains over 700 inhabitants, with 
2 churches, and has a few small farms adjacent (see page 195). 

Caspar Cortereal explored this coast in the year 1500, and named Conception 
Bay. He carried home such a favorable account that a Portuguese colony was es- 
tablished at the Cove, and 50 ships were sent out to the fisheries. In 1578'. 400 sail 
of vessels were seen in the bay at one time, prosecuting the fisheries under all flags. 
The colony was broken up by the English fleet under Sir Francis Di-ake, who also 
drove the French and Portuguese fishermen from the coast. 

Belle Isle lies off shore 3 M. from the Cove, whence it may be visited by ferry- 
'•Koats (also from Topsail). This interesting island is 9 M. long and 3 M. wide, and 
is traversed by a line of bold hills. It is fiimous for the richness of its deep black 
soil, and produces wheat, oats, potatoes, and hay, with the best of butter. The 
lower Silurian geological formation is here finely "displayed in long jiarallel strata, 
amid which iron ore is found. The cliffs which front on the shore are very bold, 
and sometimes overhang the water or else arc cut into strange and fantastic shapes 
by the action of the. sea. Two or three brilliant little waterfalls are seen leaping 
from the upper levels. Belle Isle has 600 inhabitants, located in two villages. Lance 
Cove, at the W. end, and the Beach, on the S. 



HARBOR GRACE. Route 5G. '201 

The stearaer runs out to the S. \V. between Belle Isle and the bold 
heights about Portugal Cove and Broad Cove, and passes up Conception 
Bay for 18 M., with the lofty Blue Hills on the S. It then enters the nar- 
row harbor of Brigus {SuUican's Hotel), a port of entry and the capital 
of the district of Brigus. It has 2,500 iuhabitants, with Wesleyan, Roman, 
and Anglican churches, and a convent of the Order of Mercy. The town 
is built on the shores of a small lake between two rugged hills, and pre- 
sents a picturesque appearance. It has over 800 boats engaged in the 
cod-fishery, and about 30 larger vessels in trading and fishing. There are 
a few farms in the vicinity, producing fair crops in return for great 
labor. The best of these are on the bright meadows near Clark's Beach;- 
4 M. from the town; and several prosperous villages are found in the 
vicinity. Near the town is the singular double peak called the Twins, 
and a short distance S. W. is the sharp and conical Thumb Peak (598 ft. 
high). 

The steamer passes out from the rock-bound harbor and runs N. by the 
bold hill of Brigus Lookout (400 ft. high). Beyond Burnt Head, Bay de 
Grave is seen opening on the 1., with several hamlets, aggregating 2,000 in- 
habitants. Cupids and Bareneed are the chief of these villages, the latter 
being on the narrow neck of land between Bayde Grave and Bay Roberts, 
2^ M. from Blow-me-down Head. Green Point is now rounded, and the 
course is laid S. W. up Bay Roberts, passing Coldeast Point on the port 
bow and stopping at the village of Bay Roberts {Moore's Hotel). This 
place consists of one long street, with 2 churches and several wharves, 
and has 2,800 inhabitants, most of whom spend the summer on the Lab- 
rador coast. 

Passing out from Bay Roberts, Mad Point is soon left abeam, and Sj)a7i- 
iarcrs Bay is seen on the 1 , entering the land for 3^ M., and dotted with 
fishing-establishments. The bay is surrounded by a line of high hills, 
on whose promontories are two or three chapels. The hamlet and church 
of BryanCs Cove are next seen, in a narrow glen at the base of the hills, 
and the steamer passes on around the dangerous and surf-beaten Harbor- 
Grace Islands (off Feather Point), on one of which is a revolving white- 
and-red flash light, 151 ft. above the sea, and visible for 18 M. 

Harbor Grace (two inferior inns) is the second city of Newfoundland, 
and is the capital of the district of Harbor Grace. It has 7,100 inhab- 
itants, with several churches, a weekly newspaper, and fire and police 
departments. The town is built on level land, near the shelter of the 
Point of Beach, with it^. wharves well protected by a long sand-strip. 
The bay is jn the form of a wedge, decreasing from I5 M. in width to ^ 
M., and is insecure except in the sheltered place before the city. The 
trade of this port is very large, and about 200 ships enter the harbor 
yearly. There is a stone court-house and a strong prison, and the Con- 
vent of the Presentation is on the Carbonear road. The Roman Catholic 



208 Route 57. CARBONEAR. 

cathedral is the finest building in the city, and its high and symmetrical 
dome is a landmark for vessels entering the port. The interior of the 
cathedral is profusely ornamented, having been recently enlarged and 
newly adorned. Most of the houses in the city are mean and unprepos- 
sessing, being i-udely constructed of wood, and but little improved by 
painting. 

A rugged road runs N. W. 15 M. across the peninsula to Heart's Content 

(see Route 57). A road to the N. reaches (in IJ M.) the farming village of Mosquito 
Cove, snugly embosomed in a pretty glen near the cultivated meadows. About the 
year 1610 a colony was planted here by the agents of that English company in which 
were Sir Francis Bacon, the Earl of Southampton, and other knights and nobles. 
King James I. granted to this company all the coast between Capes Bonavista and 
St. Mary, but their enterprise brought no pecuniary returns. 

Carbonear is 1^ M. by road from Mosquito Cove (3 M. fi-om Harbor 
Grace), and is reached by the steamer after passing Old Sow Point and 
rounding Carbonear Island This town has 5,000 inhabitants, with 3 
churches, and Wesleyan and Catholic schools. Several wharves are built 
out to furnish winter-quarters for the vessels and to accommodate the 
large fish-trade of the place. It is 21 M. by boat to Portugal Cove, across 
Conception Bay. This town Avas settled by the French early in the 17th 
century, under the name of Carboniere, but was soon occupied by the 
British. In 1696 it was one of the two Newfoundland towns that re- 
mained in the hands of the English, all the rest having been captured by 
Iberville's French fleet. Other marauding French squadrons were beaten 
off by the men of Carbonear in 1705-6, though the adjacent coast was 
devastated; and in 1762 Carbonear Island was fortified and garrisoned by 
the citizens. 

The mail-road runs N. from Carbonear to Bay A^'erd, passing the villages of Cro- 
ker's Cove, 1 M. ; Freshwater, 2 ; Salmon Cove, 5 ; Perry's Cove, 8 ; Broad Cove, 
15; Western Bay, 17; Northern Bay, 20 ; Job's Cove, 25; Island Cove, 27; Low 
Point, 33 ; Bay Verd, 38. There is no harbor along this shore, the " coves " being 
mere opeu bights, swept by sea-winds and affording insecure anchorage. The in- 
habitants are engaged in the fisheries, and have made some attempts at farming, in 
defiance of the early and biting frosts of this high latitude. Salmon Cove is near 
the black and frowning cliffs of Salmon Cove Head, and is famous for its great num- 
bers of salmon. Near Ochre Pit Cove are beds of a reddish clay which is used for 
paint, and it is claimed that the ancient Boeothic tribes obtained their name of 
" Red Indians " from their custom of staining themselves with this clay. 

Uay Verd, see page 201. 

57. Trinity Bay. 

This district may be visited by taking the Northern Coastal steamer (see Route 55) 
to Bay Verd, Old Perlican, or Trinity ; or by passing from St John's to Harbor 
Grace by Route 66, and thence by the road to Heart's Content ^15 M.) The latter 
village is about 80 M. from St. John's by the road around Conception Bay. 

Heart's Content is i-ituated on a fine harbor about half-way up Trinity 
Bay, and has 1,200 inhabitants, most of whom are engaged in the Labrador 
fisheries or in shipbuilding. The scenery in the vicinity is very striking, 
partaking r f the boldness and startling contrast wliich seems peculiar to 
this sea-girt Province. Just back of the village is a small lake, over 



TRINITY BAY. Route 57. 209 

which rises the dark mass of Mizzen Hill, GO-l ft. high. Heart's Content 

derives its chief importance and a world-wide fame, from the fact that 

here is the \V. terminus of the old Athintic telegrapli-cable. The office of 

the company is near the Episcopal Church, and is the only good building 

in the town. 

" Throb on, strong pulse of thunder ! beat 
From nnswerinp bench to beach ; 
Fuse nntions in thy kindly heat, 
And melt the chains of each ! 

" Wild terror of the sky above, 
Glide tamed and dumb below ! 
Bear gently. Ocean's carrier-dove, 
Thy errands to and fro. 

" Weave on. swift shuttle of the Lord, 
Beneath the deep so far. 
The bridal robe of earth's accord, 
The funeral shroud of war ! 

" For lo ! the fall of Ocean's wall 
Space mocked and time outrun ; 
And round the world tlie thouglit of all 
Is as the thought of one.' 
John G. Whittieks Cable Hymn. 

The road runnina: N. from Heart's Content leads to New Perlican, 3 M. ; Sillee 
Cove, C, M. : Hants Harbor, 12 ; Seal Cove, 19 ; Lance Cove, 24 ; Old Perlican, 28 ; 
and Grate's Cove, 34. 

Nexo Perlican is on the safe harbor of the same name, and has about 
420 inhabitants, most of whom are engaged in the cod-fishery and in ship- 
building. A packet-boat runs from this point across the Bay to Trinity. 
Near the village is a large table-rock on which several score of names have 
been inscribed, some of them over two centuries old. 

Old Perlican is about the size of Heart's Content, and is scattered along 
the embayed shores inside of Perlican Island. It is overlooked by a 
crescent-shaped range of dark and barren hills. The Northern Coastal 
steamer calls at this port once a month during the season of navigation. 



' O lonely Bav of Trinity, 

O dreary sliores, give ear ! 
Lean down into the white-lipped sea, 

The voice of God to hear ! 

■ From world to world His couriers flv. 

Thought-winged and shod with tiie ; 
The Jinsel of His stormy sky 
Rides down the sunken wire. 

' What saith the herald of the Lord ? 

' The world s long strife is done : 
Close wedded by that mj'stic cord. 
Its continents" are one. 

"And one in heart, as one in blood, 

Shall uU her peoples be ; 
The hands of human brotherhood 
Are clasped beneath tlie sea.' 



The southern road from Heart's Content leads to Heart's Desire, 6 M. ; Heart's 
Delight, y; Shoal Bay, 14 ; Witless Bay, 19 ; Green Harbor, 23; Hope All, 28; New 
Har'oor, 32; and Dildo Cov°, 35- Tlie villages on this roaJ are all small, and are 
mostly inhabited by the toilers of the sea. The country about Green Harbor and 
Hope .\11 is milder and more pastoral than are the cliff-bound regions on either side. 
From New Harbor a road runs E by Spaniard's Bay (Conception Bay) to St. .John's, 
in 08 M. To the S. and W. lie the fishing-hamlets on the narrow isthmus of Avalon, 
which separates Placentia Bay from Trinity Bay by a strip of land 7 M. long, joining 
the peninsula of Avalon to the main island. The deep estuary called Bull Arm runs 
up amid the mountains to with n 2 M. of the Come-by-chance River of Placentia 
Bay, and here it is proposed to make a canal joining the two bays. 

Heart's Ease is 1.5 M from Heart's Content (by boat), and is at the S. entrance 
of Random Sound. It is a fishing-village with 200 inhabitants and a church. To 
the S. is the grand cliff-scenerj^ around St. Jones Harbor and the long and river- 
like Dfier Harbor^ filled with islands, at whose head is Centre Hill, an isolated cone 
over 1,000 ft. high. From the summit of Centre Hill or of Crown Hill may be seen 
nearly the whole extent of the Placentia and Trinity Bays, with their capes and 
islands, villages and harbors. Just above Heart's Ease is Random Island, covering 
a large area, and separated from the main by the deep and narrow watercourses 
called Random Sound and Smith's Sound. There is much fine scenery in the sounds 
and their deep arms, and salmon-fishing is here carried on to a considerable extent. 
There are immense quantities of slate on the shores, some of which has been quar- 



210 Route 58. RIVER OF EXPLOITS. 

ried (at Wilton Grove). The two sounds are about 30 M. long, forming three sides 
of a square around Random Island, and have a width of from ^ M. to 2 M. " The 
sail up Smith's Sound was very beautiful. It is a fine river-like arm of the sea, 1-2 
M. wide, with lofty, and in many places precipitous, rocky banks, covered with wood. 
.... The character of the scenery of Random Sound is wild and beautiful, and con- 
veying, from its stillness and silence, the feehug of utter solitude and seclusion." 

Trinity is the most convenient point from vv^hich to visit the N. shore of 
the Bay (see page 201). The southern road runs to Trouty, 7 M ; New 
Bonaventure, 12 M. ; and Old Bonaventure, 18 M. Beyond these settle- 
ments is the N. entrance to Random Sound. 

58. The Bay of Notre Dame. 

Passengers are landed from the Northern Coastal steamer at Fogo, Twillingate, 
Little Bay Island, Nipper's Harbor, or Tilt Cove, — all ports on this bay (see 
pages 204, 205). 

Fogo is situated on Fogo Island, which lies between Sir Charles Ham- 
ilton's Sound and the Bay of Notre Dame. It is 13 M. long from E. to W., 
and 8 M. wide, and its shores are bold and rugged. There are 10 tishing- 
villages on the island, with nearly 2,000 inhabitants (exclusive of Fogo), 
and roads lead across the hills from cove to cove. 

It is 9 M. by road from Fogo to Cape Fogo; 7 M. to Shoal Bay; 5 to Joe Batt's 
Arm (400 inhabitants) ; 7 to Little Seldom-come-by ; and 9 to Seklom-come-by. a 
considerable village on a fine safe harbor, which is often filled with fleets of schoon- 
ers and brigs. If ice on the coast or contrary winds prevent the fishermen from 
reaching Labrador in'the early summer, hundreds of sail bear away for this harbor, 
and wait here until the northern voyage is practicable. There is no other secure 
anchorage for over 50 M. down the coast Tilton Harbor is on the E coast of the 
island, and is a Catholic village of about 400 inhabitants. The principal settlements 
reached by boat from Fogo are Apsey Cove, 14 M. : Indian Islands, 14; Blackhead 
Cove, 14 ; Rocky Bay, 25 ; Barr'd Islands, 4 ; and Change Islands, 8. 20 M S. W. 
is Gander Bay , the outlet of the great Gander-Bay Po7ids, which bathe the slopes of 
the Blue Hill's and the Heart Ridge, a chain of mountains 30 M. long. 

From Exploits Island (see page 205) boats pass S. 12 M. through a gi'eat 
archipelago to the mouth of the River of Exploits, This noble river de- 
scends from Red-Indian Pond, about 90 M. to the S. W., and has a strong 
current with frequent rapids. The Grand Falls are 145 ft. high, where 
the stream breaks through the Chute-Brook Hills. An Indian trail leads 
from near the mouth of the river S. W. across the vast barrens of the in- 
terior, to the Bay of Despair, on the S. coast of Newformdland. The Eiver 
of Exploits flows for the greater part of its course through level lowlands, 
covered with evergreen forests. It may be ascended in steamers for 12 
M.. to the first rapid, and from thence to the Red-Indian Pond by boats 
(making frequent portages). 

The river was first ascended by Lieut. Buchan, R. N., in 1810, under orders to find 
and conciliate the Red Indians, "who had fled to the interior after being nearly ex- 
terminated by the whites. He met a party of them, and loft hostages in their hands 
while he carried some of their number to the coast. But his guests decamped, and 
he returned only to find that the hostages had been cruelly uuudcred, and the tribe 
had fled to the rem.ote interior. In 1823 three squaws were captured, taken to St. 
John, loaded with pre.sents, and relea.sed ; since which time no Red Indians have 
been seen, and it is not known whether the tribe is extinct, or has fled to Labrador, 



KED-INDIAN I'OXD. Roulc 5ii. 211 

or is secluded in some more remote part of the interior. They were very numerous 
at the time of the advent of the Europeans, and received the new-ccmiers with con- 
fideuce ; but thereafter for two centuries tliey were hunted down for the sake of tlie 
rich furs in their possession, and gradually retired to the distant inland lakes. 

In 1S27 tlie H.vothic Society of St John's sent out envoys to find the Red Indians 
and open friendly intercoui-sc with them. But they were unable to get sight of a 
single Indian during long weeks of rambling through the interior, and it is con- 
cluded tliat tlie r aee^i-; extinct. On the shores of the broad and Ijeautiful Red-Indian 
Pond Mr. Cormack found several long-deserted villages of wigwams, with canoes, 
and curious aboriginal cemeteries. This was evidently the favorite seat of the tribe, 
and from this point their deer-fences were seen for over 30 M. (see also page 218). 

Little Bay Island (1,600 inhabitants), 15 M from Tilt Cove, is the mo.=^t 
Tavorable point from which to vLsit Hall's Bay. 8 M. S. W. are the settle- 
ment? at the mouth of Plall's Bay, of which Ward's Harbor is the chief, 
having 200 inhabitants and a f^ictorj- for canning salmon. There are valu- 
able salmon-fisheries near the head of the bay. From Hall's Bay to the N. 
and W., and towards White Bay, are the favorite summer feeding-grounds 
of the immense herds of deer Avhich range, almost unmolested, over the in- 
terior of the island. The hunting-grounds are usually entered from this 
point, and sportsmen should secure two or three well-certified Micmac 
guides. 

A veteran British sportsman has written of this region : " I know of no country 
so near England which offers the same amount of inducement to tlie explorer, natu- 
ralist, or sportsman." It is to be hoped, hovrcver, that no future visitors will imi- 
tate the ati-ocious conduct of a party of London sportsmen, who recently entered 
these hunting-grounds and massaci-ed nearly 2,000 deer during the short season, 
leaving the forests filled with decaying game. Public opinion will sustain the Mic- 
mac Indians, who are dependent ou the deer for their living, and who have declared 
that they will prevent a repetition of such carnage, or punish its perpetrators in a 
summary manner. 

The Indians and the half-breed hunters frequently cross the island from Hall's 
Bay by ascending Indian Brook in boats for about 25 M., and then making a port- 
age to the chain of ponds eniptyiug into Grand Pond, and descending by Deer Pond 
and the Humber River (skirting the Long Range) to the Bay of Islands. The transit 
is both arduous and perilous. 20 M. inland are the mountains called the Three 
Towers, from who^e summit may be seen the Grand Pond, the Bay of Exploits, and 
the Strait of Belle Isle. 

The deer migrate to the S. W. in the autumn, and pass the winter near St. George's 
Bay and Cape Ray Tiie Red Indians constructed many leagues cf fence, from the 
Bay of Notre Dame to Red-Indian Pond, by which they intercepted the herds during 
their passage to t!ie S , and laid in supplies of provi. ions for the winter. 

Recl-IncUau Pond is about 2>) M. S. W. of Ilah's Bay. It is 40 M. long by 
5-6 M. wide, and contains many islands. To the S. lie the great interior lakes, ii 
an unexplored and trackless region. The chief of these are Croaker's Lake (10 M. 
distant), filled with islets ; Jameson's Lake, 20 M. long, between Serpentii.e Mt. and 
Mt. Misery ; Lake Bathurst, 17 by 5 M. ; and George IV. Lake, 18 by 6 JI. 15 M. 
^\'. of Red-Indian Pond is Grand Pond, which is 60 M. long. (See page 218.) 

From Nipper's. Harbor the sportsman may pa-s up Green Bay, to the S. W., and 
enter the hunti.ig-grounds (having first taken care to secure trusty guides). On the 
N. side of the bay is a copper-mine that was opened in 1869, and has yielded well. 

Tiir Cove is 23 M. from II ill's Bay, 30 M. from New Bay, and 24 M. from Nim- 
rod. 7 M. distant is Burying Piace, a small fihing-village, near which have been 
found numerous birch-bark coSins and other memorials of the Red Indians, A road 
runs N. E from Tilt Cove, passing iu 3 IM. Round Harbor, which is prolific in cop- 
per ; and in 4 M Swe. Cove, famous for trout, and the station of a governmentboat 
which here watches the French fisheries. A road runs N. 7 M. from Shoe Cove to 
La Scie, on the French Shore (see liout* 61). 



212 Route 59. PLACENTIA BAY. 

59. Placentia Bay 

Is included between Cape St. Mary and Cape Chapeau Rouge, and is 48 
M. wide. Placentia is the capital of the eastern shore, and is a port of 
entry and post-town, 80 M. from St. John's by road. It is built along a 
level strand, overshadowed by round detached hills, and maintains a large 
fleet of fishing-boats. There are remarkable cliffs on Point Verde and 
Dixon Island, near the town ; and the views from Signal Hill and Castle 
Hill extend far out over the bay. There is much romantic scenery along 
the narrow channels of the N. E. and S. E. Arms, which extend from the 
harbor in among the mountains. Railroad to St. John's, in 81 M. 

In the year 1660 Placentia Bay was entered by two French frigates, which sailed up 
into the harbor and landed a strong force of soldiers, with heavy artillery and other 
munitions. Here they erected a strong fort, occupying a point so near the channel 
that the Baron La Hontan (who was detached for duty here) said that *' ships going 
in graze (so to speak) upon the angle of the bastion." The French held this post 
until 1713, when it was surrendered, according to the terms of the treaty of Utrecht. 
The port became famous as the resort of the French privateers which were destroy- 
ing the English fisheries, and Commodore Warren was sent out (in 1692) with three 
60-gun frigates and two smaller vessels to destroy the town. Warren ran in close 
to Placentia and opened fire, but was warmly received by the batteries at the en- 
trance and by Fort St. Louis. After a heavy cannonade of six hours' duration, the 
English fleet was forced to draw off In 1696 Iberville gathered 14 war-vesFels at 
Placentia, and having received 400 men of Quebec, sailed to the E. and overran all 
the Atlantic coast of Newfoundland, returning with 40-50 prize-ships and 600 
prisoners. In 1697 the great French fleet, which (under Iberville) destroyed all 
the British posts on Hudson's Bay, gathered here. So much did the British dread 
the batteries of Placentia and the warlike enthusiasm of M de Costabelle, its com- 
mander, that Admiral Walker, anchored at Sydney, with a splendid fleet carrying 
4,000 land-soldiers and 900 cannon, refused to obey his orders to reduce this little 
French fortress, and sailed back to Britain in disgrace When France surrendered 
Newfoundland, in 1713, the soldiers and citizens of Placentia migrated to Cape Bre- 
ton ; and in 1744 a French naval expedition under M. de Brotz failed to recapture 
it from the British. This town afterwards became one of the chief ports of the 
Province ; but has of late years lost much of its relative importance. A road runs 
hence to St. John's in 80 M.; also through the settlements on the S. to Distress 
Cove in 26 M. ; also S. W. 38 M. to Branch, on St. Mary's Bay. 

Little Placentia is on a narrow harbor 5 M. N. of Placentia, and has 383 
inhabitants. Near this point is a bold peak of the western range in 
Avalon, from which 67 ponds are visible. The islands in the bay are 
visited from this point. Eam's Inlands (133 inhabitants) are 10 M. dis- 
tant; Red Island (227 inhabitat.t'?) is 12 M. W.; and about IS M. distant is 
Merasheen Island, which is 21 M. long, and lias on its W. coast tlie Ragged 
Islands, 365 in number. The great lead-mines at La Manche are 12 M. N. 
of Little Placentia, on the Isthmus of Avalon, 7 M. from Trinity Bay. At 
the head of the bay, 33 M. from L ttle Placentia, is the village of North 
Harbor, near the great Powder-Horn Hills, and 7 M. beyond is Black 
River, famous for its wild-fowl and other game. 

Harbor Bufet is 16 M. from Little Placentia, on the lofty and indented lx)ng 
Island, and lias 333 inhabitants. Near the S. W. part of Placentia Bay is the town 
and port of Burin, a station of the Western Coastal steamers (see page 214). 



ST. MARY'S BAY. Route GO. 213 

60. The Western Outports of Newfoundland. — St. John's 
to Cape Ray. 

On jilfemate Thursdays or Fridays after the arrival of the mails from Europe, the 
Wostorn Coastal st^amrr leaves St. .Tnlin's for the outports on the S. shore 

Fares. — St. John's to Ferrvland, 10 s. ; Renowse, 10 s. : Tropasscy, 17 s. 6d. ; 
St. Marv"s or Placentia. 20s. : Burin. 25s. ; St. Lnwrence, 27s. 6d. ; Grand Bank, 
3.')S.: St. Pierre, 32s. 6 d. ; Harbor Briton, 37 s 6d. ; G.iultois or Great Jervois, 
37s. tid. : Burgeo, 45s.; La Poile, 47s. 6d. ; Rose Blanche, 50s ; Channel, 558. ; 
Sydney, 70 s. Meals are included. The trip out and back takes 10 to 12 days. 

St. John's to Cape Race, see Route 54. 

Passincr through the rocky portals of the harbor of St. John's, the 
steamer directs her course to the S. along the iron-bound Strait Shore. 
After visiting Ferryland and Renewse (see page 198), the Red Hills are 
seen in the W. ; and beyond the lofty bare summit of Cape Ballard, the 
dreaded cliffs of Cape Race (page 199) are rounded well off shore. Off 
Freshwater Point the course is changed to N. W., and Trepassey Bay is 
entered. The shores are lofty and bare, and open to the sweep of the 
sea. 8^ M. from Freshwater Point is Powles Head, on whose W. side the 
harbor of Trepassey is sheltered. The town contains 514 inhabitants, most 
of whom are engaged in the fisheries, and fronts on a secure harbor Avhich 
is never closed by ice. Roads lead henc^ to Salmonier (31 M ) and Renewse. 

In 1628 Lord Baltimore's ships of Avalon, the Benediction and the F/67or7/, entered 
Trepassey Bay under full sail, bent on attacking the French settlement. The Bene- 
diction first greeted the fleet with several cannon-shot, after which she sent a terrific 
broad.-iJe among the vessels. The Basque sailors fled to the shore, and the Victory, 
lowering her boats, took possession of all the vessels in the harbor and bore them 
away as prizes. The town of Trepassey was destroyed by a British naval attack in 1702. 

The steamer now runs S. W. to and around Cape Pine, on wliicli is a 
tall circular tower which upholds a fixed light 314 ft. above the sea, visible 
at a distance of 24 M. 1 :\I. W. N. W. is Cape Freels, a little beyond 
whicli is St. Shot's Bay. 

This narrow shore between Cape Pine and St. Shot's is said to be the most danger- 
ous and destructive district on the North American coast, and has been the scene of 
hundreds of shipwrecks. The conflicting and variable currents in tliese waters set 
toward the shore with great force, and draw vessels inward upon the ragged ledges. 
In former years disasters were frequent here, but at present mariners are warned 
off by the Admiralty charts and the lights and whistles. St. Shot's is as dreaded a 
name on the N coa.st as Cape Ilatteras is in the southern sea. In 1816 the transport 
Harpooner was wrecked on Cape Pine, and 200 people were lost. 

St. 31ary's Bay i-^ bounded by Cape Freels and Lance Point, and extends for 28 
5L into the Peninsula of Avalon. On the E. shore is St. Mary\s., a court-house town 
and port of entry, situated on a deep land-locked harbor, and largely engaged in 
fisiiiug. To the S. is the mountainous Cape English, near which a narrow sandy 
lieicii separates the bay from Holy rood Pond, a remarkable body of fresh water over 
12 M. long. It is 65 M. by road from St. Mary's to St. .John's"; and at 16 M. dis- 
tance the village of Snlmonier is reached This is a fishing and farming town near 
the outlet of the broad Salmonier River, famous for its great salmon. To the N. W., 
at the head of the bay, is some striking scenery, near Colinet Bay, where empties 
the Ilodge-iVater P.iver, descending from the Qnemo-Go«pen Ponds, in the interior 
of Avalon. There are several small hamlets in this vicinity ; and Colinet is accessible 
by land from St. John's in 56 M. The \Y. shore of St. Mary's Bay is mountainous 
and rugged, and has no settlements of any consequence. 



214 Route GO. FORTUNE BAY. 

Beyond the bold Cape St. Mary the steamer runs to the N. W. across the 
wide entrance to Placentia Bay (see page 212). At about 20 M. from Cape 
St. Mary the sharply defined headland of Cape Chapeau Rouge becomes 
visible; and the harbor of Burin is entered at about 42 M. from Cape St. 
Mary. This harbor is the finest in Newfoundland, and is sheltered by 
islands whose cliff'-bound shores are nearly 200 ft. high. On DoddingHead 
is a lighthouse 430 ft. above the sea, bearing a revolving light which is 
visible for 27 M. Still farther up, and almost entirely land-locked, is the 
Burin Inlet. The town of Burin has 2,300 inhabitants, and is an important 
trading-station, supplying a great part of Placentia Bay. The adjacent 
scenery is of the boldest and most rugged character, the lofty islands vying 
with the inland mountains. 

On leaving Burin the course is laid to the S. W., passing the lofty prom- 
ontories of Corbin Head, Miller Head, and Red Head. Beyond the tall 
sugar-loaf on Sculpin Point the deep harbors of Little and Great St. Law- 
rence are seen opening to the r.; and the sea-resisting rock of Cape Chapeau 
Rouge is next passed. This great landmark resembles in shape the crown 
of a hat, and is 748 ft. high, with sheer precipices over 300 ft. high. From 
this point the course is nearly straight for 33 M., to St. Pierre, running well 
off, but always in sight of a bold and elevated shore. 

St. Pierre, see page 185. 

On leaving St. Pierre the course is to the N., passing, in 5 M., the low 

shores of Grten Island, and then running for a long distance between the 

Miquelon Islands and May and Dantzic Points (on the mainland), which 

are about 12 M. apart. When about half-way across Fortune Bay, Brunet 

Island (5 M. long) is passed, and on its E. point is seen a lighthouse 408 ft. 

above the sea, showing a flashing light for 25 M. at sea. 6 M. beyond this 

point is Sagona Island, with its village of fishermen; and 5 M. farther N. 

the steamer enters Harbor Briton. Here is an Anglican village of about 

800 inhabitants, with an extensive local trade along the shores of Fortune 

Bay. The harbor is very secure and spacious, and runs far into the 

land. This town was settled in 1616 by Welshmen, and was then named 

Camhriol 

Forhmp Bay 

is included between Point May and Pass Island, and is 35 M. wide and 66 M. long. 
Fortune is a town of over 800 inhabitants, situated near the entrance of the bay, 
and on the Lamuline road Its enei'j2;ies are chiefly devoted to the fisheries and to 
trading with St Pierre. 3 M. E. N. E. are the highlands of C.Tpe Grand Bank, from 
which the shore trends N. E. by the hamlets of Garnish and Frenchman's Cove to 
Point Enrag^e. The E. and N shores are broken by deep estuaries, in which are 
small fishing-settlements ; an(i in the N. \Y. corner are tlie North and East Bays, 
famous for herring-fisheries, which attract large fleets of American vessels. On the 
W. shore is the prosperous village of Belleorem, engaged in the cod and herring 
fisheries, and distant 15 M. from Harbor Briton ]{oads iCnil IVom this point to tlie 
villages of Barrow, Blue Pinion, Corbin, English Ilarlxn- \\'cst. Coombs' Cove, and 
St. Jaques. The other settlcnionts on the W. shore aie nicre fishing-stations, clo.^ely 
liemmed in between the mountains and the sea, and are visited by boats from Harbor 
Briton. 



BURGEO. Route GO. 215 

Hermitage liay is an extcns:ive biu;ht of the sea to the N. of Pass Islaud. Its 
principal town is Htnnitn^e Cort, sin Auj^lit-an settlement -J M. from llail>or Briton. 
N. of the bay is Long Islan.l, whii-li is '-o M. around, and shelters the Hay of De- 
spair, famous for its prolitic sahnou-Hsheries. From the head of this ba^' Indian 
trails lead inland to Long Fond, Koinid I'ond, and a great cluster of unvisited lakes 
situated in a land of forests and mountains From the farther end of these inland 
waters diverge the great trails to the River of Exploits and Hall's Bay. 

After runnino; out to tlie S. W. betwei-n Sagona Ishmd iiud Coiumi;^re 
Head, the course is laid along the comparatively straight coast called the 
Western (S/?o?"e, extending from Fortune Bay to Cape Kay. Crossiigtl.e 
wide estuary of Hermitage Bay, the bold highlands of Cape La Hunc are 
approached, 12 M. X. of the Penguin Islands. About 25 M. W. of Cape 
La Hune the steamer passes the Ramea Islands, of which the isle called 
Columbe is remarkable for its height and boldness. There is a fishing- 
community located here ; and the August herrings are held as very 
choice. 

The old marine records report of the Ramea Isles : "In which isles are so great 
abundance of the huge and mightie sea-oxen with great teeth in the moneths of 
April. Mav, and June, that there haue been fifteene huudreth killed there by one 
small barke in the yeere 1591." 

In 1597 the English ship Hopeivell entered the harbor of Ramea and tried to 
plunder the French vessels there of their stores and powder, but was forced by a 
shore-battery to leave incontinently. 

About 9 M. W. N. W. of Ramea Columbe, the steamer enters the har- 
bor of Burgeo, a port of entry and trading-station of 650 inhabitants, sit- 
uated on one of the Burgeo Isles, which here form several small, snug 
harbors. This town is the most important on the Western Shoi-e, and 
is a favorite resort for vessels seeking supplies. 3 M. distaLt is Upper 
Burgeo, built on the grassy sand-banks of a small islet; and 7 M. M. is 
the salmon-fishery at Grandy's Brook, on the line of the N. Y., N. F. and 
London Telegraph. 

Beyond the Burgeo Isles the course is laid along the Western Shore, and 
at about 25 M. the massive heights at the head of Grand Bruit Bay are 
seen. 5 M. farther on, after passing Ireland Island, the steamer turns into 
La Poile Bay, a narrow arm of the sea which cleaves the hills for 10 M. 
The vessel ascends 3 M. to La Poile (Little Bay), a small and decadent 
fishing-village on the W. shore. 

The distance from La Poile to Channel, the last port of call, is 30 ^L, 
and the coast is studded with small hamlets. Garia Bay is 5-6 M. W. 
of La Poile, and has two or three villages, situated amid picturesque 
scenery and surrounded by forests. Rose Blanche is midway betwee i 
La Poile and Channel, and is a port of entry with nearly 500 inhabitants, 
situated on a small and snug harbor among the mountains. It has a con- 
siderable trade with the adjacent fishing-settlements. 8 M beyond Rose 
Blanche are the Burnt Islands, and 3 >\I. farther on are the Dead Islands. 
At 8-10 M. inland are seen the dark and desolate crests of the Lorig- 
Range Mountains, sheltering the Coilroy Valley. 



216 Route 61. PORT AU BASQUE. 

The Dead Islands (French, Les Isles aux Marts) are so named on account of 
the many fatal wrecks which have occurred on their dark rocks. The name was 
given after the loss of an emigrant-ship, when the islands were so fringed with 
human corpses that it took a gaug of men five days to bury them. George Harvey 
formerly lived on one of the islands, and saved hundreds of lives by boldly putting 
out to the wrecked ships. About 1830 the Dispatch struck on one of the isles. She 
was full of immigrants, and her boats could not live in the heavy gale which was 
rapidly breaking her up. But Harvey pushed out in his row-boat, attended only 
by his daughter (17 years old) and a boy 12 years old. He landed every one of the 
passengers and crew (163 in number) safely, and fed them for three weeks, inso- 
much that his fiimily had nothing but fish to eat all winter after In 1838 the 
Glasgow ship tiankin struck a rock off the isles, and went to pieces, the crew cling- 
ing to the stern-rail. In spite of the heavy sea, Harvey rescued them all (25 iu 
number), by making four trips in his punt. " The whole coast between La Poile 
and Cape Ray seems to have been at one time or other strewed with wrecks Every 
house is surrounded with old rigging, spars, masts, sails, ships' bells, rudders, 
wheels, and other matters. The houses too contain telescopes, compasses, and por- 
tions of ships' furniture." (Prof. Jukes.) 

Channel (or Port au Basqut) is 3-4 M. W. of the Dead Isle?, and 30 
M. from La Poile. It is a port of entry and a transfer-station of the N. Y., 
N. F. and London Telegraph Company, and has nearly 1,000 inhabitants, 
with an Anglican church and several mercantile establishments. The 
fisheries are of much importance, and large quantities of halibut are 
caught in the vicinity. A few miles to the W. is the great Table Mt., 
over Cape Ray, beyond which the French Shore turns to the N. A 
schooner leaves Port au Basque every fortnight, on the arrival of the 
steamer from St. John's, and carries the mails N. to St George's Bay, the 
Bay of Islands, and Bonne Bay (see Route 61). 

The steamer, on every alternate trip, runs S. W, from Channel to Syd- 
ney, Cape Breton. The course is across the open sea, and no land is seen, 
after the mountains about Cape Ray sink below the horizon, until the 
shores of Cape Breton are approached. 

Sydney, see page 150. 

61. The Trench Shore of K"ewfoundland. — Cape Ray to 
Cape St. John. 

It is not likely that any tourists, except, perhaps, a few adventurous yachtsmen, 
will visit this disirict. It is destitute of hotels and roads, and has only one short 
and infrequent mail-packet route. The only settlements are a few widely scattered 
fishing-villages, inhabited by a rude and hardy class of mariners ; and no form of 
local government has ever been established on any part of the shore But the Editor 
is reluctant to pass over such a vast extent of the coast of the Maritime Provinces 
witnout some brief notice, especially since this district is in man} of its features so 
unique. The Editor was unable, owing to the lateness of the season, to visit the 
Ereuch Shore in person, but has been aided in the preparation of the following 
notes, both by gentlemen who have traversed the coast and the inland lakes, and 
by various statistics of the Province. It is therefore believed that the ensuing 
itinerary is correct in all its main features. The distances have been verified by 
comparison with the British Admiralty charts. 

The French Shore may be visited by the trading-schooners which run from port 
to port throughout its whole extent during the summer season. The most interest- 
ing parts of it may also be seen by taking the mail-packet which leaves Port au 
Basque (Channel) fortnightly, and runs N. to Bonne Bay, touching all along the 
coast. 



CAPE RAY. Routed. 217 

The French Shore extends from Cape St. John (N. of Notre D.mio Bay) 
around the N. and W. coasts of the island to Cape Ray, inchiding the richi-st val- 
leys and ftiirest soil of Newfoundland It is nearly exempt from fogs, bonlcrs on 
tlie must prolific fishing-grounds, and is called the " Garden of Newfoiindhiiid" 
By the treaties of 1713, 17(33, and 1783, the French received the right to catch and 
cure fisli.and to erect huts and stages along this entire coast, — a concession of 
which they have av:iilcd themselves to the fullest extent. There are several British 
colonies along the shore, but they live without law or magistrates, since the home 
government believes that such appointments would be against the spirit of the 
treaties with France (which practically neutralized the coast). The only authority 
is that which is given by courtesy to the resident clergymen of the settlements. 

It is 9 M. from Channel to Cape Ray, where the French Shore begins. The dis- 
tances from this point are given as between harbor and harbor, and do not represent 
the straight course from one outport to another at a great distance. 

Cape Kay to Codroy,13 M. ; Cape Anguille, 18{Crabb's Brook, 45; Middle Branch, 
50; Robinson's Point, 00 ; Flat Bay, 57; Sandy Point, 65 ; Indian Head, 75) ; Cape 
St George, 54 ; Port au Port (Long Point), 84 • Bay of Islands, 108 ; Cape Gregory, 
12.5: Bonne Bav, 140; Green Cove, 147 ; Cow Harbor, 1-58 ; Portland Bill, 176 ; Bay 
of lugornachoix (Point Rich), 20'3 ; Portau Choix, 208 ; Point Ferolle, 220 ; Flower 
Cove, 245 : Savage Cove. 249 ; Sandy Bav, 250; Green Island. 255; Cape Norman, 
285 ; Pistolet Island, 292 ; Noddy Harbor, 306 ; Quirpon (Cape Bauld), 310 ; Griguet 
Bay, 321; St. Lunaire, 326; Braha Bay, 33) : St. Anthony, 336; Goo.se Harbor 
(Hare Bav), 340 ; Harbor de Yean, 348 ; 'St. Julien, 353 ; Croque, 358 ; Conche, 373 ; 
Canada Bay, 387; Great Harbor Deep, 410; La Fleur de Lis, 432 ; La Sole, 455; Cape 
St. John, 46U. 

* Cape Ray is the S. W. point of Newfoundland, and is strikingly pic- 
turesque in its outlines. 3 M. from the shore rises a great table-moun- 
tain, with sides 1,700 ft. high and an extensive plateau on the summit. 
Nearer the sea is the Sugar Loaf, a symmetrical conical peak 800 ft. high, 
N. of which is the Tolt Peak, 1,280 ft. high. These heights may be seen 
for 50 M. at sea, and the flashing light on the cape is vis ble at night for 20 
M. From this point St. Paul's Island bears S. W. 42 M., and Cape North 
is W. by S. 57 M. (see page 160). 

Soon after passing out to the W. of Cape Ray, Cape Anguille is seen on 
the N., — a bold promontory nearly 1,200 ft. nigh. Between these capes 
is the valley of the Great Codroy River, with a fiirming population of 
several hundred souls; and along its course is the mountain -wall called 
the Long Range, stretching obliquely across the island to the shores of 
White Bay. 

St. George's Bay extends for about 50 M. inland, and its shores are 
said to be very rich and fen ile, abounding also in coal. The scenery 
about the hamlet of Crabb's Brook ''forms a most lovely and most Eng- 
lish picture." There are several small hamlets around the bay, of which 
Sandy Point is the chief, having 400 inhabitnnts and 2 churches. The 
people are rude and uncultured, fond of roaming and adventure; but the 
moral condition of these communities ranks high in excellence, and great 
deference is paid to the clergy. The Micmac Ind ans are often seen in 
this vicinity, and are partially civilized, and devout members of the Catholic 
Church. The country to the E is mountainous, merging into wide grassy 
plains, on which the deer pass the winter season, roaming about the icy 
levels of the great interior lakes. 
10 



218 Route 61. GRAND POND. 

Grand Pond is usually (and rarely) visited from St. George's Bay. After as- 
cending the broad sound at the head of the bay for about 10 M. , a bhnd forest-path 
is entered, and the Indian guides lead the way to the N. E. over a vast expanse of 
moss (very uncomfortable travelling). The Hare-Head Hills are passed, and after 
about 15 M. of arduous marching, the traveller reaches the Grand Pond. " And a 
beautiful sight it was, A narrow strip of blue water, widening, as it proceeded, to 
about 2 M., lay between bold rocky precipices covered with wood, and rising almost 
directly from the water to a height of 5-600 ft., having bare tops a little farther 
back at a still greater elevation." The Bay Indians keep canoes on t!ie pond, and 
there are several wigwams on the shores. Game and fish are abundant in these 
woods and waters, since it is but once in years that the all-slaying white man 
reaches the pond, and the prudent Indians kill only enough for their own actual 
needs. There is a lofty island 20 M. long, on each side of which are the narrow and 
ravine-like channels of the pond, with an enormous depth of water. The route to 
Hall's Bay (see page 211) leads up the river from the N. E. corner of the pond 
for about 35 *M., passing through four lakes. From the uppermost pond the canoe 
is carried for | M. and put into the stream which empties into Hall's Bay. 3 M. W. 
of the inlet of this river into Grand Pond is the outlet of Junction Brook, a rapid 
stream which leads to the Humber River and Deer Pond in 8 - 10 M. , and is passable 
by canoes, with frequent portages. 

Near the N. end of Grand Pond, about the year 1770, occurred a terrible battle 
between the Micmacs and the Red Indians, which resulted in the extermination of 
the latter nation. The Micmacs were a Catholic tribe from Nova Scotia, who had 
moved over to Newfoundland, and were displacing the aboriginal inhabitants, the 
Red Indians, or Boeothics. In the great battle on Grand Pond the utmost deter- 
mination and spirit were shown by the Boeothics, invaded here in their innermost 
retreats. But they had only bows and arrows, while the Micmacs were armed with 
guns, and at the close of the battle not a man, woman, or child of the Red Indians 
of this section was left alive. 

This region is densely covered with forests of large trees (chiefly fir and spruce), 
alternating with " the barrens," — vast tracts which are covered with thick moss. 
Gov Sir John Harvey, after careful inspection, claims that the barrens are under- 
laid with luxuriant soil, while for the cultivation of grasses, oats, barley, and pota- 
toes there is " no country out of England or Egypt superior to it." The intense 
and protracted cold of the winter seasons will preclude agriculture on a large scale. 

These inland solitudes are adorned, during the short hot summer, with many 
brilliant flowers. Among these are great numbers of wild roses, violets, iri^es, 
pitcher-plants, heather, maiden-hair, and vividly colored lichens ; while (says Sir 
R. Bonnycastle) " in the tribe of lilies, Solomon in all his glory exceeded not the 
beauty of those produced in this unheeded wilderness." The only white man who 
ever yet crossed these lonely lands from shore to shore was a Scotchman named 
Cormack, who walked from Trinity Bay to St. George's Bay, in 1822 He was ac- 
companied by a Micmac Indian, and the trip took several weeks. The maps of 
Newfoundland cover this vast unexplored region with conjectural mountains and 
h\pothetical lakes. The British Admiralty chart of Newfoundland (Southern Por- 
tion) omits most of these, but gives minute and valuable topographical outlines of 
the lakes and hills N. of the Bay of Despair, the Red-Indian Pond, and River of Ex- 
ploits, and the region of the Grand Pond and Deer Pond, with their approaches. 

Cape St. George thrusts a huge line of precipices into th« sea, and 5 M. 
beyond is Red Island, surrounded by dark red cliffs. 25 M. farther to the 
N. E. is the entrance to Port au Port, a great double harbor of noble 
capacity. It is separated from St. George's Bay by an isthmus but 1 M. 
w de, at the W. base of the great Table Mt. 

The * Bay of Islands affords some of the finest scenery m the Province, 
and is sheltered by several small but lofty islands. The soil along the 
shores is said to be deep and productive, and adapted to raising grain and 
produce. Limestone, gypsum, and fine marble are found here in large 
quantities. There are about 1,500 inhabitants about the bay. See S. G-W. 
Dcnjamin's illustrated article, in Tht Century Mit<jnztne. May, 1884. 



HUMBER RIVER. JioiUcGl. 219 

At the head of the buy is the mouth of the Humber River, the largest river 
m NewfouiiiUaml. In the lai^t IS M. of its course it is known as the Hinnber Sound, 
and is 1 -2 M. wide and 50-61* fathoms deep, witli lofty and I'ugged hills on either 
side. Great quantities of timber are found on these shores, and the trout and sal- 
mon fisheries are of considerable value. The river flows into the head of tiie sound 
in a narrow and switt current, and is ascended by boats to the Deer I'ond. Occa- 
sional cabins and clearings are seen along the shores, inhabited by bold and hardy 
pioneers. 3 M. above the head of the sound there is a rajnd 1 M. long, up which 
boats are drawn by lines. Here " the scenery is highly striking and picturesque, — 
lofty cliffs of pure white limestone rising abruptly out of the woods to a height of 
3 400 ft , and being themselves clothed with thick wood round their sides and 
over their summits."" Above the rapids the river traverses a valley 2 M. wide, filled 
with birch-groves and hemmed in by high hills. The stream is broad and shallow 
for 6 -M. above the rapi.ls, where another series of rapids is met, above which are the 
broad waters of *l)eer Pond, 2-3 M. wide and 15 M. long. Here is the undis- 
turbed home of deer and smaller game, loons, gulls, and kingfishers A few Micmae 
Indians still visit these solitudes, and their wigwams are seen on the low savannas 
of the shore (:?ee also pages 211 and 218 ) 

" Beyond the forest-covered hills which surround it are lakes as beautiful, and 
larger than Lake George, the cold clear waters of which flow to the bay under the 
name of the river Humber. It has a valley like Wyoming, and more romantic 
scenery than the Susquehanna. The Bay ot Islands is also a bay of streams and in- 
lets, an endless labyrinth of cliffs and woods and waters, where the summer voyager 
■would delight to wander, and which is worth a volume sparkling with pictures." 

Bonne Bay is 23 M. N. E. of the Bay of Islands, and is a favorite resort 
of Auiericau and Provincial fishermen. Great quantities of herring are 
caught in this vicinity. The mountains of the coast-range closely ap- 
proach the sea, forming a bold and striking prospect; and the rivers which 
empty into the bay may be followed to the vicinity of the Long Range, 

The coast to the N. N. W. for nearly 70 M. is straight, with the slight 
indentations of the Bay of St. Paul and Cow Bay. The Bay of Ingorna- 
cJioix has comparatively low and level shores, with two excellent har- 
bors. On its N. point (Point Rich) is a lighthouse containing a white 
flashing-light which is visible for 18 M. ; and 2 M. E. is the fishing-station 
of Part au Choix, whence considerable quantities of codfish and herring 
are exported. The Bay of St. John is dotted with islands, and receives 
the River of Castors, flowing from an unknown point in the interior, and 
abounding in salmon. 

" What a region for romantic excursions I Yonder are wooded mountains with a 
sleepy atmosphere, and attractive vales, and a fine river, the River Castor, flowing 
from a country almost uue.xpiored ; and here are green isles spotting the sea, — the 
islands of St. John. Behind them is an expanse of water, alive with fish and fowl, 
the extremes of which are lost in the deep, untroubled wilderness. A mouth would 
not suffice to find out and enjoy its manifold and picturesque beauties, thiougli 
which wind the deserted trails of the Red Indians, now extinct or banished." 

The Bay of St. Joha is separated by a narrow isthmus from St. Mar- 
garet's Bay (on the N.), on which are the stations of Neio Ferolle and Old 
Ferolle. Beyond the Bays of St. Genevieve and St. Barbe, with their few 
score of inhabitants, is Flower Cove, containing a small hamlet and an 
P^piscopal church. The great sealing-grounds of the N. shore are next 
traversed; and the adjacent coast loses its mountainous character, and 
sinks into wide plains covered with grass and wild grain. 



220 Route 61. STRAIT OF EELLE ISLE. 

The Strait of Belle Isle. 

The Strait of Belle Isle is now entered, and on the N. is the lofty and 
barren shore of Labrador (or, if it be night, the fixed light on Point 
Amour). As Green Island is passed, the Red Cliffs, on the Labrador shore, 
are seen at about 10 M. distance. The low limestone cliffs of the New- 
foundland shore are now followed to the N. E., and at 80 M. beyond Green 
Island, Cape Norman is reached, with its revolving light upheld on the 
bleak dreariness of the spray-swept hill. This cape is the most northerly 
point of Newfoundland. 

The Sacred Islands are 12 M. S. E. by E. from Cape Norman, and soon 
after passing them the hamlet of Quirpon is approached. This place is 
situated on Quirpon Island, 4 degrees N. of St. John's, and is devoted to 
the sealing business. It has an Episcopal church and cemetery. Multi- 
tudes of seals are caught off this point, in the great current which sets 
from the remote N. into the Strait of Belle Isle. Hundreds of icebergs 
may sometimes be seen hence, moving in stately procession up the strait. 
In front of Quirpon are the cold highlands of Jaques-Cartier Island. Cape 
Bauld is the N. point of the island of Quirpon, and the most northerly 
point of the Province. 

14 M. N. of Cape Bauld, and midway to the Labrador shore, is Belle Isle, in the 
entrance of the strait. It is 9>^ M. long and 3 M. broad, and is utterly barren and 
unprofitable. On its S. point is a lonely lighthouse, 470 ft. above the sea, sustain- 
ing a fixed white light which is visible for 28 M. During the dense and blinding 
snow-storms that often sweep over the strait, a cannon is fired at i-egular intervals ; 
and large deposits of provisions are kept here for the use of shipwrecked mariners. 
Between Dec. 15 and April 1 there is no light exhibited, for the^e northern seas are 
then deserted, save by a few daring seal-hunters. There is bnt one pon:t where the 
island can be approached, which is Ijg M. from the lighthou,-e, and heie the stores 
are lauded. There is not a tree or even a bush on the island, and coal is imported 
from Quebec to warm the hou^e of the keeper, — who, though visited but twice a 
jear, is happy and contented. The path from the landing is cut through the moss- 
covered rock, and leads up a long and steep ascent. 

In the J ear 1527 "a Canon of !St. Paul in London, which was a great mathemati- 
cian, and a man indued with wealth," sailed for the New "World with two ships, 
which were fitted out by King Henry VIII. After they had gone to the westward 
for many days, and had passed " great Hands of Ice," they reached " the mayne 
land, all wildernesse and mountaines and woodes, and no naturall ground but all 
mosse, and no habitation nor no people in these parts." They entered the Strait of 
Belle Isle, and then " there arose a great and a maruailous great storme, and HiUth 
foul weather," during which the ships \vere separated. The captain of the Mary of 
Guilford wrote home concerning his c onsort-ship : " I trust in Alniightie Jesu to heaie 
good newes of her"; but no tidings ever came, and she was probably lost in the 
sciait, with all on board. 

The islands of Belle Isle and Quirpon were called the Isles of Demons in the 
remote past, and the ancient maps represent them as covered with " devils ram- 
paiit, with wings, horns, and taiis." They were said to be fascinating but malicious, 
and Andre Thevet exorcised them from a band of stricken Indians by repeating a 
part of the Gospel of St. John. The mariners feared to land on these hiumted 
shores, and '' when they passed this way, they heard in the ah-, on the tops and 
about the masts, a great clnmor of men's voices, confused and ii articulate, such aj$ 
jou may hear from the crowd at a fair or market-place ; whereupon they well knew 
that the Isle of Den.ons was not far off." Tlie brave but superstitious Normans 
dared not land on the Labrador witliout the crucifix in hand, believing that those 
gloomy shores were guarded by great and terrible griffins- These quaint legends 



STRAIT OF BELLE ISLE. Route 67. 221 

undoubtedly had a good found ition In July, 1873, the coasts of the Strait of Belle 
Isle were ravaged by bauds of immense wolves, who devoured several human beings 
and besieged the settlements for weeks. 

An aueient MS of 158l> relates a curious legend of Belle Isle. Among the com- 
pany on the tieet wliich was conducted through the litraits to Quebec in 1542, were 
the Lady Marguerite, niece of the Viceroy of New France, and her lover. Tlieir 
conduct was such as to have scandaazed the tieet, and when they re:»ched the Isle 
of Demons, lloberval, enraged at her shamele<sDess, put her on shore, with her old 
nurse. The lover leaped from tae ship and joined the women, and the fleet sailed 
away. Then the demons and the hosts of heil began tin ir assaults on the forsaken 
trio, tearing about their hut at night, menacing them on the shore, and assaulting 
them in the forest. But the penitent sinners wore guarded by invisible b luds of 
saints, and kept from peril. After many months, wearied by these fiendish assaults, 
the lover died, and was soon followed by the nurse and the child. Long thcreaftir 
lived Marguerite alone, until finally a fishing-vessel ran iu warily toward the smoke 
of her fire, and rescued her, after two years of life among demons. 

From Cape Bauld the coast runs S. by the French seahng-stations of 
Griguet, St. Lunaire, Braha, and St. Anthony, to the deep hidentation of 
Hare Bay, which is 18 M. long and 6 M. wide. A short distance to the S. 
is the fine harbor of Croque, a favorite resort for the French fleets and a 
coaUng station for the steamers. The back country is dismal to the last 
degree. 

To the S. E. are the large islands of Groais (7 K S} M. in area)and Belle Isle (9 V 6 
M.). Running now to the S- W. by Cape Rouge and Botitot, Conche H irbor is seen 
on the starboard bow, and Canada Bay is opened on the W. This great bay is 
12 M. long, and ii entered througn a.j intricate passage called the Narrows, beyond 
which it widens into a safe and capacious basin. 'Jhe shores are solitary and de- 
serted, and far inland are seen the great hill-ranges called The Clouds. 7 M. to the 
S. W. is the entrance to Hoo, ing Harbor, and 5 M. farther S. is B'ourchette, 12 M. 
beyond which is Grpnt, Haibor Deep, a long and narrow estuary with such a depth 
of water th it vessels cannot anchor in it. This is at the \V. entrance of White 
Bay, and is 1=3 M. from Partridge Point, the E. entrance. 

Wliite Bay is a fine sheet of water 45 M. long and 10-15 M wide. It is very 
deep, and has lo islands except such as are close in shore. The fisheries are car- 
ried on here to a considerable extent, and at Cat Cove, Jackson's Arm, Chouse 
Brook, Wiseman's Cove, Seal Cove, and Lobster Harbor are small settlements of 
resident fishermen. Chouse Brook is situated amid noble scenery near the head 
of the bay, 60 M. by boat from La Scie. On the highlands to the W and S. of 
White Hay are the haunts of the deer, which are usually entered from Hall's Bay or 
Green Bay. 

3 M. S. E. of Partridge Point is La Fleur de Lis harbor, so named from 
the simulation of the royal flower by a group of three hills near its head. 
IJunning thence to the E., the entrances of Little Bay and Ming's Bight 
open on the starboard side, and on the port bow are the St. Barbe, or Horse 
L>lands, About 20 ]\L from La Fleur de Lis is La Scie, the last settle 
ment on the French Shore, with its three resident fam'lies. A road leads S. 
7 M. from this point to Shoe Cove, on the Ba}' of Notre Dame (see page 
211); and 5 M. E. of La Scie is * Cape St. John, the boundary of the 
French Shore on the Atlantic. 

" The Cape is in full view, a promontory of shaggy precipices, suggestive of all the 
fiends of Pandemonium, rather than the lovely Apostle whose name has been gib- 
beted on the black and dismal crags As we bear down toward the Cape, we 

pass Gull Isle, a mere pile of naked rocks delicately wreathed with lace-like mists. 
Imagine the last hundred feet of Conway Peak, the very finest of the New-Hampshire 
mountain-tops, pricking above the waves, and you wyjl see thii little outpost and 



222 Route 61. CAPE ST. JOHN. 

breakwater of Cape St. John." (Noble.) The Cape presents by far the grandest 
scenery on the E. coast of NewfouDdland,and is an unbroken wall of black rock, 
4-500 ft. high and 5 M. long, against wfiose immediate base the deep sea sweeps. 

' ' Of the lamdes of Labrador and Baccalaos, lying West and North-west from 

E^GLANDE, AND BE!^Gt: PARTE OF THE FIRME LANDE OF THE WeST IjSDIES. 

" Many haue traualyed to search the coast of the lande of Laborador, as well to 
the iutente to knowe ho we fane or why tber it reachethe, as also whether there bee 
any pasi^age by sea throughe the sanie into the Sea of Sur and the Islandes ol Maluca, 
wtiich are under the Equiiioctiail hue : think> nge that the waye thy ther shulde greatly 
bee shortened by this vjage. The Spanjardes, as to whose ryght the sayde islandes of 
8pices pcrteyne, d^dfyrst teeke to tjnde the same by this way. The Portugales 
also hauynge the trade ol spices in theyr handes, djd trauayle to f^nde the same: 
although hetherto neyther auye suche pa.'sage is founde or the etde of that lande. 
In the .^i eare a thousande and flue hundredth, Caspar Cortesreales made a vyage 

thy ther with two carauelles ; but found not the streyght or passage he sought 

He greatly maruayled to beholde the houge quantitie of snowe and ise For the 
sea is there frosen excedyngly. Thinhabitauntes are men of good corporature, al- 
though tawny hke the Indiess, and laborious. They paynte theyr bodyes, and weare 
braselettes and hoopes of syluer and copper. Theyr apparel is made of the fkynnes 
of marternes and dyvers other beastes, whiche they weare with the heare inwarde in 
wynter, and outwarde in soommer. This apparell they gyrde to theyr bodyes Avith 
gyrdels made of cotton or the synewes of tysshes and beastes. They eate fysshe 
more than any otlier thynge, and especially salmons, althoughe they have foules 
and frute. They make theyr houses of timber, whereof they haue great plentie : 
and in the steade of tyles, couer them with the skynnes of fysshes and beastes. It 
is said also that there are grifes in this land : and that the beares and n.any other 
beastes and foules are white. To this and the islandes aboute the same, the Biitons 
are accustomed to res orte : as u^en of nature agreeable vnto them, and born vnder 
the same altitude and temperature. The Norways also sayled thyther with the 
pylot cauled John Seoluo : and the Englyshe men with Sebastian Cabot. 

" The coaste of the lande of Baccalaos is a greate tracte, and the altitude thereof 
is xlviii degrees and a halle. i;ebastiau Cabot was the fyrst that bro\\ght any knowl- 
eage of this land. For being in Englande in the dayes of Kyng Henry the Seuenth, 
he furnyshed two shippes at his osvue charges or (as some say) at the kynges, whom 
he persuaded that a passage might bee found to Cathay by the North Seas, and that 
spices myght bee browght from thense soner by that way , then by the vyage the 
Portugales vse by the Sea of Sur. He weut also to knovve what mauer of landes 
tho.^e Indies were to inhabite. He had withe hym 300 men, and directed his course 
by the tracte of islande uppon the Cape of Laborador at Iviii degrees : affirmynge 
that in the monethe of July there was such could and heapes of ise that he durst 
passe no further : also that the dayes were very longe, and in nianer withowt nyght, 
and the nyghtes very cleare. Certeyne it is, that at the Ix degrees, the longest d;iy 
is of xviii houres. But consyderynge the coulde and the straungeness of the uu- 
knowne lande, he turned his course from thense to the West, folowjnge the coast 
of t\\e land of Baccalaos vnto the xxxviii degrees, from wheuse he returned to Eng- 
lande. To conclude, the Brytons and Danes have sayled to the Baccalaos ; and 
Jacques Cartier, a Frenchman, was there twyse with three galeons. 

" Of these lands Jacobus Hastaldus wryteth thus : ' The Newe land of Bi.ctalaos 
is a coulde i-egion, whose inhabytauntes are idolatours, and praye to the sooue and 
moone and dyvers idoles. They ai-e whyte people, and very rustical. For they eate 
tlesshe and fysshe and all other thynges rawe. Sumtymes also they eate mans 
tiesshe priuilye, so that theyr Caciqui have no knowleage tliereof. The apparell of 
both the men and women is made of beares skynnes, although thev have sables and 
marternes, not greatly esteemed because they are lyttle. t^oii e ot thorn go naked in 

soomer, and weare apparell only in wynter NorthwMrilc tVoiii the ri^gion of 

Baccalaos is the land of Laborador, all full of mountayiics aiul ui-c.it woodes, in whiche 
are nianye beai'es and wylde boares. ThinliMbitaunte-; arc idnhitoures and warlike 
people, apparelled as are they of Biucalaos. In all this luwe laude is neyther citie 
or castell, but they lyve in companies I3 ke heardes of beastes.' •' 



LABRADOR 



Is the great peninsular portion of North America which lies to the N. and 
N. W. of Newfoundland, and is limited by the Gulf of St. Lawrence, the 
ocean, and Hudson's Bay. It extends from about 50*^ N. latitude to 60''', 
and the climate is extremely rigorous, the mean temperature at Nain 
being 32" 6'. The land is covered with low mountains and barren plateaus, 
on which are vast plains of moss interspersed with rocks and bowhlers. 
There are no forests, and the inland i-egion is dotted with lakes and 
swamps. There are reindeer, bears, foxes, wolves, and smaller game; 
bitt their number is small and decreasing. The rivers and lakes swarm 
with fi.«,h, and the whole coast is famous for its valuable fisheries of cod 
and salmon. At least 1,000 decked vessels are engaged in the Labra- 
dor fisheries, and other fleets are devoted to the pursuit of seals. The 
commercial establishments here are connected with the great firms of 
England and the Channel Islands. The Esquimaux population is steadily 
dwindling away, and probably consists of 4,000 souls 

"The coast of Labrador is the edge of a vast solitude of rocky hiUs, split and 
blasted by the frosts, and beaten by the waves of the Atlantic, for unknown ages. 
Every form into which rocks can be washe.l and broken is visible along its almost 
interminable shores. A grand headland, yellow, brown, and black, in its horrid 
nakedness, is ever in sight, one to the north'of you,one to the south Here and there 
upon them are stripes and patches of pale green, — mosses, lean grasses, and dwarf 
shrubbery. Occasionally, miles of precipice front the sea, in which the fmcy may 
roughly shape all the structures of human art. —castles, palaces, and temples. Im- 
agine an entire side of Broadway piled up .'olidlv, one, two, three hundred feet in 
height, often more, and exposed to the charge of the great AHantic rollers, rush- 
ing into the churches, halls, and spacious buildings, thundering through the dnor- 
wa3^s, dashing in at the windows, sw(>eping up the lofty fronts, twisting the very 
cornices with silvery spray, filling back in bright green scrolls and cascades of sil- 
very foam ; and yet, all this imagined, can never rench the sentiment of these 
pi-ecipices. More frequent than headlands and perpendicular sea-fronts are the 
.■^ei-^lopes, often bald, tame, and wearisome to the eye, now and then the perfection 
of all that is picturesque and rough, — a precipice gone to pieces, its softer por- 
tions dissolved down to its roots, its flinty bones left standing, a .savage scene that 

scares away all thoughts of order and de-ign in nature This is the rosy time 

of Labrador (July). The blue interior hills, and the stony vales thnt wind up 
among them from the sea, have a summer-like and pleasant air. I find myi^elf 
peopling these regions, and dotting their hills, valleys, and wild shores with human 
habitations. A second thought — and a mournful one it is — tells me that no men 
toil in the fields away there : no women keep the house off there : there no children 
play b\- the brooks or shout around the country school-house : no bees come home 
to the hive ; no smoke curls from the farm-house chimney : no orchard blooms ; 
no bleating sheep fieck the mountain-sides with whiteness, and no heifer lows in 
the twilight. There is nobody there : there never was but a miserable and scat- 



224 Route G2. BATTLE HARBOR. 

tered few, and there never will be. It is a great and terrible wilderness of »•. thou- 
sand miles, and lonesome to the vei-y wild animals and birds. Left to tne still vis- 
it.itiou of the ligat from tne sun, moon, and stars, and the aurorul fires, it is only 
fie to look upon and t:ien be given over to its primeval solitariness. But for the 
living things of its waters, — tne cod, the saimon, and the.^eal, — which bring taou- 
sands of adventurous fishermen and traders to its bleak shores, Labrador would be 
as desolate as Greenland. 

" For a few days the woolly flocks of New England would thrive in Labrador. 
Luring these few days tnere are thousands of her fViir daughters who would love to 
tend them. 1 prophesy the time is coming whea the invalid and tourist from the 
States will be often found spending the brief but lovely summer here, notwithstand- 
ing its ruggedness and desolation " (Rev. L. L. Noble) 

" Wild are the waves which lash the reefs along St. George's bank ; 
Cold on the coast of Labrador the fog lies white and dank ; 
Through storm, and wave, and blinding mist, stout are the hearts which man 
The fishing-smacks of Marblehead, the sea-boats of Cape Ann. 

" The cold north light and wintry sun glare on their icy forms. 

Bent grimly o'er their straining lines, or wrestling with the storms ; 
Free as the winds they drive before, rough as the waves they roam, 
They laugh to scorn the slaver's threat against their rocky home." 

John G. Whittier. 

62. The Atlantic Coast of Labrador, to the Moravian Mis- 
sions and Greenland. 

The mRil-steamer leaves Battle Harbor fortnightly during the summer (see page 
200, for distances). 

Battle Harbor is a sheltered roadstead between the Battle Islands and 
Great Caribou Island, ^ M. long and quite narrow. It is a great resort for 
fishermen, whose vessels crowd the harbor and are moored to the bold 
rocky shores. Small houses and stages occupy every point along the 
sides of the roadstead, and the place is very lively during the fishing sea- 
son. On the W. is Great Caribou Island, which is 9 M. around, and the 
steep-shored S E. Battle Island is the easternmost land of the Labrador 
coast. The water is of great depth in this vicinity, and is noted for its 
wonderful ground-swell, which sometimes sweeps into St. Lewis Sound in 
lines of immense waves during the calmest days of autumn, dashing high 
over the islets and ledges. An Episcopal church and cemetery were con- 
secrated here by Bishop Field in 1850, and the nephew of Wordsworth 
(the poet) was for some years its rector. The first Esquimaux convert 
was baptized in 1?57. 

Fox Harbor is 3-4 hours' sail from Battle Island, across St. Lewis 

Sound, and is an Esquimaux village with igloes, kayak.«, and other curious 

things pertaining to this unique people There is a wharf, projecting into 

the narrow harbor (which reseml)les a moiuitain-lakc); and the houses are 

clustered about a humble little Episcopal clmrcb. 

" Tariboii IfsTaiid fronts to the N. on the b;i,v 5-6 M , T should think, and i'' 
a rugged mountain-pi'e of dnrk gray rock, rounded in its upiun- ni;isscs. and slnshcd 
along i's shores with abrupt chasms. It driijis s'lort olT, .-it its cii'^tcvn exh-o'ni'-'-, 
into a narrow gnlf of de<>p water. Tliis is Baffle II\rl>or. TIu> bill(i\v\ iii'e of iiiiieon'< 
rock, perhaps 250 ft high, lying between this quiet water and t'le broad .\tlantic, is 
Battle Island, and the site of the town At this moment (July) the rocky isle, 



SANDWICH BAY. Roule O'J. 225 

bombarded by the ocean, and flayed by the sword of the bla.'^t for months in the 
year, is a httlo paradise of lieauty. There are fields of mossy carpet that sinks be- 
neath the fi'Ot, witu beds of such delicate tiowers as one seldom sees. . . .1 have 
never seen such fairy loveliness as 1 tiud here upon this bleak islet, where nature 
pceniS to have been pku iug at Switzerland. Green and yellow mosse.'^, ankle-deep 
and spotted wim blood-rcd stjiins, carpet the crajjs and Uttle vales and cradle-like 
hollows. Wonderful to behold 1 tiowers pink and white, yellow, red, and blue, are 
countless as dew-drops, and breathe out upon the pure air their odor, so spirit-like. 
.... Little gorges and chasms, overhung with miniature precipices, wind gracefully 
from the summits down to meet the waves, and are filled, where the sun can warm 
them, with all bloom and sweetness, a kind of wild greenhouse." 

Tlie course is laid from Battle Harbor N. across St. Lewis Sonnd, -which 
is 4 M. wide and 10 M. deep (to Fly Island, beyond which is the St. Lewis 
River, which contains myriads of salmon). Passing the dark and rujrged 
lulls (500 ft. high) of Cape St. Lewis, the steamer soon reaches the small 
but secure haven of Spear Harbor^ where a short stop is made. The next 
port is at St. Francis Harbor, -which is on Granby Island, in the estuary 
of the deep and navigable Alexis River. An Episcopal church is located 
here. In this vicinity are several precipitous insulated rocks, rising from 
the deep sea. The harbor is ^ M. W. of Cape St. Francis, and is deep and 
■well protected, being also a favorite resort for the fishing fleets. 

Cape St. Michael is next seen on the W., 11 M. above Cape St. Francis, 
with its mountainous promontory sheltering an island-studded bay. Be- 
yond the dark and rugged Square Island is the mail-port of Dead Island. 
Crossing now the mouth of St. Michael's Bay, and passing Cape Bluff 
(which may be seen for 50 M. at sea), the steamer next stops between 
Venison Island and the gloomy cliffs beyond. Running next to the N., 
on the outside of a great archipelago, the highlands of Partridge Bay are 
slowly passed. 

The Seal islands are 24 M. N. E of Cape St. Michael, and 18 M. beyond 
is Spotted Island, distinguished by several w^hite spots on its lofty dark 
cliffs. To the E. is the great Island of Ponds, near -\vhich is Batteau Har- 
bor, a mail-port at which a call is made. The next station is at Indian 
Tickle, which is a narrow roadstead between Indian Island and the high- 
lands of Mulgrave Land. Stopping next at S. E. Cove, the course is laid 
from thence to Indian Harbor, on the W. side of Huntington Island. This 
island i« 7 M. long, and shelters the entrance to Sandwich Bay (the Esqui- 
maux Netsbnctilxe), which is 6-9 M. -wide and 54 M. deep, with 13-40 
fathoms of water. There are many picturesque islands in this bay, and on 
the N. shore are the Mealy Mts., reaching an altitude of 1,482 ft. On the 
W. side are Eagle and West Rivers, filled with salmon; and East River 
runs into the bottom of the bay, coming from a large lake where immense 
numbers of salmon, trout, and pike may be found. 4 M. from the mouth 
of East River is the small settlement of Paradise. 

At the head of this great bay are The Narrow.^, -n'ith Mount Nat and its bold 
foothills on the S. " On either side hills towered to the height of a thousand feet, 
wooded with spruce from base to summit, and these twin escarpments abutted ranges 
10* O 



226 Route 62. MORAVIAN MISSIONS. 

of bold bluffs whose shadows seemed almost to meet midway in the narrow channel 
that separated them. Through this grand gloomy portal there was an unbroken 
vista for miles, until the channel made an abrupt turn that hid the water from 
view ; but the great gorge continued on beyond till it was lost in blue shadow." 
On the N. shore of the Narrows is the Hudson's Bay Company's post of Kigolette, 
occupying the site of an older French trading-station. At the head of the Narrows 
is Melville Lake, a great inland sea, all along whose S. shore are the weird and won- 
derful volcanic peaks of the lofty Mealy Mountains. 120 M. S. W. of Rigolette, by 
this route, is the H. B. Company's post of Norvvest, situated a little way up the 
N W. River, near great spruce forests. This is the cAai trading-post of the Moun- 
taineers, a tribe of the great Cree nation of the West, and a tall, graceful, and spir- 
ited people. In 1840 they first opened communication with the whites. It was this 
tribe, which, issuing from the interior highlands in resistless forays, nearly exter- 
minated the Esquimaux of the coast 300 M. from Fort Norvvest is Fort Nascopie, 
situated on the Heights of Land, far in the dark and solitary interior. In that vicin- 
ity are the Grand Falls, which the voya^eurs claim are 1.000 ft. high, but Factor 
M'Lean says are 400 ft. high, — and below them the broad river flashes down through 
a canon 300 ft. deep, for over 30 M. 300 M. from Fort Nascopie are the shores of 
tJngava Bay. (The Esquimaux-Bay district is well described in an article by Charles 
Hallock, Harper's Magazine, Vol. XXII.) 



The Moravians state that the Esquimaux are a proud and enterprising people, low 
in stature, with coarse features, small hands and feet, and black wiry hair. The 
men are expert in fishing, catching seals and managing the light and graceful boat 
called the kayak, which outrides the rudest surges of tUe sea ; while the women are 
skilful in making garments from skins. Agriculture is impossible, because the 
country is covered with snow and ice for a great part of the year. They call them- 
selves Innuits ("men"), the term Esquimaux (meaning "eaters of raw flesh") 
being applied to them by the hostile tribes to the SV. On the 500 M. of the Atlantic 
coast of Labrador there are about 1,000 of these people, most of whom have been 
converted by the Moravians. They live about the missions in winter, and as.semble 
from the remotest points to celebrate the mysteries of the Passion \Veek in the 
churches. They were heathens and demon-worshippers until 1770, when the Mora- 
vian Brethren occupied the coast under permission of the British Crown Tiiey were 
formerly much more numerous, but have been reduced by long wars with the 
Mountaineers of the interior and by the ravages of the small-pox. The practice of 
polygamy has ceased among the tribes, and their marriages are celebrated by the 
Moravian ritual. The mi. sionaries do considerable trading with the Indians, and 
keep magazines of provisions at their villages, from which the natives are freely fed 
during seasons of famine. At each station are a churcli, a store, a mission-house, 
and shops and warm huts for the converted and civilized Esquimaux, who are fast 
learning the mechanic arts. The Moravian mission-ship makes a yearly visit to the 
Labrador station, replenishing the supplies and carrying away cargoes of furs. 

Hopedale is 300 M. N. W. of the Strait of Belle Isle, and is one of the 
chief Moravian missions o :i the Labrador coast. It was founded in 1782 by the en- 
voys of the cliurch, and has grown to be a centre of civilizing influences on this 
dreary coast. Its last statistics olaini for it 35 houses, with 4(3 fan.ilies and 248 per- 
sons ; 49 boats and 49 kayaks ; and a church containing 74 communicants and 85 
baptized children. The mean annual temperature here is 27" 82'. The church is a 
neat plain building, where the men and women occupy opposite sides, and Germau 
hymns are sung to the accompaniment of the violin. 

Kain is about 80 M. N. W, of Hopedale, and has about 300 inhabitants, of whom 
95 are communicants and 94 are baptized children. It was founded by three Mora- 
vians in 1771, and occupies a beautiful position, facing the ocean from the bottom 
of a narrow haven. It is^ja 57° N. latitude (same latitude as the liebi'ides), and the 
thermometer sometimes u'larks 75° in sunmier. while spirits freeze in the intense cold 
of winter. 0/;/;a A; is about 120 M N. \V of Nain, towards Hudson Strait, and is a 
Tery successful mission which dates from 1776. The station of Hebron is still farther 
up the coast, and has about 300 inhabitants. 

Far away to the N. E., across the broad openings of Davis Strait, is 
Cape Desolation, in Greenland, near the settlements of Julianshaab. 



CHATEAU BAY. Route 63. 227 

63. The Labrador Coast of the Strait of Belle Isle. 

At Battle Harbor the XortluM-n Coastal steamer connects with the 
Labrador mail-boat, which proceeds S. W. across the mouth of St. Charles 
Channel, and touches at Cape Charles, or St. Charles Harbor, entering be- 
tween Fishtlake and Blackbill Islands. This harbor is deep and secure 
(though small), and is a f\\vorite resort for the fishermen. As the steamer 
passes the Cape, the round hill of St. Charles may be seen about 1 M. 
inland, and is noticeable as the loftiest highland in this district. Niger 
Sound and the Camp Islands (250-300 ft. high) are next passed, and a 
landing is made at Chimney Tickle. 1^ M. S. W. of the Camp Islands is 
Torrent Point, beyond which the vessel passes Table Head, a very pic- 
turesque headland, well isolated, and with a level top and precipitous 
sides. It is 200 ft. high, and is chiefly composed of symmetrical columns 
of basalt. To the S. are the barren rocks of the Peterel Isles and St. 
Peter's Isles, giving shelter to St. Peter's Bay. In the S. PL may be seen 
the dim lines of the distant coast of Belle Isle. On the N. is the bold 
promontory of Sandwich Head. The deep and narrow Chateau Bay now 
opens to the N. W., guarded by the cliffs of York Point (1.) and Chateau 
Point (on Castle Island, to the r.), and the steamer ascends its tranquil 
sheet. Within is the noble fiord of Temple Bay, 5 M. long, and lined by 
lofty highlands, approached through the Temple Pass. On the r. is the 
ridge of the High Beacon (959 ft.). Chateau is a small permanent village, 
with a church and a large area offish-stages. In the autumn and winter 
its inhabitants retire into the back country, for the sake of the fuel which 
is aftorded by the distant forests. The port and harbor are named for the 
remarkable rocks at the entrance. There are fine trouting-streams up 
Temple Bay; and vast numbers of curlews visit the islands in August. 

" This castle is a most remarkable pile of basaltic rock, rising in vertical columns 
from an insulated bed of granite. Its height from the level ol the ocean is upward 
of 200 ft. It is composed of regular five-sided prisms, and on all sides the ground is 
strewn with single blocks and clusters that have become detached and fiUen from 

their places [It] seemed like some grim fortress of the feudal ages, from whose 

embrasures big-mouthed cannon were ready to belch forth flame and smoke. On the 
very verge of the parapet across stood out in bold relief in the gleaming moonlight, 
like a sentinel upon his watch-tower." (Uallock, describing Castle Island.) 

Chateau was formerly considered the key of the northern fisheries, and its pos- 
session was hotly contested by the Euglish and French. At the time of the de- 
population of Acadia a number of its people fled hither and established a strong 
fortress. This work still remains, and consists of a bastioned star-fort in masonry, 
with gun-platforms, magazines, and blot k-houses, surrounded by a deep fosse, be- 
yond which were earthworks and lines of stockades. It was abandoned in 1753. 
and is now overgrown with thickets. In 1763 a British garrison was located at 
Chateau, in order to protect the fisheries, but the place was captured in 1778 by the 
American privateer Minervn, and 3 vessel* and £70,000 worth of property were 
carried away as prizes. In 1796 the post was again attacked by a French fleet. A 
long bombardment ensued between the frigates and the shore-batteries, and it was 
not until their ammunition was exhausted that the British troops retreated into the 
back country, after having burnt the village. In 1535 the French exploring fleet 
under the command of Jaques Cartier assembled here. 



228 Route 63. STRAIT OF BELLE ISLE. 

After emerging from Chateau Ba}', the course is laid around York 
Point, and the Strait of Belle Isle is entered (with Belle Isle itself 18 
M. E.). The Labrador coast is now followed for about 25 M., with the 
stern front of its frowning cliffs slightly indented by the insecure havens 
of Wreck, Barge, and Greenish Bays. Saddle Island is now seen, w th 
its two rounded hills, and the steamer glides into Red Bay, an excellent 
refuge in whose inner harbor vessels sometimes winter. Large forests are 
seen at the head of the water, and scattering lines of huts and stages show 
evidences of the occupation of the hardy northern fishermen. Starting 
once more on the voyage to the S. W., at 7 M. from Red Bay are seen the 
Little St. Modeste Islands, sheltering Black Bay, beyond which Cape 
Diable is passed, and Diable Bay (4 M. W. S. W. of Black Bay). 3 M. 
farther to the W. the steamer enters Loup Bay, rounding high red cliffs, 
and touches at the fishing-establishment and hamlet of Lance-au-Loup 
(which views the Newfoundland coast from Point Fei'olle to Cape Nor- 
man). Field-ice is sometimes seen off this shore in the month of June. 
Capt. Bayfield saw 200 icebergs in the strait in August. 

The course is now laid to the S. W. for 3-4 M., to round Point Amour, 
which is at the narrowest part of the strait, and has a fixed light, 155 ft. 
high, and visible for 18 M. From the Red Cliffs, on the E. of Loup Bay, 
it is but 11 M. S. S. E. to the coast of Newfoundland. 

" The Battery, as sailors call it, is a wall of red sandstone, 2-3 M. in extent, with 
horizontal lines extending from one extreme to the other, and perpendicular fissures 
resembling embrasures and gateways. Swelling out with grand proportions toward 
the sea, it has a most mihtary and picturesque appearance. At one point of this 
huge citadel of solitude there is the resemblance of a giant portal, with stupendous 
piers 200 ft. or more in elevation. They are much broken by the yearly assaults of 
the frost, and the eye darts up the ruddy ruins in surprise. If there was anything 
to defend, here is a Gibraltar at hand, with comparatively small labor, whose guns 
could nearly cross the strait. Beneath its pi'ecipitous cliffs the debris slopes like 
a glacis to the beach, with both smooth and broken surfa-es, and all very hand- 
somely decorated with rank herbage The red sandstone shore is exceedingly 

picturesque. It has a right royal presence along the deep. Lofty semicircular 
promontories descend in regular terraces nearly down, then sweep out gracefully 
with an ample lap to the margin. No art could produce better effect. The long 
terraced galleries are touched with a tender green , and the well-hollowed vales, now 
and then occurring, and ascending to the distant horizon between ranks of rounded 
hills, look green and pasture-like Among the very pretty and refreshing fea- 
tures of the coast are its brooks, seen occasionally falling over the rocks in white 
cascades Harbors are passed now and then, with small fishing-tieets and dwell- 
ings." (Noble.) 

The steamer enters Forteau Bay, and runs across to the W. shore, where 
are the white houses of a prosperous fishing-establishment, with an Epis- 
copal chui'ch and rectory. About the village are seen large Esquimaux 
dogs, homely, powerful, and intelligent. This bay is the best in the strait, 
and is much frequented by the French fishermen, for whose convenience 
one of the Jersey companies has established a station here. On the same 
side of the harbor a fine cascade (100 ft. high) is seen pouring over the 
cliffs, and the fresh-water stream which empties at the head of the bay 
contains large numbers of salmon. 



BLANC SABLON. Rni>tc G.j. 220 

7 M. beyond Forteau, Wood Island is passed, and the harbor of Blanc 
Sablon is entered. To the W. are Rradore Bay and Bonne Esperance Bay, 
with their trading-stations; and a few miles to the N. W. are the Bradore 
Hills, several rounded summits, of which the chief is 1,264 ft. high. 

Blanc Sablon is on tlie border-line between the sections of Labrador 
■which belong, the one to the Province of Quebec, the other to Newfound- 
land. It is named from the white sands Avhich are brought down the 
river at the head of the bay. Several of the great fishmg-companies of 
the Isle of Jersey have stations here, and the harbor is much visited in 
summer. Blanc Sablon is at the W. entrance to the Strait of Belle Isle, 
and it is but 21 M. from the Isle-a-Bois (at the mouth of the bay) to the 
Newfoundland shore. The village is surrounded by a line of remarkable 
terraced hills. On Greenly Island, just outside of the harbor, 32 sail of 
fishing-vessels were lost on the night of July 2, 1856. 

Following the trend of the N. coast of the Gulf of St. Lawrence, Blanc 
Sablon is distant from Esquimaux Bay 20 M., from Quebec nearly 800 M., 
and (in a straight line) 218 M. from Anticosti (see Eoute 65). 

From Blanc Sablon the steamer retraces her course through the Strait 
of Belle Isle to Battle Harbor. 

64. The Labrador Coast of the Gulf of St. Lawrence.— The 
Mingan Islands. 

The ports along this coast may be reached by the American fishing-schooners, 
from Gloucester, although theie can be no certainty when or where they will touch. 
Boats may be hired at Blanc Sablon to convey passengers to the W. 

Qucbi'C to the Moisic liicer. 

The steamer leaves Quebec for the SToisic River every week, 

and may be hired to call at intermediate ports. The passage occupies 30-40 hours, 
and the cabin-fare js !$20 (including meals) The round trip to Moisic and back 
takes nearly a week. 

The N. shore of the Gulf of St. Lawrence is a region which is unique in its dreari- 
ness and desolation. The scenery is wild i;nd gloomy, and the shore is faced with 
barren and storm-beaten hills. The chmate is rigorous in the extreme. This dis- 
trict is divided into three parts, — the King's Posts, with 270 M. of coast, from Port 
Neuf to Cape Cormorant ; the Seigniory of Mingan, from Cape Cormorant to the 
River Agwanus (135 M.) ; and the Labrador, extending from the Agwauus to Blanc 
Sablon (15(5 M.). Along this 561 M of coast there are (census of 1861) but 5,413 in- 
habitants, of whom 2,612 are French Canadians and 833 are Indians. 1,754 are fish- 
ermen, and 1,038 hunters. In the 5S0 M. there are but 380 hovises, 67^2 arpents of 
cultivated land, and 12 horses. There are 3,841 Catholics, 570 Protestants, and 2 
Jews. 

The wide Bradore Bny is near Blanc Sablon, to the W., and has been 
called "the most picturesque spot on the Labrador." In the back coun- 
try are seen the sharp peaks of the Bradore Hills, rising from the wilder- 
ness(l,264 ft. high). The bay was formerly celebrated for its numerous 
humpbacked whales. The village is on Point Jones, on the E. side of 
the bay. 



230 Route 64. ESQUIMAUX BAY. 

Brad ore Bay is of great extent, and is studded with clusters of islets, which 
make broad divisions of the roadstead. It was known in ancient times as La Bate 
des Lettes, and was granted by France to the Sieur Le Gardeur de Courtemanche 
(who, according to tradition, married a Princess of France, the daughter of Henri 
iv.)' That nobleman sent out agents and officers, named the new port Pheh/peaiix, 
and built at its entrance a bulwark called Fort Pontchartrain. From him it de- 
scended to Sieur Foucher, who added the title " de Labrador " to his name ; and there 
still exists a semi-noble family in France, bearing the name of Fouc/ie? de. Labrador. 

On this bay was the town of Brest, which, it is claimed, was founded by men 
of Brittany, in the year 1508 If this stateoient is correct, Brest was the first Euro- 
pean settlement in America, antedating by over thirty years the foundation of St. 
Augustine, in Florida. In 1535 Jaques Gartier met French vessels searching for this 
port. About the year 1600 Brest was at the height of its prosperity, and had 1,000 
permanent inhabitants, 200 houses, a governor and an almoner, and strong fortifica- 
tions. After the subjugation of the Esquimaux by the Montaignais, it was no longer 
dangerous to establish small fishing-stations along the coast and Brtst began to 
decline rapidly. Ruins of its ancient works may still be found here. 

The Bay of Bonne-Espei'ance is one of the most capacious on this coast, 
and is sheltered from the sea by a double line of islets. The port is called 
Bonny by the American fishermen, who resort here in great numbers 
during the herring-season. The islands before the harbor were passed by 
Jaques Cartier, who said that they were "so numerous that it is not pos- 
sible to count them." They were formerly (and are sometimes now) called 
Les Isles de la Demoiselle; and Th^vet locates here the tragedy of Eober- 
val's niece Marguerite (see page 221). 

Esquimaux Bay is N. of Bonne-Esperance, and is 8 M. in circumference. 

2 M. above Esquimaux Island is a small trading-post, above which is the 

mouth of the river, abounding in salmon. There is a great archipelago 

between the bay and the Gulf of St. Lawrence. On one of these islands 

an ancient fort w^as discovered in the year 1840. It was built of stone and 

turf, and was surrounded by great piles of human bones. It is supposed that 

the last great battle between the French and Montaignais and the Esquimaux 

took place here, and that the latter were exterminated in their own fort. 

13 M. W. of Whale Island are Mistanoque Island and Shecatica Bay, beyond Lob- 
ster and Rocky Harbors. Port St. Augustine is 15 M. VV. of Mistanoque, beyond 
Shag Island and the castellated highlands of Cumberland Harbor. A line of high 
islands extends hence 21 M. W. by S. to Great Meccatina Island, a granite rock 2x3 
M. in area, and 500 ft. high. The scenery in this vicinity is remarkable for its gran- 
deur and singular features. 58 M. from Great Meccatina Island is Cape Wkittle ; and 
in the intervening course the Watagheistic Sound and Wapitaguu Harbor are passed. 
A fringe of islands extends for 6-8 M. off this coast, of which the outermost are 
barren rocks, and the large inner ones are covered with moss-grown hills. 



" Now, brothers, for the icebergs 

Of frozen Labrador, 
Floating spectral in the moonshine 

Along ihe low black shore 
"Where like snow the gannet s feathers 

On Brador s rocks are shed, 
And the noisy murr are flying, 

Like black scuds, overhead ; 

" Where in mist the rock is hiding, 

And the sliarp reef lurks below, 
And the white squall lurks in summer, 

And the autumn tempests blow ; 
Where, through gray and rolling vapor, 

From evening unto morn, 
A thousand boats are hailing, 

Horn answering unto horn. 



' Hurrah .' for the Red Island, 

With the white cross on its crown ! 
Hurrah I for Meccatina, 

And its mountains bare and brown 1 
Where the Caribou's tall antlers 

O er the dwarf -wood freely toss. 
And the footstep of the Mic'kmack 

Has no sound upon the moss. 

Hurrah ! — hurrah ! — the west-wind 

Comes freshening down tlie bay, 
The rising sails are filling, — 

Give way, my lads, give way 1 
Leave the coward landsmen clinging 

To the dull earth, like a weed, — 
The stars of heaven shall guide us, 

The breath of heaven shiill speed I " 
John G. Wuittieks Song oJ the Fishermen, 



THE MI NO AN ISLANDS. R.uitc C4. 231 

From the qiiautity of wreck found among these islands, no doubt many melan- 
choly shipwiviks have taken place, which iiave never been heard of; even if the 
unfortunate crews landed on the barren rocks, they would perish of cold and hunger. 

The "eggers" carry on their illegal business along these shores, where millions 
of sea-birds have tlu'ir breeding-plaves. They lanil on the islanils ;ind break all the 
eggs, and when the birds lay fresh ones they gather them up, and load their boats. 
There are about 2U vessels engaged in this contraband trade, carr\ing the eggs to 
Halifax, Quebec, and Boston. " These men combine together, and form a strong com- 
pany. They sutfer no one to interfere with their business, driving away the fisher- 
men or any one else that attempts to collect eggs near where they happen to be. 
Might makes right with them, if our information be true They have arms, and 
are said by the "lishernien not to be scrupulous in the u.«e of them. As soon as they 
have filled one ves.<el with eggs, they send her to market; others follow in succes- 
sion, so that the market is always supplied, but never overstocked. One vessel of 25 
tons is said to have cleared & 200 by this ' egging ' business in a favorable season." 
{yautical Magazine.) 

To tlie W. of Cape Whittle are the Wolf, Coacocho, Olomanoslieebo, 
Wash-.shecootai, and Musquarro Elvers, on the last three of which are 
posts of the Hudson's Bay Company. Next come the Kegashka Bay and 
Eiver, the cliffs of Mont Joli, the cod banks off Natashquan Point, and 
several obscure rivers. 

The Mingan Islands are 29 in number, and lie between the moun- 
tainous shores of lower Labrador and the island of Anticosti. They 
abound in geological phenomena, ancient beaches, denuded rocks, etc., 
and are of very picturesque contours. About their shores of limestone 
are thick forests of spruce, birch, and poplar; seals and codfish abound 
in the adjacent waters; and wild fowl are very plentiful in the proper sea- 
son. Large Island is 11 M. in circumference; and JMingan, Quarry, 
Xiapisca. Esquimaux, and Charles Islands are 2-3 M. in length. Ihey 
front the Labrador coast for a distance of 45 M. 

There are about 600 inhabitants near the island-% most of wli'^m are In- 
dians and Erench Acadians, for whose spiritual guidance the Oblate Fathers 
have established a mission. The chief village is at Minyan Harbor, on 
the mainland, back of Harbor Island; and here is a post of the Hudson's 
Bay Company. The harbor is commodious and easy of access, and has 
been visited by large frigates. The salmon and trout fisheries of the 
Seigniory of ]\Iingan are said to be the best in the world. Long Point is 
due X. of the Perroquets, 6 ]M. from Mingan Harbor, and is a modern fish- 
ing-village fronting on a broad beach. The fish caught and cured here 
are sent to Spain and Brazil, and form an object of lucrative traffic. The 
fishermen are hardy and industrious men, generally quiet, but turbulent 
and desperate during their long drinking-bouts. 

The Seigniory of the Mingan Islands and the adjacent mainland was granted to 
the i^ieur Francois Bissot in 1661, and the feudal rights thus conveyed and stiil main- 
tained by the owners have greatly retarded the progress of this distiict. The walrus 
fi.<heries were formerly of great value here, and their memory is preserved by ^S'ulrns 
Island, on whose shores the great sea-cows used to land. " In 1852 tiiere was not a 
single establishment on the toast, between the Bay of Mingan and the teven Isles, 
and not a quintal of codfish was taken, except on the banks of Mingan and at the 
Kiver St. -John, which the American fishermen have frequented for many yeai'3. 
Now, there is not a river, a cove, a creek, which is not occupied, and every year there 



232 Route 64. THE MINGAN ISLANDS. 

are taken 30-35,000 quintals of cod, without counting other fish." " The once 
desolate coasts of Mingan have acquired, by immigration, a vigorous, moral, and 
truly Catholic population. The men are generally strong and robust, and above all 
they are hardy seamen." 

On the W. edge of the Mhigan Islands are the Perroquets, a cluster of 
low rocks where great numbers of puffins burrow and rear their young. 
On these islets the steamships Clyde and North Briton were wrecked (in 
1857 and 1861). 

A beach of white sand extends W. from Long Point to the St. John 
River, a distance of 18-20 M. The river is marked by the tall adjacent 
peak of JNIount St. John (1,416 ft. high); and furnishes very good fishing 
(see G. C. Scott's " Fishing in American Waters "). 

The Manitou River is 34 M. W. of the St. John, and at 1| M. from its mouth it 
makes a grand leap over a cliff 113 ft. high, forming the most magnificent cataract 
on the N. shore. The coast Indians still repeat the legend of tlie invasion of this 
country by the Micmacs (from Acadia), 200 years ago, and its heroic end The hos- 
tile war-party encamped at the falls, intending to attack the Montaignais at the 
portages, for which purpose forces were stationed above and belosv. But the local 
tribes detected their presence, and cut off the guards at the canoes, then surprised 
the detachment below the falls, and finally attacked the main body above. After 
the unsparing carnage of a long night-battle, the Micmacs were conquered, all save 
their great wizard-chief, who stood on the verge of the falls, singing songs of de- 
fiance. A Montaignais chief rushed forward to take him, when the bold Micmac 
seized his opponent and leaped with him iuto the foaming waters. They were both 
borne over the precipice, and the falls have ever since been known as the Manitousin 
(Conjurer's) Falls. 

The Moisic River is about 40 M. W. of the Manitou River, and empties 
into a broad bay which receives also the Trout River. At this point are 
the Moisic Iron Works, near which there are about 700 inhabitants, most of 
whom are connected with the mines. This company has its chief office 
in Montreal, and runs a weekly steamer between Moisic and Quebec (see 
page 231). There is a hotel here, where visitors can get plain fare at $5 
a week (no liquors on the prem.ises). Large quantities of codfish and sal- 
mon are exported from Moisic. 

The Seven Islands are a group of barren "mountain-peaks, starting 
.suddenly from the ocean," and situated several leagues W. of the mouth 
of the Moisic River. They were visited by Cartier (1535) who reported 
that he saw sea-horses here; and in 1731 they were included in the 
Domaine du Roi. The trading-post which was estal^Iished here by the 
French, 140 years ago, subsequently reverted to the Hudson's Bay Com- 
pany, and is visited by 3-400 Nasquapee Indians. Since the departure 
of the H. B. Company, the post itself has lost its importance, but all ves- 
sels trading on the N. shore are now obliged to get their clearances here. 
The ^lontaignais Indians had a broad trail running thence up a vast and 
desolate valley to Lake St. John, 300 M S. W., and the Moisic River was 
part of the canoe-route to Hudson's Bay. The Montaignais were here 
secure from the attacks of the dreaded Mohawks on the one side, and the 
maritime Esquimaux on the other, and here they received the Jesuit mis- 
sionaries. 



THE SEVEN ISLANDS. Route 64. 233 

The Fccnery of the Bay of Seven Islands is famed for its wild beauty and weird 
desolation. The bay is 7 M. long, and is sheltered by the islands ai:d a uioiuitainous 
promontory on the W. The inin.ediate shore is a fine sandy beai li, ba( Ic of which 
are broad lowlands, and " the two jiarailel ranges of mount;iins, vhicb aild so mucli 
to the beauty of the distant srer.ery of this hay, look like huge and in peni'trable 
barriers between the coast and the howling wilderness bo^ ond them "' In tlie spring 
and autumn this bay is vi,«ited by ni.^riads of duck.'^, geese, brant, and otiier wild 
fowl, and the salmon-fishing in the adjacent streams i.s of great value. The Great 
Bout is the loftiest of tbe l^^even Islands, reachirg an altitude of 700 ft. above the 
sea, and coumiauding a broad and magnificent view. There are about 300 inhab- 
itants here, a large proportion of whom aie Indians who are engaged in the fur- 
tnide. On Carrousel Island is a fixed light, 195 ft. above the sea, which is visible 
for 20 M. 

From Carrousel Island to the St. Margaret River it is 8 M. ; to the 
Cawee Islands, 24; to Sproule Point, 28; and still farther W. are the 
Pentecost River and English Point, off which are the Egg Islands, bear- 
ing a revolving -white light, which warns off mariners from one of tlie mo^t 
dangerous points on the coast. 

In the spring of 1711 the British government sent against Quebec 15 men-of-war, 
under Admiral Sir Hovenden Walker, and 40 transports containing 5,000 veteran 
soldiers. During a terrible August storm, while they were ascending the Gulf of 
St. Lawrence, the fleet drove down on the Egg Islands. 'J'he frigates were saved 
from the shoals, but 8 transports were wrecked, with l,3b3 men on board, and 
'"884 brave fellows, who had jiassed scathkss thiough the sanguinary battles of 
Blenheim, Ramillies. and Oudenarde, perished miserably on the de>olate shores 
of the St. Lawrence.'" This terrible loss was the cause of tb.e total failure of the ex- 
pedition. The French vessels which vi.sitcd the isles after Walker's disaster " found 
the wrecks of 8 large vessels, from which the cannon and best articles had been re- 
moved, and nearly 3,Q0O persons drowned, and their bodies lying along the shore. 
They recognized among them two whole companies of the Qucen-s Guards, dis- 
tinguished by their red coats, and several Scotch families, intended as settlers in 
Canada," among them seven women, all clasping each other's hands. The regi- 
ments of Kaine, Windresse, Seymour, and Clayton were nearly annihilated in this 
wreck. '' The Frt-nch colony could not but recognize a Providence which watched 
sineularly over its preservation, and which, not satisfied with rescuing it from 
the gi-eatest danger it had yet run, had enriched it with the spoils of an enemy 
whom it had not had the pains to conquer ; hence they rendered Him most heart- 
felt thanks." (Charlevoix.) 

Beyond the hamlet on Caribou Point and the deep bight of Trinit}' Bay- 
is Point de Monts (or, as some say. Point aux Demons), 280 M. from Que- 
bec. There is a powerful fixed light on this promontory. 8 M. beyond is 
Godhont^ with its fur-trading post; and 9 M. farther W. is Cape St. Nicho- 
las. 18 I\I. from the cape is Manicouagan Point, 20 M. W. of Avhich is the 
great Indian trarling-post at the Bersimis River, where 700 Indians have 
their headquarters; thence to Cape Colombier it is 11^ M.; and to the 
church and fort at Port Nevfh is 12 M. Point Mille Vaclies is opposite 
Biquette, on the S. shore of the St. Lawrence, and is near the Sault de 
Mouton, a fall of 80 ft. There are several settlements of French Catholic 
farmers along the shore. At Les Esammains there are 500 inhabitants 
and considerable quantities of grain and lumber are shipped. The coast 
is of gran'te, steep and bold, and runs S. W. 16 M. to Petite Berf/eronne, 
whence it is 5^ M. to the mouth of the Saguenay River. 



234 Route 65. ANTICOSTI. 

65. Anticosti. 

The island of Anticosti lies in the mouth of the St. Lawrence River, and 
is 118 M. long and 31 M. wide. In 1871 it had about 80 inhabitants, in 
charge of the government lights and stations, and also 50 acres of cleared 
land and 3 horses. Fox River is 60 M. distant; the Mingan Islands, 30 M.; 
and Quebec, about 450 M. The island has lately been the scene of th6 
operations of the Anticosti Land Company, which designed to found here 
a new Prince Edward Island, covering these peat-plains with prosperous 
farms. The enterprise has as 3'et met with but a limited success. 

Anticosti has some woodlands, but is for the most part covered with 
black peaty bogs and ponds, with broad lagoons near the sea. The bog? 
resemble those of Ireland, and the forests are composed of low and stunted 
trees. The shores are lined with great piles of driftwood and the frag- 
ments of wrecks. There are many bears, otters, foxes, and martens ; also 
partridges, geese, brant, teal, and all manner of aquatic fowl. The months 
of July and August are rendered miserable by the presence of immense 
swarms of black flies and mosquitoes, bred in the swamps and bogs. 
Large whales are seen off these shores, and the early codfish are also found 
here. Fine limestone and marble occur in several places ; and marl and 
peat are found in vast quantities. There are lighthouses at S. W. Point, 
S. Point (and a fog-whistle), W, Point (and an alarm-gun), and Heath's 
Point. The government has established supply-huts along the shores 
since the terrible wreck of the Gr aniens, on the S. E. point, when the crew 
reached the shore, but could find nothing to eat, and were obliged to devour 
each other. None were saved. 

In 1690 one of Sir William Phipps's troop-ships was wrecked on Anticosti, during 
the retreat from Quebec, and but 5 of its people survived the winter on the island. 
When the ice broke iip, these brave fellows started in a row-boat for Boston, 900 M. 
distant ; and after a passage of 44 days thev reached their old home in safety. The 
island was granted in 1691 to the Sieur Joliet, who erected a fort here, but was soon 
plundered and ejected by the English. In 1814 H. B. M. frigate Leopard,, 50, the 
same vessel which captured the U S. frigate Chesa-peake was lost here. 

" The dangerous, desolate shores of Anticosti, rich in wrecks, accursed in human 
suffering. This hideous wilderness has been the grave of hundreds ; by the slowest 
and ghastliest of deaths they died, — starvation. Washed a.shore from maimed and 
sinking ships, saved to destruction, they drag their chilled and battered limbs up the 
rough rocks ; for a moment, warm with hope, they look around with eager, strain- 
ing eyes for shelter, — and there is none : the failing sight darkens on hill and forest, 
forest and hill, and black despair. Hours and days waste out the lamp of life, until 
at length the withered skeletons have only strength to die." (Eliot Warburton.) 

Ill 1885 Anticosti was bought by F. \V. & T. G. Stock well, merchants 
of (Quebec and London, who iiave stores at pjii;lisli Bay, McDonald Cove, 
and Fox Bay, and are Irving to colonize tlie island. At the beginning of 
J888 there were 300 residents, including nnuiy Yarnionth (Kng.) Iisherm'en. 

Barley and garden vegetables grow well.' The many short rivers on the 
S. side, rapid and dangei'ous in spring, aliound in tront and salmon. The 
Juniper River \» mora than 50 M. long, with cliarming scenerv. The i^. 
siiore is heavily wooded (pine, ash, etc.). The ciiief llshing-viilage is at 
English Bay. In the autumn the Canadian (iovirnmeiit is sometimes 
oblijjjed to remove the starving Anticostians to civilized commdnities. 



PROVINCE OF QUEBEC. 



Quebec is bounded on the W. by the Province of Ontario, on the N. by 
the wilderness towards Hudson's Bay, on the E. by Maine, Labrador, and 
the Gulf of St. Lawrence, and on the S. by New Brunswick, New Eng- 
land, and New York. It covers 188,088 square miles, and its scenery is 
highly diversified and often mountainous, contrasting strongly with the 
immense prairies of Ontario. The stately river St. Lawrence traverses the 
Province from S. AV. to N. E., and receives as tributaries the large rivers 
Ottawa, Richelieu, St. Maurice, and Saguenay. The Eastern Townships 
and Gasp^ Peninsula are famed for their fine highland scenery, amid which 
are beautiful lakes and glens. 

The Province of Quebec ha> 1,488,586 inhabitants (census of 1891), the 
vast majority of whom are of French descent and language. 1,170,718 of 
the people are Roman Catholics, and the laws of education are modified to 
suit the system of parish-schools. There are 68,797 Church-of-England 
people, 50,287 Presbyterians, and 39,221 Methodists; 1,073,820 are of 
Fnnch origin, 123,749 Irish, 81.515 English, and 54,923 Scottish. 

The Dominion of Canada is ruled by a Governor-General (appointed by 
the British sovereign) and Privy Council, and a Parliament consisting of 
8 ) senators (24 each from Ontario and Quebec, 12 each from Nova Scotia and 
New Brunswick, and 9 from P. E. Island, Manitoba, and British Columbia) 
and 208 members of the House of Commons. There is one member for each 
17,000 souls, or 89 for Ontario, 65 for Quebec, 21 for Nova Scotia, 16 for New 
Brunswick, 6 each for Priice Edward Island and British Columbia, and 5 
for M:initol)a. There are 30,144 Canadian militiamen, with a military 
school at Kingston ; and the navy consists of 8 armed screw-steamers (on 
the lakes and the fiulf ). In 1800 Canada had 240,000 inhal)itants ; in 1825. 
581,920; in 1851, 1,812,265; in 1871, 3,657,887; in 1881, 4,^24,810; and in 
18j1, 4,829,411. Between 1842 and 1872, 831,168 emigrants from Great 
Biitain entered Canada; and in the same period, 4,338,086 persons, from 
the same kingdom, emigrated to the United States. The exports and im- 
ports of Canada amount to about 390,000,000 a year. Her chief trade is 
wilh Great Britain and the United States, and the main exports are bread- 
stuffs and timber. The Dominion has over 10,000 M. of railways, and 
there are more than 6,000 post-ofiices. 

The first European explorer who visited this country was Jacques Car- 



236 PROVINCE OF QUEBEC. 

tier, who landed at Gaspe in 1534. and ascended the St. Lawrence to the site 
of Montreal during the following; year. Seventeen years later the ill-fated 
Roberval founded an ephemeral colony near Quebec, and thereafter for 
over half a century Canada was unvisited. In 1603 Champlain ascended 
to the site of Montreal, and Quebec and Montreal were soon founded; while 
the labors of explorations, m ssions, and fighting the Iroquois wei-e carried 
on without cessation. In 1629 Canada was taken by an English fleet under 
Sir David Kirke, but it was restored to France in 1632. The Companj^ of 
the Hundred Associates was founded by Cardinal Richelieu in 1627, to 
erect settlements in La Nouvelle France^ but the daring and merciless in- 
cursions of the Iroquois Indians prevented the growth of the colonies, and 
in 1663 the company was dissolved. Finally, after they had exterminated 
the unfortunate Huron nation, the Iroquois destroyed a part of Mon- 
treal and many of its people (1689). The long and bitter wars between 
Canada and the Anglo-American colonies had now commenced, and New 
York and New England were ravaged by the French troops and their allied 
Indians. 

Naval expeditions were sent from Boston against Quebec in 1690 and 
1711, but they both ended disastrously. Montreal and its environs were 
several times assailed by the forces of New York, but most of the fighting 
was done on the line of Lake Champlain and in the Maritime Provinces. 
At last these outposts fell, and powerful British armies entered Canada on 
the E. and W. In 1759 Wolfe's army captured Quebec, after a pitched 
battle on the Plains of Abraham; and in the following year Montreal was 
occupied by Gen. Amherst, with 17,000 men. The French troops were 
sent home; and in 1763, by the Treaty of Paris, France ceded to Great 
Britain all her immense Canadian domains. There were then 67,000 
French people and 8,000 Indians in the Province. 

The resident population was conciliated by tolerance to their religion 
and other liberal measures, and refused to join the American Colonies 
when they revolted in 1775. The army of Gen. Montgomery took Montreal 
and the adjacent country, but the Canadians declined either to aid or to 
oppose the Americans; and when Arnold was defeated in his attempt to 
storm Quebec, the Continental forces were soon driven back into the 
United States. In 1791 the Provinces of Upper Canada and Lower Canada 
were formed, in order to stop tlie discontent of the English population, who 
were tlius separated from tlie French seitlements to the K. 

Ill 1791 ivpre>entati\'c y-overniiuMit wa^ estal)li>hed, and in 1793 slavery 
was abolished. The War of 1812 was waged beyond the boundaries of 
Lower Canada, except during the abortive attempt of the Aniericnns to 
capture Montreal. In 1837 revolutionary uprisings occurred in various 
parts of Ca'-ada, and were only put down after much bloodshed. In 1840 
the two Provinces were united, after which the seigniorial tenures were 
abolished, decimal currency was adopted, the laws were codified, and other 



PROVINCE OF QUEBEC. 237 

improvements took place. The ciipitul, which luid been shifted from 
Kingston to Montreiil, and then to Toronto, was estaljlished by tlie Queen 
at Ottawa in 18G0. The French and English deputies in Parliament were 
still at odds, and after a long wrangle in 1864, the attention of the country- 
was drawn to the old project of confederation which was at last realized 
in 1867, and Canada ^then d vided into Ontario and Quebec) and the Mari- 
time Provinces were consolidated into the Dominion of Canada. Since 
that day the councils of the Imperial Government have manifested a de- 
sire to give independence to the new State; and the Dominion, endowed 
with autonomic powers, has made rapid advances, building great railways, 
bridges, and canals, and forwarding internal improvements. Meantime 
Ontario has gained a preponderating power in the national councils, and 
the statesmen of Quebec are now maturing plans for the energetic devel- 
opment of the natural capabilities of the Province, hoping thereby to 
restore the Province of Quebec to her former pre-eminence and to popu- 
late her waste places. 

" Like a Tirg^in goddess in a primeval world, Canada still walks in unconscious 
beaut}- amou^; her golden woods and along the margin of her trackless streams, 
catching but broken glances of her radiant majesty, as mirrored on their surface, 
and scarcely dreams as yet of the glorious future awaiting her in the Olympus of 
nations. =' (Earl op Dufferin.) 



" The beggared noble of the early time became a sturdy country gentleman ; 
poor, but not wretched ; ignorant of books, except possibly a few scraps of rusty 
La;in picked up in a Jesuit school ; hardy as the hardiest woodsman, yet never for- 
getting his quality of gent illwmme ; scrupulously wearing its badge, the sword, and 
copying as well as he could the fashions of the court, which glowed on his vision 
across the sea in all the effulgence of Versailles, and beamed with reflected ray from 
the chateau of Quebec. He was at home among his tenants, at home among the 
Indians, and ncTer more at home than when, a gun in his hand and a crucifix on 
his breast, he took the war-path with a crew of painted savages and Frenchmen 
almost as wild, and pounced like a lynx from the forest on some lonely farm or out- 
lying hamlet of New England. How New England hated him, let her records tell. 
The recMe-!t blood-streaks on her old annals mark the track of the Canadian genlil- 
homme '■'■ (Paukman) 



" To a traveller from the Old U'orld, Canada East may appear like a new coun- 
try, and its inhabitants like colonists ; but to me, coming from New England, .... 
it appeared as old as Normandy itself, and realized much that 1 had heard of 
Europe and the Middle Ages. Even the names of humble Canadian villages affected 
me as if they had been those of the renowned cities of antiquity. To be told by a 
haVjitant, when I asked the name of a village in sight, that it is St. FertoU or St. 
Anne, the Guardian Angel or the Holy .Tosepli.'i ; or of a mountain, that it was 
Be'ange or St. Hyatinthef As soon as you leave the States, these saintly names 
begin. St. John is the first town you stop at, and thenceforward the names of the 
mountiiins and streams and villages reel, if I may so speak, with the intoxication 
of poetry, — Chanibly, Longueuil, Puinte aiix Trembles, Bartholomy, etc., etc., — as 
if it needed only a little foreign accent, a few more liquids and vowels perchance in 
the language, to make us locate our ideals at once. 1 began to dream of Provence 
and the Troubadours, and of places and things which have no existence on the 
earth. They veiled the Indian and the primitive forest, and the woods toward Hud- 
son's Bay were only as the forests of France and Germany. I could not at once 
bring myself to believe that the inhabitants who pronounced daily those beautiful 
and, to me, significant names lead as prosaic lives as we of New England. 



238 Route 66. PiCTOtJ TO QUEBEC 

" One of th€S tributaries of the St. Anne is named La Riviere de la Rose, and far- 
ther east are La Riviere de la Blondetle and La Riviere de la Friponne. Their very 
riviere meanders more than our river [It is] a more western and wilder Arca- 
dia, methinks, than the world has ever seen ; for the Greeks, with all their wood 
and riyer gods, were not so qualified to name the natural features of a country as 
the ancestors of these French Canadians ; and if any people had a right to substi- 
tute their own for the Indian names, it was they. They have preceded the pioneer 
on our own frontiers^ and named the prairie for us.'" (Thoreau. ) 

On the question as to whether the Canadians speak good French, Potherie says 
that " they had no dialect, which, indeed^ is generally lost in a colony." Charle- 
voix observed (about 1720) : "The French language is nowhere spoken with greater 
purity, there being no accent perceptible." Bougainville adds: "They do not 
know how to write, but they speak with ease and with an accent as good as the 
Parisian." Prof. Silliman says that they speak as good French as the common 
Americans speak English . 

From the voluminous work of M. Rameau, entitled La France aux Colonies — 
Acadiens et Canadiens (Paris, 1859), we learn that in the year 1920 the valleys of 
the Saguenay, Ottawa, and Lower Ht. Lawrence shall be occupied by a Franco- 
Canadian nation of 5,000,000 souls ; that the mournful vices, " impoverishment of 
intelligence, and corruption of manners," which the Anglo-American race in the 
United States has suffered, shall be opposed and checked by the fecund genius of the 
French race, and the " scientific and artistic aptitudes of the t^anadians," emanating 
continent-enlightening radiance from the walls of the Laval University ; that the 
dissolute barbai'ism of the Americans shall be ameliorated by the sweet influences 
of the "Greco-Latin idea" of the Franco-Canadians; and that that agricultural 
and intellectual people, " the general and essential principle of whose material and 
intellectual power is in their religious faith and in the simplicity of their manners," 
shall profit by the sad experience of Old France, — and under the conservative influ- 
ences of a social aristocracy shall erect a New France, to be forever illustrious in its 
culture " de Vesprit^ la modestie des mceurs, la liberie et la religion.'''' 

66. Pictou to Quebec. — The Coasts of Gaspe and the Lower 
St. Lawrence. 

This voyage is full of interest to the lover of fine scenery, and leads 
through some of the most attractive parts of the Provinces. The vessels 
pass the lofty highlands of Nova Scotia, the Acadian districts on the 
sandy shores of New^ Brunswick, the stately mountains about the Bay of 
Chaleur, and the frowning ridges of Gaspe. Then comes the ascent of 
the majestic St. Lawrence, with its Avliite French villages, its Alpine 
shores, and romantic history, terminated by the quaint mediteval towers 
of Quebec, "the Walled City of the North." The steamers are large and 
comfortable, and are quite steady in ordinary seasons. The cabin-tables 
are well supplied, and the attendance is good. There is but little danger 
from sea-sickness, except in very breezy weather (see also page 3). 

This route is served by the vessels of the Quebec Steamship Company. 

Passengers leave Halifax by railway every other Monday morning, and 
connect with tlie steamship which leaves Pictou on the same evening, call- 
ing at (/harlottetown and Summerside (Prince Edward Island), 
Gaspe, Father Point, and Quebec, arriving at the latter port on Thursday, 
and proceeding at once to Montreal, where she arrives next morning. Re- 



CARLETON. Ronle 66. 239 

turninjr, the steamer leaves Montreal on IMonday, and Quebec on Tues- 
day, and arrives in Piotou on Saturday niorning. Connections are made 
with steamboats for the inner ports of the Bay of Chaleur, at Perc('', and 
travellers may thus reach the line of the. Intercolonial Railway at Cainp- 
bellton. 

The Baie-de«;-Chaleurs Railway run-; fnmi Metapedia to rjirlfon 40 M.), 
and is being extended to Paspobiac (100 M.), and Gaspc' (170 M.). 

Steamers ply between Dalhousie and Maria, wliich is near the famous 
saluioM-tisliinir grounds of tlie Grand Cascapedia River, long freouented 
by l'rr,-idcnt Arthui-, Lords Lome, Dufferin, and Lansdowuc, and ethers. 

Halifax to Pictou, see Route 31. St. John to Shediac, see Route 14. 

After leaving Pictou Harbor, the steamship passes out between Caribou 
Island and Pictou Island («ee also page 175), and enters the Northumber- 
land Strait. On the S. are the dark highlands of Pictou County, among 
whose glens are scattered settlements of Scottish people. 10-12 M. N. are 
the low hills of Prince Edward Island. The deep bight of Tatamagouche 
Bay (see page 81) is passed about 35 M. W. of Pictou, and the blue and 
monotonous line of the Cobequid Mts. may be seen in the S., in very clear 
weather. Beyond Bale Verte the steamer passes through the narrow 
part of the Strait between Cape Traverse and Cape Tormentine, and the 
low red shores of Prince Edward Island are seen on the r. The course is 
next laid along the level Westmoreland coast (see page 59), and the har- 
bor of Shediac is entered. 

The general aspect of the N. Shore of New Brunswick is described in 
Route 15 (page 60). It is to be remembered, however, that the Gulf- 
Ports steamships do not stop at Richibucto, Bathurst, or Campbellton. 
Having, then, described the coast from Shediac to Dalhousie in Route 15, 
the present route will follow the shores of the great Gaspesian peninsula. 
The Quebec steamers no lunger visit Carleton and Paspebiac. 

As the steamship leaves the estuary of the Restigouche, the red sand- 
stone clilfs of Mar/uacha Point are passed, on the 1., beyond which is the 
broad lagoon of Carleton Road. The beautiful peak of * Tracadiegash 
is now approached, and after passing the lighthouse on Tracadiegash 
Point, the white village of Carleton is seen on the Quebec siiore. This 
place has about 800 inhabitants and a convent, and is snuglv situated 
under the lee of the mountains, near a bay which is secure during gales 
from the N. and E. Immense schools of herring visit these shores during 
the springtime, at the spawning season, and are caught, to be used as food 
and for fertilizing the ground. The village is enterprising and active, and 
is inhabited chiefly by Acadians. The steamer stops off the port if there 
are any passengers or freight to be landed. 

For Perce, Gaspe, Paspebiac, etc., see Centunj Mdfjnzlne, March, -884. 



240 Route 66. PASPEBIAC. 



" Carleton is a pretty town, to which a steamer sometimes runs from Camp- 
bellton, rendering the salmon streams in the vicinity quite accessible. When the 
sun shines, its white cottages, nestling at the foot of the majestic Tracadiegash 
Mountain, glisten like snow-flakes against the sombre background, and gleam out 
in lovely contrast with the clouds that cap the summit of this outpost sentinel of 
the Alleghany range." (Hallock.) 

The steamer now passes out upon " the undulating and voluptuous Bay 
of Chaleur, full of long folds, of languishing contours, which the wind 
caresses with fan-like breath, and whose softened shores receive the flood- 
ing of the waves without a murmur." On the N. is Cascapediac Bay, on 
whose shoi-es are the Acadian and Scottish hamlets of Maria and New 
Richmond, devoted to farming and the fisheries. The rugged peaks of the 
Tracadiegash range are seen in fine retrospective views. 

New Carlisle is near the mouth of the Grand Bonaventure River, and is 
the capital of Bonaventure County. It has 700 inhabitants, and is en- 
gaged in the fisheries, having also a few summer visitors. The churches 
and court-house occupy a conspicuous position on the high bank which 
overlooks the bay. This town was founded in 1785 by American Loyal- 
ists, who I'eceived from the government one year's provisions, lands, seeds, 
and farming-implements. $400,000 was expended in establishing this 
settlement and Douglastovvn. 

Paspebiac ( The Lion Inn ) is a village of 400 inhabitants, situated on 
the N. shore of the Bay of Chaleur, 440 M. from Quebec. Its harbor is 
formed by a fine beach of sand 3 M long, curving to the S., and forming 
a natural breakwater against the sea during easterly gales. The church 
and houses of the village are bu It above the red cliffs of the shore^and 
present the neat and orderly appearance of a miUtary post. On the line 
of the beach are the great white (and red-trimmed) storehouses and ship- 
yards of Charles Robin & Co. and Le Boutillier Brothers, the mercantile 
establishments which sustain the place. 

Robin & Co. is an ancient house which dates from 1768, and has its headquarters 
at the Isle of Jersey, off the coast of France. Paspebiac was settled in 1766 by Charles 
Robin, who established hero a large fishing station. In June, 1778, the place was 
taken by two American privateers, which cai'ried away the vessels Hope and Bee. 
The whole fleet was soon afterward captured by H. B. M frigates Hunter and Piptr, 
but Robin was forced to pay such heavy salvage that it ruined his business. In 
1783 he came back here under French colors, and in 20 years accumulated a great 
fortune The firm of Charles Robin & Co. is now the most powerful on all these 
coasts, and keeps large fleets employed, supporting numerous villages from 7 wealthy 
establishments. The heads of the firm live in Jersey, and their officers and man- 
agers on this coast are forced by rule to lead a life of celibacy. This company em- 
ploys 750 men, besides 17 vessels and 151 sailors ; and the LeBoutilliers have 580 
men and 15 vessels. They export vast quantities of fish and oil to the West Indies 
and the Mediterranean, supplying their Canadian posts, in return, with all needed 
products of other countries. Paspebiac receives SP 100,000 worth of goods yearly, 
and exports $300,000 worth offish. The best fish is sent to the Mediterranean in 
bulk, the second grade goes in tubs to Brazil, and the poorest is shipped in casks 
to the West Indies. The Jersey fleet reaches Paspebiac early in May, spends the 
summer fishing in the bay and Gulf, and returns in December. The American mar- 
ket is sujiplied by the Cape-Ann fleet in these waters ; and the proceeds of the au- 
tumnal months ai-e sold in Upper Canada- The annual yield of the Bay of Chaleur 
is estimated at 26,000 quintals of dry codfish, JSOO quintals of haddock, 3,000 bar- 



CAPE DESPAIR. Route GG. 241 

reli of herring, 300 barrels of salmon, and 15,000 irallons of cod-oil. The fisheries 
of the l>ay and Gulf are valued at § 80l»,000 a year, and employ 1,500 .sail of vessels 
and lS,t-K_W men. 

In January and Februar>- the thermometer .sometimes sinks to 25° below zero, 
and the bay is overhung by dark nuusses of "frost .«moke."' In this sea.son the 
Aurora Borealis is sei-n by nij^ht, illuminating the whole northern horizon with 
steady brilliance. In July and August the thermometer ranges from 65'^ to 106°, 
and the air is tempered by fresh sea-breezes. 

The name Pns/iebiac means *' brokeu banks," and the iuhabitants are called 
Paspy Jacks or I'ospillots. Many of the bits of agate and ja.sper called " Gaspe peb- 
bles ■■ are found on this shore after the gales of spring and autumn, and are sent to 
the jewellei-s of London and Quebec. It is supposed that they come from the con- 
glomerate rocks on the Restigouche River. 

Beyond Paspebiac are the shores of Hope, on which immense masses of 
capHn-fish are thrown up every spring. They are shovelled into wagons 
by the fiirmers and are used to fertilize the land. The next po'nt of in- 
terest is the deep bay of Port Daniel, a safe and Avell-sheltered haven, on 
whose W. shore is a remarkable hill, 400 ft. high. Near the fishing- 
village up the harbor are deposits of oil-bearing shale. The steamer soon 
passes Point Maquereau (which some consider the N. portal of the Bay of 
Chaleur), with Point Miscou on the S. E. 

At midnight on Oct. 15, 1838, the ship Colborne went ashore on Point Maquereau, 
and was soon broken to pieces. Her crew, consisting of 42 men, was lost. The 
cargo was composed of silks, wines, silver-plate, and specie, and was valued at 
over 8 400,000. The wreckers of Gaspe recovered rich treasures from the wreck. 

Newport is 6 M. beyond Point Maquereau, and is inhabited by 200 Aca- 
dian?, who are devoted to the fisheries and to the pursuit of the vast flocks 
of wild fowl which resort to these shores during the spring and autumn. 
Great and Little Pabos are seaside hamlets, 4 and 8 M. farther E. 4 M, 
beyond is Grand River, a large Acadian village clustered about the fish- 
ing-establishment of Robin & Co. It is 7 M. from this point to Cape 
Despair. 

Cape Despair was named by the French Cap cPEspoir, or Cape Hope, and the 
present name is either an Anglicized pronunciation of this French word, or else was 
given in memory of the terrible disaster of 1711. During that year Queen Anne sent 
a great fleet, with 7,000 soldiers, with orders to capture Quebec and occupy Canada. 
The fleet was under Admiral Sir Hoveuden Walker, and the army was commanded 
by Gen. Hill. During a black fog, on the 22d of August, a violent storm arose and 
scattered the fleet in all directions, hurling 8 large ships on the terrible ledges of 
Egg Island (see page 233) and Cape Despair, where they were lost with all on board. 
Fragments of the wrecks, called Le Naufrage Anglais, were to be seen along the 
shores until a recent date ; and there was a wild superstition among the fishermen 
to the effect that sometimes, when the sea was quiet and calm, vast white waves 
would roll inward from the Gulf, bearing a phantom ship crowded with men in 
ancient military costumes. An officer stands on the bow, with a white-clad woman 
on his left arm, and as the maddened surge sweeps the doomed ship on with light- 
ning .speed, a tremendous crash ensues, the clear, agonized cry of a woman swells 
over the great voice of despair, — and naught is seen but the black cliffs and the 
level sea. 

Just beyond Cape Despair is the prosperous fishing-station of Cape Cove, 
9 M. from Percd. The traveller should now be on the lookout for the 
Perc^ Rock and Bonaventure Island. The steamer runs in between the 
Rock and the Island, affording fine views of both. 

11 P 



242 Route GG. PERCE. 

The * Perce Eock is 288 ft. high, rising with precipitous walls directly 
from the waves; and is about 500 ft. long. This citadel-like cliff is pierced 
by a lofty arch, through which the long levels of the sea are visible. Small 
boats sometimes traverse this weird passage, under the immense Gothic 
arch of rock. There was formerly another tunnel, near the outer point of 
the Rock, but its roof fell in with a tremendous crash, and left a great 
obeUsk rising from the sea beyond. 

The summit of the Perce Rock covers about two acres, and is divided into two 
great districts, one of which is inhabited by the gulls, and the cormorants dwell on 
the other. If either of these trespasses on the other's terriory (which occurs every 
fifteen minutes, at least), a battle ensues, the shrill cries of hundreds or thousands 
of birds rend the air, great clouds of combatants hover over the plateau, and peace 
is only restored by the retreat of the invader. When the conflict is between large 
tlocks, it is a scene worthy of close notice, and sometimes becomes highly exciting. 
The Rock is at right angles with Mt. Joli, and is of new red sandstone. The top is 
covered with fine grass. 

Many years ago the Rock was ascended by two fishermen, and the way once being 
found, scores of men clambered up by ropes and carried away the eggs and young 
birds, finding the older ones so tame that they had to be lifted off the nests. This 
vast aviary would have been depopulated long ere this, but that the Perce magis- 
trates passed a law forbidding the ascent of the Rock. There are numerous quaint 
and weird legends attached to this place, the strangest of which is that of Le Genie 
de V lie Percee, a phantom often seen over the plateau. '' It is likely that the founda- 
tion for this legend can be traced to the vapory or cloud-like appearance the vast 
flocks of water-fowl assume when seen at a distance, wheeling in every fantastic 
shape through the air, previous to alighting on the summit." 

The harbor of Perce is very insecure, and is open to the N. E. winds. In 
earlier times this port was called La Terre des Tempetes, so frequent and 
disastrous were the storms. The village has about 400 inhabitants, most 
of whom follow the shore-fisheries in small boats. The town is visited 
every spring and summer by hundreds of stalwart Jersey lads, sent out by 
tlie Le Boutillier Brothers. 

Perce consists of South Beach, where are the white-and-red buildings of 
the Robin establishment; and North Beach, where is the bulk of the popu- 
lation, with the court-house, jail, and Catholic church. The two sections 
are separated by Mount Joli, a lofty promontory which here approaches 
Perc^ Rock. The Episcopal church is a cosey little Gothic structure, 
accommodating 100 persons. Perc6 is "the Elysium of fishermen," and 
hence arises a circumstance which detracts from its value as a summer 
resort, — when the sliore is covered with the refuse parts of codfish, pro- 
ducing a powerful and unpleasant odor. It is said that even the potatoes 
are found to contain fish-bones. 

Back of Perce is the remarkable * Mount St. Anne, with its bold and 
massive square top rising 1,230 ft. above the sea, and visible for a distance 
of 70 M. over the water. This eminence may be ascended witliout great 
trouble, and from its summit is obtained one of the noblest views in the 
Maritime Pi-ovinces. It includes many leagues of tlie savage mountain- 
land of Gasp^, extending also along the coast from the Bay of Cluxleur to 
Gasp^ Bay and Sinp Head. But the marine view is the most attractive 



PERCfi. . Route (JO. 243 

and embraces many leagues of the Gulf of St. Lawrence, with its great fish- 
ing-fleets and squadrons of small boats. It overlooks Bonaventure and 
Perc^ Rock. A fine view is also obtained from the highway near French 
Town, including a vast area of the Gulf, the bird-colonies on top of the 
Rock, Point St. Peter, and Barry Head, with its conspicuous Catholic 
church. The walk around the mountain to the corjier of the beach is full 
of interest; and the road through the hills to Gaspd is picturesque, though 
rough, leading by Corny Beach and through a profound mountain-gorge. 
Mt. St. Anne is also known as ]\It. Joli and the Table Roulantc. Upon its 
red -sandstone slopes are found shell-fossils, jasper, agate, and fine quartz 
crystals. 

* Bonaventure Island forms a great natural breakwater before the 
Perce shores, and is surrounded l)y deep channels. It is 2^ ^l from the main- 
land, and the passage around the island in a small boat affords a pleasant 
excursion. Bonaventure is 2.;^ M. long and | M. wide, and is a vast pile 
of red conglomerate rock, with a line of cliffs 3-r-500 ft. high, facing the 
Gulf over 50 fathoms of water. There are about 300 French Catholics 
on the shores, connected with the fishing-establishment of LeBoutillier 
Brothers. The island was formerly the property of Capt. Duval, a brave 
mariner of the Channel Isles, who, in the privateer Vulture, swept the 
coasts of France during the Napoleonic wars. He is buried on Mount Joli. 

" Perce is one of the curiosities of the St. Lawrence. If one should believe all the 
fantastic stories, to which tradition adds its prestige, that rest about this formidable 
rock, thrown forward into a ceaselessly surging and often stormy sea, like a fearless 
defiance from the shoal to the abyss, it could oulj' be approached with a mysterious 
dread mingleri with anguish. Perce proper is a village of 200 firesides, estabhshed 
on a promontory that seems to guard the St. Lawrence : this promontory is not lofty, 
nor does it compare witli our northern mountains ; but it is wrinkled, menacing, 
full of a fierce grandeur ; it might be said that the long battle with the ocean has 
revealed to it its strength and the posver which it holds from God to restrain the 
waves from passing their appointed bounds. It is an archer of the Middle Ages, 
covered with iron, immovable in his armor, and who receives, invulnerable, all the 
blows of the enemy. In face of the Atlantic, which has beaten it with tempests 
through thousands of centuries, trembling under the eternal shower of the waves, 
but immovable as a decree of heaven, gloomy, thoughtful, enduring without mur- 
mur the wrathful torrents that inundate it, bent downward like a fallen god who 
expiates in an ete,rnity the arrogant pride of a single day, Perc6 fills us at once with 
a sorrowful admiration and a sublime pity."- (Arthur Buies.) 

Perc6 was visited by Car tier in 1534, and thereafter became .a celebrated fishing- 
station for the French fleets. The coast from Canso to Cape Rosier was granted 
soon after, and on its reversion to the Crown this site was bestowed on De Fronsac, 
who founded a permanent village here, while over 500 transient fishermen made it a 
summer rendezvous. Bishop Laval sent the Franciscan.s here in 1673 to look after 
the spiritual welfare of the people, and they erected a chapel at Perce and the 
Church of St Claire on Bonaventure Island. In 1690 the place was taken, with all 
its vessels, by two Britisli frigates, whose crews sacked and burnt all the houses at 
Perc6 and Bonaventure, destroyed the churches, and fired 150 gunshots through 
the picture of St. Peter. In 1711 another naval attack was made by the British, 
and the French ships Hiros and Vermandois were captured in the harbor. In 1776 
a desperate naval combat took place otT Perc6 Rock, between the American pri- 
vateers that had devastated the shores of the Bay of Chaleur and the British war- 
vessels TFoZ/'and diligence. Two of the American vessels were sunk within cannon- 
Bhot of the Rock. 



244 Route 66. GASPE. 

After leaving her anchorage off Perc6 the steamship runs N. across the 
openings of Mai Bay, and at 9 M out passes Point St Peter, witli its fish- 
ing-village. The course is next laid to the N W. up Gaspe Bay, with the 
fatal strand of the Grand Greve on the r. To the 1. is Douglastown, on 
the broad lagoon at the mouth of the St. John River (famous for salmon). 
This town was laid out by Surveyor Douglas, and is inliabited by Irish 
and French people. The vessel now steams in through the narrow strait 
between the grand natural breakwater of Sandy beach and the N. shore, 
and enters the * Gaspe Basin. The bay is 20 M. long and 5 M. wide, 
and the basin is a secure and land-locked harbor at its head. As the 
steamer rounds the lighthouse on Sandybeach, beautiful views are pre- 
sented of the broad haven, with the North River Mts. to the W. 

" The mountains of Gaspe are fair to behold, 
With their fleckings of shadow and gleamings of gold." 

Gaspe [Gulf House) is a town of 800 inhabitants, beautifully situated 
between the mountains and the sea, and fronting on the S. W. arm of the 
basin. It is the capital of the county and a free port of entry, and is de- 
voted to the fisheries, having several whaling-ships and a large fleet of 
schooners. The Gaspe codfish are preferred, in the Mediterranean ports, 
to the Newfoundland fish, because they are not so salty. The chief 
establishment here is that of the LeBoutilliers, who have also a fine 
mansion near the village. Petroleum has been found here, and wells 7 - SOO 
ft. deep have been sunk by two companies. Gasp^ is visited by 2-300 
city people every summer, for the sake of its picturesque scenery, cool 
and sparkling air, and the conveniences for yachting and for fishing. The 
York and Dartmouth Rivers empty into the basin, and are famous for 
their game-fish. The adjacent shores are fertile and are thickly settled, 
and the town itself is rapidly advancing in importance. On a hill to 
the S. is Fort Ramsay, a line of guns among the trees. This is the first 
point N. of Newcastle where the steamer is moored to a wharf. Fort- 
nightly mail -packets run from Gasp^ to Esquimaux Bay, on the Labrador 
coast (see page 230). 

'' What a glorious sight I Imagine a l>ay 20 M. long ending in a basin where a 
fleet of a thousand vessels could be sheltered On right and left, two rivers, which 
are parted by the port, sweep around the amphitheatrical shores ; hills here and 
there of savage outline or covered with rounded lawns ; below, a little line of piers, 
fishing-vessels, schooners and some brigs swinging their slackened sails in the light 
breeze which blows from the shores ; something wild, fresh, and vigorous, like the 
first spring of a great creation The Gasp^ Basin has traits of the giant and of the 
infant; it astonishes and charms ; it has a harmony at once delicate and striking.' 
(Arthur Buies.) 

The Indians of Gaspe were distinguished, in a remote age, for unusual advances 
in civilization. They knew the points of the compass, traced maps of their country, 
observed the positions of the stars, and worshipped the symbol of the cross. They 
informed the early Jesuit missionaries that in far distant ages they were scourged 
by a fatal pestilence, until a venerable man landed on their shore, and arrested the 
progress of the disease by erecting the cross (see Pi;RE Leclerc's NouveLle Relation de 



UASPE! Route GG. 245 

la Ga5pc-"t/e, 1676). It is supposed that this mysterious visitor was a Norseman. The 
name Gnspii means *' land's end," one of its component parts being found also iu 
the aboriginal words Mala-gash, Tracadie-gash, eto. The warlike tribes on this 
shore weiv formerly distinguished for their fierce and victorious forays into the re- 
mote lands of the Montiiignais and Esquiniau.x. 

Prof. Rafu, the great Danish archaeologist, has advanced a theory to the effect 
that Gaspe was a tishing-station of the Non-^e vikings in the 11th, i2th, and 13th 
centuries. It is supposed that it was visited in 1506 by the Spanish mariner A'ela.-^co, 
who ascended the St. Lawrence for 200 leagues, or else by Stefano Gomez, who was 
sailing from Spain to Cuba in 1525, but was blown far from his course, and entered 
the Gulf of St. Lawrence. There is an old Castilian tradition that the gold-.seeking 
Spaniards, finding no precious metals here, said, " Aca nana " (" There is nothing 
here " . This oft-i'epeated phrase became fi.xed in the memory of the Indians, 
though it was not comprehended ; and when Oartier came, they supposed him to be 
of the same people as the previous European visitors, and eudeavored to excite his 
interest by repeating the words, " Aca nada, Aca nuda." He thought that they 
were giving him the name of their nation or country, and so, according to this 
puerile tradition, arose the name of C.a.nada. Another theory of the derivation of 
the name was given by the early Xew-Englanders : " New England is by some af- 
firmed to be an island, bounded on the north with the River Canada (so called from 
Monsieur Cane)."' {Josseiys's New England's Rarities Discovered, 1672.) "From 
this lake nortiiwards is derived the famous River of Canada so named of Monsieur 
de Cane, a French Lord, who first planted a colony of French in America." (M.OR- 
ton's Xew English Canaan, 1632.) 

The generally received account of the origin of the name Canada is that it is an 
Indian compound word. Caugh-na-waiigh-a means " the village of the rapid," its 
first syllable being similar to that of the Indian word Caiis;h-na-daug/i, "village of 
huts"' (also of Caugh-yu-ga, or Cayuga, and Caiigh-na-daiig/L-ga, now Oanan- 
daigua), which has been euphonized into " Canada." A^hen Brant, the Mohawk 
chieftain, translated the Gospel of St. Matthew into his own language, he always 
put Canada for "' a village." 

In April, 1531 (being then in his fortieth year), the bold and sagacious Jaques 
Cartier set sail from ancient St. Malo ("thrust out like a buttress into the sea, 
strange and grim of aspect, breatiiiog war from its walls and battlements of ragged 
stone, — a strongaoid of privateers, the home of a rare whose intractable and de- 
fiant independence n.ither time nor change has subdued"). He was under the 
pati-onage of Philippe de Brion-Chabot, Admiral of France, and was sent forth to 
reconnoitre a new route to Cathay, for the great advantage of European commerce. 
It was also thought that in the new realms beyond the sea the Catholic Church 
might make such conquests as would requite her for the great schisms of Lut'aer and 
Caivin and tlie Anglican Church. The result has nearly justified the hope. 

The intrepid voyager traversed the Strait of Belle Isle, and stretched across to 
the Baiedes Cha'eiirs, which was entered on the 9th of Jul)', and received its name 
from the intense heats which the mariners encountered there. He then lauded at 
Gaspe, and took possession of the country in the name of his Church and Kiug by 
erecting a cross, 30 ft. high, adorned with the tleur-de-lis. Here he met a company 
of warriors from Quebec, campaigning against the natives of this region, and car- 
ried two of them to Frauce. They were introduced to all the splendors of Paris 
and the court of Francis I., and in the following year returned with Cartier and 
piloted his tieet up the St. Lawrence to their home at Stadacona (Quebec). 

" Twenty vessels were laden with stores, food, building implements, guns, and 
ammuniiion : nearly 150 pieces of ordnance were stowed away in the different holds, 
to be mountel upon the walls of Quebec and other forts ; the decks were crowded 
wirh emigraats, male and female; prie.sts were there, burning with redgious zeal; 
and evervthing looked hopeful for their success. The whole fleet was put under the 
command of M. de Roquemont, a French Admiral ; and full of hope and expectation 
they set .sail from Frauce in the month of April, 1627." This stately fleet was over- 
taken by a storm in the Gulf, and took refuge in Gaspe Bay, where they were boldly 
attacked by Captain Kirke"s Enghsh squadron of 3 vessels. Kirke summoned the 
immensely superior French fleet to surrender, but De Roquemont, though unprepared 
for battle, and hampered with freight and non-combatants, sent back a spirited refusal. 
The Kirkes then sailed boldly into the hostile fleet, and after raking the Admiral's 



246 Route 67. THE LOWER ST. LAWRENCE. 

ship, carried it by boarding. The French resisted but feebly, and the whole squad- 
ron fell into the bold Briton's hands. He burnt 10 vessels, and freighted the others 
with the grand train of artillery and the other stores, with which he returned to 
England- Ctiamplain was left in despair, at Quebec ; and the Kirkes were burnt 
in effigy in the Place de Greve, at Paris. 

Gaspe was honored, in ItjbS, by the sojourn of the brave old Baron Dubois d'Av- 
augour, some tine Governor of New France. From this point he sent his celebrated 
memorial to Colbert, the French Prime Minister, after he had been deposed from 
office through the intluence of Bishop Laval and the Jesuits. Hence he sailed to 
France, and soon met a soldier's death in the Croatian fortress of Zrin, which he 
was defending against the Turks. 

In the year 1760 Commodore Byron's powerful fleet entered Gaspe Basin and 
captured the village. The French frigate La Catkarina was in the harbor, but 
was soon taken and destroyed by fire Many \ ears ago the Gaspesian peninsula was 
erected into a province, and the seat of government was located at this town. But 
the number of inhabitants was not enough to warrant the expense of a vice-regal 
court, and the peninsula was reannexed to Quebec. 

In leaving Gaspe Basin the steamship passes the beaches of the N. 
shore, lined with whale-huts and fish-stages, and then runs to the S. E. 
down Gaspe Bay. *Cape Gaspe is 7^ M. N. of Point St. Peter, and 
fronts the Gulf with a line of sandstone cliffs 692 ft. high. Off the S. E. 
point there was formerly a statue-like rock 100 ft. high, called La Vieille 
(the Old Woman), but it has been thrown down by the sea. The Indians 
named this rock Gasejnon, whence the name Gaspe, which is now applied 
to the great peninsula between the Bay o^ Chaleur and the St. Lawrence 
River. Two leagues beyond Cape Gaspe the steamship passes Cape Eosier, 
and enters the St. Lawrence River. 

67. The Lower St Lawrence. 

" The most interesting object in Canada to me was the River St. Lawrence, known 
far and wide, and for centuries, as the Great River. Cartier, its di.vcoverer, sailed 
up it as far as Montreal in 1535, nearly a century before the coming of the Pil- 
grims ; and 1 have seen a pretty accurate map of it so far, containing the city of 
' Hochelaga ' and the river ' yaguenay.' in Ortelius's Theatriim Orbis Terraricm , 
printed at Antwerp in 1575. in which the famous cities of ' Norumbega ' and ' Or- 
sinora ' stand on the rough-blocked continent whei-e New England is to-day, and 
the fabulous but unfortunate Isle of Demons, and Frislant, and others, lie off and 
on in the unfrequented sea, some of them prowling near what is now the course of 
the Cunard steamers. It was famous in Europe before the other rivers of North 
America were heard of, notwithstanding that the n;outh of the Mississippi is said to 
have I een discovered first, and its stre.an was reached by De Soto not long after ; 
but the St. Lawrence had attracted settlers to its cold shores long befoi-e the Missis- 
sippi, or even the Hudson, was known to the world. The first explorers declared 
that the sunmier in that country was as warm as France, and they named one of 
the bays in the Gulf of St. Lawrence the Bay of Chaleur, or warmth ; but they 
said nothing about the winter beiug as cold as Greenland. In the MS account 
of Cartier's second voyage it is called ' the greatest river, without comparison, 
that is known to have tver been seen.' The savyges told him that it wavs the 
^ Cheniin du Canada'' (the highway to Canada), ' winch goes so for that no man 
hath ever been to the end, that they had heard.' The Saguenay, one of its tribu- 
taries, is described by Cartier in 1£35, and still more particularly .by .lean Alphoiise 
in 1542, who adds : ' I think that this river comes from the sea of Cathay, for in 
this place there issues a strong current, and there runs here a terrible tide.' The 
early explorers saw many whales and other sea monsters far up the St. Lawrence. 
Champlain, in his map, represents a whale spouting in the harbor of Quebec, 360 M. 
from what may be called the mouth of the river ; and Charlevoix took his reader to 



CAPE ROSIER. 



Route G7, 



247 



the summit of Onpe Diamoiul to see the ' porpoises, white as snow,' sportinj? on the 
surftioe of the harbor of Quebec. In Champhiin's day it was conunonly called ' the 
Great River of Canada.' More than one nation has claimed it. In Ogilby-s • .\nier- 
ica of I'iTO,' in the map Noci Bcli(i , it is called ' De Ciroote Rivior van Nicw Ne- 
derhmdt * It rises near another fatiier of waters, the Mississipiji, issuing from a 
remarkable spring far up in the woods, called Lake Superior, 1,500 M. in circum- 
ference; and several other springs there are thereabouts which feed it. It makes 
such a noise in its tumbling down at one place as is heard all round the world. 
Bouchette, the Surveyor-General of the Canadas, calls it ' the most splendid river 
on the globe • ; says that it is 2,000 M long (more recent geographers make it 4 - 500 
M. longer ) ; that at the Riviere du Sud it is 11 M. wide ; at the Paps of Mataue, 25 ; 
at the Seven Islands, 73; and at its mouth, from Cape Rosier to the Mingan SetMe- 
ments in Labrador, 9*3 M. wide. It has much the largest estuary, regarding botli 
length and breadth, of any river on the globe. Perhaps Charlevoix describes the 
St Lawrence truly as the most mivi^dble river in the world. Between Montre-il 
and Quebec it averages 2 M. wide. The tide is felt as far up as Three Rivers, 432 
M., which is as far as from Boston to Washington. The geographer Guyot ob- 
serves that the Maranon is 3,000 M. long, and gathers its waters from a surface of 
l,-')00,iX)O square .M. ; that the Mississippi is also 3,000 M. long, but its basin covers 
only 8-900,000 square M. ; that the St. Lawrence is 1,800 M. long, and its ba.sia 
covers 1.000,000 square M. ; and speaking of the lakes, he adds : ' These vast fresh- 
water seas, together with the St. Lawrence, cover a surface of nearly 100,000 square 
M., and it has been calculated that they contain about one half of all the tVesh 
water on the surface of our planet ' Pilots say there are no soundings till 150 M. 
up the St Lawrence. McTag^art, an engineer, observes that ' the Ottawa is larger 
t.ian all the rivers in Great Britain, were they running in one.' The traveller Grey 
writes : ' There is not perhaps in tlie whole extent of this immense continent so fine 
an approach to it as by the river St. Lawrence. In the Southern States you have, 
in general, a level country for many miles inland ; here you are introduced at once 
into a majestic scenery, where everything is on a grand scale, — mountains, woods, 
lakes, rivers, precipices, waterfalls.' We have not yet the data for a minute com- 
parison of the St. Lawrence with the South American rivers; but it is obvious that, 
taking it in connection with its lakes, its estuary, and its fills, it easily bears off 
the palm from all the rivers on the globe." (Freely condensed fiom TaoaE.^u's 
A Yankee in Canada.) 



Bien loin de ses sourbis, sous lombre des 

platanes, 
L'Arabe au blanche burnous qui suit les 
caravancs 
Sur k'S sables errant 
Dccouvre nioins jo3-eux son oasis humide. 
Que les Canadiens sous la saison torride 
Leur fleuve Samt-Laurcnt. 



A nous ses champs d azur et ses fraiches 

rctraites, 
Les ilots couronnes do raourantes aigrettes, 

Les monts audacieux. 
Les aromes piqnants que la nier y dCpose 
Et son grand horizon oil votrc ceil sc repose 
Comme 1 etoile aux cieux. ' 

L. J. C. FiSET. 



Sur ces bords enchantes, notre mere, la 

France, 
A laissG <le su tloire iin imniortel sillon, 
Precipitant ses Hots vers roceati immense, 
Le noble Saint-Laurent redit encor son 

nom. 

" Salut, 6 ma belle patrie ! 
Salut, tiords d'l Saint-Laurent 
Terre que I'etranger envie, 
Et qu il regrette en la quittant 
Heureux qui peut passer sa vie, 



Toujours fidelc a te servir : 
Et dans tes bras, mere chCrie, 
Peut rendie son dernier soupir. 

Salut, 6 ciet de ma patrie ! 
Salut. o noble Saint-Laurent I 
Ton noin dans mon anie nttendrie 
Repand un parfum enivrant. 
O Canada, fils dc la France, 
Qui te couvrit de ses bicnfaits, 
Toi, notre amour, notre csperance. 
Qui pourra toublier jamais 'i " 

O. Ck£mazie. 



Cape Rosier, "the Scylla of the St. Lawrence," is 6 M. beyond Cape 
Gaspe, and is the S. portal of the St. Lawrence River, whose mouth at 
this point is 96 M. wide. At the end of the cape is a stone lighthouse 
tower, 112 ft. high, with a fixed light (visible 16 M.) and a fog-horn. 

The hamlets of Grand Greve, Griffin's Cove, and Cape Rosier 
are in this vicinity, and are inhabited by French people, who are de- 



248 Route 67. CAPE MAGDELAINE. 

pendent on the fishing-establishment of William Hyman & Sons, of 
Gaspe. 

"The coast between Cape Eosier and Cape Chatte is high and bold, free 
from dangers, and destitute of harbors," and is lined with a majestic wall 
of mountains composed of slate and grayw-acke. They are covered with 
forests, and afford successions of noble views, sometimes of ampliithe- 
atrical coves, sometimes of distant vistas of blue peaks up the long gorges 
of the rivers. 

" How can it be that men inhabit this harsh, arid, rough, almost hateful country, 
which extends from Cape Chatte to the Gaspe Basin?' One can scarcely imagine. 
Yet, as you see, here and there appear parcels of tilled land, houses scattered along 
the banks, and little churches at various points." 

" The peninsula of Gasp6, the land's end of Canada towards the E., from its geo- 
logical formation of shale and limestone, presenting their upturned edges toward 
the sea and dipping inland, forms long ranges of beetling clitfs running down to a 
narrow strip of beach, and affording no resting-place even to the fishermen, except 
where they have been cut down by streams, and present little coves and bays open- 
ing back into deep glens, affording a view of great rolling wooded ridges that stand 
rank after rank behind the great sea-cliff, though with many fine valleys between " 

7 M. N. W. of Cape Rosier the settlement at Griffin'' s Core is passed; and 
5 M. farther on is Fox River (Cloridorme), a settlement of 500 persons, with 
one of the I sle-of- Jersey fishing-estab]i>hments, a large Catholic church, 
and a court-house. The cod and mackerel fisheries are followed in the 
adjacent waters, and large American fleets are often seen off tlie port. 
The grand highway from Quebec ends here, but a rugged road runs down 
to Gaspe in 17 M. The inhabitants are nearly all French. 16 M farther 
W. is the haven called Great Pond, 24 M. beyond which is Cape Magde- 
laine (red-and-white revolving light, visible 15-20 M.) at the mouth of the 
River Magdelaine, the home of some of the wildest legends of this region. 

" Where is the Canadian sailor, familiar with this coast, who has not heard of the 
plaintive sounds and doleful cries uttered by the Braillard de la Magdelaine ? 
Where would you find a native seaman who would consent to spend a few days by 
himself in this locality, wherein a troubled spirit seeks to make known the torments 
it endures? Is it the soul of a shipwrecked mariner asking for Christian burial for 
its bones, or imploring the prayers of the church for its repose ? Is it the voice of 
the murderer condemned to expiate his crimes on the very spot which witnessed 
its commission ? . . . . For it is well known that Gaspi? wreckers have not always 
contented themselves with robbery and pillage, but have sometinies sought conceal- 
ment and impunity by making away with victims, — convinced that the tomb is 
silent and reveals not its secrets." The Abb6 Casgrain attributes these weird 
sounds to the fate of a priest who refused to christen a child who afterwards was 
lost by dj ing unbaptized. The conscience-stricken priest faded away to a skeleton, 
and the sound of his moaning has ever since been heard otT these dark shores. An- 
other legend tells that a terrible shipwreck occurred at this point, and that the only 
soul that reached the shore was a baby boy, who lay wailing on the beach through- 
out the stormy night! " Where La Magdelaine runs into the Gulf, horizontal layers 
of limestone, fretted away all around their base by the action of the tides and 
waves, assume the mo^t fantastic shapes, — here representing ruins of Gothic archi- 
tecture, there forming hollow caverns into which the surf rolling produces a moan- 
ing sound, like an unquiet spirit seeking repose." The strange wailing which is 
heard at certain seasons along this shore is otherwise referred to the rush of the 
wind through t.ie pine-trees on the cape, whose trunks grate together with a harsh 
creaking. 



CAPE CHATTE. Route 67. 249 

Pleureuse Point is 12 M. from Cape Magdelalne, and near the remote 
hamlet of Mont Louis. Lines of wild clilTs front the shore for the i ext 28 
M., to Cape St. Anne, near which is the French Catholic village of St. 
Anne des Monts, which has 250 inhabitants and a consulate of Italy. The 
adjacent waters abound in mackerel, cod, halibut, and herring, and great 
quantities of salmon and trout are cauglit in the River St. Anne. The 
stately peaks of the * St. Anne Mountains are seen on the S., com- 
mencing 12 ^L S. \y. of Cape St. Anne and running in a S. W. course for 
40 ^^, nearly parallel with the river and 20-25 M. inland. These moun- 
tains are the most lofty in Canada, and are visible for 80-90 M. at sea, 
in clear weather. The chief peak is 14 M. from Cape Chatte, and is 
3,973 ft. high. 

" All those who come to New France know well enough the mountains of Notre 
Dame, hecau'e the pilots and sailors being arrived at that part of the great river 
which is opposite to those high uiountaius, baptize ordiuarily for sport the new 
passengers, if they do not turn aside by some present the inundation of this baptism 
which is made to flow plentifully on their heads." {Lalem.^nt, 1648.) 

Cape Chatte is 15 M. N. W. of Cape St. Anne, and sustains a white 
flashing liglit which is visible for 18 M. 

Cape Chatte was named in honor of the officer who sent out the expedition of 
1603, under Pontgrave and Lescarbot. His style was Eymard de Chaste, Knight 
of Malta,, Commander of Lormetan, Grand Master of the Order of St. Lazarus, and 
Governor of Dieppe. 

Somewhere in this broad reach of the river occurred the chivalrous naval battle 
between the English war-vessel Abigail and the French ship of Emery de Caen (son 
of Lord de la Motte). The Abigail was commanded by Capt. Kirke, and was sailing 
against Tadousac, when she was attacked (June, 1629) by De Caen. A running fight 
of several hours ensued, until a fortunate cannon-shot from the Abigail cut away 
a mast on the French vessel and compelled her to surrender. The loss on each 
ship was considerable. 

The reach of the St. Lawrence next entered is about 35 M. wide, and 
on the N. shore is Point de Monts (see page 233). It is 33 M. from Cape 
Chatte to Matane, in which the steamer passes the hamlets of Dalibaire 
and St. Felicite. In 1688 the Sieur Riverin established a sedentary fish- 
ery at Matane, devoted to the pursuit of codfish and whales. Sometimes 
as many as 50 whales were seen at one time from the shore. This branch 
of the fisheries has now greatly declined. Matane is a village of 300 in- 
habitants, devoted to farming and lumbering, and is visited by Canadian 
citizens on account of the facilities for sea-bathing on the fine sandy 
beach. There is also good fishing for trout and salmon on the Matane 
River. The remarkable peaks called the Caps of Matane are to the S.W., 
in the great Gaspesian wilderness. In clear weather, when a few miles E. 
of Matane, and \vell out in the river, Mt. Commis may be seen, 40 M. 
distant, S. W. by W. J W., like an island on the remote horizon. 

The shore is now low, rocky, and wooded, and runs S. W. 22 M. to 
Petit Metis, which was populated with Scottish families by its seigneur. 
4 M. from this point is the station of St. Octave, on the Intercolonial Rail- 
way. Metis is a little way W., and is occupied by 250 French Catholics 
11* 



250 Route 67. RIMOUSKI. 

and Scotch Presbyterians. It has a long government wharf ; and the 
people are engaged also in the pursuit of black whales, which are sought 
by schooners equipped with harpoons, lances, etc. N. of Metis, across 
the river, is the great peninsula of Manicouagan, at the mouth of the 
rivers Manicouagan and Outarde, abounding in cascades. 

The steamship comes to otT Father Point, where there is a lighthouse 
and telegraph-station (for .news of the shipping), and a hamlet of 100 in- 
habitants. Here the outward-bound vessels discharge their pilots. Kear 
this place are the hamlets of St Luce and St. Donat, and at St. Flavie, 
15 M. N. E., the Intercolonial Railway reaches the St. Lawrence (see page 
70). A few miles S. E. is Mi. Camille, which is 2,036 ft. high. Father 
Point {Pointe au Pere) was so named because the priest Henri Nouvel 
wintered there in 1663. Canada geese, ducks, and bi-ant are killed here 
in great numbers during the long easterly storms. 

St. Germain de Rimouski {Dominion Hotel) is 6 M. 

from Father Point, and is an incorporated city, an important station on 
the Intercolonial Railway, and the capital of Rimouski County and of a 
Roman-Catholic diocese. It has 1,200-1,500 inhabitants, with a handsome 
cathedral, a Catholic college, convent, episcopal palace, court-house, and 
other public buildings. The Canadian government has built a large and 
substantial wharf out to the deep channel, and a prosperous future is ex- 
pected for the young city. Many summer visitors come to this place, 
attracted by its cool air and fine scenery. 

Rimouski was founded in 1688, and in 1701 a missionary was sent here, who 
founded a parish which has now grown into a strong bishopric. " Rimouski, the 
future metropolis of the Lower St. Lawrence, a little city full of promise and fur- 
rowed already by the rails of the Intercolonial, will have its harbor of refuge where 
the great oce*an-.steamers will stop in passing, and will attract all the commerce of 
the immense region of the Metapedia, the future granary of our country." The 
Rimouski River is famous for its abundance of trout. 

Bainaby Island is low and wooded, and 3 M. long, sheltering the harbor of 
Rimouski. It was knosvn by its present name in 1629, when the iieet of the Kirkes 
a.'^sembkd here. From 1723 to 1767 it was the home of a pious French hermit, who 
avoided women and pas.sed most of his time in his oratory. Some say that he was 
wrecked olf these shores, and vowed to Heaven to abide here if he was saved ; others, 
that he had been di.-appointed in love. In his last hours he was visited by people 
fn^m Rimouski, who found him dying, with his faithful dog Ucking his chilling 
face. 

Bic Island was formerly called Le Pic, but was named St. Jean by Cartier, 
who entered its harbor in 1535, on the anniversary of the decapitation of St. John. 
It was included in the scheme of D'Avaugour and Vauban (in the 17th century) for 
the defence of Canada, and was intended to have been made an impregnable mari- 
time fortress, sheltex'ing a harbor of refuge for the French navy. But thi.s Mont St. 
Michel of the New World never received its ramparts and artillery. The place was 
taken by Wolfe's British iieet of 200 ships, June 18, 1759 : and when the Tie7it alrair 
threatened to involve the United States and Great Britain in war, in 1861. British 
troops were landed at Bic, on the main shore, from the orcrm-stoaniship /Vrsia, 
and were carried hence in sleighs to Riviere du Loup. Near lliis point is L' Islet 
au. Massacre, where, according to tradition, 200 IMiomac Indians were once sur- 
prised at night by the Iroquois, while slumbering in a cavern. The vengeful enemy 
silently filled th(! cave's month with dry wood and then set it on fire, shooting the 
unfortunate Micmncs as thev leaped through the fiames. 195 of the latter were 
slain, and it is claimed that their bones strewed the islet until withiu a few years. 



TROIS PISTOLES. Route 07. 251 

Ste.-Cecile du Bic (two boarding-houses) is a prosperous French vil- 
hige of 600 inliabit:uits, with a good harbor and a hirge and ugly church 
It is 9 M. from Kimouski, and is surrounded by fine scenery. Tlie Bay 
of Bic is "large enough to be majestic, small enough to be overlooked in 
one glance; a shore cut into deep notches, broken with flats, capes, and 
beaches; a background of mountains hewn prodigally from the Avorld's 
material, like all the landscapes of our Canada." The Intercolonial Rail- 
way was carried through this region at a vast expense, and sweeps around 
the flank of the mountain, 200 ft. above the village, affording beautiful 
views. Wonderful mirages are seen off this port, and out towards Point 
de Monts. The highlands immediately over Bic are nearly 1,300 ft. high; 
and the bay receives two rivers, which descend in cascades and rapids 
from the neighboring gorges. As the steamship passes the lighthouse on 
Biquette Island, the remarkable and varied peaks of the mountains to the 
S. will attract the attention by their fantastic irregularity. Between Bic 
and Trois Pistoles, but not visible from the river, are the new French vil- 
lages of St. Fabien, among the mountains; St. Matthieu, w^th its great 
quarries of red stone for the Intercolonial Railway; and St. Simon, near a 
pretty highland lake. 

The rocky islets of Rosatle are 2 M. off the shore of Notre Dame des Ange.s, and are 
decorated with a large cros.-:, in memory of a marvellous escape. Some 30 years ago 
the St. Lawrence froze for (j M. out from the parish, and many hundreds of seals 
■were discovered on the ice. The people gathered and went out to slay these strange 
visitors, hut the ice suddenly broke adrift and was whirled awaj' do\rn the stream. 
There appeared no hope of escape for the 40 men on the outer floes, which were 
now h M from the shore. Their fami.ies and friends bade them an eternal farewell, 
and the village priests, standing at the water's edge, gave them final absolution in 
preparation for the approaching catastrophe. But even while they were kneeling 
on the ice, a bold mariner launched a tiny skiff from the shore and crossed the 
widening belt of tumultuous waters, touched the crumbling edges of the floes, and, 
after many trips back and forth, succeeded in landing every one of the men upon 
the isle of Rosade. Thence they passed easily to the mainland, and afterwards 
erected a cross on Rosade, as a token of their gi-atitude. 

Trois Pistoles (two good hotels) is a thriving village of 650 inhab- 
itants, situated inside of Basque Island (5 M. from the Rosades), and near 
valuable deposits of limestone. There are two Catholic churches here, 
whose construction involved a litigious contest which is still remembered 
in Lower Canada. The beauty of the marine scenery in this vicinity has 
induced sevei'al Quebec gentlemen to build summer cottages here. 

There is a well-founded tradition that in the year 1700 a traveller rode up to the 
bank of the then unsettled and unnamed river and asked the Norman fisherman, 
who was tending his nets near his rude hut, what he would charge to ferry him 
across. "Trois pistoles" (three ten-franc pieces), said the fisher. " What is the 
name of this river ? '" a.sked the traveller. " It has no name : it will be baptized at 
a later day."' " Well, then," said the traveller, "name it Trois Pistoles-'^ The 
river is now famous for its fine trout-fishing. 

" That portion of the St. Lawrence extending between the Saguenay River and 
Goose Island is about 20 M. wide. The .spring tides rise and fall a distance of 18 ft. 
The water is salt, but clear and cold, and the channel very deep. Here may be seen 
abundantly the black seal, the white porpoise, and the black whale." The white 
porpoise yields an oil of the best quality, and its skin makes good leather. 



252 Route 67. KAMOURASKA. 

The Gulf-Ports steamship does not stop between Father Point and 
Quebec, but the villages described in this itinerary may be visited from 
Quebec; those on the S. shore by railway, and St. Paul's Bay, Murray 
Bay, Riviere du Loup, and Rimouski by river-steamers. The N. shore 
from Cape Tourmente to the Saguenay is described in Route 72, 

The vessel steams up by Green Island, which is 6 - 7 M. long, and shel- 
ters the large manufacturing village of Isle Verfe, whence fine butter is 
sent to Quebec. On the r. is Red Island, with its tall stone lighthouse, off 
which is a Hghtship. Cacouna and Riviere du Loup (see Route 72) are 
next passed, on the 1., and the vessel runs W. with the three steep islets 
called the Brandy Pots {Pots-a-P eau-de-vie) on the r. The S. islet bears 
a fixed light; the N. islet is 150 ft. high, of vesiculated conglomerate in 
which almond-shaped bits of quartz are imbedded. In war-time merchant- 
ships wait off the Brandy Pots for their convoying frigates. N. of these 
islets is Hare Island, which is about 10 M. long, and has extensive salt 
marshes, on which herds of cattle are kept. On the 1. are now seen the 
five remarkable islets called The Pilgrims, about I5 M. from the S. shore 
and 45 M. in aggregate length. The Long Pilgrim is 300 ft. high and par- 
tially wooded, and is marked by a lighthouse, 180 ft. above the river. 
The Kamouraska Islands are 6 M. farther W., and over them is seen the 
prettv village of Kamouraska {Beaupre House), with its great Church of 
St. Louis and Congregational Convent. The river water at this point is as 
salt as the sea, and the village was the chief summer resort on the St. 
Lawrence before Cacouna arose. 

" Who does not know Kamouraska ? Who does not know that it is a charming 
village, bright and picturesque, bathing its feet in the crystal of the waters of the 
river like a naiad, and coquettish ly viewing the reflections of its two long ranges of 
white houses, .... so near the river that fnun all the windows the great waves may 
be contemplated and their grand voices heard ? On all sides, except towards the S., 
the horizon extends as far as the e.ve can reach, and is only bounded by the vast blue 
curtai , of the Laurentides. At the N. E the eye rests on a group of verdant isles, 

like a handful of emeralds dropped by the angel of the sea These isles are the 

favorite resort of the strangers who visit Kamouraska There they fish, or bathe, 
or seek other amusements. Le pique-rnqiie is much in vogue there, and the truest 
joys are felt." 

St. Paschal (700 inhabitants) is 5 M. from Kamouraska, on the Grand Trunk 
RaUway. 

" Eel endroit, Saint-Paschal, par sa croupe onduleuse, 
Ses couteaux, ses vallons, sa route sinueuse I 
C'est la Siaisse ou I'Auvergne avec leurs gais chalets, 
Leurs monts, leurs pres en pente et leurs jardins coquets.'" 

Bej'ond Kamouraska the steamer passes Cape Diable, and on the N. 
shore, 22 M. distant, are the bold mountains about Mun-ay Bay (see 
Route 72). On the level plains to the S, is seen the tall Church 0/ St. 
Denis, with its attendant village; and beyond Point Orignaux is the vil- 
lage of Riviere Quelle, famous for its porpoise-fisheries. Near this point 
is the quaint Casgrain manor-house, now over a century old. 

This parish is named for Madam Houel, wife of Comptroller-General Houel, who 
was captured here by Indians in the 17tb century- Near the beach is a rock which 



ST. ANNE DE LA POCATlfiRE. Route 07. 253 

bears the plain impress of three snow-shoes, and formerly had the marks of human 
feet and hands. In 1G90 the priest of Riviere Ouellu led his parishioners, and drove 
back tile New-Entrlauders of J?ir William Phipps's fleet. Back among the hills arc 
the hamlets of Si. Onesiine and St. Paconie. 

St. Ann3 d3 la Pocatierevi9(?sse//o»,e; is a large and prosperous town, 
72 M. below Quebec, with 3,U00 inhabitants, a weekly paper {La Gazette 
des Campagnes), and a convent. ''Nature has given to St. Anne charm- 
ing shores, laden with foliage and with melody, ravishing points of view, 
and verdant thickets, fitted for places of meditation." St. Aime's Coller/e 
is :i stately pile of buildings with pleasant surroundings and a sumptuous 
chapel. It has 30 professors (ecclesiastics) and 230 students, and is main- 
tained in a high state of efficiency. The parks cover several acres, and 
the museum is well supplied. St. Anne's Agricultural School and Model- 
Farm is connected with the college, and has 5 professors (zootechny, rural 
law, etc.). The view from the dome of the college is of great extent and 
beauty. 

As the steamer passes St. Anne the frowning mass of Mt. Eboulements 
is seen on the N. shore. A few miles beyond St. Anne the hamlet of St. 
Roch-des-Aulnaies is passed, on the 1., and still farther to the W. is St. 
Jean-Port-JoU, a pretty little village about which is laid the scene of 
De Gaspe's popular romance, " Les Anciens Canadiens." The Isle aux 
Coudres is far away towards the N. shore. The course is laid in by the 
islet called the Stone Pillar, on which there is a lighthouse, and 1^ M. 
farther W. is the insulated rock of the Wood Pillar. The large and pros- 
perous village of L'Islet (1,000 inhabitants) is seen on the 1. Goose Island 
is passed on the r., and is connected with Crane Island {L' Isle aux Grues) 
by a long alluvial meadow, which produces rich hay, the total length 
being 11 M. Fine sporting is enjoyed here in the spring and autumn, 
wlien great flocks of snipe, plover, and wild geese visit these shores for a 
breeding-place. There is a settlement of about 150 persons on Crane 
Island, whence are obtained noble views of Cape Tourmente. 

During the French regime these islands {Les Isles de Ste -Marguerite) were erected 
into a seigniory and granted to an officer of France. He buiit a massive stone house 
on Crane Island, and was afterwards kept there, in rigorous captivity, by Madame 
de Granville. She claimed that she was his sister, and that he was insane ; but this 
report was doubted by the people of the S. shore, and the island was regarded with 
dread. She kept him in close durance for many years, until at Ust he died. 

Beyond the S. shore village of Caj) St. Ignace (400 inhabitants) the 
steamer passes St. Thomas, the capital of Montmagny County. This town 
has 1,650 inhabitants, and carries on a large local trade. The College 
^Montmagny is located here, and there is also a convent and a large and 
conspicuous church. The broad white band of a cascade is seen at the 
foot of the cove, where the Riviere du Sud falls 30 ft. On the r., beyond 
St. Thomas, is seen a cl^^ster of picturesque islets, over which the massive 
Cape Tourmente frowns. 



254 Route 67. GROSSE ISLE. 

•' At length they spy huge Tounnente, sullen-browed, 
Bathe his bald forehead in a passing cloud ; 
The Titan of the lofty capes that gleam 
In long succession down the mighty stream ; 
When, lo 1 Orleans emerges to the sight, 
And woods and meadows float in liquid light ; 
Rude Nature doffs her savage mountain dress, 
And all her sternness melts to loveliness. 
On either hand stretch fields of richest green, 
With glittering village spires and groves between, 
And snow-white cots adorn the fertile plain." 

GrOSSe Isle formerly appertained to the Ursulines, and is 2^ M. long. 
On its graywacke ledges is the great Quarantine of Canada, where emi- 
grant-ships are detained until thoroughly inspected and purified. The 
island is a vast tomb, so many have been the emigrants who have reached 
these shores only to die, poisoned in the filthy and crowded ships, poorly 
fed and rarely ministered unto. The Quarantine-station is occupied by 
medical and police forces, and is under a rigid code of rules. 

The next town is Berthier, an ancient French parish of 400 inhabitants, 
W. of which is Bellechasse Island, composed of high, steep, and bare gray- 
wacke rocks. On the N. are Reaux Island (150 ft. high) and Madame 
Island, both of which are covered with trees. St. Valier is beyond Belle- 
chasse, and is a place of 200 inhabitants, near which large deposits of bog 
iron-ore have been found. The Isle of Orleans (see Route 71) is now 
approached, on the r., and over it is seen the peak of Mt. St. Anne. 
Nearly opposite St. John (on the Orleans shore) is St. Michel, a lumber- 
working town of 700 inhabitants, in whose spacious church are some 
paintings for which a high value is claimed: St. Clara, by 3fu7'illo{?) ; 
St. Jerome, Boucher ; the Crucifixion, Romanelli ; the Death of the Vir- 
gin, Gouly ; St. Bruno, Philippe de Champagne ; the Flagellation, Chally. 
6 M. beyond St. Michel is Beaumont, a village of 600 inhabitants, oppo- 
site Patrick's Hole, on the Orleans shore. The settlements now grow 
thicker on either shore, and in about 6 M. the steamship passes the W. 
end of the island of Orleans, and opens the grandest **view on the route. 
On the r. is the majestic Montmorenci Fall, on the 1. the rugged heights 
of Point Levi and St. Joseph, and in front the stately cliffs of Quebec, 
ci'owned with batteries, and flowering into spires. 




QUEBEC. 



I. Catholic Cathedral 


f.3. 


2. Anglican ,, 


. E.4. 


3. Wesleyan Church . 


. E.3. 


4. Presbyterian Churci 


E.4. 


3. St. John{Cath.) „ . 


. C.3. 


6. St. Matthew 


D.3. 


7. St. Sauueur „ . 


A. 2. 


8. St. Roch 


C.2. 


9. Notre Dame des 




Victoires .... 


F.4. 


10. Archbishop's Palace E.3. 


II. Seminary 


E.3. 


12. Laual University . 


. F.3. 


13. i^otel Dieu Convent 


E.3. 


14. Ursuiine „ 


E.4. 


15. Gray Sisters „ 


D.3. 


16. Congregational ,, 


C.2. 


17. General Hospital . 


B.2. 


18. Marine „ 


. C.I. 


19. Morrin College. . . 


. E.3. 


20. /("ewt Gate 


D.3. 


21. Cow/'t //owse .... 


E.4. 


22. Crown Lands Dep. 


E.4. 


23. High School .... 


E.4. 


24. Governor's Garden 


E.4. 


25. Custom House . . . 


F.3. 


26. Champlain Market 


. F.4. 




. B.5. 


28. Wolfe's Monument 


. B.6. 


2g. American Consulate F.3. 


30. St. John's Gate . ■ 


D.3. 


31. 5t Louis „ . . 


D.4. 


32. Prescott „ . .E. F. 4. 


33. Hope „ . . 


E.3. 


34. Palace „ ... 


E.3. 



35. St. Louis Hotel . . . E.4. 

36. Stadacona ,, . . . E.3. 

37. Parliament Building D. 4. 

38. Post Office . . . . . E.3. 



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QUEBEC. Route 68. 255 



68. Quebec. 

Arrival. — If the traveller has much baggage, it is best to take a carriage or 
the hotel omnibus to the Upper Town. The cntcrhr is not ad ipted for carrying lug- 
gnse 

Hotels. — The * St.-Louis Hotel, near the Dufferin Terrace, accommodates 500 
guests, at .S3. 50 to §5 a day. The Florence, on St. John Street, outside the walls, 
charges S2.50 to §4 a day The Russell House is at St. Ann and Garden Streets. 
Henchey"s Hotel, near the English Cathedral ; the Mountain-llill House, on 
Mountain-Hill Street ; and Blanchard-s Hotel, in the Lower Town, — charge from 
$1.50 to §2 a day. 

There are several good boarding-houses in the Upper Town, among which are 
those of the Misses Leonard, 3 St. Louis St. ; Mrs. McDonell, 38 St. Louis St ; Mis-< 
Lane, C5 St. Anne St.; Dennis 0"Hare"s, 39 St. Genevieve St. ; Mrs. Escaliere's, 20 
Mt. Oarmel. Comfortable quarters may be obtained at these houses for about $ 10 
a week. 

Carriages in every variety may be procured at the livery-stables, and large 
numbers of them are kept at the stands near the St. Louis Hotel, in front of the Ca- 
thedral, and beyond St. John's Gate. The carriages in the Lower Town are less ele- 
gant and much less expensive than tho.^e within the walls. The rates for excursions 
in the suburbs in summer are from §3 to $4 for 1-3 persons (to Montmorenci 
Falls, Lorette, Cap Rouge, etc.). During the autumn the rates are reduced. The 
ca/ec/ic-drivers of the Lower Town usually demand •$ 2 for carrying 1-2 persons to 
the outer suburban resorts. The caleche is a singular and usually very shabby- 
looking vehicle, perched on two high wheels, with the driver sitting on a narrow 
ledge in front It is drawn by a homely but hardy little horse, and is usually driven 
bv a French Canadian, who urges the horse forward by the sharp dissyllabic cry, 
** Marche-donc! ''' Two-hontse carriages, from one point to another in the city, or 
per hour, for one or two persons, .^l ; for three or four persons, SI. 50. One-horse 
carriages, 50 cents, or 75 cents for three or four persons. Calashes, 25 cents a 
course, 75 cents an hour. 

Morse-Cars run between St. Ours, St. Sauveur, and the Champlain Market, 
every 15 minutes, traversing St. Joseph, St. Paul, and St. Peter Sts. The fare is 5c. 
Another line traverses Buade, Fabrique, and St. .John Sts., in the Upper Town. 

Reading-Rooms. — The library and museum of the Quebec Literary and His- 
torical Society (in Morrin College) are courteously opened to the visits of strangers. 
The Library of Parliament is also accessible, and is finely arranged. The Listifiif 
Canadian is at ?S Fabrique St. : and the Y. M. C. Association Hall is a splendid 
building, erected in 1879-8''>, on St. John St., just outside the gate. 

Post-Office at the corner of Buade and Du Fort Sts. According to the new 
rules of the Canadian postal service, stamps are now sold at the post-offices. 

The most attractive shops are on Fabrique and St. John Sts., and in the vicinity 
of the French Cathedral, or Basilica. 

An Elevator runs from Champlain St. (Lower Town) to Dufferin Terrace. 
RaiHvays. — The Grand-Trunk Railway has its terminal stMtion at Point Levi, 
317 M from"^ Portland, 425 M. from Boston, and 586 M. from New York. Passengers 
take the Grand-Trunk ferry-steamer near the Champlain Market. The Canadian 
Pacific Railway runs along the N. shore from Quebec to Montreal and Ottawa, The 
Quebec and Lake St. John Railway runs to Roberval, 190 M. distant The Quebec, 
Montmorenci & Charlevoix Railway runs to St. Anne. Stages run from the sta- 
tion of St. Ambroise to Indi.in Lorette, and from Valcartier Station to Yalcarfier. 
The Intercolonial Railway runs to St. John, N. B., and Halifax, N. S. The Que- 
bec Central Railway runs to Sherbrooke. 

Steamships. — The steamships of the Allan line leave Quebec for Lough Foyle 
and Liverpool and Glasgow every Thursday, during the season of summer-navigation. 
The Dominion Line also sends steamships weekly to Liverpool. The vessels of the 
Quebec S. S. Co. leave every week for Father Point, 176 M. ; Metis, 207 ; Gasp ',, 
443 ; Perc6, 472 ; Summerside, 710 ; Gharlottetown, 784 ; and Pictou, 829. The St. 
Lawrence S N. Co. runs to Bay St. Paul, 55 M. ; Eboulement, 66 ; Murray Bay, 
82; Riviere du Loup, 112; Tadousac, 134; L'Anse St. Jean, 166; Ha! Ha! Bay, 
207 ; Chicoutimi, 2.35. Smaller boats run to Pointe aux Trembles, 21 , Les Ecu- 
reuils, 27 ; Platon and Portneuf, 33 ; Deschambault, 45 ; Grondines, 48 ; and St. 
Anne de la Perade, 58 ; also to St. Lambert, 9 ; and St. Jean, 17 ; also, during the 
pilgrimage-season, to St. Anne de Beaupre. Ferry-boats run to Point Levi several 
times an hour ; and to the Isle of Orleans. 



256 Roide 68. QUEBEC. 

Quebec, "the Gibraltar of America," and the third city in the Do- 
minion of Canada, is situated on a rocky promontory at the confluence of 
the St. Lawrence and St. Charles Rivers, 180 j\I. from Monti'eal, and over 
400 M. from the Gulf of St. Lawrence. It has about 63,000 inhabitants, 
with 6 banks, 6 Masonic lodges, and numerous newspapers in the French 
and the English languages. The chief business of the city is in the hand- 
ling and exportation of lumber, of which $5-7,000,000 worth is sent 
away annually. There are long lines of coves along the St. Lawrence 
shore, above the city, arranged for the reception and protection of the 
vast rafts which come down from the northern forests. A very consid- 
erable export trade in grain and cattle is done, and the varidus supplies of 
the populous counties to the N. and E. are drawn from this point. Ship- 
building was a leading industry, and many vessels of the largest size 
have been launched from the shipyards on the St. Charles ; but the business 
has fallen off very considerably of late. Of late years several important 
manufactories have been established in the Lower Town, and the city is 
expected to derive great benefit from the convergence here of several 
lines of railway, connecting with the transatlantic steamships, and making 
it a depot of immigration and of freighting. The introduction of an abun- 
dant and powerful water supply from Lake St. Charles and the establish- 
ment of a fire-brigade and alarm-telegraph have preserved the city, during 
late years, from a recurrence of the terrible fires with which it was for- 
merly scourged. A second main was laid iu 1883. 

Quebec is built nearly in the form of a triangle, bounded by the two 
rivers and the Plains of Abraham, and is divided into the Upper Town 
and Lower Towai, the former standing on an enwalled and strongly forti- 
fied bluff 350 ft. high, while the latter is built on the contracted strands 
between the cliffs and the rivers. The streets are narrow, crooked, and 
often very steep, and the houses are generally built of cut stone, in a style 
of severe simplicitv. It is the most quaint, picturesque, and mediaeval- 
looking city in America, and is surrounded by beautiful suburbs. 

" Take mountain and plain, sinuons river, and broad, tranquil watei"S, stately 
ship and tiny boat, gentle hill and shady valley, bold headland and rich, fruitful 
fields, frowning battlement and cheerful villa, glittering dome and rural spire, flow- 
ery garden and sombre forest, — gi'bup them all into the choicest picture of ideal 
beauty your fancy can create, arcli it over with a cloudless sky, light it uji with a 
radiant sun, and lest the sheen sliould be too dazzling, hang a veil of lighted haze 
over all, to soften the lines and perfect the repose, — you will then have seen Quebec 
on this September morning." (Eliot Warburton.) 

"Quebec recalls Angoulenie to my mind : in the upper city, stairways, narrow 
streets, ancient houses on the verge of the clilf ; in the lower city, the new fortunes, 
commerce, workmen ; — in both, many shojis and much activity." (M. S^and ) 

" The scenic beauty of Quebec has been tlie theme of general eulogy. The majestic 
appearance of Cape Diamond and the foitifu .'iUdi^, — the cupolas and niinarets, like 
those of an Eastern city, blazing and .-p.-irklinii' in tiio snn, — the loveliness of the 
panorama, — the noble b:isin, like a. shcci of |iui\'st silver, iu which might ride with 
safety a hundred sail of the line, — th(> gr.icotul meandering of the river 8t. Charles, 
— the nunieruus village spires on either side of the St Lawrence, — the fertile fields 
dotted with innumerable cottages, tlie abodes of a rich and moral peasantry, — the 
distant Falls of Montniorcnci, — the park-like scenery of Point Levi, — the beauteous 
Isle of Orleans, — and more distant still, the frowuing Cape Tourmente, and the lofty 



QUEBEC. noute GS. 257 

raupe of purple mountains of the most picturesque forms whicli bound the prospect, 
unite to form a coup iJ'ai/, which, witliout exaggeration, is scarcely to be surpassed 
in any p;irt of the world." (Hawkins.) 

'' 1 rublied my eyes to be sure that 1 was in the nineteenth century, and was not 
entering one of those portals which sometimes adorn the frontispiece of old black- 
lettcr volumes. I thought it would be a good place to read Froissart's Chronicles. 
It was such a reminiscence of the Middle Ages a.s Scott's novels. 

" Too much ha.s not been sjvid about the scenery of Quebec. The fortifications of 
Cape Diamond are omnipresent. You trav(;l lU, 20, 30 M up or dosvn the river's 
b:ink^, you ramble 15 M among the hills on cither side, and then, when you have 
long .-inoe forgotten them, perchance slept on them by the way, at a turn of the 

ro.ul or of your body, there they are still, with their geometry against the sky 

No wonder if .laques Cartier's pilot exclaimed in Norman-French, Que bee! ( ' What 
a peak! ') when he .saw this cape, as some suppose. Evei-y modern traveller invol- 
untarily uses a similar expression The view from Cape Diamond has been 

compared by European tnivellers with the most remarkable views of a similar kind 
in Europe, such as from Edinburgh Castle, Gibraltar, Ciutra, and others, and pre- 
ferred by many. A main peculiarity in this, compared with other views which I 
have beheld, is that it is from the ramparts of a fortified city, and not from a soli- 
tary and majestic river cape alone that this view is obtained I still remembei 

the harbor far beneath me, sparkling like silver in the sun, — the answering head- 
lands of Point Levi on the S. E , — the frowning Cape Tourmente abruptly bounding 
the seasvard view far in the N E. , — the villages of Lorette and Charlesbourg on the 
N., — and farther W. the distant Val Cartier, sparkling with white cottages, hardly 
removed by distance through the clear air, — not to mention a few blue mountains 
along the horizon in that direction. You look out from the ramparts of the citadel 
beyond the frontiers of civihzation. Yonder small group of hills, according to the 
guide-book, forms ' the port.il of the wilds which are trodden only by the feet of the 
Indian hunters as far as Hudson's Bay.' " (Thoreau ) 

" There is no city in America more famous in the annals of history than Quebec, 
and few on the continent of Europe more picturesquely situated. Whilst the sur- 
rounding scenery reminds one of the unrivalled views of the Bosphorus, the airy site 
of the citadel and town calls to mind Innspruck and Edinburgh Quebec may be best 
described by supposing that an ancient Norman fortress of tsvo centuries ago had 
been encased in amber, transported by magic to Canada, and placed on the summit 
of Cape Diamond." 

" Quebec, at least for an American city, is certainly a very peculiar place. A mili- 
tary town, containing about :iO,000 inhabitants ; most compactly and permanently 
built, — stone its sole material ; environed, as to its most important parts, by walls 
and gates, and defended by numerous heavy cannon ; . . . . founded upon a rock, 
and in its highest parts overlooking a great extent of country ; 3 400 miles from 
the ocean, in the midst of a great contiuent,and yet displaying fleets of foreign mer- 
chantmen in its fine, capacious bay, and showing all the bustle of a crowded sea- 
port: its streets narrow, populous, and winding up and down almost mountainous 
declivities ; situated in the latitude of the finest parts of Europe, exhibiting in its 
environs the beauty of a European capital, and yet in winter smarting with the cold 
of Siberia ; governed by a people of different language and habits from the mass of 
the population, opposed in religion, and yet leaving that population without taxes, 
and in the enjoyment of every privilege, civil and religious : such are the prominent 
features which strike a stranger in the f icy of Quebec. A seat of ancient Dominion, 
— now hoary with the lapse of more than two centuries, — formerly the seat of a 
French empire in the we-t, — lost and won by the blood of gallant armies, and of 
illustrious commanders, — throned on a rock, and defended by all the proud defiance 
of war! Who could approach such a city without emotion I Who in Canada has 
not longed to cast his eyes on the water-girt rocks and towers of Quebec." (^Prof. 
SiLLiMA.v ; in 1820.) 

" Few cities offer so many striking contrasts as Quebec. A fortress and a com- 
mercial city together, built upon the summit of a rock like the nest of an eagle, 
while her vessels are everywhere wrinkling the f;ice of the ocean ; an American city 
inhabited by French colonists, governed by England, and garrisoned by Scotch 
regiments ; a city of the Middle Ages by most of its ancient institutions, while it is 
subject to all the combinations of modern constitutional government; a European 
city by its civihzation and its habits of refinement, and still close by the remnants 
of the Indian tribes and the barren mts. of the North ; a city with about the same 

Q 



258 Route 68. QUEBEC. 

latitude as Paris, while successively combining the torrid climate of southern regions 
with the Peverities of an hyperborean winter; a city at the same time Catholic and 
Protestant, where the labors of our (French) missions are still uninterrupted along- 
side of the undertakings of the Bible Society, and where the Jesuits, driven out of 
our own country, find refuge under the gegis of British Puritanism." (X. Marmier-s 
Lettres sur I'Ameriqve, 1860.) 

" Leaving the citadel, we are once more in the European Middle Ages. Gates and 
posterns, cranky steps that lead up to lofty, gabled houses, with sharp French roofs 
of burnished tin, like those of Li^ge ; processions of the Host; ahars decked with 
flowers ; statues of the Virgin ; sabots ; blouses ; and the scarlet of the Briti.^h lines- 
man, — all these are seen in narrow streets and markets that are graced with many 
a Cotentin lace cap, and all within 40 miles of the down-east, Yankee State of Maine. 

It is not far from New England to Old France There has been no d.\ ing out 

of the race among the French Canadians. They number twenty times the thousands 
that they did 100 years ago. The American soil has left their physical type, re- 
ligion, language, and laws absolutely untouched. They herd together in their 
rambling villages, dance to the fiddle after mass on Sundays, — as gayly as once did 
their Norman sires, — and keep up the fiem-de-lys and the memory of Montcalm. 
More French than the French are the Lower Canada hdbitans. The pulse-beat of the 
continent finds no echo here." (Sir Charles Dilke.) 

''Curious old Quebec I of all the cities of the continent of America the most 
quaint! It is a peak thickly populated I a gigantic rock, escarped, echeloned, and 
at the same time smoothed oif to hold firmly on its summit the houses and castles, 
although according to the ordinary laws of n;atter they ought to fall off like a bur- 
den placed on a camel's back without a fastening. Yet the [houses and castles hold 
there as if they were nailed down. At the foot of the rock some feet of land have 
been reclaimed from the river, and that is for the streets of the Lower Town. Que- 
bec is a dried shred of the Middle Ages, liung high up near the North Pole, far from 
the beaten paths of the European tourists, .... a curiosit}- without parallel on 
this side of the ocean. We traversed each street as we would have turned the leaves 
of a book of engravings, containing a new painting on each page The local- 
ity ought to be scrupulously preserved antique. Let modern progress be carried 
elsewhere I When Quebec has taken the pains to go and perch herself away up 
near Hudson's Bay, it would be cruel and unfitting to dare to harass her with new 
ideas, and to speak of doing away with the narrow and tortuous streets that charm 
all travellers, in order to seek conformity with the fantastic ideas of comfort in 
vogue in the 19th century." (He^ry Ward Beecher.) 

" On I'a dit, Quebec est un promontoire, c'est avant tout une forteresse remarqua- 
ble. La citadelle s'eleve au-dessus de la ville et mire dans les eaux du fleuve ses 
crtoeaux beauts. Le voyageur s'etonne, apres avoir admire les bords verdoyants et 
fleuris du Saint-Laurent, les forets aux puissautes ramures pleines de mysteres et 
d'ombre, les riantes vallees pleines de bruits et de rayons, de rencontrer tout a coup 
cette vilie qui semble venir d'Europe et qui serait moins etrange sur les bords du 
Rhin aux dramatiques legendes. Mais Qu, bee n'est pas une ville ou I'l tranger vienne 
se distraire et chercher d'oubli un theatre A grands luxes, a grands spectacles .... 
C'est peut-etre la seule ville du monde oii les gens aient droit de se plaiudre et oil 
ils ne se plaignent pas. J'ai I'crit que Quebec est une forteresse remarquable; 
elle eleve son front superbe et se cambre avec fierte dans sa robe de pieri-e. Elle a 
conserve un air des temps chevaleresques, elle a soutenu des si ges, elle a re(,'U son 
bapteme du feu. En longeant ces vieux niurs, en admirant cette forteresse t levie 
comme un nid d'aigle sur un roc sourcilleux, ou se croirait dans une ville du moyen 
&ge, au temps des factions et des guerres civiles, une de ces villes accoutumi'es aux 
bruits des armes, aux fanfares et aux hymnes guerriers, mais tout est silencieux dans 
la nuit sereine, et vous n'entendez meme pas le pace cadence d'une sentinelle. 
Dans cette ville et aux alentours, que d't vmements out ete accompli ! Quelle lutte 
pleiue de poesie lieroique ! Que de vicissitudes I et quel courage ! En quelque lieu 
que vous alliez, a la basse-ville, sur le chemiu Saint-Louis ou Sainte-Foye, sur les 
rives de la riviere Saint-Charles, tout respire un parfum historique, tout parle a vos 
yeux, tout a une voix qui expriuie quelque chose de grand et de triste, et les pieiTCfl 
menies sont autour de vous comnie les fantomes qui reJSechissent le passe." 



QUEBEC. Route OS. 259 

The Dufferin Terrace is on the riverward edge of the Upper Town, and 
begins on the buttresses and phitform formerly occupied by the Chateau 
of St. Louis, which was built by Champlain in 1620, and extends for a 
quarter of a mile to the base of the citadel, making it the longest prome- 
nade of the sort in the world. It was opened on June 10, 1879, by the 
Marquis of Lome and the Princess Louise, in the presence of 10,000 people. 
The old Chateau was a massive stone structure, 200 ft. long, used for a 
fortress, prison, and governor's palace, and it stood until 183-i, when it was 
ruined by lire. The terrace is 182 ft. above the river, and commands a 
* view of surpassing beauty. Immediately below are the sinuous streets 
of the Lower Town, with its wharves projecting into the stream. On one 
side are the loft}' fortitied bluffs of Point Levi, and on the other the St. 
Charles River winds away down its peaceful valley. The white houses of 
Beauport stretch off to the vicinity of the Montmorenci Falls, while be- 
yond are seen the farms of L'Ange Gardien, extending towards the 
heights of St. Fereol. Vessels of all classes and sizes are anchored in the 
broad basin and the river, and the rich and verdant Isle of Orleans is in 
mid-stream below. Beyond, and over all, are the bold peaks of the Lau- 
rentian range, with Cape Tourmente towering over the river. The Terrace 
is the favorite promenade of the citizens, and presents an attractive scene 
in the late afternoon or on pleasant Sundays. 

*' There is not in the world a nobler outlook than that from the Terrace at Que- 
bec. You stand upon a rock overhanging city and river, and look down upon the 
guard-ships' niii^ts. Acre upon acre of timber comes floating down the stream 
above the city, the Canadian boat-son;^s just reaching you upon the heights ; and 
beneath you are fleets of great ships, English, German, French, andDutch, embark- 
ing the timber from the floating docks. The Stars and Stripes are nowhere to be 
seen."' (Sir Charles Dilke.) 

" On a summer evening, when the Terrace is covered with loungers, and when 
Point Levi is sprinkled with lights and the Lower Town has illuminated its narrow 
streets and its long dormer-windows, while the lively murmur of business is ascend- 
ing and the eye can discern the great shadows of the ships beating into port, the 
scene is one of marvellous animation. It is then, above all, that one is struck with 
the resemblance between Quebec and the European cities ; it might be called a city 
of France or Italy transplanted ; the physiognomy is the same, and daylight is 
needed to mark the alteration of features produced by the passage to America." 

"At a later era, when, under the protection of the French kings, the Provinces 
had acquired the rudiments of military strength and power, the Castle of St. Louis 
was remarkable as having been the site whence the French governors exercised an 
immense sovereignty, extending from the Gulf of St. Lawrence, along the shores of 
that noble river, its magnificent lakes, and down the course of the Mississippi to its 
outlet below New Orleans. The banner which first streamed from the battlements 
of Quebec was displaced from a chain of forts which protected the settlements 
throughout this vast extent of country, keeping the English Colonies in constant 
alarm, and securing the fidelity of the Indian nations. During this period the coun- 
cil chamber of the castle was the scene of many a midnight vigil, many a long delib- 
eration and deep-laid project, to free the continent from the intru.'^ion of the ancient 
rival of France, and assert throughout the supremacy of the Gallic lily. At another 
period, subsequent to the surrender of Quebec to the British arms, and until the 
recognition of the independence of the United States, the extent of empire of which 
the Castle of Quebec was the principal seat comprehended the whole American con- 
tinent north of Mexico. " (H.\WKINS.) 



260 Route 68. QUEBEC. 

The Anglican Cathedral occupies the site of the ancient Recollet Con- 
vent and gardens, and is a plain and massive building, 135 ft. long, with 
a spire 152 ft, high. It was built by the British government in 1803-4, 
and i-eceived its superb communion-service, altar-cloths, and books as a 
present from King George III. There is a chime of 8 bells in the tower, 
which makes pleasant music on Sundays; and the windows are of rich 
stained glass. The interior is plain and the roof is supported on Corinthian 
pillars and pilasters, while over the chancel hang the old Crimean colors 
of the 69th Regiment of the British armj'. Under the altar lie the remains 
of Charles Lennox, Duke of Richmond, Lennox, and Aubigny, and Gov- 
ernor-General of Canada, who died of hydrophobia in 1819. There are 
numerous mural monuments in the cathedral, and in the chancel are the 
memorials to the early Anglican Bishops of Quebec, Jacob Mountain and 
Charles James Stewart. The former consists of a bust of the Bishop, 
alongside of which is a statue of Religion, both in relief, in white marble, 
on a background of black marble. 

Dr. Mountain was in the presence of King George, when he expressed a 
doubt as to whom he should appoint as bishop of the new See of Quebec. 
Said the doctor, " If your Majesty had faith, there would be no difficult}'." 
"How soV" said the king. Mountain answered, "If you had faith, you 
would say to this Mountain, Be thou removed into that See, and it would 
be done." It was. 

Between the cathedral and the Dufferin Terrace is the prettv little Pl'ice 
d'' Armcs, where, on the site of the eld court-house (burnt in 1871), a hand- 
some new court-house was built, in 1885. Beyond the court-house (on St. 
Louis St.) is the Masonic Rail, opposite which are the old-time structures 
of the St. Louis Hotel and the ancient building, known as 

Kent House, from the fact that Prince Edward, the Duke of Kent (father 
of Queen Victoria), dwelt here during his long sojourn at Quebec. Oppo- 
site the St. Louis Hotel is a quaint little building (now used as a barber- 
shop), in which Montcalm held his last council of war. St. Louis St. runs 
out through the ramparts, traversins; a quiet and solidly built quarter, and 
is prolonged beyond the walls as the Grand All^e, passing the magnifi- 
cent new Parliament Buildings. 

The * Market Square is near the centre of the Upper Town . The Jesuits' 
College has been torn down, and its place remains drearily empty. 

Markets are not now held on the Square, but outside St. John's Gate. 

" A few steps had brought them to the market-square in front of the cathedral, 
where a little belated ti-affic still lingered in the few old peasant-women hovering 
over baskets of fuch fruits and vegetables as had long been out of season in the 
iStates, and the hbusekeepers and servants cheapening these wares. A sentry moved 
mechanically up and down before -the high portal of the .Jesuit Barracks, over the 
arch of which were still the letters I. H. S. carved long ago on the keystone ; and 
the ancient edifice'itstilf, wi'th its yellow stucco front and its grated windows, had 
every right to he a monastery turned barracks in Prance or Italy. A row of quaint 
stone houses — inns and shops — formed the upper side of the square, while tho 
modern buildings of the Bue Fabi'ique on the lower side might serve very well for 



QUEBEC. Route GS. 261 

that sliow of iinprov(Mi>ont which deepens the sentiuuMi' of the nei;;Ch'Jorinp; antiquity 
and decay in Latin towns. As for the catliedral, wnich faced the convent from 
across the siiuare, it was as cold and torpid a hit of Renaissance as could be found 
in Rome itself A red-coated soldier or two passed throuj^h the srjuare ; three or 
four neat little French jioliceuien lounged about in blue uniforms and flaring 
havelocks; some walnut-faced, blue-eyed old citizens and pea.sauts sat ui)on the 
thresholds of the row of old houses and gazed dreamily through the smoke of their 
pipes at the slight stir and glitter of shopping about the fine stores of the Rue 
Fabrique. An air of serene disoccupation pervailed the place, with which the 
drivers of the long rows of calashes and carriages in front of the cathedral did not 
iliscord. Whenever a stray American wandered into the square, there was a wild 

1 light of these drivers towards him, and his person was lost to sight amidst their 
p.intomime. They did not try to underbid each other, and they were perfectly good- 
luimored. As soon as he had made his choice, tlie rejected multitude returned to 
their places on the curbstone, pursuing the successful aspirant with inscrutable 
jokes as he drove olT, while the horses went on munching the contents of their 
leatliern head-bags, and tossing them into the air to shake down the lurking grains 
of corn."' (HowELLs's A Chance Acquaintance.) 

The magnificent new Parliament and Departmental Buildings are on 

the Grande Allee, on high ground outside the St. Louis Gate, and were begun 
in 1878. The halls of the local Parliament were begun in 1882. Tlie 
buildings are of gray stone, very large and massive, and present an impos- 
ing appearance when seen from the ramparts, or from the distant valley 
villages. It was at one time intended to have built the new Parliament 
House on the site of the Jesuits' College, a vast quadrangular pile, 22-1 by 

2 K) ft. in area, founded in 1G46, and demoli.slied in 1878, after a long period 
of desertion and dilapidation. 

The Jesuits' College was founded in 1637, one j'ear before Harvard College, 
and performed a noble work in its day. It was suspended in 1759 by Gen. 
Murray, who quartered his troops here, and in 1809 the property reverted to the 
crown, on the death of the la.st of the Jesuit Fathers. The buildings were used 
as barracks until the British armies evacuated Canada " From this seat of piety 
and learning issued those dauntle.ss missionaries, who made the Gospel known 
over a space of 600 leagues, and preached the Christian faith from the St. Law- 
rence to the Mississippi. In this pious work many suffered death in the most 
cruel form ; all underwent danger and privation for a series of years, with a con- 
stancy and patience that must always command the wonder of the historian and 
the admiration of posterity." 

The * Basilica of Quebec is on the E. side of the Market Square, and 
was known as the Cathedral of Notre Dame until 1874, when it was 
elevated by Pope Pius IX. to the rank of a basilica. It was founded in 
1666 by Bishop Laval, and was destroyed by the bombardment from 
Wolfe's batteries in 1759. The present building dates from the era of the 
Conquest, and its exterior is quaint, irregular, and homely. From its 
towers the Angelus bells sound at 6 o'clock in the morning and 6 in the 
evening. The interior is heavy, but not unpleasing, and accommodates 
4,000 persons. The High Altar is well adorned, and there are several 
chapels in the aisles. The most notable pictures in the Basilica are, "**the 
Crucifixion, byFfm Dyck (" the Christ of the Cathedral"; the finest paint- 
ing in Canada), on the first pillar 1. of the altar; the Ecstasy of St. Paul, 
Carlo Maratti ; the Annunciation, Eestout ; the Baptism of Christ, Halle ; 
the Pentecost, Vignon ; Miracles of St. Anne, Plamondon ; Angels waiting 



262 Route 68. QUEBEC. 

on Christ, Restout (in the choir); the Nativity, copy from Annibale Ca- 
racci; Holy Fainily, Blanchard. 

The Basilica occupies the site of the ancient church of Notre Dame de la Recou- 
vrance, built in 1633 by Champlain , in memory of the recovery of Canada by France. 
Within its walls are buried Bishops Laval and Plessis ; Champlain, the heroic ex- 
plorer, founder and first Governor of Quebec ; and the Count de Frontenac, the 
fiery and chivalric Governor of Canada from 1688 to 1698. Alter his death his 
heart was enclosed in a leaden casket and sent to his widow, in France, but the 
proud countess refused to receive it, saying that she would not have a dead heart, 
which, while living, had not been hers. The noble lady (" the marvellously beautiful 
Anne de la Grange-Trianon, SMrnamed The Divine") was the friend of Madame de 
Montpensier, and was alienated from Frontenac on account of his love-affair with 
thfi brilliant Versaill-iise. >T.iiliine de Monrespan 

Most of the valuable paintings in the Basilica, and elsewhere in Canada, were 
bought in France at the epoch of the Revolution of 1793, when the churches and 
convents had been pillaged of their treasures of art. Many of them were purchased 
from their captors, and sent to the secure shores of New France. 

Back of the Basilica, on Port Dauphin St., is the extensive palate of 
the Arclibishop, surrounded by quiet gardens. To the E. is the Grand 
Battery ; and also the site of the old Parliament House. 

The * Seminary of Quebec adjoins the Cathedral on the N., and covers 
several acres with its piles of quaint and rambling buildings and quiet 
and sequestered gardens. It is divided into Le Grand Seminaire and Le 
Petit Seminaire, the former being devoted to Roman-Catholic theology and 
the education of priests. The Minor Seminary is for the study of litera- 
ture and science (for boys), and the course extends over nine years. 
Boarders pay $150 a year, exclusive of vi^ashing, music, and draw- 
ing. The students may be recognized in the streets by their peculiar 
uniform. The quadrangle, with its old and irregular buildings; the spot- 
less neatness of the grounds ; the massive walls and picturesquely outlined 
groupings, will claim the interest of the visitor. 

" No such building could be seen anywhere save in Quebec, or in some ancient 
provincial town in Normandy. You ask for one of the gentlemen (priests), and you 
are introduced to his modest apartment, where you find him in his soutane, with all 
the polish, learning, and bonhommie of the nineteenth century." Visitors are con- 
ducted over the building in a courteous manner. 

file ancient Seminary Chapel, with its precious paintings by Philippe 
de Champagne, Vanloo, and other masters, wa^ burned in 1888. 

The Seminary of Quebec was founded in 1663 by M de Laval, who endowed it with 
all his great wealth. The first buildings were erected in 1666, and the present Senn- 
nary is composed of edifices constructed at different dates since that time. In 1865 
a large part of the quadrangle was burnt, but it has since been restored. In 1704 
there were 54 teacher.s and students ; in 1810 there were 110 ; and there are now over 
400 (exclusive of the University students). " When we awake its departed shades, 
they rise upon us from their graves, in strange romantic guise. Men steeped in 
antique learning, pale with the close breath of the cloister, here spent the noon and 
evening of their lives, ruled savage hordes with a mild paternal sway, and .<^tood 
serene before the direst shapes of death. Men of courtly natures, heirs to the polish 
of a far-reaching ancesti\v, here with their dauntless hai'dihood put to shame the 
boldest sons of toil." 

The new Seminary Chapel has several interesting and valuable old paintings, 
including an Ascension, by Philippe de Champagne. 



QUEBEC. RoiUe OS. 203 

The * Laval University is between tlie Seniiiuirv "[Aniens and theram- 
l)arts, aiul may be reached from St. Famille St The main Imilding is 280 ft. 
long and 5 stories high, is built of cut stone, and cost $225,000. The roof is a 
flat sanded platform, securely enrailed, where the students promenade and 
enjoy the grand * view of the city, the river, and the Laurentian ]\Its. Vis- 
itors are admitted to the collections of the University on application to the 
janitor. The reception-rooms contain the great picture of the Madonna of 
Quebec, a portraitof Pius IX., by Pa.'?9Mrt/o?w, and other paintings. The large 
hall of convocation has seats for 2,000, with galleries for ladies. The chem- 
ical laboratory is a fire-proof chamber, modelled after that of King's Col- 
lege, London; and the dissecting-room is spacious and well arranged. The 
♦mineral museum was prepared by the late Abb6 Haiiy, an eminent 
scientist, and contains specimens of the stones, ores, and minerals of 
Canada, with a rare and valuable collection of crj'stals. It fills a long 
series of apartments, from which the visitor is ushered into the ethnologi- 
cal and zoological cabinets. Here are a great number of Indian remains, 
implements, and weapons, and other Huron antiquities; with prepared 
specimens of Canadian animals and fish. The Library contains 90,000 
volumes (about half of which are French), arranged in two spacious halls, 
from whose windows delightful views are obtained. The * Picture-Gal- 
lery has lately been opened to the public, and is the richest in Canada. 
The works are mostly copies from the old masters, though there are sev- 
eral undoubted originals. 

The visitor should also see the brilliant 
collection of Canadian birds; and the costly philosophical and medical 
apparatus, imported from Paris. The extensive dormitories occupy sub- 
stantial stone buildings near the University, over the gardens. 

The Seminary was founded in 1663 by Francois de Montmorenci Laval, first Bishop 
of Quebec, and has been the central power of the Catholic Church in this Province 
for over two centuries. The Laval University was founded in 1852, and has had the 
privileges of a Catholic University accorded to it by Pope Pius IX. The processes 
of study are modelled on those of the University of Louvain. The department of 
arts has 14 professors, the law has 6, divinity has 5, and medicine has 8. There are 
also 24 professors in the Minor Seminary. 

" Quebec is a mnrvellous old town, and its filory is enhanced by the glamor of the 
Roman purple. Nothing could well be more fitting than bestowing a cardinal upon 
this mother of churches, - the mnr/na partus of nearly fifty modern dioceses. 
Wlien Lival de Montmorency stood on the altar steps of his ba.<ilica, he could wave 
his crozier over half a continent, from the strand of Miquelou to the spring < f 
Itasca; from the gulf of the St. Lawrence to where the rosy sea-shells murmur in 
the Bay of Pascagoula." 

The old Parliament Building stood near Laval University. It was 
burned in 1883. 



264 Route 68. QUEBEC. 



Mountain-Hill St. descends by the place of the Prescott Gate, to the 
Lower Town, winding down the slope of the cliff. On the r., about ^ of 
the way down, are the * Champlain Steps, or Cote la Montagne, a steep, 
crowded, and picturesque stairway leading down to Notre Dame des 
Victoires (see page 271). Near the foot of the steps is a grating, over the 
place where the remains of Champlain were recently found, in the vault 
of an ancient chapel. The Cote la Montagne has reminded one author 
of Naples and Trieste, another of Venice and Trieste, and another of 
Malta. 

The Post-Office is a handsome stone building at the corner of Buade and 
Du Fort Sts. In its front wall is a figure of a dog, carved in the stone and 
gilded, under which is the iuscriptiun : — 

" Je suis un chien qui rouge I'os ; (" I am a dog gnawing a bone. 

En le rongeant je prend mon repos. While I gnaw 1 take my repose. 

Un temps viendra qui n'est pas venu The time will come, though not yet, 

Que je mordrais qui m'aura mordu.'' "When I will bite him who now Bites me.") 

This lampoon was aimed at the Intendant Bigot by M. Philibert, who had 
suffered wrong from him, but soon after the carved stone had been put 
into the front of Philibert's house, that gentleman was assassinated by an 
officer of the garrison. The murderer exchanged into the East Indian 
army, but was pursued by Philibert's brother, and Avas killed, at Pondi- 
cherry, after a severe conflict. 

The Post-Office occupies the site of the Grand Place of the early French town, on 
•which encamped the Huron tribe, sheltered by the fort from the attacks of the piti- 
less Iroquois. Here afterwards lived the beautiful Miss Prentice, with whom Nelson 
fell in love, so that he had to be forced on board of his ship to get him away. " How 
many changes would have ensued on the map of Europe ! how many new horizons in 
history, if Nelson had deserted the naval service of his country in 1782 ! "Without 
doubt. Napoleon would have given law to the entire world. His supremacy on the 
sea would have consolidated his rule over the European continent : and that because 
an amorous young naval officer was seized by a passion for a bewitching Canadian 
girl I " Near this place the Duke of Clarence, then a subaltern of the fleet, but 
afterwards King William I"\^ of England, followed a young lady home in an un- 
seemly manner, and was caught by her father and very soundly horsewhipped. 

The *TJrsuIine Convent is entered from Garden St., and is a spacious 
pile of buildings, commenced in 1686, and covering 7 acres with its gardens 
and offices. There are 40 nuns, who are devoted to teaching girls, and 
also to working in embroidery, painting, and fancy articles. The parlors 
and chapel may be visited by perniission of the chaplain (whose office is 
adjacent); and in the latter are some valuable paintings: * Christ at the 
Pharisee's House, by Philippe de Champagne ; Saints Nonus and Pelagius, 
Prudhomme ; the Saviour Preaching, P. de Champagne ; the Miraculous 
Draught of Fish, Le Dieu de Jouvenet ; Captives at Algiers, Restout ; St. 



QUEBEC. Route OS. 2G5 

Peter, Spaniih School ; and several otliers. In the shrines are relics of St. 
Clement ^lartyr, and other saints from the Roman catacombs. Within a 
grave made by a shell which biu-st in th s chapel during the bombardment 
of 1739 is bmied "the High and flight}' Lord, Louis Joseph, Marquis of 
Montcalm," and over his remains is the inscription, "Honneur a Mont- 
calm ! Le destin en lui d^robant de la victoire Ta rdcomi)euse par une 
mort glorieuse." Montcalm's skull is carefully preserved under glass. 



The first Superior of the Ursuline Convent was Mother Marie de I'Tncamation, 
who was "revered as the St. Teresa of her time."' She mastered the Huron and 
Algonquin languages, and her letters to France form one of the most valuable rec- 
ords of the earl^- days of Canada. The convent was founded in 1639, when the first 
abbess landed in Quebec amid the salutes of the castle-batteries : and the special 
work of the nuns was that of educating the Indian girls. The convent was burnt 
down in 1G50, and again in 1383, when the Ursulines were sheltered by the Ilopital- 
ieres. The Archbishop has recently ordered that the term of profession shall be for 
seven years, instead of for life. 

Morrin College occupies a massive stone building at the corner of 
St. Ann and Stanislas Sts., and is the only non-Episcopal Protestant col- 
lege in the Province. It was founded by Dr. Morrin, and has 5 professors, 
but has had but little success as an educational institution. The build- 
ing was erected by the Government in 1810, for a prison; and occupied 
the site of an ancient fort of Champlain's era. It was used as a prison 
until the new Gaol was built, on the Plains of Abraham, and in the N. 
wing are the "sombre corridors that not long ago resoundeil with the steps 
of the jailers, and the narrow cells that are never enlivened by a ray of 
li.u-ht." 

The * Library of the Quebec Literary and Histoi'ical Society is in the 
N. wing of Morrin College, and contains a rare collection of books re- 
lating to Canadian history and science, in the French and English lan- 
guages. This society is renowned for its valuable researches in the annals 
of the old St. Lawrence Provinces, and has published numerous volumes 
of records and transactions. It mcludes in its membership the leading liter- 
ati of Eastern Canada. There is a small but interesting nuiseum connected 
with the library-hall. There is also a well equipped reading-room, 

St. Andrew's CJiurch, with its school and manse, occupy the triangle at 
the intersection of St. Ann and Stanislas Sts. It is a lows quaint build- 
ing, erected in 1809 on ground granted by Sir James Craig. Previously, 
from the time of the Conquest of Canada, the Scottish Presbyterians had 
worshipped in the Jesuits' College. The Wesleyan Church is a comforta- 
ble modern building, just below Morrin College; beyond w^hich, on 
Dauphin St., is the chapel of the Congregationalists (Roman Catholic). 
At the corner of St. John and Palace Sts. (second story) is a statue of 
Wolfe, which is nearly a century old, and bears such a relation to Quebec 
as does the Mannikin to Brussels. It was once stolen at uight by some 
12 



266 Route 68. QUEBEC. 

roystering naval officers, and carried off to Barbadoes, whence it was re- 
turned many months after, enclosed in a coffin. 

The * Hotel-Dieu Convent and Hospital is the most extensive pile of 
buildings in Quebec, and is situated on Palace St. (r. side) and the Ram- 
part. E. of the long ranges of buildings (in Avhich 650 sick persons can be 
accommodated) are pleasant and retired gardens. The convent-church is 
entered from Charlevoix St., and contains valuable pictures: the Nativity, 
by Stella; the Virgin and Child, Coypel; the Vision of St. Teresa, Mena- 
geot; St. Bruno in Meditation, Le Sueur [csdled '"the Raphael of France"); 
the * Praying Monk, by Zurbaran (undoubted); and fine copies of the 
Twelve Apostles, by Raphael, and the Descent from the Cross, hj Rubtns 
(over the high altar). 

The Hotel Dieu was founded by the Duchesse d' Aguillon (niece of Cardinal Riche- 
lieu) in 1639. In 1654 one of the present buildings was erected, and most of it was 
built during the 17th century, while Talon, Baron des Islets, completed it in 1762. 
There are 30-40 cloistered nuns of the order of the Hopitalieres, and the hospital 
is open freely to the sick and infirm poor of whatever feet, with attendance by the 
best doctors of the city. The singing of the nuns during the Sunday services will 
interest the visitor. 

The most precious relic in the Hotel-Dieu is a silver bust (in life size) of Br^beuf, 
in whose base is preserved the skull of that heroic martyr. Jean de Br^beuf, a Nor- 
man Jesuit of noble blood, arrived at Quebec with Champlain in 1638, and went to 
the Huron country the next year. Here he had frequent celestial visions, and 
labored successfully in the work of converting the nation. He often said: " Snitio 
me tjehementer impelli ad moriendum pro Christo " ; and his wish was gratified when 
his mission-town of St. Ignace was stornicd by the Iroquois (in 1649) He was bound 
to a stake and scorched from head to foot ; the savages cut away his lower lip, and 
thrust a red-hot iron down his throat ; hung around his neck a necklace of red-hot 
collars (■' but the indomitable priest stood like a rock") ; poured boiling water over 
his head and face, in demoniac mockery of baptism ; cut strips of flesh from his 
limbs, and ate them before his eyes ; scalped him ; cut open his breast, and drank 
his living blood ; filled his ejes with live coals ; and after four hours of torture, a 
chief tore out his heart and devoured it. " Thus died Jean de Brebeuf, the fovmder 
of the Huron mission, its truest hero, and its greatest m.artyr He came of a noble 
race, — the same, it is said, from which sprang the English Earls of Arundel ; but 
never had the mailed barons of his line confronted a fate so appalling with so pro- 
digious a constancj-. To the last he refused to flinch, and ' his death was the aston- 
ishment of his murderers.' " The delic'ite and slender Lalem.ant, Brebeuf "s col- 
league on the mission, was tortured for seventeen hours, with the most refined and 
exquisite varieties of torment. " It was said that, at times, he seemed beside him- 
self; then, rallying, with hands uplifted, he ofl'ered his sufferings to Heaven as a 
sacrifice." The bones of Lalemant are preserved at the Hotel Dieu. 

Around the Ramparts. 
* The Citadel is an immense and powerful fortification, covering 40 
acres of ground, and is situated on the summit of Cape Diamond (so called 
from the glittering crystals found in tlie vicinity), which is said to be " tlie 
coldest place in the British Empire." Since the CA'acuation of Canada by 
the Imperial troops, the Citadel has been garrisoned by Canadian militia- 
men, and visitors are usually permitted to pass around the walls under 
the escort of a soklier. The **vieAV from the most nortlierly bastion 
(which contains an immense Armstrong gun) surpasses that from the 
Diifferiu Terrace, and is cue of the most magnificent in the world. The 



QUEBEC. Route 68. 267 

St. Charles is seen winding through a beautiful undulating jtlain, and the 
spires of Beauport, Charlesbourg, and Lorette, with the white cottages 
around them, form pleasing features in the landscape. On the S. of the 
parade are the otficers' quarters and the bomb-proof hospital, while bar- 
racks and magazines are seen in advance. The armoiy contains a great 
number of military curiosities, but is not always accessible to visitors. 
The Citadel is separated from the town by a broad glacis, which is broken 
by three ravelins; and the wall on that side contains a line of casemated 
barracks. The entrance to the Citadel is by way of a winding road which 
leads in from St. Louis St. through the slope of the glacis, and enters first 
the outer ditch of the ravelin, beyond the strong Chain Gate. Thence it 
passes, always under the mouths of cannon, into the main ditch, which is 
faced with masonry, and at this point opens into a rarrow parade, over- 
looked by the retiring angles of the bastion. The curious iron-work of the 
Chain Gate being passed, the visitor finds himself in an open triangular 
parade, under the loopholes of the Dalhousie Bastion. 

" Such structures carry us back to the Middle Ages, the siege of Jerusalem, and 
St. Jean d"Acre, and the daj-s of the Buccaniers. In the armory of the Citadel they 
showed me a clumsy implement, long since useless, which they called a Lombard 
gun. I thought that their whole Citadel was such a Lombard gun, fit object for the 

museums of the curious Silliman states that ' the cold is so intense in the 

winter nights, particularly on Cape Diamond, that the sentinels cannot stand it 
more than one hour, and are relieved at the expiration of that time; and even, 
as it is said, at much shorter intervals, in case of the most extreme cold.' I shall 
never again wake up in a colder night than usual, but I shall think how mpidly the 
sentinels are relieving one another on the walls of Quebec, their quicksilver being 
all frozen, as if apprehensive that some hostile Wolfe may even then be scaling the 
Heights of Abraham, or some persevering Arnold about to issue from the wilderness ; 
some Malay or Japanese, perchance, coming round by the N. \Y . coast, have chosen 
that moment to assault the Citadel. Why I should ;is soon expect to see the senti- 
nels still relieving one another on the walls of Nineveh, which have so long been 
buried to the world. What a troublesome thing a wall is ! I thought it was to de- 
fend me, and not I it. Of course, if they had no walls they would not need to have 
any sentinels.'* (Thoreau.) 

The Citadel was formerly connected with the Artillerv Barracks, at the farther 
end of the city, by a bomb-proof covered way 1,837 yards" long. These fortifications 
are 345 feet above the river, and considerably higher than the Upper Town. The 
rock on which they are founded is of dark slate, in which are hmpid quartz-crystals. 

The picturesque walls of Quebec are of no defensive value since the modern im- 
provements in gunnery : and even the Citadel could not prevent dangerous ap- 
proaches or a bombardment of the city. Skilful military engineers have therefore 
laid out a more extensive system of modern fortification'-,'inciuding lines of powerful 
detached forts on the heights of Point Levi, and at Sillery. The former were begun 
in 1867, and are nearly completed ; but the Sillerv forts are not vet commenced. 

The spirit of utilitarianism, which has levelled the walls of Frankfort and Vienna 
and is menacing Boston Common, has been attacking the ramparts of Quebec for 
many years. The St. Louis and Prescott Gates were removed in 1871, and the Pal- 
ace and Hope Gates in 1873. The better sentiment of the scholars and pul)lic men 
of the Province, headed by Lord Dufferin, stayed this tide of so-called improvement, 
and started the work of restoration. A magnificent new portal of ma,«onrv, with 
towers and mediseval appurtenances, was erected on the site of the St. Louis Gate 
in 1878-79 : and at the same time another very imposing entrance, called Kent 
Gate, was opened between this and St. John's Gate. Other projects are maturing, 
to still, further enrich and beautify the ancient fortress city, and to erect a statelj 
palace for the Governors-General, on the Citadel. 



268 Route 68, QUEBEC. 

The Esplanade extends to the r. from the St. Louis Gate (within), and 
the tourist is recommended to Avalk along the ramparts to St. John's Gate, 
crossing the new Kent Gate, viewing the deep fosse, the massive outworks, 
and the antiquated ordnance at the embrasui-es. On the r. are the Con- 
gregational (Catholic) Church, and the National School; and Montcalm's 
Ward and the new Parliament Building are on the 1. * St. John's Gate 
is a strong and graceful structure which was erected in 1869. While rally- 
ing his soldiers outside of this gate, the Marquis de Montcalm was mortally 
wounded; and Col. Brown (of Massachusetts) attacked this point while 
Arnold and Montgomery were fighting in the Lower Town. To the L is 
St. John's Ward (see page 269) ; and the road to St. Foy passes below. The 
ramparts must be left at this point, and D'Auteuil and St. Helene Sts. 
follow their course by the Artillery Barracks, amid fine grounds at the 
S. W, angle of the fortifications. The French garrison erected the most 
important of these buildings (600 ft. long) in 1750, and the British Govern- 
ment has since made large additions. The barracks are now occupied by 
(^V)vernment works. On and near St. Helene St. are several churches, — 
St. Patrick's (Irish Catholic), Trinity (Anglican), the Baptist, and the Con- 
gregational. 

After crossing the wide and unsightly gap made by the removal of the 
Palace Gate, the rambler may follow the course of the walls from the 
Hotel Dieu (see page 266) to the Parliament Building. They occupy the 
crest of the cliff, and command fine views over the two rivers and the Isle 
of Orleans and Laurentian Mts. The walls are thin and low, but are fur- 
nished with lines of loopholes and with bastions for artillerj^ The walk 
takes an easterly course beyond the angle of the convent-buildings, and 
passes between the battlements and the high walls of the Hotel-Dieu gar- 
dens for nearly 500 ft. 

The streets which intersect the Rampart beyond this point are of a quaint and 
pleasing character. One of them is thus described by Howells : " The thresholds 
and doorsteps were covered with the neatest and brightest oilcloth ; the wooden 
sidewalk was very clean, like the steep, roughly paved street itself; and at the foot 
of the hill down which it sloped was a breadth of the city wall, pierced for musketry, 
and, past the corner of one of the houses, the half-length of cannon showing. It 
had all the charm of those ancient streets, dear to Old- World travel, in which the 
past and present, decay and repair, peace and war, have made friends in an effect 
that not only wins the eye, but, however illogically, touches the heart; and over 
the top of the wall it had a stretch of landscape as I know not what European 
street can command : the St. Lawrence, blue and wide ; a bit of the white village of 
Beauport on its bank ; then a vast breadth of pale green, upward-sloping meadows ; 
then the purple heights; and the hazy heaven above them " 

Since Prescott Gate fell, there was " nothing left so picturesque and characteristic 
as Hope Gate, and I doubt if anywhere in Europe thei-e is a more mcdiaval-looking 
bit of military architecture. The heavy stone gateway is black with age, and the 
gate, which has probably never been closed in our century, is of mas^sive frame, set 
thick with mighty bolts and spikes. The wall here sweeps :ilong the brow of the 
crag on which the city is built, and a steep street drops down, by stone- parapeted 
curves and angles from the Upper to the Lower Town, where, in 1775, nothing but 
a narrow lane bordered the St. Lawrence. A considei-abl(> breadth of land has since 
been won from the river, and several streets and many piers now stretch between 
this allev and the water ; but the old Sault au Matelot still crouches and creeps 



QUEBEC. Route 6S. 2G9 

along under tho shelter of the city wall and the overhauling rock, which is thickly 
bearded with weeds and gniss, and trickles with abundant moisture. It must bo 
an ice-pit in winter, and I should think it the last spot on the continent for the 
eunmier to find ; but when the summer has at last found it, the old Sault an 
Matelot puts on a vagabond air of Southern leisure and abandon, not to be matched 
anywhere out of It;ify. Looking from that jutting rock near Hope Gate, behind 
which the defeated Americans took refuge from the fire of their enemies, the vistJi 
is ahnost unique for a certain scenic squalor and gypsy luxury of color : »ig-roofed 
barns and stables, weak-backed and sunken-chested workshops of every sort lounge 
along in tumble-down succession, and lean up against ihe clifT in every imaginable 
posture ofworthlessness and decrepitude : light wooden galleries cross to them from 
the second stories of the houses whicli look back on the alley ; and over these galleries 
flutters, from a labyrinth of clothes-lines, a variety of bright-colored garments of 
all ages, sexes, and conditions ; while the footway underneath abounds in gossiping 
women, smoking men, idle poultry, cats, children, and large indolent Newfoundland 
dogs." (HowELLS's A Chance Acquaintance.) 

Passing the ends of these quiet streets, and crossing the gap caused by 
the removal of Hope Gate, the Rampart pi-omenade turns to the S., by the 
immense block of the Laval University (see page 263) and its concealed 
gardens. The course is now to the S., and soon reaches the * Grand Bat- 
tery, where 22 32-pounders command the river, and from whose terrace a 
pleasing view may be obtained. 

A short detour leads out again to the Dufferin Terrace (see 
page 259) Des Cai-rieres St. runs S. from the Place d'Armes to the Gov- 
erno)'''s Garden, a pleasant summer-evening resort, with a monument 65 ft. 
high, erected in 1827 to the memory of Wolfe and Montcalm, and bear- 
ing the e'.egant an I classic inscription: 

Mortem. Virtus. Communem. 

Famam. Histokia. 

monumentum. posteritas. 

Dedit. 

In the lower garden is a battery which commands the harbor. Des 
Carrieres St. leads to the inner glacis of the Citadel, and by turning to the 
r. on St. Denis St., its northern outworks and approaches may be .seen. 
Passing a cluster of barracks on the r., the Chalmers Church is reached. 
This is a symmetrical Gothic building occupied by the Presbyterians, and 
its services have ail the peculiarities of the old Scottish church. Beyond 
this point is St. Louis St., whence the circuit of the walls was begun. 



The Montcalm and St. John Wards extend W. on the plateau, from the 
city-walls to the line of the Martello Towers. The population is mostly 
French, and the quarter is entered by passing down St. John St. and 
through St. John's Gate Glacis St. leads to the r., just beyond the walls, 
to the Convent of the Gray Sisters, which has a loftj' and elegant chapel, 
riiere are about 70 nuns, wiiose lives are devoted to teaching :ind to 
visiting the sick. This building shelter.^ 136 orphans and infirm persons, 



270 Route 68. QUEBEC. 

and the sisters teach 700 female children. It overlooks the St. Charles 
valley, commanding fine views. Just sibove the nunnery is the Convent 
of the Christian Brothers, facing on the glacis of the rampart. A short 
distance out St. John St. is St. Matthew's Church (Episcopal); beyond 
which is the stately Church of St. John, Claire-Fontaine St. leads S. 
from this church to the Grande Allee, passing just inside the line of the 
Martello Towers; and Sutherland St., leading into the Lower Town, is a 
little way beyond. The St. Foy toll-gate is less than ^M. from St. John's 
Church. The Kent Gate, between St. John's Gate and the St. Louis Gate, 
is a very interesting piece of feudal architecture, witli turrets, arrow-slits, 
etc. It was built by Queen Victoria, as a memcnal of her father, tlie Duke 
of Kent. 

" Above St. John's Gate, at the end of the street of that name, devoted entirely to 
business, there is at sunset one of the most beautiful views imaginable. The river 
St. Charles, gambolling, as it were, in the rays of the departing luminary, the light 
still lingering on the spires of Lorette and Charlesbourg, until it fades away beyond 
the lofty mountains of Bonhomme and Tonnonthuan, presents an evening scene of 
gorgeous and surpassing splendor." (Hawkins.) 

" A sunset seen from the heights above the wide valley of the St Charles, bathing 
in tender light the long undulating lines of remote hills, and transilguring with glory 
the great chain of the Laurentides, is a sight of beauty to remain in the mind for- 
ever." (Marshall.) 

The Montcalm Ward may also be reached by passing out St. Louis St., 
through the intricate and formidable lines of ravelins and redoubts near 
the site of the St. Louis Gate. 

The Convent of the Good 
Shepherd is in this ward, and has, in its church, a fine copy of Murillo's 
" Conception," by Plamondon. There are 74 nuns here, 90 penitents, and 
500 girl-students. The dark and heavy mediaeval structure on the Grand 
Allee was built for the Canada Military Asylum, to takecareof the widows 
and orphans of British soldiers who died on the Canadian stations. Near 
the coi-ner of De Salaberry St is St BridgeVs Asylum, connected with St. 
Patrick's Church. The Ladies' Protestant Home is nearly opposite, and 
is a handsome building of white br ck, where 70 old men and young girls 
are kept from want by the bounty of the ladies of Quebec. 

The Martello Towers are four in number, and were built outside the 
extra-mural wards in order to protect them and to occupy the line of 
heights. They were erected in 1807-12, at an expense of $80,000, and 
are arranged for the reception of 7 guns each. They are circular in form, 
and have walls 13 ft. thick toward the country, while on the other side they 
are 7 ft. thick. The Jail is about .} M. in advance of the towers, and 

is a massive stone building, with walls pierced for musketry. Near this 
point (turning to the 1. from the Grand All^e beyond the toll-gate), and on 
the edge of the Plains of Abraham (extending to the S.), is a monument 
consisting of a tall column, decked with trophies, and rising from a square 
base, on which is the inscription; 



QUEBEC. . Route 68. 271 

HKHE DIED 
WOLFE 

victokious. 
Sept. 13. 

1759. 

"The horror of the nicrht, the precipice scaled by Wolfe, the empire he with a 
hanilfiil of men ndled to Entrlaiul, and the glorious catastrophe of contentedly ter- 

niinatinji life where his finie began Ancient story may be ransacked, and 

ostentatious philosophy thrown into the account, before an episode can be found to 
rank with Wolfe's." (Wiluam Pitt.) 

The Lower Town. 

The most picturesque approach from the Upper to the Lower Town is 
by the Champlain Steps (see page 264). This route leads to the busiest 
and most crowded part of the old river wards, and to the lo!ig lines of steam- 
boat wharves. Notre Dame dss Victoires is in the market square in the 
Lower Town, and is a plain old structure of stone, built on the site of 
Champlain's residence. It was erected in 1690, and was called Notre Dame 
chs Victoires to commemorate the deliverance of the city from tiie English 
attacks of 1690 and 1711, in honor of which an animal religious feast was 
instituted. A prophecy was made by a nun that the church would be de- 
stroyed by the conquering British; and in 1759 it was burned during the 
bombardment from Wolfe's batteries. S. of Notre Dame is the spacious 
Champlnin Market, near an open square on whose water-front the river- 
steamers land. The narrow Champlain St. may be followed to the S., 
under Cape Diamond and by the point where Montgomery fell, to the great 
timber-coves above. 

St. Peter St. runs N. between the cliffs and the river, and is the seat of 
the chief trade of the city, containing numerous; banks, public offices, and 
wholesale houses. The buildings are of the prevalent gray stone, and are 
massive and generally plain. The parallel lane at the foot of the cliff is 
the scene of the final discomfiture of the American assault in 1775. It is 
named Sault nu Matelot, to commemorate the leap of a dog from the cliff 
al)Ove, near the Grand Battery. Leadenhall St. leads off on the r. to the 
sreat piers of Poin*-e a Carey and to the imposing classic building of the 
* dastom-HouGe, which is at the confluence of the St. Lawrence and St, 
Cliaiies Rivers. St Paul St. runs W. from near the end of St. Peter St., 
along the narrow strip between the St. Charles and the northern cliffs, and 
passes the roads ascending to the Hope and Palace Gates. 

The Queen's Fuel-Yard (1. side) is beyond the Palace Market, and occupies the site 
of an immen-e range of buildings erected by M. Begon, one of the later Royal In- 
tendants of New France Here also lived Bigot in all the feudal splendor of the old 
French noblesse, on the revenues which he extorted from the oppressed Province. 
In 1775 the palace was captured by Arnold's Virginia riflemen, who so greatly an- 
noyed the garrison that tne buildings were se^ ou tire and consuu.ed by shells from 
t je batteries of the Upper Town. 



272 Route 68. QUEBEC. 

St. Paul St. is prolonged by St. Joseph St., the main thoroughfare of this 
quarter, and the boundary between the Jaques Cartier and St. Roch Wards. 
The latter is occupied chiefly by manufactories (on the 

shoi-es of the St. Charles): and the narrow and plank-paved streets of 
Jaques Cartier, toward the northern walls, are filled with quaint little 
houses and interesting genre views about the homes of the French-Canadian 
artisans. St. Roch's Church is a very spacious building, with broad in- 
terior galleries, and contains several religious paintings. The Convent of 
Notre Dame is opposite St. Roch's, and has 70 nuns (black costume), who 
teach 725 childrea. 

The * Marine Hospital is a large and imposing modern building, in 
Ionic ai-chitecture, situated in a park of six acres. It is not now in use. 
The General Hospital and the monastery of Notre Dame 
des Anges form an extensive pile of buildings, on St. Ours St., near the 
St. Charles. They were founded by St. Vallier, second bishop of Quebec 
(in 1693), for invalids and incurables. He spent 100,000 crowns in this 
work, erecting the finest building in Canada (at that time). It is now 
conducted by a superior and 45 nuns of St. Augustine. The convent- 
church of Notre Dame des Anges has 14 paintings by Legare, with an 
Assumption (over the high altar) dating from 1671. 

Pointe mix Lievres, or Hare Point, is beyond the General Hospital, on the mead- 
ows of the St. Charles. It is supposed to be the place where the pious Franciscan 
monks founded the first mission in Canada. Jacques Cartier's winter-quarters in 
1536 were here, and on leaving this point he carried off the Indian king, Donnacona, 
who was afterwards baptized with great pomp in the magnificent cathedral of 
Rouen. On this ground, also, the army of Montcalm tried to rally after the disas- 
trous battle on the Plains of Abraham 

The suburb of the Banlieue lies beyond St. Ours St., iuid -'s occupied by 
the homes of the lower classes, with the heights toward St. Foy rising on 
the S. St. Sauveur's Church is the only fine building in this quarter. 

In May, 1535, .Taoques Cartier with his patrician officers and hardy sailors attended 
high mass and received the bishop's blessing in the Cathedral of 8t. Malo, and then 
departed across the unknown western seas. The largest of his vessels was of only 120 
tons' burden, yet the fleet crossed the ocean safely, and ascended tlie broad St. Law- 
rence. Having passed the dark i?aguenay cliff's and the vine-laden sliorcs of the Isle 
of Orleans, he entered a broad basin where " a mighty promontory, merged and 
bare, thrust its scarped front into the i-aging current. Here, clothcil in then-ajesty 
of solitude, breathing the stern poeti-y of the wilderness, rose the clitfs now rich 
with heroic memoi'ies, where the fiery Count Frontenac cast defian( e at his foes, 
where Wolfe, Montcalm, and Montgomery fell. As yet all was a nanelc.'js barbar- 
ism, and a cluster of wigwams held the site of the rock-built city nt Quebec. Its 
name was Stadacone, and it owned the sway of the royal Donnacona. " 

It is held as an old tradition that when Cartier's Norman sailors first saw the 
promontory of Cape Diamond, they shouted " Quel hec ! '- (" \Miat a beak I '") which 
by a natural elision has been changed to Quebec. Others claim that they named the 
place in lovingmemoi-y of Caudebec, on the Seine, to which its natural features bear 
a magnified resemblance. But the move lil«'ly oriiiin of tlic name is IVom the Indian 
word kpbec, signifying a strait, and :iiiiiiii'(l to flic cotiiii.'ir.-trivc narrowing of the river 
above the Basin. It is, however, lield in support of the Norman oriuiii of the name 
that the seal of William de la Pole, Earl of Sullnlk in tlir lath century, bears the 
title of Lord of Quebec. This noble had large domains in France, and was the vic- 
tor at Crevant and Compeigne, and the conqueror of .ioan of Arc, but was impeached 



QUEBEC. Route OS. 273 

and put to death (as narrated by Shakespeire, King Ilcnrj' VT , Part IT., Act IV., 
Scene 1) for hisiug the Eughsh provinces in France after 34 arduous canipaij:;ns. 

U'hen Cartier went to Montreal his men built a fort and prepared wiuter-cjuarters 
near the St Charles River. Soon after his return an intense cold set in, and nearly 
every man in the fleet was stricken down with the scurvy, of which many died in 
great suffering. In the springtime, Carrier planted the cross and tieur-de-lis on 
the site of Quebec, and returned to France, carrying King Donnacona and several 
of his chiefs as prisoners. These Indi.ms were soon afterwiirds received into the 
Catholic Church, witli much pomp and ceremony, and died within a year, in 
France. In 1541 Cartier returned with 5 ve.ssels and erected forts at Cap Rouge, 
but the Indiins were suspicious, and the colony was soon abandoned. Soon after- 
wards Roberval, the Viceroy of New France, founded another colony on the same 
site, but after a long and miserable winter it also was broken i?p. 

In the year ItjJS the city of Quebec was foundeil by the noble Champlain,i who 
erected a" fort here, and laid the foundations of Canada. A party of Franciscan 
mouks arrive. I in 1615, and the Jesuits came in 1G44. In 1628 Sir David Kirke 
vainly attacked the place with a small English tieet, but in 1629 he was more suc- 
cessful, and, alter a long blockade, nwule himself master of Quebec. It was restored 
to Fi-ance in 1632 ; and in 1635 Governor Champlain died, and was buried in the 
Lower Town. Cliamplain's successor was Charles de Moutmagny, a brave and de- 
vout Knight of Malta, on whom the Iroquois bestowed the name of Onontio 
(" Great Mountain ■■). The work of founding new settlements and of proselyting 
the Hurons and combating the Iroquois was continued for the next century from 
the rock of Quebec. 

After the king had erected his military colonies along the St. Lawrence, he found 
that another element was necessary in order to make them permanent and progres- 
sive. Therefore, between 1655 and 1673 he sent to Quebec 1,000 girls, most of whom 
were of the French peasantry ; though the Intendant, mindful of the tastes of his 
officers, demanded and received a consignment of young ladies (" demoiselles bien 
ckoisles"). These cargoes included a wide variety, from I'arisiau vagrants to Nor- 
man ladies, and were maliciously styled by one of the chief nuns, '' mixed good'^ " 
{une rnarchandise mtlee). The government provided them with dowries ; bachelors 
were excluded by law from trading, fishing, and hunting, and were distinguished by 
" marks of infamy "; and the French Crown gave bounties for children (each inhab- 
itant who had 10 children being entitled to a pension of from 400 to 800 livres). 
About the year 1664 the city indulged in extraordinary festivities on the occasion 
of the an-ival of the bones of St. Fiavien and St. Felicite, which tlie Pope had pre- 
sented to the cathedral of Quebec. These honored relics were borne in solemn pro- 
cession through the streets, amid the sounds of martial music and the roaring of 
saluting batteries, and were escorted Ijy the Max-quis de Tracy, the Intendant Talon, 
and the valiant Courcelles, behind whom marched the royal guards and the famous 
Savoyard regiment of Carignan-Salieres, veterans of the Turkish campaigns. The 
diocese of Quebec was founded in 1674, and endo'.ved with the revenues of tnc ancient 
abbeys of Maubec and Benevent. In the same ship with Bishop Laval came Father 
Hennepin, who explored the Mississippi from the Falls of St. Anthony to the Gulf 
of Mexico, and the fearless explorer La Salle. 

In 1672 the Count de Frontenac was sent here as Governor, and in 1690 he bravely 
repulsed an attack by Sir \Vm. Phipps's fleet (from Boston ), inflicting sevei-e damage 
by a cannonade from the fort. Besides many men, the as.sailants lost their admiral's 
standard and several ships. In 1711 Sir Hovenden Walker sailed from Boston 
against Quebec, but he lost in one day eight vessels and 884 men by shi;)wrcck on 
the terrible i-eefs of the Egg Islands. Strong fortifications were built soon after ; and 
in 1759 Gen. Wolfe came up the river with 8,000 British soldiers. The Marquis de 
Montcalm was then Governor, and he moved the French army into fortified lines on 
Be.iuport Plains, where he defeated the British in a sanguinary action. On the 
night of Sept. 12, Wolfe's army drifted up sti'eam on the rising tide, and succeeded 
in scaling the steep cliffs beyond the city. They were fired upon by the French 
outposts ; but before Montcalm could bring his forces across the St. Charles the Brit- 

^ Champlain was born of a good family in the province of Saintonge, in 1570. He became 
a naval officer, and was afterward attached to the person of King Henri IV, In UKW he ex- 
plored the St. Lawrence River up to the St. Louis Rapids, and alterward iuntil his death in 
1635) he explored the country from Xantucket to the head-waters of the Ottawa. He was a 
brave, merciful, and zealous chief, and held that " the salvation of one soul is of moie im- 
portance than the foundins of a new empire. ' He established strong missions among the 
Hurons, fought the Iroquois, and founded Quebec. 

12* R ■ 



274 Route G8. QUEBEC. 

ish lines were formed upon the Plains of Abraham ; and in the short hut desperate 
battle which ensued both the generals were mortally wounded. The English lost 
664 men, and the French lost 1,500. The French army, which was largely composed 
of provincial levies (with the regin>ents of La Guienne, Royal Roussilon, Beam, La 
Sarre,and Languedoc), gave way, and retreated across the St. Charles, and a few 
-days later the city surrendered. 

In April, 1760, the Chevalier de Levis (of that Levis family —Dukes of Ventadour 
— which claimed to possess records of their lineal descent from the patriarch l<evi) 
led the reorganized French army to St. Foy, near Quebec. Gen. Murray, hoping to 
surprise Levis, advanced (with 3,000 men) from his fine position on the Plains of 
Abraham ; but the French were vigilant, and Murray was defeated and hurled back 
within the city gates, having lost 1,000 men and 20 cannon. Levis now laid close 
siege to the city, and battered the walls (and especially St. John's Gate) from three 
heavy field-works. Quebec answered M'ith an almost incessant cannonade from 182 
guns, until Commodore Swanton came up the river with a fleet from England. The 
British supremacy in Canada was soon afterwards assured by the Treaty of Paris, 
and Voltaire congratulated Louis XV. on being rid of" 1,500 leagues of frozen coun- 
try." The memorable words of Gov. Shirley before the Massachusetts Legislature 
(June 28, 1746), " Canada est delendn,'^ were at last verified, but the campaigns had 
cost the British Government Sf 400,000,000, and resulted in the loss of the richest of 
England's colonies. For the attempted taxation of the Americ;tns, which resulted 
in the War of Independence, was planned in order to cover the deficit caused in the 
British Treasury by the Canadian campaigns. 

In the winter of 1775-6 the Americans besieged the city, then commanded by Gen. 
Guy Carleton (afterwards made Lord Dorchester). The provisions of the besiegers 
began to fail, their regiments were being depleted by sickness, and their light guns 
made but little impression on the massive citj' walls; so an assault was ordered and 
conducted before dawn on Dec. 31, 1775. In the midst of a heavy snow-storm Arnold 
advanced through the Lower Town from his quarters near the St. Charles River, and 
led his 800 New-Englanders and Virginians over two or three barricades. The Mon- 
treal Bank and several other massive stone houses were filled with British regulars, 
who guarded the approaches with such a deadly fire that Arnold's men were forced 
to take refuge in the adjoining houses, while Arnold himself was badly wounded and 
carried to the rear. Meanwhile Montgomery was leading his New-Yorkers and Con- 
tinentals N. along Champlain St. by the river-side. The intention was for the two 
attacking columns, after driving the enemy from the Lower Town, to unite before 
the Prescott Gate and carry it by storm. A strong barricade was stretched across 
Champlain St. from the cliff to the river ; but when its guards saw the great masses 
of the attacking column advancing through the tv.'ilight, they fled. In all proba- 
bility Montgomery would have crossed the barricade, delivered Arnold's men by at- 
tacking the enemy in the rear, and then, with 1,500 men flushed with victory, would 
have escaladed the Prescott Gate and won Quebec and Canada, — but that one of 
the fleeing Canadians, impelled by a strange caprice, turned quickly back, and fired 
the cannon which stood loaded on the barricade. Montgomery and many of his 
oflacers and men were stricken down by the shot, and fhe column broke up in 
panic, and fled. The British forces were now concentrated on Arnold's men, wlio 
were hemmed in by a sortie from the Palace Gate, and 426 officers and men were 
made prisonex's. A painted board has been hung high up on the cliff over the 
place in Champlain St. where Montgomery fell. Montgomery was an officer in Wolfe's 
army when Quebec was taken from the Fi'ench 15 years before, and knew the 
ground. His mistake was in heading the forlorn hope. Quebec was the capital of 
Canada from 1760 to 1791, and after that it served as a semi-cai'ital, until the foxmd- 
ing of Ottawa City. In 1845, 2,900 houses were burnt, and the iil;iee was nearly 
destroyed, but soon revived with the aid of the great lumber- traui', whith is still its 
specialty. 

In September, 1874, Quebec was filled with prelates, prieists, and enthusiastic 
people, and the second centennial of the foundation of tl;e diocese was celebrated 
with great jjomp. Nine triumphal arches, in Latin. Byzantine. Romanesque, Classic, 
and Gothic architecture, wei-e erected over the .stncis (if tlio I'ljier Town, and dedi- 
cated to the metropolitan dioceses of North Ann \-\ru : an ii.iiio.-^iiig procession pa.'ised 
under them and into the Cathedral, which was eiulciwed on that day with the name 
and i^rivileges of a basilica ; and at evening the city was illuminated, at a cost of 
8i! 30,000. In the pageant was borne the ancient flag of Ticoudcroga (Le Dra},faii de 
Carillon), which floated over Montcalm's victorious army when he defeated Aber- 



QUEBEC. Route OS. 275 

crombie on Lake Chaniphiiu (July 8, 1758), and is now one of the most esteemed 
trophies of Quebec. 

The annals of the Church contain no grander chapter than that wliich records 
the career of the Canadian Jesuits. Unarmed and aloue, they passed forth from 
Quebec and Montreal, and traversed all the wide region between Labrador and the 
remote West, bravely meeting death in its most liugeriug and horrible forms at 
the hands of the vindictive savages whom they came to bless. Their achievements 
and their fate filled the world with amazement. Even Puritan New England, 
proudly and sternly jealous of her religious liberty, received tlieir envoy with 
honors; Boston, Plymouth, and Salem alike became his gracious hosts; and the 
Apostle Eliot entertained him at his Roxbury parsonage, and urged him to remain. 

" To the Jesuits the atmosphere of Quebec was welluigh celestial. 'In the cli- 
mate of New France,' they write, ' one learns perfectly to seek only one God, to 
have no desire but God, no purpose but for God.' And again: 'To live in New 
France is in truth to live in the bosom of God-' ' If," adds Le Jeune, ' any one of 
those who die in this country goes to perdition, I think he mil be doubly guilty.' " 

" Meanwhile from Old Frame to New came succors and reinforcements to the 
missions of the forest. More Jesuits crossed the sea to urge on the work of conver- 
sion. These were no stem exiles, seeking on barbarous shores an asylum for a per- 
secuted faith. Rank, wealth, power, and royalty itself smiled on their enterprise, 
and bade them God-speed. Yet, withal, a fervor more intense, a self-abnegation 
more complete, a self-devotion more constant and enduring, will scarcely find its 

record on the pages of human history It was her nobler and purer part that 

gave life to the early missions of New France. That gloomy wilderness, those 
hordes of savages, had nothing to tempt the ambitious, the proud, the grasping, or 
the indolent. Obscure toil, solitude, privation, hardship, and death were to be the 
mis.-=ionary"s portion 

" The Jesuits had borne all that the human frame seems capable of bearing. 
They had escaped as by miracle from torture and death. Did their zeal flag or their 
courage fail ? A fervor intense and unquenchable urged them on to more distant 
and more deadly ventures. The beings, so near to mortal sympathies, so human, 
yet so divine, in whom their faith impersonated and dramatized the great principles 
of Christian faith, — virgins, saints, and angels, — hovered over them, and held be- 
fore their raptured sight crowns of glory and garlands of immortal bliss. They 
burned to do, to suffer, and to die ; and now, from out a living martyrdom, they 
turned their heroic gaze towards an horizon dark with perils yet more appalling, and 
saw in hope the day when they should bear the cross into the blood-stained dens of 
the Iroquois. 

In 1647, when the powerful and bloodthirsty Iroquois were sweeping over Can- 
ada in all directions, the Superior of the Jesuits wrote: " Do not imagine that the 
rage of the Iroc^uois, and the loss of many Christians and many catechumens, can 
bring to naught the mystery of the cross of Jesus Christ and the efficacy of his 
blood. We shall die ; we shall be captured, burned, butchered : be it so.' Those 
who die in their beds do not always die the best death. I .«ee none of our company 
cast down. On the contrary, they ask leave to go up to the Hurons, and some of 
them protest that the fires of the Iroquois are one of their motives for the journey." 
"The iron Brebeuf, the gentle Garnier, the all-enduring Jogues, the enthusiastic 
Chaumonot, Lalemant, Le Mercier, Chatelain, Daniel, Pijart, Rogueneau, Du Peron, 
Poncet, Le Moyne, — one and all bore themselves with a tranquil boldness, which 

amazed the Indians and enforced their respect ^Vhen we look for the result 

of tliese missions, we soon become aware that the influence of tlie French and the 
Jesuits extended far beyond the circle of converts. It eventually modified and 
softened the manners of many unconverted tribes. In the wnrs of the next century 
we do not often find tho.«e example-; of diabolic atrocity with which the earlier an- 
nals are crowded. The savage burned his enemies alive, it js true, but he seldom 
ate them ; neither did he torment tliem with the same deliberation and persistency. 
He was a savage still, but not so often a devil."' (P.\rk.man.) 

The traveller who wishes to study more closely this sublime episode in the New- 
World history may consult the brilliant and picturesque historical narratives of Mr. 
Francis Parkman :'" The Jesuits of North America,'* " The Pioneers of France in 
the New World," and " La Salle and the Discovery of the Great West." LeMoine's 
" Quebec, Past and Present," and "' Picturesque Quebec," should also be read. 



276 R<Mte 69. BEAUPORT. 



69. The Environs of Quebec. 

This district is famed for its teauty, and is filled with objects of interest to the 
tourist. The suburban villages can be visited by pedestrian tours ; but in that 
case it is best to cut off communication with the city, and to sweep around on the 
great curve which includes the chief points of attraction. The village inns furnish 
poor accommodations. Such a walking tour should be taken only after a season of 
dry weather, else the roads will be found very muddy. But all the world goes about 
in carriages here, and a caldche and driver can be hired at verv low rates. The 
quickest route to Montmoienci and St. Anne is by the Quebec, Montmorenci and 
Charlevoix Railway . 

''I don't know whether I cared more for Quebec or the beautiful little villages in 
the country all about it. The whole landfcape looks just like a dream of ' Evan- 
geline.' .... But if we are coming to the grand and beautiful, why, there is no 
direction in which you can look about Quebec without seeing it; and it is always 
mixed up with something so familiar and homelike that my heart warms to it." 
(HowELLs's A Chance Acquaintance.) 

** The Falls of Montmorenci are 7 M. from the Dorchester Bridge, 
which is about 1 M, from the Upper-Tovi^n Market Square. The route 
usually taken leads down Palace St. and by the Queen's Fuel- Yard (see 
page 271) and St. Eoch's Church. As the bridge is being crossed, the 
Marine Hospital is seen on the 1., and on the r. are the shipyards of St. 
Roch's Ward and the suburb of St. Charles. The road is broad and firm, 
and leads across a fertile plain, with fine retrospective views. The Beau- 
port Lunatic Asylum is soon reached, near which is the villa of Glenalla. 
The asylum formerly consisted of two large buildings, one for each sex; 
but the female department was destroyed by fire in Januar}^, 1875, and 
several of its inmates were burnt with it. Beauport is 3^-5 M. from 
Quebec, and is a long-drawn-out village of 1,300 inhabitants, with a tall 
and stately church whose twin spires are seen from a great distance. 
There are several flour and barley mills in the parish, and a considerable 
lumber business is done. The seigniory was founded in 1634 by the Sieur 
GifFard, and along its plains was some of the heaviest fighting of the war 
of the Conquest of Canada. 

It is " in that part of Canada which was the first to be settled, and where the face 
of the country and the people have undergone the least change from the beginning, 
where the influence of the States and of Europe is least felt, and the inhabitants see 
little or nothing of the world over the walls of Quebec." The road from Quebec to 
St. Joachim is lined by a continuous succession of the quaint and solid little Cana- 
dian houses of whitewashed stone, placed at an angle with the street in order to 
face the south. The farms are consequently remai-kably narrow (sometimes but a 
few yards wide and ^ M. long), and the country is bristling with fences lu 1064 
the French king forbade that the colonists should make any more clearings, " except 
one next to another" ; but in 1745 he was obliged to order that their farms should 
bo not less than IJ- arpents wide. These narrow domains arose from the social char- 
acter of the people, who were thus brought close together ; from their need of con- 
centration as a defence against tlie Indians; and from the subdivision of estates by 
inheritance. The Latin Catholicism of the villagers is shown by roadside crosses 
rising here and there along the way. 

So late as 1827 Montmoienci County (which is nearly as large as Massachusetts) 
had but 5 shops, SD artisans, 2 schools, 5 churches (all Catholic), and 5 vessels (with 
an aggregate of 59 tons). There has been but little change since. In 1861, out of 
11,136 inhabitants in the county, 10,708 were of French origin, of whom but a few 
score understand the English language. 



MONTMORENCI FALLS. Route 09. 211 

M. Ramcau ("Xa France aiix Colonies''') has proved, after much labor and re- 
search, that the colonists who settled the Cote de Beaui)r(^ and Beauport were from 
the ancient French province of La Perche ; adding that Montreal was coloiiizc(l from 
the province of Anjou, the Isle of Orleans from Poitou, and Quebec, Trois Rivieres, 
and the Richelieu valley from Normandy. 

Beyond the church of Beauport the road continues jxist the niun-ow do- 
mains on either hand, and runs along the side of the Haldlmand estate. The 
ilontmorenci River is crossed, and tlie traveller stops at the Montmorenci 
Restaurant, where lunch may be obtained. At this point admission is 
given to the grounds about the Falls (fee, 25c.); and the tourist should 
visit not only the pavilion near the brink (which commands a charming 
view of Quebec), but also the small platform lower down (and reached b}' 
a long stairway), whence the best front-view is obtained. The descent to 
the basin below is ditficult, and Avill hardly repay the labor of the return, 
A short distance below the Falls is the confluence of the Montmorenci 
with the St. Lawrence, and immense saw-mills are located there, employ- 
ing 7 - 800 men and cutting up 2,500 logs a day. Near the Falls is Haldi- 
mand House, formerly occupied by the Duke of Kent, Queen Victoria's 
father; and on the cliffs by the river are seen the towers of a suspension' 
bridge which fell soon after its erection, hurling three persons mto the 
fatal abyss below. At the foot of these Falls an immense ice-cone (some- 
times 200 ft. high) is formed every winter, and here the favorite sport of 
tobogganning is carried on. The * Natural Steps are 1^ M. above the 
Falls, where the Montmorenci is contracted into a narrow limit and rushes 
down with great velocity, having cut its bed down through successive 
strata and leaving step-like terraces on either side. Fine specimens of 
trilobites have been found in this vicinity. 

The road running on beyond the Montmorenci Restaurant leads to Ange 
Gardien and St. Aune (see Route 70). The views on the way back to 
Quebec are very beautiful. 

The old French kabitans call the Montmorenci Fall, La Vache (" The Cow"), on 
account of the resemblance of its foaming waters to milk. Others attribute this 
name to the noise like the lowing of a cow which is made by the Fall during the 
prevalence of certain winds. Immediately about the basin and along the Mont- 
morenci River, many severe actions took place during Wolfe's siege of Quebec. 
This river was for a time the location of the picket-lines of the British and French 
armies. 

" It is a very simple and noble fall, and leaves nothing to be desired It is a 

splendid introduction to the scenery of Quebec. Instead of an artificial fountain in' 
its square, Quebec has this magnificent natural waterfall to adorn one side of its 
harbor." (Thore.\u.) 

" The effect on the beholder is most delightful. The river, at some distance, 
seems suspended in the air, in a sheet of billowy foam, and, conti-asted, as it is, 
with the black frowning abyss into which it falls, it is an object of the highest in- 
terest. It has been compared to a white ribbon , suspended in the air ; this com- 
parison does justice to the delicacy, but not to the grandeur of the cataract '' (Sil- 
lim.\n.) 

" A safe platform leads along the rocks to a pavilion on a point at the side of the 
fall, and on a level with it. Here the gulf, nearly 300 ft. deep, with its walls of 
chocolate-covered earth, and its patches of emerald herbage, wet with eternal spray, 
opens to the St. Lawrence. Montmoreuci is one of the loveliest waterfalls. In its 



278 Route 69. INDIAN LORETTE. 

general character it bears some resemblance to the Pisse-Vache, in Switzerland, 
which, however, is much smaller. The water is snow-white, tinted, in the heaviest 
portions of the fall, with a soft yellow, like that of raw silk. In fact, broken as it is 
by the irregular edge of the rock, it reminds one of masses of silken, flossy skeins, 
continually overlapping one another as they fall. At the bottom, dashed upon a 
pile of rocks, it shoots far out in star-like radii of spray, which share the regular 
throb or pulsation of the falling masses. The edges of the fall flutter out into 
lace-like points and fringes, which dissolve into gauze as they descend." (^Bayard 
Taylor.) 

" The Falls of Montmorenci present the most majestic spectacle in all this vicin- 
ity, and even in the Province. The river in its course through a country which is 
covered with an almost unbroken forest, has an inconsiderable flow of water except 
when swelled by the melting of the snow or the autumnal rains, until it reaches the 
precipice, where it is 8 - 10 fathoms wide. Its bed, being inclined before arriving at 
this point, gives a great velocity to the ctirrent, which, pushed on to the verge of a 
perpendicular rock, forms a large sheet of water of a whiteness and a fleecy appear- 
ance which resembles snow, in falling in a chasm among the rocks [251] ft. below. 
At the bottom there rises an immense foam in undulating masses, which, when 
the sun lights up their brilliant prismatic colors, produces an inconceivably beauti- 
ful eflect." (BOUCHETTE.) 

" For those who go from Montmorenci to Quebec, the time to be on the road is 
about sunset. The city, climbing up from the great river to the heights, on which 
stands the castle, looks especially beautiful in the warm light that then falls full upon 
It, and the level rays, striking on the quaint old metal-sheathed roofs and on all the 
westward-facing windows, hght up the town with a diamond-like sparkhng of won- 
derful brilliancy." (White's Sketches from America.) 

* ladian Lorette (small inn) is 9 M. from Quebec, by the Little River 
Road. It is an ancient village of the Hiirons ("Catholics and allies of 
France"), and the present inhabitants are a quiet and religious people in 
whom the Indian blood predominates, thougli it is never unmixed. The 
men hunt and fish, the Avomen make bead-work and moccasons, and the 
boj's earn pennies by dexterous archery. There are 60 Huron families 
here, and their quaint little church is worthy of notice. The population 
of the parish is 3,500, and the district is devoted to farming. The 
* Lorette Falls are near the mill, and are very pretty. 

The best description of Lorette is given in Howells's A Chance Acquaintance 
(Chap XIII ), from which the following note is extracted : " The road to Lorette is 
through St. John's Gate, down into the outlying meadows and rye-fields, where, 
crossing and recrossing the swift St. Charles, it finally rises at Lorette above the level 
of the citadel. It is a lonelier road than that to Montmorenci, and the scattering 
cottages upon it have not the well-to-do prettiness, the operatic repair, of stone-built 
Beauport. But they are charming, nevertheless, and the people seem to be remoter 

from modern influences By and by they came to Jeune-Lorette, an almost 

ideally pretty hamlet, bordering the road on either hand with galleried and balconied 
little houses, from which the people bowed to them as they passed, and piously en- 
closing in its midst the village church and churchyard. They soon after reached 
Lorette itself, whicli they might easily have known for an Indian town by its un- 
kempt air, and the irregular attitudes in which the shabby cabins lounged along 

the lanes that wandered through it The cascade, with two or three succcFsive 

leaps above the road, plunges headlong down a steep, crescent-shaped slojie, and 
hides its foamy whiteness in the dark-foliaged ravine below. It is a wonder of 
graceful motion, of iridescent lights and delicious shadows ; a shape of loveliness that 
seems instinct with a conscious life." 

Charles Marshall says, in his " Canadian Dominion " (London, 1871) : " For pic- 
turesque beauty the environs of Quebec vie with those of any city in the world. 
.... It is uot'too much to say that the Lorette cascades M'ould give fame and for- 
tune to any spot in England or France ; yet here, dwarfed by grander waters, they 
remain comparatively unknown." 



CHARLESBOURG. Route CO. 279 

When the Frciuh oauie to Canada the Ilurons were a powerful nation on the 
shores of Lakes Huron and Simcoe, with 32 villages and '20-;iO,()00 inliabitants. 
They received the .lesuit missionaries gladly, and were speedily converted to Chris- 
tianity. Many of them wore their hair in bi-istling ridges, whence certain aston- 
ished Frenchmen, on lirst seeing them, exclaimed " Quelle^ hiiresi " (" What boars' 
heads I •') and the name of Huron supplanted their proper title of Ouenrlalov Wi/an- 
dot. The IroriLiois, or Five Nations (of New York), were their mortal foes, and after 
many years of most barbarous warfare, succeeded in storming the (Christian Huron 
towns of St. ,Io.seph, St. Ignace, and St. Louis. Tiie nation was annihilated : a few 
of its people lied to the far West, and are now known as the Wyandots ; multitudes 
were made slaves among the Iroquois villages ; 10,000 were killed in battle or in the 
subjugated towns ; and the mournful remnant tied to Quebec. Hundreds of them 
were swept away from the Isle of Orleans by a d iriug Iroquois raid ; the survivors 
encamped under the guns of the fort for 10 years, then moved to St. Foy ; and, about 
the year 1673, this feeble fragment of the great Huron nation settled at Ancienne 
Lorette. It was umler the care of the Jesuit Chaumonot, who, while a mere boy, 
had stolen a small sum of money and tied from Fi-ance into Lombardy. In filth and 
poverty he begged his way to Ancona, and thence to Loretto, where, at the Holy 
House, he had an angelic vision. He went to Rome, became a Jesuit, and experi- 
enced another miracle from Loretto ; after which he passed to the Huron mission 
in Canada, where he was delivered from martyrdom by the aid of St. Michael. He 
erected at Ancienne Lorette a chapel in exact fac-simile of the Holy Hou.se at Lo- 
retto ; and here he claimed that many miracles were performed. In 1697 the 
Uurons moved to New Lorette, "a wild spot, covered with the primitive fore?t, 
and seamed by a deep and tortuous ravine, where the St Charles foams, white as a 
snow-drift, over the black ledges, and where the sunshine struggles through matted 
boughs of the pine and the tir, to bask for brief moments on the mossy rocks or 
flash on the hurrying waters. On a plateau beside the torrent, another chapel was 
built to Our Lady, and another Huron town sprang up; and here to this day, the 
tourist finds the remnant of a lost people, harmless weavers of baskets and sewers 
of moccasons, the Huron blood fast bleaching out of them, as, with every generation, 
they mingle and fade away in the French population around. •• (Parkm.vn. ) 

Visitors to Lorette are recommended to return to Quebec by another 
road from that on which they went out, Ancienne Lorette may be reached 
from this point, and so may the lakes of Beauport and St. Charles, 1^ 
days' journey to the N. is Lac Rond, famous for its fine hunting and fishing. 

Charlesbourg (Huot's boarding-house) is 4 M. from Quebec, on a far- 
viewing ridge, and is clustered about a venerable convent and old church 
(with copies of the Last Communion of St. Jerome and the Sistine Ma- 
donna over its altars). It is the chef-lini of the seigniory of Notre Dame 
des Anges, and its products are lumber and oats. To this point (then 
known as Bourg Royal) retired the inhabitants of the Isle of Orleans, in 
1759, when ordered by Montcalm to foil back before the British, They 
were 2,500 in number, and were led by their cur^s. Pleasant roads lead 
from Charlesbourg to Lorette, Lake St, Charles, Lake Beauport, and Cha- 
teau Bigot. 

Lake St. Charles is 11 M. from Quebec, and 6 M. from Lorette. It is 
4 M. long, and its waters are very clear and deep. The red trout of this 
lake ai-e of delicate flavor. There is a remarkable echo from the shores, 

" On arriving at the vicinity of the lake, the spectator is delighted by the beauty 

and picturesque wildness of its banks Trees grow immediately on the borders 

of the water, which is indented by several points advancing into it, and forming lit- 
tle bavs. The lofty hills which suddenly rise towards the N., in shapes singular 
and diversified, are overlooked by mountains which exalt, beyond them, their more 
distant summits." (Heriot.) 



280 Route 69. CHATEAU BIGOT. 

Chateau Bigot is about 7 M. from Quebec, by way of Charlesbourg, 
where the traveller turns to the r. around the church, and rides for 2 M. 
along a ridge which atfords charming views of the city on the r. " It is a 
lovely road out to Chateau Bigot. First you drive through the ancient 
suburbs of the Lower Town, and then you mount the smooth, hard high- 
way, between pretty countrj^-houses, towards the village of Charlesbourg, 
while Quebec shows, to your casual backward glance, like a Avondrous 
painted scene, with the spires and lofty roofs of the Upper Town, and the 
long, irregular wall wandering on the verge of the cliff; then the thronging 
gables and chimneys of St. Eoch, and again many spires and convent 
walls." The ruins of the Chateau are only reached after driving for some 
distance through a narrow wheel-track, half overgrown with foliage. There 
remain the gables and division-wall, in thick masonry, with a deep cellar, 
outside of which are heaps of debris, over which grow alders and lilacs. 
The ruins are in a cleared space over a little brook where trout are 
found ; and over it is the low and forest-covered ridge of La Montagne des 
Ormes. 

This land was in the Fief de la Trinite, which was granted about the year 1640 to 
M Denis, of La Rochelle. The ch.teau was built for his feudal mansion by the 
Royal Intendant Talon, Baron des Islets, and was afterwards occupied by the last 
Royal Intendant, M. Bigot, a dissolute and licentious French satrap, who stole 
$2,000,000 from the treasury. The legend tells that Bigot used this building for a 
hunting-lodge and place of revels, and that once, while pursuing a bear among the 
hills, he got lost, and was guided back to the chateau by a lovely Algonquin maiden 
whom he had met in the forest. She remained in this building for a long time, in 
a luxurious boudoir, and was visited frequently by the Intendant ; but one night 
she was assassinated by some unknown person, — either 31. Bigot's wife, or her own 
mother, avenging the dishonor to her tribe (see " Chateau Bigot,'" by J. M. LeMoine, 
sold at the Quebec bookstores for 10c. ; also Howells's A Chance Acquaintance, 
Chap. XII.). 

Sillery (or >S^. Colovih) is 3 M. from Quebec, by the Grand AU^e and 
the Cap-Rouge Road (see page 270). Alter passing Wolfe's Monument, 
the road leads across the Plains of Abrahcwi, on which were fought the 
sanguinary battles of 1759 and 1760. Sillery is a parish of 3,000 inhab- 
itants, on whose river front are 17 coves, where most of the lumber of 
Quebec is guarded. The Convent of Jems-Maria is a new building of great 
size and imposing architecture; opposite which is the handsome Gothic 
school-house which was given to this parish by Bishop Mountain. In the 
vicinity of Sillery are several fine villas, amid ornnmental grounds: March- 
mant, once the home of Sir John Harvey and Bishop Stewart; Spi^nccr 
Wood, "the most beautiful domain of Canada," with a park of SO acres, 
formerly the home of the Earl of Elgin and other governors, now the resi- 
dence of the Lieutenant-Governor of the Province of Quebec ($10,000 
is voted annually for its maintenance by the Legislature); Woodjitld, 
founded by the Uishop of Samos; Spencer Grange, where lives J. IM. 
LeMoine, the author and antiquarian; Bardfeld, Bishop Mountain's 
former home; Cataracuuy, where the British princes, Albert Edward 



CAP ROUGE. Haute 69, 281 

and Alfred, sojourned; Btnmore, Col. Rhodes's estate; and several 
others. The beautifid cemetery of Mount Hernion, -which was laid out 
by Major Douglas, the planner of Greenwood Cemetery, is in this vicin- 
ity, and is adorned by the graceful chapel of St. Michael. The people 
of Sillery have erected a monument, sustaining a mar- 

ble cross, near the place where Father Masse was buried, in 1(546, in the 
ancient Church of St. Michael (which has long since disappeared). The 
old Jesuit Residence still remains, and is a massive building of stone. 

The Chevalier Noel Brulart de Sillery, Knight of Malta, and formerly a high offi- 
cer at the court of Queen Marie de Medicis. having renounced the world, devoted his 
vast revenues to i-eligiuus purposes. Among his endowments was the foiuidation of 
a Christian Algonquin village just above Quebec, which the Jesuits named Sillery, 
in his honor Here the Abenaquis of Maine learned the elements of Catholicism, 
which was afterwards unfolded to them in their villages on the Kennebec, by Father 
Drnilletes. This worthy old clergyman followed them in their grand hunts about 
Moosehead Lake and the northern forests, " with toil too great to buy the kingdoms 
of this world, but very small as a price for the Kingdom of Heaven." From the 
mission-house at Sillery departed .Jogues, Brebeuf, Lalemant, and many other heroic 
missionaries and martyrs of the primitive Canadian Church. '' It was the scene of 
miracles and martyrdoms, and marvels of many kinds, and the centre of the mis- 
sionary efforts among the Indi:ins. Indeed, few events of the picturesque early his- 
tory of Quebec left it untouched ; and it is worthy to be seen, no less for the wild 
beauty of the spot than for its heroical memories. About a league from the city, 
where the irregular wall of rock on which Quebec is built recedes from the river, 
and a grassy space stretches between the tide and the foot of the woody steep, the 
old mission and the Indian village once stood ; and to this day there yet stands the 
stalwart frame of the first .Jesuit Residence, modernized, of course, and turned to 
secular uses, but firm as of old, and good for a century to come. All around is a 
world of lumber, and rafts of vast extent cover the face of the waters in the ample 
cove, — one of nian\- that indent the shore of the St. Lawrence. A careless village 
straggles along the roadside and the river's margin ; huge lumber-ships are loading 
for Europe in the stream ; a town shines out of the woods on the opposite shore ; 
nothing but a friendly climate is needed to make this one of the most charming 
scenes the heart could imagine." 

Cap Rouge is 9 M. from Quebec, and may be reached by the road which 
passes through Sillery. It is a village of 800 inhabitan's, with a timber- 
trade and a large potteiy; and is connected with Quebec by semi-daily 
stages. The cape forms the W. end of the great plateau of Quebec, which, 
according to the geologists, was formerly an i.sland, around which the St. 
La^^Tence flowed down the St. Charles valley. Beyond Cap Rouge are sev- 
eral very interesting villages: St. Augustin, with its venerable church; 
Deschambault ; and other old French parishes. The mansion of Redchjffe 
is on the cape, and is near the site where Jaques Cartier and Roberval 
passed the winters of 1541 and 1542. On the same point batteries were 
erected by Montcalm and ^lurray. 

In returning from Cap Rouge to the city, it may be well to turn to the 
1. at St. Albans and gain the St. Foy I'oad. The village of St. Foy is 5 
M. from Quebec, and contains many pleasant villas and mansions. To the 
N. IS the broad and smiling valley of the St. Charles, in which may be 
seen Ancienne Lorette (two inns), a lumbering village of 3,000 inhabitants, 
on the Gosford Railway, 44 ^\. from St. F^y. Beyond the Church of St. 



282 Route 69. POINT LEVI. 

Foy is the * monumental column, surmounted by a statue of Bellona (pre- 
sented by Prince Napoleon), which marks the site of the fiercest part of 
the Second Battle of the Plains, in which De Levis defeated Murray (1760). 
The monument was dedicated with great pomp in 1854, and stands over 
the grave of many hundreds who fell in the fight. Passing now the 
handsome Finlay Asylum and several villas, the suburb of St. John is 
entered. 

Point Levi (or Levis) is on the S. shore of the St. Lawrence, opposite 
Quebec, with which it is connected by ferry-boats running every 15 min- 
utes. It has about 10,000 inhabitants, with a large and increasing trade, 
being the terminus of the Quebec branch of the Grand Trunk Railway and 
of the Intercolonial and Quebec Central Railways. On the lofty 
plateau beyond the town are the great forts which have been erected to 
defend Quebec from a second bombardment from this shore. They are 
three in number, 1 M. apart, solidly built of masonry and earth, with large 
casemates and covered ways; and are to be armed with Moncrieff guns of 
the heaviest calibre. It is said that these forts cost f 15,000,000, — a 
palpable exaggeration, — but the}^ have been a very expensive piece of 
work, and are said to be more nearly like Cherbourg, the best of modern 
European fortifications, than any others in America. The batteries with 
which Gen. Wolfe destroyed Quebec, in 1759, were located on this line of 
heights. The Government graving-dock at Levis is 484 ft. long. 

St. Joseph is 2| M. from Point Levi, and transacts a large business in 
wood and timber. South Quebec is above Poiut Levi, and is closely con- 
nected with it. The Liverpool steamers stop here, and there are great 
shipments of lumber from the harbor. The town has 3,000 inhabitants, 
and is growing rapidl}'. 

St. Romuald (or Neio Liverpool) is 5 M. from Quebec, and adjoins S. 

Quebec. It has several factories and mills and a large lumber-trade, and 

is connected with Quebec by semi-daily steamers. The * Church of St. 

Romuald is "the finest on the Lower St. Lawrence," and is celebrated 

for its paintings (executed in 1868- 9 by Larnin'ech of Munich). 

In the choir are the Nativit}', Crucifixion, and Resurrection of Christ ; in the 
Chapel of St. Joseph, the Marriage of St. Joseph, the Flight into Egypt, Nazareth, 
Jesus and the Doctors, the Death of St. Joseph ; in the Chapel of the Virgin, the 
Annunciation, the Visitation, the Adoration of the Magi, and the Presentation in 
the Temple. Above are eight scenes from the life of St. Romuald, from his Conver- 
sion to his Apotheosis. There arc 16 medallions on a gold groyud, representing Sts. 
Peter and Paul, the Four Evangelists, and five doctors of the Greek Church and 
five of the Latin Church. The altars were designed by Schneider of Munich, and 
the statues were carved In wood by Rudmiller of Munich. 

The *Chaudiero Falls are 4.^ M. beyond St. Romuald, and over 9 M- 
from Quebec. They can only be reached by walking a considerable dis- 
tance through the bordering fields. " The deep green foliage of the woods 
overhanging, the roar of the cataract, and the solitude of the place, espe- 
cially as you emerge suddenly from the forest fastnesses on the scene, pro- 



ANGE GARDIEN. Route 70. 283 

diice a strong and vivid impression, not soon to be forgotten." Some 
visitors even prefer this fall to that of Montmorenci. The Ch:uidi5re de- 
scends from Ltike Megantic, near the frontier of Maine, travei'sing the 
Canadian gold-fields. Arnold's hungry and heroic armj' followed the 
course of this river from its source to its mouth in their arduous winter- 
march, in 1775. . The Chaudiere Falls are 3 M. from its confluence with 
the St. Lawrence, and at a point where the stream is compressed into a 
breadth of 400 ft. The depth of the plunge is about 135 ft., and tlie 
waters below are continually in a state of turbulent tossing. At the verge 
of the fall the sti-eam is divided by large rocks, forming three channels, of 
which that on the W. is the largest. The view from the E. shore is the 
best. "The wild diversity of rocks, the foliage of the overhanging woods, 
the rapid motion, the effulgent brightness and deeply solemn sound of the 
cataracts, all combine to present a rich assemblage of objects highly 
attractive, especially when the visitor, emerging from the wood, is in- 
stantaneously surprised by the delightful scene." 

70. Quebec to La Bonne Ste. Anne.— The Cote de Beaupre 

The steamer Montmorenci runs from Quebec to St. Anne twice a week A bet- 
ter route is that b}- laud, through the uiediteval hamlets of the Cote de Beaupr^. 
Three days should be devoted to the trip, — one to go aud one to return, and the 
other to the Falls of St. Anne aud St. Fereol. Gentlemen who understand Fi-ench 
•will find this district very interesting for tue sceue of a pedestrian tour. The inns 
at St. Anne and along tlie road are of a very liumble character, resembling the way- 
side aiiber^'s of Brittany or Normandy; but the people are courteous and well- 
disposed. The Quebec, Montmorenci & Charlevoix Railway runs from Quebec to 
St. Ai ne. 

Distances. — Quebec to the Montmorenci Falls, 7 M. ; Ange Gardien, 10; 
Chateau Richer, 15 ; St. Anne, 22 (St. Joachim, 27 ; St. Fereol, 30). 

The Seiguiory of the Cote de Beaupre contains several parishes of the N. shore, 
and is the most mountainous part of the Province. It was granted in 1636, and is 
at present an appanage of the Seminary of Quebec. No rural district N. of Mexico 
is more quaint and mediaeval than the Beaupre Road, with its narrow and ancient 
farms, its low and massive stone houses, roadside crosses and chapels, and unpro- 
gressive French population. But few districts are more beautiful than this, with 
the broad St. Lawrence on the S., and the garden-like Isle of Orleans ; the towens 
of Quebec on the ^Y., and the sombre ridges of Cape Tourniente and the mountains 
of St. Anne and St. Fereol in advance. " In the inhabitart of the Cote de Beaupre 
you find the Norman peasant of the reign of Louis XIY., with his annals, his songs, 
and his superstitions." (Abb^ Ferl.\nd ) 

"Though all the while we had grand views of the adjacent country far up and 
down the river, and, for the most part, when we turned about, of Quebec, in the 
horizon behind us, — and we never beheld it without new surprise and admiration, 
— yet, throughout oui* walk, the Great River of Canada on our right hand was the 
main feature in the landscape, and this expands so rapidly below the Isle of Orleans, 
and creates such a breadth of level surface above its waters in that direction, that, 
looking down the river as we approached the extremity of that island, the St. Law- 
rence seemed to be opening into the ocean, though we were still about 325 M. from 
what can be called its mouth." (Thoreau.) 

Quebec to the Montmorenci Falls, see page 276. 

Beyond the Falls the road passes on over far-viewing and breezy hills, 
and between the snug estates of the rural farmers with their gi-eat barns 
and exposed cellars (caves). The village of Ange Gardien is guarded at 



284 Route70. CHATEAU EICHER. 

each end by roadside oratories, and lies in a sheltered glen near the river. 
It is clustered about a venerable old church, in which are paintings of the 
Annunciation and the Adoration of the Magi, On its front is a large sun- 
dial. This dreamy old parish has 1,500 inhabitants, and dates from 1678, 
when it was founded by Bishop Laval. In 1759 it was overrun and occu- 
pied by the famous British corps of the Louisbourg Grenadiers. 

After ascending out of the glen of Ange Gardien, the road crosses ele- 
vated bluffs, and on the r. are rich and extensive intervales, cut into nar- 
row strips by walls. They extend to the margin of the river, bej'^ond 
which are the white villages and tin-clad spires of the Isle of Orleans. 

Chateau Richer is a compact and busy village of 2,000 inhabitants, 
over which, on a bold knoll, is the spacious parish-church. The views 
from the platform of this edifice are verj- prett}^ including a large area of 
the parish, the village of St. Pierre on the Isle of Orleans, and the distant 
promontory of Cape Diamond. During the hunting season the Chateau- 
Richer marshes are much frequented by Quebec sportsmen, who shoot 
great numbers of snipe, ducks, and partridges. The upland streams afford 
good trout-fishing. 

On a rocky promontory near Chateau Richer was the site of the ancient Francis- 
can monastery. This massive stone building was erected about the year 1695, and 
was occupied by a community of peaceful monks. U^hen the British army was 
fighting the French near the Falls of Montmoreuci, a detachment was sent here to 
get provisions ; but the French villagers, under the influence of their spiritual 
guides, refused to give aid, and fortified themselves in the monastery. The reduc- 
tion of this impromptu fortress gave Gen. Wolfe considerable trouble, and it was 
only accomplished by sending against it the valiant Louisbourg Grenadiers and a 
section of artillery. The monks surrendered after their walls were well battered by 
cannon shot, and were dispossessed by the troops. Before the bombardment the 
parish priest met the English officers, and told them that they fought for their king, 
and he should be as fearless in defending his people. The villagers made a fierce 
sortie from the convent during the siege, but were repulsed with the loss of 30 killed. 
The site of the monastery is now occupied by the school of the Sisters of Le Bon 
Pasteur, and part of its walls still remain. 

The little roadside auberge called the Hotel Champetro is about 1 M. be- 
yond Chateau Richer. The *Sault a. la Puce is about 2 M. beyond the 
village, and is visited by leaving the road where it crosses the Riviere a la 
Puce, and ascending to the 1. by the path. The stream leaps over a long 
cliff", falling into the shadows of a bowery glen, and has been likened to 
the Cauterskill Falls, 

"This fall of La Puce, the least remarkable of the four which we visited in this 
vicinity, we had never heard of until we came to Canada, and yet, so far as 1 know, 
there is nothing of the kind in New England to be compared with it. Most travel- 
lers in Canada would not hear of it, though they might go so near as to hear it" 
(Thorkau.) There are other pretty cascades farther up the stream, but they are 
difficult of access. 

" Tlie lower fall is 112 ft. in height, and its banks, formed by elevated acclivities, 
wooded to their summits, spread around a solemn gloom, which the whiteness, the 
movements, and the noise of the descending waters combine to make interesting 

and attractive The environs of this river display, in miniature, a succession of 

romantic views. The river, from about one fourth of the height of the mountain, 



LA BONNE ST. ANNE. Route 70. 285 

discloses it^lf to the contemplation of the spectator, and delights his eye with varied 
masses of shining foam, which, suddenly issuing from a deep ravine hollowed out by 
the waters, glide down the almost ptTjieudicular rock, and forn^ a splendid curtain, 
which loses itself amid the foliage of surrounding woods. Such is the scene which 
the fall of La Puce exhibits.-' (Heriot.) 

La Bonne St. Anne (otherwi.^e known as St. Anne tki Nord and St. 
Anne de Beaupr^) i? 7 M. beyond Chateau Richer, and is built on a level 
site just above the intervales. It has about 1,200 inhabitants, and is sup- 
ported by the thousands of pilgrims who frequent its shrine, and by sup- 
plying brick to the Quebec market. Immense numbers of wild fowl 
(especially pigeons) are killed here every year. There are numerous small 
inns in the narrow street, all of which are crowded during the season of 
pilgrimnge. On the E. of the village is the new Church of St. Anne, a 
massive and beautiful structure of gray stone, in classic architecture; 
100,000 pilgrims visited the shrine in 1890. The old building of the 
* Church of St. Anne is on the bank just above, and is probably the most 
highly venerated shrine in Anglo-Saxon America. The relics of St. Anne 
ai-e guarded in a crystal globe, and are exhibited at morning mass, when 
their contemplation is said to have effected many miraculous cures. Over 
the richly adorned high altar is a * picture of St Anne, by the famous 
French artist, Le Brun (presented by Viceroy Tracy); and the side altars 
have paintings (given by Bishop Laval) by the Franciscan monk Lefran- 
qois (who died in 1685). There are numerous rude ex-voto paintings, rep- 
resenting marvellous deliverances of ships in peril, through the aid of St. 
Anne; and along the cornices and in the sacristy are great sheaves of 
crutches, left here by cripples and invalids wdio claimed to have been 
healed by the intercession of the saintf Within the church is the tomb 
of Philippe Ren^ de Portneuf, priest of St. Joachim, who -was slain, with 
several of his people, while defending his parish against the British troops 
(1759). 

" Above all, do not fail to make your pilgrimage to the shrine of St. Anne 

Here, when Aillebout was governor, he began with his own hands the pious work, and 
a habitant of Beaupre, Louis Guiuiout, sorely afflicted with rheumatism, came grin- 
ning with pain to lay three stones in the foundation, in honor probably of St. Anne, 
St. .Joachim, and their daughter, the Virgin. Instantly he was cured. It was but 
the beginning of a long course of miracles continued more than two centuries, and 
continuing still. Their fame spread far and wide. The devotion to St. Anne be- 
came a distinguishing fefiture of Canadian Catholicity, till at the present day at 
least thirteen parishes bear her name Sometimes the whole shore was cov- 
ered with the wigwams of Indian converts who had paddled their bircii canoes from 
the farthest wilds of Canada. The more fervent among them would crawl on their 
knees from the shore to the altar. And, in our own day , every summer a far greater 
concourse of pilgrims, not in p lint and leathers, but in cloth and millinery, and not 
in canoes, but in steamboats, bring their offerings and their vows to the 'Bonne St. 
Anne." '■ (Parkm.\x.) 

According to the traditions of the Roman Church, St. Anne was the mother of 
the Blessed Virgin, and after her boJy had reposed for some years in the cathedral 
at .Jerusalem, it was sent by St. James to St. Lazare, first bishop of Marseilles He, 
in turn, sent it to St. Auspice, bishop of Apr, who placed it in a subterranean 
chapel to guard it from profanation in the approaching heathen inroads. Barbarian 
hordes afterwards swept over Apt and obliterated the church. 700 years later. 



286 lioiite 70. THE FALLS OF ST. ANNE. 

Charlemagne visited the town, and while attending service in the cathedral, several 
marvellous incidents took place, and the forgotten remains of St. Anne were recov- 
ered from the grotto, whence a perpetual light was seen and a delicious fragrance 
emanated. Ever since that day the relics of the saint have been highly venerated 
in France. The colonists who founded Canada brought with them this special de- 
votion, and erected numerous churches in her honor, the chief of which was St. 
Anne de Beaupre, which was founded in 1658 by Gov. d'Aillebout on the estate pre- 
sented by Etienne Lessart. In 1668 tiie cathedral-chapter of Carcasson .<=ent to this 
new shrine a relic of St. Anne (a bone of the hand), together with a lamp and a 
reliquary of silver, and some fine paintings. The legend holds that a little child 
was thrice favored with heavenly visions, on the site of the church ; and that, on 
her third appearance, the Virgin commanded the little one to tell the people that 
they should build a church on that spot. The completion of the building was sig- 
nalized by a remarkable mii-acle. The vessels ascending the St. Lawrence during 
the French domination, always fired off a saluting broadside when passing this 
point, in recognition of their delivery from the perils of the sea. Bishop Laval 
made St. Anne's Day a feast of obligation ; and rich ex-voto gifts were placed in the 
church by the Intendant Talon, the Alarquis de Tracy , and M. d'Iberville, " the Cid of 
New France." The church has a chasuble embroidered in gold by Anne of Aus- 
tria, mother of Louis XIV., and given by her to this shrine ; and a bit of rock 
frorn the grotto where the Virgin Mary was born. For over two centuries mi- 
raculous cures have been wrought here ; and myriads of pilgrims from Canada, 
the United States and France have worshipped at the shrine. An extract from a 
Lower-Canada newspaper describes the curing of a woman who had been bedrid- 
den for 4 years : " She was placed in the Church of St. Anne, on a portable bed, 
at 6 o'clock on Wednesday morning. After low mass she was made to venerate 
the relics of St. Anne. A grand mass was chanted a few minutes afterwards. 
Toward the middle of the divine oiftce the patient moved a little. After the eleva- 
tion she sat up. At the termination of the mass she got up and walked and made 
the circuit of the church." 

The Cote de Beaupre and the site of St. Anne were granted by the Compagnie des 
Cents Associes, in 1636, to the Sieur ChefFault de la Regnardiere, who, however, 
made but Uttle progress in settling this broad domain, and finally sold it to Bishop 
Laval. In 1661, after the fall of Montreal, this district was ravaged by the merciless 
Iroquois, and in 1682 St. Anne was garrisoned by three companies of French regu- 
lars. On the 23d of August, 1759, St. Anne was attacked by 300 Highlanders and 
Light Infantry and a company of Rangers, under command of Capt. Montgomery. 
The place was defended by 200 villagers and Indians, who kept up so hot a fire from 
the shelter of the houses that the ass^ailants were forced to halt and wait until a 
flanking movement had been made by the Rangers. Many of the Canadians were 
slain during their retreat, and all who fell into the hands of the British were put to 
death. The victors then burnt the village, saving only the ancient church, in 
•which they made their quarters. A tradition of the country says that they set fire 
to the church three times, but it was delivered by St. Anne. The following day 
they advanced on Chateau Richer and Ange Gardien, burning every houf^eand barn, 
and cutting down the fruit trees and young grain. They were incessantly annoyed 
by the rifles of the countrymen, and gave no quarter to their prisonere. 

The * Falls of St Anne are visited by passing out from St. Anne on 
the road to St. Joachim, as far as the inn, " like an auberije of Brittan}^" 
at the crossing of the St. Anne River. Thence the way leads up the river- 
bank through dark glens for 3-4 M., and the visitor is conducted by a 
guide. In descending from the plateau to the plain below, the river forms 
seven cascades in a distance of about a league, some of which are of rare 
beauty, and have been preferred even to the Trenton Falls, in New York. 
The lower fall is 130 ft. high. 

■•' A magnificent spectacle burst upon our sight. A rapid stream, breaking its way 
through the dark woods, and from pool to pool among masses of jagged rock, sud- 
denly cleaves for itself a narrow chasm, over which you may spnng it you have an 
iron nerve and then falls, broken into a thousand tantastic forms ot spray along the 



ST. JOACniM. Route 70. 287 

steep face of the rock, into a deep gorge of horrid darkness. I do not know the vol- 
ume of water ; I forgot to gues.'* the hciglit, it may be two hundred foot. Figures 
are ahsurd in the estimate of tlie l>eaiit.v and grandeur of a seone like this. Touly 
know that the wliole impression of the scene was one of the most intense 1 have over 
experienced. The disposition of t!ie mass of broken waters is tlie most graceful con- 
ceivable. The irresistible might of the rush of the fall, the stupendous upright 
masses of black rock that form the chasm ; the heavy fringe of dark woods all 
around; the utter solit;iriuess and gloom of the scene, — all aid to impress the 
imagination. An artist might prefer this spot to Niagai-a." (Marsii.\u..) 

" llci-e the river, 1 -200 ft wide, comes flowing rapidly over a rocky bed out of 
that interesting wilderness which stretches toward Hudson's Bay and Davis's Straits. 
lla Ila Bay, on the Saguenay, was about 100 M. N. of where we stood. Looking on 
tiio map, I find that the first country on the N. which bears a name is that p.irt of 
Rupert's Land called East Main. This river, called after the Holy Anne, flowing 
from such a direction, here tumbles over a precipice, at present by three channels, 
how far down I do not know, but for enough for all our purposes, and to as good a 

distance ;us if twice as far The falling water seemed to jar the very rocks, and 

the noise to be ever increasing. The vista was through a narrow and deep cleft in 
the mountain, all white suds at the bottom." From the bed of the stream below 
" rose a perpeu'litular wall, I will not venture to say how far, but only tha*. it was 
the highest perpeinlicular wall of bare rock that I ever saw. . . . This precipice is 
not sloped, nor is the material soft and crumbling slate as at Montmorenci, but it 
rises perfectly perpendicular, like the side of a mountain fortress, and is cracked into 
vast cubical masses of gray and black rock shining with moisture, as if it were the 

ruin of an ancient waif built by Titans Take it altogether, it was a most wild 

and rugg'd and stupendous chasm, so deep and narrow where a river had worn it- 
self a passage through a mountain of rock, and all around was the comparatively 
untrodden wilderness."' (Thorsau.) 

The base of the St. Anne Mts. is reached by a road running up the val- 
ley for 3-5 M. The chief peak is 2,6S7 ft. high, but the view thence is 
intercepted by trees. The Valley of St. Fereol is 8 M. from St. Anne, and 
is surrounded by beautiful scenery. It contains 1,100 inhabitants, and in 
the vicinity are several lofty and picturesque cascades. St. Tite des Caps 
is a village of 800 inhabitants, 5 M. from the river, between Cape Tour- 
niente and the St. Fereol Mts. The ti'outing in these glens is very good, 
and rare sport is found at Lake St. Joachim, several miles beyond. 

St. JoacMm is 5 M. beyond St. Anne, and is a village of 1,000 inhabi- 
tants, situated near the river, and opposite St. Fran9ois d' Orleans. 2 M. 
beyond this point is the Chateau Bellevue and the farm of the Quebec 
Seminary. The summit of Cape Tourmente is about 3 M. from the 
chateau, and is sometimes ascended for the sake of its superb * view. The 
Seminarians have kept a cross upon this peak for the last half-century; 
and in 1869, 44 Catholic ge.jtlemen, led by the Archbishop of Quebec, 
erected a new one, 25 ft. high, and covered witli tin. 

The Chateau Bellevue is a long and massive building of limestone, situated near 
the foot of Cape Tourmente, and surrounded by noble old forests, in which are 
shrines of St. Joseph and the Virgin. The chateau is furnished with reading and 
billiard rooms, etc. , and is occupied every summer by about 40 priests and students 
from the Seminary of Quebec. The neat Chapel of St. Louis de Gonaiga (the pro- 
tector of youth) is S. of the chlteau. 

Near this point Jaques Cartier anchored in 1535, and was visited by the Indians, 
who brought him presents of melons and maize. In 1623 Champlain came hither 
from Quebec and founded a settlement, whose traces are still seen. This post was 
destroyed by Sir David Kirke's men in 1628, and the settlers were driven away. 

St. Joachim was occupied in August, 1759, by 150 of the 78th Highlanders, who 



288 Route 71. THE ISLE OF ORLEANS. 

had just marched down the Isle of Orleans, through St. Pierre and St. Famille. 
They were engaged in the streets bj' armed villagers, and had a sharp skirmish 
before the Canadians were driven into the forest, after which the Scottish soldiers 
fortified themselves in the priest's house, near the church. 

The site of the seminary was occupied before 1670 by Birhop Laval, who founded 
here a rural seminary in which the youth of the peasantry were instructed. They 
were well grounded in the doctrine and discipline of the Church, and were in- 
structed in the mechanic arts and in various branches of farming. This was the 
first " agricultural college " in America. The broad seigniory of the Cote de Beaupre, 
which lies between St. Joachim and Beauport, was then an appanage of Bishop 
Laval, and was more populous than Quebec itself. " Above the vast meadows of 
the parish of St. Joachim, that here border the St. Lawrence, there rises like an 
island a low flat hill, hedged round with forests, like the tonsured head of a monk. 
It was here that Laval planted his school. Across the meadows, a mile or more dis- 
tant, towers the mountain promontory of Cape Tourmente. You may climb its 
woody steeps, and from the top, waist-deep in blueberry-bushes, survey, from 
Kamouraska to Quebec, the grand Canadian world outstretched below ; or mount 
the neighboring heights of St. Anne, where, athwart the gaunt arms of ancient 
pines, the river lies shinm.eiing in summer haze, the cottages of tlae habitants are 
strung like beads of a rosarj' a'ong the iiicadows of Beaupi-e, the shores of Orleans 
bask in warm light, and far on the horizon the rock of Quebec rests like a faint gray 
cloud ; or traverse the forest till the roar of the torrent guides you to the rocky sol- 
itude where it holds its savage revels. .... Game on the river ; trout in lakes, 
brooks, and pools ; wild fruits and flowers on the meadows and mountains; a thou- 
sand resources of honest and healthful recreation here wait the student emancipated 
from books, but not parted for a moment from the pious influence that hangs about 
the old walls embosomed in the woods of St. Joachim. Around on plains and hills 
stand the dwellings of a peaceful peasantry, as different from the restless population 
of the neighboring States as the denizens of some Norman or Breton village." (Park- 
M.^J^.) 

71. The Isle of Orleans. 

steam ferry-boats leave Quebec three times daily for the Isle of Orleans. The 
trip gives beautiful views of the city and its marine environs, and of the Mont- 
morenci Falls and the St. Anne Mts. 

The island is traversed by two roads. The N. shore road passes from West Point 
to St. Pierre, in 5 M. ; St. Famille, 14 M. ; and St Fran(;ois, 20 M The S. shore 
road runs from West Point to Patrick's Hole, in 6 M. ; St. Laurent, T^ ; St. John, 
13^ ; St. Francois, 21. A transverse road crosses the island from St. Laurent to St. 
Pierre. 

The Isle of Orleans is about 85 M. from Quebec, and contains 70 square 
miles (47,923 acres) of land, being 20 M. long and 54 M. wide. The beau- 
tiful situation of the island, in the broad St. Lawrence, its picturesque 
heights and umbrageous groves, its quaint little hamlets and peaceful and 
primitive people, render Orleans one of the most interesting districts of 
the Lower Province, and justify its title of "the Garden of Canada." 

The island was called Mim'go by the Indians, a large tribe of whom lived here 
and carried on the fisheries, providing also a plnce of retreat for the mainland tribes 
in case of invasion. In 1535 Car tier explored tliese shoics and the hills and forests 
beyond, being warmly welcomed by the resident Indians and feasted with fish, 
honey, and melons. He speaks of the noble forests, and adds: " We found there 
great grape-vines, such as we had not seen before in all the world ; and for tliat we 
named it the Isle of Bacchus." A year later it received the name of the Isle of 
Orleans, in honor of De Valois, Duke of Orleans, the sdu of Fr;un is T of France 
The popular name was L'/s^e r/es Sorritis (W i/.anls' island), either on account of 
the marvellous skill of the natives in foretelliiii;- fiituiv storms and nautical events, 
or else because the superstitious colonists on the mainland wei'e alarmed at the 
nisihtly movements of hghts along the insular shores, and attributed to dt-mons and 
Mizariis the dancing fires which were carried by the Indiaus in visiting their fish- 
nets during the night-tides. 



ST. PIERRE D'ORLEANS. Route 71. 289 

The island was granted in 1(320 to the Sieur deC.len by the Duke de Montmorenci, 
Viceroy of Now France. In lUTo this district was formed into the Earidom of St 
Laurent, and was conferred on M. Herthelot, who assiniicd the title of the Count of 
St. Lawrence. In Itiol the N. part was occupied by WO ("hristiau Uurons, wlio liad 
taken refuge under the walls of Quebec from tho exterminating Iroquois. In ltj56 
the Iroquois demanded that they should come and dwell in their country, and upon 
their refu.sal fell upon the Ilurons with a forceof 3i!0 warriors, devastated the island. 
and killed 72 of the unfortunate Christians. Two tribes were compelled soon after 
to sunvnderand be led as cai>tives into the Iroquois country, while the Tribe of the 
Cord left the island and settled at Lorette. The Isle was overrun by Iroquois in 
1661, and in an action with them at Riviere Maheu, De Lauzon, Seneschal of New 
France, and all his guards wore killed, preferring to die fighting than to surrender 
and be tortured. The great cross of Argentenay was carried away and raised in tri- 
umph at the Iroquois village on Lake Onondaga (New York). 

For nearly a century the Isle enjoyed peace and prosperity, until it had 2,000 in- 
habitants with 5,000 cattle and rich and productive farms. Then came the advance 
of Wolfe's tleet : the inhabitants all fled to Charlosbourg ; the unavailing French 
troops and artillery left these .shores; Wolfe's troops landed at St. Laurent, and 
erected camps, fort.s, and hospitals on the S E. point ; and soon afterward the Brit- 
ish forces systematically ravaged the deserted country, burning nearly every house 
on the Isle, and destroying the orchards. 

The Isle Is now divided into two seigniories, or lordships, whose revenues and 
titles are vested in ancient French families of Quebec. The soil is rich and di- 
yersified, and its pretty vistas justify Charlevo x"s sketch (of 1720): " We took a 
stroll on the Isle of Orleans, whose cultivated fields extend around like a broad am- 
phitheatre, and gracefully end the view on every side. I have found this country 
beautiful, the soil good, and the inhabitants very much at their ease," The agri- 
cultural interest is now declining, owing to the antique and uuprogressive ideas of 
the farmers, who confine themselves to small areas and neglect alternation of crops. 
The farms are celebrated for their excellent potatoes, plums, apples, and for a rare 
and delicious variety of small cheeses. The people are temperate, generous, and 
hospitable, and, by reason of their insular po.«ition, still pre.serve the primitive 
Norman customs of the early .settlers under Champlain and Frontena". The Isle 
and the adjacent shore of Beauprehave been called the nursery of Canada, so many 
have been the emigrants from these swarming hives who have settled in other parts 
of the Provinces. 

St. Pierre is the village nearest to Quebec (9 M.), and is reached by 
ferr^'-steamers, which also run to Beaulieu. It has about 700 inhabitants, 
and is beautifully situated nearly opposite the Montmorenci Falls and 
Ange Gardien. The first chapel was erected here in 1651 by P6re Lale- 
mant, and was used by the Hurons and French in common. In 1769 the 
present church of St. Pierre was erected. On this shore, in 1825, were 
built the colossal timber-ships, the Columbus, 3,700 tons, and the Baron 
Renfrew, 3,000 tons, the largest vessels that the world had seen up to tluit 
time. 

The convent of St. Famille was founded in 1685, by the Sisters of the 
Congregation, and since that time the good nuns have educated the girls 
of the village, having generally about 70 in the institution. The nunnery 
is seen near the church, and was built in 1699, having received additions 
from time to time as the village increased. Its cellar is divided into nar- 
row and contracted cells, whose design has been long forgotten. The 
"woodwork of the convent was burned by Wolfe's foragers in 1759, but was 
restored m 1761, after the Conquest of Canada. The first church of St. 
Famille was built in 1671, and the present church dates from 1745. The 
13 s 



290 Routell. ST. LAURENT D'ORLEANS. 

village is nearly opposite Chateau Richer, and commands fine views of the 
Laurentian Mts. 

The Parish of Si. Franqois includes the domain of the ancient fief of 
Argentenay, and was formed in 1678. In 1683 the first church was built, 
and the present church dates from 1736, and was plundered by Wolfe's 
troops in 1759. The view from the church is very beautiful, and includes 
the St. Lawrence to the horizon, the white villages of the S. coast, and the 
isles of Madame, Grosse, and Reaux. On the N. shore, at the end of the 
island, are the broad meadows of Argentenay, where wild-fowl and other 
game are sought by the sportsmen of Quebec. This district looks across 
the N. Channel iipon the dark and imposing ridges of the St. Anne Mts. and 
the peaks of St. Fer^ol ; and the view from the church is yet more exten- 
sive and beautiful. 

The church of St. John was built in 1785, near the site of a chapel 
dating from 1675, and contemporary with the hamlet. This parish is 
ftimous for the number of skilful river-pilots which it has furnished. It 
has about 1,300 inhabitants, and is the most important parish on the island. 
It is nearly opposite the S. shore village of St. Michel (see page 254). 

St. Laurent is 7 M. from St. Jean, upon the well-settled royal road. 
The parish is entered after ci'ossing the Riviere Maheu, where the Seneschal 
of New France fell in battle. The Church of St. Laurent is a stately 
edifice of cut stone Avith a shining tin roof, and is 113 ft. in length. It re- 
placed churches of 1675 and 1097, and was consecrated in 1861. The 
Route des Pretres runs N. from St. Laurent to St. Pierre, and was so named 
50 years ago, when this church had a piece of St. Paul's arm-bone, which 
was taken away to St. Pierre, and thence was stolen at night b}' the St. 
Laurent people. After long controversy, the Bishop of Quebec ordered 
that each church should restore to the other its own relics, which was 
done along this road by large processions, the relics being exchanged at 
the great black cross midway on the road 1^ M. W. of St. Laurent is 
the celebrated haven called Trou St. Patrice (since 1689), or Patricks 
Hole, where vessels seek shelter in a storm, or outward-bound ships awa t 
orders to sail. The river is 1^ JM. wide here, and there are 10 - 12 fathoms 
,of water in the cove, 2 M. W. of this point is the Caverns de Bontemps, 
a grotto about 20 ft. deep cut in the solid rock near the level of the river. 

Lizotte's Hotel, the chief inn on the Isle of Orleans, is at Ste. Petroiiille. 
Many Quebec families have summer-cottages on the island. The Cliani- 
berland House is at St. Jean c?' Orleans. 



QUEBEC TO THE SAGUENAY. Route 72. 291 



72. Quebec to Cacouna and ihe Saguenay River. — The 
North Shore of the St. Lawrence. 

Charlies of time take place from season to season. The inletultns: traveller should 
U'rite to ike Richelieu if Ontario Nac'gatioji Co., Munt/-ea/,/or lattst tune-tahles. 

In summer, the steamboats leave Quebec four times a week, usually on Tuesday, 
Wednesday, Friday and Saturday, at 7 a. m. They call at Murray Bay, Riviere 
du Loup (Cacouna), Tadousac, Ila Ha Bay, ai d Chicoutimi. 

Distances. — Quebec to St. Laurent", 12 M. ; St. John (Orleans), 17; I.sle Ma- 
dame, 23: Cape Tourmente, 28; St. Francois Xavier, 45; St. Paul's Bay, 55 ; Les 
Ehoulements, G6 ; Murray Bay, 82 ; Riviere Du Loup, 112 (Cacouna, 118) ; Tadousac, 
134 (Chicoutimi, 235) 

The S. shore is described in Route 67 (pages 246-255), and the Isle of 
Orleans in Route 71. As the steamer moves down across the Basin of 
Quebec, beautiful * views are afforded on all sides, including a fascinating 
retrospect of the lofty fortress. 

" Behind us lay the city, with its tinned roofs glittering in the morning sunshine, 
and its citadel-rock towering over the river ; on the southern shore, Point Ijcvi, 
picturesquely climbing the steep bank, embowered in dark trees ; then the wooded 
bluffs ^vith their long levels of farm-land behind them, and the scattered cottages of 
the habitants, while northward the shore rose with a gradual, undulating sweep, 
glittering, far inland, with houses, and gardens, and crowding villages, until it 

reached the dark stormy line of the Laurentian Mts. in the N. E The sky, the 

air, the colors of the landscape, were from Norway ; Quebec and the surrounding 
villages suggested Nomiandy, — except the tin roofs and spires, which were Russian, 
rather; while here and there, though rarely, were the marks of English o'cupancy. 
The age, the order, the apparent stability and immobility of society, as illustrated 
by external things, belonged decidedly to Europe. This "part of America is but 70 
or 80 years older than New England, yet there .'^eems to be adifference of 500 years." 
(B.A.YARD Taylor.) 

After running for 17 M between the populous shores and bright villages 
of Orleans and Bellechasse (see page 254), the steamer turns to the N. V.., 
when off St. John, and goes toward Cape Tourmente, passing between Isle 
Madame and the Isle of Orleans. Then St. Francois is passed, on the 1., 
and the meadows of Argentenay are seen, over which is St. -Tonchim. As 
the X. Channel is opened, a distant view of St. Anne de Beaupr^ may be 
obtained, under the frownmg St. Anne Mts. Cape Tourmente (see page 
287) is now passed, beyond which are the great Laurentian peaks of Cape 
Rouge and Ccipe Gribaune, over 2,000 ft. high, and impinging so closely on 
the river that neither road nor houses can be built. These mountains are 
of granite, and ai-e partially wooded. 8 M, N. E. of Cape Tourmente is a 
lighthouse, 175 ft. above the water, on the rugged slope of Cape Rouge. 
A few miles to the E, is the Sault au Cochon, under the crest of a mountain 
2,370 ft. hish. 



292 Route 72. ST. PAUL'S BAY. 

Boucher asserted, in 1663, that the shore between Cape Tourmente and Tadousac 
was uninhabitable, " being too lofty, and all rocky and escarped." But the French 
Canadians, hardy and tireless, and loving the St. Lawrence more than the Normans 
love the Seine, have founded numerous hamlets on the rocks of this iron shore. The 
coast between St. Joachim and St. Franqois Xavier is as yet unoccupied. 

" We ran along the bases of headlands, 1,000 to 1,500 ft. in height, wild and dark 
with lowering clouds, gray with rain, or touched with a golden transparency by the 
sunshine, — alternating belts of atmospheric effect, which greatly increased their 
beauty. Indeed, all of us who saw the Lower St. Lawrence for the first time were 
surprised by the imposing character of its scenery." (Bayard Taylor.) 

Beyond Abattis and the high cliffs of Cape Maillard the steamer passe.s 
the populous village of St. Franqois Xavier, extending up the valley of the 
Bouchard Kiver. On the S. a long line of picturesque islets is passed 
(see page 254), Beyond Cape Labaie the steamer lies to off St. Paul's 
Bay, whose unique and beautiful scenery is seen from the deck. 

St. PauPs Bay (two small inns) is a parish of 4,000 inhabitants, situ- 
ated amid the grandest scenery of the N. shore. The people are all Frerch, 
and the village is clustered about the church and convent near the Gouffre 
River. In the vicinity are found iron, plumbago, limestone, garnet-rock, 
and curious saline and sulphurous springs. It is claimed that "no parish 
offers so much of interest to the tourist, the poet, or the naturalist." The 
wild and turbulent streams that sweep down the valley have carried away 
all the bridges which have been erected by the people. The summer 
boarding-houses at St. Paul's Bay are kept by Joseph Cimon and Joseph 
Duchene. 

The vistas up the valleys of the Gouffre and the Moulin Rivers show distant 
ranges of picturesque blue mountains, with groups of conical Alpine peaks. In 1791 
it is claimed that the shores of the bay were shaken by earthquakes for many days, 
after which one of the peaks to the N. belched forth great volumes of smoke and 
passed into the volcanic state, emitting columns of flame through several days. The 
peaks are bare and white, with sharp precipices near the summit. The valley of 
the Goufft-e has been likened to the Vale of Clwyd, in Wales, and is traversed by a 
fair road along the r. bank of the rapid river. 10 - 12 M. from the bay are the ex- 
tensive deposits of magnetic iron-ore which were explored by order of Intendant 
Talon, a century and a half ago. In the upper part of the valley, 9 M. from St. 
Paul's Bay, is St. Urbam, a French Catholic village of about 1,000 mhabitants. By 
this route the tri-weekly Royal mail-stages cross to Chicoutimi, on tlio upper Sague- 
nay (see page 300). St. Placnie (Clairvaux) is also back of St. Paul s Bay, and has 
400 inhabitants. ,, , ^-u- ^ , i.T- 

" In all the miles of country I had passed over, 1 had seen nothmg to equal the 
exquisite beauty of the Vale of Bale St. Paul. From the hill on whieh we stood, 
the whole valley, of many miles in extent, was visible. It was perfectly level, and 
covered from end to end with little hamlets, and several churches, with here and 

there a few small patches of forest Like the Happy Valley of Rasselas, it was 

surrounded by the most wild and rusged mountains, wliich rose in endless succes- 
sion one behind the other, stretching away in the distance, till they resembled a 
faint blue wave in the horizon.-' (B.\ll.\ntyne.! 

" Nothing can be more picturesque than the landscape which may be viewed from 
the crest of Cap an Corbeau. Have you courage to clamber up the long slopes of 
Cap au Corbeau ; to see the white-sailed schooners at the entrance of the bay ; to 
comprehend the thousand divers objects at your feet; the sinuous course of the 
Maree and of the serpentine GoufPre ; on the S. the old mansions and rich pas- 
tures ; to see the church and convent and the village, the Cap k la Rey, the bottom 
of the bay ; and, farther awav, the shores of St. Antoine Perou, St. Jerome, St. 
John, St. Joseph, and St. Flavien ? " (Trudklle.) 

The Bay was settled early in the 17th century, and has always been noted for its 



ISLE AUX COUDRES. Route 72. 293 

earthquakes and volcanic disturbances. In October, 1S70, it felt such a severe 
shock that nearly every house in the valley was damaged. In ITnO tiie viUafie was 
destroyed by Gorham's New-England Rangers, alter the inhabitants had del'euded 
It for two hours. 

" Above the Gulph T have just mentioned is the Bay of St. Paul, where the Hab- 
itations begin on the North Side ; and there are some U'oods of Pine-Trees, which 
are much valued : Here are also some red Pines of great Beauty. Messrs. of the 
Seminary of Quebec are Lords of this Bay. Si.x Leagues higher, there is a very 
high Promontory, which terminates a Chain of Mountains, which extend above 400 
I>i'agiie> to the VVest ; It is called Cape Tourmenle. probably because he that gave it 
this X.ime, sutTered here by a Gust of Wind.'" (Charlkvoix.) 

The W. promontory of St. Paul's Bay is Cape Labaie ; that on the E , opposite 
the Isle aux Coudres, is Cape Corhrnu. " This cape ha.s .something of the majestic 
and of the mournful. At a little distance it might be taken for one of tlie immense 
tombs erected in the middle of the Eg3'ptian deserts by the vanity of some puny 
mortal. A cloud of birds, children of storm, wheel continually about its fir- 
erowned brow, and seem, by their sinister croaking, to intone the funeral of some 
dying man." 

Between St. Paul's Bay and the Isle aux Coudres is the whirlpool 
called Le Gonffre, where the water suddenly attains a depth of 30 fath- 
oms, and at ebb-tide the outer currents are repulsed from Coudres to Cor- 
bean in wide swirling eddies. It is said that before the Gouflfre began to 
fill with sand schooners which Avere caught in these eddies descriljed a 
series of spiral curves, the last of which landed them on the rocks. It 
-was the most dreaded point on this shore, and many lives were lost here; 
but its navigation is now safe and easy. 

The Isle aux Coudres is 5a M. long and 2| M. wide, and is a charm- 
ing remnant of primitive Norman life. It has about 800 inhabitants, e - 
gaged in farming, and more purely inediaBval French than any other 
people in Canada. The houses are mostly along the lines of the N. W. 
and S. E. shores; and the Church of St. Louis is on the S. W. point. 
The island is still owned by the Seminary of Quebec, to which it was 
granted in 1687. Large numbers of porpoises are caught between this 
point and the Riviere Quelle, on the S. shore. Bayard Tajdor says: 
"The Isle aux Coudres is a beautiful pastoral mosaic in the pale emerald 
setting of the river." 

Off the Isle aux Coudres, and between that point and Riviere Quelle, great num- 
bers of white whales are caught, in lish-pounds made for the purpo.se. The.se fish 
(often taken for porpoises) live in the Lower St. Lawrence from April to October, 
when they migrate to the Gulf and the Arctic Ocean. They are from 14 to 22 ft. 
in length, and yield 100-120 gallons of fine oil, which is much u.sed for lighthouse 
purpo-es, because it does not freeze in winter. A valuable leather is made from 
their skins. 

When Cartier was advancing up the St. Lawrence in 1535, under the direction of 
the Quebec Indians whom he had abducted from Gasp , he landed on this island, 
and, marvelling at the numerous liazel-trees upon tUe hills, named it L' Isle aux 
Coudrps (H.izel-tree Island). This point he made the divi-;ion between the country 
of Saguenay ami that of Canada. " In 16 13 an Earthquake rooted up a Mountain, 
and threw it upon the Isle of Coudres, which was made one half larger than before, 
and in the Place of the Mountain there appeared a Gulf, which it is not safe to 
approach." 

The island was deserted by its inhabitants in the summer of 1759, when great 
British fleets were anchored off the shores, but several boats' crews were driven 
from the strand by rangers. Three British officers landed on the isle, carrying a flag 



294 Route 72. MURRAY BAY. 

which they were about to raise on the chief eminence before the fleet ; but they 
were cut off bv a small party of Canadians, and were led prisoners to Quebec. Ad- 
miral Durell first reached the island, with 10 frigates, and captured 3 French ves- 
sels bearing 1,800 barrels of 



The steamer runs S. E. for several miles in the narrow channel between 
the Isle aux Coudres and the mountains of the N. Shore. At 11 M from 
St. Paul's Bay it rounds in at the pier (920 ft. long) of the parish of Les 
Eboulements, a farming district of 2,400 inhabitants. " High on the 
crest of the Laurentides, old as the world, the tourist sees on the N., on 
landing at the Eboulements pier, the handsome parish-church." The situa- 
tion of this village iS one of the most quaint and charming on the river, 
and overlooks the St. Lawrence for many leagues. The white houses are 
grouped snugly about the tall Notre Dame Church, above which the dark 
peak of Mt. Eboulements rises to the height of 2,547 ft. 

In the vicinity of Les Eboulements are visible the tracks of the great land-slides 
of 1663, in that season when so many marvellous phenomena were seen in Canada. 
The St.Lawrence ran " white as milk," as far down as Tadousac ; ranges of hills were 
thrown down into the river, or were swallowed up in the plains ; earthquakes shat- 
tered the houses and shook the trees until the Indians said that the forests were 
drunk ; vast fissures opened in the ground ; and the courses of streams were changed. 
Meteors, fiery-winged serpents, and ghastly spectres were seen in the air ; roarings 
and mysterious voices sounded on every side ; and the confessionals of all the 
churches were crowded with penitents, awaiting the end of the world. 

The steamer now rounds the huge mass of Mt. Eboulements, passing the 
rugged spurs called Goose Cape and Cape Corneille. On the E. slope is 
seen the large village of St. Irenee^ where 900 French people preserve their 
ancient customs and language. A. few miles farther E. the steamer rounds 
in at Murray Bay. 

Murray Bay is the favorite summer resort of the N. Shore, and has 
fine facilities for boating and bathing, with a long firm beach. It is also 
one of the best fishing-centres in the Province, and sportsmen meet with 
success in the waters of the beautiful ]\Iurray River, or the Gravel and 
Petit Lakes, The steamer stops at the long wharf at Point a Pique, near 
which are the hotels, frequented in summer by many Quebec families, who 
enjoy the beautiful scenery of the adjacent country. There are also sum- 
mer cottages about the base of Cap a VAirjle. The tourists occupy Point 
h Pique, and make excursions to the lakes and the falls, the Trou, Frazer 
Falls, the Chute, etc The French town is 3 M. E., at the Murray-River 
bridge, about the great church and court-house of Charlevoix Count}'. It 
has 3,000 inhabitants. Read Annie Howells Frechette's paper in Harper's 
Mayazine, July, 1884. Chamard's Lome House is the chief hotel. 

" Of all the picturesque parishes on the shore of our grand river, to which innu- 
merable swarms of tourists go every sumnicr to take tlie M-aters, none will interest 
the lover of sublime landscapes ^uore than Malbaie. One must go there to enjoy tlic 
rugged, the grandeur of nature, the broad horizons. IIo will not find liere the beau- 
tiful wheat-fields of Kamouraska, the pretty and verdurous shores of Cacouna or 
Rimouski, where the languorous citizen goes to strengthen his energies during the 
dog-days; here is savage and unconquered nature, and view-points jet more majes- 
tic than those of the coasts and walls of Bic. Precipice on precipice ; impenetrable 
gorges in the projections of the rocks ; peaks which lose themselves in the clouds, 
and among which the bears wander through July, in search of berries; where the 



RIVrkRE DU LOUP. Route 7^2. 295 

caribou browses in September ; where the solitjiry crow and the royal eapfle make 
their nests in May ; in short, alpine landscapes, the pithless highlands of Scotland, 
a Byrouic nature^ tossed about, heaped up in the North, far from the ways of civ- 
ilized men. near a volcano that from time to time awakens and shakes the country in 
a manner to frig'nten, but not to endanger, tlie i-omantic inhabitants. According to 
some, in onler to enjoy all the fulness of these austere beauties, one must be at the 
privileged epoch of lite. If thcMi you wish to taste, in their full features, the dreamy 
solitudes of the shores, the grottos, the great forests of Point a. IMque or Cap .\. 
I'Aigle, or to capture by hundreds the frisking trout of the remote Gravel Lake, you 
mus^t have a ijood eye, a well-nerved arm, and a supple leg." (LiiMoiNE.) 

This district was formerly known as the King's Farm, and had 30 houses at tlie 
conquest of Oana'la. It was then granted to the Scottish officers, Major Nairn and 
M.ilcom Fra-er, who soon promoted its settlement. It was explored in June, 1608, 
by L'hunplaiu, who named it Malle Bale, on account of " the tide which runs there 
marvellously, and, even though the weather is calm, the bay is greatly moved." It 
is still generally known as Malbaie, though the English use the name Murrav Bay, 
given in honor of the gener.il who granted it to the Scots. Tlie Scotch families 
brought out by Fraser and Nairn are now French in language and customs. A 
depot for American pri>oners-of-war was established here in 1776, near the Nairn 
manor-house, and the barracks were built by the captives themselves. 

The great French settlement of St. A^nesi, with 1,600 inhabitants, is 9 M. W. of 
Murray Bay, up the valley, and on the verge of the wide wilderness of the Crown 
Lands. A rugged road follows the N. shore from Murray Bay to the Saguenay 
River, a distance of about 40 M., passing the romantic St. Fidele (9 M. out ; 1,000 
inhabitants), the lumbering village of Port au Persil, the hamlets of Black River, 
Port aux Quilles, St. Simeon, and Calliere, back of which are mountains where 
many moose and caribou are found. Still farther E. is Bale des Rochers, on an 
island-studded bay. 

The steamer now stretches out across the river in a diagonal course of 
30 M., the direction being about N. E. The river is about 20 M. wide, 
and tlie steamer soon comes in sight of the Kamouraska Islands (see page 
252), on the 1., and then passes between Hare Island (1.) and the Pil- 
grims. The vessel soon reaches the long pier at Point a BeauUeu^ 3 ]M. 
from Riviere du Loup. 

Riviere du Loup (*Z,a Rochelle House; ar.d sevei-al large summer 
boarding-houses) is a prosperous village of 4,500 inhabitants, occupying 
a fine position on a hillside near the mouth of the river. There are some 
pretty villas in the vicinity, and the great church in the centre of the 
town is a prominent landmark for miles. About 3 ]M. up the river are the 
famous * Rimere-du-Lonp Falls, near the new and massive bridge of the 
Intercolonial Railway. The stream here plunges over a cliff about 80 ft. 
high, and then rests quietly in a broad pool below. The views of the 
river and its islands and shipping, from the streets of the village, are 
broad and beautiful; and many summer visitors pass their vacations 
here, finding comfortable accommodations in the boarding-houses. The 
Teniiscouata road runs S. E. from this point into New Brunswick, cross- 
ing numerous ti-out-streams and leading through a desolate region of 
hills. Its first point of interest is the long Temiscouaia Lahe (see page 
68). 

Riviere du Loup will soon be one of the chief railway-centres of Canada. It has 
been the E. terminus of the Grand Trunk line for years. The Intercolonial is no^T 



296 Route 72. CACOUNA. 

well and surely completed from this point to St. John and Halifax, and the New- 
Brunswick Railway has i^teu pushed hitherward up the St. John Valley (see page 
53). 

This domain was granted by the Compagnie des Indes Occidentales to the Sieur 
de la Chesnoye in 1673. It is said that its name is derived from the fact that in 
former years great droves of seals [lovps-marins) frequented the shoals at the mouth 
of the river, making a remarkable uproar at night. 

A persistent attempt, has been made to call this town Fraservil/.f, in honor of the 
Frasers, who are its reigniors The numerous Erasers of this Province met at 
Quebec in 1868 to re-form their ancient Scottish clan organization, and to nam.e 
Provincial, county, and parish chieftains. The head-chief is entitled The Eraser, 
and is the Hon. John Fraser de Berry, " 58th descendant of Jules de Berry, a rich 
and powerful lord, who gave a sumptuous feast to the Emperor Charlemagne and 
his numerous suite, at his castle in Normandy, in the 8th century " The solemn 
Scots maintain that De Berry then regaled Charlemagne with strawberries (/raises, 
in the French language), and that the Emperor was so greatly pleased that he 
ordered that he should thenceforth be known as Fraiser de Berry, and from him the 
Clan Fraser traces its name and descent. 

Cacouna is 6 M. from Riviere du Loup, and is the chief summer resort 
of Canada. The '^ St. Laiorence Hall is the most fashionable hotel, and 
accommodates 600 guests, at $2.50-8 a day. The Mansion House charges 
$1.50 a day, and accommodates 150 guests. There are several summer 
boarding-houses whose rates are still lower. The traveller who visits 
Cacouna from h'iviere du Loup must be on his guard against the extortions 
of the carriage-drivers, who frequently demand exorbitant fares. 

Twenty years ago Cacouna was nothing; it is now filled with great ho- 
tels and boarding-houses, and adorned with many summer cottages. It is 
visited by thousands of Canadians, and also by many Americans " fuyant 
le ciel corrosif de New- York." Here may be seen the Anglo-Canadian 
girls, who are said to combine the physical beauty and strength of the 
English ladies Avith the vivacity and brilliancy of the Americans. The 
amusements of the village are like those of similar places farther S., — 
sea-bathing and fishing, driving, and balls which extend into the small 
hours. The beach is good, and the river-views from the heights are of 
famed beauty. There is a pretty lake back among the hills, where many 
trout are found. 

The great specialties of Cacouna are its pure cool air and brilliant north- 
ern scenery. It is sometimes found too cold, even in August, during 
rainy weather, for the American visitors, who then hurry away in crowds. 
The peninsula of Cacouna is a remarkable mass of rock, nearly 400 ft. 
high, which is connected with the mainland by a low isthmus. Its name 
was given by the Indians, in allusion to its form, and signifies "'the tur- 
tle." The village is French, and has 700 inhabitants, and Anglican, Meth- 
odist, and tionian Catholic churches. 44 M. distant is the populous parisli 
of tSt. Arsene, and 8 M. S, is St. Modeste. 

From Kiviere du Loup the steamer nms across to the Saguenay River, 
passing witliin 3-4 M- of Cacouna, and running between the Brandy Pots 
(1.) and Ked Island (see page 252). 
The Saguenay River, see Koute 73. 



73. 297 



Saguenay, on 
1 Wednesday, 
irt on the re- 

=B/<C t. Marguerite, 
jij,- . Xiver, 27 ; St. 
v%^ 5 ; Cape East, 
^^rai, 100. This 
^^^i!-t, but will be 
^the points on 
^^^5'a////i^ Biren- 
I Chicoutimi. 



Wiv 



er St. Law- 

^ ch 11 rivers 

^> 2.^ M. wide, 

;^; and gneiss, 

I'"" tunted trees. 

elling of the 

f the river is 

ice which is 

e stripped of 

.•s of hemlock 

from the St. 

^nains on the 

in-shores, the 

ly leagues of 

. it is yearly 

of the West- 

n, like that of 

- of a mountain 

cenery of this 

•liffs of granitic 

d in their crev- 

• lO'.v themselves 

The keen air, 

■ntracts the di- 

irently belittles 

nent. Still, it 

fettered by the 

•.. Peter's or at 

3 the grandeur 

r and its vary- 

ression of tne 

the frasments 

h their scanty 

ly, there split 

the dark-blue 

lack as night, 

solitude was, 

s The 

he Norwegian 



THE SAGUENAY RIVER. Route 73. 297 



73. The Saguenay River. 

Steamers leave Quebec for Chicoutiini, the farthest port on the Saguenay, on 
Tuesiluy aud Friday, at 7 A M. (see page 291) ; and for 11a Ila Bay on Wednesday, 
Tlmrsday.and Saturday. They reach Tadousac by nightfall, and start ou the re- 
turn from Chicoutimi the next morning. 

Distances. — Quebec to Tadousac, 134 M. ; Tadousac to Riviere St. Marguerite, 
15; St. Louis Islets, It); Riviere aux Canards. 23; Little Saguenay River, 27: St. 
John's Bay, 32; Eternity Bay. 41 ; Trinity Bay. 48; Cape Rouge, 56 ; Cape East, 
63; Cape West, Bo; St. Alphouse,72; St. Fulgence, Uo ; Chicoutimi, 100. This 
itinerary is based on that of the steamship company and is not correct, but will be 
useful in marking approximations to the relative distances between the points on 
the river. There is no other table of distances acces.sible. Imray's Sai/ing Direc- 
tions (precise authority) says that it is tio M. from the St. Lawrence to Chicoutimi. 

The ** Saguenay River is the chief tributary of the Lower St. Law- 
rence, and is the outlet of the great Lake St. John, into which 11 rivers 
fall. For the last 50 M. of its course the stream is from 1 to 2^ M. wide, 
and is bordered on both sides by lofty precipices of syenite and gneiss, 
which impinge directly on the shores, and are dotted with stunted trees. 
Along their slopes are the deep lines of glacial striations, telling of the 
passage of formidable icebergs down this chasm. The bed of the river is 
100 fathoms lower than that of the St. Lawrence, a difference which is 
sharply marked at the point of confluence. The shores were stripped of 
their forests by a great fire, in ISIO, but there are large numbers of hemlock 
and birch trees in the neighboring glens. The river is frozen from the St. 
Louis Isles to Chicoutimi during half the year, and snow remains on the 
hills until June. The awful majesty of its unbroken mountain-shores, the 
profound depth of its waters, the absence of life through many leagues of 
distance, have made the Saguenay unique among rivers, and it is yearly 
visited by thousands of tourists as one of the chief curiosities of the West- 
ern World. 

" The Saguenay is not, properly, a river. It is a tremendous chasm, like that of 
the Jordan Valley and the Dead Sea, cleft for 60 M through the heart of a mountain 

wilderness No magical illusions of atmosphere enwrap the scenery of this 

northern river. Everything is hard, naked, stern, silent. Dark-gray cliffs of granitic 
gneiss rise from the pitch-black water ; firs of gloomy greeu are rooted in their crev- 
ices and fringe their sunmiits ; loftier ranges of a dull indigo hue show themselves 
in the background, and over all bends a pale, cold, northern sky. The keen air, 
which bring-* out every object with a crystalline distinctness, even contracts the di- 
mensions of the scenery, diminishes the height of the cliffs, and apparently belittles 
the majesty of the river, so that the first feeling is one of disappointment. Still, it 
exercises a fascination which you cannot resist You look, and look, fettered by the 
fresh, novel, savage stamp which nature exhibits, and at last, as in .St. Peter's or at 
Niagara, learn from the character of the separate features to appreciate the grandeur 

of the whole Steadily upwards we went, the windings of the river and its vary- 

iig breadth — from A M. to nearly 2 M. — giving us a shifting succe.s.sion of tne 
grandest pictures. Shores that seemed roughly piled together out of the fragments 
of chaos overhung us, — great masses of rock, gleaming duskily through their scanty 
drapery of evergreens, here lifting long irregular walls ag.ainst the sky, there split 
into huge, fantastic forms by deep lateral gorges, up which we saw the dark-blue 
crests of loftier mountains in the re<ar. The water beneath us was black as night, 
with a pitchy glaze on its surface; and the only life in all the savage solitude was, 

now and then, the back of a white porpoise, in some of the deeper cove.s The 

river is a reproduction — truly on a contracted scale — of the fiords of the Norwegian 

13* 



298 RoutelS. THE SAGUENAY RIVER. 

coast The dark mountains, the tremendous precipices, the fir forests, even the 

settlements at Ha Ha Bay and L'Anse a I'Eau (except that the houses are white in- 
stead of red) are as completely Norwegian as they can be. The Scandinavian skip- 
pers who come to Canada all notice this resemblance, and many of them, 1 learn, 
settle here." (Batard Taylor.) 

" From Ha Ha right down to the St. Lawrence, you see nothing but the cold, 
black, gloomy Saguenay, rolling between two straight lines of rocky hills that rise 
steeply from" the water's edge. These hills, though steep, are generally roughly 
rounded in shape, and not abrupt or faced with precipices. This makes the scenery 
differ from that with which it has been often compared, the boldest of the fiords of 
Norway. Over the rugged hills of the Saguenay there is generally enough of earth 
here and there lodged to let the gray rock be dotted over with a dark-green sprink- 
ling of pine-trees. Perhaps there is hardly a spot on the S;i^uenay,Mhich, taken by 
itself would not impress any lover of wild nature by its grandeur, and even sublimity ; 
but after sailing for 70 miles downwards, passing rocky hill after rocky hill , risingone 
beyond the other in monotonously straight lines alongside of you ; . . . . after vainly 
longing for some break in these twin imprisoning walls, which might allow the eye 
the relief of wandering over an expanse of country, — you will begin to compare the 

Saguenay in no kindly spirit to the Rhine It is a cold, savage, inhuman river, 

fit to take rank with Styx and Acheron ; and, into the bargain, it is dull. For the 
whole 70 miles, you will not be likely to see any living thing on it or near it, outside 
of your own steamer, not a house, nor a field, nor a sign of any sort that living 
things have ever been there." (White ) 

" Sunlight and clear sky are out of place over its black waters. Anything which 
recalls the hfe and smile of nature is not in unison with the huge naked cliffs, raw, 
cold, and silent as the tombs. An Italian spring could effect no change in the 
deadly, rugged aspect ; nor does winter add one iota to its mournful desolation. It 
is with a sense of relief that the tourist emerges from its sullen gloom, and looks 
back upon it as a kind of vault, — Nature's sarcophagus, Mhere hfe or sound seems 
never to have entered. Compared to it the Dead Sea is blooming, and the wildest 
ravines look cosey and smiling. It is wild without the least variety, and grand 
apparently in spite of itself ; while so utter is the solitude, so dreary and monoto- 
nous the frown of its great black walls of rock, that the tourist is sure to get impa- 
tient with its sullen dead reverse, till he feels almost an antipathy to its very name. 
The Saguenay seems to want painting, blowing up, or draining, — anything, in 
short, to alter its morose, quiet, eternal av.e. Talk of Lethe or the Styx, — they 
must have been purling brooks compared with this savage river ; and a picnic on the 
banks of either would be preferable to one on the banks of the Saguenay." {London 
Times.) 

On Sept. 1,1535, Tadousac was visited by the wonder-loving Cartier, with three 
vessels. He saw the Indians fishing off shore, and reported that, " in ascending the 
Saguenay, you reach a country where there are men dressed like us, who live in 
cities, and have much gold, rubies, and copper." The river was visited by Robcrval 
in 1543, and part of the expedition was lost. Thenceforward the country of the 
Saguenay was explored by the fur-traders and the fearless Jesuits. In It'OS Tadou- 
sac was visited by Champlain, around whose vessel the natives crowded in their canoes 
in order to sell or barter away their peltries. Seven years later a solemn and beau- 
tiful scene occurred at Point la Boule (the immense promontory which is seen 5 
M. up-stream), when Champlain and Lescarbot attended the great council of the 
Rlontaignais. They were received M-ith dignified courtesy by the Sagamore Anada- 
bijou, and conducted to the meeting of the warriors, where sevei'al grave and 
eloquent speeches were made while the pipe of peace was passed around. The 
Montaignais at that time numbered 9 tribes, *2 of which dwelt .along the river, and 
the other 7 occupied the vast area towards Hudson's Bay and the land of the Esqui- 
maux. Their last Sagamore, Simeon, died in 1849, and had no successor, and the 
poor remnant of the nation now obtains a precarious living by beggary, or has with- 
drawn into the fastnesses of the North. The present name of the river is a modifi- 
cation of the original Indian word Snsgif'/i^e/cuss, which means "a river whose 
banks are precipitous." 

In 1(571 the heroic .and self-abnegating .lesuit, Ptre de Crepienl, founded the mis- 
sion at Tadousac, where he remained for 26 years, passing the winters in tlie 
wretched huts of the savages. Before this time (in 1661) the Fathers Druillettes and 



TADOUSAC. Route 73. 299 

Dablon had ascended the rlrer to I^ikc St. John and there had baptized many In- 
dians, and founded the mission of St. Francois Xavier. The Montaijrnais are still 
in the Catholic faith, and each family has its pniyer-book and breviary, in which 
they are able to read. In 1(371 Father Albanel ascended tlie Sajriienay from Tadou- 
sac, bv order of Intendant Bi^ot, and passed N. to Iliidsun's Ray by way of the 
great lakes of St. John and Mistassiui. The country about the Upper Suguenay was 
then well known to the zealous churchmen, but after the decline of the missions it 
was foi-gotteu. About 50 years ago the Canadian government had it re-exploreil by 
efficient officers, and this remote region is now being occupied by French-Canadian 
hamlets. The chief business on the river is the exportation of lumber, which is 
shipped from Chicoutimi in immense quantities. 

Tadousac is a small village, prettily situated on a semicircular terrace 
surrounded with mountains and fronting on a small harbor, deep and 
secure. The St. Lawrence is here about 24 M. wide, and the mountains 
of the S. shore are visible, while on clear days the view includes the white 
villages of Cacouna and Riviere du Loup. The * Tadousac Hotel ($2.50 a 
day) is a spacious establishment on the bluff over the beach. It was 
founded in 1865 by a joint-stock company, and has been successful. The 
sea-bathing is very good, although the water is cold, and sea-trout are 
caught off the shore. The old buildings of the Hudson's Baj^ Company 
are near the hotel, and on the lawn before them is a battery of antiquated 
4-pounders. E. of the hotel is the old * chapel of the Jesuit mission, 
which was erected in 1746 on the ste of a still more ancient church. The 
summer cottages are near the shore, and are cheerful little buildings. The 
Earl of Dufferin, late Governor-General of Canada, erected a handsome 
house here. The scenery of the landward environs is described in the 
Indian word Tadousac, which means knobs or mamelons. 

" Tadousac is placed, like a nest, in the midst of the granite rocks that surround 
the mouth of the Saguenay. The chapels and the buildings of the post occupy the 
edge of a pretty plateau, on the summit of an escarped height So perched, these 
edifices dominate the narrow strip of fine sand which sweeps around at their feet. 
On the r. the view plunges into the profound waters of the sombre Saguenay ; in 
front, it is lost in the immense St. Lawrence. All around are mountains covered 
with fir-trees and birches. Through the opening which the mighty river has cut 
through the rock, the reefs, the islands, and south shores are seen. It is a delicious 
place •' (Tache.) 

4 M. E. of Tadousac is the harbor of Moulin d Baude, where are large beds of 
white marble. Charlevoix anchored here in the Cltmneau (in 1700), and was so en- 
thusiastic over the discovery that he reported that " all this country is full of mar- 
ble."' Poinle Roui;e, the S. E. promontory before Tadousac, is composed of an in- 
tensely hard red granite The shore extends to the N. E. to the famous shooting- 
grounds of Mille Vaches,thc trout-stream of the Laval River, and the Hudson's Bay 
post of Betsiamitis (see page 233). 

In the year 1599 a trading-post was established at Tadousac by Pontgrav^ and 
Chauvin, to whom this country had been granted. They built storehouses and huts, 
and left 16 men to gather in the furs from the Indians, but .several of the-e died 
and the rest fled into tlie forest. Two subsequent attempts within a few years ended 
as disastrously. In 1628 the place was captured by Admiral Kirke, and in 1032 his 
brother died here. In 1658 the lordship of this district, was given to the Sieur De- 
maux, with the dominion over the country between Eboulements and Cape Cor- 
morant. Three years later the place was captured by the Iroquois, .and the garrison 
was massacred. In 1690 three French frigates, bearing the royal treasure to Quebec, 
were chased in here by Sir William Phipps"s Xew-Engiand tleet. They formed bat- 
teries on the Tadousac shores, but the Americans were unable to get their vessels 



300 Route 73. CHICOUTIMI. 

up through the swift currents, and the French fleet was saved. The trading-post 
and mission were kept up with advantage. Charlevoix visited the place in 1720, and 
says: " The greatest Part of our Greographers have here placed a Town, but where 
there never was but one French house, and some huts of Savages M'ho came there in 
the Time of the Trade and who carried away their Huts or Booths, when they went 
away ; and tliis was the whole matter. It is true that this Port has been a long 
Time the Resort of all the Savage Nations of the North and East, and that the 
French resorted thither as soon as the Navigation was free both from France and 
Canada ; the Missionaries also made Use of t.he Opportunity, and came to trade here 
for Heaven. And when the Trade was over, the Merchants returned to their Homes, 
the Savages took the Way to their Villages or Forests, and the Gospel Labourers fol- 
lowed the last, to compleat their Instructions." 

The steamei' leaves Tadousac during the evening, and ascends the river 
by night, when, if the sky is unclouded, there are beautiful effects of star- 
light or moonlight on the frowning shores. The return trip down the river 
is made the next day, and the full power of the scenery is then felt. This 
description of the river begins, therefore, at the head of navigation, and 
follows the river downward, detaching the detour into Ha Ha Ba}^, for the 
sake of continuity. 

CMcoutimi (good hotel) is the capital of Chicoutimi County, and has 
2,300 inhabitants. It i?* situated at the head of navigation on the Sagnenay, 
and is the great shipping-point of the lumber districts. Over 40 ships 
load here every year, most of them being squarely built Scandinavian 
vessels. The trade amounts to $ 500,000 a vear, and is vmder the control 
of Senator Price of Quebec, who has fine villas at Chicoutimi and Tadousac, 
and is knovi^n as ' the King of the Saguenay." The powerful house of 
Price Brothers & Co. owns most of the Sa2:uenay country, and has estab- 
lishments on the Lower St. Lawrence and in England. Their property in 
mills, buildings, and vessels is of immense value. Over the steamboat- 
pier is the new college, built of stone, about an open quadrangle. Near 
by are the cathedral and the convent of the Good Shepherd. Beyond the 
town the court-house is seen, on the dark slope of a high hill; and the 
white ribbon of the * Chicoutimi Falls is visible to the 1. The Chicoutimi 
River here falls 40 - 50 ft., iust before entering the Sagnenay. This stream 
affords fine sport for the fisherman, and contains great numbers of fish re- 
sembling the land-locked salmon, or grilse. 

Chicoutimi signifies " deep water," and was so called by the Northern Indians who 
here first encountered the profound depths of the Saguenay. There is fine tisliiTig about 
the falls and the adjacent rapids (permission must be obtained, and is often granted in 
courtesy to strangers). The ancient .Tcsuit chapel and the Hudson's l>;iy Oonipan_> \s 
post were situated near the confluence of tlie two rivers, and within the chapel 
(which remained until recently) was the tomb of Father Cccquart, the last of the 
Jesuit missionaries. A strong mission was founded here in 1727, by Father Labrosse, 
and many Indians were converted. 

St. Anne du Sar/uenat/ is a village of 200 inhabitants, on the high bank 
of the river opposite Chicoutimi. Lake St. John is about 60 M. W. of 
Chicoutimi, and is reached by a good road, which passes through Jon- 
qui^re, Kenogami, and Hebertville (1,200 inhabitants). The Eapids of 
Terres Eompues, on the Saguenay River, are 9 M. above Chicoutimi 



LAKE ST. JOHN. Routt 73. 301 

There are numerous rapids, and far above come the mighty rusli and uproar 
of the Grand Dccliarge and Petit Decharge. These empty the waters of 
the lake, and, sweeping around a rugged ishiiid with terrilio and unnatural 
force, unite and rage and contend. 

A railway runs from Quebec 190 M. N. to Lake St. John, where there is 
a large summer-hotel, at Roberrul. The steamer Peribonat makes daily 
trips around this remote northern lake, which is 26 by 20 M. in area, and 
receives the mile-wide rivers, Mistassiiii, Peribonca, and Asluiapmou- 
chouan, each flowing 200 M., from the Hudson's Bay water-shed. The 
lake is surrounded by French Catholic hamlets, with tin-clad church-spires. 
The famous and gamey fish called winanishe abound in these waters, with 
trout and pickerel, perch and pike. 

L.ake St. John was discovered in 1647 by Father Duquen, the missionary 
at Tadousac, who was the first European to ascend the Saguenay to its source. 
It was then called by the Indians Picouagami, or Flat Lake. Several Jesuit mis- 
sionaries soon passed by this route to the great Nekouba, where all the northern 
tribes were wont to meet in annual fairs ; and in 1672 Father Albanel advanced from 
Tadousac, by Lake i:?t. John and Lake Mistassini, to the Mer du Nord, or Hud- 
son's Bay. A Catholic mission was founded on the lake, at Metabetchuan, and 
posts of the Hudson's Bay Company were also established here. The lake is of 
great area, and receives the waters of 8 large rivers, the chief of which is the Mis- 
tassini, Howing down 250 M. from Lake Misiassini, which is 75 X 30 M. in area. 
The water is shallow, and is agitated into furious white waves by the N. W. winds. 
To the N. and W. is a vast region of low volcanic mountains and dreary lands 
of low spruce forests. The soil along the lake-shores is said to be a fertile allu- 
vium, capable of nourishing a dense population ; but the winters are long and ter- 
rible. 20 years ago there were no settlements here except the Hudson's Bay posts ; 
now there are numerous villages, the chief of which are Roberval, Riviere a I'Ours, 
and St. Jerome. 

Mr. Price, M. P., states that a missionary has recently discovered, high upon the 
Saguenaj- (or on the Mistassini), an ancient French fort, with intreuchments and 
stockades. On the inside were two cannon, and several broken tombstones dating 
from the early part of the 16th century. It is surmised that these remote memorials 
mark the last resting-place of the Sieur Roberval, Governor-General of Canada, who 
(it is supposed) sailed up the Saguenay in 1.543, and was never heard from after- 
wards. The Robervals were favorites of King Francis I., who called one of them 
" the Petty King of Viemen," and the other, " the Gendarme of Hannibal." They 
were both lost on their lai^t expedition to America. 

In descending the Saguenay from Chicoutimi to Ha Ha Ba}', the scenery 
is of remarkable boldness, but is less startling than the low^er reaches of 
the river. Soon after leaving the village the steamer passes the pretty 
villa and the Anglican church pertaining to Senator Price. Below this 
point is a line of hills of marly clay; and Cape St. Fran9ois soon rears its 
dark crest on the 1. bank. The river widens rapidly, and the hamlet of 
St. Fulyence is seen on the 1., near Pointe Roches. Beyond the ponderous 
walls o^ High Point is another broad reach, with small islets under the 1. 
bank. The steamer now runs between the frowning promontories of Cape 
East and Cape West, and passes the entrance to Ha Ha Bay. 

* Ha Ha Bay runs 7 M. S. W. from the Saguenay, and is ascended be- 
tween lofty and serrated ridges, bristling Avith sturdy and stunted trees. 
So broad and stately is this udet that it is said that the early French 
explorers ascended it in the btlief that it was the main river, and the 
name onginate<l from their exclamations on reaching the end, either of 



302 Route 73. HA HA BAY. 

amusement at their mistake or of pleasure at the beautiful appearance of 
the meadows. After running for several miles between the terraced cliffs 
of Cape West (on the r.) and the opposite ridges, the steamer enters a 
wide haven whose shores consist of open intervale-land, backed by tall 
blue heights. The entrance is 4 M. long, 1 M. wide, and 100 fathoms 
deep, and the haven can be reached by ships of the line without difficulty. 
It is expected that this bay will be the great port of "the hyperborean 
Latin nation" which is fast settling the Upper Saguenay and Lake St. 
John country. Large quantities of lumber are loaded here upon British 
and Scandinavian ships, and a flourishing trade is carried on in the-^ 
autumn by sending farm-produce and blueberries to Quebec, — the latter 
being packed in coffin-shaped boxes and sold for 30-40 cents a bushel. 

The steamer touches at St. Aljjhonse (Bagotville), a small French village, 
with a church and a comfortable hotel. Calashes run from the pier to 
St. Ahxls (Grande Bale), 3 M. off, around the bay, crossing the Riviere a 
Mars, famous for its salmon-tisheries (rights may easily be bought or 
leased). 3 M. from the bay, near the falls of Mars River, are the three 
Gravel Lakes, famous for immense and delicious red trout. The mail-road 
is prolonged from St. Alexis, through the uninhabited wilderness of the 
Crown Lands, to St. Urbain and St. Paul's Bay (see page 292). 

" The long line of sullen hills had fallen away, and the morning sun shone warm 
on what in a friendlier climate would have heen a very lovely landscape. The bay 
was an irregular oval, with shores that rose in bold but not lofty heights on one 
side, while on the other lay a narrow plain with two villages clinging about the road 
that followed the crescent beach, and lifting each the slender tin-clad spire of its 
church to sparkle in the sun. At the head of the bay was a mountainous top, and 
along its waters were masses of rocks, gayly painted with lichens and stained with 
metallic tints of orange and scarlet." iHowells.) 

21 M. from Ha Ha Bay is Lac d la Belle Truite^ 
and beyond is the Great Ha Ha Lake, among the mountains, with hold capes en- 
circling forests, and a pretty island. 6 M. from Belle Truite is the Little Ha Ha 
Lake, on whose shore is a stupendous cliff nearly 2,000 ft. high The blue peaks of 
the St. Margaret Mts. are about 30 M. from Ha Ha Bay, and sweep from Lake St. 
John to Hudson's Bay. Carriages may be taken from St. Alphonse to Chicoutimi 
(12 M.), and for longer excursions toward Lake St. John. 

After passing the dark chasm of Ha Ha Bay, Ctipe East is seen on the 1., 
throwing its serf-ated ledges far out into the stream, and cutting otf the 
retrospective view. Rugged palisades of syenite line the shores on both 
sides. " The procession of the pine-clad, rounded heights on either shore 
began shortly after Ha Ha Bay had disappeared behind a curve, and it 
hardly ceased, save at one point, before the boat re-entered the St. Law- 
rence. The shores of the river are almost uninhabited. The hills rise 
from the water's edge; and if ever a narrow vale divides them, it is but 
to open drearier solitudes to the eye." Just before reaching Cape Rouge 
(1. bank) the ravine of Descente des Femmes opens to the N., deriving its 
singular name from a tradition that a party of Indians Avere starving, in 
the back-country, and sent their squaws for help, who descended to the 
river through this wild gorge and secured assistance. 



ETERNITY BAY. Route 7S. 303 

On the r. bank is * Le Tableau, a clilT 900 ft. high, whose riverward 
face contains a broad sheet of dark linie:>tone, 600 X 300 ft. in area, so 
smooth and straiglit as to suggest a vast canvas prepared for a picture. 
Still farther down (r. bank) is 

"* Statue Point, where, at about 1,000 feet above the water, a huge, 
rough Gothic arch gives entrance to a cave, in which, as yet, the foot of 
man has never trodden. Before the entrance to this bhick aperture, a 
gigtintic rock, like the statue of some dead Titan, once stood. A few 
years ago, during the winter, it gave way, and the monstrous statue came 
crashing down through the ice of the Saguenay, and left bai-e to view the 
entrance to the cavern it had guarded perhaps for ages." 

The steamer soon passes Cape Trinity on the r. bank, and runs in 
close to ** Eternity Bay, which is a narrow cove between the majestic 
clitfs of Cape Trinity and Cape Eternity. The water is 150 fathoms deep, 
and the clitfs descend abruptly into its profoundest parts. * Cape Trinity 
consists of three vast superimposed precipices, each of which is 5-600 
ft. high, on whose faces are seen two remarkable profiles. The echo in 
the bay is wonderful, and is usually tested by discharging a gun or blow- 
ing a whistle. (In recent maps and descriptions the name of Eternity has 
been given to the N. cape, and Trinity to the other. This is not correct, 
for the X. cape was named La Trinity by the Jesuits on account of its 
union of three vast sections into one mountain. It is known by that name 
among the old pilots and river-people. The Editor has substituted the 
correct names in the ensuing quotations.) 

" The masterpiece of the Saguenay is the majesty of its two grandest bulwarks, 
— Cape Trinity and Cape Eternity, — enormous masses of rock, 1,500 feet high, 
rising sheer out of the black water, and jutting forward into it so as to shelter a lit- 
tle bay of the river between thnir gloomy portals. In the sublimity of their height 
and steepness, and in the beautiful effect against the rock of the pine-trees which 
here and there gain a dizzy foothold, nestling trustfully into every hollow on the 
face of the tremendous precipice, these capes can hardly be surpassed by any river- 
scene in the world.-' (W'hitk.) 

"Suddenly the boat rounded the corner of the three steps, each 500 ft. high, in 
which Cape Trinity climbs from the river, and crept in under the naked side of the 
awful cliff. It is sheer rock, springing from the black water, and stretching upward 
with a weary, effort-hke aspect, in long impulses of stone marked by deep seams 
from space to space, till, 1,-500 ft. in air, its vast brow beetles forward, and frowns 

with a scattering fringe of pines The rock fully justifies its attributive height 

to the eye, which follows the upward rush of the mighty acclivity, steep after steep, 
till it wins the cloud-capt summit, when the measureless mass seems to swing and 
sway overhead, and the nerves tremble with the same terror that besets him who 
looks downward from the verge of a lofty precipice. It is wholly grim and stern ; 
no touch of beauty relieves the austere majesty of that presence. At the foot of 
Cape Trinity the water is of unknown depth, and it spreads, a black expanse, in the 
rounding hollow of shores of unimaginable wildness and desolation, and issues 
again in its river's course around the base of Cape Eternity. This is yet loftier 
than the sister cliff, but it slopes gently backward from the stream, and from foot to 
crest it is heavily clothed with a forest of pines. The woods that hitherto have 
shagged the hills with a stunted and meagre growth, showing long stretches scarred 
by fire, now assume a stately size, and assemble themselves compactly upon the side 
of the mountain, setting their .''erried stems one rank above another, till the summit 
is crowned with the mass of their dark green plumes, dense and soft and beautiful; 



3C1 Route 73. ETEENITY BAY. 

so that the spirit, perturbed by the spectacle of the other cliff, is calmed and as- 
suaged by the serene grandeur of this " (Howells's A Chance Acquaintance.) 

" These awful cliffs, planted in water nearly a thousand feet deep, and soaring into 
the very sky, form the gateway to a rugged valley, stretching inland, and covered 
with the dark primeval forest of the North. I doubt whether a sublimer picture 

of the wilderness is to be found on this continent The wall of dun-colored 

syenitic granite, ribbed with vertical streaks of black, hung for a moment directly 
over our heads, as high as three Trinity spires atop of one another. Westward, the 
wall ran inland, projecting bastion after bastion of inaccessible rock, over the dark 
forests in the bed of the valley." (Bayard Taylor.) 

" The wild scenery of the river culminates at a little inlet on the right bank be- 
tween Capes Trinity and Eternity. Than these two dreadful headlands nothing can 
be imagined more grand and impressive. For one brief moment the rugged charnc- 
ter of the river is partly softened, and, looking back into the deep valley between the 
capes, the land has an aspect of life and mild luxuriance which, though not rich, 
at least seems so in comparison with the grievous awful barrenness. Cape Eternity 
on this side towards the landward opening is pretty thickly clothed with fir and birch 
mingled together in a color contrast which is beautiful enough, especially where the 
rocks show out among them, with their little cascades and waterfalls like strips of 
silver shining in the sun. But Cape Trinity well becomes its name, and is the reverse 
of all this. It seems to frown in gloomy indignation on its brother for the weakness it 
betrays in allowing anything like life or verdure to shield its wild, uncouth deformity 
of strength. Cape Trinity certainly shows no sign of relaxing in this respect from 
its deep savage grandeur. It is one tremendous cliff of limestone, moi-e than 1,500 
feet high, and inclining forward more than 200 feet, brow-beating all beneath it, and 
seeming as if at any moment it would fall and overwhelm the deep black stream 
which flows so cold and motionless down below. High up, on its rough gray brows, 
a few stunted pines show like bristles their scathed white arms, giving an awful 
weird aspect to the mass, blanched here and there by the tempests of ages, stained 
and discolored by little waterfalls in blotchy and decaying spots. Unlike Niagara, 
and all other of God's great works in nature, one does not wish for silence or soli- 
tude here. Companionship becomes doubly necessary in an awful solitude like this." 
{^London Times.) 

When the Flying Fish ascended the river with the Prince of AVales and his suite, 
one of her heavy 68-pounders was fired off near Cape Trinity. •' For the space of half 
a minute or so after the discharge there was a dead silence, and then, as if the report 
and concussion were hurled back upon the decks, the echoes came down crash upon 
crash. It seemed as if the rocks and crags had all sprung into life under the tre- 
mendous din, and as if each was firing 68-pounders full upon us, in sharp, crushing 
volleys, till at last they grew hoarser and hoarser in their anger, and retreated, bellow- 
ing slowly, carrying the tale of invaded solitude from hill to hill, till all the distant 
mountains seemed to roar and groan at the intrusion." 

St. John's Bay (r. bank) is 6 M. below Eternity Ba_y, and is shallow 
enough to afford an anchorage for shipping. It is 2 M wide and 3 M. long, 
and receives the St. .John River. At its end is a small hamlet, situated in 
a narrow valley which appears beautiful in contrast with the surrounding 
cliffs. Far inland are seen the blue peaks of distant mountains. In the 
little cove opposite is the white thread of a lofty cascade. 

The Little Saguenay River (r. bank) is 4 M. below, and flows down out 
of a bristling wilderness where are famous Indian huntirg-grounds and 
pools filled with trout. A short distance below are the islets at the mouth 
of the Rivi6re aux Canards. The steamer then sweeps b}'- the St. Louis 
Isle, a granite rock, ^ M. long, covered with firs, spruces, and birch-trees. 
There is 1,200 ft. depth of water around this islet, in Avhicli are multitudes 
of salmon-trout. On the r. bank are the massive promontories of Cape 
Victoria and Cape George. The * retrospect from this point affords one 
of the grandest views on the river, 2 M. below (1. bank) is seen the inter- 



QUEBEC TO MONTREAL. Route 71 305 

vale? of the St. ^[al'guente Rirer, the chief tributary of the Saguena}', de- 
scending from a hike far N. of Chicoutinii, ani famous for its salmon-fisher- 
ie? (leased). It is a swift stream, flecked with rapids, but is navigable for 20 
JI. by canoes; and flows from a vahiablc region of hard-wood trees. There 
are huts along the strand at its mouth, and vessels are usually seen at an- 
chor here; while far inland are bare and rugged ridges. The tall promon- 
tory beyond this river is seamed with remarkable trap-dikes, of a color 
approaching black; opposite which is the mouth of the St. Athanase. 

Beyond Point Crepe (r. bank) is the deep cove of St. Etienne Bay., afford- 
ing an anchorage, and bordered with narrow strips of alluvial land. The 
steamer now sweeps rapidly down, between immense cliffs, and with but 
narrow reaches of the river visible ahead and astern. Beyond the Passe 
Pierre Isles (i*. bank) it approaches a castellated crag on the r., opposite 
which is the frowning promontory called * Points la Boule, a vast granite 
mountain which narrows the channel to very close confines. From Pointe 
la Boule to Tadousac, the river flows between escarped cliff's of feldspathic 
granite, with an appearance re embling stratification dipping to the S. E. 
Their lofty rounded summits are nearly barren, or at most support a thin 
fringe of low trees; and the sheer descent of the sides is prolonged to a 
great depth beneath the water. 

The vessel calls at L'Anse a V Eau, the little cove near Tadousac (see 
page 299); and soon afterwards steams out into the broad St. Lawrence, 
in the darkness of evening. The next morning, the traveller awakes at or 
iiear Quebec. 

74. Quebec to Montreal. — The St. Lawrence River. 

The river-route is by the steamboats of the Richeheu Company, leaving Quebec 
at evening. It is 69 M. from Quebec to Batiscan, 90 M. to Three Rivers, 135 M 
to Sorel, and 180 M. to Montreal. 

The shortest route by rail between the two cities is the Canadian Pacific Railway, 
along the North Shore. 

Stations. —Quebec to Lake St. John Junction, 4 M. ; Lorette, 8: Passe Para- 
dis, li ; Ste. Jeanne de Neuville, 26; St. Bazile,3U; Portneuf, 35; Descliambault, 
39 ; Lachevrotiere, 42 : Groudines, 45 ; St. Anne de la Perade, 53 r Batiscan, 58 ; 
Champlain, 65; Piles Branch Junction, 75; Three Rivers R., 78 ; Pointe du Lac, 
86; Yamachiche, 93; Louise Yille, 98 ; Maskinonge, 102 ; St. Bartaeleuii, 108 ; 
St. Cuthbert, 111 ; Berthier, 116 ; Lanoraie Junction, 124 ; La Valtrie Road, 129 ; 
L"As.«oraption, 133; L'Epiphanie, 137; St. Henri de Mascouche, 145; Terrebonne, 
149 ; St. Vincent de Paul, 155 ; Montreal, 170. 

Tiip. Grand Trunk Railway runs two trains daily between Quebec and Montreal. 
Stations. — Quebec (Point Levi) ; Iladlow, 2 M. ; Chaudiere Curve, 8 ; Craig's Road, 
15 ; Black River, 20 ; Methofs Mills, 28 ; Lyster, 37 ; Becancour, 41 ; Somerset, 49 ; 
Stanfold, 55; Arthaba.ska, 64; Warwick, 71; Danville, 84; Richmond, 96; New 
Durham, 106 ; Acton, 118 ; Upton, 124 ; Britannia Mills, 130 ; St. Ilyacinthe, 137 ; 
Soixante, 144 ; St. Hilaire, 150 ; St. Bruno, 157 ; St Hubert, 162 ; St. Lambert, 
167 ; Montreal, 172. 

" It could really be called a village, beginning at Montreal and ending at Quebec, 
which is a distance of more than 180 M. ; for the farm-houses are never more than five 
arpents apart, and sometimes but three asunder, a few places excepted." (KALM,the 
Swedish traveller, in 1749.) In 1684 La Hontan said that the houses along these shores 
were never more than a gunshot apart. The inhabitants are simple-minded and 



ST. AUGUSTIN. 

primitive in their ways, tenaciously retaining tbe Catholic faith and the French 
language and customs. Emery de Caen, Champlain's contemporary, told the Hugue- 
not sailors that " Monseigneur, the Duke de Veutadour (Viceroy), did not wish that 
tbey should sing psalms in the Great River." When the first steamboat ascended 
this river, an old Canadian voyageur exclaimed, in astonishment and doubt, " Mais 
croyez-vous que le bon Dieu permettra tout cela ! " 

As the steamboat swings out into the stream a fine series of views are 
afforded, including Quebec and the Basin, the bold bluffs of Point Levi, 
and the dark walls of the Citadel, almost overhead. As the river is as- 
cended, the villas of Sillery and Cap Rouge are seen on the r., and on the 
1. are the wharves and villages of South Quebec and New Liverpool, be- 
yond which are the mouths of the Etchemin and Chaudiere River.-. St. 
Augustin is on the N. shore, 15 M. above Quebec, arjd has a Calvaire, to 
which many pilgrimages are made, and a statue of the Guardian Angel, 
erected on a base of cut stone in front of the church, and commemorating 
the Vatican Council of 1870. 

Near the village is a ruined church dating from 1720, at whose construction the 
Devil is said to harve assisted, in the form of a powerful black stallion who hauled in 
the blocks of stone, until his driver unbridled hiui at a watering-place, when he 
vanished in a cloud of sulphur-smoke. In front of St. Augustine the French frigate 
Atalante surrendered to the British fleet in 1760, after a heroic but hopeless battle ; 
and in the same waters the steamer Montreal was burned in 1857, and 200 passen- 
gers lost their lives 

Pointe aux Trevihles is 3 M. above St. Augustin (N. shore, and is a ship- 
building village of 700 inhabitants. Here many of the ladies of Quebec 
took refuge during Wolfe's siege (1759), and were captm-ed by his Gren- 
adiers. Here also the American armies of Arnold and Montgomery united 
their forces (Dec. 1, 1775) before the disastrous assault on Quebec. Pass- 
ing the hamlet of St. Antoine de Tilly, on the S. shore, the village of Les 
Ecureuils is seen on the N., 7 M. above Pointe aux Trembles, This is 
near the mouth of the Jacques Cartier Eiver, famous for its remarkable 
scenery and for its fine trout-fishing (on the upper waters) On the heights 
near the mouth of the river was Fort Jacques Cartier, to which 10,000 
French troops retreated after the defeat of Montcalm. Nearly a year later 
(June, 1760) the fort was held by the Marquis d' Albergotti, and was bom- 
barded and taken by Eraser's HighLinders. 

6 M. above Les Ecureuils is St. Croix (S. shore), a village of 750 in- 
habitants, with a black nunnery and the public buildings of Lotbiniere 
County. 3 M. beyond (N. shore) is Portneuf. a prosperous little town 
with paper-mills and a large country trade. This seigniory was granted 
to M. Le Neuf by the Cent Associ^s in 1647, and was completely deso- 
lated by the fam'shing French cavalry in 1759.' Beyond this point the 
scenery becomes less picturesque, and the bold ridges of the Laurentian 
Mts. sink down into level lowlands. DeschambavU (N. shore) has 500 in- 
habitants, with a trade in lumber and flour. Lotbiniere (S. shore) is a 
town of 2,500 inhabitants, with a Convent of tlie Bon Pasteur and two 
stove-foundries. Grondines (N. shore) is 3 M. beyond Deschambault, and 



THREE RIVERS. Jioute?4. 307 

has 400 inhabitants; and St. Jean Deschailbns (S. shore) is noted for its 
brickyards. St. Anne de la Perade (N. shore) has a great church, and is 
situated at the mouth of the St. Anne Kiver, whicli is here crossed by a 
bridge 1,500 ft. long. Beyond St. Pierre les Becquets (S. shore) is the 
busy little port oC Bat iscan {^l. shove), with its two lighthouses; Gentilly 
(S. shore) has 600 inhabitants and the Convent of the Assumption; and 
ChampJain (N. shore) has 400 inhabitants. 

Three Rivers {British American Hotel) is a city of 9,000 inhabitants, 
midway between Quebec and Montreal, and at the head of tide-water on 
tlie St. Lawrence River. It was founded in 1618, under the name of Trois 
Rivieres, and played an important part in the early history of Canada. 
The chief buildings are the stately Catholic Cathedral, the Court-House, 
the Ursuline Convent, St. Joseph's College, and the Episcopal and Wes- 
leyan churches. The city has a bank, 2 Masonic lodges, and 4 semi- 
weekly and weekly newspapers (2 of which are French). Besides the 
daily boats of the Richelieu Line, there are 5 steamboats plying from this 
port to the adjacent river-villages. It is connected with Quebec and 
Montreal by the Three-Rivers Branch of the Grand Trunk Railway and 
by the North-Shore Railway, and has buil'^ a ne^^•*liue up the St. Mau- 
rice Valley to Grand Files. There are large iron-works and machine- 
shops here, and stoves and car-wheels are made in great numbers from 
bog-iron ore. The chief industry is the shipment of lumber, which comes 
down the St. Maurice River. The Canadian government has expended 
§200,000 in improving the navigation on the St. Maurice, and over 
§1,000,000 has been invested in mills and booms above. 

The St. Maurice River waters a district of immense (and unknown) extent, 
abounding in lakes and forests. Portions of this great northern wilderness have 
been visited by the lumbermen, whoconduct rafts to Three River.'^, where the lumber 
is sawed. About 22 M. above the city are the noble Falls of the Skawanegan, 
where the great river plunges over a perpendicular descent of 150 ft. between the 
lofty rocks called La Grand' Mere and Le Bonhomme. A few miles above are the 
Falls of the Grand^ Mire. These falls are visited by engaging canoes and guides at 
Three Rivers, while hunting-parties conducted by Canadian voyage urs or Algonquin 
Indians sometimes pass thence into the remote northern forests in pursuit of the 
larger varieties of game. The head-waters of the St. Maurice are interlocked with 
those of the Saguenay. 

Across the St Maurice is the thriving village of Cap de la Magdelaine ; and on 
the S. shore are Becancoitr, the capital of Nicolet County, and St. Angt-L de Laval 
(Doucett's Landing), the terminus of a branch of the Grand Trunk Railway. 

The steamer soon enters Lake St. Peter, a shallow widening of the river 
22 M. long and 8 M. broad. It has a deep and narrow channel (partly ar- 
tificial), which is marked out by buoys and poles, and is used by large 
vessels. Immense lumber-rafts are often seen here, drifting downward 
hke floating islands, and bearing streamers, sails, and the rude huts of the 
lumbermen. In stormy weather on the lake these rafts sometimes come 
to pieces. The inlets along the low shores afford good duck-shooting; and 
enormous quantities of eels and pike are taken from the waters. Near the 



308 Route 74. SOREL. 

E. end of the lake, at the mouth of the Nicolet River, 8 M. from St. Gre- 
p:oire Station, is Nicolet, with 2,500 inhabitants, with a noble college, with 
its 250 students and attractive parks and gardens. On the N, shore is 
Riviere du Loup en haut, or Louiseville, near which are the celebrated 
St. Leon Springs {St. L<on SprliifjS Hotel), reached by daih^ stage from 
Louiseville, in 5 M. St. Frangois du Lac is a pretty village at the 
mouth of the great St. Francis River. The Abenakis House is a well- 
known summer-resort, with valuable saline mineral springs. The route 
fi-o'n Montreal is by rail via Yamaska : or b}- steamer to Sorel. 

On leaving Lake St. Peter, the steamer threads her way through an 
archipelago of low islands, and soon reaches Sorel {Lemonier's), a city of 
6,700 inhabitants, with 3 weekly papers (2 French), a Catholic college, 
several shipyards and foundries, and a large country trade. It is at the 
mouth of the gi-eat River Richelieu, the outlet of Lake George and Lake 
Champlain, whose head-waters are interlocked with those of the Hudson. 
Navigation is kept up between this point and the Lake-Champlain ports by 
the Chambly Canal. The town is regularly laid out, and its broad streets 
are adorned with trees. In the centre is the Royal Square, whose tine old 
ehiis are much admirtid. Sorel is the terminus of the northern division of 
the Southeastern Railwaj^ 

Fort Richelieu was built on this site in 1641, and was re-constructrd and enlarged 
by Capt. Sorel, of the Cariguau Regiment, under orders from Gov. de Tracy (1665). 
In November, 1775, it was occupied by Col Easton. with a strong force of ContiEcn- 
t'd] troops and a flotilla, and this detachment captured 11 sail of vessels, containing 
Gen. Prescott and the British garrison of Montreal. Sorel was for many years the 
sumn;er residence of the Canadian governors, and on being visited by Prince Wil- 
liam Henry of England (afterward King William IV.) an abortive attempt was made 
to change its name to William Henry. 

Berthier en haut is 6 II. above Sorel, on the N. shore (semi-daily steam- 
ers), and is an important manufacturing town of 1,700 inhabitants, situated 
amid rich farming lands. It was the birthplace of M. Faribault, longtime 
a N. W. Commissioner, and founder of Faribault, Minnesota. Back of 
Berthier are the populous towns of St. Cuthbert, St. Norbet, St. Felix de 
Valois, and St. Elizabeth. Lanornle is 9 M. above Berthier (N. Shore), 
and is the terminus of the St. Lawrence & Ii dustry Railway, which 
runs N. W. 12 M. to St. Thomas and Joliette, and thence into ]\Iontcalm 
County. 15 M. above Sorel (S. shore) is Contrecoeur, noted for its maple- 
sugar; and Lavaltrle is 15 M. above Berthier (N. shore), and has 2 
lighthouses. 6 M. above is St. Sulpice (N. shore), beyond which is L'As- 
somption (Hotel Richard), a prosperous village of 2,600 inhabitants. 
Above the N. shore village of Repentigny the N. branch of the Ottawa 
River (Riviere des Prairies) flows into the St. Lawrence, having diverged 
from the Ottawa at the Lake of the Two Mountains. 

Varennes is a pretty village on the S. shore, opposite Isle St. Therese, 
and connected by a ferry with Bout de I'lsle, and witli Montreal (15 M. dis- 
tant) by a daily steamer. It has 825 inhabitants, and manufactures many 



MONTREAL, 



w 



1. Buiispcoiirs Market 

•J. l\wt Ortice 

". Court House . . . . 
... Y. .M. C. A. Building. 
t). St. Ann's- Market . . 
.s. Military School . . . 
y. Dominion Square . . 

CHURCHES. 

10. St. Peter's Cathedral . 

11. Notre Dame . . . . 
iL'. Christ Church Cathe- 
dral 

1.-!. Gesu (Jesuits^ . . . . 
U. St. Patrick's (Cath.) . 

l.">. American 

IC. Trinity 

ir. Xotre Dame de Bonse- 

cours 

St. James (Cath.") . . 
ly. St. George (Epis.-; . . 
•M. St. PaurcPres.) . . . 
"21. Archhisliiip's Palace . 



lUuck Xunnerv . . . E. 5. 

(Jniy Nunnery . . . A. 3. 
Sc'iiiinury ol St. Sulpice E. 5. 

Seminiirv (it I'riests . A. 2. 

St. .Miirv's College . . D. 3. 

MetiiUO'llege . . . C. 2. 

Moist. M's College . . 11.4. 
(ieneral Hospital . E. .S. 4. 

Hotel Dieu E. 1. 

Skating Kink . . . . li. :i. 

Victoiia Square . . . D. 4. 

Place D' Amies . . . E. .">. 

Viger Square .... F. 4. 

Champ de Mars . . . F. 4. 



HOTELS. 

St. Lawrence Hall 
Albion .... 
Grand Trunk R. R 

tion 

C. P. R. R. Station 
AViiidsor Hotei . 




MONTREAL. Route 75. 309 

carriages. The churcli is a large and •stately building, with two conspicu- 
ous towers. 1 ^I, from the village are the celebrated Varennes Springs, 
which are saline in character and possessed of valuable medicinal proper- 
ties. One of them emits great quantities of carbonated hydrogen gas, and 
the other yields 2 -3 gallons a minute, and is much visited by invalids. 
Arrangements are being made to estal)lisli a first-class summer resort at 
this point. Above Varennes is Boucherville. the birthplace of Chief Justice 
Sir Louis Hippolyte Lafontaine. The low and marshy islands otf this shore 
are famous for duck-shooting, and for the ice-dams which form here at 
the close of the winter. Pointe aux Trembles is to the N., on the Island of 
Monti-eal, and is an ancient village dating from 1674. 

" We were gliding past Longueuil and Boucherville on the (left), and Pointe aux 
Trembles, ' so called from having been originally covered with asjjens,' on the (right). 
I repeat these names not merely for want of more substantial facts to record, but 
because they sounded singularly poetic in my ears There certainly was no lie in 
them. They suggested that some simple and perchance heroic human life might 
have transpired there." (Thoreau.) 

Clustering villages are now seen on either shore, and the river is strewn 
with low islands. At 9 M. above Pointe aux Trembles the steamer reaches 
her pier at Montreal, with the magnificent Victoria Bridge spanning the 
river in front. 

75. Montreal. 

Hotels. — *The Windsor, on Dominion Square, in an elevated and quiet part of 
the city, not far from the Mount-Royai Park, is undoubtedly one of the most mag- 
nificent hotels in America. Its aictiitecture is very impo.-;ing, and wituin it has a 
splendid frescoiid rotunda, marble scaircases, an immense dining-hall, and hun- 
dreds of airv and comfortable chMmbpr« v:\^\\ hot and cold water, and all conven- 
iences (83.50-5 a day). The Balmoral is an elegant hoteJ, erected in 1885-86, 
with a graystone front 210 ft. long, on Notre- Dame St. (§2-3 a day). 

St. Lawrence Hall. 13y at. James St., is a comfortable hotel in the centre of the 
city, near the post-office and banks. The AUiioii. 141 McGill St., is frequented by 
country merchants and commercial men. The chief FrtTich hote is the Riche- 
lieu, a" well-kept house on St. Vincent St., :gl.5u-2.50 a day. Hotei-omnibuses 
meet all trains and boats. 

Restaurants. — Alexander's, 391 Notre Dame St. ; Freeman's, 231 St. James 
St.; Compaiirs, 116 St. Fran9ois Xavier St. ; The Bodega, 3)6 Notre Dame St. ; Vic- 
tor's, 145 St. James St. : Waiker's, 372 Notre Dame St. 

Clubs. — Metropolitan, on Beaver Hall ; and St. James, on Dorchester St. 

Amusements. — Theatre Royal, I'J Cotte St., open usually during the sum- 
mer. Operatic and theatrical entertainments, in winter, at the Academy of Music, 
Victoria St iec^i/re.s- are given at the Association Hall, corner of Craig St. and 
Victoria Square. Lectures and other entertainments are also given at the hall of 
the Mechanics' Institute, 204 St. James St. Tlie Victoria Skating Rink, Drununond 
and Dorchester Sts , is famous for its wint<'r carnivals. Lacro.sse, the Canadian 
national game, is plaved at the grounds on Sherbroolce St. We~t and St. Catherine St. 
West. Football, crick:et, golf, bicycling, fox-hunting, racket, lawn tennis, horse- 
racing, tobogganing, snow-shoeing, curling, all have their devotees and their head- 
quarters The Thistle Rink is near the Crystal Palace. 

Readinff-Rooms. — Young Men's Christian As.sociation , Victoria Square; 
Merchants' Exchange. 11 St. Sacrament St. ; Mechanics' Institute, 204 St. James 
St.; Institut Canadien, 111 Notre Dame St.; Union Catholique (20,000 vols.), St 
Mary's Church. 



310 Route75. MONTREAL. 

Post-Office, on St. James St., near St. Francois Xavier St. Telegraph, central 
office of the Montreal Telegraph Company" corner of St. Sacrament and St. Fran9oi8 
Xavier Sts. Monej/. — American and British gold and paper money passes at par, 
but silver is at a discount. 

Carriages. — (One-horse.) For 1 - 2 persons, for 20 minutes, 25 cents; for | 
hr., 40c. ; by the hour, 75 c, and 60 c. for each additional hour. For 3-4 per- 
sons, for 20 minutes, or less, 50 c. ; for J hr., 60 c. ; by the hour, f 1, and 75 c. for 
each additional hour. (Two-horse carriages.) For 1-2 persons, for h hr., or less, 
65 c. ; by the hour, $ 1. For 3 -4 persons, for Jhr., or less, 75 c. ; by the hour, iff 1.25. 
Fractions of hours ch'drged pro rata. The tariff by the hour applies to all rural 
excursions, for which carriagesare engaged in the city. The legal tariff is augmented 
50 per cent between midnight and 4 a. m. Trunks and boxes, 10 c. each 

Horse-cars run across the city on Craig, Bleury, and St. Catherine Sts. ; also 
on St. Mary, Notre Dame, and St. Joseph Sts. ; and out St. Lawrence Main St. to St. 
Jean Baptiste. 

Railways. — To Boston by way of St. Albans, Concord, and Lowell, in 834 M. ; 
or by way of Fitchburg, in 844 M. ; or by the Canadian Pacific. To New York, by 
Rutland and Albany, 365 M. (by Lake Champlain, 405 M.) ; to Quebec, 172 M. (in 
7 hrs.) : to Plattsburg, 63 M. ; to Rouse's Point, 50 M. ; to Toronto, 333 M. (14-15 
hrs.) ; to Detroit (861 M.) and Chicago (1,145 M.) ; to Ottawa, 164 M. 

Stages run out from Montreal in all directions, daily. To St. C^saire, Marie- 
ville, and Chambly ; St. Eustache, St. Augustin, St. Scholastique, St. Columban, 
and St. Canut ; New Glasgow, Kilkenny, St. Jerome, Stanbridge, St. Lin, St. Hip- 
polyte, St. Agathe des Moats, St. Adele, St Janvier, St. Th^rese de Blainville, St. 
Sophie ; St. Vincent de Paul, Mascouche, Terrebonne, and St. Sauveur ; Pointe aux 
Trembles, Sault au Recollet, and St. Martin. 

Steamsliips. — The first-class ocean steamships of the Allan Lir e and the Do- 
minion Line leave Montreal weekly during the season of navigation, for Liverpool. 
The Beaver, Donaldson, Temperlej^, Ross, Thomson, and Great Western Lines 
also run weekly and fortnightly steamships between Montreal and Liverpool, 
Glasgow, London, Bristol, and Newcastle-on-Tyne ; the Canadian and Brazilian, 
to the West Indies and Brazil; the Montreal and Acadian, to !^t. John's, New- 
foundland ; the Hansa Line, to Hamburg and Antwerp ; and the Dobell and Black- 
Diamond Lines, to Cape Breton and Newfoundland. The Richelieu Line runs 
daily steamers to the lower river-ports and Quebec. The morning and evening trains 
to Lachine connect with the steamboats for Ottawa, by way of the Ottawa Kiver. The 
vessels of the Canadia* Navigation Company ascend the St. Lawrence and L ike On- 
tario, from Montreal to the upper river-ports, Toronto and Hamilton. The St. 
ITe'ene and Ottaion make semi-weekly trips to the Bay of Quints. The Quebec 
S. 8. Co. sends a fortnightly steamer from Montreal to Perce, Charlottetown, and 
Pictou The Chdmh'ii runs semi-weekly from Montreal to Vercheres, Contreeoeur, 
Sorel, St. Ours, St. Denis, St. Antoine, St. Charles, St. Marc, St. Hilaire, Beioeil, St 
MatUiias, and Chamblv (flO M.^. The Three Rivers runs semi-weekly to Vercheres, 
Sorel, Maskinongt^, Riviere du Loup en haut, Yamachiche, Port St. Francis, 
Champlain, and Three Rivers. The Berthier runs semi-weekly to Repentigny, St. 
Siilpice, Lavaltrie, Lanoraie, and Berthier. The Terrebonne runs daily to Bou- 
clierville, Vareniies, Bout de Plsle, Lachenaie, L'Assomption, and Terrebonne 
(24 M.). Ferry steamei-s cross the river at frequent intervals to La Prairie, St. Lam- 
bert, and Longueuil. 

Montreal, the metropolis of the Dominion of Canada, and "the Queen 
of the St. Lawrence," is one of the most beautiful cities on the continent. 
It is situated on an island (at the confluence of the Ottawa and St. Law- 
rence Rivers) containing 197 square miles, and which, from its fertility, 
has been called the Garden of Canada. The St. Lawrence is 1^ M. wide 
opposite the city, and the river-front is lined for over 1 M. with lofty and 
massive walls, quays, and teri'aces of gray limestone, unequalled else- 
where in the world, except at Liverpool, Paris, and St. Petersburg. The 
commercial buildings of the city are generally of stone, in plain and substan- 



MONTREAL. Route 75. 311 

tial architecture, and tlie number of line public buildings is very large. 
Three fourths of the population are Catholics, most of whom are Frunch. and 
the bright suburban villages are almost entirely inhabited by Frenchmen. 
Although Montreal is OSl! M. from the sea, it is the port which receives the 
greater part of the importations to Canada; and its manufacturing intcie-ts 
are extensive and important. The admirable systems of railway aii<l 
steamboat communication which centre here, have made it the commercial 
emporium of the North; and new lines of traffic and internal railways 
are being built fnmi year to year, binding all the St. Lawrence counties to 
this city. Montreal forms the Metropolitical See of the Anglican Church 
in Canada, and is the capital of a Roman-Catholic dioce-^e. The water- 
supply, street-lamps, paving, and fire department are similar to those of 
American cities of the first rank. 

The population of Montreal was 216,650, at the census of 1891, and 
there are 60,000 more in the adjacent villages on the island. Of the citi- 
zens, 120.000 are French, 22,000 Irish, and 155,000 Roman Catholics, 
The valuation of real estate is about $125,000,000; its imports in 1880, 
$37,103,809 ; and its exports, § 30,22 J-,904. In the same year 750 vessels 
arrived here from the sea, and the customs revenue is $ 10,000,000. The 
city has 17 banks, 74 churches, and more than 30 newspapers and magazines 
(in English and French). ' There are numerous charitable and benevolent 
organizations, and societies for the English, Scotch, Irish, French, Ger- 
man, and New-England residents. 

Victoria Square is a public ground at the intersection of 3IcGill 
and St. James Sts., ornamented with a fountain and a bronze statue of 
Queen Victoria. On its S. side is the elegant Gothic building which per- 
tains to the Young Men's Christian Association, the oldest society of that 
name in America. On the lower side of the Square are the stately Albert 
Buildinfjs, devoted to commerce- 
Passing to the N. E. along St. James St., the visitor sees m'uiy fine 
stores, and the attractive buildi-^gs of *Molson's Bank (of Ohio stone and 
Scotch granite), the Merchants' Bank, the stately new * Post-Office, and 
other symmetrical and solidly constructed edifices. This street is the 
Broadway of Montreal. St. Peter St. runs to the S E. by the stately 
Caverhill Buildings (of cut limestone in Italian Palazzo architecture) to 
St. Paul St., the seat of an extensive wdiolesale trade. 

Opposite the beautiful Corinthian colonnade of the Bank of Montreal 
(beyond St. Fran9ois Xavier St , the Wall St. of Montreal) the Place 
d'Annes is seen. This square was so named because it was the parade- 
ground of Montgomery's American army in 1775. Here is the lofty front 
of the * Church of Notre Dame, one of the largest churches on the conti- 
nent, with seats for 8,000 persons on the floor and 2,000 in the galleries. It 
is 255^ ft. long and 14-ii ft. wide, and has a chancel window of stained glass 



312 Route 75. MONTREAL, 

64 X 32 ft. in size. The interior is brilliantly and theatrically decorated. 
There are two towers on the front, each 220 ft. high, and, like the church, 
in the simplest form of mediseval Gothic architecture. One tower has a 
chime of bells, and in the other hangs " Gros Bourdon," the largest bell 
in America, weighing nearly 15 tons. The tower is generally open (fee of 
25 c. to the door-keeper), and affords from its summit a noble * view of 
the city and its euAdrons (especially of the city and river, the Victoria 
Bridge, and the islands). The suburbs of Laprairie, Longueuil, and St. 
Lambert, the Lachine Rapids, and the blue mountains of Vermont, are 
seen from this point. Alongside the church is the ancient Seminary of 
St. Sulpice., on the site of the Seminary of 1657, as the church is near the 
site of the Notre Dame of 1671. The present church was built in 1824-9, 
and was consecrated by the Bishop of Telmesse in partibus. The semi- 
nary consists of low and massive buildings, surrounded with gardens and 
court-yards of spotless neatness. It has 24 priests connected with its 
various works. 

" I soon found my way to the Church of Notre Dame. I saw that it was of great 

size and signified something Coming from the hurrahing mob and the rattling 

carriages, we pushed back the listed door of this church, and found ourselves in- 
stantly in an atmosphere which might be sacred to thought and religion, if one had 

any It was a great cave in the midst of a city ; and what were the altars and 

the tinsel but the sparkling stalactics, into which you entered in a moment, and 
where the still atmosphere and the sombre light disposed to serious and profitable 
thought ? Such a cave at hand, which you can enter any day, is worth a thousand 
of our churches which are open only Sundays " (Thoreau.) 

Fronting on the Place d'Armes are several handsome buildings occu- 
pied by banks and insurance companies. A short distance to the 
E., on Notre Dame St., an archway on the r. admits one to the extensive 
and secluded Convent of the Black Nuns (founded in 1657). Farther on, 
the * Court House is seen on the 1., — a stately stone building in Ionic 
architecture (300 X 125 ft.), back of which is the Champ de Mars, or 
Parade Ground, an open space covering 28,800 square yards, and ample 
enough for the display of 3,000 troops. The great structure fronting across 
Craig St. was built for the Dominion Military School, which is now estab- 
lished at Kingston. The costly and splendid new City Hall is on the E. 
side of the Champ de Mars. Just beyond the Court House the Jacques 
Cartier Square opens off Notre Dame St., and is encumbered with a dilapi- 
dated monument to Nelson (erected in 1808), and two Russian guns from 
Sebastopol. Near the head of this square, in the ancient French Govern- 
ment building, is the medical school of Laval University. The building 
dates from 1704, and was the headquarters of the American generals in 
1775-76, and of the British governors until Montreal was decapitalizod. 

By the next side-street (St. Claude) to the r., the * Bonsecours Mar- 
ket may be visited. Tiiis market is unrivalled in America, and is built 
of stone, in quasi-Doric architecture, at a cost of :fi! 300,000. It is three 
stories high, has a lofty d' me, and presents an imposing front to the river. 



MONTREAL. Rinde 75. 313 

Tho curious French costumes and language of the country people who 
congregate here on market-days, as well as some peculiarities of the wares 
offered for s:Ue, render a visit very interesting. Alongside of the market 
is the Bonsecours Church (accommodating 2,000 persons), which was built 
in 1658. A short distance beyond is the Quebec railway station, on the 
site of the extens>ive Quebec-(iate Barracks; and the Victoria Pier makes 
out into the stream towards iSt. Htltn's Isle, formerly a fortified depot of 
annnunition and war materiel, which was named by Champlain in honor of 
his wife. The Isle is now a lovely marine park, with forts and barracks 
still standing, and is reached by a ferry-steamer from Bonsecours ^Market. 
To the X., on Craig St., is the attractive Viger Garden, with a small con- 
servatory and several fountains, fronting on Avhich is Trinity Church 
(Episcopal), built of Montreal stone, in early English Gothic architecture, 
and accommodating 4,000 persons. N. of Trinity, and also on St. Denis St., 
is St. James Church (Catholic), in the pointed Gothic style, with rich stained 
glass. Some distance E. of Dalhousie Square, on St. Mary St., are Mol- 
son's College (abandoned) and St. Thomas Church (Episcopal), with the 
great buildings of Molson's brewery and the Papineau Market and Square 
(on which are the works of the Canadian Rubber Co.). The suburb of 
Hoclielaga (see page 318) is about 1 M. beyond the Papineau Square. 

McGill St. is an important thoroughfare leading S. from Victoria 
Square to the river. Considerable wholesale trade is done here and in 
the intersecting St. Paul St. The Dominion and Albert Buildings are 
rich and massive, and just beyond is St. Ann's Market, on the site of 
the old Parliament House. In 1849 the Earl of Elgin signed the obnoxious 
Rebellion Bill, upon which he was attacked by a mob, who also drove the 
Assembly from the Parliament House, and burnt the building. On ac- 
count of these riots, Montreal was decapitalized the same year. Com- 
missioners' St. leads E. by St. Ann's Market and the elegant Custom- 
Huuse to the broad promenades on the river-walls. Ottawa St. leads W. 
to the heavy masonry of the Lachine-Canal Basins and the vicinity of the 
Victoria Bridge. 

Radegonde St. and Beaver-Hall Hill run N. from Victoria Square, passing 
Zion Church, where the Gavazzi riots took place in 1853. The armed 
congregation repulsed the Catholic assailants twice, and then the troops 
restored oi'der, 40 men having been killed or badly wounded. Just above is 
the Baptist Chui-ch, overlooked by the tall Church of the Messiah (Unitari- 
an), with St. Andrew's Presbyterian Church on the r. A few steps to the 
r., Lagaucheti^re St. leads to St. Patrick's Church, a stately Gothic build- 
ing 240 X 90 ft., accommodating 5,000 persons, and adorned with a spire 
225 ft. high. The nave is very lofty, and the narrow lancet-windows are 
filled with stained glass. Near by, on Bleury St., are the massive stone 
buildings of St. Mary's College (Jesuit; 9 professors) and the * Church 
of tlie Gesti. The nave of the church (75 ft. high) is bounded by rich 
14 



314 Route 75. MONTREAL, 

composite columns ; and the transepts are 144 ft. long, and are adorned 
with fine frescos in chiaroscuro. 

Over the High Altar is the Crucifixion, and the Adoration of the Spotless Lamb, 
above which is the Nativity. Against the columns at the ci'ossing of the nave and 
transepts are statues of St. Mark with a lion, St. Matthew with an ox, St. Luke with 
a child, and St. John with an eagle On the ceiling of the nave are frescos of St. 
Thomas Repentant, the Bleeding Lamb, and the Virgin and Child amid Angelic 
Choirs. Medallions along the nave contain portraits of eight saints of the Order of 
Jesus. Over the Altar of the Virgin, in the 1. tran?ept, is a fresco of the Trinity, 
near which is a painting of St. Aloysius Gonzaga receiving his first communion from 
St. Charles Borromeo, Cardinal Archbishop of Milan. To the r. is a fresco of St. 
Ignatius Loyola in the Grotto of Manresa, and on the 1. is Christ's Appearance to 
him near Rome, while above is Christ blessing Little Children. Over St. Joseph's 
Altar, in the r. transept, is a painting of the Eternal Father : on the r. of which is 
another picture, St. Stanislaus Kostka receiving Communion from Angels. On the 
I. is a fresco of the Martyrdom of the Jesuits at Nagasaki (Japan) ; on the r. is the 
Martyrdom of St. Andrew Bobola, in Poland ; and above is the Raising of Lazarus. 
On the ceiling is, the Holy Family at Work. 

Turning now to the W. on St. Catherine St., one soon reaches * Christ 
Clmrch Cathedral, the best representative of English Gothic architecture 
in America. It is built of Montreal and Caen stone, and is 212 ft. long, 
and 100 ft. wide at the transepts. A stately stone spire springs from the 
intersection of the nave and transepts, and attains a height of 224 ft. The 
choir is 46 ft. long, is paved with encaustic tiles, and contains a fine 
stained-glass window. On either side are elaborately carved stalls for 
the clergy; and the pointed roof of the nave (67 ft. high) is sustained by 
columns of Caen stone whose capitals are carved to represent Canadian 
plants. In front of the cathedral is a monument to Bishop Fulford, and 
on the N. is a quaint octagonal chapter-house, where the diocesan library 
is kept. The residence of the Lord Bishop (and Metropolitan of Canada) 
is near this building. One square E. of the cathedral (corner of Cathcart 
and University Sts.) is the large and interesting Natural-History Ifuseum, 
which is open to the public (fee, 25 c). The Ferrier Collection of P^gyptian 
Antiquities and the cases of Canadian birds are of much intei-est. Farther 
out, back of the Hotel Dieu, is the Crystal Palace. 

McGill University (500 students) is at the foot of Mount Royal, in beau- 
tiful grounds. It was endowed in 1813 and opened in 1821, and has fac- 
ulties of Arts (9 professors), Medicine (10 professors), and Law (8 profes- 
sors). The Medical School is N. of the main building, and the Museum 
is worthy of a visit. The University is under the charge of Dr. J. W. 
Dawson (see page 138), and is the most flourishing institution of the knid 
in Canada, Affiliated with it are the contiguous Presbyterian and Wes- 
leyan theological colleges, and the Congregational and Anglican Diocesan 
colleges. The reservoir for the water-supply of Montreal is back of the 
University, 200 ft. above the river, and has a capacity of 36,500,000 gallons. 
The water is taken from the St, Lawrence, Ih ^1- above the Lachine 
Rapids. A pleasant view of the city may be obtained from this terrace, 
and on the W. is Ravenscrag, the mansion of the late Sir Hugh Allan, 



MONTREAL. Route 7 5. 315 

The * Great Seminary of St. Sulpice and tlic Mimtreal College arc | 
M. S. W. of the University, and front on the same street (Sherbrooke). 
They occupy a portion of the broad ecclesiastical domain which is known 
as the Priests' Farm. The incongruous towers in front of the main build- 
ing pertained to the ancient college of the 17th century, and were at that 
time loopholed and held as a part of the defences of the town against the 
Iroquois Indians. The Seminary is for the education of Roman Catholic 
priests, and has 4 professors and 112 students. The Montreal College is 
for the education of Canadian youth, and has 10 ecclesiastics for profes- 
sors and 260 students. It was founded in 1773 by the Sulpicians, who still 
remain in charge. The Seminary chapel is worthy of a visit, and the gar- 
dens about the buildings are said to be the finest in Canada. Sherbrooke 
St. and the environs of Blount Royal contain many elegant residences. 

Dorchester St. runs S. W. from Beaver-Hall Square, soon crossing Uni- 
versity St., on whose r. corners are the High School and the St. James 
Club. This street leads, on the 1., to the Normal and Model Schools; and 
on the r. to the Natural-History Museum and the Cathedral. Dorchester 
St. passes on by St. Paul's Church (1. side) and the Knox Church (r. side) 
to Dominion Square, which occupies the site of a cemetery. In this 
vicinity are several fine churches, — the Wesleyan Method'st, a gi*aceful 
building in the English Gothic style; the American Presbyterian, an ex- 
act copy of the Park Church in Brooklyn, N. Y. ; and St. George's Church 
(Episcopal), an elegant edifice in decorated Gothic architecture, with deep 
transepts, costly stained windows, a timber roof, and fine school-buildings 
attached. 

The new Roman Catholic Cathedral is at the cor- 

ner of Dorchester and Cenietery.Sts. It is 300 ft. long and 225 ft. wide at the tran- 
septs : and is to be surmounted by a stone dome 250 ft. high, supported on 4 piers 
(each of which are 36 ft. thick) and 32 Corinthian columns. 4 minor domes are to 
surround this noble piece of architecture. The portico is to resemble that of the 
Roman St. Peter's, surmounted also by colossal statues of the Apostles ; and gives 
entrance to the vestibule, which is 200 ft long and 30 ft. wide. The interior colon- 
nades support lines of round arches ; and there are 20 minor chapels. The exterior 
walls are very massive, but extremely plain and rough. This building is to supply 
the place of the Cathedral on St. Denis St., which was burned in 1852. The design 
was conceived by Bishop Bourget, who secured the land, and after inspecting numer- 
ous plans in different styles, determined to erect a cathedral like St. Peter's (though 
smaller). The architects went to Rome and studied the Vatican Ba.^ilica carefully, 
and the work was soon begun. At present strenuous exertion.s are being made by 
the clergy, monks, and nuns to procure the needful funds to finish the buildiug. 

The Bishop''s Palace is on the E. of Dominion vSquare; and Cemetery St. 
runs thence to St. .Joseph's Church and the Bonaventure station of the 
Grand Trunk Railway. Beyond this point is the populous St. Ann's 
Ward, toward the great basins of the Lachine Canal. 

The * Gray Nunnery is nearly ^ ;M. S. W. of Dominion Square, near 
Dorchester St., and occupies an immense pile of stone buildings. This 
convent {VHopital General des Sceurs Grises) was founded in 1747, and 



316 Route 75. MONTREAL. 

contains 202 nuns, 116 on mission, 42 novices and postulants, and over 600 
patients. It takes care of aged and infirm men and women, orphans and 
foundlings, and has large revenues from landed estates. Over 600 found- 
lings are received every year, of whom more than seven eighths die, and 
the remainder are kept in the convent until they reach the age of 12 years. 
Opposite the nunnery is Mont Ste. Marie, a large building which was 
erected for a Baptist college, but has become a ladies' boarding-school 
(169 students) under the Congregational Nuns of the Black Nunnery, who 
have, in the city, 57 schools and 12,000 pupils. This order was founded 
by Marguerite Bourgoys in 1659. 

The Nazareth Asylum for the Blind is N. of the Gesu, on St. Cath- 
erine St., and has also an infant school with over 400 pupils. The chapel 
is built in a light and delicate form of Romanesque architecture, and is 
richly decorated and frescoed. On the same square are the handsome 
stone buildings of the Catholic Commercial Academy. To the E. (on 
Dorchester St.) is the General Hospital, with 150 beds; the Hospice of St. 
Vincent de Paul (30 brethren) and the Asile de la Providence (122 nuns) 
are near Labelle St. ; and numerous other convents and asylums are found 
throughout this singular city, which is both Brit'sh and French, commer- 
cial and monastic, progressive and mediseval, — combining American en- 
terprise with English solidity and French ecclesiasticism. 

The * Hotel Dieu de Ville Marie is about 1 M. N. W. of Great St. James 
St., and is one of the largest buildings in Canada. The chapel is a spa- 
cious hall over which is a dome 150 ft. high, frescoed with scenes from the 
life of the Holy Family. This institution was founded in 1859, and is con- 
ducted by about 80 cloistered nuns of the Order of St. Joseph. There are 
generally about 500 persons in the building, consisting of the nuns and 
their charges, old and infirm men and women, orphans, and about 200 sick 
people. To the N. is the populous French suburb of 8t. Jean Baptiste 
(5,000 inhabitants), which is connected with the city by horse-cars on St. 
Lawrence Main St. 

* Mount Royal Park, along wooded ridge 750 ft. high, covers 430 
acres, and was bought by tlie city in 1874, and laid out by F. L. Olmstead 
Stages run through it every half-hour, starting from the Montreal Post- 
Office, and passing the Windsor (ticket up said back, 25 c.; restaurant on 
summit). A superb view is afforded, including the city and scores of vil- 
lages, the distant Adirondacks and Green Mts., Rougemont and Beloeil, 
and the St. Lawrence and Ottawa and their lakes. 

Point St. Charles is beyond the Lachine-Ganal Basins, and is traversed 
by the tracks of the Grand Trunk Railway. Near the Victoria Bridge is 
a great bowlder, surrounded by a railing, commemorating the place where 
were buried 6,500 Irish immigrants, who died here of ship-fever in the 
summer of 1847. The * Victoria Bridge is the longest and most costly 
bridge in Canada. It consists of 23 spans of 242 ft. each (the central one 



MONTREAL. Route 7 o. 317 

330 ft.), resting on 24 piers of blue limestone masonry, cemented and iron- 
riveted, with sharp wedge faces to the down-current. The tubes contain- 
ing the track are 19 X 16 ft. and the bvitlge is apjiroached by abuttnents 
2,600 ft. long and 90 ft. wide, which, with the 6,594 ft. of iron tubing, 
makes a total length of 9,194 ft. from grade to grade and over Ij M. from 
shore to shore. The bridge was commenced in 1854, and finishetl in 1859; 
it contains 250,000 tons of stone and 8,000 tons of iron, and cost $ 0,300,000. 
There is a beautiful view of the city from the central tube. 

la the early autumn of 1535 .laquos Cartier heard, from the Indians of Quehcc, 
of a greater towu far up the river. The fearless Dretou cliief took 2 boats ;iiid 50 
uieu, ami a^^cended the St. Jjawrence to the Iroquois town of Hochelaga, oceuin iiig 
the present site of the metropolis of Canada. "Before them, wrapped in forests 
painted by the early frosts, rose the ridgy back of the Mountain of Montreal, and 
below, encompassed with its cornfields, lay the Indian town,"' surrounded with triple 
palisades arranged for defence. The French were admitted within the walls and 
rested on the great public square, where the women surrounded them in curiosity, 
and the sick and maimed were brought to them to be healed, " as if a god had come 
down among them." The warriors sat in grave silence while he read aloud the 
Passion of our Saviour (though they understood not a word) ; then presents were 
given to all the people, and the French trumpeters sounded a w^arlike melody. The 
Indians then guided tiieir guests to the summit of the adjacent mountain, whence 
scores of leagues of unbroken forest were overlooked. Cartier gave to this fair emi- 
nence the name of J^Iont Royal, whence is derived the present name of the city. 

In 1603 this point was visited by the noble Champlaiu, but Hochelaga had disap- 
peared, and only a few wandering Algonquins could be seen in the country. The 
Iroquois of the great town had been driven to the S. by the powerful Algonquins 
(such is the Mohawk tradition). 

At a later day a tax-gatherer of Anjou and a priest of Paris heard celestial voices, 
bidding them to found a hospital (Hotel Dieu) and a college of priests at Mont 
Royal, and the voices were followed by apparitions of the Virgin and the Saviour. 
Filled with sacred zeal, and brought together by a singular accident, tnese men won 
several nobles of France to aid their cause, then bought the Isle of Mont Royal, 
and formed the Society of Notre Dame de Montreal. With the Lordof Maisonneuve 
and 45 associates, in a solemn service held iu the Cathedral of Notre Dame dv. Paris, 
they consecrated the island to the Holy i'amily under the name of '' Ville JNIarie de 
Montreal " (Feb., 1641). May 18, 1642, Maisonneuve and his people landed at Mon- 
treal and raised an altar, before which, when high mass was concluded, the i»riest 
said, " You are a grain of mustard-seed that shall arise and grow until its branches 
overshadow the land. You are few, but your work is the work of God. His smile 
is on you, and your children shall fill the land." The Hotel Dieu was founded 
in 1647, and iu 1657 the Sulpicians of Paris established a seminary here. In 1689, 
l,40o Iroquois Indians stormed the western suburbs, and killed 200 of the in- 
habitants, and a short time afterwards Col. Schuyler destroyed Montreal with troops 
from New York, leaving only the citadel, which his utmost efforts could not reduce. 
In 1760 Lord Amherst and 17,000 men captured the city, which then hail 4,000 in- 
habitants, and was surrounded by a wall with 11 redoubts and a citadel. In 1775 
Ethan Allen attacke<i Montreal with a handful of Vermonters, and was defeated and 
captured, with lOJ of his men. Gen. Prescott sent theui to England as " banditti," 
and Allen was imprisoned in Pendennis Castle. In the fall of 1775 the city was 
taken by the American army under Gen. Montgomery. With the close of the War 
of 1812, a brisk commerce set in, and the city grew rapidly, having, in 1821, 18,767 
inhabitants. The completion of the Grand Trunk Railway greatly benefited this 
place, and its increase has for many years been steady, substantial, and rai)id. In 
1832 the cholera destroyed 1,843 persons, out of a population of 30,000 ; and in 1852 
a large part of the city was burned. 80 years ago vessels of over 3ii0 tons could not 
reach Montreal, but a ship-channel has been cleared by the exertions of the mer- 
chants (headed by Sir Hugh Allan), and now the city is visited regularly by ocean 
steamships of 4,000 tons, and by the largfest vessels of the merchant-marine. 



318 Route 76. "AROUND THE MOUNTAIN." 

76. The Environs of Montreal. 

Montreal is situated on the S. E. side of the island of Montreal, which 
is 28 M. long, 10 M. wide, and 70 M. around. It is divided into 10 par- 
ishes, and is composed of fertile and arable soil, supporting a dense pop- 
ulation. The favorite drive is that * "Around the Mountain," a distance 
of 9 M. The road passes out by the Hotel Dieu and through the suburb 
of St. Jean Baptiste (Avhence a road runs E. to the limestone-quarries at 
Cote. St. Michel). At Mile-End the carriage turns to the 1. and soon passes 
the avenue which leads (to the 1.) to the Mount Royal CemeteryT' The 
road ascends to higher grades, and beautiful views open on the N- and W., 
including 13 villages, the distant shores of the Isle of Jesus, and the bright 
waters of Lake St. Louis and the Lake of the Two Mountains. On a clear 
day the spires of the Catholic College of St. Therese are seen, several 
leagues to the N., bej^ond the Riviere aux Chiens. The village of Cote 
des Neiges (three inns) has an antique church, and is occupied by 1,200 
inhabitants. It was first settled by families from Cotd des Neiges in 
France, which derived its name from a legend that a miraculous cruci- 
form fall of snow took place there in August, marking the place on which 
a pious citizen afterwards built the Church of Notre Dame des Neiges. 
From this village the inter-mountain road leads E. to Montreal. On the 
lower slope of Mount Royal a platform has been built on the wall of the 
Seminary grounds, from which a beautiful * view is obtained. (The usual 
charges for the ride around the mountain are $ 1.50 for 2- 3 persons, in a 
cab, or $ 2 for 4 persons ; for a two-horse carriage, $ 4, for 1-4 pei'sons.) 

A road turns to the r. from Cote" des Neiges and passes around the bold 
highlands S. of Mount Royal, through fair rural scenery. Beyond the 
hamlet of Cote St. Luc it reaches Cote St. Antoine, the seat of the fine 
building and grounds formerly known as Monklands, when the home of 
Governor-General Lord Elgin. It is now called Villa Maria, and is occu- 
pied by the black nuns as a boarding-school. There are 25 sisters and 
172 pupils, most of whom are from the United States. Opposite Villa 
Maria is the Church of St. Luc. The short road fi'om this point to the 
city is made interesting by beautiful views and fair villas, and for i M. 
after passing tlie toll-gate it skirts the Seminary grounate. 

The Sault au Recollet is 7 M. W. of Montreal, on the Riviere des 
Prairies, and is frequentlj^ visited for tlie sake of its picturesque rapids. 
Picnic parties occupy the forest-covered Priests'' Tskind, whence the de- 
scent of rafts may be observed. The Convent of the Sacred Heart is 
beautifully situated amid pleasant grounds near the river. Opposite Sault 
au Recollet is the Isle Jesus, which is nearly 25 M. long, and contains 
the villages of St. Martin, St. Rose de Lima, and St. Vincent de Paul (near 
which is the Provincial Reformatory Prison). 

Hochelaga is at the N. E. end of the ]\Iontreal horse-car line. 



LACHINE RAPIDS. Route 76. 319 



It has a good harbor on the St. Lawrence, below the Rapid 
of St. Mary. There are several fine vilhis here, and the * Convent of the 
Sacred Xame of Jesus and Mary is the most extensive monastic institu- 
tion in Canada. Hochehiga is 3 M. from the Victoria Bridge; and 3-4 
M. farther E- is Longue Point, near which the late Sir George E. Cartier 
resided. The river-road gives views of Longueuil, Boucherville, and 
Varennes, on the S. shore. 

Lachine (three hotels) is 9 M. S. W. of Montreal, and is a favorite 
summer-resort of the citizens. The river-road is very picturesque ; and 
the upper road runs through the manufacturing town called Tannery 
West, which has over 4,000 inhabitants. Visitors usually go out on one 
road and return by the other. Lachine is at the foot of Lake St. Louis, 
and is noted for its annual regattas. It was so named by Champlain in 
1613, because he believed that beyond the rapids the river led to China 
{La Chine). In 1689 the Iroquois Indians destroyed the French town here, 
■with all its inhabitants, 200 of whom were burnt at the stake. Opposite 
Lachine is the populous village of Cauyhnaicaga, inhabited by about 500 
of the orderly and indolent descendants of the Iroquois Indians, who are 
governed by a council of seven chiefs. 

The * Lachine ■R^'pids may be visited b}'^ taking the 5 P. M. train to La- 
chine, or the 1.30 p. m. train to St. Anne's (50 cents for the round-trip by 
Lailiine: 80 cents by St. Anne's), where a steamer is in waiting, by which 
the tourist returns through the rapids to Montreal. After taking a pilot 
from Caughnawaga, the steamer passes out. 

" Suddenly a scene of v\-ild grandeur bursts upon the eve. Waves are lashed into 
spray and into breakers of a thousand forms by the submerged rocks which they 
are dashed against in the headlong impetuo-ity of the river. Whirlpools, a storm- 
lashed sea, the chasm below Niagara, all mingle their sublimity in a single rapid. 
Now passing with lightning speed within a few yards of rocks, which, did your ves- 
sel but touch them, would reduce her to an utter wreck before the crash could 
sound upon the ear ; did she even diverge in the least from her course, — if her 
head were not kept straight with the course of the rapid, — she would be instantly 
submerged and rolled over and over. Before us is an absolute precipice of waters ; 
on every side of it breakers, like dense avalanches, are thrown high into the air. 
Ere we can take a glance at the scene, the boat descends the wall of waves and foam 
like a bird, and in a second afterwards you are floating on the calm, unruffled bosom 
of ' below the rapids.' " 

The steamer then passes under the central arch of the Victoria Bridge (see page 
316), and opens an imposing panoramic *view of the city. (Tickets for the round- 
trip cost 50 c. ; and the tourist gets back to Montreal about 9.30 A. m) 

The Beloeil Mountain may be visited in a day by taking the Grand 
Trunk Railway to St. Hilaire, whence the mountain is easily ascended, 
passing a pretty little lake. On this peak (1,400 ft. above the St. Law- 
rence) the Bishop of Nancy erected an oratory surmounted by a huge tin- 
covered cross which was visible for over 30 M. The cross was blown down, 
several years ago. The *view from Beloeil includes a radius of 60 M. over 
the fertile and thickly settled plains of the St. Lawrence Valley, with the 
blue mountains of Vermont far away in the S. E. The Boucherville Moun- 
tain is reached from St. Bruno, a station on the Grand Trunk Railway, 



320 Route 7G, OTTAWA. 

The Iroquois House, on a plateau of the Beloeil Mts., 1,600 ft. high, and 
near a lake 3 M. around, accommodates 400 guests:, at ^3 a day, |? 10-16 
a week. It is 2^ M. from St. Hilaire station on the Grand-Trunk line (25 
M. from Montreal). Boating, bathing, billiards, livery stable, fishing, etc. 

St. Anne {du Bout de Vide) is 21 M. S. W. of Montreal, and may be 
reached in an hour by the Grand Trunk Eailway. It is a village of 1,000 
inhabitants, with two inns, and has an ancient church which is much 
revered by the Canadian boatmen and voyageurs. Manj' of the people of 
Monti-eal visit this place during the summer. The village is at some dis- 
tance from the railway, between Lake St. Louis (of the St. Lawrence) and 
the Lake of the Two Mountains (of the Ottawa Eiver). The Ottawa ip 
here crossed by a fine railway-bridge, resting on 16 stone piers ; and the 
famous Kapids of St. Anne are flanked by a canal. Here Tom Moore 
■wrote his Canadian Boat-Song, beginning: — 

"Faintly as tolls the evening chime, 
Our voices keep tune, and our oars keep time. 
Soon as the woods on shore look dim 
We 'U sing at St. Anne's our parting hymn. 
Row, brothers, row ; the stream runs fast. 
The Rapids are near, and the dayhght 's past. 

" Uttawa's tide \ this trembling moon 

Shall see us float o'er thy surges soon. 

Saint of this green isle ! hear our prayers ; 

0, grant us cool heavens and favoring airs ! 
Blow, breezes, blow ; the stream runs fast, 
The Rapids are near, and the daylight 's past.'' 

Steamers run daily up the Ottawa River to Ottawa {Russdl Hotel), the capital 
©f Canada. The Canadian ** Parliament House is situated on a lofty bluff 
over the Ottawa River, and is the finest specimen of Italian Gothic architecture in 
America or the world. The great * Victoria Tower in the centre of the fagade is im- 
posing in its proportions ; and the polygonal structure of the Dominion Library is in 
the rear of the buildings. The halls of the Senate and Chamber of Commons are 
worthy of a visit, and are adorned with stained-glass windows and marble columns. 
In the Senate is a statue of Queen Yictoria, and near the vice-regal throne are busts 
of the Prince and Princess of Wales. The departmental buildings which flank the 
Parliament House are statelv structures, in harmonious architecture, and of the 
same kinds of stone. The Cathedral of Notre Dame and the nunneries of the lower 
town are interesting; also the new churches of the middle town (which, like^the 
rest of the city, is still undergoing a formative process). The **Clia«diere 
Falls are just above the city, where the broad Ottawa River plunges down over 
long and ragged ledges. In this vicinity are immense lumber-yards, with the con- 
nected industries which support the French Canadians, who form the majority of 
the citizens here. S. of the city are the pretty Rideati Falls. Steamers depart fre- 
quently for Montreal, and for the remote forests of the N. 



INDEX. 



Abattis, P. Q. 292. 
Advocate Harbor 103, 80. 
Aculquac River 54. 
Anislie Gleu 167, li39. 
Albert Bridge, C. B. 154. 
Albert Mines, N. B. 72. 
Alberton, P. E I. 179. 
Albion Mines, N. S. 136. 
AMouin Kiver, tjO. 
Alemek Bav, N. B. 63. 
Alexander Point 63. 
Alexis River 225 
Allairash River. Me. 58. 
Allan. lale, N. B. 52. 
Alright kl. 184. 
Alston Point, N. B. 65. 
Amherst, X. S. 78, 74. 
Amherst Id. 183. 
Ancienne Lorette 2S1, 279. 
Andover, N. B. 54. 
Ange Gardien, P. Q. 283. 
Annandale, P. E I. 182. 
Annapolis Basin, N. S. 84. 
Annapolis Royal 85. 
Annapolis Valley 83. 
Anticosti 2-34. 
Antigonish, N. S. 138. 
Apohaqui, N. B. 71, 48. 
Apple River, N. S, 80. 
Ap.^ev Cove, N. F. 210. 
Aquafort, N. F. 198. 
Ardoi.^eMt., N. S. 93. 
Argentenay, P. Q. 290. 
Argvle, N.S. 116, 125. 
Arichat, C. B. 145. 
Arisaig, N. S. 139. 
Aroostook Valley, Me. 55. 
Arthurette, N. B. 54. 
Aspotogon Mt., N. S. 127. 
Aspy Bay, G. B. 160. 
Athol, N. B. 80. 
Atlantic. Cove, C. B. 160. 
Aulac, N. B. 74. 
Avalon, N. F. 198, 209. 
Avonport, N. S. 91. 
Aylesford, N. S. 89. 
Aylesford Lakes 90. 

Ba^caUeu Id. , N.F. 201 , 205. 
14* 



Baccai-o Point, N S. 123. 
Badtlock, C. B. 162. 
Baddet-k River. 167. 
Bagotville, P. Q. 302. 
Baio des Rochens, P. Q. 295 
Bale St. PauK P. Q. 292. 
Bale Verte, \ S. 74. 
BaUard Bank, The 199 
Ballvhaly Bog, N. F. 195. 
Bangor, Me.' 39. 
Barachois, N. B. 59. 
Bareneed, N. F. 207. 
Barnabv Id., P Q. 250. 
Barra, Strait of 164. 
BarrM Ids., N. F. 210. 
Barrow, N. F. 214. 
Barrington, N. S. 124. 
Barton, \. S. 112. 
Basin ofMinas 101,108. 
Basque Harbor 183. 
Basque Island 251. 
Bass River 81. 
Bathurst, N. B. 65, 61 
Batiscan. P Q. .307. 
Batteau Harbor 225. 
Battery Point, N. B. 68. 
Battle Id., Lab. 224, 200, 203. 
Bav, Argvle, N. S. 116. 

Belleisle, N. B. 42. 

Bonavista, N. F. 203. 

Bonne, Lab 219. 

Bradore, Lab. 2.30. 

Bulls, N. F. 194. 197. 

Canada, N F.221. 

Cardigan, P. E. I. 175 

Conception, N F 195,206. 

De Grave, N. F. 207- 

DuVin,N.B. 61. 

East, C. B. 147. 

Esquimaux, Lab 2.30. 

Eternity, P Q. -303. 

Fortune, N. F. 214. 

Garia. N. F 215 

III Ha, P. Q. .301. 

Ilairs, N. F. 211. 

Ilerniitage, N. F 215. 
I Hillsborough 174, 175. 
• Ingornachoix 219. 

Kennebecasis 4<^. 



Bay, Little, N. F. 215. 

Mahone, N. S. 118, 127. 

Miramichi, N. B. 61. 

Oak, N. B. 34. 

of Chaleur64, 240. 

of Despair 215- 

of Fair and False 203. 

of Fund v 31, 83. 

of Islands 218. 

ofNotreDame, N.F. 210. 

of .St. John 219. 

Placentia, N. F. 212. 

Richmond, P. E. I. 178. 

Roberts, N.F. 207. 

St. Anne's, C. B. 158 

St. George's. N. F. 217. 

St. John's, P. Q 304. 

St. Margaret's 126, 118. 

St. Mary's 112, 213. 

Sandwich, Lab. 225. 

Trinity, N. F. 208, 201. 

A"erd,N. F. 201, 208. 

White, N. F 221. 
Beach, The 206. 
Bear Cove 93 
Bear Point 143. 
Bear River 85. 
Beaubairs Id., N. B. 63. 
Beaulieu, P. Q 289. 
Beaumont, P. Q 254. 
Bean port, P. Q. 276. 
Beaver Bank, N. S. 93 
Beaver Harbor, C. I?. 162. 
Beaver Harbor, N. B. 31. 
Beaver Harbor, N. S. 132. 
Beaver River 114. 
Becancour, P. Q. 3^7. 
Bedeque Bay, P. E 1. 174 
Bedford Basin, N.S 100. 
Bellechas.se Id. 2.54. 
Belieduno, N. B 66. 
Belle Isle 220, 206. 
Belleisle B.y, N. B. 42. 
Bell Isle, N F.221. 
Belleorem, N F. 214. 
Bellivean Cove, N. S. 112 
Belliveau Villasre 73. 
Beloeil Mt., P. Q. 319. 
Benacadie Point 165. * 
U ■ 



322 



INDEX. 



Benmore 280. 
Bersimis River 283. 
Berthier en has 254. 
Berthier en liaut 308. 
Berwick, N. S. 90. 
BicId.,P. Q 251 
Big Loraii, G, B 154. 
Big Tancook Id. 128. 
Biquette, P. Q. 251. 
Birch Point 64. 
Birchtown,N S. 121. 
Bird Island Cove 202. 
Bird Isles 184. 
Bird Hock 161. 
Black Bay 228. 
Black Brook 61. 
Blackhead 196. 
Blackhead Cove 210. 
Black Point, N. S. 122. 
Black River, N. F. 212. 
Black River, P. Q. 295. 
Blancherotte, C. B. 147. 
Blanc Sablon, Lab 229. 
Blandford, N. B. 27. 
Blind Lake, N. S. 126. 
Bliss Id ,N. B. 31. 
Blissville, N. B 49. 
Blockhouse Mines 153. 
Blomidon, Cape 102, 103. 
Bloody Bay, N. F. 203 
Bloody Bridge 79 
Bloody Brook, N. S. 89. 
Blow-me-Down Head 207. 
BlueMts.,N. S. 90,115. 
Blue Pinion, N. F. 214. 
BlueRocks, N.S. 118. 
Boar's Back, N. S. 82. 
Boar's Head, N. B. 40. 
Boiestown, N. B. 47, 62. 
Boisdale 162. 
Bonami Point 67- 
Bonaparte Lake 36 
Bonaventure Id. 243. 
Bonavista Bay, N. F. 203. 
Bonhomme, Le 307. 
Bonne Bay 219. 
Bonne Esperance Bay 230. 
Bonnv, Lab. 230 
Bon Portage Id 124. 
Bonshaw, P. E.I. 174. 
Both well, P. E I. 182. 
Boucherville, P. Q. 309. 
Boixlarderie, C. B. 161. 
Bout de I'Isle 308. 
Bradford's Cove 29. 
Brad ore Bay, Lab. 230. 
Brae, P. E. I. 179. 
Braha, N. F 221. 
Branch, N. F. 212. 
Brandies, The 201 
Brandv Pots 252, 296. 
Bras d'Or, The 161. 
Breton, Cape 149, 154. 
Brilgeport, C. B. 152. 



Bridgetown, N. S. 88. 
Bridgeton, P. E. I. 182. 
Bridgewaterl28, 119. 
Brigg's Corner 49. 
Brighton, N S. 112. 
Brigus, N. F. 207. 
Bristol, N. B. 51. 
Broad Cove, N. B. 29. 
Bread Cove, N. F 203. 
Broad Cove, N. S. 120. 
Broad Cove Intervale 169. 
Brookfleld, N. S. 82, 130. 
Brooklyn, N. S. 93. 
Brookvale, N. B. 48. 
Broyle Harbor 197. 
Brucker's Hill 26. 
Brule Harbor 81. 
Bruuetid 214. 
Bryant's Cove 207 
Buctouche,N. B 59. 
Bull Arm, N. F. 209. 
Bull Moose Hill 41. 
Burgeo, N. F. 215. 
Burgoyne's Ferry 51. 
Burin.N. F.214, 212. 
Burlington, N S 93. 
Burnt Church 62, 63. 
Burnt Head 207. 
Burnt Ridge 202. 
Burton, N. B 43. 
Burying Place 211. 
Butter Pots, The 199. 

Cacouna, P. Q. 296, 252. 
Calais, Me. 35. 
Caledonia Corner 130. 
Calliere, P. Q 295. 
Calvaire, Miq. 185 
Calvaire, P. Q 306. 
Cambridge, N. B 42. 
Cambriol, N. F. 214 
[Campbell River 55. 
Campbellton, N. B. 68. 
Camille, Mt. 249. 
Campobello Id. 25. 
Canaan River 72. 
Canada Bay 221. 
Canada Creek 90. 
Canning, N. B. 43. 
Canning, N. S. 91. 
Canso 142. 
Canterbury 37, 52. 
Cap a I'Aigle 294. 

au Corbeau 292. 

de la Magdelaine 307. 

de Meule 184. 

Rouge 281. 

St. Ignace 253. 
Cape Alright 184. 

Anguille, N. F. 217. 

Ballard, N. F. 213. 

Bauld, N. F. 220. 

Bear 175, 181. 

Blomidon, 91, 102, 103. 



Cape Bluff, Lab. 225. 
Breton, 149, 154. 
Broyle, N. F. 197. 
Canso, N. S 134, 142. 
Chapeau Rouge 214, 189. 
Chatte, P. Q. 249. 
Chignecto, N. S. 104. 
Cove, N. S. 114. 
Cove, P. Q. 241. 
Colombier, P. Q. 233. 
Corneille. 294. 
Dauphin 158, 161. 
Desolation 226. 
Despair, P. Q. 241. 
Diable, P. Q 252. 
d'Or, N. S. 103. 
East, P. Q. 301. 
Egmont, P. E.L 174,179 
English, N. F. 213. 
Enrage, N. B. 72. 
Eternity, P. Q. 303. 
Fogo,N.F. 204, 210. 
Fourchu, N. S. 125. 
Freels, N. F. 203, 213. 
Gaspe, P. Q. 246. 
George, P. Q. 304. 
Goose 294. 
Grand Bank 214. 
Gribaune 291. 
Jourimain 59, 73. 
Kildare 180. 
Labaie 292. 
Lahave, N. S. 120. 
La Hune 215. 
Largent 202. 
Mabou, C. B 168. 
Magdelaine 248. 
Halliard 292- 
Marangouin 73. 
Morien, C. B. 153. 
Negro, N. S. 122. 
Norman, N. F. 220. 
North, C. B. 160. 
Perry. C B. 153. 
Pine, N. F. 213. 
Poi-cupine. N.S. 144. 
Race, N. F 199, 189. 
Ray, N. F. 217, 216. 
Rhumore, C. B. 147. 
Ridge, N. F. 203. 
Rosewav, N. S. 121. 
Rosier 247, 246. 
Rouge 291. 
Sable, N. S. 123. 
St. Anne 249 
St. Francis 201, 225, 301 
St. George 218 
St. Lawrence 160, 170. 
St. Michael 225. 
St. Nicholas 233. 
Sambro 118, 93. 
Smoky, C. B. 159. 
Spear, N.F. 189, 196. 
Spencer 104, 83. 



INDEX. 



323 



Cape Split, N S^104. 

Touriiiente 287, '2o3. 

Touriiientino 5'J, 73, 174 

Traverse 174. 

Triiiitv, V. (j. 3< 3. 

Tivon, r. E. I 178. 

Victoria, V. Q. 3U4. 

We.-t 302. 

Wliittle, Lab. i;30. 

Wolfe 17y. 
Cap. in Cove 198. 
Caraqijctte 6tj. 02. 
Carbouear, N. F. 208. 
Cardiiran, N. B. 50 
Cardigan, P. E. 1. 181. 
Caribacou 145. 
Caribou Id. 175, 224. 
Caribou Plains 80. 
Caribou Point 233. 
Carleton, N. B. 24. 
Carleton, P. Q. 239. 
Carrousel Id. 233- 
Cascapediac Bay 240. 
Cascumpec 180. 
Castle Id., Lab. 227. 
Catalina, N. F. 201. 
Catalogue, C. B. 154. 
Cataracouv 280. 
Cat Cove 221. 
Caughaawaga 319. 
Cavendish, P. E. I. 178. 
Caverne de Bonterups 290. 
Cawee Ids. 233. 
Central Falmouth 91. 
Centre Hill 209. 
Chaleur, Bav of, 64,240. 
Chanicook Mt. 33. 
Cham plain, P. Q. 307. 
Chance Harbor 31. 
Change Ids. 205. 210. 
Channel, N. F 216 
Chapel Id , C. B. 147. 
Charlcsbourg, P Q. 279. 
Charlotteto\vn,P. E. 1.175. 
Chateau Bav, Lab. 227. 
Chateau Bellevue 287. 
Chateau Bigot 280. 
Chateau Uieher 284. 
Chatham, N. B. 61, 66. 
Chaudiere Falls 282. 
Chebucto Head 93. 
Chedabucto Bav 143. 
Chester, X. S. 127, 90. 
Cheticamp, C. B. 170. 
Cheticamp, N. S. 114 
Chezzetcook,N. S. 131. 
Chicoutimi. P. Q. 300. 
Chignecto, Cape, 104. 
Chicrnecto Peninsula 79. 
Chimney Tickle 227. 
Chiputneticook Lakes, N. B 

38. 46. 
Chivirie 93, 102, 106. 
Chouse Brook 221. 



Cibou.\ Ids. 161. 
Clairvaux P. Q. 292. 
Clare, N. S. 113. 
Clarendon, N. B. 38. 
Clemeiitsport, N. S. 85. 
( knientsvale 85. 
Clifton, N. B. 66, 71. 
(.'lode fcJound 'i03. 
Cloridorme 248. 
Clouds, The, 221. 
Clyde River, N. S. 124. 
Coacocho River 231. 
CobequidMts., N. S. 80. 
Cocagne, N. B. 59. 
Colebrooke, N. B. 55. 
Cole's Id. N. B. 47. 
Colinet, N. F. 213. 
Columle 215 
Conception Bav 195, 206. 
Couche, N. F. 221. 
Contrccamr, P. Q. 308. 
Corbin, N. F. 214 
CornwalLs Valley, N. S. 90 

1C3, 107. 
Corny Beach 243. 
Cote'de Beauprr,283. 

des Neiges 318. 

St. Antoine 318. 

St Luc 318. 

St. Michel 318. 
Cottel's Id. 203. 
Coudres, Isle aux 293. 
Country Harbor 133. 
Covehead, P. E I. 181. 
Cow Bay 101,150,153. 
Cox's Point 49. 
Crabb's Brook 217. 
Crane Id , P. Q. 253 
Crapaud, P. E. I. 174. 
Creignish 168. 
Croque N F. 221. 
Cro!?sId.,N. S. 118. 
Cumberland Bay 49. 
Cumberland Haibor 230. 
Cupids, N. F. 207. 

Dalhousie, N. B. 67. 
Dalibaire, P. Q. 249 

Dark Cove, 30. 
[Dartmouth, N. S. 101. 
iDauphinev's Cove 126. 
I Davis Strait 226. 
iDead Ids. 216, 225. 
IDeadman's I.«le 184. 
iDebec .1 unction 37. 
iDebert 80, 105. 
IDeep Cove 127. 
JDeerfield, N S 115. 

Deer Harbor 209. 

Deer Isle, N. B. 25. 

Deer Lake 37. 

Deer Pond 219. 
iDemoisclle Hill 183. 
JDenys River, C. B. 165. 



jDe Sable 174. 
;Descente des Femmes 302. 
iDeschambault SdO. 
iDEscou.sse, C. B. 145. 
I Despair, Hay of, 215. 
Despair, Cape, 241. 
Devil Id. 93. 
Devil's Back, N. B. 41. 
Devil's Goose-Pasture 90. 
Devil's Head 34. 
Diable Bav 228. 
Digby, N.'S. 84. 
Digby Neck 116. 
Dipper Harbor 31. 
Distress Cove 212. 
iDodding Head 214. 
Dollannan Bank 202. 
D'Or, Cape, N S. 103. 
Dorchester, N. B. 73. 
Douce fs Id N B. 34. 
Douglas Harbor 49. 
Douirlastown, N. B. 62. 
Douglastown, P. Q. 244. 
I Douglas Valley 38. 
Dumfries, N B. 52. 
iDundas, N. B. 59. 
Dundas, P E. I. 182. 
Dunk River 174. 

Earl town, N. S. 136. 
East Bay 147, 165, 214. 
Eastern Pa.«sage 93. 
East Point 182. 
Eastport, IMc. 26. 
East River 126, 225. 
Eboulements, Les, 294. 
Echo Lake 131. 
Economy Point 105, 80. 
Eciirei'.iis. Les. 306. 
Eddy Point 143. 
Edmundston, N. B. 57. 
Edoobckuk, C B 147. 
Eel Brook 30. 
Egg Ids., Lab. 233. 
Ekum Sekum. N. S. 132. 
Ellershouse, N. S. L;3. 
Elliot River 174. 
Elm.^dale, N. S 82. 
Ely.«ian Fields, N. S. 79. 
Enfield, N. S. 82. 
Engli.sh Marbor 201. 
English Harbor \Vest 214. 
English Point 233. 
English town, C. B 158. 
Enniskillen, N. B. 38. 
Entry Id. 184. 
Escasoni, C B. 148. 
Escuminac Point 61. 
Esquimaux Bay 230, 244. 
Eternity Bav 303. 
Exploits Id ."205, 210. 
Exploits, River of 210. 
Factory Dale, N S. 89. 
Fairvilie, N. B. 37. 



324 



INDEX. 



Fairy Lake, N. S. 130. 
Falkland, N. S 90,93. 
Falls, Chaudiere 282, 320. 

Ghicoutimi, P. Q. 300. 

Grand 55, 66. 

Grand, N. F.210. 

Grande-Mere 307. 

Lorette, P. Q. 278. 

Magaguadavic 32. 

Manitousin 232. 

Montmorenci 277. 

Nictau, N. S 89. 

North River 105. 

Pabineau, N B. 66. 

Pokiok, N. B 52. 

PoUett 72. 

Rideau, Ont. 320 

Riviere du Loup 295. 

Riviere du Sud 253. 

St. Anne, P. Q. 28:5. 

Sault a la Puce 284. 

Shawanegau 307- 

Sissiboo, N. S. 112. 
Falmouth, N. S. 91 
Farmington, N. S. 89. 
Father Point, P. Q. 250. 
Ferguson's Cove 101. 
Fermeuse, N. F. 198. 
Fern Ledges 24. 
Ferry land, N. F. 198. 
Fish Head 30. 
Five Ids ,N. S. 105, 80. 
Flagg's Cove 29. 
Fleurant Point 67. 
Flint Id., C. B. 1.50,1.53. 
Florenceville, N. B. 53. 
Flower Cove 219. 
Fogo, N. F.204. 
Folly Pass, N. S. 80. 
Forks, The 48, 54. 
Fort Beaubassin 74, 78. 
'Eovt Beausejour 74, 78. 
Fort Cumberland 74, 78. 
Forteau, Lab. 228 
Fort Fairfield, Me. 54. 
Fort Ingalls, N. B. 58. 
Fort Jaques Cartier 306. 
Fort Kent, Me. 58 
F'ort Lawrence 74, 78. 
Fort Meductic, N. B 52, 43 
Fort Nascopie, Lab. 226. 
Fort Norwest, Lab. 226. 
Fortune, N. F 214. 
Foster's Cove 54. 
Fourchette, N. F. 221. 
Fourchu, C. B. 147. 
Fox Harbor, N. S. 103, 81. 
Fo.x H irbor. Lab. 224. 
Fox River 248. 
Framboise, C. B. 147. 
Frazer's Head 104. 
Frederic ton, N. B. 44. 
Frederic ton June. 33. 
French Cross, N. S. 89. 



j French Fort Creek 180. 
French Lake 48. 
[Frenchman's Cove 214. 
(French River 138. 
French Shore, The 216. 
French Village 151. 
Frenchville, Me 57 
Fresh svater Bay 203. 
Friar's Face 26. 
Frozen Ocean 130. 
Funkld.,N. F.204. 

Gabarus Bay 154, 149. 
Gagetown, N. B. 42, 48. 
Gairloch,N. S. 136. 
Gal an try Head 185. 
Gam bo Ponds 203. 
Gander Bav 210. 
Gannet Rock, N. B 29. 
Gannet Rock 184. 
Garia Bay 215- 
Garnish,"N. F. 214. 
Gaspi,P. Q. 244 
Gaspereaux Lake 90. 
Gay '.s River, N. S 82. 
Gentilly, P. Q. 307. 
George IcL 179. 
George's Id., N. S. 98. 
Georgetown,P.E.I.181,175. 
Gibson, N. B. 49. 
Gilbert's Cove 112. 
Glace Bay 153, 150. 
Glengarry, N. S. 136. 
Goat Id., N. S. 85. 
Godbout, Lab. 233. 
Goldenville, N. S. 133. 
Gold River 128. 
Gondola Point 71. 
Gooseberry Isles, 203. 
Goose Id. 253. 
Gouffre, Le 293. 
Gowrie Mines 153. 
Grand Anse, C. B. 145. 
Grand Anse, N. B. 66. 
Grand Banks, The 199. 
Grand Bay 40. 
Grand Digue 145. 
Grande Bale 302. 
Grande-Mere Falls 307. 
Grand Falls, Lab. 226. 
Grand Falls, N. B. 55. 
Grand Greve, P. Q. 244. 
Grand Harbor 29. 
Grand Lake 36, 48. 
Grand Lake Stream 35. 
Grand Manan 28. 
Grand Narrows 164. 
Grand Pond 218, 211. 
Grand Pre 107, 91, 101. 
Grand River, C. B. 147. 
Grand Hiver, N. B. 56. 
Grand River 241. 
Grand-lliver Lake 147- 
Grand Rustico 178. 



Grandy's Brook, 215. 
JGrant'lsle, Me. 57. 
'Granville, N. S. 86. 
Great Bartibog 61. 
Great Boule 233. 
Great Bras d'Or 161, 164. 
Great Codroy 217. 
Great Ha Ha Lake 302. 
Great Harbor Deep 221. 
Great Meccatina 230. 
Great Miquelou 186. 
Great Pabos 241. 
Great Pond 248. 
Great Pubnico Lake 124. 
Great St. Lawrence 214. 
Great Shemogue 59. 
Great Village 81. 
Green Bay 211. 
Greenfield 130. 
Green Harbor 209. 
Green Ids 124, 214, 252. 
Greenly Id. 229. 
Green River 57. 
Greenspond, N. F. 203. 
Greenville 80. 
Greenwich Hill 41. 
Grenville Harbor 178. 
GriRin's Cove 248. 
Griguet, N. F. 221. 
Grimross, N. B. 42. 
Grindstone Id. 183. 
Grondines, P. Q. 306. 
Grosse Isle 254. 
Grosses Coques 113. 
Gull Rock 121. 
Gut of Canso 142. 
Guysborough 133. 

Habitants Bay 143. 
Ha Ha Bay, P. Q. 301. 
Halifax, N. S 93. 

Admiralty House 97. 

Cnthedral98. 

Citadel 93. 

Dalhousie Coll. 98. 

Gov't House 98. 

Harbor 93. 

Hortic. Gardens 98. 

Museum 93 

Parliament Building 95. 

Provincial liuildiug 95. 

Queen's Dockyard 97. 

Y. M. C. A. 96. - 
Halitax, P. K.l 179. 
Hairs Bay 211,218 
Hammond's Plains 100. 
Hampton, N. B. 71. 
Hampton, N. S. 89. 
llantsport. N. S 91,101. 
Harbor Briton 214. 
Harbor BulTot 212. 
Harbor Grace. N. F. 207. 
Harliorville, N. S. 90. 
Hare Bav, N. F. 221. 



INDEX. 



325 



IIaroIcl.,r. Q.252. 
Hiire"t: F,;irs IttS. 
llaros-Ile.ul Hills 218. 
llaiiuuuv, l>. E 1. 182. 
Ilarvi'\ , N. B. oS. 
llarvcv Corner 72. 
Ilaulover Isthmus 146. 
llavelork, N. S. 80. 
IKad ofAiiibcrst 78. 
lloart Kiilgo, N. F. 210. 
Hrarfs Content 208. 
Heart's Deliirht 2(i9. 
Heart's Desire 20y. 
Heart's Ease.N. F. 209. 
Hebortville, P. Q. 300. 
Heliron, Lab. 22l). 
Hei-htsof Land 226. 
Hell Hill 197 
Hermitage Bay 215. 
Herring Cove, N. S. 93. 
Hiirh Beacon 227. 
Ilishland Park 23. 
Hiirhland Village 81. 
IliSli Point 301. 
Hirisborough, N. B. 72. 
Hillsborouirh Bay 174 
Hillsborough River 180. 
Hillsburu 86. 
Ilochelasra, P. Q. 318. 
Hodge- U'ater River 213. 
Holland Bav, 180. 
Holvrood,N.F. 199. 
Holy rood Pond 213. 
Hooping Harbor 221. 
Hope, P. Q. 241. 
Hope All, N. F. 209. 
Hopedale, Lab. 226. 
Hopewell 13G. 
IIope«"ell Cape 72 
Ilorton Landing 91. 
Hculton, Me. 37, 51. 
Howe's Lake 23. 
Hudson's >: trait 226. 
Huniber River 219. 
Hunter River 177, 178 

Indian Bay 167, 203. 
Indian Beach 30. 
Indi m Gardens 130. 
Indian Id., Lab. 225. 
Indian Ids. 210. 
Indian Lorette 278. 
Indian Tickle 225. 
Iridiantown, N. B 47. 
Indian Village 51. 
In!ronish,C. B. 159. 
Intervale 133 
lonclav Hill 197. 
Irish Cove, C. B. 147. 
Ironbound Cove, N. B 49. 
Ironbound Id., N. S. 119. 
Island, Alright 184. 

Amherst 183. 

Anticosti 234. 



Island, Baccalieu,N.F. 201 

Barnaby, P. Q. 250. 

Beaubair's 63 

Bellechasse254. 

Bic, P. Q. -JoO. 

Blaekbill 227. 

Bonaventure243. 

Bon I'ortage 124. 

]5oughtun 175. 

Bouiarderie 161. 

Brands Pots 252. 

Brier il7. 

Brunet 214. 

Br von 184. 

Campobello 25. 

Ca] e Breton 141. 

Cape t^able 123. 

Caribou 175,224. 

Carrousel 233. 

Castle, Lab. 227. 

Catou's 41. 

Cawee 233. 

Chapel 147. 

Cheticamp 170. 

Cheyne 29. 

Christmas 164. 

Cobbler's 203. 

Coffin 184. 

Cole's 47. 

Cottel's 203. 

Crane, P. Q. 253. 

Cro.ss, N. S. 118. 

Dead, N. F. 225. 

Deer 203. 

Devil, N. S. 93. 

Egg, Lab. 233. 

Entry 184. 

Esquimaux, Lab. 231. 

Exploits, N. F. 205,210. 

Fair, N. F. 203. 

Fishflake 227. 

Fly 225. 

Fogo, N. F. 204, 210. 

Foster's, N. B. 41. 

Fox, N B 61. 

Funk, N. F. 203. 

George 179. 

George's, N. S. 98. 

Goat, N. S. 85 

Goo.se, P. Q. 253. 

Governor'.s 175. 

Grand Dune 61. 

Grand Manan 28. 

Grassv, N. B. 41. 

Great Caribou 224. 

Green 124, 201. 220,252. 

Grimross, N. B 43. 

Grindstone 72, 183. 

Grosse 184. 
! Hare, P. Q. 252. 
! Henry 1C9. 
1 Heron 07. 
! Horse 221. 
I Huntington 225. 



sland, Indian 225. 

Ireland. N. F. 215. 

Ironbound 119. 

.laques Cartier 220. 

Kamouraska 252. 

Large 231. 

Lennox, P. E. I. 179. 

Little .Miquelon 186. 

Little Bav 211. 

Locke's, N. S. 121. 

Long42, 101,107, 117,212. 

Lower ."Mu.-eiuasli 42. 

Mc\ab's,N. S. 101,93. 

Ma.lame, P. Q. 254. 

Manger's 43. 

Melville 101. 

IMerasheen 212. 

Middle 43 

Miquelon 186. 

Miscou 64. 

Moose 26. 

Nantucket 29. 

Negro 122. 

Newfoundland 187. 

New World 205. 

of Ponds 225. 

Panmure, P. E. I. 175. 

Park, P E. I. 179. 

Partridge, N. B. 15. 

Partridge, N. S. 102, 103 

Penguin 203. 

Pietou. N. S. 175. 

Pilgrims 2.52. 

Pincher's 203. 

Pinnacle 105. 

Pocksuedie 63. 

Pool's 203. 

Portage 61. 

Priests' 318. 

Prince Eilward 172. 

Quarry 231. 

Quirpon 220. 

Ram 121. 
'Random, N F. 209. 

Reaux, P. Q. 254. 

Red 212, 218, 252. 

Sable 134. 

Saddle 228. 

Sagona 214. 

St. Barbe221. 

St. Paul's 160. 

St. Pierre 185. 

Sandous 40. 

Seal, N. S. 124. 

Sea-Wolf 169. 

Sheldrake 61. 

Shippigan 63. 

Sn.ith's 169. 

Spencer's 103,104,106 

Spotted, N. F. 225. 

Square, Lab. 225. 

Stone Pillar 253. 

Sugar 60, 51. 

Venison 225. 



326 



INDEX. 



Island, Vin, N. B 61 

White Head 29. 

White Horse 31. 

Wolf 184. 

Wood Pillar 253. 
Islands, Battle 224. 

Burnt 215. 

Camp 227. 

Ciboux 161. 

Dead 215. 

Five 105. 

Little St. Modeste 228. 

Magdalen 183. 

Mingan 231. 

Mutton 124. 

Penguin 203. 

Ragged 212. 

Ramea 215. 

Ram'a, N. F. 212. 

Red 147. 

Seal 225. 

Seven, Lab. 232. 

Tancook, N. S. 128. 

Tusket, N. S. 125. 
Isle aux Chiens 185- 

aux Coudres 293. 

Bell, N. F. 221. 

Belle 206, 220. 

Deadman's 184. 

Deer, N. B. 25. 

Groais 221. 

Haute 104. 

Jesus 318. 

Madame 145. 

of Orleans 288. 

St Louis 304. 

St. Therese 308. 

Verte, P Q. 252. 
Isles, Bird 184. 

Burgeo 215 

de la Demoiselle 230. 

Gooseberry 203. 

Passe Pierre 305. 

Peterel 227. 

Twillingate 205. 

Wadham, N. F. 203. 

West, N. B. 25, 31. 

Jackson's Arm 221. 
Jacksonville, N. S. 90. 
Jaques Cartier 306. 
Jebogue Point 125 
Jeddore, N. S. 132. 
Jemseg, N. B. 42, 48. 
Jerseyman Id 145. 
Jesus, Isle 318. 
Jeune-Lorette 278. 
Joe Batt's Arm 210. 
Joggins Shore 80. 
Jolicoeur, N. B. 73. 
Joliette, P. Q. 
Jonquierc 300. 
Judique, C. B. 168. 
Julianshaab, Gr. 226. 



Kamouraska, P. Q. 252. 

Keels, N. F. 203. 
Kegashka Bay 231. 
Kempt Head 162. 
Kempt, N S. 115. 
Kempt Lake, N. S. 90. 
Kennebecasis Bay 40, 22. 
Kenogami, P. Q. 300. 
Kensington 178. 
Kentville, N. S. 90. 
Keswick Valley 50. 
Keyhole, N. B. 49. 
Kingsclear, N. B. 51. 
King's Cove 203. 
Kingston, N. B. 42. 
Kingston, N. S. 89. 
Kouchibouguac Bay 61. 

La Bonne St. Anne 285. 
Labrador 223. 
Lac a la Belle Truite 302. 
Lachine, P. Q. 320. 
La Fleur de Lis 221. 
Lahave River 128. 

ike Ainslie 187, 139. 

Bathurst 211. 

Bear 38. 

Beauport 279. 

Belfry 154. 

Ben Lomond 23. 

Blind 123. 

Catalogne, C. B. 154. 

Cedar, N. S. 115- 

Chamberlain, Me. 58. 

Chesuncook 58. 

Cleveland 57- 

Cranberry 38. 

Croaker's 211. 

Echo, N. S. 131. 

Fairy, N. S. 130. 

French, N. B. 48. 

Gabarus, C. B 154. 

Gaspereaux 90. 

George 51, 90, 115. 

George IV. 211 

Grand 48, 36, 82. 

Gravel 295. 

Great Ha Ha 302. 

Jones 23. 

Kempt 90. 

Lewey's, Me. 35. 

Lily, N. B. 22. 

Little Ha Ha 302. 

Long, P. Q. 58. 

Long, N. S. 82. 

Magaguadavic 38. 

Malaga, N. S. 129. 

Manor, P. Q. 319. 

Maquapit, N. B. 48. 

Metapedia 69. 

Mira, C!. B. 154. 

Mistassini 301. 

]\Ioosehead 58. 

Mount Theobald 71. 



Lake Nepisiguit 55. 

Nictor, N. B. 55. 

Oromocto 38. 

Pechtaweekagomic 58. 

Pemgockwahen 58. 

Pockwock 100. 

Pohenagamook 58. 

Ponhook, N. S 126. 

Porter's 131. 

Port Medway 130. 

Preble, Me. 57. 

Prince William 52. 

Queen's, N.B. 37. 

Quiddy Viddy 195. 

Robin Hood 37. 

Rocky, N. S. 82. 

Rnssignol 130. 

St. Charles 279. 

St. Joachim 287. 

St. John, P. Q. 301. 

St. Peter, P. Q. 307. 

Sedgwick 57. 

Segum Sega 130. 

Sheogomoc 52. 

Shepody, N. B. 72. 

Sherbrooke 90. 

Sherwood, N. B. 37. 

Ship Harbor 1-32. 

S. Oromocto 38. 

Spruce, N. B. 24. 

Stream 49. 

Taylor's 23. 

Temiscouata 58, 295. 

Terra Nova 203. 

Tracy's, N B. 71. 

Tusket, N. S. 115. 

Two-Mile 90. 

Utopia, N. B. 32. 

Vaughan, N. S. 115. 

Washademoak 47, 42. 

Welastookwaagamis 58. 

Wentworth 113. 

Windsor, N. F- 195. 

Winthrop, Me. 58. 
Lakes, Aylesford 90. 

Bras dOr 161. 

Chiputneticook 38. 

Dartmouth 101. 

Eagle, Me. 58. 

Schoodic,Me. 35. 

Tusket, N. S. 115. 
La Manche 197, 212. 
Lance-au-Loup 228. 
Lance Cove 206. 
Land's End, 41. 
Langlev Id. 186. 
Lanoraie, P. Q. 308. 
L'Anse j'i I'Eau 305. 
LaPoile,N. F. 215. 
L'Archeveque 147. 
L'Ardoise, C B. 146. 
Large Id. 231. 
LaScie221,211. 
L'Assomptioii, P. Q. 308. 



INDEX. 



327 



Laval River 299. 
Laviiltrie, P. Q. 308. 
La Vieille 246. 
Lawlor'.-^ Lake 70. 
Liiwreiici'town 89, 131. 
I/izjiretto, Tracadie 02. 
IahI-o. The 35. 
Loi to h field, N. S. 86- 
Lenuox Id. 179. 
Lennox Passage 145 
Les Eboulenicnts 294. 
Les Kcurcuils 306. 
I.i'S Eseouniains 233. 
I/Etantr du Xord 184. 
I/Ehinp dii Savoyard 185. 
1/Ktan- Harbor 31. 
Letite Pas.-^age 32. 
Levis, P. Q 282. 
Lewey'fi Id. 3^3. 
Lewi.^ Cove 47. 
Lily Lake 22. 
Linpan 152, 150. 
Lion"s Back 23. 
Liscomb Harbor 132. 
L-Islet, P. Q. 2.53. 
L'Isletau Massacre 250. 
Little Arichat 145. 
Little Bay Id. 205, 211. 
Little Bras d'Or 161. 
Little Falls 57. 
Little Glace Bay 153. 
Little Ila Ila Lake 302. 
Little Loran 1.54. 
Little Miqnelon 186. 
Little Narrows 167. 
Little Pabos241. 
Little Placentia 212. 
Little Kiver 22. 
Little Rocher 72. 
Little Saguenay 304. 
Little St. Lawrence 214. 
Little Seldom-conie-by 210. 
Little Shemoffue .59. 
Little Tancook 128. 
Liverpool, N. S. 120,130. 
Lobster Harbor 221. 
Loch Alva 37. 
Loch an Fad 147. 
Loch Lomond, C. B 147. 
Loch Lomond, N. B. 22. 
Lochside, C. B. 147. 
Loch Uist 147. 
Locke's Id., N. S 121. 
Logie Bay 195. 200. 
Londonderrv 105. 
LongTd.40; 42. 101,117. 
Long Pilgrim 2.52. 
Long Point 231. 
Long Range 217. 
Ijong Reach 41. 
Long's Eddy 30. 
Longue Point 319. 
Lorette, Indian 278. 
Lotbinifere, P. Q 306. 



Loiiisbourg. C. B. 154, 149. 
Lonp Bay 228. 
Low Point 168. 
Lower Canterbury 52. 
Lower Caraquette 06. 
Lower French Vill 51. 
Lower Horton 107. 
Lower :\liddleton 89. 
Lower Prince William 51. 
Lower Queensbury 51. 
Lower ^\■oodstock 52. 
Lubec, Me 26. 
Ludlow, N. B. 47. 
Lunenburg 118, 128. 



Mabou,C.B. 109. 

Mabou Valley 168. 

McAdam June. 38. 

IMaccan, N. S. 80, 79. 

Place's Bay 31. 

McNab's Id. 101, 93. 

Madawuska 57- 

Magaguadavic River 32. 

Magdalen Ids. 183 

Magdelaine, Cape 248 

Maguacha Point 67, 239. 

Maguudy, N. B. 51. 

Mahogany Road 24. 

Mahone Bay 127, 118. 

Main-i-Dieu 1.50. 

Maitland 82, 105, 129. 

Malaga Lake 1.30. 

Malaiiawdatchkt 165. 

Malbaie, P Q. 294. 

Mai Bay 244. 

Malcolm Point. 61. 

Malignant Cove 1-39. 

Malpeque Harbor 178. 

Manchester, N. S. 1.33. 

Manicouagan 233, 250. 

Minitousin Falls 2.32. 

Maquapit Lake 48. 
JMarchmont280. 

Margarce River 107. 
jMargaree Forks 170. 
iMargaretsvillc 89. 
I Maria, P. Q. 240. 
|5Iarie Joseph 1.32. 
I Marion Bridge 1.54. 
i:Marshalltown 112. 
pfars Head 117. 

Mars Hill 54. 
Marsh Road 22. 

:\Iar,-^hy Hope 138. 
Mascarene 32. 

Masstown 81. 

M.itane, P. Q. 249 

:\Iattawanikeag .39, ,58. 

Maugerville. \. B. 43. 
i:Mealy Mts. 225. 

Meccatina, Lib. 2-30. 

Medisco, X. B. 00. 

IMeductic Rapids 52. 
jMejarmette Portage 40. 



Melford Creek 143. 
Melro.xe, N S 82. 
Melvcrn Sijuare 89. 
Melville Id. 101. 
Melville Lake 220. 
MemranicooU 7-5. 
Merashecn Id. 212. 
Mcrigomish 188. 
Metapedia 09. 
Meteghan.N. S. 113. 
Metis, p {J. 249. 
Middl(! Mus((uodoboit 82. 
Middle Kivcr 103, 10^. 
Middle Simonds, 53 
Middle Stewiacke 81. 
Middleton, N. S. 89. 
Milford, N S. 129. 
Mil ford Haven 133. 
Milkish Channel 4L 
Mill Cove, N. B. 49. 
Mi He Vaches 299. 
Milltown, N. B. 35. 
Mill Village 128. 
Minas Basin 101, 108. 
Mingan Ids., Lab. 231. 
Ming's Bight 221. 
Minister's Face 22. 
Minudie, N. S. 79. 
Miquelon 185, 214. 
Mira Bay 150. 
Mira Lake, C. B. 1.54. 
Miramichi, N. B. 61. 
Miscouche 179. 
Miscou Id. 04. 
Mispcck, N. B. 23. 
Missiguash Marsh 79, 74. 
Mission Point 68 
Mistanoque Id 230. 
Mistassini, Lake 301. 
Moisic River 232. 
Molasses Harbor 1.34. 
Momozcket River .55. 
Moncton, N. B 72. 
-Money Cove 30. 
Montague Bridge 181. 
Montague Mines 101, 131. 
Mont Joli 231. 
Mont Louis 249. 
Montmorenci Falls 277. 
Montreal, P. Q. ,309. 

Bonsecours Market 312. 

Champ de Mars, 312. 

Christ Ch. Cathcd. 314. 

Court House 312. 

Dominion Sq. 315. 

Geolog. Mu.'Jeum 312. 

Gesu Church 313. 

Gray Nunnery 315. 

Great Seminary 315. 

Hotel Dieu 310. 

Institut Canadien 312 

McGill Univ. 314. 

Montreal Coll. 315. 

Mt. Royal 316. 



328 



INDEX. 



Montreal, Nazareth Asyl. 
316. 

New Cathedral 315. 

Notre Dame 311. 

Place d'ArmesSll. 

Post-office 311. 

Seminary 312 

St. Helen's Isle 313. 

Victoria Bridge 316. 

Victoria Square 311. 
Moose Harbor 120. 
Moosepath Park 22. 
Morden, N S. 89. 
Morrell,P. E. 1.182. 
Morris Id. 116. 
Morristown 90, 139. 
Mosquito Cove 208. 
Moss Glen 22 
Moulin k Bauds 299. 
Mount Aspotogon 127. 

Blair 32. 

Calvaire 186. 

Camille 250. 

Cliapeau 186. 

Dalhousie 67. 

Denson 91. 

Eboulements 294, 253. 

Granville 146. 

Hawley 89. 

Hermon Cemet. 280. 

Joli 242. 

Nat 225. 

Pisgah 71. 

Royal 316, 318. 

St, Anne 242. 

Stewart, P. E. I. 181. 

Teneriffe, N. B. 55. 

Uniacke, N. S. 93. 
Mountain, Ardoise, 93. 

Bald, 38, 55. 

Beloeil 319. 

Boar's Back 132, 

Boucherville 319. 

Chamcook 33. 

North 84. 

Salt 168. 

South 84. 

Sugar-Loaf 159. 

Tracadiegash 67, 239. 
Mountains, Antigonish 139 

Baddeck 163. 

Blue 84, 90, 115, 130. 

Cobequid 80. 

Ingonish 161. 

Mealy 225. 

Notre Dame 249. 

St. Anne 287. 

St. Margaret 302. 

Scaumenac 68. 

Sporting 146. 
Mull River 168. 
Murray Bay 294 
Murray Harbor 181. 
Mushaboon Harbor 132. 



Musquash, N. B. 31. 
Musquodoboit 131. 
Mutton Ids. 124. 

Nain, Lab 226. 
Napan Valley 61. 
Narrows The 47, 54. 
Narrows, Grand 164 
Nashwaak 47. 
Nashwaaksis 45. 
Natashquan Point 231 
Natural Steps, The 277. 
Necum Tench 132 
Negro Id., N. S. 122. 
Negrotown Point 15. 
Nelson, N. B. 63. 
Nepisiguit Lake 55. 
Nepisiguit River 65. 
Nerepis Hills, N. B. 41. 
Nerepis River 38. 
Netsbuctoke 225. 
Neutral Id., N. B 34. 
New Albany, N. S. 89. 
New Bandon 66. 
New Bay 211. 
New Bonaventure 210. 
New Brunswick 13. 
Newburgh,N. B. 50. 
New Canaan 48. 
New Carlisle 240. 
Newcastle 49, 62. 
New Dublin 119. 
New Edinburgh 112. 
Newfoundland 187- 
New Glasgow, N. S. 136. 
New Glasgow, P. E. I. 178. 
New Liverpool 282. 
New London 178. 
Newman Sound 203. 
New Perlican 209. 
Newport, N. S. 92, 101. 
Newport, P. Q. 241 
New Richmond 240. 
New Ross, N. S. 90. 
New Tusket 113. 
Niapisca Jd. 231. 
Nicolet, P. Q 308. 
Nictau Falls 89. 
Nlctor Lake 55. 
Niger Sound 227. 
Nimrod, N. F. 211. 
Nipper's Harbor 205, 211. 
Noel, N S. 105. 
North Bay 214. 
Northern Head 30. 
Northfield 129. 
North Harbor 212. 
North Joggius 73. 
North Lake 182. 
North Mt. 84. 
North Point 180. 
North River Fall.? 105. 
North liustico 178. 
North Sydney 151. 



I Northumberland Strait 60, 

174, 239. 
Northwest Arm 100. 
North Wiltshire 177. 
Norton, N. B. 71,42. 
Norwest, Lab. 226. 
Notre Dame Bay 210, 205. 
Notre Dame du Lac 58. 
Nova Scotia 75. 
Nubble Id 31. 

Oak Bay, N. B. 34. 
Oak Point 41, 61. 
Ochre Pit Cove 208. 
Offer Wadham 204. 
Okkak, Lab. 226. 
Old Barns 81. 
Old Bonaventure 210. 
Old Ferolle 219. 
Old Fort Point 158. 
Oldham Mines 82. 
Old Maid 29. 
Old Perlican 209, 201. 
Oldtown, Me. 39. 
Olomanosheebo 231. 
Onslow 80. 
Oromocto, N. B. 43. 
Oromocto Lake 38. 
Orono, Me. 39. 
Otnabog, N. B. 42. 
Ottawa, Ont. 320. 
Outarde River 250. 
Oxford, N. S. 80. 
Ovens, the 119. 

Pabineau Falls 66. 
Pabos, P. Q. 241. 
Painsec June. 72, 59. 
Paps of Matane 249. 
Paradise, N. F. 225. 
Paradise, N. S. 89. 
Parrsboro', N. S. 102. 
Partridge Id., N. B. 15. 
Partridge Id., N. S. 102. 
Paspebiac, P. Q. 240. 
Patrick's Hole 290. 
Patten, Me. 58. 
Penguin Ids. 203. 
Penobscot River 39. 
Penobsquis, N. B. 71. 
Penteco.^t River 233. 
Pepiswick Lake 131. 
PcrcP. Q. 242. 
Perroquets, The 232. 
Perry, Me. 28. 
Perth, N. B. 54. 
Petitcodiac 72,48. 
Petit do Grat 145. 
Petite Boro-cn-onne 233. 
Petite l^issa-v 117. 
Petit M. tis'J^it 
Petty Harbor 197. 
Piccadilly Mt. 7L 
Pickwaakeet 42. 



INDEX. 



329 



Piotou 137. 1G(.>. 
Pietou Id. 175. 
Piljrriui.-=, The 252. 
PiiKher's Id. 203. 
Pinnacle Id., N. S. 105. 
Pirate s Cove 143. 
Pisiuinco Cove 31. 
Pla( entia liav 212. 
I'lains ot Abraliam 280. 
Pla.-tir Cove 143, 168. 
Pleiu-unt Bay 1^3. 
Pleasant Point 27. 
Pleureut^e Point 249. 
Plunnveseep 71. 
Poc-kuiouche, N. B. 62. 
Poeksluiw, N. B. 66. 
Point a Beaulieu 295 
Point Aconi,C. B. 161. 

Amour, Lab. 228. 

u Pique 294. 

au Bourdo 69. 

de Monts 233, 249. 

du ChGne59,60. 

la Boule 305. 

Lepieau 31. 

Levi, P. Q. 282. 

Maquereau 241. 

Miseou, N B. 64. 

Orignaux 252. 

Pleasant 40, 68, 100. 

Prim 175, 181. 

Rich,N. F. 219. 

St. Charles 316. 

St. Peter 244. 

AVolfe, N. B. 71. 
Pointe k la Garde 68. 

■d la Croi.\ 68. 

aux Trembles 306, 309. 

Mille Vaches 233. 

Roches 301. 

Kouge 299. 
Pokiok Falls 52. 
Pollett Kiver 72. 
Pomquet Forks 139. 
Pond, Deer, N. F. 219. 

Grand, N. F 218. 

Red Indian 211. 

Quemo-Gospen 213 
Ponhook Lake 13U, 126. 
Port Acadie, N. S. 113- 
Portage Road, N. B. 61. 
Port au Ba.^que, ^^ F. 216. 

au Choix 219. 

au Persil, P. Q. 295. 

au Pique 81. 

au Port, X. F. 218. 

aux Quilles, 295. 

Daniel 241. 

Elgin, N. B. 73. 
Porter's Lake, >'. S. 131. 
Port Greville, N. S. 103. 

Hastings, C. B. 143- 

Hawkesbury 143. 

Herbert, N. S. 121. 



Port Hill, P. E. T. 179. 

Uood, C. B. 169. 

Joli, N. S. 121. 

Latour, N. S. 122. 

Medwav, N. S. 120. 

Mouton 120 

Mulgr.ive 143, 140. 
Port Neuf, Lah. 233. 
Portneuf, P. Q. 306. 
Porto Nuevo Id. 149. 
Portugal Cove 195, 206. 
Port St. Augustine 230. 
Port Williams 89, 91 
Powder-llorn Hills 212. 
Powual, P. E I. 177. 
Presque Isle, Me. 54. 
Preston, N. S. 131. 
Preston's Beach 61. 
Prim Point 83. 
Prince Edward Id 172 
Princetown, P. E. I. 178- 
Prince William 52. 
Prince William St. 89. 
Pubnico, N. S. 125. 
:Pugsvash81,80. 

Quaco, N. B. 71. 

-Quebec, P. Q. 255. 

! Anglican Cathedral 260. 

Basilica 261 

Cathedral 261 

Citadel 266. 

Custom House 271. 

Durham Terrace 259. 

Esplanade 268 

Gen. Hospital 272. 

Gov.-s Garden 269 

Grand Battery 269. 

Hotel Dieu 266 

Jesuits' College 261 

Laval University 263. 

Lower Town 271- 

Marine Hosp 272. 

Market Sq. 260. 

Martello Towers 270. 

Montcalm Ward 270. 

Morrin College 265. 

N. D. des Victoires 271. 

Parliament Building 263. 

Post-Office 264. 

St. John Ward 269. 

St. Roch 272. 

Seminary 262. 

Ursuline Conv. 264. 
Quemo Gospen 213. 
Quiddy Yiddv 195 
Quirpon.N.F. 220, 
Qnispamsis, X B. 70. 
Q noddy Head 26. 
Ragged Harbor 201. 
Ragged Ids. 212. 
Ramea Ids. N. F. 215 
Ram Id. 121. 
Ram's Ids. N. F. 212. 



Random Sound 209. 
Rankins Mills, N. B. 37. 
Ivapide de Femnie 56. 
Uapids, !^ichine319. 

.Med uc tic 52. 

St. Anne 320. 

St. Marv's 319. 

Terres Rompues 300. 
Ked Bav 228. 
Red Clilfs, Lab. 220, 228 
Red Head, N. F. 200. 
Red Hills, N. V. Iii9. 
Red-In<lian Pond 210, 2n. 
Red Ids 147 
Red Point 182 
Red Rapids, N. B. 54. 
Remsheg, N. S 81. 
Renew^e, N. F. 198. 
Renlrew,N. S. 82. 
Repentigny,P. Q. 308 
Restigouehe River 69, 56- 
Richibucto, N. B. 60. 
Richmond Bay 178. 
Rigolette, Lab. 226. 
Himouski, P. Q 250 
River, Avon, N S. 91. 

Charlo, N. B. 66. 

Denys, C. B. 165. 

Gold, N. S. 128 

Gouffre, P. Q. 292. 

HilLsborough 180. 

number, N F. 219. 

John,N S. 81. 

I^iHave, N. S. 128. 

Louison, N. B. 66. 

Magaguadavic 32. 

Manitou, Lab. 232. 

Miramichi 61. 

Mistassini 301. 

Moisic. Lab. 232. 

Nepisiguit 65, 55. 

of Castors 219. 

Exploits 210. 

Ottawa 320. 

Petitcodiac 72. 

Pliilip, N. S. 80. 

Restigouehe 69, 56. 

Saguenay 297, 2.33. 

St. Anne, P. Q. 286. 

St. Croix, N. B 33. 

St. John, Lab 232. 

St. Lawrence 246, 305 

St. Marguerite 305. 

St. Mary's, N. S. 133. 

St Maurice 307- 
Riversdale, N. S 136. 
River, Tobique 54. 
Riviere k )-Ours301. 

a Mars 302. 

du Loup 295, 252. 

Maheu 290. 

Ouelle, P. Q. 252. 
Robbinston, Me. .33. 
Roberval, P, Q. 301. 



130 



INDEX. 



Robinson's Point 48. 
Rochette, N. B. 66. 
Rock, Perce 242. 
Rockland, N. B. 73. 
Rockport 73. 
Rocky Bay,N. F. 210. 
Rocky Lake, N. S. 82. 
RoUo Bay, P. E. 1.182. 
Rosades, The 251. 
Rose Bay 119. 
Rose Blanche 215 
Rossignol Lake 130. 
Rossway, N. S. 116. 
Rothesay 22, 70. 
Rough Waters 66. 
Round Harbor 211. 
Route des Pretres 290. 
Royalty June. 177. 
Rustico, P. E. I. 178. 

Sabbattee Lake 127. 

Sabimm Lake 124. 

Sable Id. 134. 

Sackville, N. B. 73. 

Sacred Ids. 220. 

Saddle Id. 227 

Sagona Id. 214. 

Saguenay Puver 297. 

St. Agnes, P. Q. 295. 

St. Albans, P. Q. 281. 

St. Alexis 69, 802. 

St. Alphonse, P. Q. 302. 

St. Andrews, N. B. 33, 28. 

St. Andrews, P. E. I. 181. 

St. Andrew's Channel 165. 

St. Angel de Laval 307- 

St^Anne (Bout del'L) 320 

St. Anne de Beaupr6 285. 

St. Anne de la Perade 307- 

St. Anne de la Pocatiere 253 

St. Anne des Monts 249. 

St. Anne du Nord 285. 

St Anne du Saguenay 300. 

St. Anne Mts. 287. 

St. Anne's Bay 158. 

St. Anthony 221. 

St. Antoine de Tilly 306. 

St. Antoine Perou 292. 

St. Arsc-ne 296 

St. Augustin 306. 

St. Barbe 219. 

St. Basil 57. 

St. Bruno 319. 

St. Cecile du Bic 251. 

St. Charles Harbor 227. 

St. Colomb 280. 

St. Croix, P. Q. 308. 

St. Croix Cove>S9. 

St. Croix River 33. 

St. Cuthbert 308. 

St. David's 178. 

St. Denis, P. Q. 252. 

St. Donat, P. Q. 250. 

St. Eleanors, P. E. 1. 179. 



St. Elizabeth, P. Q. 308. 

St. Esprit, C. B. 148. 

St. Etienne Bay 305. 

St. Fabien, P. Q. 251. 

St. Famine, P. Q. 289. 

St. Felicity, P. Q. 249. 

St. Felix de Valois 308. 

St. Fer.'ol, P. Q. 287. 

St. Fidele, P. Q. 295. 

St. Flavie 70, 250. 

St Foy, P. Q. 281. 

St. Francis 58. 

St. Francis Harbor 225. 

St. Frau9ois 290. 

St. Francois du Lac 308. 

St. FranQois Xavier 292. 

St. Fulgeuce301. 

St. Genevieve 219 

St. George, N. B. 32. 

St. George's Bay 217. 

St. George's Channel 165. 

St. Germain de Rim. 250. 

St. Irem5e 294. 

St. Ignace, Cap 253. 

St. Jaques 214. 

St. Jean Baptiste 318. 

St. Jean Deschaillons 307. 

St. Jean d'Orleans 290. 

St. Jean-Port-Joli 253. 

St. Jerome, P. Q. 301. 

St. Joachim 287. 

St. John, N. B. 15. 

Cathedral 18. 

Custom-House 17. 

Gen. Pub. Hosp. 18. 

Harbor 15. 

King Square 16. 

Post-Office 17. 

St. Paul's 19. 

Trinity 17. 

Valley, The 19. 

Wiggins Asyl. 17. 

Y. M. C. A. 16. 
St. John, Lake 301. 
St. John's, N. F. 189. 

Anglican Cathedral 191. 

Colonial Building 192. 

Gov't House 192. 

Harbor 189 

Narrows 191. 

Roman-Catholic Cathe- 
dral 192. 

Signal Hill 193. 
St. John-s Bay 304. 
St. Jones Harbor 209. 
St. Joseph, N. B. 73. 
St. Joseph P. Q. 282 
St. Laurent 290. 
St. Lawrence Bay 160. 
St. Lawrence River 246, 305 
St. Leonard, N. B. 56. 
St. Leon Springs 308. 
St. Lewis Sound 225. 
St. Louis Isle 304. 



St. Luce, P. Q. 250. 

St. Lunaire 221. 

St. Margaret River 233. 

St. Margaret's Bay 219. 

St. Margaret's Bay 126,118 

St. Marguerite River 305. 

St. Martin, P. Q. 318. 

St. Martin's. N. B. 71 

St. Mary's, N. B. 45- 

St. Mary's, N. F 213 

St. Mary's Bay, N F. 213 

St. Mary's Bav, N. S. 112. 

St. Mary's Bay, P E.I. 181 

St. Maurice River 307. 

St. Matthieu 251. 

St. Michael's Bay 225. 

St. Michel 254. 

St. Modeste 296. 

St Norbert308. 

St. Octave, P. Q. 249. 

St. Onesime, P. Q. 253. 

St. Pacome, P. Q 253. 

St. Paschal 252. 

St. Patrick's Channel 167. 

St. Paul's Bay 292. 

St. Peter's, C.B. 146. 

St. Peter's, N. B. 65. 

St. Peter's, P. E. I. 182. 

St. Peter's Bay 227. 

St. Peter's Inlet 165. 

St Peter's Id. 174. 

St. Peter, Lake 307. 

St. Pierre 185, 214. 

St. Pierre d'Orleans 289. 

St. Pierre les Becquets 307. 

St. Placide, P. Q. 292. 

St. Roch-des-Aulnaies 253. 

St. Romuald, P. Q. 282. 

St. Rose de Lima 318. 

St. Shot's, N. F. 213. 

St. Simeon, 295. 

St. Simon 251. 

St. Stephen, N. B. 35. 

St. Sulpice, P. Q. 308. 

St. Th.'rese 318 

St. Thomas, P. Q. 253. 

St. Tite des Caps 287. 

St. Urbain 292. 

St. Valier, P. Q. 2.54. 

St. Vincent de Paul, 318. 

Salisbury, N. B. 72. 

Salmon Cove 201. 

Salmonier, N. F. 213. 

Salmon River 49, 71, 114. 

SaltMt.,C. B 167. 

Salutation Point 174. 

Sambro Id. 117- 

Sandwich Bav 225. 

Sandwich llf'ad 227. 

Sandybeach 244. 

Sandy Cove 116, 112. 

Sandy Point 217. 

Sault a la Puce 284. 

Sault au Cochon 291. 



INDEX. 



:i31 



Sault ail Kecollet 318. 
Sault lie Mouton2o3. 
Scutari, r. B. Io0_. 
Schnodic Lakes 35. 
Scotchtowu, N B. 48. 
Scotch Village 93. 
Sculpiii Point 214. 
Seal Cove, N. B 29. 
Seal Cove, N F. 221. 
Seal Id N. S. 124. 
Seal Ids. 225. 
Sea-Trout Point 175. 
Sea-Wolf Id. Itj9. 
Seeley's Mill.^ 7i; 
Segum-Sega Lakes 130. 
Seldom-come-bv 210. 
Seven Ids., Lab. 232. 
Shag Id. 230. 
Shawanegan Falls 307. 
Shecatica Bay 230. 
Shediac 59, 60, 174. 
Sheet Harbor 132. 
Slu'lburne, N. S. 121. 
Shcpodv Bay 73. 
Shopodv Mt. 72. 
Sherbrooke 133, 132. 
Sherbrooke Lake 90. 
Shininiicas, N. S 78. 
Ship Harbor 132 
Shippigan Id. 63- 
Shoe Cove 211, 221. 
Shubenaeadie 82. 
Sillerv, P. Q. 280. 
Silver Falls, N. B. 22. 
Sir Charles Hamilton' 

Sound, N. F. 203. 
Sissiboo brails 112. 
Skve Glen 1G8. 
Smith's Sound 209. 
Smoky, Cai>e 159. 
Sorel,"P. Q. 308. 
Souris, P. E. I. 182. 
South Bav,N. B. 40. 
South Mt" 84. 
South Oromocto Lake 38. 
Southport, P. E. I. 177. 
South Quebec 282. 
S. W Head 29. 
S. \V. Miramichi 62. 
Spaniard's Bay 207. 
Spear Harbor 225. 
Spectacle Id. 120. 
Spencer-s Id. 103, 104, 106. 
Spencer Wood 280. 
Spiller Rocks 202. 
Split, Cape 104 
Split Rock, ,31. 
Spotted Id. 225. 
Spout, The 197. 
Spragg's Point 42. 
Sprague"s Cove 29. 
Springfield, N B. 42. 
Springfield, N S «9. 
SpringhUl, N. B. 51. 



Spi-ingIIill,N. S. 80. 
Spruce Id. 31 
Spruce Lake 24. 
Spry Bay 132. 
Stanley," N. B 50. 
i Statue Point 303. 
Steep Creek 143. 
Stellarton, N. S. 136. 
Stewiacke 82. 
Stone Pillar 253. 
Storniont, N. S. 133. 
Strait of Barra 164. 
Strait of Belle Isle 220, 227 
Strait of Cans.. 142. 
Strait of Northumberland 

60, 174. 2.39 
Strait Shore, N. F 196. 
Sugar Id 50, 51 
Sugar-Loaf, N. B. 68. 
Sugar-Loaf, N. F. 200, 217 
Summer.side, PEL 178. 
Sunacadie, C B. 164. 
Sussex Vale, N. B. 71. 
Swallow-Tail Head 29. 
Sydney, C. B. 150. 
Sydney Mines 152. 

Tableau, Le 303. 
Table Head 227. 
Table Roulante 243. 
Tabusiniac 61, 62. 
Tadou.sac, P. Q 299. 
Tangier, N. S 132 
Tannery West 319. 
sjTantramar ^larsh 79, 74. 
Tatamagouche, N. S. 81. 
Tea Hill, P. E. I. 177. 
Tedish,N. B. .59 
Temiscouata Lake 58,295. 
Temple Bay, Lab 227. 
Tennant's Cove 42. 
Thoroughfare, The 48. 
Three Rivers 307. 
Three Tides, P. E. I. 174. 
Tiiree Tower.s, N. F. 211. 
Thrumcap Shoal 93. 
Tickle Cove 203 
Tidnlsh, N. S. 78. 
Tignish, P. E. I. 180. 
Tilt Cove 205, 211 
Tilton Harbor 210. 
Toad Cove 197. 
Tobique, N. B. 54. 
Tolt Peak 217. 
Tomkedgwick River 69. ■ 
Topsail, N. V. 206. 
Torbay. N. F. 195, 200. 
Tor Bay, N. S. IM. 
TornientiTie, Cape 174. 
Torrent Point 227. 
Tracadie, N B. 62. 
Tracadie, N. S. 1.39. 
Tracadie, P. E. I. 181. 
Tracadiegash 67, 239. 



Tracy's Lake 71. 
Tracy's Mills, 38._ 
Traverse, Cajie 174. 
Tremout, N. S. 89. 
Trepassev, N. F. 213. 
Trinity, N. F. 201. 
Trinity Bay 208, 201. 
Trinity, Cai>e3(i3. 
Trinity Cove ItlU. 
Trois Pistoles 251. 
Trois Rivieres 307. 
Trou St. Patrice 290. 
Trouty, N. F. 210. 
Truro", N S. 81. 
Trvon. P. E I. 174. 
Tusket Ids. 125, 115. 
Tusket Lakes 115. 
T.veednogie, C. B. 148.- 
Tweedside, N. B. 38. 
Twillingate, N. F. 205. 

Ungava Bay 226. 
Upper Caraquette 66. 
Upper Gagetown 43. 
Upper Musquodoboit 82. 
Upper Queensbury 52. 
Upsalquitch River 69. 
Utopia, Lake 32. 

Van Buren , Me. 56. 
Vanceboi-o, Me. 38. 
Varennes, P. Q. 308. 
Veazie, Me. 39. 
Venison Id. 225. 
Vernon River 181. 
Victoria 53. 
Victoria Line 168. 
Victoria Mines 152. 
Virginia Water 195- 

Wallace Valley 80. 
Walrus Id. 231. 
Walton 106, 93. 
Wapitagun liar. 230. 
Wapskehegan River 54. 
Ward's Harbor 211. 
Washademoak Lake 47. 
Wash-shecootai 231 
Watagheistic Sound 230 
Watchabaktchkt 164. 
Watt June. 37. 
Waverley Mines 82. 
Waweig.N. B. 36. 
Welchpool,N B. 25. 
Wellington 179. 
Wel.sford, N. B. 38. 
Wentworth, N S. 80. 
West Bay, C. B. 165. 
Westchester, N. S. 80. 
Westfield, N. B. 41. 
West Isles 31. 
West Point 179. 
West Port, N. S. 117. 
West River 226. 



332 



INDEX. 



Weymouth, N. S. 112. 
Whale Cove 29. 
White Bay 221. 
White Haven 134. 
White Horse 81. 
White's Cove 49 
Whycocomagh, C. B. 167. 
Wickham, 42, 47. 
Wicklow, N. B. 53. 
Wiggins Cove 49. 



William Henry 308. 
Wilmot Springs 89. 
Wilson's Beach 25. 
Wilton Grove 210. 
Windsor, N. S. 91, 101. 
Windsor June. 82, 93. 
Windsor Lake 195. 
Wine Harbor 133. 
Wiseman's Cove 221. 



Witless Bay, N. F. 197. 
Wolf River 231. 
Wolfville 107, 91. 
Wolves, The 25,31. 
Wood Pillar 253. 
Woodstock 50, 37. 

Yarmouth, N. S. 114, 125. 
York River 174. 



Index to Historical and BiograpMcal Allusions. 



Acadian Exiles 108, 113,131 D'Avaugour, Baron 246 
Annapolis Royal, N S. 86. Dawson, Dr. J. W. 138 
Anticosti, P. Q. 234. 
Aukpaque, N. B. 46. 
Avalon, N. F. 198. 
Bathurst, N. B. 65. 
Bay Bulls, N. F. 197. 
Bay of Chaleur 65. 
Beaubassin and Beausejour 
78. 



Bic Island, P. Q. 250. 
Bras d'Or, C. B. 165. 
Br.'beuf, Pere 266. 
Brest, Lab. 230. 
Campobello Id., N. B. 26. 
Canada, Lower 285. 
Canada, the name of 245. 
Canso, N. S. 144. 
Cape Breton 149 
Cape Breton (old Province) 

141. 
Cape Broyle, N. F. 197. 
Cape Chatte, P. Q. 249. 
Cape Despair, P. Q. 241. 
Cape d'Or, N. S. 104. 
Cape Sable, N. S. 123 
Cape Sambro, N. S. 118. 
Caraquette, N. B. 66 
Carbonear, N. F. 208. 
Cartier's Voyages 193, 204, 

245,272,293. 
Caughnawaga, P. Q. 319. 
Champlain , Samuel de 273. 
Charlottetown, P. E. 1. 176. 
Chateau, Lab. 227. 
Chateau Bigot, P. Q. 280 
Chateau Richer, P. Q 284. 
Chaumonot, Pere 279. 
Chezzetcook, N. S.131. 
Chicoutimi, P. Q. 300. 
Clare Settlements, N. S. 113. 
Conception Bay, N. F. 206. 
Constitution and Guerriere 

200. 
Cote' de Beaupre 276. 
D'Aulnay and La Tour 19, Magdalen Islands 184 

87, 122. iMahoue Bay, N. S, 128 



Dead Islands, N.F. 216. 

Eastport, Me. 27. 

Esquimaux, the 226. 

Ferryland, N. F. 198. 

Fort La Hive, N. S. 119. 

Forts Lawrence and Cum- 
berland 78. 

Fort Meductic, N. B. 52. 

Fredericton, N. B. 46. 

Frontenac, Count de 262, 
273. 

Gasp(5, P. Q 244. 

Gilbert, Sir Humphrey 135, 
193. 

Glooscap 19, 41, 102, 106, 
120, 137, 144. 

Goat Island, N. S. 85. 

Grand Banks 199 

Grand Lake, N. B. 48. 

Grand Manan 28. 

Grand Pre, N. S. 108. 

Guysborough, N. S. 134. 

Haliburtou, Judge 92. 

Halifax, N. S. 99. 

Huron Indians 279, 289. 

Indian Lorette 279. « 

Ingonish,C.B. 159. 

Isle aux Coudres 293. 

Isle of Orleans 288. 

Jemseg, N. B. 42. 

Jesuits, the 261, 266, 275, 
281. 

Fving's College 92. 

Labrador 222, 223 

Lachine, P. Q. 319. 

Lake St. John, P. Q. 301. 

Lake Utopia, N. B. 32. 

Liverpool, N. S. 120. 

Lord's-Day Gale 170, 153, 
185. 

Louisbourg, C. B. 154, 149. 

Lunenburg, N. S. 118. 

Madawaska, N. B. 57. 



Maugerville, N. B. 48. 
Micmac Indians 68, 147,163, 

244. 
Mingan Ids., Lab. 231. 
Miramichi District 63. 
Miscould., N. B. 64. 
Montreal, P. Q. 317. 
Moravian Missions 226. 
Murray Bay, P. Q. 295. 
New Brunswick 14. 
Newfoundland 187, 201, 202, 

204, 222. 
Norsemen, the 123, 204, 245. 
Nova Scotia 76 
Oromocto, N B. 43. 
Passamoquoddy Bay 27. 
Penobscot Indians 39. 
Pere:, P. Q. 243. 
Pictou, N. S. 137. 
Placentia, N. P. 212. 
Pleasant Point, Me. 27. 
Port Latour, N. S. 122. 
Port Mouton, N S. 121. 
Prince Edward Island 172. 
Quebec 272. 
Red Indians 210, 218. 
Restigouche 69. 
Richibucto Indians 60. 
Riviere du Loup 296. 
Riviere Quelle 252. 
Robervals, the 301. 
Robin & Co. 240. 
Sable Island 135. 
Saguenay River 298. 
St. Anne de Beauprt^ 285. 
St. Anne's Bav, C. B 158. 
St. Augustin, P. Q. 306. 
St. Croix Island 34. 
St. Joachim, P. Q.. 287. 
St. John, N. B. 19. 
St. John River 40. 
St. John's, N. F. 193. 
St. Mary's Bay 112. 
St. Paul's Bay 292. 
St. Paul's Island 160. 
St. Peter's, 0. B. 146. ' 
St. Pierre, Miq. 186. 



INDEX. 



333 



Scottish Migration 164 
Sillerv, P. Q. 281. 
Sort'i; P. Q. 308. 
Stniit of Belle Isle 220. 
Svdnev, C. B. 151. 



Tadousac, P Q. 298, 299. 
I'il/jiiry, Wreck of the 148. 
Trepa.«.«ev, N. V 213 
Trois Pistoles, P. Q. 251. 
Truro, N. 8. 81. 



jWalkor's Expedition 233, 

241. 
[Wallis, AdmirallOO. 
Williams, (ion. 1(J0. 
I Windsor, N S. 92. 



Sydney Coal-Miues 153. lUrsulines of Quebec 265. I Yarmouth, N. S. 114. 



Index to Quotations. 



Alexander, Sir J. E. 38, 58. 

Bail lie, T. 43. 

Ballantvne, R. M. 292. 

Beecher, Henry Ward 258. 

Boucher 292. 

Bouchctte, K. 247, 278. 

Bou2:iiuville238. 

Boniivcastle, Sir R. 67, 195, 218. 

Brown, Richard 141, 154, 155, 157, 159, 

166, 233. 
Buies, Arthur 240, 243, 244, 248, 250. 
Cartier, Jacques 204, 246, 288, 298. 
Champlain 124, 273, 295- 
Charlevoix 30, 77, 150, 158, 184, 204, 233, 

238, 247, 289, 293, 299, 300. 
Cozzeus, F. S. 92, 96, 100, 111, 131, 140, 

142, 147, 166. 
Crcmazie. 0. 247. 
Dawson, J. W. 102, 142. 
De Costa, B. F. 28, 29, 30. 
De Mi lie. Prof 105. 
Dilke, Sir Charles 258, 259. 
Dufferin, Lord 237. 
Ferland, Abbe 232, 248, 283. 
Fiset. L J. C 247- 
Gesner, Dr. A. B. 32, 36, 43, 56. 
Gilpin. Dr. 1-34. 
Gordon, Hon. Arthur 51, 52, 53, 55, 56, 

62. 67. 
Grev 247. 

Ilahburton, Judcre 90. 91, 109, 111, 113. 
Hallock, Charle.s^67, 78, 103, 126, 127, 128, 

129, 130, 169, 170, 225, 227, 240, 301. 
Hamilton, 88. 
Hardy. Capt. 129, ISO, 131. 
Hawkins's Quebec 2.56, 259, 261, 272. 
Heriot, George 279, 284. 
Hind, Prof. 232,2.33. 
Howells, W. D. 260, 268, 276, 278, 280, 

281,302,-303. 
Imrav's Sailing i)z>ec«/on573, 158, 169,248. 
Johnston, Prof. J. F. W. 23, 31, 45, 57, 

71, 117. 
Jukes, Prof. J. B. 189, 195, 196, 216, 218. 
Kalni 305. ' 

Kirke, Henry 245. 
La Hontan, Baron 87, 212, 305. 
Lalemant, Pere 249. 



Lannian, Charles 68. 

Le Moine, J. M. 2-58, 264, 280, 294. 

Lescarbot, M. 34, 85, 86, 201. 

London Times 257, 298, 304. 

Longfellow, U. W. 109, 110, 111, 113. 

Lowell, R. T. S 187. 

McCrea, Lt.-Col. 193, 195, 197. 

Marniier, X. 257. 

Marshall, C. 278, 286. 

Martin, M. 154. 

M'Gregor, John 19, 42, 117, 128, 166. 

Moore, Tom 184. 320. 

Moorson, Capt. 116, 118, 122. 

Murdoch, B. 75, 109. 122, 155. 156. 

Noble, Rev. L. L. 30, 91, 103, 141, 160, 

189, 193, 196, 204, 219, 221, 223, 224, 

228. 
Noviis Orbis 125. 
Parkman, Francis 237, 245, 262, 266, 275, 

279, 285, 288. 
Perlev, M. H. 182. 
Ranieau, M. 238, 277. 
Roosevelt, R. B. 66. 
Routhier, A. B. 2-52. 
Sagas of Iceland 123, 204. 
Sand, Maurice 186. 2.56. 
Scott, G. C. 8, 36, 200. 
Shirley, Gov. 274. 
Silliman, Prof 238, 257, 267, 277. 
Stedman. R. II. 170. 
Strauss, 231 

Sutherland, Rev. George 178, 180. 
Tache 251. 299. 
Taylor's Canadian Handbook 242, 248, 

251, 282, .319. 
Tavlor, Bayard 277, 291, 292, 293, 297, 

' 304. 
Thoreau, H. D. 237, 238, 246, 257, 267, 

276, 277, 283, 284, 287, 309, 312. 
Trudelle 292. 
Voltaire 274. 

Warburton, Eliot 190, 195, 234, 256. 
Warner, Charles Dudley, 20, 25, 26, 84, 

86, 91, 92, 95, 107, 138, 140, 158, 162, 

165, 166, 167, 168, 175, 176, 179. 
Whitburne, Capt 187. 
White, John, 278, 298, 303. 
Whittier, John G. 21, 65, 209, 224, 230. 



334 INDEX. 

Index to Railways and Steamboat Lines. 



European and North American 37. 

Grand Trunk 305. 

Intercolonial 70, 78. 

New Brunswick 49. 

New Brunswick and Canada 33. 



Basin of Minas 101. 
Bras d'Or, 161. 
Conception Bay (N. F.) 206. 
Eastport 25. 
Grand Lake 48. 
Halifax to Sydney 148. 
Labrador 224. 
Magdalen Islands 183. 
Moisic River (Labrador) 229. 
Newfoundland 188, 148. 
Northern Coastal (N. F.) 200. 
North Shore (N. B.)60. 



Pictou Branch 136. 

Prince Edward Island 177, 180, 182. 

Quebec and Gosford 255. 

Shediac Branch 59. 

Windsor and Annapolis 83. 



Passamaquoddy Bay 25, 30. 
Prince Edward Island 174, 175. 
Quebec and Gulf Ports 238, 60. 
Quebec to Cacouna 291. 
Richelieu (St. Lawrence) 305. 
Sag'uenay River 291, 297. 
St. John River 39, 51, 53. 
St. Pierre (Miq. ) 185. 
Union (St. Lawrence) 305. 
Washademoak Lake 47. 
Western Outports 213. 
Yarmouth and Halifax 117. 



Authorities Consulted in tlie Preparation of this Volume. 

The Editor acknowledges his obligations to the ofiicers of the Boston Athenjeum, 
the Parliament Library at Halifax, the Colonial Librar3^ at Charlottetown, the Me- 
chanics' Institute at St. John, and the libraries of Parliament, of the Laval Uni- 
versity, of the Institut Canadien, and of the Literary and Historical Society, of 
Quebec. 

New Brunswick, with Notes for Emigrants ; by Abraham Gesner, M. D. (1847.) 

Geology of New Brunswick, etc. ; by Dr. Gesner. 

New Brunswick and its Scenery ; by Jno. R. Hamilton. (St. John, 1874.) 

Account of New Brunswick ; by Thomas Baillie. (London, 1832.) 

Handbook for Emigrants to New Brunswick; by M. H. Perley. (St. John, 1854.) 

Mount Desert ; by B. F. De Costa. (New York.) 

History of New Brunswick ; by Cooney. 

Nouveau Brunswick ; by E. Regnault. (Paris.) 

History of Maine ; by James Sullivan, LL. D. (1795.) 
History of Maine ; by W. D. Williamson. (2 vols. ; 1839 ) 
Transactions of the Maine Historical Society. 

Letters from Nova Scotia ; by Captain Moorson. (London, 1830.) 

Travels in Nova Scotia and New Brunswick ; by J. S. Buckingham, M. P. 

Forest Life in Acadie; by Capt. Campbell Hardy. (London.) 

The Fishing Tourist ; by Charles Hallock. (New York, 1873.) 

Acadia ; or A Month among the Bluenoses ; by Frederick S. Cozzens. (New York, 

1859.) 
The Neutral French ; a Story of Nova Scotia. 
The Lily and the Cross ; by Prof De Mille. 
The Boys of Grand Pre School : by Prof. De Mille. 
The Clock-Maker ; by Judge T. C. Haliburton. 
The Old .Judge; by Judge T. C. HaUburton. 

The Pre-Columbian Discovery of America; by B. F. De Costa. (New York.) 
Acadian Geology ; by J. W. Dawson, LL. D., F. R. S. (Halifax, 1855.) 
On the Mineralogy and Geology of Nova Scotia1( by Dr. A. Gesnor. 
An Historical and Statistical Account of Nova Scotia; by T. C. Haliburton, D. C. L., 

M. P. (2 vols. ; Hahfax, 1829.) 
History of Nova Scotia, or Acadie; by Beamish Murdoch, Q. C (3 vols. ; Halifax, 

1865.) 
A General Description of Nova Scotia. (Halifax, 1823.) 
Account of the Present State of Nova Scotia. (Edinburgh, 1786.) 



INDEX. 335 

A Flistorv of the Island of Cape Breton ; bj- Richard Brown, F. G. S , F. U G. S. 

(London, 1869.) 
Importance and Advautapjes of Cape Breton ; by Wm. Bollan. (London, 174G.) 
Letters on Cape Breton ; by Thomas Pichou. (London, ITtiO.) 
Baddeek, and that Sort of Thing ; by Charles Dudley Warner. (Boston, 1874.) 

Prince Edward Island ; by Rev. George Sutherland. (Charlottetown, 1861.) 
Progress and Prospects of Prince Edward Island ; by C. B. Bagster. (Charlottetown, 

1861.) 
Travels in Prince Edward Island ; by Walter Johnstone. (Edinburgh, 1824.) 

A Concise History of Newfoundland ; by F. R. Page. (London, I860.) 

History of the Government of Newfoundland ; by Chief Justice John Reeve. (Loa- 

ddn, 1793 ) 
Catechism of the History of Newfoundland ; by W. C. St. John. (Boston, 1855.) 
Pedley's History of Newfoundland. 
Anspach's History of Newfoundland. 

Newfoundland in 1842 : hv Sir R H. Bonnvcastle (2 vols. ; London, 1842.) 
Voyage of H. M. S RosaitW)KL- by Lieut. Chappell, R. N. (London, 1818.) 
Lost amid the Fogs; by Lieut.-Col. McCrea, Royal Artillery. (London, 1869.) 
The New Priest of Conception Bay ; by R. T. S. Lowell. (Boston, 1838.) 
Excursions in and about Newfoundland by Prof. J. B. Jukes. (2 vols. ; London, 

1842.) 
Geolo'JTical Survey of Newfoundland for 1873 ; by Alex. Murray, F. G. S. (St. John's, 

1S74.) 
After Icebergs with a Painter ; by Rev. L. L. Noble. (New York, 1860.) 

A Voyage to Labrador ; by L'Abbe Ferland. (Quebec. 1 

Notes on the Coast of Labrador ; by Robertson. (Quebec.) 

Explorations in the Interior of the Labrador Peninsula ; by Prof. II. Y. Hind, F. R. 

G. S. (2 vols. ; London, 1863.) 
Sixteen Years' Residence on the Coast of Labrador; by George Cartwright. (3 vols. ; 

Newark, 1792.) 
A Summer Cruise to Labrador ; by Charles Hallock. In Harper's Magazine, Vol. 

xxn. 

History and General Description of New France ; by Father P. F. X. Charlevoix. (6 
vols. ; in Shea's translation ; New York, 1872.) 

Histoire de la Nouvelle France : by Marc Lcscarbot. (1609 ; Paris, 1866 ; 3 vols.) 

Cours d'llistoire du Canada ; by L'Abb6 Ferland. 

Histoire de la Colonie Francaise en Canada ; by M. Faillon. (3 vols. ; Ville-Marie [Mon- 
treal]. 1865-6). 

History of Canada : by F. X. Gameau. (Bell's translation ; Montreal, 1866.) 

History of Canada ; by John MacMullen. (Brockville, 1868.) 

Novus Orbis ; by Johannes de Laet. (Leyden, 1633.) 

Les Relations des Jesuits. 

Lower Canada ; by Joseph Bouchette. (London, 1815.) 

British Dominions in North America: by Joseph Bouchette (2 vols. ; London, 1832.) 

British America : by John M'Gregor. (2 vols. ; London, 1832.) 

La France aux Colonies ; by M Ilameau. (Paris, 1859.) 

Le Canada au Point de Vue Economique ; by Louis Strauss. (Paris, 1867.) 

Hochelaga, or England in the New World ; by Eliot Warburton. (2 vols. ; New York, 
1846.) 

The Conquest of Canada; by Eliot Warburton. (2 vols. ; Loudon, 1849.) 

The First Engli.sh Conquest of Canada ; by Uenrv' Kirke. (London, 1871.) 

The Pioneers of France in the New World ; by Francis Parkman. (Boston, 1865.) 

The Jesuits of North America ; by Fnmcis Parkman. 

The Old Regime in Canada ; by Francis Parkman. (Bo.ston. 1874.) 

Histoire du Canada : by Gabriel Sagard. (4 vols : Paris, 186'j.) 

Sketches of Celebrated Canadians ; by Henry J. Morgan. (Montreal, 1865.) 

Hawkins's New Picture of Quebec! (Quebec, 1834.) 

Reminiscences of Quebec. (Quebec, 1858.) 

Decouverte du Tombeau de Cham plain ; by Laverdiere and Casgrain. (Quebec, 1866.) 

Maple Leaves ; by J. M. Le Moine. (Quebec.) 



336 INDEX. I 

Letters sur I'Amerique ; by X. Marmier. (Paris.) 

Account of a Journey between Hartford and Quebec ; by Prof. B. Silliman. (1820.', 

Taylor's Canadian Handbook. (Montreal.) 

English America ; by S. P. Day. (2 vols ; London, 1864.) 

Three Years in Canada ; by John MacTaggart. (2 vols. ; London, 1829.) 

Western Wanderings; by W. H. G. Kingston (2 vols. ; London, 1856.) ! 

Sketches of Lower Canada ; by Joseph Sanson. (New York, 1817.) il 

The Canadian Dominion ; by Charles Marshall. (London, 1871.) -f 

Five Years' Residence in the Canadas ; by E. A. Talbot. (2 vols. ; London, 1824.) \ 

Sketches from America ; by John White. (London, 1870.) | 

Travels through the Canadas ; by George Heriot. (London, 1807.) 

British Possessions ; by M. Smith. (Baltimore, 1814.) | 

Adventures in the Wilds of America ; by Charles Lanman. (2 vols. ; Philadelphia, 

1856.) ' 

Pine-Forests ; by Lieut -Col. Sleigh. (London, 1853.) | 

The travels of Hall, Lyell, Trollope, Dickens, Johnston, etc. ' 

Bref Recit et Succincte Narration de la Navigation faite en MDXXXV. et MDXXXVI. 

par le Capitaine Jacques Cartier. (Paris, 1863 ) i 

The Principal Navigations, Voyages, etc., of the English Nation ; by Richard Hak- ' 

luyt. (1589-1600.) i 

Les Vovages k la Nouvelle France, etc. ; by Samuel de Champlain. (1632 ; Paris, 

1830.) i 

Relation du Voyage au Port Royal ; by M. Diereville. (Amsterdam, 1710.) 
Nouveaux Voyages, etc. ; by the Baron La Hontan. (1703 ; London, 1735 ) 
Relation Originale du Voyage de Jacques Cartier. (Paris, 1867.) 
Memoires, Relations, et Voyages de D6couverte au Canada. (Quebec, 1838.) 
Voyage to Canada ; by Father Charlevoix. (London, 1763 ) 
Six Mille Lieues k Touts Vapeur ; by Maurice Sand. (Paris.) 
Greater Britain ; by Sir Charles Dilke. 
The Hudson's Bay Company ; by R. M. Ballantyne. 
Imray's Sailing Directions. (London ) 

Journal of a Voyage to the Coast of Gaspo ; by L'Abbe Ferland. (Quebec.) 
The Lower St. Lawrence ; by Dr. W. J. Anderson. (Quebec, 1872.) 
Le Chercheur de Tresoi-s ; by Ph. Aubert de Gaspe fils (Quebec, 1863.) 
Chroniques Humeurs et Caprices ; by Arthur Buies. (Quebec, 1873.) 
Les Anciens Canadiens ; by Philippe Aubert de Gappe. (Quebec, 1864.) 
L' Album du Touriste ; by J. M. Le Moine. (Quebec, 1872.) 
The Blockade of Quebec ; by Dr. W. J. Anderson. (Quebec, 1872.) 
Journal of the Siege of Quebec ; by Gen. James Murray (Quebec, 1871.) 
The Expedition against Quebec ; by " A Volunteer." (Quebec, 1872 ) 
Chateau Bigot ; by J. M. Le Moine. (Quebec, 1874.) 
A Chance Acquaintauce ; by W. D. Howells. (Boston, 1873.) 
A Yankee in Canada; by Henry D. Thoreau. (Boston, 1862.) 
La Litt6rature Canadienne. (2 vols. ; Quebec, 1863-4.) 
Soirees Canadiennes. (2 vols ; Quebec, 1861.) 
Travels in New Brunswick ; by Hon. Arthur Gordon. (In Vacation Tourists for 

1862-3, London.) 
Field and Forest Rambles ; by A. Leith Adams. (London, 1873.) 
L'Acadie, or Seven Years' Explorations in British North America ; by Sir James 

E.Alexander. (2 vols. ; London, 1849.) 
Game-Fish of the North and the British Provinces ; by R. B. Roosevelt. (New 

York, 1865 ) 
Fishing in American Waters ; by Genio C. Scott. (New York.) 
The American Angler's Guide; by Norris. (New York.) 

Fish and Fishing ; by H. W. Herbert (" Frauk Forrester "). (New York, 1850.) 
The Fishing Tourist ; by Charles Hallock. (New York, 1873.) 
Les Muses de la Nouvelle France ; by ^Vlarc Lescarbot. (Paris, 1609.) 
Evangeline, a Tale of Acadie ; bv Henry \V. Lonjifellow. (Boston, 1847.) 
The Poetical Works of John G. Whittier. (Boston.) 
The St. Lawrenc(^ ;uid the 8aL';nen;iy ; by Charles Sangster (Kingston.) 
Essais Poetiqnes ; by L<:'on I'aniitli'ile Le May. (Quebec, 1865.) 
Mes Loisirs ; by Louis Houorc Frechette. (Quebec.) 
The Poetical Works of 0. Cremazie, J. Lenoir, and L. J. C. Fiset. (Quebec.) 



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eEI, EB'jrj la,;: CM] -r^'K'fr- 

^^ " ''^\2i^.:i^3Bi:^^ lift* 



HOTEL BRUNSWICK, Boston, Mass., Corner of Boyl- 
ston and Clarendon Streets, opposite Trinitv church (riiiiiips 
l:rooks s), the Massachusetts Institute of Technology, the Museum of Natural 
History, and close to the Museum of Fine Arts, the New Old South Church, etc 
and amid the best part of the beautiful Back Bay District. ' 

Also, iiuflcv the same fropvietorsJiip, 

HOTEL VICTORIA, a new and sumptuous hotel at the corner of 
Dartmouth and Newrtury Streets, kept on the European plan, and by veteran 
travelers called " the Delmonico's of Boston. •• This house is on the Back Bay 
close to Copley Square and Commonwealth Avenue. 

, H^T^v^ PONEMAH, at Milford Springs, N. H., one and a 

nalt miles by stage from Amherst Station, which is one and a quarter hours by 
express train from Boston (Boston and Lowell line). A firsc-class and ino<lerii 
summer resort, at the famous Ponemah and Milford Springs. 
These three fumous hotels are conducted by 

BARNES & DUNKLEE. 



THE 



Boston and Maine Railroad 

IS THE POPULAR ROUTE TO ALL POINTS 

NORTH, EAST, SOUTH, AND WEST, 

WITH 

Fast Trains, Through Car Service, and Luxurious 
Equipment. 



THE SEASHORE LINE 

To all points in MAINE and the MARITIME PROV- 
INCES, LEWISTON, AUGUSTA, BANGOR, 
ST. JOHN, and HALIFAX. 
The Direct Route to MONTREAL and QUEBEC and 
all Canadian Points. The only Line running Through 
Sleepers from BOSTON to ST. PAUL and MINNE- 
APOLIS. Only one change of cars to the Pacific Coast. 

THE ALL, RAIL LINE 

Via the Poughkeepsie Bridge route between 

New England and the South and West, 

BOSTON TO PHILADELPHIA, BALTIMORE, 
AND WASHINGTON 

LOVTEST RATES TO ALL POINTS. 



Full information as to Rates, Time of Trains, etc., can be 
obtained at any of the Principal Offices of the Company, 

BOSTON CITY TICKET OFFICE, 214 & 218 Washington Street. 
JAS. T. FURBER, Vice-Pres. and General Manager. 
D. J. FLANDERS, Gen. Pass, and Ticket A g't. 







^'''mmm'^'^^ 








HOTEL YENDOME. BOSTON. 
COMMONWEALTH AVENUE. 

The Vendome, 

COR. COMMONWEALTH AVE. AND DARTMOUTH ST. 

BOSTON. 

The Hotel Vendome is one of tlie largest and finest of the new hotel structures in 
this country. Its elegance, spaciousness, sanitary e.xcellence, andunequaled location 
make it most desirable for transient \dsitors and tourists. It is also peculiarly attrac- 
tive as aresidencefor ladies and families. It is situated in the Back Bay District, one 
of the grandest architectural sections to be found in any country, and surrounded by 
notesvorthy public buildings — the Art Museum, Public Library, Trinity, New Old 
South, First Baptist, and other prominent churches, and schools both public and 
private. 

Commonwealth Avenue (extending from the Public Garden to the new Park), upon 
which the Vendome has its main front, is acknowledged to be the finest boulevard in 
America. It is two hundred and forty feet wide, and througli its centre is an improved 
Park one hundred feet wide, lined with trees and shrubs, while facing it are the most 
costly and beautiful residences in the city, fit environ for this hotel, which has for its 
guests the representative society people of the Union and distinguished visitors from 
abroad. Boston contains much to interest, instruct, and amuse the stranger, and the 
suburbs are not surpassed by any in variety or extent. Many of the wealthiest citizens, 
preferring the independence and freedom of a suburban life to the narrower confines 
of the town, have erected magnificent country-seats along the adjacent hills and val- 
leys, and the drives among these tasteful exhibitions of country life are a source of 
ever-increasing delight to all who admire the beautiful. The location of the Vendome 
makes it very desirable as a summer home, and to tourists visiting the seashore or 
mountain resorts, a delightful place to rest for a few days from the fatigues of travel- 
ing. Excursions can easily be made to the neighboring seashore resorts and return 
to town the same day. Railroad tickets may be procured in the hotel, and all 
arrangements for baggage, car seats, lunches, etc., will be attended to if desired. 

, C. H. GREENLEAF & CO., Proprietors, 
C. H. Greenleaf, of Profile House. 



GO TO NOVA SCOTIA 

BY THE POPULAR 

YARMOUTH 

LINE! 

rr IS BY FAR THE MOST DESIRABLE ROUTE, 
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THE FAVORITE STEAMSHIPS OF THE LINE, 

"BOSTON" AND "YARMOUTH" 

MAKE 

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During the Vacation Season, leaving Lewis Wharf, Monday, Tuesday, 

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Tuesday, Wednesday, Friday, and Saturday evenings. 

They make close connections for 

ALL POINTS IN THE PROVINCES. 

The trip from Boston to Yarmouth takes only sixteen hours, and all the 
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NOVA SCOTIA IS NOW THE BANNER VACATION RESORT. 

Everybody goes there, and this is the best way to get there. Even the 
Round Trip in the Steamer, which consumes only forty-eight hours, and 
allows J day on shore, will add a year to a tired man's life. 

You buy a Ticket, ''We do the Rest.'' 

Full information can be had on application to 

J. F. SPINNEY, Aj-ent Pier 1, Lewis Wharf. 

— OR — 

JOHN G. HALL & CO 64 Chatham Street. 

THOS. COOK & SON 332 Washington Street. 

W. H. EAVES ** Parker Honse.'' 

KAYMOND & WHITCOMB 296 Washinfftou St. 



V/M. KNABE & CO.'S 




PIANO FACTORY, 

BALTIMORE, MD. 



GRAND, SQUARE, AND UPRIGHT 

PIANO-FORTES. 



These Instruments have been before the public for over fifty years, 
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Illustrated Catalogues and Price Lists proniptly furnished on appli- 
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WM. KNABE & GO. 

148 Fifth Avenue, New York. 
22 and 24 E. Baltimore Street, Baltimore. 
817 Market Space, Pennsylvania Ave , Washington, D. C. 



^^ PROFILE HOUSE. ^^ 

The Franconia Notch, high amid 
the mountains, enwrapped in rich 
foHage, bright with many waters, 
and abounding in singular rock- 
sculptures, possesses many points 
of attraction unequaled elsewhere 
in New England, and thousands 
of travelers visit this cool recess 
with every returning season. The 
scenery is at once fantastic and 
peaceful, and its grandeur is tem- 
pered with a grace and an arboreal 
richness rarely encountered in the 
immediate presence of the great 
and sombre mountains. There is 
alsoa pleasing aspect of finish and 
cultivation among the artiiicial ad- 
juncts of the place not often en- 
countered in our American summer 
resorts. Even the little railway 
on which we have ascended ten 
miles through the wilderness, de- 
corously hides its terminus in the 
woods, and avoids intrusion on the 
trim lawns of the Profile House 
and its cottages. The great hotel is almost a village in 
nself, and its great pillared walls rise like some old 
castle of Camelot. 1Q74 feet above the sea is this 
eyrie, and yet above it still greater cliffs rise into the luminous blue 
" sky. The supreme jewel of this treasury of Nature is the great stone 

face, the world- renowned Profile, undoubtedly the most remarkable rock formation 
in this country, if not in the world. 1200 feet below this venerated sculpture glimmers 
the bright Profile Lake, whose waters flow out to form the wild Pemigewasset, and 
through the broadening Merrimac to find the sea at Newburyport. It is but half 
a mile to Echo Lake, whose outflow seeks the Ammonoosuc and the Connecticut, 
and makes the long journey to Long Island Sound. This is even more beautiful 
than Profile Lake ; and the tremendous crags of .Mount Lafayette overhang its crys- 
tal depths with noble effect. . 

A fine Steam Yacht takes passengers to the best points from which to obtain the 
marvelous echoes which reverberate among the hills. Good row-boats on both lakes 
and excellent bass and trout fishing attract the lovers of aquatic and piscatorial sports. 
The Profile is the largest smnmer hotel in New England, and its patronage of 
the highest order. It contains every modern convenience, and all the popular amuse- 
ments are furnished. A first-class orchestra, music-room, and fine tennis grounds 
are am.ong the attractions for the young ; while shady woodland paths and well-kept 
roads invite those who desire to exhilarating walks and pleasant drives. Excursions 
on foot or by carriage may be made to Bald Mountain, Echo and Profile Lakes, Old 
Man of the Mountain, through the Franconia Notch to the Flume (which is the ob- 
ject of a pilgrimage to every White Mountain tourist), the Flume House, Pool, Basin, 
and several minor points of interest. Also by rail to Bethlehem, Maplewood, Jeffer- 
son, Mount Washington, or through the White Mountain Notch to North Conway, 
and return the sameday. Open from June 25th to October 1st of each year. 

P. O. address Profile House, N. H. Location positively exempt from Hay-fever. 
The Profile Farm and Geeenhouses supply fresh Milk and Vegetables, also rare 
Plants and Flowers in abundance. 

Our New Flume House, open from June ist to November 1st, has accommoda- 
tions for one hundred guests, and is well adapted to the wants of those who desire 
to make a long season in the mountains. TAFT &. GREENLEAF, 

C. H. Greenlbaf, of Hotel Vendonie, Boston. Proprietor.s. 




INTERNATIONAL STEAMSHIP CO.'S LINE 

OF POPULAR STEAMERS 
BOSTON, PORTLAND, EASTPORT, AND CALAIS, ME, 

AND 

ST. JOHN, N. B. 

With Connections for Campobello and St. Andrews, also for 
all Parts of MARITIME PROVINCES. 

SPRING ARRANGEMENT. 

May 2, 1802, to'Jtili/ 4, 1892. 

Steamers leave Boston at S.30 A. M., Monday, Wednesday, and Friday, fi'r 
Kastport and St. John. Leave Portland at 5.00 P. M. Mondays and Fridaysonly. 
(The Wednesday trip is to be made direct to Eastport,not caUing at Portland.) 

Returning, leave St. John at 7.25 A. M., and Eastport at 12.30 P. M., for Bos- 
ton, Mondays. Wednesdays, and P'ridays, and for Portland Mondays and Fridays 
only. (The Wednesday trip is to be made direct between Eastport and Boston, 
not calling at Portland.) 

SUMMER TIME-TABLE. 

Bailu Line (Except SutuJnt/), JnJij 4 fo Sept. r> , 18U2. 
Going East, Steamers leave as follows: 
BOSTON, Monday, 5.00 P. M. Direct to Eastport and St. John. 
Tuesday, " " " . " 

" Wednf.sday, 1. 00 p. M. By Boston and Maine R. R., connecting at 

Portland with steamer for Eastport and St. John. 
" Thursday, 5.00 P. M. Direct to Eastport and St. John. 

" Frid.\y, " " " " 

'' Saturday, 1.00 P. M. By Boston & Maine R. R., connecting at 

Portland with steamer for Eastport and St. John. 

Going West, Steamers leave as follows: 

ST. JOHN, 7.25 A. M., and Eastport at noon, Monday, Boston direct. 

" " and Easti'ORT at noon, Tuesday, to Portland, coiniect- 

ing with Boston & Maine R. R. train, due in Boston 
at ii.ro A. M. 

" " and Eastport at noon, Wednesday, Boston direct. 

" " and Eastport at noon, Thursday, P.oston direct. 

" " and Eastport at noon, Friday, to Portland, connect- 

ing with Boston & Maine R. R. train, due in Boston 
at ir.io A. M. 

'< " and Eastport at noon, Saturday, Boston direct. 

Sept. 5, 1 892, to October 31,1 892. 

Same Time-Table as May 2 to July 4, 1^02. 

October 31,1 892, to March, 1 893. 

The usual arrangement is for the steamers to leave either end of the route, call- 
ing at Pordand and Eastport in both directions, Mondays and Thursdays at the 
usual hours. For a few weeks in midwinter the service may, however^ be reduced 
to one trip per week ; Monday going East, and Thursday coming West. 

E. A. WALDRON. J- B. COYLE, 

Ge?ieral A ^efii, ^>-^« nagger, 

Commercial Wharf, Boston. Portland, Mk. 



